We planned to hike Grinnell Glacier Trail while staying at Many Glacier Hotel in Glacier National Park. The trail provides up-close views of three lakes and three glaciers. While you can hike the entire way from Many Glacier Hotel (11.8 mi) or the nearby trailhead (10.2 miles), another option is to take a boat from the foot of Swiftcurrent Lake, just outside the hotel. We chose the latter option, which shortens the hike to 6.9 miles, while providing another unique view of the area.

Not wanting to leave anything to chance, we booked our boat tickets about four months in advance. There are two morning boats to choose from. The 8:30 option was already full, so we opted for the 9 a.m. There are later boats, but we wanted plenty of time to hike. If you miss the return boat, you can always walk back to Many Glacier Hotel. I can’t overstate the importance of planning ahead when visiting a popular park like Glacier.

The trail and surrounding area are named for American naturalist and writer George Bird Grinnell (1849 – 1938). In 1885, he visited the area, including the glacier that now bears his name. He was also influential in the establishment of Glacier as a national park in 1910. Mount Grinnell, Grinnell Lake, and Upper Grinnell Lake are also named for him.

The day before our hike, we checked out of Fish Creek Campground in West Glacier. We had decided to take the day to whitewater raft along the Middle Fork Flathead River. It was a blast, and Travis only fell in once. Our raftmates were a family of three from Blacksburg, VA. Travis went to Virginia Tech, so we had some good conversation. They mentioned wanting to hike Grinnell Glacier Trail the next day as well, but they didn’t have boat tickets. So we parted ways, wondering if we’d see them on the trail.

Boat Tour Across Swiftcurrent and Josephine Lakes

After our rafting trip, we drove Going to the Sun Road and checked into Many Glacier Hotel. The next morning, we headed to the dock behind the hotel around 8:30 a.m. to get our tickets. There were people waiting for the boat, and others trying to buy last-minute tickets. About 10 minutes before our tour, they let us board the boat, Chief Two Guns. There were some no-shows, so a few people who were waiting got on as well. In all, there were 50 people including the captain onboard.

Two separate boat rides are included, first across Swiftcurrent Lake, and then across Lake Josephine. A short 0.2 mile hike over a hill connects the two. For the Swiftcurrent portion, our captain was Linnea, the daughter of two Glacier park rangers. She gave a talk about the history of the lodge, geology, and wildlife in the surrounding area, and even pointed out a beaver lodge. She was very knowledgeable, and it was nice to sit back, relax, and learn. During the tour, a few passengers at a time could go out on the bow of the boat to check out the view.

Along the way, the mountain and lake views are stunning. I could just make out Salamander Glacier from the boat. I spotted what I thought was a waterfall, and debated with the other passengers whether it was snow or in fact a waterfall (surprisingly, I was right). Before we knew it, we had docked at the opposite end of the lake.

After our quick five minute hike, we found ourselves on the shore of Lake Josephine. Our next boat, Morning Eagle, was waiting. It was a quick trip across the lake. Along the way we saw hikers on the trail adjacent to the lake, which reminded us that there are options if you aren’t able to get boat tickets. At the final dock near the head of Lake Josephine, we passed a shelter area where passengers can wait for the boat. There’s a pit toilet nearby too, but it was in poor shape (hopefully it’s been repaired by now).

Josephine Walk

It was time to officially start our hike. Our route first skirted the head of Lake Josephine. We passed an intersection with a trail that goes directly to Grinnell Lake. However, we took the more leisurely route along a narrow boardwalk in a boggy area. Travis spotted a frog and some orchids along this section. We then crossed a bridge over Cataract Creek, which flows into Lake Josephine.

The boardwalk continues after the bridge, and we came to an intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail. We turned left, away from the lake, and shortly came to another intersection with Grinnell Glacier Trail. This is where the route joins the main trail.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Here, the trail rapidly ascends up switchbacks. The tree cover becomes less dense as the elevation increases. This day would turn out to be the hottest that we experienced in the park, in the low 90s Fahrenheit. The heat, plus the lack of shade, made this one of the hardest hikes we did in Glacier.

We took a quick break in the shade of a pine tree, and the fresh fragrance lingered in the air. I had no idea it smelled so good – sweet and floral, nothing like artificial pine scent. There were panoramic views of Lake Josephine, and Grinnell Lake became visible as we continued on. Looking behind us, we could see Swiftcurrent Lake. We imagined how glaciers carved out the valleys over thousands of years. The views are unreal, and totally worth it even if you don’t hike all the way to Grinnell Glacier.

The views get even better as we ascended. Waterfalls and wildflowers were everywhere. Perhaps the most interesting plant we saw was bear grass, a distinctive puffy white wildflower. We crossed a few streams flowing across the trail. I was wearing a buff around my neck to prevent sunburn, so I dipped it in a stream and then draped it back around my neck to cool off. Highly recommend.

Not surprisingly, the trail was crowded. The vast majority of hikers greeted us, and were considerate, particularly where the trail was narrow. Conversely, there were a couple people who just plowed ahead.

Suddenly, we spotted some familiar faces: our friends from whitewater rafting the previous day! They were heading down while we were heading up. We were impressed since they had hiked the whole way, and clearly made it to Grinnell Glacier well before us. We said hi, and would have chatted further, but the trail was too narrow and crowded to hold an extended conversation.

As we hiked, snowmelt created many small waterfalls along the trail. One waterfall flowed directly onto the trail, so we were pretty much guaranteed to get wet. There was kind of a way to go around it, but most people didn’t bother, since it was a hot and sunny day. We stowed our camera gear, then we went for it. The water was very refreshing, but if it had been a cool or windy day, we would have tried to go around.

At this point, we were almost directly above Grinnell Lake, which was a gorgeous shade of aquamarine. A few patches of snow came into view as we gained elevation, and we spotted some glacial lilies nearby. The panoramic views along this trail showcase the mountains, lakes, glaciers, trees, and striking topography of the area.

After about 2.7 miles on Grinnell Glacier Trail, we arrived at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area, which boasts benches, trees (yay shade), and two pit toilets. It’s the main stop before the climb to Upper Grinnell Lake and the glaciers, so it was unsurprisingly crowded. Some people were eating lunch here. We had planned to eat lunch by one of the glaciers, so we took a short break before continuing on.

Grinnell Glacier

From the picnic area, we quickly made it 0.4 miles to the top. We stood above Upper Grinnell Lake, enjoying the view. Looking up, we saw Salamander Glacier. To our left was Grinnell Glacier, or rather, what remained of it. Salamander used to be part of Grinnell Glacier, but they separated due to melting sometime before 1929. Between 1966 and 2015, Grinnell Glacier lost almost 45% of its area, which contributed to forming Upper Grinnell Lake. Salamander has lost about 23% in the same period. Currently, there are only 26 active glaciers left in the park (to be considered active, a glacier must to be larger than 25 acres).

We headed closer to the lake, which is a brilliant blue color due to glacial flour. Waterfalls ran down the side of the mountains into the lake, and large ice chunks floated on the water. To the south is Mount Gould, and to the north is Mount Grinnell. The Highline Trail runs on the other side of a rock feature called the Garden Wall. From the Highline Trail, hikers can take Garden Wall Trail to an overlook above Grinnell Glacier. Gem Glacier, the smallest named glacier in the park, is situated below Mount Gould and above Grinnell Glacier. In fact, it’s so small now at around 5 acres, that it’s no longer considered an active glacier.

It was pleasantly cool due to the lake and glaciers, so we took the opportunity to relax and eat lunch with a view. While we had reached the end of the official trail, there are plenty of social trails and viewing areas for a closer look. Visitors should avoid walking on Grinnell Glacier itself (or any glacier), as there are hidden crevices that you can fall into.

After soaking up views of the lake and glaciers, we started our journey back down. The three lakes we passed earlier – Grinnell, Josephine, and Swiftcurrent – aligned in the valley below as we descended. The view of these three lakes surrounded by mountains is perhaps one of Glacier’s most iconic.

On the way down, we talked to a hiker who mentioned a bear sighting on the trail ahead. Another hiker later on mentioned that a park ranger had scared it away, so we didn’t end up seeing it. It’s extremely helpful to share any relevant safety information with other hikers, and we found ourselves doing the same on other trails throughout our trip.

We completed our hike relatively quickly, since we planned to return before the last boat departed at 5:15 pm. We arrived at the dock around 4:50 pm, where there were a number of people waiting and enjoying the sun and scenery. Round-trip ticket holders (like us) have priority, though you can also get a one-way ticket. If the boat couldn’t accommodate everyone, it would return as necessary.

The boat pulled up at 5:15 pm. It was completely full, and only about 20 passengers got off. We were able to board, but some people had to wait for the boat to return. Now that I think about it, a boat ride to the head of Lake Josephine, followed by a 3.2 mile hike back to Many Glacier Hotel, would make for a nice afternoon excursion.

We arrived back at the hotel ravenous and tired, but happy. We immediately hopped in the car and drove about 5 minutes to Nell’s at Swiftcurrent to grab some dinner. Despite the crowds, the hike to Grinnell Glacier was a great opportunity to see and learn a lot. It’s arguably the easiest glacier to access in the park, and the boat ride adds another element of interest. Even if you’re only in the park for a short time, I highly recommend this dayhike.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Date: Tuesday, July 23, 2019
Type: Dayhike Out and Back
Total Distance: 6.9 miles (11.2 km) from the boat dock. 10.2 miles (16.4 km) from trailhead.
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1824 feet (556 m) from Boat Dock. 1969 feet (600 meters) from trailhead.
Time: 9 hours total, including boat and hiking. Active hiking time was 7 hours. The boat ride from Many Glacier to Lake Josephine (including both legs plus the short hike) is about an hour, each way.
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: High
Water: Lakes, streams, and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, glaciers, water features, boardwalk, marsh, wildflowers, lakes
Directions to Trailhead: Grinnell Glacier Trailhead
Notes: We recommend taking the boat if you can, but the longer hike from Grinnell Glacier Trailhead is also a good option

Trail Directions – From Lake Josephine Boat Dock

• 0.0 mi – From the boat dock on Lake Josephine, walk 150 feet on Josephine Walk Trail. Keep right to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Horse Trail. After another 150 feet, continue straight to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Foot Trail. The trail will transition to a boardwalk temporarily. Follow signs for Grinnell Glacier.
• 0.2 mi – Cross over Cataract Creek on a bridge that flows into Lake Josephine
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail, keep left on Josephine Walk Trail
• 0.4 mi – Turn left onto Grinnell Glacier Trail
• 3.1 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 3.5 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier. When done exploring, head back down the way you came.
• 3.8 mi – Arrive back at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 6.5 mi – Turn right onto Josephine Walk Trail
• 6.6 mi – At the intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail, keep right to stay on Josephine Walk Trail
• 6.7 mi – Cross the bridge over Cataract Creek
• 6.9 mi – At the intersection with Grinnell Lake Foot Trail, continue straight to stay on Josephine Walk Trail. After 150 feet, turn left to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Horse Trail. Go another 150 feet to reach Lake Josephine Dock, where you can wait for the boat.

Trail Directions – From Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

• 0.0 mi – From the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead, head south on Swiftcurrent Lake Trail
• 0.8 mi – Pass the dock at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake, then turn left onto North Shore Josephine Lake Trail
• 1.7 mi – At the fork, keep right to go onto Grinnell Glacier Trail
• 2.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Josephine Walk Trail
• 4.8 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 5.1 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier. When done exploring, head back down the way you came.
• 5.4 mi – Arrive back at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 8.2 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Josephine Walk Trail
• 8.5 mi – Continue straight onto North Shore Josephine Walk Trail
• 9.4 mi – Turn left onto Swiftcurrent Lake Trail. Pass the dock at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake.
• 10.2 mi – Back at the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

Maps

• Grinnell Glacier Trail Map (KTNP)
• Many Glacier Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Grinnell Glacier Trailhead (NPS)
• Grinnell Glacier Historical Photos (NPS)
• USGS Glacier Status

Elevation Graph – From Lake Josephine Boat Dock

Elevation Graph – From Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

Interactive Map

The post Grinnell Glacier Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Time flies when you’re having fun, and sadly it was the last day of our trip to Canyonlands National Park. We had completed a 4-day backpacking adventure in Salt Creek Canyon, followed by a much needed one-day break. On our last full day in Utah, we decided to check out Chesler Park, a dayhike in the Needles District.

