Glacier National Park was on our bucket list, and we were both super excited to visit. Due to the popularity of the park, we had to plan a full year in advance. It can be difficult to secure campgrounds, hotels, and backcountry permits, so planning ahead is essential.

Our trip would begin on the west side of the park, and gradually head east over our three-week trip. We planned to spend our first two nights at Fish Creek Campground in Glacier’s Lake McDonald district.

Fish Creek is a large campground with 178 sites, which makes reserving a site a bit easier compared to other campgrounds in the park (like the popular and centrally located Many Glacier Campground). Most sites are released over a six-month rolling basis, except for a few sites, which have a 4-day window. The day we booked, we managed to get the site we wanted (C110) near Lake McDonald.

The campground has four loops – A, B, C, and D. Each loop is a bit different. We chose C loop for its access to Lake McDonald, fairly private sites, and because generators are prohibited. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites seemed less private, particularly on the inner loop. Loops A and B are farther from the lake and have less tree cover. Loop A has the only showers in the entire campground, though you could easily drive over to them. Loop B has more RV spots than other loops, so we avoided that.

Important Note: Grizzly and black bears frequent the area. Bear boxes are available near the restrooms; otherwise keep all food and scented items in your car for your safety and that of wildlife. Park rangers do patrol the area and issue fines for noncompliance.

Arriving at Fish Creek Campground

We flew into Kalispell, then picked up our rental car and supplies before heading into the park. Speaking of which, don’t forget to buy or rent bear spray – we bought ours from a nearby REI. From Kalispell it was around a one hour drive to the campground. On the way, we stopped at the Apgar Backcountry Office to confirm some of our upcoming backpacking permits.

Afterwards, we drove the short distance to Fish Creek Campground and checked in. Our site, C110, is a pull through to a cozy setup with a picnic table and fire ring. A water pump is located close by, and a short path leads to Lake McDonald. Our campsite had plenty of tree cover and it was nice and quiet – we liked it already!

Once we set up our tent, we walked over to Lake McDonald. There were plenty of multicolored rocks on the lakebed, visible through the clear pure water. Nearby, some kids were playing in the lake, but it still seemed so calm and peaceful. It’s the kind of place you could read a book, or simply relax and enjoy the view.

It was dinner time, and we had decided not to cook at our campsite (we were lazy). We drove 6 minutes into the nearby park town of Apgar, and got dinner at Eddie’s Cafe & Mercantile. It was the worst restaurant experience we’ve had in any national park. Our food took forever to arrive, the orders were wrong, and the food just wasn’t good. The attached ice cream shop was decent though, and they had some vegan sorbet options for Kristin. Since we visited, Eddie’s has changed concessionaires and undergone a significant renovation in 2022. It’s larger, and looks more like a traditional lodge. So take our experience with a grain of salt.

After dinner, we walked over to Lake McDonald and enjoyed the view and ambiance. With the gentle waves lapping the lakeshore, and stunning multicolored rocks in Lake McDonald, it was a beautiful spot to relax and eat our ice cream. The area looked even more beautiful in the early evening light. It was so simple, and yet a memorable first night.

The campground was relatively quiet when we returned later that evening, which we appreciated. The air had gotten cooler, but it wasn’t yet “cold.” Even though it was only 9:30 p.m. and still light out, we passed out in our tent. We awoke overnight to the sound of bugling. Probably an elk near the lake, but we didn’t get up to check.

The next day we got up early to hike the nearby Avalanche Lake Trail. Afterward, we drove into Columbia Falls for dinner before returning to camp – again, not worrying about cooking at the campsite. Then we went by the lake and relaxed, took photos, and just enjoyed the campground. We dipped our feet into the lake, which was freezing cold. There’s also an amphitheater at Loop A where the park service holds ranger talks. We had wanted to attend one, but didn’t find the time. But we did stop by for a quick visit, and also check out the only showers in the campground.

