T’s Top 5 things to do in Acadia National Park

1. Duck Harbor Campground: The ideal campground.  Quiet and secluded, with amazing views and hikes nearby.  We were there for 3 nights, the maximum allowed.  Staying here allowed us to explore Isle au Haut and was my favorite part of our Acadia trip.
2. The Beehive Trail: My favorite hike we did.  I’ve never done one before that had me climbing iron rungs up a cliff.  It was exhilarating, and a fun feature to climb on the rocks with.  It’s not a long hike, but it’ll be an experience that we’ll remember forever.
3. Bar Harbor: One thing we love doing is trying out different restaurants while vacationing.  Bar Harbor allowed us to do that – there were tons of places to indulge the foodie in us.  And I really enjoyed going to Atlantic Brewing Company to get a tasting of their beers.
4. Duck Harbor Mountain Trail: This great hike is right next to Duck Harbor Campground.  If you take the full loop, which you should, it goes up the mountain for great views of the harbor, then down and around the coastline for great beaches and forests.  It goes through a variety of different environments, and special nooks and crannies.
5. Stonington: This town is what comes to mind when I think about small-town Maine.  Lobster boats, docks, quiet, and peaceful.  It was really fun to explore the town, and made a great basecamp for catching the mail boat to Isle au Haut.

K’s Top 5 things to do in Acadia National Park

1. Pemetic Mountain Hike: I was impressed with the views and terrain on this hike. And summer in Maine made it perfect. As a bonus, you can start your journey from Jordan Pond House.
2. Squeaker Cove: This is a small rocky beach on Isle au Haut. I loved the whole experience at IAH, but Squeaker Cove is a standout. It was so peaceful and secluded. If I think back, I can still hear the sound of the rocks getting jostled by the waves, and feel the cool ocean breeze.
3. Stonington: A quintessential Maine town. I loved seeing the boats, the dock, and the lobster traps. I loved staying in a well thought-out room that was the size of a postage stamp. If you go, grab some local seafood while enjoying a harbor view!
4. Bar Harbor Sandbar: I loved the town of Bar Harbor, with its parks, ocean views, and shops. But the coolest part was walking through town at different times of day and being able to access the island during low tide. After all, that’s what gave BH its name.
5. Unique hikes: I haven’t seen iron obstacles anywhere else (though I’m sure they exist) and it’s such a fun feature. It’s like being a kid again!

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Precipice Trail and Jordan Cliffs Trail – The “sister” hikes to the Beehive and Beech Cliff Trails that also have iron rungs.  Both were closed due to Peregrine Falcon nesting, which happens annually in the summer.
• Schoodic Woods Campground – The only campground in Acadia we didn’t visit!  We only planned for one partial day in Schoodic.  If we had more time, we would have spent a couple days there.
• Cadillac Mountain at Sunrise – We actually did go up to Cadillac Mountain, but in the early afternoon.  The views would have been nice, if it weren’t for all the people.  Because of that, we wouldn’t recommend going there unless it was for sunrise or hiking a trail to the top.
• Biking the carriage roads – We weren’t very interested in this before our visit.  Once there, we really wished we had been able to go biking.

Our Acadia Tips

• If you go to Duck Harbor Campground, stay for the maximum of 3 nights so you have enough time to explore.
• Stay in Loop A or B in Seawall Campground.
• Despite its size, Blackwoods Campground is a great place to stay if you want to see all of Acadia’s main sites on Mt. Desert Island.
• Some trails close during Peregrine Falcon nesting from March through August.  Visit at another time, if possible.
• Enjoy the unique towns that surround the park.
• Check out a Ranger Program.  We went to an interesting Stargazing Program at Sand Beach.  The rangers told tales about the stars based on Native American stories, and gave other historical background about the constellations.
• If you only have a few days and haven’t been to Acadia before, stick to Mt. Desert Island.  If you have a week, add a visit to Isle au Haut and Duck Harbor.  If you have more time, check out Schoodic Peninsula.
• If you have to skip something, skip Schoodic.  We highly recommend Mt. Desert Island and Isle au Haut.

Map of Everything We Did in Acadia

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Southwest Harbor is also the closest town to Seawall Campground. Compared to Bar Harbor, it’s much smaller. There are fewer restaurants and stores, but that didn’t dissuade us from exploring it!

Restaurants

When we first arrived at Seawall Campground, it was already late, so we decided to go out for dinner. We had heard about a Mexican restaurant called XYZ; its name comes from the different regions of Mexico (Xalapa, Yucatan, and Zacatecas). It sounded interesting, though people had mentioned online that it was overpriced. Someone had recommended another Mexican place in Ellsworth, but unfortunately that had closed and was pretty far away anyway. So we decided to give XYZ a try. 

When we arrived at XYZ, the place was pretty crowded, but we were able to squeeze into some seats at the bar. The website stated that they have a full bar, so I asked the bartender if he could mix me several different things, but he didn’t have the liquor that was required (so…not a full bar). Eventually I decided on a margarita (the bartender’s recommendation) with sugar on the rim. It was okay, but nothing special. Which was pretty disappointing, considering we were at a Mexican place, and this seemed to be the only drink the bartender was able to make.

After we ordered our entrees, they brought us salad, which consisted of a few lettuce leaves on a plate with a side of oil, lime, and some pepper. I ate it because I was hungry, but it was probably the most boring salad I’ve ever had. They also brought us the tiniest serving of bread I have ever seen.

When our entrees arrived, they looked like something that had been sitting on a counter under a heat lamp for a bit too long. My Cochinita was okay. The beans and rice were palatable, but not very flavorful. The meat was not as tender as I would have liked. And I’ve had great marinated onions at lots of places, from local hole-in-the-wall places to Cava, but these didn’t compare favorably. T’s dinner was also disappointing. He ordered Chiles Rellenos (one of his fave Mexican dishes) but said it didn’t taste good.

Overall, staff was friendly and quirky, and decor was curiously inviting, with various political posters in Spanish that caught my attention. I speak some Spanish, so I enjoyed trying to read them. Other guests seemed like they were having a good time, and the restaurant seemed to accommodate several larger parties. For us, the food was just too expensive for the quality. Our dinner bill, which included two drinks, came to $85 (excluding tip).