We planned to hike the 10.2 mile lollipop loop called Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail. It features spectacular views and a unique path through a deep and narrow fracture in the sandstone. Chesler Park is a large circular grassland surrounded by needles, a geological feature. Back in the 1960s, it was used for cattle grazing (which thankfully has since ended). While there are many ways to hike Chesler Park, we decided to take the route suggested by the park service.

A quick note about trail names in the Needles – you’ll notice that many are inconsistent if you look at multiple maps. Our map uses trail names based on public NPS GIS data. But the trail signs don’t specify the trail names, and instead have arrows with the destination and mileage (e.g. Elephant Hill in 1.5 mi or Druid Arch in 3.9 mi). For these reasons, we highly recommend carrying a map.

Elephant Hill Trailhead

We woke up tired and sore from our 28-mile backpacking trip, but we had high hopes for the day. The drive to Elephant Hill Trailhead was fairly easy, until we turned onto Elephant Hill Access Road shortly after the Needles Campground. After that, it’s a narrow dirt road with blind curves, so we took it slow. We got to the trailhead around 11 a.m. Chesler Park is a longer hike so I wished we had gotten there earlier, but this was the best we could do on that particular day. Thankfully there were still some parking spots at the main lot. There is also an overflow lot that we passed on the way.

Initially the trail ascends slickrock, and there are some picturesque stone steps. Much of the hike continues along slickrock, and some sections cut through sand. Cryptobiotic soil is also present, so be sure to avoid stepping on it.

We followed cairns as the trail weaved its way south, above Elephant Canyon. Behind us to the north, we spotted the snow capped La Sal Mountains. In the distance we could see the spires and needles that give the area its name.

300 million years ago, ancient seas dried up, leaving behind a layer of salt – which still lies 1000 feet below the surface. As rock eroded, it covered the salt, and the pressure caused the salt to flow. The resulting movement fractured the sandstone on top, creating a grid-like pattern. Over time, further erosion carved the needles as they appear today.

It was sunny and in the 80s, so we ducked behind any rocks we could find. There was a significant temperature difference in the shade compared to the sun. As we hiked, we saw a few lizards scampering around, and wildflowers like Indian paintbrush. After 0.6 miles we continued right on Chesler Park Trail. At this point I was still exhausted from the backpacking trip, but it wore off quickly as I was really enjoying the hike.

The trail ascends slickrock, then cuts through portions of rock. It led us through a narrow crack between two fins. It was shady and cool through there, so we hung out for a bit. We continued straight at the next intersection. Left would have taken us to Druid Arch, and right leads to EC1, a backcountry site.

We were getting closer to the needles, which meant better views. At the next intersection, we turned left to stay on Chesler Park Trail. This portion of the trail only goes for 0.6 miles, and features a moderately strenuous uphill climb with about 400 feet of elevation gain. Looking behind us, we had a view into Elephant Canyon, where we had just hiked, with the La Sals in the distance. A sign marked a “viewpoint.” The trail climbs, peaks, and then descends a sandy trail into Chesler Park itself. To our left, a small unnamed arch peeked out above the fins.

Chesler Park Loop

The slickrock gave way to a grass-covered meadow. This was Chesler Park. Though it seemed a bit out of place, it was beautiful. In the book Canyonlands National Park: Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails, author David Day theorizes that Chesler Park was formed by an ancient sinkhole that was filled with sand. When the salt movement below the surface created the needles, it also created the wide open Chesler Park.

While you can go either way at the intersection to form a 4.9 mile loop around Chesler Park, we chose to turn left and go counterclockwise. A network of trails, including Chesler Park Trail, Joint Trail, Devils Lane Road, and Devils Kitchen Trail, forms the circuit. Our first section, Chesler Park Trail, is narrow, sandy, and surrounded by vegetation and cryptobiotic soil. A few larger trees and bushes are scattered around. Shade is hard to come by, but we found a small tree where we enjoyed a quick lunch break.

Back on the trail, there are several viewpoints out over the needles. We passed two consecutive intersections, the first of which leads to Druid Arch. The next is a spur trail which follows some fins and needles into the heart of Chesler Park. Along this spur are four backcountry campsites: CP2, CP3, CP4, and CP5. (We had passed CP1 earlier, along the loop.)

Joint Trail

Next, Chesler Park Loop Trail transitions to the Joint Trail. Along the way, we noticed another spur trail that leads to a south viewpoint (but decided to skip it due to time constraints). As the trail continued, we arrived in a slickrock section with a sign pointing down a set of stairs, through a crack between fins, geologically known as a joint. While this looks like a slot canyon, it’s technically not (a slot canyon is typically formed through erosion via water). Hence, the Joint Trail.

This section of the hike is what we had most been looking forward to. As we followed the sandy trail, beams of light shone in, illuminating some portions. We scrambled down in a couple of areas, and shuffled through narrower sections. And the joint provided some much-needed respite from the heat. Eventually, the trail opened up to a wider and brighter area. We ran into another couple here, and briefly chatted with them about our travels.

We went a bit further through the joint, and spotted numerous cairns built by hikers. My understanding is that every so often, park rangers will take them down, since they can be misleading. Shortly after, we emerged into the bright sunlight. The joint was a fun experience, and the most memorable part of this hike.

We were back out in the open for the remainder of the hike. For the next 15 minutes, we hiked over sand and slickrock until the Joint Trail merges with a sandy 4WD road, called Joint Trail Road. There’s a picnic table and a latrine at this intersection.

From there, we hiked along Joint Trail Road for 0.5 miles, then turned right onto Devils Road. After another 0.2 miles, we came to a trail on the right that heads back toward Chesler Park. One car drove by while we were hiking, so keep an eye out. While the “trail” in this section is uninteresting, the views from the road are nice.

Back to Chesler Park Trail

Now we were back to hiking across slickrock and among rocky formations. After 25 minutes, we turned right to head east. The trail had more of the same – some light scrambling, cracks through fins, and views of the needles. Eventually, we finished the loop and headed back north to the trailhead. At this point, we were pretty tired, and just wanted to be done.

At around 6 p.m., we made it back to Elephant Hill Trailhead. We were wiped out. And hungry. We drove back to Moab for dinner and some much-needed rest. I wished we were staying closer to the Needles, but I also greatly appreciated the amenities Moab has to offer.

Chesler Park is a popular hike, and now I know why. It gets you up close to the needles and other rock formations, and the joint is particularly unique. The terrain and views are also varied, which creates interest. And there’s a surprising amount of solitude given its popularity.

Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail

Date: Friday, April 19, 2019
Type: Lollipop loop day hike
Total Distance: 10.2 miles (16.4 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2076 feet (634 m)
Time: 7 hours
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low-moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological features including joints, views
Directions to Trailhead: Elephant Hill Trailhead
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water, hat, sunscreen, etc.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – Head south from Elephant Hill Trailhead.
• 1.3 mi – Turn right at the intersection.
• 1.8 mi – Continue straight, passing the EC1 backcountry campsite on your right. You’ll gain 400 feet of elevation in this section.
• 2.4 mi – Continue straight, passing Devils Kitchen Trail on your right.
• 2.6 mi – Arrive at Chesler Park, where the loop begins. Turn left to hike the loop clockwise.
• 3.7 mi – Continue straight, passing a turn-off on the left that heads toward Druid Arch.
• 3.8 mi – Continue straight, passing a turn-off on the right toward backcountry campsites along needles and fins in Chesler Park. Joint Trail begins here (though you won’t enter the actual joint yet).
• 4.5 mi – Enter the joint in the sandstone.
• 5.3 mi – Continue straight onto Joint Trail Road and continue (there’s a port-a-potty here).
• 5.8 mi – Turn right onto Devils Lane Road.
• 6.0 mi – Turn right onto Devils Kitchen Trail.
• 6.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection.
• 7.6 mi – You’ve completed the loop! Turn left to head back toward the trailhead.
• 7.8 mi – Continue straight, passing Devils Kitchen Trail on your left.
• 8.4 mi – Continue straight, passing the EC1 backcountry campsite on your left.
• 8.9 mi – Turn left at the intersection, toward Elephant Hill
• 10.2 mi – Arrive back at the trailhead.

Maps

• Chesler Park Trail Map (KTNP)
• Needles District Map (NPS)

Links

• Chesler Park Loop and Joint Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

In 2018, we enjoyed exploring the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park. But we wished we had been able to visit other areas of the park too. So, the following year, that’s what we did. After researching, we decided on a four day, three night backpacking trip through Salt Creek Canyon in the Needles District.

Salt Creek Trail has a lot of draws and is located in one of the more remote areas of the Needles District. There are reliable water sources, archeological ruins, history, arches, solitude, and more. The area can be hiked via multiple routes, and we decided to do a one-way shuttle hike. Overall, the route we chose was easy to moderate. We planned low mileage days so we could take our time and explore.

Our trip turned out amazing – we loved the history, scenery, and vibe of the area. It was exactly what we were looking for. Unfortunately, we ran into a couple issues along the way (primarily due to our own mistakes). But when backpacking, you have to be prepared for anything. So we rolled with them as best we could, and this post goes into detail, so hopefully it helps someone else. Get ready, this is a long one.

Planning – Route and Campsites

We started our route at the southern border of Canyonlands, at Cathedral Butte in Bears Ears National Monument. There are two options for hiking out – Cave Spring or the Needles Campground. Exiting at Cave Spring makes for a shorter route, but the final 3.5 miles is along a sandy wash. Hiking out at the Needles Campground would mean an additional 1.3 miles, but it affords more views along the slickrock. We decided to finish our trip at Cave Spring, making the total distance 28.2 miles.

Along the route are four designated campsites: SC1, SC2, SC3, and SC4. There’s no dispersed camping until reaching the Salt/Horse Zone (after 14.1 miles). So, for us, it was critical that we got the campsites that we wanted. We wanted SC1 -> SC3 -> Salt/Horse Zone permits. SC2 was our backup to SC1, while SC4 was our backup to SC3. SC1 and SC2 are adjacent, and we had read that SC1 was more private. SC3 was preferable to SC4 because there’s a lot to see between SC1/SC2 and SC3, and we wanted time to explore.

The trail begins at 7,074′ of elevation, and ends at 4,931′. The trail descends initially, and is fairly level for the rest of the trip. The longest day for us would be the last one (day 4), while the other days were fairly low mileage. We decided to hike it south to north, so we would descend, rather than ascend, about 2,000 feet of elevation. About half way along Salt Creek Trail is a side trail to Angel Arch, the largest sandstone arch within Canyonlands NP. So we tacked on an additional 3.2 miles round-trip to see it.

Planning – Permits and Regulations

We were able to reserve the sites online, but the reservation system has changed since then. Starting in 2020, Canyonlands uses recreation.gov, and future blocks of campsites are available on four specific dates throughout the year. For example, on November 10, 2020, the permits for March 10 through June 9, 2021 became available. This makes it easier to grab the sites for your entire trip. (To reserve our campsites, I had to wait until 2am EST, for 3 nights straight, when the permits became available.)

With our permits secured, our next step was booking a shuttle, since this was a one-way hike. We contacted Coyote Shuttle, headquartered in Moab. We reserved our shuttle well in advance, for $300 (the cost now is around $375). Expensive, but worth it, and they were responsive and professional.

Next, it was time to research specific points of interest. We bought books and scoured the internet. Along the trail are numerous ruins, cliff dwellings, pictographs, and artifacts that were created thousands of years ago by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan (also called Anasazi) Native Americans. People lived in the region for roughly 2,000 years, starting as hunter-gatherers, and eventually farming. By 1200 AD, large groups of people lived in what is now Canyonlands, and the society reached its peak. Around 1300 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans left the area and migrated south toward Arizona and New Mexico, possibly due to drought.

Big Ruins, the largest archaeological site in Canyonlands, evokes a sense of grandeur. There are at least 20 structures high on a ledge. The Ancestral Puebloans also lived in what is now Mesa Verde National Park, so they have similarities. There are also smaller features within Salt Creek Canyon that are just as worthwhile. Directions to these landmarks are not always public knowledge, but you can find information about them online or in books with enough time and effort. To protect them, we won’t provide the specific locations of these special places.

A couple important details that are specific to the area: First, there is a small population of black bears in Salt Creek Canyon. In late summer, the bears migrate down from the nearby Abajo Mountains, so bear canisters are required along Salt Creek Canyon from March 15 to November 30 (and highly recommended at other times). This was the first time we needed a canister, and we bought a BearVault BV500, which sufficed for four days with two people. Another important thing to know is that all human waste must be packed out when camping at designated campsites (which includes SC 1-4). When we visited, only toilet paper needed to be packed out, but this changed in 2020.

