When we decided to visit Japan, I knew we had to go to Miyajima (宮島). Officially known as Itsukushima (厳島), Miyajima is a small island off the coast of Hiroshima. The island, along with thousands of other islands in the Seto Inland Sea, is part of Setonaikai National Park (瀬戸内海国立公園, Setonaikai Kokuritsu Kōen).

Miyajima, which means “shrine island,” boasts a unique feature: a fifty-foot tall torii gate that appears to float on the water at high tide. At low tide, visitors can walk out to the gate. There’s lots more to see and do, including visiting the highest point on the island – Mount Misen (弥山, Misen).

Mt. Misen stands at 535 meters tall. Three main hiking trails, as well as a ropeway, lead visitors to its peak. We intended to hike up the mountain, but the heat got the better of us and we decided to take the ropeway up. On the way down we would hike through Mount Misen Primeval Forest, a protected area located on the northern side of the mountain.

My parents are big fans of Japanese woodblock art (ukiyo-e), and they took me to museums to see them as a kid. They instilled a love of art in me, and I bought a few prints as an adult. The first one I bought was called “Moonlit Night at Miyajima” by Kawase Hasui, which depicts a nighttime view of the beautiful Itsukushima Shrine, surrounded by water. So we were beyond excited to experience the shrine in person.

To Miyajima

We spent two nights on Miyajima, but only one full day. We really enjoyed the island and wished we had more time there. The previous day, we had completed the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route and spent the night in Matsumoto. We then took the shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima, where we explored for an afternoon.

That evening, we had dinner with a family friend who lives in Hiroshima. Around 9:00 pm, we finally made our way to Miyajima via a ferry. It only took ten minutes, and we were the only passengers on board (aside from our family friend who insisted on accompanying us). Once we docked at the island, we walked about three minutes to Sakuraya, our hotel. It’s an affordable cozy spot with Japanese style rooms in a great location.

Itsukushima Shrine

The following morning, we headed out around 9:00 a.m. Immediately, we spotted some of Miyajima’s most popular residents: wild Sitka deer. They’re cute, relatively tame, and can be found all over the island. Watch out for them, as they will try to grab food or other items, we’re told. It’s illegal to feed the deer…so don’t do that. In the Shinto religion, Sitka deer are considered to be messengers of gods and are protected by law.

We headed straight toward Itsukushima Shrine. Along the way, we walked down Omotesando Street, where vendors sell food and souvenirs. Most vendors weren’t open yet, but we managed to find a few that were, and grabbed some snacks for breakfast. We made sure to buy some delicious Momiji manjū, a cake with various fillings that is considered a specialty on the island. Kristin was even able to find some that were dairy-free.

Omotesando Street curved to reveal our first glimpse of the Itsukushima torii gate as we walked. At high tide, the torii gate appeared to float, and its rusty orange color was striking in contrast with the blue water. The gate truly is a stunning and unique landmark.

Along the way, we stopped to take photos of the torii gate from various angles. I was glad to finally visit in person after seeing it represented in artwork throughout the years. We planned to return later in the day, during low tide, to get closer to the torii gate. Before our trip, we downloaded a tide timing app so we wouldn’t miss anything.

Next, we went to check out another popular tourist attraction on the island. After waiting in a long line and paying 300 yen apiece, we entered the Itsukushima Shrine complex. It has the same striking vermillion color as the torii gate, and is built over the water. It was crowded with tourists as we walked through.

Near the center of the shrine, we got our goshuin stamped, then walked out onto a platform with a view of the torii gate. Tons of people were waiting to get their photo with the torii gate beyond. So, we jumped on the bandwagon and got our picture too, before exiting the shrine to the east. We planned to stop by in the evening to get yet another view of the torii gate. Thinking about all the shrines we visited in Japan, this is one of the most impressive.

Ascending Mount Misen

At this point in the day, the temperature was quickly approaching scorching hot. It was around 90 °F, and with the humidity between 60% and 80%…it felt like more than 100 °F. Thankfully, the area was designed with streams that flow through constructed channels, so we dipped our feet in to cool off. We also got gelato at Baccano, which helped. Despite the heat, we were ready to ascend Mount Misen.

The history of Mt. Misen is connected with Kobo Daishi (774 – 835), a famous Buddhist monk who created the Shingon sect. In 806, he founded a temple called Daisho-in at the base of Mt. Misen. There are Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen, all legendary events said to have happened to Kobo Daishi. We saw two of the wonders while on Mt. Misen; many of the others are inaccessible or no longer exist.

There are three hiking routes to climb Mt. Misen: the Momijidani, Daisho-in, and the Omoto Course. Each course is a bit different. We originally thought we’d take the Momijidani Course up and the Daisho-in Course down. But we started to rethink our options due to the heat.

There is a fourth option to get to the top: The Miyajima Ropeway. We decided to ascend Mount Misen using this option and descend via the Daisho-in course. Daisho-in Temple is located near the exit of the Daisho-in course, and we wanted to visit that as well. After exiting the ropeway, the route to the summit and then down to Daisho-in is roughly 3.5 km (2.2 mi).

It was about a 20 minute walk from our hotel to Miyajima Ropeway. This route would take us through Momijidani Park, which is famous for its maple trees. We planned to walk, but when the free shuttle came by, we decided to take it. It was hot, enough said.

We arrived at the ropeway, bought our tickets, and got into a car with a friendly Japanese couple who spoke a bit of English. The views were decent as we went up the first section of ropeway, and before we knew it, we arrived at Kayadani Station. The second ropeway section had even better views, with a gorgeous look southeast of the Seto Sea.

Mount Misen Summit

Eventually, we arrived at Shishiiwa Station, the final stop on the ropeway. But we weren’t at the summit yet. From the ropeway it’s a 1.0 km (0.6 mi) hike to the top, which takes about 30 minutes via the Momijidani Route.

The trail wasn’t too hard, and we had nice views of the Seto Sea. In about 15 minutes, we came to a flat area with a couple of buildings: Misen Hondo (Misen Main Hall) and Reikado (Hall of the Spiritual Flame). We started in Reikado, where a fire lit in 806 by Kobo Daishi has been burning for over 1,200 years. The fire from this temple was used to light the fire at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. It’s considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen.

Next we did a quick look into the nearby temple, Misen Hondo, then continued to ascend up to the summit. We passed by additional buildings: Sankido, Monjudo, and Kannondo Halls. All are places of worship, dedicated to a variety of deities.

It was a short walk to the top, and we weaved around and below some boulders before arriving. We had to duck to pass under Kuguriiwa, or Passage Rock. Finally, we arrived at the summit. Inside the observatory, we enjoyed the shade and a 360 degree view of the Seto Inland Sea and Hiroshima Bay. There’s also a small gift shop at the bottom of the building.

Descending Mount Misen and Daishoin Temple

Around 3:30 pm, we decided to head down. We wanted to check out Daisho-in Temple, but it closes at 5:00 pm, so we were going to be tight on time. The trail continues down the other side of the mountain and leads to the other two routes, Daisho-in and the Omoto Course. Near the top, we passed another of the Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen – Kanmaniwa known as the “ebb-and-flow rock.” The rock has a hole with saltwater that rises and lowers with the tide. We didn’t stick around long enough to see the phenomenon though.

After the Kanmaniwa rock we passed Dainichido Hall, but we didn’t have time to explore further. We descended multiple flights of stairs, and turned right to continue down the mountain. I was glad we had decided to hike down rather than up, because I was sweating buckets and it was nearly a hundred degrees.

As we passed a small shrine along the trail, we heard buzzing. Looking around, we saw a swarm of hundreds of bees above the small shrine. Thankfully, they seemed preoccupied, so we slid quickly by, past a turnoff to Miyama Shrine.

We passed between two large rocks on each side of the trail known as Kujiraiwa, which means Whale Rock. The rock on the left looks like a whale, and has a hole on the top which resembles a blowhole. And the round rock on the left…is the whale’s poop. It sounds like I made that up, but I promise I didn’t. Soon after, we passed through Niōmon (仁王門, Niou gate), which has two guardian statues. After the gate, the trail forks onto the Daisho-in and Omoto Courses. We headed left for the Daisho-in Course.

The trail parallels, and occasionally crosses, the Shiraito River down a seemingly endless staircase. In 2005, a mudslide damaged Daisho-in temple and other areas. On the way down, we spotted some large dam-like structures that help prevent mudslides, which had been constructed a few years later in 2008.

At 4:30 pm we arrived at a small shelter called the Azumaya Observation Deck. There’s a decent view looking north (though not as broad a view as when we were higher up). At this point, it’s about 0.4 miles (0.7 km) to Daisho-in. Quickly, we passed some small shrines on the side of the trail as we descended. We had to hurry, and didn’t spend as much time as we’d like looking at everything. We passed Shiraito Falls, which supposedly resembles threads of silk. But not much water was flowing, so we didn’t really get that impression. We also heard that the mudslides in 2005 altered the way the falls look.

Somehow, we made it to Daisho-in just ten minutes before it closed. That’s nowhere near enough time to do it justice. But, we did our best and even got our goshuin stamped. Daisho-in has hundreds of small rakan statues, which represent the disciples of Buddha. There are also buildings and caves you can explore. When we revisit Miyajima someday, Daisho-in is one place we’d like to spend more time.

Dinner and Itsukushima Torii Gate at Low Tide

Once we walked back into the heart of the town, we noticed something had changed. Fewer people were out and about. Miyajima has a lot of day tourists, so the evenings seem a lot more chill. It was still pretty hot, so we decided to get ice cream…again. Twice in one day, why not? The server recognized us and gave us an additional scoop for free. Now it was time to see the torii gate again – at low tide.

The torii gate looked dramatically different. We walked onto the sand, which had been submerged not long ago. Now, a trickle flowed underneath the torii gate. Near the gate, we spotted various wildlife like small crabs. Eventually we made our way toward, and finally under, the torii gate. Being that close to the gate was a surreal and memorable experience.

For dinner, we decided to check out a brewery. I had been loving all the Japanese food we got on our trip, but I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to try some craft beer (though it’s less popular in Japan than in the US). Miyajima is known for oysters, which Kristin tried, as well as anago (fresh-water eel). I, on the other hand, really enjoyed the beer – especially the Blood Orange.

After dinner, we walked around and explored the area until it got dark. Stone lanterns by the water’s edge were lit for both ambiance and safety. At night, the shrine and torii gate are also illuminated, adding another element to their beauty and uniqueness. The gate in particular looked even more striking and majestic at night. By then, we were pretty tired, so we headed back to Sakuraya to crash.

The next morning we got a small breakfast of toast, salad, egg, tea, and juice for ¥500 through Sakuraya, (we had to request it the night before). After breakfast, it was time to go! We boarded the ferry back to Hiroshima, and sadly, our Miyajima adventure was over.

We wished we had more time to explore all that Miyajima has to offer. Specifically, I’d also like to hike up Mt. Misen next time (weather permitting), and further explore the east side of the island. The time flew by, but I was glad to finally see the torii gate that I’d seen in artwork since I was a kid.

Links

• Attractions
  • Setonaikai National Park Official Site (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Setonaikai (English)
  • Miyajima Tourist Association: Mt. Misen (English)
  • Japan Guide: Daisho-in Temple (English)
• Accomodations
  • Sakuraya (English)
• Restaurants
  • Miyajima Brewery (Japanese)
  • Baccano (Japanese)
• Other
  • Tides Near Me App (Google Play Store)

Maps

• Nature Hikes on Miyajima Maps (English) – Four maps of different courses on Miyajima. Lots of information, descriptions, and the best maps I had found for the island.

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One of the top tourist attractions in the Japanese Alps is the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (立山黒部アルペンルート). Located in northern Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen), the route takes visitors on a journey through the mountains. The trip involves multiple modes of transportation such as bus, trolley, and cable car. Highlights of the Alpine Route include the snow corridor, hiking trails, the Midagahara wetlands, Kurobe Dam, volcanic features, and scenic views. Each stop along the route has its own personality and attractions.

The Alpine Route is only accessible from mid-April through November due to snow accumulation. Hotels, mountain huts, and campgrounds are located along the route, so you can make your trip as long or short as you like. We chose to spend one night in Midagahara Hotel (弥陀ヶ原), just below the apex of the route.

Murodo, the highest point along the Alpine Route, is home to Mount Tate (立山, Tateyama). We hoped to climb it as a day hike, but ended up exploring hiking trails at Midagahara instead due to time constraints. We were able to check out the volcanic area around Murodo known as Hell Valley. Murodo also boasts a picturesque but pricey lodging option called Hotel Tateyama.

Day 1 – Toyama to Midagahara

The day after we completed our backpacking trip to Mount Yari (Yarigatake), we took a bus from Shinhotaka Onsen to Toyama. Our journey officially began in Toyama, on the west side of the Alpine Route. Alternately, you could start on the east side, in Shinano Omachi.

A train took us from the Dentetsu Toyama Station to Tateyama Station. As with all our train rides in Japan, it was wonderful. We passed lots of verdant rice farmland along the way. After arriving at Tateyama Station, we awaited our second mode of transportation: a cable car to Bijodaira.

Our final type of transportation for the day was a bus, which took us to Midagahara. The bus goes all the way to Murodo, but you can press a “stop button” to get off earlier. Plenty of other people got off at Midagahara too, so we didn’t need to press it ourselves. The bus ride was peaceful, and had some decent views. The guide pointed out Shomyo Falls – the tallest waterfall in Japan – on the left side, though it was hard to see. For a better view, you can take a bus from Tateyama Station, followed by a short hike.

We got off the bus at Midagahara, and checked into the western style hotel, naturally called Midagahara Hotel. They upgraded our room when we checked in. We had reserved a twin room, but we ended up with a larger room with a lovely view and three beds! …score? Midagahara is known for its surrounding wetlands, so our plan was to go hike!

Day 1 – Midagahara Boardwalk Outer Course Hike

A network of trails runs throughout the park, and behind Midagahara Hotel are a couple recommended circuits – an inner loop, and a larger outer loop. The outer loop is only 2.1 km (1.3 mi), so we decided on that one. The trail begins on a boardwalk, which is the best place to hike in my opinion. Hiking over water allows you to access places and plant life you wouldn’t normally be able to.

There were wildflowers along the hike, but figuring out what they all are takes some work! The views out from the boardwalk were gorgeous, with clouds that looked like steam escaping from the earth. Around the path are “Gaki-no-ta,” or small ponds. They look like rice paddy fields, and are said to have been created by a hungry demon. The reflections in the pool gave the area an ethereal ambiance.

Every so often the hotel does a guided tour of the wetlands. And we ran right into the group. The only bad thing about boardwalks is there’s not much room to get around people. The guided group stopped frequently to hear the guide (who was speaking Japanese, otherwise we would have joined). Eventually, we got around the group and continued past the turnoff for the inner loop.

The trail transitions back and forth from a stone path to a boardwalk, and crosses a small stream. It feels more confined in this section, with bamboo grass surrounding the trail. Near the end of the loop, we spotted some snow next to the trail – and it was mid-July!

Asian skunk cabbage was just starting to blossom near the trail. The hotel was in view at this point, so we headed that way. The last unique wildflower we saw was a type of purple marsh orchid, which excited me since I always love seeing any kind of orchid. Overall, we really enjoyed our short hike.

Back at the hotel, it was time for dinner. It included a regional specialty called shiroebitei – raw white shrimp sashimi from Toyama Bay. We weren’t quite sure how to eat them, but we really enjoyed this delicacy. There was also a Wagyu beef hot pot (it was amazing) and a selection of other delicious food.

Day 2 – Murodo

Early the next morning, we caught a bus to Murodo, the highest point along the Alpine Route. Near the top is a popular destination called the “snow corridor,” where the road can have snow walls up to 20 meters (66 feet) high on both sides. Spring is the best time to experience it, and the bus will stop so visitors can get out and explore. The snow walls were significantly lower when we visited in the summer, but we still enjoyed our brief glimpse from the bus window. As we expected, the temperature in this area was much cooler than it had been at lower elevation.