Two nights was a short stay at Fish Creek. It’s a great campground, we recommend it and wished we had stayed longer – but we had more places to see in Glacier. Next we’d be heading east, over Logan Pass, all the way to Many Glacier.

Fish Creek Campground | 178 Campsites

Dates Visited: Saturday July 20, 2019 – Monday July 22, 2019
Location: 12 miles from the park’s West Glacier entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling
Dates Open: Mid-May to early September
Prices: $30/night for individual tent campsite
Reservations: 100% of sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. Otherwise, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Access to Lake McDonald, Tree Cover
Best Sites: Loop C due to privacy and Lake McDonald access. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites are not as private. Loops A and B are further from the lake and have less tree cover.
Notes: There are four tent only sites: C120, C121, C122, and D166. Two sites are not suitable for tents: C139 and C143. Generators are prohibited in Loop C. Four sites are hiker/biker only: A11a, A11b, A11c, and A11d.

Places

• Fish Creek Campground | Fish Creek Campground Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936
• Eddie’s Mercantile and Cafe | Apgar Village, 236 Apgar Lp Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936

Maps

• Fish Creek Campground Map (Wikipedia, may be outdated)

Links

• Glacier Campgrounds (NPS)
• Fish Creek Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)

Interactive Map

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Our hiking journey in Japan had been challenging due to Typhoon Prapiroon. It prevented us from summiting both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake. Though disappointed, we were still optimistic about our longest and most-anticipated hike to Mount Yari (槍ヶ岳, Yarigatake) in Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen). We had planned a three-day, 32.6 km (20.3 mi) trek, staying in mountain huts along the way. Our one-way route took us from Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), to Mount Yari, then to Shinhotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉). Thankfully, this trip turned out better than both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake.

Planning: Route

When researching where to hike in Japan, we stumbled upon Kamikochi – a scenic mountainous region within Chubusangaku National Park. Subsequent searching led to Mount Yari. The mountain is named after the Japanese word for “spear,” as the tip of the mountain looks rather sharp. Mount Yari is 3,180 meters (10,433 feet) tall and is the fifth tallest mountain in Japan.

The timing of our trip was important. Mt. Yari can get crowded, especially from mid-July through August. This is especially due to schools letting out for summer break. When we went in early July, it was significantly less crowded. However, we also had to consider the impact of the rainy season (early June through mid-July), which turned out to be significant.

There are multiple routes to the top of Mount Yari. A popular route is a loop from Kamikochi to Mount Yari, and then to Mount Hotaka (穂高岳, Hotaka-dake). It’s often called the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit. We were interested in it, but were put off by the section between Yari and Hotaka called the Daikiretto which means “big cut” in Japanese. It’s extremely steep and dangerous (people die there every year), with exposed ascents and descents. While I was intrigued, Kristin was not open to that option. Probably for the best, considering the wet weather we encountered.

Instead, we decided on a one-way route that started in Kamikochi and ended in Shinhotaka Onsen. Our trip would be three days and two nights, and we planned to stay in mountain huts along the trail. Each day of the journey would be strenuous, especially the second and third days. In early July, there was still a chance that we’d have to hike across snow fields. Just in case, we brought some inexpensive crampons, which (spoiler alert) came in handy.

Planning: Accommodations

Most mountain huts in Chubusangaku National Park provide meals and overnight accommodations. This meant we wouldn’t need to bring a tent, sleep system, or cooking gear. Sleep arrangements are typically dormitory style with wide bunks, though sometimes private rooms are available. If you prefer to camp, there are also campgrounds along the route.

Some mountain huts require reservations, but the ones we chose in 2018 did not. But, as of 2020, they now require reservations. These can be made online, even if you can’t speak Japanese. There are many lodges other than the ones we picked, so you can really customize a trip however you choose. Campgrounds typically don’t require reservations.