Day 0 – To Moab

It’s also vital to know that Beef Basin Road, which leads to our trailhead at Cathedral Butte, is a rough dirt road. We expected the weather to be sunny and dry like our first trip to the area. But it rained heavily just before our trip, and it turns out that the road gets muddy and can become impassable after a downpour…so we weren’t sure what Beef Basin Road had in store for us. Other than that, the weather looked nice for our trip in late March – mid 60s to low 70s during the day, and 40s at night.

When we arrived in Moab, we checked into Inca Inn before heading to Coyote Shuttle to pay for the trip. While there, we were told that there was the possibility of snow/ice on the trail. We decided to stop by a local shop and grab some cheap crampons. Fortunately, we didn’t end up needing them, but I’m glad we had them just in case.

Day 1 – To Cathedral Butte

The next day, we woke up early and drove to Canyonlands National Park, Needles District. On the way we stopped at a few places with scenic views or attractions like Newspaper Rock. Once we arrived at the Needles Visitor Center, we got our backcountry camping permits. Since we had reserved an at-large area (Salt/Horse), we were required to pick up our permits from the Visitor Center (so a ranger could give us brief instructions before the trip).

At the visitor center, we also changed our permit to exit at the Needles Campground rather than Cave Spring. We decided we preferred to hike on slickrock instead of the sandy path to Cave Spring. But, we ended up exiting at Cave Spring anyway… we’ll get to that later.

Around 9:45 a.m., we met our shuttle driver, Farland, at the visitor center. We followed her in our car to the Needles Campground, where we parked. Then, we hopped in the jeep for our bumpy ride. Farland was very friendly and engaging. She told us about her past career as a teacher (Kristin is also a teacher), as well as her experiences in the Moab area.

Beef Basin Road goes through Bears Ears National Monument, where Cathedral Butte is located. Initially, the ride wasn’t too bad. We zipped across the dirt road with towering redrock monoliths beside us, and through a large pool of water. The further we went, the worse shape the road was in, until it got pretty muddy. Farland and the jeep were able to handle it all, and we got to the Cathedral Butte trailhead without any issues. She dropped us off at 11:30 a.m., and we thanked her profusely.

The trailhead was at the top of a cliff surrounded by pinyon and juniper. Looking out over Salt Creek Canyon – at 7,074 feet of elevation – gave us a scenic view of where we were heading. It’s intimidating to suddenly be dropped in the middle of nowhere with no transportation, aside from walking. There was some lingering snow around the parking area, as well as one other very muddy truck with chains on its tires.

Day 1 – Cathedral Butte to SC1

Before starting our hike, we checked out the trailhead sign. We signed the register, and found an NPS map describing a challenging marshy section about 2.5 miles into the trail. We snapped a photo of it, just in case. Around noon, we started our descent into Salt Creek. After 4.3 miles, we would reach our campsite.

Over the next 1.5 miles, we descended almost 1000 feet. It wasn’t hard, but the trail was steep and eroded in places. We were glad we were going down and not up! The weather was cool, but we quickly peeled off layers as we moved. There was a bit of scattered snow, but none on the trail. As we got lower, we started seeing cryptobiotic soil – which we made sure to avoid. The views were incredible, and we enjoyed looking back at Cathedral Butte, to see where we had come from.

Eventually, the route descended into a flat area with sagebrush, and then the sandy “bottom” of Upper Salt Creek Canyon. From there, we left Bears Ears National Monument and entered Canyonlands National Park. The vegetation around us started to change again until we were surrounded by tamarisk, rabbitbrush, willows, and other brush and grasses. We went through this section until we came to the marsh mentioned on the map at the trailhead, full of tall scouring reeds.

Initially, the path was easy to follow through the towering reeds. We crossed small streams that flowed through. While the park does have pink ribbons tied around reeds as markers to follow, they were difficult to find. The further in we went, the harder it was to navigate. We had read that hikers should bear right along the path toward the east side of the marsh, and we were able to figure our way through. But I can see the benefit of having the map (from the trailhead) just in case.

We brought binoculars so we could see some of the ruins and cliff dwellings that were further away. The marshy section was where (we think) we got our first glimpse of some granaries high up on a cliff along the east side of the trail.

Eventually, the trail follows a sandstone cliff to the east (our right). The trail is very clear here, and runs right past the first pictograph panel we saw. The panel has four handprints, as well as a small humanoid figure. We couldn’t help stretching out our hands and comparing them to the ones on the wall (without touching them). We wondered who created them and why. How long ago? Interesting thoughts and theories flooded our minds as we speculated.

Shortly after the pictograph is the first reliable water source – Kirk Spring. Water cascades down a sandstone slope and lands in a large pond. It’s very picturesque, but we didn’t linger too long. It’s close enough to our campsite that we would come back to filter later. 150 yards beyond the water source, we encountered the next historical treasure: Kirk’s Cabin.

A small hewn log cabin sits just next to the trail. Built in the 1890s by Renssalaer Lee Kirk, the cabin has stood for over 125 years. Kirk ranched there until 1905, when he abandoned the area because he couldn’t make a living. Scattered around the cabin are remnants of the ranching days: a corral, fences, even an old wagon. The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.

The cabin is open to visitors, so we went in and explored. Small trinkets (and unfortunately, trash left by other hikers) were strewn about. While the cabin is in decent shape considering its age, I imagine it’s seen better days. It’s hard to imagine living here; I’m sure it was a lonely experience.

Just past Kirk’s Cabin is a small trail to the right that leads to two campsites: SC1 and SC2. We were staying at SC1, so we headed back on the spur, where it split to each individual campsite. We assumed SC2 was booked, but we didn’t see anyone else. Our campsite was large, quiet, and private. We set up our camp, ate dinner, and headed to bed.

Day 2 – SC1 to Big Pocket

The next morning we woke up refreshed and excited for the day. There are so many things to see on the next stretch of trail: the All American Man, Four Faces, Squash Patch, Big Ruins, Ring Arch, and numerous other points of interest. We only planned to hike five miles, so we could focus on exploring. But first, we needed to filter some water…which became more of an issue than we anticipated.

On the way out of the campsite, we spotted Kirk Arch across the canyon. It’s difficult to see because there is another rock face behind the opening. We had missed it the day before, but once you know where it is, you can’t miss it. We headed left on Salt Creek Trail, passed Kirk’s Cabin, and backtracked to the pond.

Our water filter of choice is a Sawyer Squeeze. While we’ve used other systems in the past, we’ve found it to have the best balance of utility, weight, and ease of use. We filled up our water pouches at Kirk Spring, attached them to the filter, and squeezed – water should come out the other side into our bottles. But nothing came out. Not worried yet, we backwashed the filter. It still didn’t work. Insert expletive here.

Before our trip, we had picked up supplies at the REI in Grand Junction, Colorado. On a whim we also bought some water purification tablets. We’d never carried or used them before, but we were glad we had them. Without the tablets, we would have needed to boil water, taking away our precious fuel. And we hadn’t even seen another hiker at this point, so borrowing wasn’t an option.

We brought a limited number of tablets, so we had to conserve them as much as possible. Part of that meant allowing the water to warm to “room temperature” before we added the tablets, and calculating how much water to put into each container (we used hydration bladders, which made it easier). And, two new takeaways from the trip: first, test our water filter before leaving, and second, bring purification tablets as a backup.

After figuring out the water situation, we headed north past Kirk’s Cabin, then past the wooden fence built by Kirk himself. The fences are fairly intricate, even though barbed wire was available at the time. About a third of a mile later, we came to our first easily accessible ruins – two small granaries tucked in an alcove – not far from the trail. It’s special to be able to get up close (but not too close) to the ruins. Back on the main trail, we spotted another unnamed arch across the canyon to the west. It’s scenic, yet inaccessible. Sometimes this is also referred to as Kirk Arch.

As we continued on the trail, we spotted signs of wildlife. On the path was hairy scat, most likely from coyotes which frequent the area. Also on this stretch, we saw the most peculiar insects – red and yellow colored hairy ants. They lived in holes on the trail. We later learned that they’re called velvet ants, but are actually a type of wasp! They can sting, but thankfully aren’t aggressive.

Soon after, we came upon the Big Pocket area to our right (east) where we spotted a Great Basin gopher snake in the brush. They aren’t poisonous, but we didn’t know that at the time, so we stayed well away. We knew there were additional ruins in the Big Pocket Area, but we continued on the main trail since there was so much to explore.

Day 2 – Big Ruins, Wedding Ring Arch, Squash Granary

Looking west, we saw Big Ruins about 0.4 miles from the trail. If you know where to look, the ruins are easy to find. Located on a cliff, it’s the largest collection of Ancestral Puebloan Ruins in Canyonlands. This site was one reason I wanted to hike Salt Creek. Most ruins are tucked into a ledge about 70 feet off the ground. To get closer to the ruins, we found a social spur trail immediately after a large diamond shaped rock. As we approached, the ruins slowly came into focus. Black soot covered the ceiling of the ledges, remnants of fires from over 700 years ago.

At our feet were numerous pottery pieces, so many that we had to make sure we didn’t step on any. Previous visitors had placed most of them on rocks to help protect them. The pieces have various patterns and colors, and we promptly tried to find our favorite designs. As always, leave no trace and do not remove any artifacts from the site.

Metate and mano – tools that were used to grind corn – are also in this area. So logically, there were dried corncobs there too. Could these be over 700 years old? At the bottom of the sandstone cliffs are granary ruins, where corn was likely stored so long ago. On the higher ledge with the structures, we spotted more handprints. There’s no way to get to the ledge, so they’re protected. The Ancestral Puebloans likely used ladders, which have long since disappeared, to access the structures. Big Ruins are awe-inspiring and they lived up to my expectations.

After exploring for as long as we could, we returned to the main trail. Far in the distance we saw a peculiar shape – Fisheye Arch. Another nearby arch (which isn’t as visible), is also sometimes referred to as Fisheye Arch. Shortly after, we went about 600 feet off the main trail to check out Wedding Ring Arch.

As we were heading to Wedding Ring Arch, we met the first person we’d seen since starting the trail. We were surprised to learn that he was a day hiker, but we weren’t sure where he started from. He had been looking for the All American Man pictograph. While we didn’t know exactly where it was, we knew it was to the north, so we mentioned that. But he was running out of time, and headed south. If he couldn’t find the pictograph, we started to worry that we wouldn’t be able to either.

Wedding Ring Arch is almost a perfect circle, if you look from the right angle. It’s large, about 200 feet high and 150 feet wide. Like Fisheye Arch, another Wedding Ring Arch is located before Kirk’s Cabin on some maps. But this one looks more like a ring than that one. Once we got some photos, we headed back to the main trail. The path goes through some wide open sagebrush areas, through reeds, and then back into sagebrush. Well worn hiker-made trails weave their way from Salt Creek Trail to our next destination – the Squash Plant Ruins.

Three granary ruins sit below an alcove. There are many granaries in Salt Creek, but what makes these unique is the squash plants growing in front of them. They likely grew from seeds originally planted by the Puebloans over 700 years ago! As far as we know, this is the only area in Salt Creek that has squash plants.

We were lucky to spot an old squash from the previous year, now hollow. How cool is that? Seeing it helped us imagine what it would have been like to live there long ago. More handprints above the granaries round out this special area.

Day 2 – All American Man, Four Faces, SC3

There was still more to see in this section of Salt Creek. Next were two of the most iconic pictographs: the All American Man and Four Faces. But first, we spotted a few ruins high up in a crack on a sandstone cliff. It’s mind-blowing to ponder how they might have been built. Shortly after, we came to the well-known All American Man basically right next to the trail. It’s located in a crevice in the wall, about 10 to 15 feet above the ground, with some ruins behind it. Below we found a canister with a hiker log, which we signed.

The All American Man is aptly named – a six-foot tall round figure, decked out in red, white, and blue, along with a narrow head and strange antennae. There is even what appears to be an American flag (but of course, it isn’t) near the figure’s “waist.” It’s vivid and spectacular. The blue color is actually gray, but it appears blue in the dim light and among the surrounding red sandstone. At some point, a visitor outlined the pictograph with white chalk – a practice that has damaged many petroglyphs and pictographs. Please treat all ruins with respect, and follow leave no trace.

The trail briefly veers to the west after the All American Man and goes through a crack in the sandstone. While it was probably unnecessary for the trail to go this way, it does make for an interesting scramble. Afterward, we made our way through dense reeds and other thick vegetation. About 30 minutes past the All American Man, we arrived at some ruins and the next pictograph – the Four Faces.