A couple days later, we decided to check out Sips for breakfast. It is a cozy neighborhood spot with small, high-top tables and a wine bar. The decor made the place feel very homey and comfortable. After perusing the menu and chatting with the friendly waitress, I decided on a breakfast sandwich – an everything bagel with egg, sausage, tomato, and avocado. They have a variety of toppings, so you can customize your order. I also got a side of home fries.

My food came, and the sandwich was beautiful. I know that’s a weird thing to say about a breakfast sandwich, but see the picture below. The home fries were about average. T got french toast which looked amazing. Overall, the food was simple, but high quality and thoughtfully prepared. This meal came to about $14 total (excluding tip). Totally worth it. Next time, we’ll skip XYZ and come here.

Shops

After breakfast we took a stroll through Southwest Harbor. After perusing some clothing and trinket shops, we ended up at Sawyer’s Market. Their selection of chocolate included many different flavors and brands from a variety of countries. Naturally, we each bought one, even though they were pricey.

T also picked up a bottle of Coal Porter beer from Atlantic Brewing Company at Sawyer’s. He had tried it during our tasting at Mainely Meat, and wanted to bring one home. Though some items were expensive, this shop had a great selection of novelty items as well as groceries and baked goods. Plus, it’s right on Main Street.

Though we spent only a short time in Southwest Harbor, it seemed to be a quaint Maine town with a low-key vibe. We saw some beautiful views, got some great food, took a relaxing stroll along Main Street, and even satisfied some snack and drink cravings. 

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Southwest Harbor | Google Maps
XYZ Restaurant | 80 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Sips | 4 Clark Point Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Sawyer’s Market | 344 Main St, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679

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Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse

The lighthouse is iconic.  It’s featured prominently on art and souvenirs from Acadia, so we had to check it out.  The lighthouse is an easy 5-minute drive from Seawall.  The parking lot is small, so be prepared to wait during the summer.  But it doesn’t take long to view the lighthouse, so visitors will come and go pretty fast.  We got lucky, and found a parking spot right away.

Built in 1858, the lighthouse marks the entrance to Bass Harbor.  It’s the only lighthouse on Mt. Desert Island, and in 1988, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places.  Today, the lighthouse is a private residence for the commander of the local Coast Guard unit, according to the Acadia NP website.  So naturally, visitors can’t go inside.  I would imagine the residents would get tired of visitors coming at all hours of the day, so be respectful, as always!

Once parked, we noticed two paths on either side of the lighthouse.  First, we went down the path to the right, which led directly to the lighthouse, and gave us great views of the ocean and surrounding area.  We got a few nice closeup photos of the lighthouse.

We headed back the parking lot, and went to the left of the lighthouse.  This path is the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse Trail, which first leads into the forest.  We then descended a steep wooden staircase to the rocky coastline.  From there, we scrambled around to get photos of the lighthouse, ocean, and cliffs all in one shot.  There were a lot of people doing the same thing, so be patient!  We think we got some pretty good photos, not to mention memories!  This spot was where we attempted to recreate those scenic lighthouse photos that had inspired us.

Beech Cliff Trail

After getting our iconic photo of Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse, we drove to the Beech Cliff trail.  The trailhead is located next to Echo Lake, a popular swimming spot.  The lake boasts the only other sandy beach in the park aside from the appropriately named Sand Beach.  We easily found a parking spot, and started on the trail.

Initially, Beech Cliff is pretty easy going, but the trail quickly start gaining elevation.  We noticed signs and tools around that indicated that the trail was currently being maintained.  On trips, we often wonder how long has each trail been around, and hypothesize (and later, research) about the history of the trails we’re hiking on.  A Google search generally doesn’t bring up a lot of historical information, unless it’s a big name trail.  How long has the Beech Cliff Trail been in Acadia?  Who built it?  For the moment, it’s nice to know that it’s being taken care of, and not to take it for granted.  When we got home, a quick Google search did turn up that the Beech Cliff trail was built by the CCC in the 1930’s.

Before too long, our hike led us to a nice viewpoint of Echo Lake beach.  K suggested visiting the beach after our hike.  We took a short break, snapped some pictures, grabbed an energy bar, and continued on.  Soon, we came to our first iron ladder.  K went up first, and let out a yelp!  Worried, I ask if she was okay.  Laughing, she explained that a red squirrel, which had been sitting at the top of the ladder, had jumped and scared her.  Not quite what I was expecting!

We went up a few more ladders and stone steps until we reached the end of the trail.  It is a unique trail, particularly because of the iron features.  At the top, we opted to do the 0.4 mile Beech Cliff Loop Trail, which offered impressive views of Echo Lake and the surrounding area.  We also ran into some workers doing trail maintenance, and we made sure to thank them.  A lot of time and effort goes into maintaining the trails we use.

Canada Cliff Trail

We don’t recommend taking Beech Cliff trail back down, since you could run into people climbing up the ladders. Instead, we made a loop with the Canada Cliff Trail.  I wish I knew why the trail was named that.  Regardless, we made our way down the mountain, hiking over roots and rocks.  Along the way, we ran into a couple looking for a fire tower.  Not having seen a fire tower in the area, we took out our maps.

Turns out there was a fire tower, but it was at the summit of Beech Mountain – which was the opposite direction from where the couple was headed.  They turned around and headed back up the trail – both Beech Mountain Trail and Beach Mountain Valley Trail lead there.  Hopefully next time we’ll get to see the tower, which was also built by the CCC.  Acadia has so much to discover, even if you’ve already done a lot of research.

Soon we were back at the parking lot.  But before we left, we wanted to check out Echo Lake!  It’s hard for us to relax sometimes, since there’s so much we want to do when we’re on vacation.  Echo Lake provided an opportunity to relax, enjoy the view, and discuss our dinner plans.  We chatted about either going back to Bar Harbor, or checking out Southwest Harbor.  A girl nearby overheard us and chimed in that Southwest Harbor didn’t offer too much in the way of restaurants.  We took her suggestion and went to Bar Harbor, for the last time on our trip, and ate at Finback Alehouse.  We would still go to Southwest Harbor, but it would be for breakfast the next day instead!