The bus dropped us off at the Murodo Bus Terminal, and we promptly went to explore. There are a multitude of trails nearby, and we decided to do a short loop hike around Mikurigaike Pond. Mikurigaike and other nearby ponds are volcanic, meaning (we think) that they were formed in a caldera after a volcanic eruption, and later filled with rainwater and snowmelt.

A typhoon was impacting the area, so it was very foggy and a bit rainy. We plunged into the murky fog as we started the trail across stone-lined paths. Notably, snow covered some parts of the trail.

Our first stop was Mikurigaike Pond, which was surrounded by snow. Around this time, the clouds started to lift, revealing much appreciated blue sky. The ponds seemed to come to life as they reflected sky overhead. Near Mikurigaike, we spotted a rock ptarmigan, known as raichō (雷鳥) in Japan. There’s a population of about 350 of them in the Murodo area, and we were lucky to spot one. They’re not afraid of people, so I was able to get a close-up photo.

Next, we passed Jigokudani (Hell Valley), a volcanic area that reminded me of Yellowstone National Park. A trail passes through it, but it had been closed due to a high concentration of volcanic gases. However, we could look down at the steam vents to see the gases rising from the area. Mikurigaike Onsen is located near the trail to Jigokudani, if you want to stop for a soak.

We continued onto a side trail toward Rindouike Pond, which was covered with snow, so the view was a little disappointing. We spotted some Chinoike, or Blood Ponds, which appear reddish due to the high concentration of iron oxide. The air smelled heavily of sulfur along this section of trail, so we turned around and headed back to the loop once the smell became too pervasive.

Midorigaike Pond was our next sight. Smaller than Mikurigaike, it was very picturesque and lined with wildflowers. Mount Tateyama rises up behind the pond, though its summit was obscured by clouds. We passed Tateyama Murodo Mountain Hut, and then finished our loop. It was lunch time, so we ate our onigiri bento from Midagahara Hotel. Afterward, we decided to continue along the Alpine Route. I wish we had more time to explore Murodo, particularly to hike Mount Tateyama.

Day 2 – Kurobe Dam

We climbed aboard a trolley, our fourth mode of transportation. It took us through Mount Tateyama via a tunnel, en route to Daikanbo. At Daikanbo, an observation station affords great views of the surrounding mountains. Kristin found an interesting snack here which we hadn’t seen before: gohei mochi, which is basically grilled mochi covered in a sweet soy sauce. It’s a specialty of the surrounding mountainous region of Central Japan. It was delicious and we bought more at every opportunity going forward.

From Daikanbo, we boarded our fifth unique mode of transport, a ropeway down to Kurobedaira. We enjoyed the views, but it was too crowded to get any good photos. From there, we took a cable car to Kurobe Dam.

The sixth mode of transport is simply walking across the dam itself. Built between 1956 and 1963, the dam is on a grand scale and provides gorgeous views of the Kurobe River. As we walked across, water gushed through the open spillway.

The dam is a true tourist attraction, and its many platforms provide a variety of spectacular views. We tried to capture the essence of the dam through photos, but its massive size made our task difficult. After scoping out a few different perspectives, we continued on the Alpine Route. We took our seventh and final mode of transport: an electric bus which traveled through a tunnel to Ogizawa. From there, we took a bus to Shinano Omachi, the terminus of the route.

The Alpine Route was such a unique experience, and it allowed us to see so much of central Japan in a relatively short time. If you have time, we highly recommend checking it out. However, what we did is only a snippet of what’s available, as there are many other attractions along the route. Our next destination would be something completely different: we would travel south to Itsukushima (厳島), also known as Miyajima or “Shrine Island,” in Setonaikai National Park.

Links

• Official Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route Website (English)
• Wikipedia: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (English)
• Japan Guide: Alpine Route (English)
• Japan Guide: Midagahara (English)
• Midagahara Hotel (English)
• Japan Guide: Murodo (English)

Map

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Our hiking journey in Japan had been challenging due to Typhoon Prapiroon. It prevented us from summiting both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake. Though disappointed, we were still optimistic about our longest and most-anticipated hike to Mount Yari (槍ヶ岳, Yarigatake) in Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen). We had planned a three-day, 32.6 km (20.3 mi) trek, staying in mountain huts along the way. Our one-way route took us from Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), to Mount Yari, then to Shinhotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉). Thankfully, this trip turned out better than both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake.

Planning: Route

When researching where to hike in Japan, we stumbled upon Kamikochi – a scenic mountainous region within Chubusangaku National Park. Subsequent searching led to Mount Yari. The mountain is named after the Japanese word for “spear,” as the tip of the mountain looks rather sharp. Mount Yari is 3,180 meters (10,433 feet) tall and is the fifth tallest mountain in Japan.

The timing of our trip was important. Mt. Yari can get crowded, especially from mid-July through August. This is especially due to schools letting out for summer break. When we went in early July, it was significantly less crowded. However, we also had to consider the impact of the rainy season (early June through mid-July), which turned out to be significant.

There are multiple routes to the top of Mount Yari. A popular route is a loop from Kamikochi to Mount Yari, and then to Mount Hotaka (穂高岳, Hotaka-dake). It’s often called the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit. We were interested in it, but were put off by the section between Yari and Hotaka called the Daikiretto which means “big cut” in Japanese. It’s extremely steep and dangerous (people die there every year), with exposed ascents and descents. While I was intrigued, Kristin was not open to that option. Probably for the best, considering the wet weather we encountered.

Instead, we decided on a one-way route that started in Kamikochi and ended in Shinhotaka Onsen. Our trip would be three days and two nights, and we planned to stay in mountain huts along the trail. Each day of the journey would be strenuous, especially the second and third days. In early July, there was still a chance that we’d have to hike across snow fields. Just in case, we brought some inexpensive crampons, which (spoiler alert) came in handy.

Planning: Accommodations

Most mountain huts in Chubusangaku National Park provide meals and overnight accommodations. This meant we wouldn’t need to bring a tent, sleep system, or cooking gear. Sleep arrangements are typically dormitory style with wide bunks, though sometimes private rooms are available. If you prefer to camp, there are also campgrounds along the route.

Some mountain huts require reservations, but the ones we chose in 2018 did not. But, as of 2020, they now require reservations. These can be made online, even if you can’t speak Japanese. There are many lodges other than the ones we picked, so you can really customize a trip however you choose. Campgrounds typically don’t require reservations.

As of summer 2024, Yarisawa Lodge and Yarigatake Sanso cost ￥15,500 (~$100) per person per night for accommodations and three meals (dinner, breakfast, and to-go bento). The price can be reduced by forgoing some of the meals. An extra ￥12,000 (~$80) will get you a small private room. Mountain hut pricing differs, so be sure to bring yen regardless of the cost. Credit cards are not usually accepted.

To conclude our hike, we made a reservation at Yarimikan in the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. We wanted to experience an onsen, and Yarimikan has private baths. An onsen seemed like a great spot to relax after our 3-day journey.

Planning: Maps

English hiking maps of Japan are difficult to find. So, we bought Japanese maps and made it work. We had both paper and electronic maps. For paper maps, we got Mapple Map #40 from Amazon Japan for ￥1320 (~$10), which detailed the surrounding area. The map shipped quickly, and is good waterproof quality, though the NatGeo maps in the US are tougher. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”

As far as electronic maps, we downloaded Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) from Android Play. It’s free to install the app, then you purchase the specific map(s) you’re looking for. It provides an electronic version (same as Mapple’s paper version), plus you can see your location on it. We appreciated having both the paper and electronic versions, just in case.

After opening the app, you’re greeted by a “sign” with three options. The first option will go to your purchased maps (there’s a free sample map). At the bottom of that screen is a button that allows you to select other maps to purchase. Clicking on any of the maps leads to a product page where you can see more information. At the bottom of that page is a button that you click to buy that map. Currently, each electronic map costs $4.49.

Generally Japanese trails themselves don’t have names like they do in the United States. Instead, trail signs point to the destination at each intersection. So, we would follow trail signs to Mt. Yari. Similarly, Japanese trail maps don’t list distances. Instead, they list the approximate time from intersection to intersection in both directions. I can appreciate that, but I’d rather have the distance since hikers move at different speeds.

To help other travelers, we created a map for this hike in English and Japanese. Hopefully it helps if you’re planning a similar trip. Use at your own discretion, but we tried our best to make it helpful. We were given an English map when we got to the park, but it wasn’t as detailed or extensive as we would have liked, so we didn’t rely on it. Instead, we used the Mapple ones.

Planning: Gear

When we climbed Yarigatake in early July, there were still some snow fields. Just in case, we had brought crampons with us. And we were glad we had them, though we saw some climbers not using them. We also used trekking poles, and recommend doing so regardless of when you hike due to large elevation gains and losses. The snow fields would likely be greatly reduced by late July.

Due to snow melt, there were streams everywhere and it was easy to find water. We brought our Sawyer Squeeze water filter and found it helpful. Water is also available at huts. Generally, unless you stayed at a particular hut, you would need to purchase your water.

Since we were staying at huts, we didn’t need a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, or cooking gear. This lightened our load considerably. We brought smaller backpacks – an Osprey Kestrel 38 for me, and Osprey Kyte 36 for Kristin. We both brought a rain jacket and rain pants, which were helpful. We also had small umbrellas which seemed like a strange item to bring on a backpacking trip, but turned out to be invaluable in this case.

Most of our snacks were brought from the United States, but we augmented our stash with Japanese ones too. It was fun trying different things that aren’t available at home. The mountain huts took care of breakfast, lunch, and dinner. For lunch, we requested a bento from the hut, which we’d eat on the trail. That made it simpler and easier than packing our own lunches. Mountain huts also sell snacks, though they’re understandably expensive.

Day 0 – Arriving at Kamikochi

On Friday we arrived at Kamikochi, and tried to determine whether our Mt. Yari trip would be possible given the typhoon. We went to the nearby information center to ask. The workers there were super helpful, and told us there was currently an impassable stream on the stretch from Mt. Yari to Shinhotaka Onsen. Bummer. We hoped that the weather would improve, but it continued to rain the rest of the day.

On Saturday, we inquired again and were told the same thing. Sunday was when we would be starting our backpacking trip. Conflicted, we headed back to Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (西糸屋山荘, Nishi Itoya Sansō), where we were staying in Kamikochi. We requested another night there, since we had decided not to hike Mount Yari.

Instead, one of the staff tried to convince us to hike Yari. He showed us the forecast, which was not great for our first day, but seemed to be good for the following days. The man was a guide who had done the hike to Yari multiple times. We went back and forth, but in the end, he convinced us to go for it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right? Plus, this might be our only chance to do this hike. We made the right call, as the trip was fabulous. Thanks to the staff member at Nishi-ito-ya who got us to reconsider!

Day 1 – Leaving Kamikochi

Nishi-ito-ya in Kamikochi is a great lodge, and the staff was so friendly. Before leaving, we sent our luggage to Yarimikan via Takyubin. It’s a very handy luggage forwarding service that we used multiple times while in Japan. Leaving Nishi-ito-ya, we headed north along the path, past Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi) on our right. We decided to travel along the north side of the Azusa River so we could visit Myojin Pond (明神池, Myojinike) and Hotaka Shrine. It added about 15 minutes to our hike (compared to taking the path south of the river), but we didn’t want to miss these spots.

The rain continued as we walked along the river. Everything was drenched, but people were still out exploring. We were able to use our umbrellas, as the trail was fairly wide. Before long, we came upon Dakesawa Marsh (sometimes translated as Takezawa), which has a boardwalk. The area was flooded, but thankfully the water was still below the boardwalk. It’s beautiful, and the rain almost enhanced its beauty. And I’m a sucker for boardwalks and marshes.

After the marsh, we continued walking over bridges and past roaring streams. All the rushing streams head toward the Azusa river. We came upon an area with wide boardwalks along the river. At this point we saw how high the river had gotten based on it’s height compared to the trees. It was kind of daunting, as the rain continued to fall.

Day 1 – Myojin Pond

The rain started picking up even more as we reached a gravel road. We walked on it for a short time before getting onto another trail which ran parallel to the road. Eventually though, part of the trail was closed due to the high water, so we had to hike on the road. A truck trundled past us, and eventually we reached Myojin Pond and Hotaka-Okumiya Shrine. Part of the shrine is free to access, and you can pay ¥500/person to access Myojin Pond. We decided to pay the extra fee, bought a nice charm, and got our goshuin stamped. The pond is very serene and picturesque, and we were glad we got to see it. However we aren’t convinced it was worth the price we paid. The shrine is a branch of the main Hotaka Shrine, which is near Matsumoto.

Near Hotaka-Okumiya shrine is a small lodge called Kamonji-Goya. It was almost time for lunch, so we took a look at the menu, but nothing struck our fancy. The restaurant is actually quite famous, but we didn’t know that until later. At Myojin Bridge, we crossed the Azusa River. There were some free port-a-potties at the bridge too, if you’re in need of a restroom. On the other side of the bridge is a lodge called Myojinkan, where we hoped to get lunch.

It was still raining (surprise!). We avoided puddles, and saw people here and there. We arrived at Myojinkan – it’s a nice hut with a good selection of food and an English language menu (with pictures). I ordered the gyudon and Kristin got some tempura udon. Both were solid. We also grabbed a C.C. Lemon, one of our favorite Japanese soft drinks, from a nearby vending machine. Most vending machines in Kamikochi seemed to have it.

Leaving Myojinkan, we got out our umbrellas again. The next section is a flat, easy hike along the river. As we hiked, the rain started tapering off. And before we knew it, the sun started peeking out! We were overjoyed. It was the first time we saw the sun in four days. Invigorated, we continued on, enjoying views of mountains and the river. Along this section is a small pond called Furuike (古池, Old Pond), which is beautifully clear and mirror-like due to incoming spring water.

Day 1 – Tokusawa and Yokoo-Sanso

After crossing a stream that flows into the Azusa River, we entered a wooded area. From a distance, we spotted Tokusawa Lodge and went to check it out. There, we took a quick snack break. Shortly after, we passed free bathrooms, Tokusawa Campground, and Tokusawa-en Lodge. Past the Tokusawa area, we encountered mostly rolling hills where the trail is wide and follows the river. Eventually the trail narrows, and we passed a beautiful suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) that heads back across the river. We didn’t cross it, but couldn’t resist taking some photos.

We reached Yokoo-Sanso, the last lodge before Yarisawa, and noticed restrooms and a campground nearby. Checking our map, we saw that we were about 1 hour and 40 minutes away from Yarisawa. We weren’t sure whether to trust the time on the map, but it was 3:30 p.m., and dinner is served at Yarisawa at 5:00 p.m. I went into Yokoo-Sanso and asked the staff to call Yarisawa and let them know we’d be late. We wouldn’t get the usual dinner, instead it will be dehydrated curry, but we were okay with that (and we didn’t have a choice).

Confident that we’d be able to get some dinner that night, we grabbed another C.C. Lemon from a vending machine and continued on. The wide level path becomes more of a hiking trail here. It narrows, becomes rocky, and the trail starts to ascend significantly for the first time. As the trail took us closer to the river, we could see the beautiful rushing water. The air around us cooled, and we could see our breath.

The trail continued ascending and we spotted a sign along the trail. With my basic Japanese language skills, I read “Ganbatte!” which means “do your best” in English. It was a nice motivator, and we knew we were getting close. 10 minutes later, we saw the lodge and celebrated.

Day 1 – Yarisawa Lodge

Checking into the Yarisawa Lodge, we paid for our three meals and accommodations. We decided not to spend extra money for a private room. The staff started making our dehydrated curry. Kristin had to get the vegetarian curry because the beef one had milk in it. She was glad that they were able to accommodate her dietary restriction.

While our food was being prepared, we checked out the dorm area. We had spots on a top bunk, and were relieved to see that we had the whole row to ourselves. That’s one benefit of visiting during the off season. There were other guests below and across from us. Only about 15 people were staying the night, and we appreciated that the staff spread the guests out for privacy. Next to our bunk was a small window that overlooked the river.

Yarisawa has a drying room, so we grabbed our wet gear from the morning and went to check it out. We headed downstairs, past the public bath (which is open briefly at a designated time) and restrooms. We opened the door and immediately felt the intense heat of the drying room. There were shelves, clips, and hangers everywhere. All our gear dried within a few hours, except for our boots which were soaked.