Most of the ruins in Canyonlands are from the Ancestral Puebloan culture, but Four Faces was created by the Fremont people. The two groups are distinct, and they overlapped in the area. The Four Faces is well preserved, considering it’s over 700 years old. The red colors are vivid, and it looks like it could have been painted yesterday. There are other “face” pictographs in Canyonlands, but most are in poorer condition. One of the nearby ruins was likely a kiln or hearth, as it’s blackened with soot inside.

Four Faces Spring, which would be our next water source, is located near the pictograph. The spring is also only a short walk from SC3 campsite. There, we met the second person that we’d seen so far. He was doing a through hike on The Hayduke Trail, which goes from Arches National Park through much of Southern Utah, then into Northern Arizona before ending in Zion National Park. An alternate route goes through Salt Creek. As we talked, we started feeling a bit uncomfortable with some things he was discussing. Then, he asked to stay in our campsite, and we realized that he likely did not have any permits. We’re usually pretty flexible, but due to some odd vibes we declined.

Continuing, we crossed Salt Creek and walked another 0.2 miles to reach SC3, our campsite for the night. The site is nice and big, and more open than SC1. Once we set up camp, I headed back to Four Faces Spring to get some water.

I peered into the pond and was surprised to see some large salamanders. These were Tiger Salamanders, the only species of salamander in the park. As I was taking this in, a small bat flew over the surface of the pond looking for insects. There’s so much wildlife here! I only had my cell phone on me on, so the pictures aren’t great. I headed back to camp for dinner. I tried out a GOOD TO-GO Bibimbap meal – it was not very good, which was disappointing since we’ve liked the brand’s other meals.

Day 3 – SC3 to Angel Arch Camp

We started early on day 3. Our plan was to hike 5.3 miles to a dispersed campsite, then head down a side trail to check out Angel Arch. The hike started out in sagebrush and led us to some geometric rock art, before reaching Upper Jump. This is a small waterfall, and would be a good place to get water if we had needed it. The creek bed then drops about 25 feet, and the trail gets greener, wetter, and narrower. We soon found ourselves surrounded by rabbitbrush, willows, and other vegetation. It was a welcome change.

For the next 2.3 miles or so after Upper Jump, we saw lots of trees and crossed numerous streams. The National Park Service has constructed simple wooden bridges across most of the streams. Cottonwood leaves crunched under our feet. Eventually, the trail rose above Salt Creek Canyon. We spotted rock art known as the Paper Dolls, since it looks like a string of figures holding hands. Shortly after, the trail took us back down into the canyon.

We neared the SC4 campsite and decided to check it out and take a short break. It’s a nice large site, with plenty of shade, privacy, and logs to sit on (always important!). Past SC4, the trail becomes harder to navigate, but it follows Salt Creek (more or less) as it winds its way north. About an hour and a half after SC4, we arrived at the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Angel Arch would have to wait, as we wanted to set up camp first.

After this intersection, the trail crosses into the Salt/Horse backpacking zone. This area allows for dispersed camping (best practice is to select a previously established site). We continued north on Salt Creek Trail, and in 0.2 miles we reached the area where we would camp. Formerly known as Angel Arch Camp, it’s an open area that features large cottonwood trees…or at least it did until a wildfire in 2016. According to some forums, the fire may have been caused by humans, but I never found a reliable source. It’s still a nice area to camp, but I imagine it used to be even better with the shade and privacy of the trees. As a reminder, campfires are not permitted in the backcountry.

– A brief historical interlude –

Incredibly, Salt Creek Trail north of the Angel Arch intersection, as well as the trail to Angel Arch, used to be open to motor vehicles. In 1998, the trail was closed by the NPS to protect the habitat and archaeological resources. After years of litigation, the trail has remained closed. It’s almost unthinkable for vehicles to drive through a riparian area which is so important to the delicate ecosystem.

While I’m glad 4WD vehicles are no longer in this part of Salt Creek, we found signs of past use, like scratches on rocks and abnormally wide trails. That said, the area has recovered quite well. Wildlife, like black bears, has started to repopulate the area (mainly in a late-summer migration from the Abajo Mountains). Some vehicle tracks have been overgrown with vegetation. Salt Creek itself has began to run clear, and riparian vegetation has increased.

Day 3 – Angel Arch Trail

After setting up our campsite, we headed back south to the Angel Arch Trail intersection. The trail goes 1.6 miles before reaching the arch. Initially, it was easy to follow, and we found some ruins and pictographs on a nearby cliff. The further we went, the wetter and more difficult to navigate it became.

Curiously, some maps have this trail incorrectly labeled as “Abbey’s Triple Arch Trail,” assumedly dedicated to Edward Abbey. Abbey’s Triple Arch is actually located in The Maze district.

Eventually we spotted Angel Arch. Morning lighting would have been better, since the sun is behind the arch in the afternoon, but this was the only time we’d have to see the arch. Cairns guided us up slickrock, to a rock formation known as “the molar.” It supposedly resembles a tooth, though it looked more like a heart to us.

Behind the molar stands Angel Arch. Its size, unique shape, and remoteness make it impressive. Originally, the formation was named Pegasus Arch until 1963, when it was officially named Angel Arch. There is supposedly a cairned 1.5 mile (round trip) trail that leads to the base of the arch, but we didn’t have the time or energy to do it. Thankfully the sky was a bit cloudy, which helped us get some decent photos.

We had brought our cooking gear with us, so we made dinner and ate while enjoying a view of the arch. It’s a great memory – just the two of us, relaxing and enjoying the beautiful scenery. Next, we headed back the way we came until we reached our campsite. We fell asleep to the gentle, and thankfully brief, rain that fell on our tent.

Day 4 – Angel Arch Camp to Peekaboo

The next morning we woke up to slightly damp ground. It felt cold and dreary initially, but the weather warmed up as the day went on. For the most part, the trail followed Salt Creek, which had places where we could have filtered water if we needed it. The trail opened up into wide, flat sandstone, which was beautiful and fun to hike. The Salt/Horse Zone allows for dispersed camping, and we stumbled upon a few established campsites (see Google Map below). About 1.1 miles beyond Angel Arch Camp, the trail passes right by Crescent Arch, high in the sandstone.

This was also the section where we started running into more people, since it’s possible to day hike here from the Needles Campground. First, we ran into some backpackers who were heading south. As we talked, we learned they were from the DC area too. They had a wide range of campsite permits that had taken them from Lost Canyon into Salt Creek. They mentioned that Peekaboo Trail was particularly scary. We didn’t think anything of the warning at the time, but knew we would be on that trail shortly.

One of the last major pictographs along the trail, the Flying Carpet Panel, is shortly before Peekaboo Arch. We managed to find a spur trail that led to the panel. Unlike earlier pictographs such as the All American Man or Four Faces, this panel is Barrier Canyon style. Another example of this style is The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon. The Flying Carpet Panel features several figures of varying sizes, and neat red handprints. It’s an impressive collection of pictographs.

After hiking about 6.5 miles from Angel Arch Camp, we reached Peekaboo Arch. It’s very unique and looks almost like it was punched out of a fin. The trail goes right through the arch. Formerly, it looped around the entire fin, but that’s no longer the “official” trail. Which is nice, since going through saves about half a mile.

We hiked up the slickrock and passed through the arch. We turned immediately left to admire a well known pictograph next to the opening of the arch. It was created by the Fremont Native Americans. If you look closely, you can see that it was painted over faint red artwork that is even older. Handprints are also nearby. There were a few people here, which was unsurprising since the area is accessible from the Needles Campground.

Looking down, we spotted Peekaboo Camp, a designated campsite. The 4WD road to Peekaboo Camp is only open a few weeks throughout the year based on weather and driving conditions, but we didn’t see any cars nearby, and no one seemed to be camping at Peekaboo that day. We had read about the nearby Peekaboo Spring but weren’t able to find it, but there did seem to be pools of water right before the arch.

Day 4 – Peekaboo Trail

After this point, Salt Creek Road heads north to Cave Spring Trailhead, where we originally planned to end our hike. When we picked up our permit, we had switched our point of exit to the Needles Campground (previously known as Squaw Flat Campground), since we thought hiking on slickrock would be preferable to sand. So instead of heading north, we hiked west from Peekaboo Campsite, onto Peekaboo Trail. The trail ascends onto benches – areas with vertical rock both above and below. The 4.7 mile trail is primarily on slickrock until you reach the campground.

Our first obstacle was a ladder in a crack between fins. Climbing it was a lot of fun, even though our backpacks were a tight fit. Once on top, we spotted a small ruin nearby. As we followed the cairns along the slickrock, the views became more and more impressive. We scrambled up to the benches and ledges above the canyon. At one point, we climbed through a small window in the sandstone.

We continued until we got to an area that seemed sketchy, and recalled the backpackers who told us about this earlier in the day. The narrow, sloped sandstone goes for about 10-15 feet, and has a sheer drop-off. As I started to go across it, my foot slipped. I caught myself and backed up. By this point we were looking around, trying to figure out if this was even the right spot, and were a bit freaked out.

We decided not to risk it and backtracked out of Peekaboo Trail. Our only other option was to hike out to Cave Spring. The trail to Cave Spring is shorter than the hike to the Needles Campground – but our car was parked in the campground. We would need to walk an additional 3.6 miles along the road to reach our car.

Looking at photos of Peekaboo Trail, that narrow area doesn’t look so bad. But I still think we made the right choice for our safety. When hiking and backpacking, it’s vital to trust your instincts and know your limits. Online, it looks like other hikers get past that section just fine, though some blogs mention that it’s scary (a chain or bar would help). Someday, we intend to go back and take another look.

Day 4 – Peekaboo to Cave Spring Trailhead

We headed back toward Peekaboo Campground, our emotions still running pretty high. It was going to be a very long day, so we had to move at a good pace. From there, we went north on Salt Creek Road. It’s flat and obviously used by vehicles. It’s also a huge pain to hike because it’s covered in sand.

I tried to keep a steady pace ahead of Kristin to keep us going. Eventually I tired out, and she took over the lead. The setting sun blazed into our eyes as we tried to find areas with firmer ground. There’s nothing special about the road, but we were more focused on getting out of there than sight-seeing. After 3.4 miles (which seemed like an eternity) we reached the Cave Spring Trailhead.

From there, we hiked an additional 3.6 miles to the campground along a paved road. Once we got back to our car, we were exhausted and it was late. We had hiked around 16 miles that day. We drove back to Moab, grabbed some fast food (from the golden arches), and crashed at our hotel for the night.

The End?

Overall, the trip was an amazing adventure (in spite of our issues with the water filter and Peekaboo Trail). It was one of my favorite trips we’ve ever done, particularly because of the archaeological features. Pictographs like the All American Man and Four Faces are iconic sites that are forever burned into my memory. It was worth all the time it took to plan the route, campsites, and shuttle.

We wish Peekaboo Trail had worked out for us. It’s far more scenic than Salt Creek Road to Cave Spring. The parts of Peekaboo we hiked provided sweeping views, and it was very different compared with the first three days of our trip. If you’re feeling brave, I recommend exiting at the Needles Campground. If you want to play it safe, exit at Cave Spring. A compromise could include a short hike to Peekaboo Trail to see the views and sandstone rims, then exit at Cave Spring.

There’s still more to see in Salt Creek (and the rest of the Needles district). Salt Creek has many side canyons, arches, and other geological features. There are more ruins, pictographs, and petroglyphs out there to find. Someday we plan to go back and explore even more. Until then, I hope this special place stays protected for everyone that visits in the future.

Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (Cathedral Butte to Cave Spring)

Date: Sunday, April 14, 2019 – Wednesday, April 17, 2019
Type: 3-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 28.2 miles (45.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +1093 feet (333 m), -3240 feet (988 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 142 feet (43 m) gain, 1301 feet (397 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC1
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 289 feet (88 m) gain, 555 feet (169 m) loss
  • Time: 8 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC3
• Day 3:
  • Distance: 8.9 miles (14.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 494 feet (151 m) gain, 770 feet (235 m) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring (not including the hour we spent at Angel Arch)
  • Overnight: Salt/Horse Zone (Angel Arch Camp)
• Day 4 (assumes exiting at Cave Spring):
  • Distance: 9.9 miles (15.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 168 feet (51 m) gain, 614 feet (187 m) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring

Trail Markings: Cairns, pink ribbons through the marshy area on the first day
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, small waterfalls, ponds
Highlights: Views, archaeological sites, wildlife, history, waterfalls, geological features
Directions to Cathedral Butte Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: Alternately, you could go the opposite direction, but we highly recommend south to north.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Cathedral Butte Trailhead, go north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 3.9 mi – Pass Kirk Spring on the left, a reliable water source.
• 4.0 mi – Pass Kirk’s Cabin on the right.
• 4.1 mi – Turn right onto the spur to SC1 and SC2. The spur then splits to each individual campsite.
• 4.3 mi – Arrive at SC1/SC2. In the morning, retrace your steps back to Salt Creek Trail.
• 4.4 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail, heading north.
• 6.3 mi – Wedding Ring Arch is nearby. Find a social trail that avoids cryptobiotic soil if you’d like to get closer.
• 8.2 mi – The trail passes close by the All American Man Pictograph.
• 8.8 mi – Cross over Salt Creek, and Four Faces Spring, another great place for water. Right before the spring is the Four Faces Pictograph and ruins.
• 9.4 mi – A small spur trail leads to the SC3 campsite. Stay the night, then continue north on Salt Creek Trail in the morning.
• 12.5 mi – Pass by the spur trail to the SC4 campsite.
• 14.4 mi – You’ve reached the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 14.6 mi – Reach Angel Arch Camp. You can set up your tent here, or wherever you prefer since this is part of the Salt/Horse Dispersed Camping Zone. Just remember, the best site is found, not created. After setting up camp, head back south to the Angel Arch intersection.
• 14.9 mi – Turn left onto Angel Arch Trail.
• 16.5 mi – You’ve arrived at the Molar and Angel Arch. Enjoy! If desired, take the social trail (some scrambling required) to the base of the arch. Head back along Angel Arch Trail when ready.
• 18.1 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail.
• 18.3 mi – Arrive back at your campsite. In the morning, continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 24.8 mi – You’ve arrived at Peekaboo Arch. Continue on the trail, and go through the arch in the fin. Peekaboo Camp, as well as some petroglyphs, are on the other side. Hike through the camp, and continue north on Salt Creek Road.
• 28.2 mi – Salt Creek Road ends at Cave Spring Trailhead, where hopefully you have a car waiting for you. You’re done!

Places

• Cathedral Butte | 37.952721, -109.698471
• Cave Spring | 38.149672, -109.755018
• The Needles Campground | 38.149594, -109.792086
• Kirk Spring | 37.983303, -109.745977
• Kirk Cabin | 37.985556, -109.743722
• SC1 Campsite | 37.98435, -109.74228
• SC2 Campsite | 37.98604, -109.74163
• Wedding Ring Arch | 38.01104, -109.74082
• Four Faces Spring | 38.03934, -109.76152
• SC3 Campsite | 38.03909, -109.76403
• Upper Jump | 38.043318, -109.764622
• SC4 Campsite | 38.055420, -109.770040
• Angel Arch Camp | 38.069867, -109.766616
• Angel Arch | 38.05203, -109.75681
• Peekaboo Camp | 38.114878, -109.754435

Maps

• Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (KTNP)
• The Needles District (NPS)
• The Needles Backcountry Zone Map (NPS)

Links

• NPS
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Permits (recreation.gov)
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Regulations (NPS)
  • Salt Creek Archaeology (NPS)
  • American Indians in Canyonlands (NPS)
• History of Trail
  • NPS Action and History on Salt Creek Canyon Road in 2004 (federalregister.gov)
  • NPS Environmental Assessment : Middle Salt Creek Canyon Access Plan from 2002 (Utah State University)

Planning Resources

• Salt Creek Canyon Trail (UtahTrails)
• Coyote Shuttle
• Books
  • Canyonlands National Park Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails by David Day
  • Hiking, Biking and Exploring Canyonlands National Park and Vicinity by Michael Kelsey

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon appeared first on KTNPBlog.

One trail we wanted to hike in Canyonlands National Park was the Syncline Loop. It’s an 8.3 mile route that surrounds Upheaval Dome in the Island in the Sky District. The trail is long and difficult, so unfortunately we didn’t have the time to do the hike. Instead, we decided to do Upheaval Dome Trail, a short 1.6 mile out and back hike. The path goes to two overlooks with views of Upheaval Dome. We hoped it would give us a glimpse of what the Syncline Loop would offer.

What is Upheaval Dome? I’m glad you asked. It’s an area roughly three miles across where the rock layers are deformed. In the center, the rocks are pushed up into a dome-like structure (an anticline). A downward fold in the rock (or syncline) surrounds the dome. What caused it? No one is quite sure, but there are two prevailing theories. The first is that it is an impact crater caused by a meteorite hitting the Earth. The second is that it’s a salt dome, where salt flows while under pressure and creates deformities in the surrounding rock over millions of years. Most recent research supports the impact crater hypothesis.

First Overlook

After checking out Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte, we drove to the end of Upheaval Dome Road. We parked in the lot for Upheaval Dome and the Syncline Loop. The trail begins on the west side of the lot. After starting the hike, we came to an intersection with Syncline Loop Trail almost immediately. It would have to wait for another time, so we kept going straight on Upheaval Dome Trail.

The trail started to ascend. The first overlook is only 0.3 miles from the intersection, so it took no time at all to get there. Situated on a large sandstone rock face, the first overlook gave us an initial view of the dome.

Greenish rocks surround a red rock formation inside the crater. We later talked to a ranger who said the green color was caused by iron, while the red is due to oxidation (rust). It looks otherworldly, but also familiar. A nearby sign gives some geological information about Upheaval Dome. Even though there are only two official “overlooks,” there are plenty of other opportunities for views into Upheaval Dome.

Second Overlook

Following rock cairns along the trail, we ascended and descended over more sandstone. The second overlook is only half a mile from the first. In places, small steps had been cut into some sandstone to assist hikers. We admonished a small boy who was rolling rocks down the sandstone. Normally, we might not say anything, but…it seemed pretty dangerous.

Surrounded by metal fencing, the second overlook was much like the first. It didn’t offer a radically different view. So if time is short, you could skip the second overlook. Nearby I found some spring wildflowers, including Indian paintbrush, which I was more interested in.

While I’m glad we did Upheaval Dome, I wasn’t particularly impressed with the hike overall. It was very cool to see the dome initially, but the hike got kind of same-y after the first overlook. The views are interesting, and I did enjoy the geology and mystery of its formation. Even though I wasn’t wowed by this trail, I’d still like to go back to do the Syncline Loop someday…maybe as a one-night backpacking trip!

Upheaval Dome Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 462 feet (141 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: Moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History
Directions to Upheaval Dome Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head north toward the Upheaval Dome Trailhead. Start on the trail, and after 250 feet, continue straight at the intersection with the Syncline Trail to continue on the Upheaval Dome Trail.
• 0.3 mi – A short (~180 feet) side trail to the right leads to the first overlook. After checking it out, head back the way you came and turn right to continue.
• 0.9 mi – At the end of the trail is the second overlook. When ready, turn around and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – The hike is finished!

Places

• Upheaval Dome | 38.437492, -109.928600
• First Overlook | 38.428919, -109.929169
• Second Overlook | 38.431669, -109.935347

Maps

• Upheaval Dome Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Upheaval Dome (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Upheaval Dome Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

A butte is a striking rock formation, defined as an isolated steep hill with often vertical sides and a flat top. It was time for us to hike to one in Canyonlands National Park. Aztec Butte is a 1.6-mile out and back that leads to the top of a butte, with a side trail to see some Puebloan ruins. We were particularly looking forward to the archeological features of the area. The drive to the Aztec Butte trailhead was only about a mile from Mesa Arch Trail, which we had just hiked.

The parking lot was fairly empty, especially compared to Mesa Arch, so we anticipated more solitude. The trail is rocky at the start, before giving way to a sandy path. After a short 0.3 miles, we reached the first intersection. Taking a right would lead us directly to Aztec Butte, but we turned left toward the Puebloan granary ruins on a separate, smaller butte. The trail took us up some slickrock, and gave us a view into Taylor Canyon in the distance. Rock cairns guided us to the granaries, which are sheltered by a rock ledge.

Alongside the ruins are some informative park signs. We learned that Ancestral Puebloans stored pots and baskets containing food, water, and seeds to be protected in the granary. We explored and took some photos. Built between 1200 and 1300 AD, the two granaries we saw seem to be well preserved. On a side note, please remember not to touch or enter them.

After checking out the granaries, we retraced our steps and continued on the main trail. At the base of Aztec Butte, we were greeted by a steep 200 foot ascent. The sandstone is beautiful, with striations in shades of red, white, and brown. It was totally exposed to the sun as we climbed, but it’s a short and enjoyable route with some scenic views.

A vaguely defined trail loops around the top of Aztec Butte. Along the loop are other structures. Some might be authentic, but others may have been constructed more recently – we didn’t see any signs at the top to explain the history, though. For example, a four-walled stone structure sits at the southeast corner of the butte.

There are other ruins scattered around the butte, but some are harder to find than others. We didn’t know it at the time, but there are granaries just below the west ridge of the butte. After exploring more, we headed back the way we came. We pondered why the site is called Aztec Butte, and thought it might be a misnomer, but we haven’t been able find a source explaining its name.

Both Aztec Butte and Mesa Arch are fun hikes with sweeping views, though they are very different. We preferred Aztec Butte Trail since it’s a longer hike with fewer crowds and a rich history. And as a bonus, we kept joking about how “butte-iful” the area is.

Aztec Butte Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 283 feet (86 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: A few other groups
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head east on Aztec Butte Trail.
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection, turn left toward the Puebloan Granaries.
• 0.4 mi – Arrive at the granaries. Explore, then head back the way you came.
• 0.6 mi – Back at the intersection, turn left toward Aztec Butte. You’ll ascend about 190 feet to the top.
• 0.8 mi – Arrive at the top of Aztec Butte. Head either way on the vaguely defined loop trail.
• 1.0 mi – Back at the start of the loop. Go back the way you came to descend.
• 1.3 mi – At the intersection with the granaries, go straight back toward the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Aztec Butte | 38.397298, -109.874844

Maps

• Aztec Butte Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Aztec Butte Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Aztec Butte Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

After setting up our tent at Willow Flat Campground in Canyonlands National Park, it was time to go hiking! We were in Island in the Sky, the most easily accessible district of the park. The two closest hikes to the campground are Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte. We planned to hike both, and we started with Mesa Arch Trail.

If you’ve ever seen a photo of Canyonlands, odds are it was of Mesa Arch. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the park. The arch is situated on the edge of a cliff, with a view of canyons, mountains, and other rock formations beyond. It’s also a popular place for sunrise photos – time it right and you can frame the sun as it rises through the arch. We weren’t too concerned about getting a sunrise shot, but we still got there early in the morning.

We found a parking spot, and started down the dusty trail. The route is an easy 0.7 mile loop, and it was crowded. Almost immediately, the canyons and snow-capped La Sal Mountains became visible in the distance. We passed several small signs with information about various native plants. I enjoy seeing these on trails, since it helps me learn more about the flora in the area.

Mesa Arch

After 10-15 minutes of hiking, we arrived at the 27 foot long Mesa Arch. It features a wide scenic view into Buck Canyon. I think the arches in Arches National Park are more picturesque (who would’ve thought?), though the view here is striking. From the canyon to the rock formations to the La Sal Mountains, there are so many sights to take in. Mesa Arch frames the canyon landscape beautifully. If you look closely toward the east from Mesa Arch, you can also see Washer Woman Arch.

There was a crowd of people waiting to take a picture with the arch, so we got in line. Unfortunately, there were a few people who didn’t seem to care about the line, and they just walked up to the arch and got their photos. We weren’t too surprised. It’s more likely that you’ll run into visitors who are unfamiliar with hiking etiquette on easy, short, popular trails. This was completely different from the experience we had at the challenging 3.2 mile trail to Delicate Arch.

Mesa Arch is a “pothole arch” that formed when water on the ground pooled near sandstone, slowly eroding it until it formed a hole. This arch looks different from most of the ones found in Arches NP because those are primarily formed from sandstone fins (there are many fins in Arches NP, but significantly fewer in Canyonlands).

After we finally got our photo with Mesa Arch, we walked around and admired the scenery before continuing on. After a short walk, which included some stone steps and more plant signs, we completed the loop and returned to the parking lot. Near the end, we could see our next destination in the distance: Aztec Butte. While Mesa Arch was a must-see for us, we don’t consider it one of the best hikes in the park. And after hiking it, we were ready for a longer and more challenging hike, with more solitude.