This was a nice hike, highlighted by the views and ladders.  We wished the trail was a bit longer, but it was okay since we were pretty tired that day.  Plus, that gave us some time to hang out on the beach and grab some great food and drink in Bar Harbor.

Beech Cliff Trail
Distance: 2.2 miles / 3.7 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Loop
Elevation Gain: 720 feet / 220 meters
Difficulty: Moderate, mainly for the metal ladders, easy otherwise
Crowds: We didn’t see anyone else on the ladders, but ran into a couple groups at the top and on the Canada Cliff Trail
Water: A couple of easy stream crossings near the end of the Canada Cliff Trail
Directions to Parking at Echo Lake Beach: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the Echo Lake Parking lot, head north to the trailhead.  You should see a building/house on your right.  Start ascending the trail through switchbacks, and eventually ladders.
• Mile 0.4 – You’ve climbed all the ladders (sad) and are at the top of Beech Cliff.  Turn right to go onto the Beech Cliff Loop Trail.  At a fork in the road, you can choose to go counterclockwise or clockwise on the loop – both are good options.
• Mile 0.9 – You’ve completed the loop; head straight onto Canada Cliff Trail, which will descend the mountain
• Mile 1.5 – The trail intersects with the Valley Trail, but bear left to continue on the Canada Cliff Trail
• Mile 2.1 – The trail will end on the road.  Take a short walk back to the Echo Lake Beach Parking Lot
• Mile 2.2 – Back at the parking lot.  Check out the lake if you haven’t already!

Highlights: Iron ladders, views, Echo Lake Beach

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse | Bass Harbor, ME 04653 | Open daily, 9am – sunset
Echo Lake Beach | 44.3149522, -68.3366646

Maps:
Beech Cliff Trail Map (KTNPBlog)

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Soon we were back in Stonington.  And hungry.  We got a recommendation from the mail boat captain to visit a nearby restaurant called Whale’s Rib Tavern. After driving about 15 minutes, we discovered that they didn’t open until 5 pm.  So we headed back to Stonington.  There aren’t a ton of options, so we thought we’d revisit Fisherman’s Friend.  Which was also closed.  So we ended up at Harbor Cafe, on Main Street in Stonington.  We didn’t expect much, but it was just what we needed.  It was cozy and simply decorated with a partial view of the harbor.  For more details, check out our Stonington post.  After lunch, we started the hour and a half drive back to MDI.  And our next stop:  Seawall Campground.

Seawall Campground would be our lodging for the next two nights.  It’s located on the western half of MDI, which is slower paced, and there are fewer hikes and attractions.  But there’s still plenty to see and do.  As we drove along, we passed through Southwest Harbor on MDI, and then a residential area with firewood for sale, until we met the magnificent Maine coast again.  And then we arrived at the campground.  Like Blackwoods, this is a big campground with over 200 sites.

Unlike Blackwoods, we could reserve a specific site.  Ours was D-015, which had a short hike in.  We parked our car, grabbed our gear, and then headed to the site to set up our tent.  It was a bit of a maze to find our site, with paths going in every direction.  When researching Seawall, we had read that the sites there had more room and were more private than those of Blackwoods, so we were excited to have more peace and quiet.  And we felt it fit with the relaxed atmosphere of MDI’s western side.

After turning around a few times, we found our site.  We were again disappointed because our campsite didn’t have the privacy we were searching for.  Compared to Blackwoods, we were even closer to our neighbors.  We had made a mistake, one that clouded our view of Seawall a bit.

What had happened?  There are four loops in Seawall: A, B, C, and D.  Later on in our journey, we drove through the other loops to compare, and realized that if you want that private campsite, you want loops A or B.  Avoid C and D, unless you’re okay not having much privacy.

During our research of Seawall, we had seen something about the A and B loops being the best.  We had tried to reserve one there, but they booked up fast, so make sure you get your reservations early for those loops.  We thought C and D wouldn’t be too bad, and they’re not, but at that point in our trip we almost wished we had just booked a hotel.  At least it was relatively quiet, despite being crowded.

After setting up our tent, we went to take showers (we were overdue after spending 3 nights at Duck Harbor).  Thankfully, we knew just where to go, since we had passed the Seawall Camp Store on the drive in.  We were happy to arrive before closing…and to see the sign out front that read “Hot Showers.”

There are two shower rooms, separated by gender.  While there’s no toilet in the shower room, there is a port-o-potty out front.  Additionally there was a sink and a bench/sill area where you can put your things while getting ready.  Each room had 3 shower stalls, with a “dry” area that you go into first and lock, so you can keep your things dry and secure.  Be careful, it could be slippery since there was some water in that area.  Also, we had brought flip flops and towels, which we would recommend.  We’re not sure whether they had towels available at the camp store, but we figured we’d prefer to use our own regardless.

And I did have a gloriously hot shower… except that I had to stick three quarters in a machine every two minutes to extend my shower time.  And no, you can’t insert more money ahead of time.  Finally clean, we browsed the camp store, and bought oatmeal packets for breakfast the next day.  It was late, so we grabbed some dinner in Southwest Harbor before heading back to our campsite for the night.

Overall, we liked Seawall Campground, and would come back – if we got loop A or B.  Like Blackwoods, it’s a good home base to explore the surrounding area.

Seawall Campground | 212 Campsites | 5 Group Sites
Location: Mt. Desert Island, 4 miles south of Southwest Harbor (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire ring | Picnic Table | Flushable Toilet
Dates Open: Late May to the end of September
Prices: $22/night walk-in tent sites | $30/night drive-up tent, camper, and motor home sites | $60 group tent sites
Highlights: Close to attractions on MDI’s west side, clean and quiet
Notes:  Check-out: 10am | Advance reservations recommended | Get loop A or B, avoid C and D

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Seawall Camping Supplies | 536 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679

Maps:
Seawall Campground Map

Links:
NPS Website – Acadia Camping
Recreation.gov – Seawall Reservations

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Since we didn’t have kayaks or know the area, we chose to do a guided trip through National Park Sea Kayak Tours. They got great reviews, and had been friendly when we called with a few questions.  We scheduled our trip about a week in advance, and were able to get the last 2 spots for an 8 a.m. trip on Saturday morning.  They have two locations, one in downtown Bar Harbor and one in the Seawall area.