Our dinner was ready, so we went into the dining room and ate our curry and rice. It was pretty good! We were just happy to eat at that point, though we wondered what the regular meal had been like. After finishing up, we explored the hut, and decided to go to bed early. Many hikers in Japan wake up before dawn, and breakfast would start at 5:30 a.m.

The pillow was weird, and the futon not super comfortable, but we fell asleep quickly. At 4 a.m. we were awakened by our bunkmates below. They continually rustled their bags as they packed up to leave. Like plastic grocery bags. Rustle, rustle, rustle. For about 30 minutes before they left the lodge. Some hikers like to get a really early start. We just wished they had packed the night before.

Day 2 – Leaving Yarisawa

Around 6 a.m. the next morning, we went to the dining room to join 8 or so other guests that stayed for breakfast. Some hikers start their day early and have breakfast on the trail, but that wasn’t an option for us. Plus, we wanted the full mountain hut experience. Breakfast was simple but good: miso soup and rice, both served family style, as well as veggies, tea, and a small piece of fish. We talked to a few other guests, and learned that several other hikers were heading to Yarigatake too.

After breakfast, we picked up our lunch bento, packed up, and filled up our water bottles. We purchased a couple of overpriced snacks, and Kristin bought a souvenir bear bell. It was 7:30 a.m. when we headed out. Immediately outside Yarisawa was a telescope. Curious, we peered through it and saw a very sharp mountain peak – Mt. Yari (Yarigatake). It was distant, but we appreciated knowing that our destination was in sight. We’d be hiking 5.7 km (3.5 mi) and ascending 1396 meters (4580 feet) that day. And, finally, the weather was gorgeous!

Finally, the trail started to ascend. It was rocky but easy going. We continued until we reached a shelter area (we later learned it’s called Babadaira Campground) with a restroom. As we ascended, we started seeing beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and valley. Clear alpine streams rushed down the mountainside due to the melting snow. Sometimes these streams were running on the trail itself. We saw a few other hikers going the opposite direction, but otherwise it was a quiet trail.

Eventually we broke out our bentos to see what they were. They were large, rectangular onigiri with lotus root, egg, and veggies. We weren’t sure of all the ingredients, but it was delicious. Savory with a slight sweetness, it was the best bento that we got from a lodge/hut in Japan.

Day 2 – Across Snow Fields

After lunch, we reached the first of four snow fields. It was a bit scary, never having crossed them before. We had brought some cheap, probably not great quality, four-point crampons. We strapped them over our boots, went slow, and also relied on our trekking poles to cross the snow field. I wished we had brought some microspikes or better crampons, but we got across without issue. We saw other hikers that didn’t use any crampons, but…I’d still recommend bringing something. The first snow field was the shortest, while the snow fields at higher elevation were larger.

We crossed a longer snow field, then spotted a cave. Banryu (1786-1840), a Buddhist priest and the first known climber of Yarigatake (1828), stayed in this cave for 54 days, while chanting constantly. Inside the cave are a few Jizo statues. After leaving the cave, we came to our longest snow crossing, which we took slowly and carefully.

Eventually we started seeing boulders with numbers painted on them. Initially, we thought the numbers represented the hiking distance to the peak of Mt. Yari, or the elevation. However, we eventually realized it’s actually the elevation gain required to reach the top in meters. It was a nice measure of our progress, which gave us renewed energy. In the rock scramble sections, some rocks had large Xs and Os on them, indicating where to go (the Os) or avoid (the Xs), which was useful since the terrain wasn’t a defined path.

As we climbed higher, the spear-shaped peak of Yarigatake came into view again. Eventually, we spotted Yarigatake Sanso, just below the peak, where we would spend the night. It was a rough climb, but we eventually made it around 2:45 p.m. We were exhausted, but thrilled that we were finally there. Behind us were amazing views of the area we had just hiked through.

Day 2 – Summiting Yarigatake

At Yarigatake Sanso, we reserved our bunks and set our gear aside. Hikers can climb the peak of Yarigatake, situated just next to the lodge. We knew we wouldn’t have time the next day, so we decided to go ahead and do it. We had an hour or so before dinner, which turned out to be just enough time.

Climbing to the peak of Yari is not for the fainthearted. It’s a vertical climb aided by ladders, chains, and scrambling. I thought it was tons of fun, but Kristin thought it was scary. The routes up and down the peak are mostly separate, so you won’t run into people going the opposite direction. A few sections are combined, and hikers must be patient.

Making our way up the peak, we held onto the chains and ladders as we scrambled our way to just below the summit. From there, two ladders lead to the very top. Some climbers coming down mentioned that the ladders felt a bit loose. That was kind of scary to hear, but we proceeded and they seemed secure to us.

A small shrine sits at the summit (of course). The peak was shrouded in a dense fog. It was hard to see out any distance, but we did get a view of Yarisanso and glimpses of the surrounding mountains. After a few minutes, we carefully climbed back down. Here are more details about climbing the peak.

Day 2 – Dinner at Yarigatake Sanso

Back at Yarisanso, we were starving. Thankfully, it was dinner time! Unlike Yarisawa, we had arrived in plenty of time to eat. Everyone filed into the huge dining room. It could probably seat hundreds of people, though there were only about 15 guests. Nice thing about it not being peak season yet.

Sitting down at a table with others, we each had a plate of hamburger steak (hambagu) and veggies. As usual, rice and miso soup were served family style. There was another foreigner beside us, a solo British man, who was very nice. We also met and chatted with a Japanese woman who lives in Seattle. Everyone else appeared to be Japanese, and we talked with them as much as we could. A couple of guys even poured miso soup on their rice and told us it was “Japanese soul food.”

In the dining room, and the hut in general, there was a wonderful sense of camaraderie. We shared another C.C. Lemon (we’re addicted) from the vending machine. The machine also had beer, but I wasn’t feeling it (nor did it seem like the best choice for a multi-day hiking trip).

After dinner, we went upstairs to request a bento for the following day. We also inquired about the water crossing that we would reach the next day (it had been impassable for few days due to the typhoon). The staff showed us a photo of the area on an iPad. It was very hard to tell, but we thought it would be doable, so we continued with our original plan to hike to Shinhotaka Onsen. Not that we really had a backup in mind.

We went outside on the patio to take some more photos. The clouds had lifted a bit and we gazed out over the horizon. And what did we see? Mt. Fuji. It’s unmistakable due to its distinctive shape. Having been forced to abandon our plans of hiking it earlier in our trip, it was therapeutic to see it now.

We wanted to get to bed early. Our bunk was on the bottom this time, a welcome change compared with Yarisawa. Across the aisle, we spotted an older Japanese couple – our bunkmates from the previous night. Turns out they spoke some English and we had a nice conversation. And we felt a little bad that we complained about them rustling their bags early in the morning. We hope when we’re their age, we can still hike and backpack.

Day 3 – Leaving Yarigatake Sanso

We woke to the lovely sounds of bag rustling again at 4 a.m. After getting a bit more sleep, we got up around 6 a.m. We enjoyed a simple and tasty breakfast of salmon, veggies, egg, miso soup, and rice. Today would be the longest day; we would hike 12.1 km (7.5 mi) and descend 2093 meters (6867 feet). There would also be a water crossing of unknown difficulty. We were excited, but not sure how the trip would go, so we packed and headed out at 7:15 a.m.

Saying goodbye to the lodge, we headed through the adjacent campground. Its many sites are intricately laid out along and below the ridgeline, though only a few groups were using it. I was glad we stayed in the lodge. I’m not sure I trust the campground in high winds given that it’s so exposed – plus not having to bring a tent, sleeping bag, or meals is a huge advantage.

After leaving the campground, we came to an intersection. We turned right to head down the mountain. Straight would have taken us through the previously mentioned Daikiretto area. The weather was sunny and beautiful, but we didn’t see too many other hikers. Some had likely been put off by the recent weather. The trail is well defined, but steep with some loose slippery rocks in some places. Trekking poles were a necessity.

On the other side of Yari, the landscape seemed vastly different. We were surrounded by gorgeous snow-covered peaks. As we descended, we started seeing more lush green plant life. Fog rolled in, and we worried about the potential for rain, but thankfully it didn’t materialize.

Day 3 – Injuries and Lunch

Further down, we spotted some pretty wildflowers. We descended through an area with larger rocks, so we had to be careful. Suddenly, Kristin banged her knee, so I stopped to see how she was doing. She hit it pretty hard on a rock, and it was very painful. Thankfully she could still hike, but we needed to move at a slower pace.

I was hoping to get to Yarimikan, our onsen ryokan, by 17:00 (5:00 p.m.) for dinner. So we continued on, trying to hurry where we could. The area around us transitioned into a more lush, humid atmosphere that almost reminded me of a jungle. Pinked flags tied to trees sometimes marked our route.

We crossed a few streams, some of which swelled with rain water and were a bit tricky to cross. The area became more forested. Near an intersection, we passed a campground and arrived at Yaridaira Hut. It was a convenient spot to rest and grab a simple meal of udon and a C.C. Lemon. Kristin’s knee was still hurting, but manageable. Earlier we had also eaten our bento from Yarigatake Sanso, and while it was good, it wasn’t as good as the one from Yarisawa Lodge the previous day.

After finishing our meal, we continued. Concerned with time, I tried to hurry Kristin along. I moved faster to try to get her to move faster. But she could only go so fast with her knee. So we got angry with each other and barely talked for a couple hours. Eventually we apologized, and we both felt better. Part of hiking and marriage.

Day 3 – Streams and Dams

Eventually, we reached the stream that we had been warned about. It looked harder to cross than the picture we’d seen at Yarisanso. It took us 20 minutes to find a safe spot to cross without getting soaked or injured. As I landed on the other side, the rocks below me gave out. And…I banged up my leg. Poetic justice? But we got across eventually, and it turned out there were three separate crossings as the water flowed down the hill. As we were doing this, another hiker came along and hopped over everything in half the time it took us.

After the stream crossing, we made good time and reached a dry dam shortly after. Thinking the trail led right over it, we climbed down a ladder, crossed the dam, and climbed back up. We discovered that we went the wrong way though, as the trail actually goes below the dam. So we retraced our steps, curious why the dam was dry when everything else was overflowing.

On the other side of the dam, the trail became more of a fire road as we neared the end of our hike. A few streams flowed under the trail, and we passed several other dams. The terrain was gently descending at this point, so we made good time.

Passing by a lodge called Hotakadaira-goya, we immediately made a wrong turn. We continued along the “fire road,” but we should have taken a shorter trail that leads into the forest. We realized this further down the road, but we kept going since the road eventually meets back up with the other side of the trail. Eventually, we spotted the intersection with the trail. Since we missed the shortcut, we had to hike about an extra 1.0 km (0.6 mi).

Day 3 – Shinhotaka Onsen

A car passed by as we continued down the road, alongside the Gamada River. We also spotted several dams, and some buildings under construction. Soon, we stepped into the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. Thanks to Skype, we were able to call our ryokan, and they sent a shuttle. My limited Japanese and some English got the point across. Pro-tip: get a Japanese SIM card or pocket WiFi device so you can make calls.

The shuttle took us to a small, beautiful ryokan onsen called Yarimikan. We checked in, dropped our stuff in our room, and immediately went to take a bath. No one was in either the men’s or the women’s, so we had it all to ourselves. It’s a relaxing spot, with views of the Gamada River. Feeling refreshed, we headed to dinner. The meal was…disappointing. The service was slow, the food was nothing special, and they brought us one item at a time, so we couldn’t really enjoy our meal. Everything else about the onsen was amazing, but the food could’ve been better. Especially compared with other ryokans we visited.

After finishing our meal, we went to check out some of the private onsens. Our tired muscles enjoyed soaking and relaxing in the hot (almost too hot) water. Once finished, we returned to our room and passed out. The futon was the most comfortable one we had in Japan. We were glad, because we needed the rest after our 3-day adventure.

In the morning, we ate breakfast at Yarimikan (again, kinda disappointing) and checked out. The ryokan shuttle took us to the Shinhotaka Ropeway (HO65) bus stop. In a building next to the bus stop, we bought tickets from a machine for the Nohi Okuhida-Toyama bus route (note: this route seems to no longer exist, but there are other options). Prior reservations aren’t required. Our bus eventually arrived, a little late, and we were on our way to Toyama. From Toyoma, we headed into the northern part of Chubusangaku National Park, toward the Alpine Route.

Final Thoughts

Mount Yari was the highlight of our trip, with its stunning views, mountain huts, and solitude. Being surrounded by breathtaking mountains in Japan is unlike any experience we’ve had. It was also interesting culturally, since backpacking we’ve done in the US has been quite different. Our journey was nothing short of epic, and we hope to do more hiking in the region one day.

The route we planned worked well for us. The only issue was the descent on the last day. I wouldn’t recommend descending ~6000 feet in a day, but at the same time, I’m glad we didn’t take an extra day to hike down. Lastly, ending at Shinhotaka allowed us to relax in an onsen after the hike. If you want more adventure and don’t mind a potentially dangerous route, you might consider the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit.

Yarigatake is crazy busy in summer (mid-July through August), so I do recommend planning your trip during the off-season. We dealt with storms due to the rainy season though, so it’s a gamble. But we reaped the rewards with a mostly uncrowded route. So weigh what’s important to you. Fall might be another time to consider visiting.

If you’re considering this hike, there’s a list of helpful resources below. And if you have any questions or thoughts, feel free to leave a comment!

Backpacking Mount Yari (Yarigatake)

Date: Sunday, July 8, 2018 – Tuesday, July 10, 2018
Type: 2-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 32.6 km (20.3 mi) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +2060 meters (6759 feet), -2454 meters (8051 feet)

• Day 1 (Starting from Kappa Bridge):
  • Distance: 14.8 km (9.2 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 540 meters (1772 feet) gain, 225 meters (738 feet) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, including lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: Yarisawa Lodge
• Day 2 (Distance/Elevation includes climbing the peak of Mt. Yari):
  • Distance: 5.7 km (3.5 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1396 meters (4580 feet) gain, 136 meters (446 feet) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours to get to the lodge, including lunch and breaks. It took an additional 50 minutes to climb the peak of Mt. Yari.
  • Overnight: Yarigatake Sanso
• Day 3 (Ending at Shinhotaka Ropeway):
  • Distance: 12.1 km (7.6 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 124 meters (407 feet) gain, 2093 meters (6867 feet) loss
  • Time: 9 hours, including lunch and breaks
  • Overnight: Yarimikan in Shinhotaka Onsen

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections, markings painted on rocks: “O” (safe route), “X” (avoid)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, waterfalls, small ponds
Highlights: Views, wildlife, mountains, Japanese culture, lodges, wildflowers, snow, creeks, bridges, onsen
Directions to Kamikochi: Google Maps Directions
Notes: There are many route options; below is the one we did.