Mesa Arch Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Loop day hike
Total Distance: 0.7 miles (1.1 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 94 feet (29 m)
Time: 1 hour, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A lot. Everywhere.
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, Plants
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – At the trailhead, go counterclockwise (right path). You could go either direction on the loop though.
• 0.3 mi – Arrive at Mesa Arch, then continue back on the trail to complete the loop.
• 0.7 mi – Arrive back at the parking lot

Places

• Mesa Arch | 38.3885673, -109.8668391
• Washer Woman Arch | 38.388989, -109.837127

Maps

• Isle in the Sky Map (NPS)

Links

• Mesa Arch (NPS)
• Washer Woman Arch (Wikipedia)
• Airport Tower (Wikipedia)
• Monster Tower (Wikipedia)

Interactive Map

The post Mesa Arch Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

It was our last full day in Arches National Park, and we wanted to go out with a bang. We decided to do the only day hike in the park that requires a permit. Fiery Furnace is mazelike due to its many tall sandstone fins. It’s a set route but not quite a trail. GPS doesn’t work well within the narrow canyons, and maps are useless here, too. It’s located deep inside the park, near the Devils Garden area.

The park offers seasonal ranger-led tours through Fiery Furnace (typically April through September), but that wasn’t an option since we visited in March. The other option is to request a permit and hike it on your own, so we decided to give it a shot. While there is no obvious trail, tiny arrow markers trace out a counter-clockwise loop through Fiery Furnace. We would follow these to form an approximately 1.2 mile loop with numerous side trails to explore. It’s challenging, and we ended up getting lost a couple times.

Hiking Permits and Orientations

A limited number of permits are available each day, and can be acquired up to seven days in advance. When we visited, permits had to be obtained in person at the visitor center. As of 2021, visitors must reserve their spot online at Recreation.gov or by calling 1-877-444-6777. You’ll still need to stop by the visitor center to get your permit and attend orientation, but this system makes it a little easier to plan.

Luckily, we were in the area for five days, so we had some wiggle room, but we wanted to get our permit as soon as possible. The visitor center was already closed when we arrived in the park, so we headed back the next morning. At 9 a.m., there was already a line of people filling out forms for permits. We requested our permit for three days later, and they had a spot available for us!

Next, we waited for the mandatory orientation to begin (Note: all visitors entering Fiery Furnace must be present for orientation). The rangers directed us, and 20 or 30 other people, into a room. First, we watched a video, mostly about common sense things – walk in washes or on slick rock. Avoid cryptobiotic soil. Avoid walking on sand dunes (we didn’t know this one, but it makes sense). After that, a ranger quizzed us, then asked if anyone had done the route before. One person had hiked Fiery Furnace in the summer, and said it was too hot, so they were glad they had planned a trip in the spring. After a lively discussion, we went to pay the $6 per person permit fee.

Fiery Furnace Trailhead

We decided to hike Fiery Furnace in the afternoon because we thought there would be fewer people (spoiler alert: we were right). The small parking lot was almost full when we arrived around 3 p.m., but it seemed like most visitors just come to check out an overlook. Some people parked, walked to the trailhead, noticed the sign stating that a permit was required, and turned back.

Another group of hikers approached as we headed down the path. After chatting with them, we realized we were going the wrong direction! Whoops. We backtracked to the trailhead, and found the trail we missed – immediately downhill and to the right. The park ranger specifically told us where the hike begins during the orientation, but somehow it still slipped our minds.

Arrows and Arches

Initially, the trail is obvious and intuitive. We went down a hill, on a narrow sandy trail with some light rock scrambling. At the bottom, we entered a wash. Across the trail was a post with a small arrow (our first one!) pointing left. We headed that way, and a few more arrows guided us. Spotting the arrows was like a scavenger hunt.

After walking a bit further, we came to a sign that read “Dead End Ahead.” The park rangers at the visitor center told us about these. Occasionally, these signs tell hikers that they’ve missed an arrow – but you can go beyond them and explore. That’s the whole point of Fiery Furnace – to have an adventure that’s more flexible than a set trail.

Beyond the dead end sign, the wash continues. We saw a space between the fins to our left, and went to check it out. We were amazed to find a narrow sandy canyon, with a small arch in the distance. It felt like we were the first to discover the arch – even though the footprints around it suggested otherwise. We didn’t know at the time, but the arch is called Walk Through Bridge. There are tons of arches scattered around in Fiery Furnace; if you go on a ranger-led hike, you may see more than we did.

In the afternoon, the red glow that gives Fiery Furnace its name was in full display. As we enjoyed the scenery, we continued through the arch. After reaching a dead end, we headed back to the main trail and found the arrow we had missed. It pointed us through a narrow pathway with tall sandstone fins on either side. We continued until we found another arrow and behind it was a wash with another dead end sign, so we decided to explore some more.

As we followed the wash, we indeed came to a dead end. Since we had been rewarded last time, we backtracked until we saw a narrow space between two fins. We squeezed in, and carefully crawled to avoid hitting our heads. In 50 to 100 feet, we found ourselves again at the dead end, but higher up on some previously inaccessible slickrock. Another arch called Inner Sanctum Bridge was directly in front of us.

Getting Lost

We returned to the main trail. Following the arrows, we jumped from rock to rock and bounded up inclines. One narrow area required us to scramble with our hands and feet on opposite sides of the slickrock. By about 4 p.m., we were hungry, so we found a spot to grab a snack and relax for a bit. We were surprised we still hadn’t run into anyone along the route.

After our break, we started looking for the next arrow. We searched for about half an hour, with no luck. Every possibility seemed to be a dead end or an unsafe drop. Just as we started getting anxious, we revisited an area we had already looked at multiple times. It led to an open cliff, which we had dismissed before. This time, we finally spotted one of the inconspicuous arrows. Footholds are chiseled into the sandstone nearby, which should have been a clue.

The arrow pointed us to a narrow area surrounded by sandstone formations. This led to an open area with large fins all around. We followed another arrow until we hit a dead end (about 0.2 miles). After doubling back, we spotted the arrow we had missed. Exploring, checking out views, taking photos, and generally enjoying ourselves often led us to overlook the arrows. The fun and challenging wayfinding aspect of this hike gave Fiery Furnace a different vibe than most we’ve done. See if you can spot the arrows in some of the photos below.

The End

The next arrow led us into a narrow crack in the sandstone and down some stairs. After this point, the trail was easy to follow and started leading us away from Fiery Furnace. After walking through a sandy area with shrubs, we were back at the trailhead. It was a short drive into Moab for some delicious pho at 98 Center.

Some tips: Bring food and plenty of water. Bring a headlamp if you’re hiking later in the day (just in case). Pay attention at the orientation, as you won’t be able to rely on maps to navigate through Fiery Furnace. Consider the time of day you choose to visit. We enjoyed hiking in the afternoon – the lighting was spectacular, and we saw no other visitors except one group at the start. However, in retrospect we wished we had arrived a bit earlier so that we had more time to explore.

Hiking without a guide offered more adventure and solitude. If we had time, we could have explored all day. However, a ranger-led tour would have given us insight about the area, and allowed us to see additional features such as Skull Arch and Surprise Arch. The tour visits these, but we didn’t know where they were, so we missed out.

Fiery Furnace was a blast – from exploring, to scrambling, and even getting lost! Arches has lots of interesting hikes, but this one is particularly unique and mysterious. We enjoyed it so much that we considered hiking it again the following year when we returned to the area, but decided against it in favor of a new hike. Some day we will be back though. We snapped a lot of photos, but they really don’t capture the essence of Fiery Furnace – you have to go there and experience it.

Fiery Furnace

Date: Wednesday, March 28, 2018
Type: Loop day hike
Total Distance: ~1.2 miles (1.9 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: ~684 feet (208 m)
Time: 3 hours, including exploring, breaks, and getting lost
Trail Markings: Small arrows
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: One other group near the trailhead
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, Adventure
Directions to Fiery Furnace Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: Distance and elevation gain are estimated, and don’t include any of the side routes, exploring, or getting lost! We don’t include a topographic map, as it wouldn’t be very helpful – and exploring is part of the fun!

Places

• Walk Through Bridge | 38.74345, -109.56145 (estimated)
• Inner Sanctum Bridge | 38.74268, -109.55957(estimated)
• Skull Arch | 38.74506, -109.56046 (estimated)
• Kissing Turtles Arch | 38.7449, -109.5613 (estimated)
• Surprise Arch | 38.74788, -109.56473 (estimated)

Links

• Fiery Furnace Hike (NPS)
• Self-Guided Fiery Furnace Permits (Recreation.gov)
• Ranger-Guided Fiery Furnace Permits (Recreation.gov)

Interactive Map

The post Fiery Furnace appeared first on KTNPBlog.

When I think of Arches National Park, the iconic Delicate Arch immediately comes to mind. It’s the largest freestanding arch in the park. Images of it are everywhere – on tourism literature, Utah license plates, and more. And it was finally time for us to visit it. Frank Beckwith, the leader of a scientific expedition in the area between 1933–1934 is credited with naming the arch. And it is delicate. Some day Delicate Arch, formed by erosion of a sandstone fin, will fall.

The main 3.2 mile round-trip trail to the famous arch is, not surprisingly, very crowded. We went in the afternoon, but if you go very early in the morning or later in the evening, you may avoid some of the crowds. Besides Delicate Arch, there are nearby petroglyphs and the defunct Wolfe Ranch. Two additional trails to a lower and higher viewpoint are also nearby. They’re both easy hikes, so we decided to check them out first.

Lower and Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoints

The parking lot for the Upper and Lower Viewpoint Trails is a mile east of Delicate Arch Trail. The trail splits at the start, and we headed right to the lower viewpoint. The lower trail is only 0.1 mile. It’s an ADA trail, so it’s an easy hike on level terrain. However, the view isn’t that impressive since the arch is so far away, but if you don’t hike the main trail at least there’s this option. After checking that out, we went back to the split and headed onto the Upper Viewpoint Trail.

Getting to the upper viewpoint requires a 10-15 minute uphill climb with minimal scrambling. The trail is only 0.6 miles round-trip. It’s cool to get another glimpse of the arch, but again, not that impressive from this far away. It’s impossible to get to Delicate Arch from this area, as there’s a canyon called Winter Camp Wash in between. These trails don’t offer much more than a view, so if you plan to hike Delicate Arch Trail, you can skip them. We headed back to our car to drive to the main trail.

Delicate Arch Trail and Wolfe Ranch

It was time for the main trail to Delicate Arch. We arrived at the huge parking lot around 3:30 pm, and thankfully there was still parking. As we began the trail, we saw log cabins in front of us. This is Wolfe Ranch, settled by John Wesley Wolfe and his family around 1898. They were drawn to the area by a nearby freshwater spring. The Wolfe family lived on the property until they moved to Moab in 1910. The ranch was sold, and eventually purchased by the US government as part of Arches National Monument.

As we approached the ranch, we saw two buildings and a nearby corral. Old farm equipment lay scattered around. Visitors can’t enter or touch either building, but you can explore the grounds and look into the larger cabin through a screen door. It was built in 1906, when John’s daughter, Flora, moved to the area. Six people slept in the one-room cabin. Interestingly, Flora took the first known photograph of Delicate Arch in 1906.

After checking out the buildings, we continued along the trail and crossed Salt Wash. There was some water flowing but not a substantial amount. Seasonal flooding from the wash will occasionally close the road to Delicate Arch. The park is currently working on removing an invasive non-native plant called tamarisk that contributes to the flooding. We assume the water in the creek isn’t potable because of salt content, but we haven’t been able to confirm.

Immediately after the bridge, we turned left at a sign that simply said “Petroglyphs.” A short side trail leads to Ute Native American petroglyphs. They were inscribed sometime between 1650 and 1850, and they resemble horses and bighorn sheep. The area directly in front is fenced off so we could only get so close. It’s interesting to think about the people who carved them and their meaning.

Delicate Arch Trail

We rejoined the main trail, and started ascending a paved incline, which afforded us some views back to the Salt Wash area where we had just been. Reaching the top, we saw the trail dip down, then go up a huge sandstone slope. Large groups of people moved steadily onward.

There was no shade and it was getting pretty hot as we climbed. Please bring water; we saw people without it as they hiked. At the top of the uphill portion, we reached an area with some random cairns that people had made, next to a sign that pointed in the direction of the trail. (Note: creating cairns goes against the principles of Leave No Trace. This disturbs the natural landscape and can be confusing to hikers).

At this point, we followed the crowd since there were so many other hikers on the trail. Eventually we made it to a natural sandstone bowl. Directly across it was Delicate Arch! But there was no way for us to get to the arch from this direction (not easily at least). We realized we had missed a cairn and were on the wrong side of a sandstone fin. That’s what we get for following the crowd and not the cairns. Initially we tried to find our way up to Delicate Arch from here, but the route was sketchy, so we decided to backtrack instead. It was still cool to see a different view of the arch.