We got to the Bar Harbor location, loaded our gear, and we all crammed into a van to be shuttled to the west side of Mount Desert Island. It was about a 25 minute journey, not too long, but long enough when you feel like you’re in a sardine can. Our journey started at Barlett’s Landing (see map below), where K and I got our tandem kayak. Our group consisted mostly of very energetic retirees, which was kind of refreshing. When we get older, I hope that we’re still able to do that kind of thing.  They didn’t have any problem keeping up with the guide. And we tried our best to keep up with them!

Once we were on the water, our guide pointed out some harbor seals that were on a rocky outcropping.  They were a good distance away, but they were easy to spot.  We passed the rocks, and headed north, past Bartlett’s Island on the left.  We kept paddling, entranced by the great views.  The weather was perfect too – almost no wind, but 70s and sunny.  We dressed in layers, since our trip started first thing in the morning.

Our next destination was Black Island, which we passed on our left.  We saw bald eagles flying around the island.  The guide pointed out that they were bringing food to the eaglets in their nest.  Our entire party stopped to observe them for a few minutes.  Shortly after, we saw more harbor seals on another nearby rock outcropping.  As we continued, we kept our distance so as not to disturb the seals.

Every trip with the outfitter has a stop in the middle, where we put the kayaks in and you can take a bathroom break (which is much appreciated, and one reason we chose this outfitter).  Our next stop was at Indian Point, where our break was going to be.  On the way, we saw some more harbor seals on rocky outcroppings.  Occasionally as we paddled, we saw harbor seals pop their heads out of the water.  As we approached, they disappeared.

One harbor seal was a bit more curious.  It started swimming directly beside and underneath our kayak!  We stopped paddling, and for about 5-10 minutes just watched as the seal swam all around us.  He swam away, only to resurface in a different spot after a few moments.  It seemed like he was playing a game with us.  When I finally grabbed my phone to take a picture… he swam off.  But it was a real treat to see the harbor seal up close, and our guide said it was rare.  It’s a great memory and made our day (especially since the seal was around our kayak, not really anyone else’s).

Eventually, we had to proceed to Indian Point for our short break.  It was a rocky, seaweed strewn beach.  Several people went further back to use the “bathroom” (i.e. rocks), but the guide suggested that people not go into the tree area because it could damage the ecosystem.  So we looked awkwardly out at the ocean to give others their privacy.  Afterward, we had a short paddle to our takeout point at Clark Cove.

This kayaking trip exceeded both our expectations.  It wasn’t exhausting, we saw a ton of wildlife, and the weather was nice too.  Altogether, we had paddled 6.5 miles.  We got back in the van, and traveled back to Bar Harbor. Predictably, we were starving, so we headed to Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast for brunch.

Places:
National Park Sea Kayak Tours | 39 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609
Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast | 15 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609
Bartlett’s Landing | 44.343060, -68.416346
Black Island | 44.382032, -68.400618
Indian Point | 44.392641, -68.373172
Clark Cove | 44.403502, -68.351433

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Jordan Pond Path

Our drive from Blackwoods Campground to the Jordan Pond Path trailhead took about 10 minutes. We arrived around 9:30 a.m., and parked in the Jordan Pond House parking lot. Parking wasn’t a problem, since JPH doesn’t open for brunch until 11 a.m. (later in the day, the lots do fill up though). We started our hike along the east side of the lake on the Jordan Pond Nature Trail, which becomes Jordan Pond Path. This part of the hike was easy, and there were a number of other visitors. We stopped a few times to snap some scenic photos – the twin mountains known as The Bubbles, the clear waters of Jordan Pond lined with rocks, as well as sundews, a tiny, red, carnivorous plant (T’s dad is a botanist who specializes in carnivorous plants, which has led to many educational treasure hunts).

We crossed a wooden bridge, then turned right at the fork toward the Pemetic trailhead. This leg of the hike was easy and cool under the tree canopy as we left the crowds behind. We hiked up a short incline for about 0.4 miles, and eventually reached a small parking lot off Park Loop Road. When we crossed the road, the fun started.

Pemetic Mountain Ascent

We began to ascend over a huge field of boulders. I hadn’t done much rock scrambling in my hiking past, but this was where I began to really enjoy it. After bouldering our way up for a bit, we ran into some fellow hikers. They mentioned that the trail splits briefly, and they recommended the ravine path (on the left) rather than the ledge path (on the right). After finding a confusing sign, we understood what they meant. Following their advice, we kept left for the ravine, and were glad that we did. The ravine had tons of boulders and tree roots, as well as two wooden ladders, which was an interesting change of pace. If you’d rather ascend up a giant boulder, take the ledge. Choose your own adventure!

After we passed the ravine, there were fewer boulders, and more hiking/scrambling up a solid rock surface. Parts of it almost looked like lava flows due to the smooth and continuous nature of the rock. The weather on this particular day was sunny and warm, but breezy. The variation in terrain also made this hike really enjoyable.

As we continued to hike, we passed several wayfinding cairns, also called Bates Cairns, which I’ve never seen anywhere else. The cairns consist of a long flat rock, supported by two rock “legs” below, and a small rock on top that points out the trail direction. As we continued toward the summit, short trees began to appear, and so did the lakes below. By the time we reached the summit, we had just short of a 360 degree view of lakes, the ocean, rocks, trees, and islands. This was the perfect spot to grab lunch and enjoy the gorgeous scenery and weather.

Pemetic Mountain Descent

The descent was peaceful and scenic. We walked over an exposed rock face that stretched out across the mountain, and we could see the ocean and greenery all around us. I could feel the warmth of the sun emanating from the rock, as well as the cool breeze – a great combination. As we descended further, the trail became more shaded. On the way down, we ran into a couple volunteers from Friends of Acadia. They were doing trail maintenance, including checking the orientation of the cairns. Remember not to move or attempt to “fix” the cairns (or construct new ones), as hikers rely on them for wayfinding – we would have gotten lost a couple times without them.