Trail Directions

• Day 1
  • 0.0 km / 0.0 mi – From Kappa Bridge in Kamikochi, head north on the gravel path along the river.
  • 0.2 km / 0.1 mi – Where the road and the path join briefly, bear right to stay on the path. A trail sign points toward “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 3.3 km. After about 5-10 minutes on the trail, you’ll enter Dakesawa Marsh via a boardwalk.
  • 0.7 km / 0.4 mi – Bear right at the intersection, following the sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 2.8 km. This section goes through the forest, crossing many bridges with views of the Azusa River on the right.
  • 2.4 km / 1.5 mi – Turn right when the trail intersects with the Chisan transport road. Follow the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 1.1 km.
  • 2.7 km / 1.7 mi – Turn right to get back on a walking trail, following the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.8 km. The trail runs parallel to the road along some boardwalk sections.
  • 3.5 km / 2.2 mi – Arrive at the Myojin Pond area. To see the shrine and pond, head left at the trail sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.1 km. Otherwise, continue straight toward Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.6 km / 2.2 mi – At the bridge, turn right to cross the Azusa River via Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.9 km / 2.4 mi – Arrive at Myojinkan Lodge, staying to the right of the building. At the T intersection with the main building, turn left. A trail sign points to 徳沢 (Tokusawa) in 3.4 miles.
  • 4.2 km / 2.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Tokugotoge Shimashimadani, toward Tokusawa-Yokoo.
  • 5.6 km / 3.5 mi – Pass by Furuike (Old Pond).
  • 6.8 km / 4.2 mi – Keep left at the intersection. However, if you want to take a break or explore, you could bear right toward Tokusawa Lodge. You’ll pass another intersection in a few minutes, which also leads to the lodge. Shortly after that, you’ll pass a bathroom, then Tokusawa Campground, and some lodges. Keep straight until you get to Michikusa Shokudo.
  • 7.1 km / 4.4 mi – Turn left at Michikusa Shokudo, another lodge.
  • 7.3 km / 4.5 mi – Keep right at the intersection, toward 横尾 (translated as Yokoo).
  • 8.0 km / 5.0 mi – Continue straight to “Yokoo-Karasawa-Yari” and pass a suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) on your left that crosses the Azusa River.
  • 10.7 km / 6.7 mi – Arrive at the Yokoo area, where there is a lodge, campground, and restrooms. Continue straight, with the lodge buildings on your right. A large bridge will be on your left. Follow the sign toward “槍ヶ岳”, or Yarigatake. After this point, the trail becomes more of a true hiking trail rather than a gravel path.
  • 14.8 km / 9.2 mi – Arrive at Yarisawa Lodge! Stay the night, and continue on the trail in the morning.
• Day 2
  • 16.7 km / 10.4 mi – Head left at the intersection with Minamata. Follow the sign toward Yarigatake.
  • 17.8 km / 11.1 mi – Bear right at the intersection (left leads to Mt. Minami and Tenguhara Junction).
  • 18.7 km / 11.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail that goes to Hutte Oyari. There’s a trail sign all in Japanese.
  • 19.2 km / 11.9 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail to Sessho Hyutte.
  • 19.3 km / 12.0 mi – Continue straight at another intersection that goes to Sessho Hyutte. Then, make the last push to Yarigatake Sanso.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Turn left at the intersection, and climb a short distance to arrive at Yarigatake Sanso! Check-in and relax.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Optionally, climb to the peak of Mt. Yari. From Yarigatake Sanso, head left out of the main doors toward the peak beside the lodge. At the base, a sign points to “The top of Mt. Yarigatake” in 0.2 mi. There are separate routes to ascend and descend. Follow the route to ascend with multiple chains and ladders.
  • 20.2 km / 12.6 mi – Climb the last ladder to the top, enjoy the view and shrine, then head back down along the descent route.
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Arrive back at Yarigatake Sanso.
• Day 3
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Exit Yarigatake Sanso, turn right, and pass the campground. You’ll pass a trail sign pointing to “Shinhotaka-onsen Spa” in 14.4 km, and “Mt. Hotaka-dake” in 9.0 km.
  • 20.7 km / 12.9 mi – Turn right at the intersection. A worn sign (in Japanese) is there, but it can be hard to read.
  • 22.0 km / 13.7 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.2 km / 15.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.3 km / 15.1 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past Yaridaira Goya mountain hut.
  • 25.7 km / 16.0 mi – Pass Takidani Junction, where there may be some stream crossings.
  • 27.9 km / 17.3 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past the dam. The trail becomes a gravel road.
  • 28.1 km / 17.5 mi – After the dam, continue straight past the intersection.
  • 30.5 km / 19.0 mi – Go past Hotakadaira-goya mountain hut. Locate the trail heading to the west, near the mountain hut. If you can’t find it, continue on the road (this is what we did) though it will take slightly longer.
  • 31.2 km / 19.4 mi – Turn left, back onto the road as the trail ends.
  • 32.6 km / 20.3 mi – Arrive in Shinhotaka Onsen and relax!

Maps

• Yarigatake to Shinhotaka Map (KNTP) – Map that we created, in English and Japanese. Thanks to HokkaidoWilds.com for information and directions. We did the best we could do to make this map, but please use at your own discretion.
• Mapple Map 40 (Amazon Japan) – Map is in Japanese, but has some English for specific features. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”
• Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) – Mapple App in Google Play Store to download and view digital maps (must purchase separately from paper maps).
• Northern Japan Alps Panorama-Ginza Hiking Map (Azumino City Tourist Association) – We got a paper version of this while in Japan, but this is a digital copy in English that you can view. Does not cover the area around Shinhotaka Onsen.

Links

• Kamikochi (上高地)
  • Kamikochi Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Kamikochi (English)
  • Chubu Sangaku National Park Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Chubu Sangaku National Park (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Chubu Sangaku (English)
  • Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (English) – Where we stayed in Kamikochi, highly recommended.
• Yarigatake and Mountain Huts
  • Yarigatake Page on Yarigatake Sanso Group Site (English) – Has general information about some huts and the mountain. Can get additional information from Japanese language pages if you use Google Translate. Created by the group that operates Yarisawa and Yarigatake Sanso lodges.
  • Yarisawa Lodge (Japanese) – Where we stayed our first night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yarigatake Sanso Lodge (Japanese) – We stayed here our second night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yokoo-Sanso Official Site (English) – We didn’t stay at this lodge, but it’s just below Yarisawa.
  • Yarisawa Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Yarigatake Sanso Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Japan-Guide: Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka Circuit (English)
  • Hiking in Japan: Mt. Yari (English)
  • Mt. Yari Peak Route Details (English)
• Shinhotaka Onsen
  • Yarimikan (English) – Onsen where we stayed after the hike
  • Japan-Guide Okuhida Access & Orientation (English)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Mount Yari (Yarigatake) appeared first on KTNPBlog.

While our misadventures in Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi were over, the rain from Typhoon Prapiroon continued. But it was time to head to Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen). We’d be spending almost a full week exploring the park, which encompasses the Northern Japanese Alps, so there are many opportunities for hiking and backpacking. Our first hike would be to Mount Yake (焼岳, Yakedake), an active volcano, near the town of Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi).

Located in the southern part of Chubusangaku National Park, Kamikochi has spectacular views. It’s situated in a valley surrounded by mountains, so it’s a perfect jumping off point for hikes. The area is only open to visitors from mid/late April to November 15. Visitors have to take a bus or taxi to Kamikochi, since private vehicles are not permitted in the park.

The timeframe that we visited was both good and bad. It was the tail end of the rainy season, so it wasn’t crowded. In mid July, the park would get very busy. Days before we were set to arrive in Kamikochi, Typhoon Prapiroon hit Japan, causing widespread flooding. It significantly impacted our trip, so we worked around it (or through it) as best we could.

Unfortunately, we didn’t get to the summit of Mt. Yake. We made it about three-quarters of the way up the mountain before wind and rain drove us back into the more protected valley. We’ll detail our experiences below.

Kamikochi

The day we planned to travel from Lake Kawaguchi to Kamikochi, I got an email from Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (西糸屋山荘, Nishi-ito-ya Sansō), where we’d be staying in Kamikochi. We were informed that the narrow, winding road to Kamikochi was closed due to flooding. Never ones to give up, we decided to go anyway.

Thankfully, I got an email en route that the roads had re-opened, so we were relieved. Once we reached Matsumoto, we took a train to Shinshimashima, and then a bus to Kamikochi. Alpico, the operator of the route, provides a guide to help visitors travel to the park. The bus ride afforded mountain views as we entered the park. We also saw the swollen streams along the way, as rain continued to fall.

After about an hourlong bus ride, we arrived at Kamikochi Bus Terminal. Everything was soaked and dreary. Thankfully we had brought umbrellas. We made our way along the muddy path to Nishi-ito-ya Lodge. It’s a short walk, only about 10 minutes, and we crossed the picturesque Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi) on the way.

We had booked a traditional Japanese style room, which included a toilet and sink. Once we arrived at the lodge, we checked in and got organized. Afterward, we planned to explore the area around the lodge. At this point, it was still raining, and we borrowed some large umbrellas from Nishi-ito-ya, which were appreciated. We visited some small shops, and bought a few snacks and gifts.

Kamikochi’s most famous attraction is Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi), which is close to Nishi-ito-ya. The bridge, named after a mythical aquatic Japanese creature, has become a symbol of the area. On an average day, you can see breathtaking views of the surrounding Hotaka Mountains, but on this day we couldn’t see much other than clouds. However, it was still quite pretty. Back at the lodge, we stored all our wet gear in the drying room. The staff helped us figure out where to put everything.

Nishi-ito-ya has a communal bath, and this would be our first time experiencing that. I was a bit nervous using the public bath initially, but Kristin was a bit more adventurous. After bathing, we dined at Nishi-ito-ya and got to bed early. We planned to hike to Mount Yake the next day, assuming the weather cooperated.

To Mount Yake

Mount Yake is an active volcano. Its Japanese name, Yakedake, means “burning mountain.” The highest peak is at 2,455 meters (8,054 feet), and there’s a small lake between the two main peaks.

We planned to hike to the summit of Mt. Yake (Yakedake). The route from Kappa Bridge to Mt. Yake is a 12.7 km (7.9 mi) out-and-back (round trip). The hike boasts gorgeous views, volcanic features like steam vents (fumaroles), and precariously placed ladders. It’s a strenuous hike, with 1,062 meters (3,481 feet) in elevation gain/loss. A mountain hut, called Yakedake Goya (焼岳小屋), is located near the summit. Reservations are required to stay overnight.

The next morning, it was still pouring, but we were tired of cancelling plans. After breakfast, we picked up the bento we had requested the night before from Nishi-ito-ya; this would be our lunch on the trail.

After leaving Nishi-ito-ya, we turned right onto the main trail. Our route took us south, beside the Azusa River (梓川, Azusagawa). There are multiple intersecting trails here. While some are paved, we mainly used the gravel path by the river. Usually, the Azusa River is a lucid blue (or so we heard), but on this day it was turbid and murky. The rain slowed, and even stopped intermittently. This was an improvement, so we kept going, and noticed other visitors who were equally committed to exploring the area.

Next to the path, we came upon Weston Monument, a small relief of Walter Weston (1861-1940). He introduced western mountain climbing to Kamikochi and is credited with popularizing the area as the “Japanese Alps.” Conveniently, there’s also a restroom located nearby.

We passed some hotels and lodges, followed by Tashiro Bridge on our left. Then, the trail veered away from the river. As we were hiking, we heard a loud roaring sound, and wondered if we were in trouble. Thankfully, we quickly realized it was a swollen stream flowing underneath the trail. All the streams we’d seen were at a higher volume than normal, so it shouldn’t have been a surprise.

Shortly after, we ran into a sign blocking our path. We had no clue what it said, but we assumed it said something about cars not being allowed past this section (and you know what they say about assuming), so we went around and continued on. Later, Google Translate helped us determine that the sign stated that “traffic is prohibited due to mudflow.” Thankfully, that hadn’t been an issue. We turned right onto the main trail to Mt. Yake. At this point the trail turned from a level walking path to more of a true hiking trail.

Climbing Mount Yake, Sort of

While we had seen other visitors on the gravel path along the river, we saw no one in the forest. The trail was rocky, wet, and muddy, with a subtle but increasingly steep incline. Water was everywhere! Streams flowed on, across, and through the trail. It was still raining, but the path became too narrow to use our umbrellas, so we had to rely on our other rain gear. As we crossed bridges, roaring streams flowed underneath them. The weather was miserable, but we were still enjoying the hike.

Along the trail we spotted a frog (or possibly a toad?), and I spent a lot of time trying a get a good photo. Probably too long, as Kristin was ready to move. As we continued, we started encountering multiple ladders along the trail. They’re kind of fun, but also scary since the ladders aren’t always in the best shape. They looked rickety, but they felt solid.

Some of the bridges go over a gap between rocks, which also seemed sketchy at first. Thankfully, there are handholds – either chains or ropes. Some of the ladders are literally just placed vertically on a hillside, and are attached to rods that have been hammered into the hill. At one ladder, we encountered a worker carrying gear on his back in crates. We guessed he worked at one of the mountain huts. He would be the only person we’d see before returning from our hike.

After ascending a ways, we started to get some scenic mountain and valley views. Thick clouds covered the sky, but the rain had stopped temporarily. After hiking up a hillside we reached the tallest ladder yet, going up a cliff. On closer inspection, it was actually multiple smaller ladders attached to each other. It looked scary, but wasn’t that bad when we actually got on it. Looking back, the photos appear scarier than the hike actually felt.

As we continued, we encountered chains to help us climb up the rock face. We were back under tree cover, but we could tell the rain was picking up again. As we entered an open area, weather conditions became rainy and very windy. Our umbrellas were useless at this point, but we continued on.

Eventually, we took a break under tree cover to eat lunch. The bento boxes were nothing special – two onigiri with raw umeboshi and a small fish. Breakfast and dinner had been very good at Nishi-ito-ya, so it was disappointing.

After reviewing our map, we realized we were close to Yakedake Goya mountain hut. But the weather was getting worse, we were already soaked, and we couldn’t see much because of the clouds. We also acknowledged that we could be in trouble if the weather suddenly worsened. It was disappointing, but we decided to hike back down.

We made good time on our way back down. The rain and wind cleared up as we descended into the protected valley. At that point, we decided to stay on the paved trail, away from the river since we had taken the gravel paths on the way to Mt. Yake. The paved trail doubles as a maintenance road, so we had to watch out for vehicles.

Near a trail intersection with the Mt. Nishihotaka (西穂高岳, Nishihotakadake) trailhead, we saw an animal that made the whole hike worth it: a Japanese macaque in a tree. It was the first monkey we’ve ever seen in the wild! It was a novel experience, so we snapped some photos, and made sure to keep our distance. Eventually we moved on, passing the small Oyama Shrine (Oyamanokami), or shrine to the Mountain God.

Back at Nishi-ito-ya, we were exhausted and soaked. The friendly front desk employee helped us with our gear and outerwear – shoes, umbrellas, backpack covers, rain pants, and rain jackets. He hung them up to dry, while we put on slippers and headed toward a much appreciated hot bath in the ofuro (Japanese bath), followed by dinner.

We can’t give a complete guide or review of the hike to Mt. Yake since we didn’t actually finish it. The unique obstacles – ladders, chains, and bridges – provided a fun challenge, so I can see us enjoying the hike in milder weather. I was looking forward to seeing the views and volcanic features, and maybe someday we’ll get another chance.

Mount Yake Trail

Date: Saturday, July 7, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 12.7 km (7.9 mi)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1,062 meters (3,481 ft)
Time: 6.5 hours to do 75% of the hike in terrible weather. Our Shobunsha Mapple map of the trail estimates around 8 hours for the entire hike.
Trail Markings: Signs at intersections
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: A few people along the river only
Water: River, many streams, a volcanic lake at the top we didn’t get to.
Highlights: Volcanic features, views, water, mountain hut, wildlife, wildflowers
Directions to Kappa Bridge (Kappabashi): Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 km (0.0 mi) – From Kappa Bridge (Kappabashi), head southwest along the path with the Azusa River on your left. You’ll pass Nishi-ito-ya and other lodges on your right. Numerous paths, paved and unpaved, go parallel to the river. All trails lead to Mt. Yake.
• 1.1 km (0.7 mi) – You’ll arrive at an intersection with a restroom, and then the Weston Memorial. Continue heading southwest, either along the paved transport road or gravel path by the river (distances are for gravel path). You’ll pass two onsen hotels on your right.
• 1.5 km (0.9 mi) – Arrive near Tashiro Bridge and around the Mt. Nishihotaka Trailhead. There are a few intersecting trails/roads here; just follow signs for Mt. Yake.
• 2.3 km (1.4 mi) – Turn right to exit the walking path, and begin the hiking trail to Mt. Yake. There is a large sign indicating the turnoff. Elevation gain begins here.
• 5.0 km (3.1 mi) – Turn left toward Mt. Yake. Yakedake Goya mountain hut is located at this intersection, if you want to make it an overnight.
• 5.4 km (3.4 mi) – Continue straight past the intersection.
• 6.3 km (3.9 mi) – Turn right onto a short path to Mt. Yake
• 6.35 km (3.95 mi) – At the end of the trail, turn around and head back down when ready.
• 6.4 km (4.0 mi) – Turn left and return to the main trail to head back down.
• 7.3 km (4.5 mi) – Continue straight past the intersection.
• 7.7 km (4.8 mi) – Turn right, going past Yakedake Goya.
• 10.4 km (6.5 mi) – Turn left, onto the level walking path heading north to Kamikochi.
• 11.3 km (7.0 mi) – Continue straight, past Tashiro Bridge and Mt. Nishihotaka Trailhead. You can return via the transport road or paths by the river. If you take the transport road, you’ll pass a small shrine on your left.
• 11.7 km (7.3 mi) – At the intersection with Weston Monument, take the paved or gravel path.
• 12.7 km (7.9 mi) – Back at Kappa Bridge!