We backtracked until we found the trail again. It weaved around to the other side of the fin, where the path narrowed to three feet wide. A steep dropoff was on our left. It’s generally wide enough for two people, and it didn’t bother us, but I had read some visitors find it scary.

To our right was a slickrock incline that led to a small arch, called Frame Arch (also called Twisted Donut Arch). You’ll see why if you look through it – it literally frames Delicate Arch, so it’s a great place to take a photo. Unfortunately, there was a short line of people waiting for the same opportunity. It took about 10 minutes for one visitor to finish what they were doing before we could get an unobstructed view.

In 2016, someone carved their name into Frame Arch, severely damaging it. Thankfully, the park service was able to repair some of the damage by filling in the carving. But it’s still depressing that they had to do that in the first place. As a reminder, please leave no trace!

Delicate Arch

Continuing along the ledge, we ascended. As we came around a big rock, we immediately saw Delicate Arch. It seems to appear out of nowhere; you can’t see it from a distance as you approach like other arches. There were a lot of people scattered around the area, quietly observing the arch. Delicate Arch itself sits on the southeastern end of the bowl that we were at earlier.

Before we hiked the trail, Kristin wondered what the fuss was about. Now she understood the hype. Delicate Arch is a large, unique, freestanding formation, and the trail is challenging and enjoyable. We were glad we visited when we did, as the snowcapped La Sal Mountains provided a gorgeous backdrop for the iconic arch.

Nearby, visitors waited to get a photo with Delicate Arch. Everyone was quiet and respectful, which was much appreciated. After getting a close-up shot, we sat down and spent some time with the arch and got to know it a bit better. Before we knew it, it was time to go. We headed back the way we came. It was a bit scarier walking along the right side close to the ledge on the way down. After the hike, we drove to Moab and ate dinner at Milt’s – a super casual burger and fries type place that we recommend.

Delicate Arch is a treasure, so don’t miss it. The trail is somewhat difficult, and you’ll be surrounded by quite a few people, but it’s worth it. If you’re concerned about the crowds, try hiking it very early or later in the day. We loved the uniqueness of both the trail and the arch, and intend to visit again someday.

Delicate Arch Trail

Date: Tuesday, March 27, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 3.2 miles (5.2 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 743 feet (227 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including breaks
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: A lot everywhere
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, Petroglyphs, History
Directions to Delicate Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water. Try to hike in the morning or evening to avoid crowds.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot head east on Delicate Arch Trail
• 0.1 mi – Turn left toward Wolfe Ranch. The trail will loop around the cabins, and back onto Delicate Arch Trail.
• 0.2 mi – Take another left toward the petroglyphs. The trail will loop past the inscriptions and rejoin the main trail.
• 0.9 mi – Begin ascending a large sandstone slope.
• 1.5 mi – Arrive at Frame Arch, and stop to check out the view of Delicate Arch through it. Shortly after Frame Arch is a narrow ledge that leads to Delicate Arch.
• 1.7 mi – Stop and enjoy Delicate Arch. Then return along Delicate Arch Trail.
• 3.2 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Wolfe Ranch | 38.736371, -109.519721
• Ute Petroglyphs | 38.73751, -109.51864
• Frame Arch (Also known as Twisted Donut Arch) | 38.744037, -109.501137
• Delicate Arch | 38.743594, -109.499281

Maps

• Delicate Arch Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Wolfe Ranch (NPS)
• Historical First Photo of Delicate Arch by Flora Stanley, 1906 (NPGallery)
• Removing Tamarisk at Salt Wash (NPS)
• Frame Arch Graffiti (NPS)
• Delicate Arch (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Delicate Arch Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

It was going to be a busy day in Arches National Park. We decided to hike two trails, including Delicate Arch. But we started with the less strenuous Windows Section. The area boasts numerous arches, and a fairly short trail leads to North Window, South Window, and Turret Arch. Double Arch is also nearby – it’s unique in that it has two arches that share a central pillar. We decided to explore them all.

The trails to the Windows and Double Arch are fairly easy. For the Windows, we did a 1.2 mile loop trail, including a primitive trail that goes around the “back.” Even though it’s labeled as more difficult, it’s still relatively easy terrain. The trail to Double Arch is only 0.25 miles one-way, and you can see the arch from the parking lot. If you take the route we did, including the Windows, primitive trail, and Double Arch, it’s about 1.8 miles.

From Moab, our drive was about 40 minutes. After passing Balanced Rock on the main park road, we turned right onto a side road to get to the Windows area, then headed to the nearby parking lot. The Windows Loop Trail is to the east, and Double Arch is to the west.

Turret Arch

We chose to start with Windows Loop Trail, and headed toward Turret Arch, which is about a ten minute walk. It’s made up of one large arch and one smaller arch. Visitors can scramble through Turret Arch, and it’s always nice to get a photo from both angles. The arch is aptly named, because it looks like a castle.

The level, gravel trails are windy and interspersed, so we had to backtrack in order to see everything. And there are many features to see in the Windows area. As always, we made sure to avoid stepping on cryptobiotic soil.

North and South Windows

Our next stop was the North Window, which was a short walk from Turret Arch. On the way, we could see both the North and South Windows. Both “windows” are part of the same sandstone fin. Between the arches is a rock formation known as Nose Bridge. When viewed together, the two windows and bridge are known as “The Spectacles,” as they look like a pair of glasses. We walked underneath the North Window, but couldn’t go any farther as there’s a cliff on the other side. Looking through the arch toward the northeast, we saw the canyons of Salt Wash and beyond.

The nearby South Window was next. This one is high up on a cliffside, so we enjoyed it from below. Compared with the other formations, there were fewer people here. It was breezy , so we didn’t stand around for too long.

Primitive Trail

As we took a break by the South Window, another couple asked if we knew where the primitive trail, which loops back to the parking lot, begins. We weren’t sure, but we began looking since we planned to take it too. Turns out it starts to the right of the South Window. It’s a bit hidden, but is marked by a cairn near the base of the fin.

So, we headed down the primitive trail. While it isn’t the most exciting hike, there are some nice views along the way. One of my favorite parts was seeing both windows simultaneously, and from a different angle. Even though it’s called a “primitive trail,” it’s not hard (this was nothing like our experience at Devils Garden, for example). There’s minimal scrambling, but otherwise it’s a short, easy trail with plenty of wayfinding cairns. And we had more solitude on this section of the hike.

Double Arch

The primitive trail led us back to the parking lot, where we turned right toward Double Arch Trailhead. From there, it took us about ten minutes to get to Double Arch – it’s easy, level, and crowded. To the left is a sandstone formation called Parade of Elephants, and we could see the resemblance. A couple arches are also hidden in the rocks.

Double Arch’s height and span are impressive – it’s the tallest in the park, and the third widest. It was fascinating to learn that the arch started out as a pothole in the sandstone, and formed as water eroded the rock over time. Relaxing under this formation was a special experience. Since there are two arches, it’s almost like being a kid hiding in a fort. We sat on some rocks underneath it, ate a snack, and then climbed further up on some rock outcrops behind it. It was very crowded though, considering its proximity to the parking lot. Low effort, big payoff.

We enjoyed both of these hikes, and Double Arch was my favorite arch we’d seen so far. These trails might be a good bet if you are looking for quick, easy walks and multiple rock formations. The Windows Loop primitive trail even provides some solitude, though there are more interesting trails and features elsewhere in the park. Our next stop: Delicate Arch.

Windows Loop and Double Arch Trails

Date: Tuesday, March 27, 2018
Type: Day hike
Total Distance: 1.8 mi (2.9 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +381 feet (116 m), -431 feet (131 m)
Time: 2 hours, including breaks
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns (on primitive trail)
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: Heavy near Turret and Double Arches, and the Windows. Few on the primitive trail.
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views
Directions to Windows Parking: Google Maps Directions
Notes: There are multiple ways to see the features mentioned above, so feel free to explore

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head south to the Windows Trailhead. Look for the trailhead sign.
• 0.1 mi – At the intersection, turn right toward Turret Arch.
• 0.2 mi – The trail passes Turret Arch, and you can stop to scramble and explore it.
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection between the windows, continue straight toward the North Window.
• 0.4 mi – Arrive at North Window. Check it out, then turn around and go back the same way.
• 0.5 mi – Back at the intersection between the two Windows. Turn left toward South Window and arrive there shortly. At the base of the South Window, follow the trail to the right toward the primitive trail. Cairns will help guide you.
• 1.2 mi – Primitive trail ends at the parking lot. Turn right and follow the road to Double Arch Trailhead.
• 1.3 mi – At the Double Arch Trailhead. You can see the arch from the trailhead.
• 1.5 mi – Arrive at Double Arch. Enjoy it, then head back the same way.
• 1.8 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Turret Arch | 38.684249, -109.534913
• North Arch | 38.685686, -109.532856
• South Arch | 38.684996, -109.532504
• Double Arch | 38.691531, -109.540308
• Parade of Elephants | 38.690017, -109.541318

Maps

• Windows and Double Arch Trails (KTNP)

Links

• Explore the Windows (NPS)
• Stroll to Double Arch (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Windows Loop and Double Arch Trails appeared first on KTNPBlog.

This is the big one – the longest maintained trail in Arches National Park. The one with the most arches. And the second-most crowded (beat only by Delicate Arch Trail). Devils Garden Trail is a full-day hike, and worth every minute. The featured arch on the hike is Landscape Arch, the longest in North America. There are also six other main arches, a large obelisk called Dark Angel, and a few other formations that aren’t as well advertised.

The trail forms a lollipop loop, with several side trails. There are many ways you can hike Devils Garden – a short out and back (to Landscape Arch), longer out and back (to Double O Arch), or hiking the entire Primitive Loop Trail. If you’ve read our other posts, you probably already know we planned to do the whole 7.8 mile trail, including the primitive loop along with every arch and feature we could find.

Devils Garden Trail

After our last night in Devils Garden Campground, we headed to the nearby trail with the same name. The trailhead is located at the north end of the main park road, but it’s only 0.3 miles from the campground. When we arrived in the massive parking lot around 9am, it was already packed with visitors. It takes awhile to get to the trailhead from the park entrance, so plan to leave extra early if you’re staying outside the park.

It was a sunny, yet cool morning – perfect for starting an all day hike. This was one trail that we had really been looking forward to, so we were excited as we approached the trailhead. A trail guide was available to purchase for $0.50, so we grabbed one. The brochure provides a map, details on hike options, and information about the area. The same guide is also available online as a PDF from the National Park Service. Our feet hit the graded gravel trail and we were off. Our first destinations were Tunnel and Pine Tree Arches. Both are located on short spurs off the main trail.

Tunnel and Pine Tree Arches

Initially the path takes you through some large fins, which is a dramatic start. The hike doesn’t have much shade, so a hat and sunscreen are a must. Layers are also helpful – we had jackets since it was cool, but the weather would warm up significantly. After a quarter mile, we turned right onto a side trail to check out our first two arches.

We headed downhill, and the trail split again to the left and right. First, we took the trail on the right to Tunnel Arch. A short distance down the trail, we started looking for the arch. It took a little bit of searching, but we saw it off towards our right in the distance. Unless the lighting and angle are ideal, it can be difficult to spot. We couldn’t get close to this one, as it’s high up and off the trail. Then we turned around and went the other way to Pine Tree Arch.

On the way to the nearby Pine Tree Arch, we had views of fins and the prairie to the north. Before we knew it, we were walking through the large arch, which has several pine trees at its base. Walking through an arch gives you a different vantage point, which we appreciated. After admiring the rock formation, we backtracked until we were back on the main Devils Garden Trail.

Landscape Arch

As we enjoyed prairie views, we continued on to Landscape Arch. It was an easy walk on the level path. Just before reaching the arch, we passed an inconspicuous sign on the right, letting us know we were already technically on the Primitive Loop Trail. We were surprised, since the terrain was still relatively flat. Nearby, we spotted Landscape Arch – seemingly the most popular formation on this trail. Like many arches, it was named by Frank Beckwith during his 1933-1934 exploration of the area.

We observed Landscape Arch from a small viewing platform on the right side – that’s as close as you can get for safety reasons. The arch is visually appealing, and its shape and size make it seem like an amazing feat of nature. It’s the longest arch in the United States, and the fifth longest in the world. It’s only six feet wide at its narrowest – and it looks even narrower over the 306-foot wide opening.

Landscape Arch is fenced off since it’s so fragile and potentially dangerous. In September 1991, a large chunk of sandstone detached and fell to the ground. More pieces fell in June of 1995, and we spotted the remnants below the arch. Interestingly, visitors could walk under the arch prior to those events. I’m okay with having missed that opportunity in this case.