Eventually we returned to the trailhead and crossed Park Loop Road to arrive back at Jordan Pond House. My thoughts: Sublime. My favorite hike. The variation in terrain, breathtaking views, and rocky terrain made this hike a lot of fun. Will definitely revisit.

Pemetic Mountain North-West Trail
Distance: 4.2 Miles
Elevation Gain: 1133 Feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Parking: Park at Jordan Pond House North parking lot (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Walk toward Jordan Pond. Turn right onto Jordan Pond Nature Trail (0.2 mi), then turn left onto Jordan Pond Path (0.9 mi). Turn right onto Jordan Pond Carry (0.4 mi). There are 2 trailheads here; keep right. Turn right onto Bubbles Divide (after about 0.1 mi, you will pass a parking lot and cross Park Loop Road). Follow trailhead for Pemetic Northwest Trail (approx. 0.6 mi) until you reach the summit. Stop and enjoy the amazing views! Follow signs for Pemetic South Ridge Trail (1.2 mi). Turn right onto the Bubble Trail (0.5 mi). Cross Park Loop Road and continue straight toward Jordan Pond Nature Trail. Continue straight onto Jordan Pond Nature Trail (0.2 mi).
Highlights: Rock scrambling, ladders, views, lake…everything
Notes: You can skip the Jordan Pond section by parking in a small lot off Park Loop Road, close to the Pemetic NW trailhead, and doing an out-and-back hike (be cautious if descending over the rock scramble portion).

Places:
Hike Trailhead at Jordan Pond Path | 44.322931, -68.253719
Pemetic NW Trailhead | 44.341081, -68.250316
Blackwoods Campground | 155 Blackwoods Drive, Otter Creek, ME 04660
Jordan Pond House | 2928 Park Loop Rd, Seal Harbor, ME 04675

References:
KTNP Pemetic Mountain Northwest Trail Map

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Ocean Path

After navigating Acadia’s partially one-way Park Loop Road, we parked our car near Otter Cliff Overlook, a peninsula on MDI. We were careful not to drive too far and miss the last parking point, so we parked at the first lot we came to, on the southernmost part of the peninsula (there are 2 lots – Otter Cliff and Otter Point). Acadia can be crowded, and parking lots fill up. We got a late start for the hike, having done Jordan Pond House and Waterfall Bridge earlier in the day. So we missed a small portion of the Ocean Path trail, but at least we found parking.

We crossed Park Loop Road and started our Ocean Path hike (more of a walk, really). Immediately we were met with gorgeous rocky coastline views. Apparently lots of people like rocky beaches, because the trail was packed with tourists. As you hike north on a gravel path, there are many scenic overlooks, including a rocky beach with bowling ball sized boulders and vertical cliffs. There were many photo ops, so we stopped often. We spotted the only ocean-side sandy beach, aptly named Sand Beach, from several points along Ocean Path.

After about 1.2 miles, we reached Thunder Hole, a popular spot where you can hear the “thunder” of waves hitting the rocks through an underground cave. A gate kept visitors from going past the safe point due to current weather/sea conditions. The view was nice and the “thunder” was an interesting experience, but really wasn’t as great as we hoped. Perhaps it’s more spectacular at high tide.

Though we were tempted to stop at every overlook, we had to keep these stops short so we could finish our hike before nightfall (particularly given the potentially dangerous terrain of The Beehive). Eventually, we reached the end of Ocean Path at Sand Beach. If we had more time, we would have gone for a walk in the sand (a few days later, we went to Sand Beach for a family-oriented Stargazing Ranger Program that was focused on storytelling). We crossed Park Loop road to continue onto the Beehive.

Beehive Trail

The Beehive is an iconic hike with major view payoff, but the catch is that much of it is vertical, taking you up the rock face via iron rungs. The difficulty of the hike, combined with our later start time, meant the hike wasn’t too crowded.

The Beehive starts with some bouldering and otherwise moderate hiking, before you reach the first iron feature, a small bridge. The picture doesn’t do it justice. It doesn’t give you any sense of what you might feel when you cross it (or what went through my mind as I surveyed the rocks below and imagined myself crossing it). There is no handrail, and I couldn’t turn to the side because I was wearing a daypack. Carefully, I crossed to the other side and took a sigh of relief. This is the part where you commit to this hike (or not). After T crossed behind me, he commented that the bridge felt “slippery,” which is sort of terrifying to hear when you’ve been married for a month.

As we continued up the vertical ascent, the woman behind us and I joked about falling to our deaths. T was rolling his eyes and just enjoying himself, but there were definitely parts of the hike that felt scary. I guess I have to get used to it, since our goal is to explore all 59 national parks. And when you get to each viewpoint, it’s totally worth it. For example, there are gorgeous views of Sand Beach from The Beehive as well.

As we followed the cairns, we ascended more rock stairs and iron rungs. Finally, we reached the summit, where we were able to walk on relatively flat rocky ground (!). The view was beautiful, as we could see Champlain Mountain fading into the distance and rain sweeping over the ocean. We ate a snack, got some fellow hikers to snap a photo, and began the descent. The Beehive continues down to The Bowl (a small lake to the west), but we decided to skip that part since it was getting late. We turned left to go down a small connector trail. This part was much easier, and led us down the rocks and back to Ocean Path.

Thoughts: The vertical part of this hike was intimidating at first, but I’m so glad I did this hike! Just stay on the trail, remember to breathe, and you’ll be fine. And don’t look down too much. Trails in Acadia have some unique features, along with amazing views you won’t want to miss. Two other trails in Acadia have iron rungs: Precipice and Jordan Cliffs. Next time, we’d love to do the Precipice Trail – it’s similar to the Beehive’s terrain, but is longer and more strenuous. From March through August, the Precipice and Jordan Cliffs Trails are typically closed for Peregrine Falcon nesting. We went in 2016, and both trails were closed beginning March 15, and reopened on July 29. Make sure to check alerts before you go.