Maps

• Mount Yake Trail Map (KTNP) – A map we created for the hike in English
• Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi 2024 (Shobunsha Mapple, Map #40, Amazon.co.jp) – A map of the Kamikochi area, including Mt. Yake. It’s analogous to the National Geographic maps you might get in North America. Even though it’s in Japanese, you can still understand the map if you don’t speak the language.

Links

• Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi)
  • Kamikochi Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Kamikochi (English)
  • Chubusangaku National Park Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Chubu Sangaku National Park (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Chubusangaku (English)
  • Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (English) – Where we stayed in Kamikochi, highly recommended.
  • Guide on How to Travel Between Kamikochi and Matsumoto by Bus (English)
  • Kamikochi, Wikipedia (English)
• Mount Yake (焼岳, Yakedake)
  • Mount Yake, Wikipedia (English)
  • Yakedake Goya (Japanese) – Mountain hut near the summit of Mt. Yake. Reservations required.

Places

• Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge | Kamikochi-4469-1 Azumi, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-1516, Japan
• Kappa Bridge | 36.248797, 137.637861
• Weston Monument | 36.246981, 137.626717
• Yakedake Goya | 36.236859, 137.594121

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Exploring Kamikochi and Mount Yake appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Back in 2018, we explored several regions of Japan, and we were particularly excited to finally visit some international National Parks. And we decided to start by hiking the big one: Mount Fuji (富士山, Fujisan). After that, we planned to stay in the town of Fujikawaguchiko (富士河口湖町, Fujikawaguchiko-machi), located beside Lake Kawaguchi (河口湖, Kawaguchiko) at the base of Mt. Fuji.

Spoiler alert: we weren’t able to climb Mt. Fuji, but we had fun anyway. This post details the bit we did get to experience on Mt. Fuji and in the town of Fujikawaguchiko (also located within Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park).

Planning

Mount Fuji is located in Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park (富士箱根伊豆国立公園, Fuji-Hakone-Izu Kokuritsu Kōen), southwest of Tokyo. The mountain is divided into 10 “stations,” ascending from bottom to top. We decided to start from the Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station, which is about halfway up and is accessible by bus.

There are four main trails to climb Mt. Fuji. It would be our first time hiking Fuji, so we chose the Yoshida Trail, which is the safest and most popular. It’s also easy to access from Tokyo, and has plenty of amenities. The route is around 9 miles round-trip (14.4 km), with over 4,800 feet (1463 m) of cumulative elevation gain.

We decided to make it an overnight so we could experience the sunrise. That requires waking up super early and climbing to the summit, which is supposed to be somewhat miserable…but we figured we’d be disappointed if we didn’t do it.

Scattered around Mt. Fuji are huts where guests can stay the night. Reservations are required, so we reserved spots at the Fujisan Hotel (located at the 8th Station), through Fuji Mountain Guides. This service was helpful because we were able to make our request online in English, and they booked the reservation for us.

Next, we needed transportation to Mt. Fuji, so we bought bus tickets from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station. We chose a bus with a restroom (not all buses have them) since the ride was around 2.5 hours. Two companies run buses from Shinjuku to Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station: Fujikyu and Keio. We made a reservation on a Keio bus through highwaybus.com for 6:45 a.m. The soonest we could make a reservation was around 30 days out.

We had planned our trip for early summer (the end of the rainy season) to avoid extreme crowding, so we knew there was a chance for storms. Other blogs were a good source for suggested gear. We already owned most of what we needed, but decided to purchase some heavier duty gloves and thermal base layers in case of cold or rainy weather.

Sadly, we had to call off our hike due to Typhoon Prapiroon. There’s not much you can do about 56 mph (90 km/h) winds, driving rain, and mudslides. Safety is our priority, and we try to remain flexible.

Tokyo to Mt. Fuji

Prior to attempting to hike Mt. Fuji, we stayed in Asakusa in Tokyo. Around 6:15 a.m., we took the admirably efficient train system to Shinjuku Station, then walked to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal above the JR Shinjuku Station. On the way, we made a quick stop at FamilyMart in the bus terminal for onigiri and sandwiches.

At 6:45, we boarded the bus and began navigating the streets of Tokyo. The bus was less than half full. I blame the rainy and dreary weather. We knew there was a possibility we’d have to cancel our hike, but we still had hope at this point. We kept an eye on the forecast, but it wasn’t very promising.

The bus ride was mostly uneventful, and we started to ascend Mt. Fuji. Hikers can start at the base of the mountain too, but we figured it would be challenging enough from the halfway point.

Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station

At 9:20 a.m., the bus arrived at the 5th station. It was pouring rain, windy, cold, and generally yucky. I almost didn’t want to get off the bus. But we hopped off, grabbed our backpacks from underneath the bus, and ran to the closest shelter we could find – a souvenir shop and lodge called Fujikyu Unjokaku.

As we pondered our next steps, we chatted with some other hikers, particularly about the inclement weather. Everyone seemed to be wondering what to do next. We stalled a bit by using the restroom and getting lunch. All public restrooms on the mountain cost 100 yen (we brought change).

Upstairs, the restaurant area was crowded with people who seemingly just finished their hike. We talked with a couple people who descended Mt. Fuji earlier that day and said it was miserable. They also mentioned that the weather had been perfect the previous day.

We ordered tempura udon and hoto, both of which were surprisingly delicious given the lack of other options. After we ate, we put on our rain gear, and decided to check the visitor information center. There, we were promptly told that hikers were not allowed to climb due to the current weather conditions.

So that was that. There were high winds, along with warnings about flooding and mud slides. Japan was hit hard by the typhoon, and there were even some deaths. Southern Japan was impacted the most, and we were fortunate to be further north.

We were disappointed (though not surprised), as were other hikers. Summitting Fuji is a lifelong dream for some. I was, however, relieved that we wouldn’t be hiking in those conditions. So, now what?

Our plan had been to travel to Lake Kawaguchi the following day, after completing our hike. We briefly discussed staying the night at the 5th Station, but instead decided we would travel to Lake Kawaguchi a day early so we could maximize our time and enjoyment on our international trip. The visitor center staff called Fujisan Hotel (our mountain hut) to cancel that reservation for us.

Before leaving, we explored the 5th station. We checked out the gift shops, then found Fujisan Komitake Shrine behind some buildings. The shrine was under construction, and even with the rain and wind, workers were doing some repairs.

We explored the picturesque temple, and got our goshuin stamped. In another small gift shop, we talked with a few employees, who kindly gave us some snacks. After looking around, we went to the bus booth and purchased our tickets to Kawaguchiko Station. The cost was 1,540 yen per person for a 45 minute ride.

Lake Kawaguchi – Day 1

Upon arriving in the lakeside town, the bus dropped us off at Kawaguchiko Station. We only had our backpacks with us. Our other luggage had been sent via Takkyubin to Kasuitei Ooya (花水庭おおや), the hotel where we planned to stay in Lake Kawaguchi.

At Kawaguchiko Station, we found a visitor center where the employees spoke English. They were able to book us a room at Katsuitei Ooya for that night. The only room available was a Japanese-style room – it was more expensive, but we were excited to stay there. The following night we’d have to switch to the western-style room we’d reserved previously.

The walk from the station to Katsuitei Ooya is only about 15 minutes. Conveniently, the hotel also provides a shuttle from the station, so we decide to take it. After a short drive, we checked in and went to our room – and were pleasantly surprised. Our Japanese-style room was spacious, and had a balcony with a gorgeous view of Lake Kawaguchi.

We were excited to explore Fujikawaguchiko. Afterall, the town is located inside a National Park. This concept intrigued us, since it’s quite different from National Parks in the United States. Thankfully, it wasn’t raining in town, but views of Mt. Fuji were non-existent. However, the sky and town were incredibly beautiful and serene.

Near our hotel, we browsed a row of small gift shops. We passed Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway which takes visitors to an observation deck near the peak of Mount Tenjo called Tenjoyama Park. Given the weather, we were unlikely to have a view of Mt. Fuji, but Travis and I agreed to check it out the following day (it was a must-do).

It was dinner time, so we searched online and found a tempura place called Fuji Tempura Idaten. It was a bit of a hike to get there, and it was some of the best tempura we’ve had. If you’re visiting Lake Kawaguchi, we highly recommend it – especially the asparagus tempura. The area is also well known for hoto, a thick miso stew with wide noodles. We planned to try that the following evening.

Lake Kawaguchi – Day 2

The next morning, we had a rather elaborate breakfast in the dining room at Katsuitei Ooya. We were looking to immerse ourselves in Japanese culture, so we wore our yukata. We weren’t sure if others would be wearing those or street clothes, but it was about 50/50. And they were pretty comfy too!

Next, we walked to Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway. It was raining on and off, but we were excited. After purchasing our tickets, we boarded the gondola. The views of the lake, mountains, and town were jaw-dropping. It was so gorgeous, even on a day with thick clouds, I doubt there is ever a bad view from there. Taking a slow day to explore is not our usual, and Lake Kawaguchi was the perfect place to do that.

At the top are multiple little attractions, as well as a gift shop. Scattered throughout the observation area are statues of a tanuki and a rabbit. These characters represent the Japanese fable Kachi-Kachi Yama – how a rabbit gets revenge against an evil tanuki…it’s actually a pretty dark story. Naturally, there’s also a small shrine to rabbits.

The clouds were so thick that we didn’t have a view of Mt. Fuji’s summit – but we could see the base. There are a few hiking trails up there, too. One is a long dayhike to Mount Mitsutoge (~6 hours round-trip), which unfortunately we didn’t know about at the time. Instead, we chose a much shorter 20 minute round-trip hike to the top of Mount Tenjo. The trail goes through woods and leads to a small shrine. We doubled back and took the ropeway down.

Once back down, we happened by Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine, and noticed a hiking trail that started there as well. We later learned that it leads up to Mount Tenjo and is called the “Hydrangea Route” since native hydrangea bloom there from mid-July to late-August. It was too late for us to hike it, but we were impressed with the hiking and walking options in the area. We also found a small shrine near a neighborhood.

The neighborhood itself was a peaceful, cute residential area with gardens in the back. We enjoyed getting a glimpse of the vernacular architecture and everyday Japanese life. It seemed like we often had a more authentic cultural experience when we got away from the hustle and bustle of the major cities and popular tourist attractions.

We were getting hungry, and we wanted to check out Hoto Fudo, a well known restaurant near Kawaguchiko Station. For whatever reason, they had closed early. Bummer. We searched online and found another hoto place called Koshu Hoto Kosaku, which was a 25-minute walk from our hotel. That wasn’t going to dissuade us though. The experience was worth the walk, as the food was delicious, and the ambiance was perfect. There are low tables, and it’s a huge space which we had almost entirely to ourselves.

Kawaguchiko – Day 3

The next day, we took a train from Lake Kawaguchi to Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), which is located in Chubu Sangaku National Park. We were ready for our next adventure, a three-day backpacking route up to Yarigatake. But the typhoon was still in full force throughout much of Japan, so once again we weren’t sure what to expect. Thankfully, Yarigatake would be much more successful than our Mt. Fuji climb.

Links

• Mount Fuji (富士山, Fujisan)
  • Fuji Mountain Guides – Reservations (English) – Third party service that will reserve Fuji mountain huts for guests
  • Highwaybus.com (English) – Shinjuku to Mt. Fuji Bus Reservations
  • Official Site for Climbing Mt. Fuji (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Climbing Mt Fuji (English)
  • Official Site for Climbing Mt. Fuji (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Climbing Mt Fuji (English)
  • Fuji Mountain Guides – Recommended Gear (English)
  • Gary J Wolff Climbing Mt. Fuji FAQ (English)
  • Fujikyu Unjokaku (English) – Souvenir shop, restaurant, and lodging at Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station
• Lake Kawaguchi (河口湖, Kawaguchiko)
  • Kasuitei Ooya (English) – Ryokan where we stayed in Kawaguchiko
  • Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (English)
  • Tenjoyama Park (English) – at the top of Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway
  • Fuji Tempura Idaten (Japanese, English translation available)
  • Koshu Hoto Kosaku (Japanese)

Places

• Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal | Japan, 〒151-0051 Tokyo, Shibuya City, 千駄ヶ谷５丁目２４ 55
• Mt. Fuji Subaru Line – 5th Station | Japan, 〒401-0320 Yamanashi, Minamitsuru District, Narusawa, 富士山五合目
• Fuji San Hotel | Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi 403-0005, Japan
• Kawaguchiko Station | 3641 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Kasuitei Ooya | 4025 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine | 4213 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Koshu Houtou Kosaku | 1638-1 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan

Interactive Map

The post Exploring Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi appeared first on KTNPBlog.

In 2018, we enjoyed exploring the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park. But we wished we had been able to visit other areas of the park too. So, the following year, that’s what we did. After researching, we decided on a four day, three night backpacking trip through Salt Creek Canyon in the Needles District.

Salt Creek Trail has a lot of draws and is located in one of the more remote areas of the Needles District. There are reliable water sources, archeological ruins, history, arches, solitude, and more. The area can be hiked via multiple routes, and we decided to do a one-way shuttle hike. Overall, the route we chose was easy to moderate. We planned low mileage days so we could take our time and explore.

Our trip turned out amazing – we loved the history, scenery, and vibe of the area. It was exactly what we were looking for. Unfortunately, we ran into a couple issues along the way (primarily due to our own mistakes). But when backpacking, you have to be prepared for anything. So we rolled with them as best we could, and this post goes into detail, so hopefully it helps someone else. Get ready, this is a long one.

Planning – Route and Campsites

We started our route at the southern border of Canyonlands, at Cathedral Butte in Bears Ears National Monument. There are two options for hiking out – Cave Spring or the Needles Campground. Exiting at Cave Spring makes for a shorter route, but the final 3.5 miles is along a sandy wash. Hiking out at the Needles Campground would mean an additional 1.3 miles, but it affords more views along the slickrock. We decided to finish our trip at Cave Spring, making the total distance 28.2 miles.

Along the route are four designated campsites: SC1, SC2, SC3, and SC4. There’s no dispersed camping until reaching the Salt/Horse Zone (after 14.1 miles). So, for us, it was critical that we got the campsites that we wanted. We wanted SC1 -> SC3 -> Salt/Horse Zone permits. SC2 was our backup to SC1, while SC4 was our backup to SC3. SC1 and SC2 are adjacent, and we had read that SC1 was more private. SC3 was preferable to SC4 because there’s a lot to see between SC1/SC2 and SC3, and we wanted time to explore.

The trail begins at 7,074′ of elevation, and ends at 4,931′. The trail descends initially, and is fairly level for the rest of the trip. The longest day for us would be the last one (day 4), while the other days were fairly low mileage. We decided to hike it south to north, so we would descend, rather than ascend, about 2,000 feet of elevation. About half way along Salt Creek Trail is a side trail to Angel Arch, the largest sandstone arch within Canyonlands NP. So we tacked on an additional 3.2 miles round-trip to see it.

Planning – Permits and Regulations

We were able to reserve the sites online, but the reservation system has changed since then. Starting in 2020, Canyonlands uses recreation.gov, and future blocks of campsites are available on four specific dates throughout the year. For example, on November 10, 2020, the permits for March 10 through June 9, 2021 became available. This makes it easier to grab the sites for your entire trip. (To reserve our campsites, I had to wait until 2am EST, for 3 nights straight, when the permits became available.)

With our permits secured, our next step was booking a shuttle, since this was a one-way hike. We contacted Coyote Shuttle, headquartered in Moab. We reserved our shuttle well in advance, for $300 (the cost now is around $375). Expensive, but worth it, and they were responsive and professional.