As we looked at Landscape Arch, we noticed a smaller arch beyond it on the right. That’s Partition Arch, which the trail would lead to later. While looking at a map to confirm, a man asked us if we knew where to find Wall Arch, which he’d seen years ago. We had never heard of it, and it wasn’t on our map. After our trip, we decided to do some research. It turns out there had been another nearby formation called Wall Arch, but it collapsed in 2008. Just like all national parks, Arches NP reflects the constantly changing natural world – though sometimes the changes here can be a bit more dramatic.

Partition and Navajo Arches

Many visitors choose to turn around at Landscape Arch, but the trail continues. A nearby sign reads “Caution Primitive Trail – Difficult Hiking.” At this point, the trail transitions from a graded gravel trail to more challenging and varied terrain. There are steeps slopes, scrambling, and potential water crossings, particularly on the latter half of the Primitive Loop Trail (after Double O Arch). Until Double O Arch though, we would categorize Primitive Loop Trail as a moderately challenging hike.

Appropriately, the trail starts ascending up a fin after this point. It was a bit unnerving as we headed up, particularly since it was a windy day. The trail was still decently crowded, so we tried to give everyone space, and wait for other hikers as needed. As we were scrambling up the fin, someone stopped right in front of me, and thankfully I noticed and stopped instead of crashing into them. I should have left more room, since it’s pretty much single file in this spot.

At the top of the fin, Partition Arch came back into view to the west. As we hiked, we pointed out rock formations and told each other the random objects we thought they resembled. One looked suspiciously like a slice of pizza. As we pointed it out, another hiker chimed in to tell us he agreed. So we’re not the only crazy ones! Sadly though, we didn’t get a photo (if you get a photo of it, we’d love to hear from you at ktnpblog@gmail.com).

Five minutes later, we turned left at the intersection for Partition and Navajo Arches. There seemed to be fewer people on these side trails – it felt more secluded, at least for the moment, which we appreciated. At the next fork, we headed toward Partition Arch. It’s actually two arches side by side, and they look like holes punched out of a monolith. Looking through the arches gave us a scenic view out over the prairie.

Next, we headed toward Navajo Arch. Tucked under a fin, it seemed to appear out of nowhere. We ducked underneath to get a view from the other side. Behind it was a puddle that reflected the arch and surrounding pine trees. Given the lighting, we could see the definition of the arch better from this perspective. Navajo Arch is particularly photogenic, and we had it all to ourselves.

Double O Arch

Back on Primitive Loop Trail, we continued our adventure. We followed rock cairns and slickrock, making sure to avoid any cryptobiotic soil. The trail ascended onto a large sandstone fin, which we hiked on for a good ways. Looking behind us, we could see the ubiquitous La Sal Mountains. Walking along the fin was fun, and a little scary when the wind picked up. As we descended, we could see a maze of fins in the distance to our right.

At the end of the fin, we arrived at Black Arch Overlook. We gazed out over Devils Garden, looking for the titular Black Arch. There’s no defined trail to get to the arch; I’ve read online of an unmarked route, but never found exact directions. From the overlook, Black Arch is only visible as a dark shadow. Since the lighting wasn’t optimal, it was hard to pick out the arch from the other formations in the distance. It might be better at another time of day – for reference, we were there around noon.

About ten minutes after leaving Black Arch Overlook, we reached Double O Arch. Similar to Partition Arch, it’s two arches, this time aligned vertically. The “trail” to the arch goes through sand, then through the lower arch. There were a number of visitors congregating here, waiting for others to cross under the arch, and taking photos.

We like to go through arches when possible, since it lends a unique perspective. Walking through the opening of Double O Arch allowed us to look out over the prairie at sweeping views and picturesque rock formations. In the distance, we could also see our next stop: Dark Angel.

Dark Angel

Double O Arch is located at a four-way intersection. One path is the Primitive Loop Trail that we had arrived on. The second is Dark Angel Trail, which leads to a large obelisk called Dark Angel. The third is a short spur trail to Double O Arch. Lastly, the Primitive Loop Trail continues on, then eventually terminates near Landscape Arch. From the intersection, we spotted Dark Angel again, and headed toward it. This section is easy terrain. Along the way, we stopped to have some much needed lunch along a “cliff” edge. From there, we looked out in the distance and saw Klondike Bluffs, where we had hiked Tower Arch a couple days prior.

It’s only 0.4 miles, one way, from Double O Arch to Dark Angel. The obelisk is huge, and we guessed it was over 100 feet tall (it’s actually around 125 feet tall). We walked around the obelisk, wondering how it had formed. Later, we learned that there are petroglyphs and pictographs located near Dark Angel. If we had known when we visited, we would’ve tried to find them! The rock art was created by the Fremont and Anasazi (Ancestral Puebloans), so please preserve it if you visit.

Continuing Primitive Loop Trail

After checking out Dark Angel, we retraced our steps and had a view of the La Sals again. We reached the four-way intersection at Double O Arch, and turned left back onto Primitive Loop Trail. A group was trying to find their way and asked if we knew how to get to Double O Arch – it can be tricky navigating the crisscrossing paths. Near the intersection, we saw a Hopi chipmunk (Neotamias rufus) scurrying about. We were lucky to get a photo! Wildlife is abundant in Arches NP, but actually spotting it is another story.

Along this section of the Primitive Loop Trail, there were even fewer hikers. Up ahead, we noticed some arches that weren’t on our maps, so we were curious whether they were named, or whether they were even true arches (or if the shadows were playing tricks on us). They are indeed arches. The first was Shadow Box Arch, on a fin to our right. It’s not the most impressive arch, but it was easy to spot from the trail. Further down the trail is an arch called Top Story Window, high up on a fin. I thought this one was more visually appealing.

Private Arch

The trail continues over sandstone and through washes. There were a few pools of water too, which we found unusual in the desert. Primitive Loop Trail is known for having standing water (I assume it’s from rainfall). The trail can be tricky to cross at certain points, but the few pools we had found so far were easy enough to get around. Eventually, we turned right at the intersection to Private Arch.

After about ten minutes, we hiked onto a large sandstone fin as Private Arch became visible. A few people were eating lunch nearby. Even though it’s called “Private Arch,” it isn’t really that secluded. For some solitude and better lighting, we went behind the arch. Then, we decided to walk further along the fin for a view into the heart of Devils Garden.

Returning on Primitive Loop Trail

After backtracking to Primitive Loop Trail, we continued on. There was more water along the route, but it was relatively easy to avoid. We started descending on a sandy trail surrounded by rocks. I commented that “the trail will probably be like this from here on out.” Famous last words.

Interestingly, there’s a backcountry campsite, Devils Garden 1 (DG1), along this route if you wish to make the hike an overnight. It was established after our visit, so we didn’t get to check it out. It sounds like a fun option for this hike, if you can secure a permit. We didn’t backpack in Arches because the park was in the process of shifting from dispersed camping to designated sites during our visit. Arches NP would be a fantastic place to backpack though.

We came upon a sandstone area that didn’t have any clear cairns, and we wondered where to go. Finally, we spotted the next cairn on some rocks. As we climbed down the rocks and a large log, we heard another group talking loudly as they approached from the opposite direction. Descending the sandstone trail, they spotted us and one guy asked if we had done this route before. “No,” we replied. “Have fun with THAT,” he said, motioning toward the rock they had just hiked down.

So we climbed up and saw a very thin, steeply sloping “trail” tracing its way along the rock face. The “trail” then turned back on itself as it descended. It looked a bit scary, and we hadn’t encountered anything like it before. We put our hands on the rock face, and slowly moved across the sandstone. Sometimes we couldn’t quite figure out where to put our feet or hands, but tried to keep up the momentum. I went first, and guided Travis as he followed. Thankfully, we made it in one piece. A fall wouldn’t have been fatal, but I might have broken a limb.

Our next obstacle was a pool of water that blocked our route. It was in a depression with stone “walls” on both sides. It looked like we might be able to go around on the right side, but we decided instead to go straight through it. There were a bunch of logs in the water, so we stepped on them as we walked through. We also found a stick, which we used for balance, since we hadn’t brought our trekking poles. The logs sank a bit as we trudged through. My feet got wet, but the weather was warm enough that it didn’t matter.

Next, we briefly walked through a wash before ascending on a sandy trail. A few groups passed us in both directions. There was beautiful scenery of the mountains and desert, but we were getting tired at this point and were ready to be done. In the distance, we saw the main trail, dotted with tons of hikers. Near Landscape Arch, Primitive Loop Trail joined up with the main Devils Garden Trail. Retracing our earlier route, we arrived back at the parking lot before driving into Moab for dinner.

Parts of the trail are crowded, but the further you hike, the fewer people there are. There are many arches, breathtaking views, and even obstacles that make this trail special. You can pick and choose which arches to see; our favorites were Landscape, Partition, and Navajo. We highly recommend this trail, even if you only stop to see a few landmarks.

Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail

Date: Monday, March 26, 2018
Type: Lollipop loop day hike
Total Distance: 7.8 mi (12.6 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1669 feet (509 m)
Time: 6.5 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns
Difficulty: Moderate to difficult
Crowds: Heavy at the start, less as you go farther, few on Primitive Loop Trail
Water: Standing water possible on Primitive Loop Trail
Highlights: Geological Features, Views
Directions to Devils Garden Parking: Google Maps Directions
Notes: We did everything that could be done on this trail, but you could skip some arches or make it an out-and-back if desired. There’s also one campsite located along the Primitive Loop Trail, if you want to make this an overnight hike.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the trailhead, walk through the large fins and onto the main trail
• 0.3 mi – Turn right at the intersection to Tunnel and Pine Tree Arches. Walk 300 feet down the hill to another intersection, then turn right. Check out Tunnel Arch (on your right, above). Retrace your steps back to the intersection, and go straight toward Pine Tree Arch.
• 0.5 mi – Walk through Pine Tree Arch, if you like, then hike back to the intersection.
• 0.7 mi – Turn right at the intersection, go back up the hill, and turn right which takes you back onto the main Devils Garden Trail.
• 1.3 mi – At the intersection with the Primitive Loop Trail, bear left toward Landscape Arch.
• 1.4 mi – At Landscape Arch, check out the view from the platform. Continue past the sign that reads “Caution Primitive Trail – Difficult Hiking.” The trail will ascend a large fin.
• 1.7 mi – Turn left at the intersection toward Partition and Navajo Arches. Continue 250 feet, then turn left again toward Partition Arch.
• 1.9 mi – Check out Partition Arch, then walk back to the intersection.
• 2.1 mi – Turn left toward Navajo Arch.
• 2.3 mi – Enjoy Navajo Arch, then walk back to the intersection.
• 2.5 mi – Bear left, then walk 250 feet and turn left onto Primitive Loop Trail. The path will continue on slickrock before ascending and taking you on top of a sandstone fin.
• 3.0 mi – The sandstone fin portion ends at Black Arch Overlook. See if you can spot the titular arch (it can be hard to locate).
• 3.3 mi – At the junction, continue straight toward Double O Arch. Don’t forget to walk through it and explore the other side. Then return to the junction and turn left – follow the sign toward Dark Angel. You’ll see the obelisk in the distance.
• 3.9 mi – Check out Dark Angel. Then head back the way you came.
• 4.3 mi – Back at the junction, turn left on Primitive Loop Trail. As you hike, keep an eye out for some lesser known arches.
• 4.7 mi – Turn right onto the trail to Private Arch.
• 5.0 mi – Arrived at Private Arch. Check it out, then hike back the same way.
• 5.3 mi – At the intersection, turn right onto Primitive Loop Trail.
• 7.0 mi – Turn left onto Devils Garden Trail. You’ll see Landscape Arch off to the right.
• 7.8 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Devils Garden Trailhead | 38.782811, -109.594943
• Pine Tree Arch | 38.787503, -109.598741
• Tunnel Arch | 38.784885, -109.596788
• Landscape Arch | 38.790522, -109.607260
• Former Wall Arch | 38.792289, -109.607795
• Navajo Arch | 38.791393, -109.609108
• Partition Arch | 38.791704, -109.608410
• Black Arch Overlook | 38.797143, -109.616044
• Double O Arch | 38.799049, -109.621138
• Dark Angel | 38.801413, -109.627493
• Private Arch | 38.801175, -109.616040

Maps

• Devils Garden Trail Map (KTNP)
• Devils Garden Trail Guide (NPS)

Links

• Devils Garden (NPS)
• Petroglyphs at Dark Angel (The Trek Planner)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.