Ocean Path & Beehive Trails | 5.9 Miles Round-Trip, Out and Back
Elevation Gain: 528 feet
Difficulty: Easy (Ocean Path) & Difficult (Beehive)
Trailhead Parking: Park near Otter Point (Google Maps Directions). There is another parking lot at Otter Cliff (Google Maps Directions), if the Otter Point lot is full.  If you’re just doing the Beehive, park at Sand Beach (Google Maps Directions), or there are a few spots along the road beside the Beehive Trailhead.  If you’re just doing Ocean Path, you can hike from either direction – park at Otter Point/Otter Cliff or at Sand Beach.
Trail Directions: Park at Otter Point or Otter Cliff. Cross Park Loop Road and turn left onto Ocean Path. Go 1.2 miles to Thunder Hole. Continue another 2.0 miles to Sand Beach. At this point, the main Ocean Path ends and you can begin the Beehive. Cross Park Loop Road, and continue until you reach the Beehive trailhead on your left. Continue 0.2 miles until you reach a fork. Keep right to continue on the Beehive (the straight/left path is the Bowl Trail, which you’ll return on). You’ll climb iron rungs until you reach the summit, about 0.2 miles. After taking in the views at the top, continue straight toward The Bowl. The trail will skirt the lake, then you’ll come to an intersection with the Champlain South Ridge Trail. Turn left onto the Bowl Trail and keep on the trail for 0.5 miles, at which point you’ll reach the intersection with the Beehive Trail. Continue straight to return the way you came for 0.2 mi. back to the trailhead. Return on Ocean Path.
Highlights: Views, rocky shorelines, beaches, iron features on Beehive
Notes: You could do each trail individually. Ocean Path is 4.4 miles out-and-back, and Beehive is a 1.5 mile “lollipop.”

Places:
Southern Ocean Path Trailhead and Otter Point Parking | 44.307695, -68.192267
Northern Ocean Path Trailhead and Sand Beach Parking | 44.329748, -68.183764
Beehive Trailhead | 44.331543, -68.185257
Otter Cliff Parking | 44.310749, -68.189804
Thunder Hole | 44.320730, -68.188380
Sand Beach | 44.329199, -68.182038

References & Maps:
KTNP Trail Map of Ocean Path & Beehive

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Carriage roads and hiking trails weave together to provide a variety of routes to explore the rivers and bridges on the East side of the park (Schoodic also has a newly-built network of “carriage roads”). Due to time constraints, we chose to visit just two of the bridges.

Cobblestone Bridge

First, we visited Cobblestone Bridge. It was the first bridge, completed in 1917, and is the only one built from individual cobblestones. We parked near Jordan Pond House, a restaurant in the park that’s famous for serving tea and popovers. Our plan was to get lunch there after our hike. There are a number of trails leading into the woods from JPH, and we weren’t sure which to take at first. After studying our map, we crossed our fingers and chose one (fortunately, it was the correct one). We quickly found ourselves on the Jordan Stream Path, which follows the river as well as the carriage road to the bridge. It would be about 0.7 miles to the bridge, for a total of 1.4 miles out and back.

There are many photo opportunities along the way. We took a number of selfies (hey, we were on our honeymoon), particularly once the bridge was in view. The stream was next to our dirt and stone path (photo). We also spotted several “mini-waterfalls” as I called them, where stream water rushed through the rocks.

There was a fair amount of wildlife along this trail. First, we saw a red squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) scamper among the trees and logs. We saw these small squirrels everywhere in Acadia, and heard them chattering, which seemed to startle some visitors. They’re much cuter than the grey squirrels we see in DC. Next, we saw a bullfrog (Rana catesbeina) sunbathing in a puddle. T stopped to photograph it for quite some time, and ended up getting a pretty good shot. I also spotted a snake; after looking it up online we believe it was a juvenile garter snake (Thamnophis sirtalis). Apparently, there are no poisonous snakes in Maine, which is comforting. The sound of birds chirping was also a welcome addition to our short hike.

After hiking near the stream over rocks, dirt paths, and boardwalks, we caught our first glimpse of the Cobblestone Bridge. We went “off-trail” and went from rock to rock over the stream as we approached the bridge, which provided a better view. As we got closer, we began to see the individual cobblestones and their colors. It was really neat to spot the bridge from further away, and see the details come into focus. We stopped under the bridge to explore, and attempt to take some artsy photos that show off Cobblestone Bridge’s texture and color variation. There are many photos online showing the bridge with enhanced colors, but these don’t compare to seeing it in person. The detail and craftsmanship of the bridge are impressive, but you have to stop and look closely to really appreciate it.

After taking the trail out to Cobblestone Bridge, we followed the carriage road back to Jordan Pond House for a change of pace. The road itself wasn’t super exciting to walk on, but it was faster and we didn’t have to retrace our steps. Plus, the road system has an interesting history. In retrospect, it would have been fun to bike the carriage roads. Something to remember for next time!

Jordan Pond House

After our hike, it was time for lunch at Jordan Pond House. This restaurant has been serving popovers and tea since the 1890s, so it’s something special. The original building burned down in 1979, and the current building was built in 1982.

The place was crowded, but there was no wait for our party of 2. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during the summer or if you have a larger party. We sat at a table on the patio with a view of the lawn, the Bubbles, and Jordan Pond. We were in the shade, which was cool and relaxing, though lawn seats would’ve given us a better view.

T ordered a popover with butter and strawberry jam, and a blueberry soda. I’m allergic to milk products, sadly, or I would have ordered a popover as well. It looked rather crispy and inviting. T says the popover was iconic and tasty.

I ordered the BLTT (a BLT with turkey) and T ordered a Grilled Chicken Caprese. The food was okay, but not anything too special. The turkey on the BLTT was a little dry, so at this point I commandeered T’s leftover strawberry jam to put on my sandwich. Go ahead, try it. The strawberry jam, which I believe is homemade, is amaaaaazing. It was so good and improved the sandwich so much that I asked the waitress to bring me another pot of it. I didn’t even care that she probably thought I was crazy.