Next, it was time to research specific points of interest. We bought books and scoured the internet. Along the trail are numerous ruins, cliff dwellings, pictographs, and artifacts that were created thousands of years ago by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan (also called Anasazi) Native Americans. People lived in the region for roughly 2,000 years, starting as hunter-gatherers, and eventually farming. By 1200 AD, large groups of people lived in what is now Canyonlands, and the society reached its peak. Around 1300 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans left the area and migrated south toward Arizona and New Mexico, possibly due to drought.

Big Ruins, the largest archaeological site in Canyonlands, evokes a sense of grandeur. There are at least 20 structures high on a ledge. The Ancestral Puebloans also lived in what is now Mesa Verde National Park, so they have similarities. There are also smaller features within Salt Creek Canyon that are just as worthwhile. Directions to these landmarks are not always public knowledge, but you can find information about them online or in books with enough time and effort. To protect them, we won’t provide the specific locations of these special places.

A couple important details that are specific to the area: First, there is a small population of black bears in Salt Creek Canyon. In late summer, the bears migrate down from the nearby Abajo Mountains, so bear canisters are required along Salt Creek Canyon from March 15 to November 30 (and highly recommended at other times). This was the first time we needed a canister, and we bought a BearVault BV500, which sufficed for four days with two people. Another important thing to know is that all human waste must be packed out when camping at designated campsites (which includes SC 1-4). When we visited, only toilet paper needed to be packed out, but this changed in 2020.

Day 0 – To Moab

It’s also vital to know that Beef Basin Road, which leads to our trailhead at Cathedral Butte, is a rough dirt road. We expected the weather to be sunny and dry like our first trip to the area. But it rained heavily just before our trip, and it turns out that the road gets muddy and can become impassable after a downpour…so we weren’t sure what Beef Basin Road had in store for us. Other than that, the weather looked nice for our trip in late March – mid 60s to low 70s during the day, and 40s at night.

When we arrived in Moab, we checked into Inca Inn before heading to Coyote Shuttle to pay for the trip. While there, we were told that there was the possibility of snow/ice on the trail. We decided to stop by a local shop and grab some cheap crampons. Fortunately, we didn’t end up needing them, but I’m glad we had them just in case.

Day 1 – To Cathedral Butte

The next day, we woke up early and drove to Canyonlands National Park, Needles District. On the way we stopped at a few places with scenic views or attractions like Newspaper Rock. Once we arrived at the Needles Visitor Center, we got our backcountry camping permits. Since we had reserved an at-large area (Salt/Horse), we were required to pick up our permits from the Visitor Center (so a ranger could give us brief instructions before the trip).

At the visitor center, we also changed our permit to exit at the Needles Campground rather than Cave Spring. We decided we preferred to hike on slickrock instead of the sandy path to Cave Spring. But, we ended up exiting at Cave Spring anyway… we’ll get to that later.

Around 9:45 a.m., we met our shuttle driver, Farland, at the visitor center. We followed her in our car to the Needles Campground, where we parked. Then, we hopped in the jeep for our bumpy ride. Farland was very friendly and engaging. She told us about her past career as a teacher (Kristin is also a teacher), as well as her experiences in the Moab area.

Beef Basin Road goes through Bears Ears National Monument, where Cathedral Butte is located. Initially, the ride wasn’t too bad. We zipped across the dirt road with towering redrock monoliths beside us, and through a large pool of water. The further we went, the worse shape the road was in, until it got pretty muddy. Farland and the jeep were able to handle it all, and we got to the Cathedral Butte trailhead without any issues. She dropped us off at 11:30 a.m., and we thanked her profusely.

The trailhead was at the top of a cliff surrounded by pinyon and juniper. Looking out over Salt Creek Canyon – at 7,074 feet of elevation – gave us a scenic view of where we were heading. It’s intimidating to suddenly be dropped in the middle of nowhere with no transportation, aside from walking. There was some lingering snow around the parking area, as well as one other very muddy truck with chains on its tires.

Day 1 – Cathedral Butte to SC1

Before starting our hike, we checked out the trailhead sign. We signed the register, and found an NPS map describing a challenging marshy section about 2.5 miles into the trail. We snapped a photo of it, just in case. Around noon, we started our descent into Salt Creek. After 4.3 miles, we would reach our campsite.

Over the next 1.5 miles, we descended almost 1000 feet. It wasn’t hard, but the trail was steep and eroded in places. We were glad we were going down and not up! The weather was cool, but we quickly peeled off layers as we moved. There was a bit of scattered snow, but none on the trail. As we got lower, we started seeing cryptobiotic soil – which we made sure to avoid. The views were incredible, and we enjoyed looking back at Cathedral Butte, to see where we had come from.

Eventually, the route descended into a flat area with sagebrush, and then the sandy “bottom” of Upper Salt Creek Canyon. From there, we left Bears Ears National Monument and entered Canyonlands National Park. The vegetation around us started to change again until we were surrounded by tamarisk, rabbitbrush, willows, and other brush and grasses. We went through this section until we came to the marsh mentioned on the map at the trailhead, full of tall scouring reeds.

Initially, the path was easy to follow through the towering reeds. We crossed small streams that flowed through. While the park does have pink ribbons tied around reeds as markers to follow, they were difficult to find. The further in we went, the harder it was to navigate. We had read that hikers should bear right along the path toward the east side of the marsh, and we were able to figure our way through. But I can see the benefit of having the map (from the trailhead) just in case.

We brought binoculars so we could see some of the ruins and cliff dwellings that were further away. The marshy section was where (we think) we got our first glimpse of some granaries high up on a cliff along the east side of the trail.

Eventually, the trail follows a sandstone cliff to the east (our right). The trail is very clear here, and runs right past the first pictograph panel we saw. The panel has four handprints, as well as a small humanoid figure. We couldn’t help stretching out our hands and comparing them to the ones on the wall (without touching them). We wondered who created them and why. How long ago? Interesting thoughts and theories flooded our minds as we speculated.

Shortly after the pictograph is the first reliable water source – Kirk Spring. Water cascades down a sandstone slope and lands in a large pond. It’s very picturesque, but we didn’t linger too long. It’s close enough to our campsite that we would come back to filter later. 150 yards beyond the water source, we encountered the next historical treasure: Kirk’s Cabin.

A small hewn log cabin sits just next to the trail. Built in the 1890s by Renssalaer Lee Kirk, the cabin has stood for over 125 years. Kirk ranched there until 1905, when he abandoned the area because he couldn’t make a living. Scattered around the cabin are remnants of the ranching days: a corral, fences, even an old wagon. The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.

The cabin is open to visitors, so we went in and explored. Small trinkets (and unfortunately, trash left by other hikers) were strewn about. While the cabin is in decent shape considering its age, I imagine it’s seen better days. It’s hard to imagine living here; I’m sure it was a lonely experience.

Just past Kirk’s Cabin is a small trail to the right that leads to two campsites: SC1 and SC2. We were staying at SC1, so we headed back on the spur, where it split to each individual campsite. We assumed SC2 was booked, but we didn’t see anyone else. Our campsite was large, quiet, and private. We set up our camp, ate dinner, and headed to bed.

Day 2 – SC1 to Big Pocket

The next morning we woke up refreshed and excited for the day. There are so many things to see on the next stretch of trail: the All American Man, Four Faces, Squash Patch, Big Ruins, Ring Arch, and numerous other points of interest. We only planned to hike five miles, so we could focus on exploring. But first, we needed to filter some water…which became more of an issue than we anticipated.

On the way out of the campsite, we spotted Kirk Arch across the canyon. It’s difficult to see because there is another rock face behind the opening. We had missed it the day before, but once you know where it is, you can’t miss it. We headed left on Salt Creek Trail, passed Kirk’s Cabin, and backtracked to the pond.

Our water filter of choice is a Sawyer Squeeze. While we’ve used other systems in the past, we’ve found it to have the best balance of utility, weight, and ease of use. We filled up our water pouches at Kirk Spring, attached them to the filter, and squeezed – water should come out the other side into our bottles. But nothing came out. Not worried yet, we backwashed the filter. It still didn’t work. Insert expletive here.

Before our trip, we had picked up supplies at the REI in Grand Junction, Colorado. On a whim we also bought some water purification tablets. We’d never carried or used them before, but we were glad we had them. Without the tablets, we would have needed to boil water, taking away our precious fuel. And we hadn’t even seen another hiker at this point, so borrowing wasn’t an option.

We brought a limited number of tablets, so we had to conserve them as much as possible. Part of that meant allowing the water to warm to “room temperature” before we added the tablets, and calculating how much water to put into each container (we used hydration bladders, which made it easier). And, two new takeaways from the trip: first, test our water filter before leaving, and second, bring purification tablets as a backup.

After figuring out the water situation, we headed north past Kirk’s Cabin, then past the wooden fence built by Kirk himself. The fences are fairly intricate, even though barbed wire was available at the time. About a third of a mile later, we came to our first easily accessible ruins – two small granaries tucked in an alcove – not far from the trail. It’s special to be able to get up close (but not too close) to the ruins. Back on the main trail, we spotted another unnamed arch across the canyon to the west. It’s scenic, yet inaccessible. Sometimes this is also referred to as Kirk Arch.

As we continued on the trail, we spotted signs of wildlife. On the path was hairy scat, most likely from coyotes which frequent the area. Also on this stretch, we saw the most peculiar insects – red and yellow colored hairy ants. They lived in holes on the trail. We later learned that they’re called velvet ants, but are actually a type of wasp! They can sting, but thankfully aren’t aggressive.

Soon after, we came upon the Big Pocket area to our right (east) where we spotted a Great Basin gopher snake in the brush. They aren’t poisonous, but we didn’t know that at the time, so we stayed well away. We knew there were additional ruins in the Big Pocket Area, but we continued on the main trail since there was so much to explore.

Day 2 – Big Ruins, Wedding Ring Arch, Squash Granary

Looking west, we saw Big Ruins about 0.4 miles from the trail. If you know where to look, the ruins are easy to find. Located on a cliff, it’s the largest collection of Ancestral Puebloan Ruins in Canyonlands. This site was one reason I wanted to hike Salt Creek. Most ruins are tucked into a ledge about 70 feet off the ground. To get closer to the ruins, we found a social spur trail immediately after a large diamond shaped rock. As we approached, the ruins slowly came into focus. Black soot covered the ceiling of the ledges, remnants of fires from over 700 years ago.

At our feet were numerous pottery pieces, so many that we had to make sure we didn’t step on any. Previous visitors had placed most of them on rocks to help protect them. The pieces have various patterns and colors, and we promptly tried to find our favorite designs. As always, leave no trace and do not remove any artifacts from the site.

Metate and mano – tools that were used to grind corn – are also in this area. So logically, there were dried corncobs there too. Could these be over 700 years old? At the bottom of the sandstone cliffs are granary ruins, where corn was likely stored so long ago. On the higher ledge with the structures, we spotted more handprints. There’s no way to get to the ledge, so they’re protected. The Ancestral Puebloans likely used ladders, which have long since disappeared, to access the structures. Big Ruins are awe-inspiring and they lived up to my expectations.

After exploring for as long as we could, we returned to the main trail. Far in the distance we saw a peculiar shape – Fisheye Arch. Another nearby arch (which isn’t as visible), is also sometimes referred to as Fisheye Arch. Shortly after, we went about 600 feet off the main trail to check out Wedding Ring Arch.

As we were heading to Wedding Ring Arch, we met the first person we’d seen since starting the trail. We were surprised to learn that he was a day hiker, but we weren’t sure where he started from. He had been looking for the All American Man pictograph. While we didn’t know exactly where it was, we knew it was to the north, so we mentioned that. But he was running out of time, and headed south. If he couldn’t find the pictograph, we started to worry that we wouldn’t be able to either.

Wedding Ring Arch is almost a perfect circle, if you look from the right angle. It’s large, about 200 feet high and 150 feet wide. Like Fisheye Arch, another Wedding Ring Arch is located before Kirk’s Cabin on some maps. But this one looks more like a ring than that one. Once we got some photos, we headed back to the main trail. The path goes through some wide open sagebrush areas, through reeds, and then back into sagebrush. Well worn hiker-made trails weave their way from Salt Creek Trail to our next destination – the Squash Plant Ruins.

Three granary ruins sit below an alcove. There are many granaries in Salt Creek, but what makes these unique is the squash plants growing in front of them. They likely grew from seeds originally planted by the Puebloans over 700 years ago! As far as we know, this is the only area in Salt Creek that has squash plants.

We were lucky to spot an old squash from the previous year, now hollow. How cool is that? Seeing it helped us imagine what it would have been like to live there long ago. More handprints above the granaries round out this special area.

Day 2 – All American Man, Four Faces, SC3

There was still more to see in this section of Salt Creek. Next were two of the most iconic pictographs: the All American Man and Four Faces. But first, we spotted a few ruins high up in a crack on a sandstone cliff. It’s mind-blowing to ponder how they might have been built. Shortly after, we came to the well-known All American Man basically right next to the trail. It’s located in a crevice in the wall, about 10 to 15 feet above the ground, with some ruins behind it. Below we found a canister with a hiker log, which we signed.

The All American Man is aptly named – a six-foot tall round figure, decked out in red, white, and blue, along with a narrow head and strange antennae. There is even what appears to be an American flag (but of course, it isn’t) near the figure’s “waist.” It’s vivid and spectacular. The blue color is actually gray, but it appears blue in the dim light and among the surrounding red sandstone. At some point, a visitor outlined the pictograph with white chalk – a practice that has damaged many petroglyphs and pictographs. Please treat all ruins with respect, and follow leave no trace.

The trail briefly veers to the west after the All American Man and goes through a crack in the sandstone. While it was probably unnecessary for the trail to go this way, it does make for an interesting scramble. Afterward, we made our way through dense reeds and other thick vegetation. About 30 minutes past the All American Man, we arrived at some ruins and the next pictograph – the Four Faces.

Most of the ruins in Canyonlands are from the Ancestral Puebloan culture, but Four Faces was created by the Fremont people. The two groups are distinct, and they overlapped in the area. The Four Faces is well preserved, considering it’s over 700 years old. The red colors are vivid, and it looks like it could have been painted yesterday. There are other “face” pictographs in Canyonlands, but most are in poorer condition. One of the nearby ruins was likely a kiln or hearth, as it’s blackened with soot inside.

Four Faces Spring, which would be our next water source, is located near the pictograph. The spring is also only a short walk from SC3 campsite. There, we met the second person that we’d seen so far. He was doing a through hike on The Hayduke Trail, which goes from Arches National Park through much of Southern Utah, then into Northern Arizona before ending in Zion National Park. An alternate route goes through Salt Creek. As we talked, we started feeling a bit uncomfortable with some things he was discussing. Then, he asked to stay in our campsite, and we realized that he likely did not have any permits. We’re usually pretty flexible, but due to some odd vibes we declined.

Continuing, we crossed Salt Creek and walked another 0.2 miles to reach SC3, our campsite for the night. The site is nice and big, and more open than SC1. Once we set up camp, I headed back to Four Faces Spring to get some water.

I peered into the pond and was surprised to see some large salamanders. These were Tiger Salamanders, the only species of salamander in the park. As I was taking this in, a small bat flew over the surface of the pond looking for insects. There’s so much wildlife here! I only had my cell phone on me on, so the pictures aren’t great. I headed back to camp for dinner. I tried out a GOOD TO-GO Bibimbap meal – it was not very good, which was disappointing since we’ve liked the brand’s other meals.

Day 3 – SC3 to Angel Arch Camp

We started early on day 3. Our plan was to hike 5.3 miles to a dispersed campsite, then head down a side trail to check out Angel Arch. The hike started out in sagebrush and led us to some geometric rock art, before reaching Upper Jump. This is a small waterfall, and would be a good place to get water if we had needed it. The creek bed then drops about 25 feet, and the trail gets greener, wetter, and narrower. We soon found ourselves surrounded by rabbitbrush, willows, and other vegetation. It was a welcome change.

For the next 2.3 miles or so after Upper Jump, we saw lots of trees and crossed numerous streams. The National Park Service has constructed simple wooden bridges across most of the streams. Cottonwood leaves crunched under our feet. Eventually, the trail rose above Salt Creek Canyon. We spotted rock art known as the Paper Dolls, since it looks like a string of figures holding hands. Shortly after, the trail took us back down into the canyon.