Our visit wouldn’t have been complete without visiting this Acadia icon. No matter where you sit, it’s good for people-watching and enjoying the gorgeous Maine weather (which during our visit was sunny and warm with low humidity). After lunch, we wandered down a short path to enjoy the view of Jordan Pond and the twin mountains known as the Bubbles. It was gorgeous; we wish we had more time to relax on the lawn and take in the views.

Waterfall Bridge

The following day, after our hike up Pemetic Mountain, we had some extra time. We decided to check out another bridge on the carriage road system. We had looked at photos of all 17 bridges before traveling to Acadia. I knew I wanted to see Cobblestone Bridge, but decided at the last minute that I also wanted to check out Waterfall Bridge because of a gorgeous photo I saw on Joe’s Guide to Acadia.

There are several ways to get to the bridge. We took the Hadlock Brook Trail, which is an easy 1.8 mile out-and-back hike. The carriage also goes there, but that appeared to be a longer (and less exciting) route. The trail wasn’t anything special either, but it was a peaceful hike through the forest. Before long, we were at the bridge.

Waterfall Bridge has a beautiful, austere design. It is meant to frame the adjacent waterfall, but the view was a bit underwhelming due to the timing of our visit. We had to search for the waterfall on the rock face; it was barely a trickle. As we neared the bridge we walked from boulder to boulder, which I really enjoyed. We walked under the bridge and up close to the waterfall. This would have been a great view on a spring day when the water was flowing heavily. If you can, I recommend visiting in the spring or otherwise when there has been a lot of rain. Also, Hemlock Bridge is nearby. We didn’t visit, but it’s so close I wish we had.

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Prior to our trip, we made a 2-night reservation at Blackwoods. You can’t specify which campsite you want though, you’re assigned one when you arrive. According to the map, the campground’s two loops, A and B, have very similar layouts. It costs $30 per night, from May through October. If you’re camping off-season, the campsites are cheaper and facilities are limited. Check out the NPS website for more info.  Advanced reservations are highly recommended during peak season, as the campgrounds are often full.

When we arrived at the campground, we checked in with the ranger on-site and got our campsite assignment. Site A137 would be our home for the next 2 days. We were hoping for some privacy, but weren’t really expecting it.

On the journey to our campsite, we passed a multitude of other campsites. Blackwoods is the most crowded campground in the park, and it’s huge with 290 sites. Makes sense, since it’s on the popular east side of MDI. It’s also a great starting point for a variety of hikes and other attractions. The campground was relatively clean and quiet. Our site was simple, with a picnic table and fire ring. Our neighbors were close, but not as close as we feared they might be.

A few sites down from us was the bathroom and potable water source. One odd thing was that the campground bathrooms were equipped with hand sanitizer instead of hand soap. Sanitizer is fine if you don’t have running water, but with it, sanitizer is kind of useless. Campgrounds in our home park, Shenandoah, have soap. Everywhere should have soap! Anyway, moving on…

After setting up our tent and checking our gear, we were ready to head out for a hike. But first we stopped at Otter Creek Market about 0.6 miles away, the closest camp store to get ice and snacks. Shower and laundry facilities are located north on Route 3, though we didn’t end up using them.

All in all, Blackwoods is a nice place to stay for a couple nights. And the location is so great that we were willing to sacrifice a bit of privacy for convenience. One additional benefit is that there are trails that connect to or go through the campground. Specifically the Quarry Trail on the east side, and the Cadillac Ridge on the west side of the campground. So you can just wake up and go without driving to a trailhead.

We thought we’d dislike Blackwoods because it’s so large, but we rather liked it. Mainly because of its proximity to hikes and attractions. I would definitely stay at Blackwoods again, and even though we were close to our neighbors, we were still farther away than we were at Seawall (see our post about that).

Blackwoods Campground | 290 campsites
Location: Mt. Desert Island, 5 miles south of Bar Harbor (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire ring | Picnic Table | Flushable Toilet
Dates Open: May 15 to October 15
Prices: $30 / night (May – October) | $15 / night (April & November) | Free (December – March)
Highlights: Campground right in the middle of a lot of hikes and things to see/do in Acadia
Notes:  Check-out: 10am | Advance reservations recommended

References:
NPS Website – Acadia Camping
Recreation.gov – Blackwoods Reservations
Blackwoods Campground Map

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Bar Island Trail

Bar Island, north of Bar Harbor, is part of Acadia National Park. If you find Bridge Street in downtown Bar Harbor, then head north, you’ll make your way to the edge of the ocean and see the island about a third of a mile away. And if you come when it’s low tide… you can walk across to the island!

I used a tidepools app on my phone to tell when we could cross the sandbar, and there are charts posted in Bar Harbor and online.  Luckily, it was low tide when we got to Bar Harbor, and after a quick calculation, we determined that we had enough time to walk to the island, and return before the tide came in. We were anxious to explore Bar Harbor, but the short hike on Bar Island came first.

The trail starts at the end of Bridge Street, and crosses the sandbar. We wandered around the bar, leisurely crossing while snapping photos and examining everything. Seaweed was everywhere, and we found little crabs and other critters in the tide pools. See what you can find as you explore! Some people drive over the bar, so watch out for cars. I recommend walking, it’s part of the experience.

After walking across the bar, we got to the beach on Bar Island. There’s a trail that continues onto the island and goes up a gradual incline. Along the trail we saw some gorgeous purple lupine that was begging to be photographed. Eventually, we reached a fork in the path. We didn’t explore the area to the right, but it goes to the site of the former home of Journalist Jack Perkins who sold the property (and about half of the island) to the NPS in 2003.  We turned left to continue to the summit. At the top was a rock cairn (which K climbed), and a great view of Bar Harbor. That’s pretty much the end of the trail, so we headed back the way we came. As we crossed the sandbar, we noticed that the water had receded even further.

We definitely recommend this trail; it’s a great introduction to the park. And it’s an easy trail, good for families with young kids, who would probably love exploring the tide pools as much as we did. Later in our trip, we went back during high tide, and looked across the water to the island. It was great to reminisce about going across, and seeing the difference when the tide was high.