We neared the SC4 campsite and decided to check it out and take a short break. It’s a nice large site, with plenty of shade, privacy, and logs to sit on (always important!). Past SC4, the trail becomes harder to navigate, but it follows Salt Creek (more or less) as it winds its way north. About an hour and a half after SC4, we arrived at the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Angel Arch would have to wait, as we wanted to set up camp first.

After this intersection, the trail crosses into the Salt/Horse backpacking zone. This area allows for dispersed camping (best practice is to select a previously established site). We continued north on Salt Creek Trail, and in 0.2 miles we reached the area where we would camp. Formerly known as Angel Arch Camp, it’s an open area that features large cottonwood trees…or at least it did until a wildfire in 2016. According to some forums, the fire may have been caused by humans, but I never found a reliable source. It’s still a nice area to camp, but I imagine it used to be even better with the shade and privacy of the trees. As a reminder, campfires are not permitted in the backcountry.

– A brief historical interlude –

Incredibly, Salt Creek Trail north of the Angel Arch intersection, as well as the trail to Angel Arch, used to be open to motor vehicles. In 1998, the trail was closed by the NPS to protect the habitat and archaeological resources. After years of litigation, the trail has remained closed. It’s almost unthinkable for vehicles to drive through a riparian area which is so important to the delicate ecosystem.

While I’m glad 4WD vehicles are no longer in this part of Salt Creek, we found signs of past use, like scratches on rocks and abnormally wide trails. That said, the area has recovered quite well. Wildlife, like black bears, has started to repopulate the area (mainly in a late-summer migration from the Abajo Mountains). Some vehicle tracks have been overgrown with vegetation. Salt Creek itself has began to run clear, and riparian vegetation has increased.

Day 3 – Angel Arch Trail

After setting up our campsite, we headed back south to the Angel Arch Trail intersection. The trail goes 1.6 miles before reaching the arch. Initially, it was easy to follow, and we found some ruins and pictographs on a nearby cliff. The further we went, the wetter and more difficult to navigate it became.

Curiously, some maps have this trail incorrectly labeled as “Abbey’s Triple Arch Trail,” assumedly dedicated to Edward Abbey. Abbey’s Triple Arch is actually located in The Maze district.

Eventually we spotted Angel Arch. Morning lighting would have been better, since the sun is behind the arch in the afternoon, but this was the only time we’d have to see the arch. Cairns guided us up slickrock, to a rock formation known as “the molar.” It supposedly resembles a tooth, though it looked more like a heart to us.

Behind the molar stands Angel Arch. Its size, unique shape, and remoteness make it impressive. Originally, the formation was named Pegasus Arch until 1963, when it was officially named Angel Arch. There is supposedly a cairned 1.5 mile (round trip) trail that leads to the base of the arch, but we didn’t have the time or energy to do it. Thankfully the sky was a bit cloudy, which helped us get some decent photos.

We had brought our cooking gear with us, so we made dinner and ate while enjoying a view of the arch. It’s a great memory – just the two of us, relaxing and enjoying the beautiful scenery. Next, we headed back the way we came until we reached our campsite. We fell asleep to the gentle, and thankfully brief, rain that fell on our tent.

Day 4 – Angel Arch Camp to Peekaboo

The next morning we woke up to slightly damp ground. It felt cold and dreary initially, but the weather warmed up as the day went on. For the most part, the trail followed Salt Creek, which had places where we could have filtered water if we needed it. The trail opened up into wide, flat sandstone, which was beautiful and fun to hike. The Salt/Horse Zone allows for dispersed camping, and we stumbled upon a few established campsites (see Google Map below). About 1.1 miles beyond Angel Arch Camp, the trail passes right by Crescent Arch, high in the sandstone.

This was also the section where we started running into more people, since it’s possible to day hike here from the Needles Campground. First, we ran into some backpackers who were heading south. As we talked, we learned they were from the DC area too. They had a wide range of campsite permits that had taken them from Lost Canyon into Salt Creek. They mentioned that Peekaboo Trail was particularly scary. We didn’t think anything of the warning at the time, but knew we would be on that trail shortly.

One of the last major pictographs along the trail, the Flying Carpet Panel, is shortly before Peekaboo Arch. We managed to find a spur trail that led to the panel. Unlike earlier pictographs such as the All American Man or Four Faces, this panel is Barrier Canyon style. Another example of this style is The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon. The Flying Carpet Panel features several figures of varying sizes, and neat red handprints. It’s an impressive collection of pictographs.

After hiking about 6.5 miles from Angel Arch Camp, we reached Peekaboo Arch. It’s very unique and looks almost like it was punched out of a fin. The trail goes right through the arch. Formerly, it looped around the entire fin, but that’s no longer the “official” trail. Which is nice, since going through saves about half a mile.

We hiked up the slickrock and passed through the arch. We turned immediately left to admire a well known pictograph next to the opening of the arch. It was created by the Fremont Native Americans. If you look closely, you can see that it was painted over faint red artwork that is even older. Handprints are also nearby. There were a few people here, which was unsurprising since the area is accessible from the Needles Campground.

Looking down, we spotted Peekaboo Camp, a designated campsite. The 4WD road to Peekaboo Camp is only open a few weeks throughout the year based on weather and driving conditions, but we didn’t see any cars nearby, and no one seemed to be camping at Peekaboo that day. We had read about the nearby Peekaboo Spring but weren’t able to find it, but there did seem to be pools of water right before the arch.

Day 4 – Peekaboo Trail

After this point, Salt Creek Road heads north to Cave Spring Trailhead, where we originally planned to end our hike. When we picked up our permit, we had switched our point of exit to the Needles Campground (previously known as Squaw Flat Campground), since we thought hiking on slickrock would be preferable to sand. So instead of heading north, we hiked west from Peekaboo Campsite, onto Peekaboo Trail. The trail ascends onto benches – areas with vertical rock both above and below. The 4.7 mile trail is primarily on slickrock until you reach the campground.

Our first obstacle was a ladder in a crack between fins. Climbing it was a lot of fun, even though our backpacks were a tight fit. Once on top, we spotted a small ruin nearby. As we followed the cairns along the slickrock, the views became more and more impressive. We scrambled up to the benches and ledges above the canyon. At one point, we climbed through a small window in the sandstone.

We continued until we got to an area that seemed sketchy, and recalled the backpackers who told us about this earlier in the day. The narrow, sloped sandstone goes for about 10-15 feet, and has a sheer drop-off. As I started to go across it, my foot slipped. I caught myself and backed up. By this point we were looking around, trying to figure out if this was even the right spot, and were a bit freaked out.

We decided not to risk it and backtracked out of Peekaboo Trail. Our only other option was to hike out to Cave Spring. The trail to Cave Spring is shorter than the hike to the Needles Campground – but our car was parked in the campground. We would need to walk an additional 3.6 miles along the road to reach our car.

Looking at photos of Peekaboo Trail, that narrow area doesn’t look so bad. But I still think we made the right choice for our safety. When hiking and backpacking, it’s vital to trust your instincts and know your limits. Online, it looks like other hikers get past that section just fine, though some blogs mention that it’s scary (a chain or bar would help). Someday, we intend to go back and take another look.

Day 4 – Peekaboo to Cave Spring Trailhead

We headed back toward Peekaboo Campground, our emotions still running pretty high. It was going to be a very long day, so we had to move at a good pace. From there, we went north on Salt Creek Road. It’s flat and obviously used by vehicles. It’s also a huge pain to hike because it’s covered in sand.

I tried to keep a steady pace ahead of Kristin to keep us going. Eventually I tired out, and she took over the lead. The setting sun blazed into our eyes as we tried to find areas with firmer ground. There’s nothing special about the road, but we were more focused on getting out of there than sight-seeing. After 3.4 miles (which seemed like an eternity) we reached the Cave Spring Trailhead.

From there, we hiked an additional 3.6 miles to the campground along a paved road. Once we got back to our car, we were exhausted and it was late. We had hiked around 16 miles that day. We drove back to Moab, grabbed some fast food (from the golden arches), and crashed at our hotel for the night.

The End?

Overall, the trip was an amazing adventure (in spite of our issues with the water filter and Peekaboo Trail). It was one of my favorite trips we’ve ever done, particularly because of the archaeological features. Pictographs like the All American Man and Four Faces are iconic sites that are forever burned into my memory. It was worth all the time it took to plan the route, campsites, and shuttle.

We wish Peekaboo Trail had worked out for us. It’s far more scenic than Salt Creek Road to Cave Spring. The parts of Peekaboo we hiked provided sweeping views, and it was very different compared with the first three days of our trip. If you’re feeling brave, I recommend exiting at the Needles Campground. If you want to play it safe, exit at Cave Spring. A compromise could include a short hike to Peekaboo Trail to see the views and sandstone rims, then exit at Cave Spring.

There’s still more to see in Salt Creek (and the rest of the Needles district). Salt Creek has many side canyons, arches, and other geological features. There are more ruins, pictographs, and petroglyphs out there to find. Someday we plan to go back and explore even more. Until then, I hope this special place stays protected for everyone that visits in the future.

Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (Cathedral Butte to Cave Spring)

Date: Sunday, April 14, 2019 – Wednesday, April 17, 2019
Type: 3-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 28.2 miles (45.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +1093 feet (333 m), -3240 feet (988 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 142 feet (43 m) gain, 1301 feet (397 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC1
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 289 feet (88 m) gain, 555 feet (169 m) loss
  • Time: 8 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC3
• Day 3:
  • Distance: 8.9 miles (14.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 494 feet (151 m) gain, 770 feet (235 m) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring (not including the hour we spent at Angel Arch)
  • Overnight: Salt/Horse Zone (Angel Arch Camp)
• Day 4 (assumes exiting at Cave Spring):
  • Distance: 9.9 miles (15.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 168 feet (51 m) gain, 614 feet (187 m) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring

Trail Markings: Cairns, pink ribbons through the marshy area on the first day
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, small waterfalls, ponds
Highlights: Views, archaeological sites, wildlife, history, waterfalls, geological features
Directions to Cathedral Butte Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: Alternately, you could go the opposite direction, but we highly recommend south to north.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Cathedral Butte Trailhead, go north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 3.9 mi – Pass Kirk Spring on the left, a reliable water source.
• 4.0 mi – Pass Kirk’s Cabin on the right.
• 4.1 mi – Turn right onto the spur to SC1 and SC2. The spur then splits to each individual campsite.
• 4.3 mi – Arrive at SC1/SC2. In the morning, retrace your steps back to Salt Creek Trail.
• 4.4 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail, heading north.
• 6.3 mi – Wedding Ring Arch is nearby. Find a social trail that avoids cryptobiotic soil if you’d like to get closer.
• 8.2 mi – The trail passes close by the All American Man Pictograph.
• 8.8 mi – Cross over Salt Creek, and Four Faces Spring, another great place for water. Right before the spring is the Four Faces Pictograph and ruins.
• 9.4 mi – A small spur trail leads to the SC3 campsite. Stay the night, then continue north on Salt Creek Trail in the morning.
• 12.5 mi – Pass by the spur trail to the SC4 campsite.
• 14.4 mi – You’ve reached the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 14.6 mi – Reach Angel Arch Camp. You can set up your tent here, or wherever you prefer since this is part of the Salt/Horse Dispersed Camping Zone. Just remember, the best site is found, not created. After setting up camp, head back south to the Angel Arch intersection.
• 14.9 mi – Turn left onto Angel Arch Trail.
• 16.5 mi – You’ve arrived at the Molar and Angel Arch. Enjoy! If desired, take the social trail (some scrambling required) to the base of the arch. Head back along Angel Arch Trail when ready.
• 18.1 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail.
• 18.3 mi – Arrive back at your campsite. In the morning, continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 24.8 mi – You’ve arrived at Peekaboo Arch. Continue on the trail, and go through the arch in the fin. Peekaboo Camp, as well as some petroglyphs, are on the other side. Hike through the camp, and continue north on Salt Creek Road.
• 28.2 mi – Salt Creek Road ends at Cave Spring Trailhead, where hopefully you have a car waiting for you. You’re done!

Places

• Cathedral Butte | 37.952721, -109.698471
• Cave Spring | 38.149672, -109.755018
• The Needles Campground | 38.149594, -109.792086
• Kirk Spring | 37.983303, -109.745977
• Kirk Cabin | 37.985556, -109.743722
• SC1 Campsite | 37.98435, -109.74228
• SC2 Campsite | 37.98604, -109.74163
• Wedding Ring Arch | 38.01104, -109.74082
• Four Faces Spring | 38.03934, -109.76152
• SC3 Campsite | 38.03909, -109.76403
• Upper Jump | 38.043318, -109.764622
• SC4 Campsite | 38.055420, -109.770040
• Angel Arch Camp | 38.069867, -109.766616
• Angel Arch | 38.05203, -109.75681
• Peekaboo Camp | 38.114878, -109.754435

Maps

• Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (KTNP)
• The Needles District (NPS)
• The Needles Backcountry Zone Map (NPS)

Links

• NPS
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Permits (recreation.gov)
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Regulations (NPS)
  • Salt Creek Archaeology (NPS)
  • American Indians in Canyonlands (NPS)
• History of Trail
  • NPS Action and History on Salt Creek Canyon Road in 2004 (federalregister.gov)
  • NPS Environmental Assessment : Middle Salt Creek Canyon Access Plan from 2002 (Utah State University)

Planning Resources

• Salt Creek Canyon Trail (UtahTrails)
• Coyote Shuttle
• Books
  • Canyonlands National Park Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails by David Day
  • Hiking, Biking and Exploring Canyonlands National Park and Vicinity by Michael Kelsey

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Our last hike in Canyonlands National Park would be one to remember. We only had the morning, since we planned to drive to Grand Junction, CO that afternoon. Our trail was a 1.6 mile out and back to False Kiva, an archaeological site tucked away in an alcove. It turned out to be our favorite hike (so far) in the Island in the Sky District.

A kiva is a large, circular, underground room. They were used by the Puebloans, the native people of that region, for religious purposes. The round structure found at the end of this hike is not a true kiva, since there is no underground area. There is some uncertainty surrounding its exact origins and intended purpose. True kivas can be seen at Mesa Verde National Park or Bandelier National Monument.

We hesitated to write a post about False Kiva because it is a Class II archaeological site. The trail does not appear on park maps in order to limit access, since the site is more vulnerable to visitor impacts. Interestingly, it used to be on AllTrails, but was removed in 2021. However, if you ask a Park Ranger, they’ll tell you how to find the trail.

We visited in March 2018 (yes, we are slow at blogging – good thing we took copious notes). Back then, the site was fully explorable. But in August of 2018, the alcove site was vandalized and closed indefinitely. You can still hike the trail, but a chain blocks entry into the alcove itself. The “kiva” is now inaccessible, but you can see it from a distance. The vandalism is very unfortunate, especially given how much we enjoyed the trail and archeological site.

The Trail

It takes some effort to find the trailhead. Asking a park ranger is the easiest and safest way. When we stopped to ask about the trail at Island in the Sky Visitor Center, the ranger brought out a laminated sheet with information on the location and points of interest along the trail.

From the visitor center, we drove west toward Upheaval Dome. Our parking was a small pull-off with just enough space. From there, we crossed the road and headed south. Some juniper logs were lined up along the edge, near a bend in the road. Behind the logs, a well worn trail begins.

We didn’t see anyone else heading onto the trail, but near the start we did meet a group that was coming back from the kiva. So we knew we were on the right track. While the trail isn’t heavily travelled, it was easy for us to follow. Initially, it goes through an area with various shrubs, like blackbrush, and juniper in the distance. Far out, we could see into a canyon called Upper West Basin, and beyond. A prominent rock formation stood ahead of us – I never figured out its name.

The dirt trail beat its way through the desert. Eventually, we started following cairns that guided us through the rocky sections. Along the way, we spotted a few lizards, which we always enjoy seeing. Before long, we reached the edge of the rim and looked out across the canyon. It was a gorgeous view, with Candlestick Tower on our left. The unknown rock formation we had seen earlier was on our right.

The trail started descending down a rocky slope. Based on the photo the park ranger had shown us, we knew we were getting close to the kiva. Looking around, we kept trying to find the alcove in advance. It’s surprisingly well hidden. Once we reached the bottom of the slope, the trail wound its way across a narrow rocky shelf. Eventually, the trail curved sharply to the right, almost doubling back on itself. This brought us closer to the large rock wall that had been to our right since we had descended. We had views out into the canyons the whole way.

False Kiva

Suddenly, after scrambling up a small sandstone incline, we were there! Thankfully, we had the place to ourselves. We had only passed one other group on the way, and it was so peaceful and quiet. We took photos and enjoyed the gorgeous scenery.

The area is known for a famous view of the Kiva in the foreground, and the canyons in the background. Lighting for photography was just okay in the morning; afternoon lighting would probably be better. But we’re glad we got to see it while we could. With the kiva alcove being indefinitely closed to visitors, this view is no longer possible.

Admiring the carefully stacked stones of the kiva, we speculated on its history. It would have been great to learn more about the people who created it and what the site was used for. A small area, which contained some archeological digging, was roped off. A green ammo box held some information, as well as a visitor log. Flipping through it, we saw the breadth of people who had visited from all over the world. We added our names to the list.

Eventually, other hikers arrived, and we deemed it best to let them enjoy the site in peace. So we headed back the way we came. Overall, the trail is moderate, but the ascent up the rocky slope was the most difficult part for us. At the trailhead, we met a third group that was heading for the kiva.

False Kiva is a beautiful and special place, and we’re saddened that we may not be able to visit again. But, even if you can’t get as close to the kiva, it’s still a worthwhile experience. If you visit, please treat it with respect, follow all signs and restrictions, and enjoy this remarkable place.

False Kiva Trail

Date: Friday, March 30, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 715 feet (218 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including spending about 30 minutes at False Kiva
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and an obvious social trail. Even though this is not a maintained trail, it’s easy to follow.
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins, Off the beaten path
Directions to Trailhead: Ask a park ranger
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Links

• False Kiva (Wikipedia)
• Candlestick Tower (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

The post False Kiva Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

One trail we wanted to hike in Canyonlands National Park was the Syncline Loop. It’s an 8.3 mile route that surrounds Upheaval Dome in the Island in the Sky District. The trail is long and difficult, so unfortunately we didn’t have the time to do the hike. Instead, we decided to do Upheaval Dome Trail, a short 1.6 mile out and back hike. The path goes to two overlooks with views of Upheaval Dome. We hoped it would give us a glimpse of what the Syncline Loop would offer.

What is Upheaval Dome? I’m glad you asked. It’s an area roughly three miles across where the rock layers are deformed. In the center, the rocks are pushed up into a dome-like structure (an anticline). A downward fold in the rock (or syncline) surrounds the dome. What caused it? No one is quite sure, but there are two prevailing theories. The first is that it is an impact crater caused by a meteorite hitting the Earth. The second is that it’s a salt dome, where salt flows while under pressure and creates deformities in the surrounding rock over millions of years. Most recent research supports the impact crater hypothesis.

First Overlook

After checking out Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte, we drove to the end of Upheaval Dome Road. We parked in the lot for Upheaval Dome and the Syncline Loop. The trail begins on the west side of the lot. After starting the hike, we came to an intersection with Syncline Loop Trail almost immediately. It would have to wait for another time, so we kept going straight on Upheaval Dome Trail.

The trail started to ascend. The first overlook is only 0.3 miles from the intersection, so it took no time at all to get there. Situated on a large sandstone rock face, the first overlook gave us an initial view of the dome.

Greenish rocks surround a red rock formation inside the crater. We later talked to a ranger who said the green color was caused by iron, while the red is due to oxidation (rust). It looks otherworldly, but also familiar. A nearby sign gives some geological information about Upheaval Dome. Even though there are only two official “overlooks,” there are plenty of other opportunities for views into Upheaval Dome.

Second Overlook

Following rock cairns along the trail, we ascended and descended over more sandstone. The second overlook is only half a mile from the first. In places, small steps had been cut into some sandstone to assist hikers. We admonished a small boy who was rolling rocks down the sandstone. Normally, we might not say anything, but…it seemed pretty dangerous.

Surrounded by metal fencing, the second overlook was much like the first. It didn’t offer a radically different view. So if time is short, you could skip the second overlook. Nearby I found some spring wildflowers, including Indian paintbrush, which I was more interested in.

While I’m glad we did Upheaval Dome, I wasn’t particularly impressed with the hike overall. It was very cool to see the dome initially, but the hike got kind of same-y after the first overlook. The views are interesting, and I did enjoy the geology and mystery of its formation. Even though I wasn’t wowed by this trail, I’d still like to go back to do the Syncline Loop someday…maybe as a one-night backpacking trip!

Upheaval Dome Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 462 feet (141 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: Moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History
Directions to Upheaval Dome Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head north toward the Upheaval Dome Trailhead. Start on the trail, and after 250 feet, continue straight at the intersection with the Syncline Trail to continue on the Upheaval Dome Trail.
• 0.3 mi – A short (~180 feet) side trail to the right leads to the first overlook. After checking it out, head back the way you came and turn right to continue.
• 0.9 mi – At the end of the trail is the second overlook. When ready, turn around and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – The hike is finished!

Places

• Upheaval Dome | 38.437492, -109.928600
• First Overlook | 38.428919, -109.929169
• Second Overlook | 38.431669, -109.935347

Maps

• Upheaval Dome Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Upheaval Dome (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Upheaval Dome Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

A butte is a striking rock formation, defined as an isolated steep hill with often vertical sides and a flat top. It was time for us to hike to one in Canyonlands National Park. Aztec Butte is a 1.6-mile out and back that leads to the top of a butte, with a side trail to see some Puebloan ruins. We were particularly looking forward to the archeological features of the area. The drive to the Aztec Butte trailhead was only about a mile from Mesa Arch Trail, which we had just hiked.

The parking lot was fairly empty, especially compared to Mesa Arch, so we anticipated more solitude. The trail is rocky at the start, before giving way to a sandy path. After a short 0.3 miles, we reached the first intersection. Taking a right would lead us directly to Aztec Butte, but we turned left toward the Puebloan granary ruins on a separate, smaller butte. The trail took us up some slickrock, and gave us a view into Taylor Canyon in the distance. Rock cairns guided us to the granaries, which are sheltered by a rock ledge.

Alongside the ruins are some informative park signs. We learned that Ancestral Puebloans stored pots and baskets containing food, water, and seeds to be protected in the granary. We explored and took some photos. Built between 1200 and 1300 AD, the two granaries we saw seem to be well preserved. On a side note, please remember not to touch or enter them.

After checking out the granaries, we retraced our steps and continued on the main trail. At the base of Aztec Butte, we were greeted by a steep 200 foot ascent. The sandstone is beautiful, with striations in shades of red, white, and brown. It was totally exposed to the sun as we climbed, but it’s a short and enjoyable route with some scenic views.

A vaguely defined trail loops around the top of Aztec Butte. Along the loop are other structures. Some might be authentic, but others may have been constructed more recently – we didn’t see any signs at the top to explain the history, though. For example, a four-walled stone structure sits at the southeast corner of the butte.

There are other ruins scattered around the butte, but some are harder to find than others. We didn’t know it at the time, but there are granaries just below the west ridge of the butte. After exploring more, we headed back the way we came. We pondered why the site is called Aztec Butte, and thought it might be a misnomer, but we haven’t been able find a source explaining its name.

Both Aztec Butte and Mesa Arch are fun hikes with sweeping views, though they are very different. We preferred Aztec Butte Trail since it’s a longer hike with fewer crowds and a rich history. And as a bonus, we kept joking about how “butte-iful” the area is.

Aztec Butte Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 283 feet (86 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: A few other groups
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head east on Aztec Butte Trail.
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection, turn left toward the Puebloan Granaries.
• 0.4 mi – Arrive at the granaries. Explore, then head back the way you came.
• 0.6 mi – Back at the intersection, turn left toward Aztec Butte. You’ll ascend about 190 feet to the top.
• 0.8 mi – Arrive at the top of Aztec Butte. Head either way on the vaguely defined loop trail.
• 1.0 mi – Back at the start of the loop. Go back the way you came to descend.
• 1.3 mi – At the intersection with the granaries, go straight back toward the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Aztec Butte | 38.397298, -109.874844

Maps

• Aztec Butte Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Aztec Butte Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Aztec Butte Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

When I think of Arches National Park, the iconic Delicate Arch immediately comes to mind. It’s the largest freestanding arch in the park. Images of it are everywhere – on tourism literature, Utah license plates, and more. And it was finally time for us to visit it. Frank Beckwith, the leader of a scientific expedition in the area between 1933–1934 is credited with naming the arch. And it is delicate. Some day Delicate Arch, formed by erosion of a sandstone fin, will fall.

The main 3.2 mile round-trip trail to the famous arch is, not surprisingly, very crowded. We went in the afternoon, but if you go very early in the morning or later in the evening, you may avoid some of the crowds. Besides Delicate Arch, there are nearby petroglyphs and the defunct Wolfe Ranch. Two additional trails to a lower and higher viewpoint are also nearby. They’re both easy hikes, so we decided to check them out first.

Lower and Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoints

The parking lot for the Upper and Lower Viewpoint Trails is a mile east of Delicate Arch Trail. The trail splits at the start, and we headed right to the lower viewpoint. The lower trail is only 0.1 mile. It’s an ADA trail, so it’s an easy hike on level terrain. However, the view isn’t that impressive since the arch is so far away, but if you don’t hike the main trail at least there’s this option. After checking that out, we went back to the split and headed onto the Upper Viewpoint Trail.

Getting to the upper viewpoint requires a 10-15 minute uphill climb with minimal scrambling. The trail is only 0.6 miles round-trip. It’s cool to get another glimpse of the arch, but again, not that impressive from this far away. It’s impossible to get to Delicate Arch from this area, as there’s a canyon called Winter Camp Wash in between. These trails don’t offer much more than a view, so if you plan to hike Delicate Arch Trail, you can skip them. We headed back to our car to drive to the main trail.

Delicate Arch Trail and Wolfe Ranch

It was time for the main trail to Delicate Arch. We arrived at the huge parking lot around 3:30 pm, and thankfully there was still parking. As we began the trail, we saw log cabins in front of us. This is Wolfe Ranch, settled by John Wesley Wolfe and his family around 1898. They were drawn to the area by a nearby freshwater spring. The Wolfe family lived on the property until they moved to Moab in 1910. The ranch was sold, and eventually purchased by the US government as part of Arches National Monument.

As we approached the ranch, we saw two buildings and a nearby corral. Old farm equipment lay scattered around. Visitors can’t enter or touch either building, but you can explore the grounds and look into the larger cabin through a screen door. It was built in 1906, when John’s daughter, Flora, moved to the area. Six people slept in the one-room cabin. Interestingly, Flora took the first known photograph of Delicate Arch in 1906.

After checking out the buildings, we continued along the trail and crossed Salt Wash. There was some water flowing but not a substantial amount. Seasonal flooding from the wash will occasionally close the road to Delicate Arch. The park is currently working on removing an invasive non-native plant called tamarisk that contributes to the flooding. We assume the water in the creek isn’t potable because of salt content, but we haven’t been able to confirm.

Immediately after the bridge, we turned left at a sign that simply said “Petroglyphs.” A short side trail leads to Ute Native American petroglyphs. They were inscribed sometime between 1650 and 1850, and they resemble horses and bighorn sheep. The area directly in front is fenced off so we could only get so close. It’s interesting to think about the people who carved them and their meaning.

Delicate Arch Trail

We rejoined the main trail, and started ascending a paved incline, which afforded us some views back to the Salt Wash area where we had just been. Reaching the top, we saw the trail dip down, then go up a huge sandstone slope. Large groups of people moved steadily onward.

There was no shade and it was getting pretty hot as we climbed. Please bring water; we saw people without it as they hiked. At the top of the uphill portion, we reached an area with some random cairns that people had made, next to a sign that pointed in the direction of the trail. (Note: creating cairns goes against the principles of Leave No Trace. This disturbs the natural landscape and can be confusing to hikers).

At this point, we followed the crowd since there were so many other hikers on the trail. Eventually we made it to a natural sandstone bowl. Directly across it was Delicate Arch! But there was no way for us to get to the arch from this direction (not easily at least). We realized we had missed a cairn and were on the wrong side of a sandstone fin. That’s what we get for following the crowd and not the cairns. Initially we tried to find our way up to Delicate Arch from here, but the route was sketchy, so we decided to backtrack instead. It was still cool to see a different view of the arch.

We backtracked until we found the trail again. It weaved around to the other side of the fin, where the path narrowed to three feet wide. A steep dropoff was on our left. It’s generally wide enough for two people, and it didn’t bother us, but I had read some visitors find it scary.

To our right was a slickrock incline that led to a small arch, called Frame Arch (also called Twisted Donut Arch). You’ll see why if you look through it – it literally frames Delicate Arch, so it’s a great place to take a photo. Unfortunately, there was a short line of people waiting for the same opportunity. It took about 10 minutes for one visitor to finish what they were doing before we could get an unobstructed view.

In 2016, someone carved their name into Frame Arch, severely damaging it. Thankfully, the park service was able to repair some of the damage by filling in the carving. But it’s still depressing that they had to do that in the first place. As a reminder, please leave no trace!

Delicate Arch

Continuing along the ledge, we ascended. As we came around a big rock, we immediately saw Delicate Arch. It seems to appear out of nowhere; you can’t see it from a distance as you approach like other arches. There were a lot of people scattered around the area, quietly observing the arch. Delicate Arch itself sits on the southeastern end of the bowl that we were at earlier.

Before we hiked the trail, Kristin wondered what the fuss was about. Now she understood the hype. Delicate Arch is a large, unique, freestanding formation, and the trail is challenging and enjoyable. We were glad we visited when we did, as the snowcapped La Sal Mountains provided a gorgeous backdrop for the iconic arch.

Nearby, visitors waited to get a photo with Delicate Arch. Everyone was quiet and respectful, which was much appreciated. After getting a close-up shot, we sat down and spent some time with the arch and got to know it a bit better. Before we knew it, it was time to go. We headed back the way we came. It was a bit scarier walking along the right side close to the ledge on the way down. After the hike, we drove to Moab and ate dinner at Milt’s – a super casual burger and fries type place that we recommend.

Delicate Arch is a treasure, so don’t miss it. The trail is somewhat difficult, and you’ll be surrounded by quite a few people, but it’s worth it. If you’re concerned about the crowds, try hiking it very early or later in the day. We loved the uniqueness of both the trail and the arch, and intend to visit again someday.

Delicate Arch Trail

Date: Tuesday, March 27, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 3.2 miles (5.2 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 743 feet (227 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including breaks
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: A lot everywhere
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, Petroglyphs, History
Directions to Delicate Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water. Try to hike in the morning or evening to avoid crowds.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot head east on Delicate Arch Trail
• 0.1 mi – Turn left toward Wolfe Ranch. The trail will loop around the cabins, and back onto Delicate Arch Trail.
• 0.2 mi – Take another left toward the petroglyphs. The trail will loop past the inscriptions and rejoin the main trail.
• 0.9 mi – Begin ascending a large sandstone slope.
• 1.5 mi – Arrive at Frame Arch, and stop to check out the view of Delicate Arch through it. Shortly after Frame Arch is a narrow ledge that leads to Delicate Arch.
• 1.7 mi – Stop and enjoy Delicate Arch. Then return along Delicate Arch Trail.
• 3.2 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Wolfe Ranch | 38.736371, -109.519721
• Ute Petroglyphs | 38.73751, -109.51864
• Frame Arch (Also known as Twisted Donut Arch) | 38.744037, -109.501137
• Delicate Arch | 38.743594, -109.499281

Maps

• Delicate Arch Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Wolfe Ranch (NPS)
• Historical First Photo of Delicate Arch by Flora Stanley, 1906 (NPGallery)
• Removing Tamarisk at Salt Wash (NPS)
• Frame Arch Graffiti (NPS)
• Delicate Arch (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Delicate Arch Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.