Bar Island | 1.7 miles out and back | Easy
Elevation Change: 165 feet
Parking: The trail is accessed from the northern end of Bridge Street. Plenty of parking, e.g. along West Street (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Ensure that it’s low tide, then continue from Bridge Street onto the sandbar.  Continue about 0.3 miles along the bar until you reach Bar Island.  Once there, you’ll see a trail that continues inland.  This trail will go for about 0.3 miles, and then you’ll come to a fork in the path.  Take the left fork for 0.2 miles to the summit for good views of Bar Harbor.  Go back the way you came to return to Bar Harbor.
Highlights: Walking along tidepools, views from island, good for kids (easy hike, wildlife habitat)
Notes: Only accessible 1.5 hours before and after low tide, so plan ahead and make sure you give yourself enough time to explore and get back safely.

References:
Bar Island Wikipedia
Bar Island Trail Map PDF
Tide Chart of Bar Harbor

Bar Harbor

We really enjoyed Bar Harbor. It’s totally laid back, and has a ton of restaurants and shops. And of course, it has beautiful views since it’s located right on the water. There’s so much to write about Bar Harbor, but we’ll focus primarily on the restaurants we visited. Make sure you explore, grab some good food and drinks, and just relax after hitting the trail for the day. If you’re in need of any outdoor gear, make sure to stop by Cadillac Mountain Sports too – we stopped here several times to restock on a energy bars, canister fuel, etc. while in the area.

K also found a few shops she liked – she tried on some dresses at It’s a ME Thing and Patrick’s By the Sea, and Fair Trade Winds had soaps, trinkets, and other gift items that she enjoyed checking out.

Lodging

Quality Inn, Bar Harbor
40 Kebo St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We also want to mention the first hotel we stayed in. We stayed in a room with two queen beds, in a “cabin” of sorts rather than the main building. It was simple, affordable, and cozy, with friendly service. And one of the best hotel breakfasts we’ve had, with many options, including fresh seasonal Maine blueberries. It was very quiet, but just a short walk away from downtown Bar Harbor. We highly recommend it, and plan to stay here for more than one night when we visit Acadia again.

Restaurants

Mainely Meat & Atlantic Brewing
15 Knox Rd, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

This BBQ and Brewery is located outside of downtown Bar Harbor, but is definitely worth a visit.  It’s the only craft brewery on MDI, and they have great beer. Atlantic Brewing has another location in downtown Bar Harbor, but we didn’t want to miss the BBQ which the downtown location lacks.  Most restaurants in town will at least have one Atlantic Brewing beer on tap (hopefully more!).

When you visit this brewery, you’ll get a free tasting of a selection of beers. Blueberry Ale, Coal Porter, and Ellen’s Coffee Stout were my favorites. I really wish I had been able to try out all of the beers (someday, Island Ginger…). So make sure you grab a pint or two when in Bar Harbor. There’s also a small gift shop at the brewery, where I bought an Atlantic Brewing pint glass for my collection of breweries near National Parks.

Beer goes great with food, so it’s natural that they’d have a BBQ joint on-site for their Knox Road location (the downtown Bar Harbor one does not). We sat outdoors, in a super casual setting. The waitstaff was friendly and helpful, and the BBQ was very good! I got a sampler plate, with pulled pork, ribs, chicken, sausage, and all sides (BBQ beans, slaw, and potato salad). Washed down with a Blueberry Ale. K got a full plate of ribs, which were tender and flavorful, and also came with all 3 sides. The ribs were definitely the star of the show, though I liked the pulled pork too.

Sidestreet Café
49 Rodick St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We visited this restaurant on our first night in Bar Harbor. And it was pretty good – solid American-style food and drinks and decent service. Only problem was I ordered an Atlantic Brewing Blueberry Ale here, and got a different beer. I thought something was off when the beer seemed too hoppy for a fruit ale. Another clue was when the guy next to me got a beer with blueberries in the bottom, which was a nice touch.  The waitress was very apologetic, and she brought me a sample since I didn’t feel like drinking a second pint.

Finback Alehouse
30 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We really liked Finback. It was an impromptu decision, between Finback and the Thirsty Whale (which we regret we didn’t go to). Finback has a diverse selection of food and a great variety of drinks. I ended up with a Finback Local Pulled Pork sandwich which was amazing, while K had Island Fish Tacos. K thought the fish tacos were very good, but not quite as good as the fish tacos that she got in Stonington at Fisherman’s Friend. We were really impressed by the service too – the waitress made a phone call to double-check the ingredients (K is allergic to milk) and brought K the blueberry pie she had been craving.

Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast
15 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

There are quite a few breakfast places in Bar Harbor, so we had to check out at least one. And Jeannie’s was the pick, mainly because they had vegan friendly options for K. We were starving when we got here, since we had just gone on a kayaking trip. The food? It was good, I got blueberry pancakes and K got some vegan pancakes that were covered with pecans. This added a lot of texture and I think the vegan pancakes may have been even better than the regular ones. They had an amazingly good strawberry rhubarb jam on the table; we went through most of the jar during our breakfast. The only downside to this place was the service. Actually, it was our waitress that was not the best. The hostess and other waiters/waitresses seemed fine (and even brought us water when we ran out…), but ours just didn’t seem to have a care in the world about us.

Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream
325 Main Street, Bar Harbor, ME 04609
7 Firefly Lane, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

I really wanted to like this place, but it was just okay. We had read reviews indicating that it was amazing, but in the end we were both let down. My peanut butter ice cream was good, but K’s strawberry sorbet was mediocre. It was icy and the flavor didn’t stand out. There are two locations in Bar Harbor, and they do have very interesting flavors that you don’t normally see, so you could check it out just for that.

CJ’s Big Dipper Ice Cream
150 Main St #1, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We kind of stumbled onto this place while walking around. A sign out front proclaimed that they had dairy-free soy ice cream – which was a win for K. The service was a bit odd, they try to rush everyone along to make a decision and weren’t super friendly. And they wouldn’t let K get more than one flavor in the small size, which again, was odd. But the ice cream was delicious, including the soy version, so if you’re okay with some less-than-great service and/or have a dairy allergy, this is a good place to go.

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