As of summer 2024, Yarisawa Lodge and Yarigatake Sanso cost ￥15,500 (~$100) per person per night for accommodations and three meals (dinner, breakfast, and to-go bento). The price can be reduced by forgoing some of the meals. An extra ￥12,000 (~$80) will get you a small private room. Mountain hut pricing differs, so be sure to bring yen regardless of the cost. Credit cards are not usually accepted.

To conclude our hike, we made a reservation at Yarimikan in the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. We wanted to experience an onsen, and Yarimikan has private baths. An onsen seemed like a great spot to relax after our 3-day journey.

Planning: Maps

English hiking maps of Japan are difficult to find. So, we bought Japanese maps and made it work. We had both paper and electronic maps. For paper maps, we got Mapple Map #40 from Amazon Japan for ￥1320 (~$10), which detailed the surrounding area. The map shipped quickly, and is good waterproof quality, though the NatGeo maps in the US are tougher. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”

As far as electronic maps, we downloaded Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) from Android Play. It’s free to install the app, then you purchase the specific map(s) you’re looking for. It provides an electronic version (same as Mapple’s paper version), plus you can see your location on it. We appreciated having both the paper and electronic versions, just in case.

After opening the app, you’re greeted by a “sign” with three options. The first option will go to your purchased maps (there’s a free sample map). At the bottom of that screen is a button that allows you to select other maps to purchase. Clicking on any of the maps leads to a product page where you can see more information. At the bottom of that page is a button that you click to buy that map. Currently, each electronic map costs $4.49.

Generally Japanese trails themselves don’t have names like they do in the United States. Instead, trail signs point to the destination at each intersection. So, we would follow trail signs to Mt. Yari. Similarly, Japanese trail maps don’t list distances. Instead, they list the approximate time from intersection to intersection in both directions. I can appreciate that, but I’d rather have the distance since hikers move at different speeds.

To help other travelers, we created a map for this hike in English and Japanese. Hopefully it helps if you’re planning a similar trip. Use at your own discretion, but we tried our best to make it helpful. We were given an English map when we got to the park, but it wasn’t as detailed or extensive as we would have liked, so we didn’t rely on it. Instead, we used the Mapple ones.

Planning: Gear

When we climbed Yarigatake in early July, there were still some snow fields. Just in case, we had brought crampons with us. And we were glad we had them, though we saw some climbers not using them. We also used trekking poles, and recommend doing so regardless of when you hike due to large elevation gains and losses. The snow fields would likely be greatly reduced by late July.

Due to snow melt, there were streams everywhere and it was easy to find water. We brought our Sawyer Squeeze water filter and found it helpful. Water is also available at huts. Generally, unless you stayed at a particular hut, you would need to purchase your water.

Since we were staying at huts, we didn’t need a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, or cooking gear. This lightened our load considerably. We brought smaller backpacks – an Osprey Kestrel 38 for me, and Osprey Kyte 36 for Kristin. We both brought a rain jacket and rain pants, which were helpful. We also had small umbrellas which seemed like a strange item to bring on a backpacking trip, but turned out to be invaluable in this case.

Most of our snacks were brought from the United States, but we augmented our stash with Japanese ones too. It was fun trying different things that aren’t available at home. The mountain huts took care of breakfast, lunch, and dinner. For lunch, we requested a bento from the hut, which we’d eat on the trail. That made it simpler and easier than packing our own lunches. Mountain huts also sell snacks, though they’re understandably expensive.

Day 0 – Arriving at Kamikochi

On Friday we arrived at Kamikochi, and tried to determine whether our Mt. Yari trip would be possible given the typhoon. We went to the nearby information center to ask. The workers there were super helpful, and told us there was currently an impassable stream on the stretch from Mt. Yari to Shinhotaka Onsen. Bummer. We hoped that the weather would improve, but it continued to rain the rest of the day.

On Saturday, we inquired again and were told the same thing. Sunday was when we would be starting our backpacking trip. Conflicted, we headed back to Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (西糸屋山荘, Nishi Itoya Sansō), where we were staying in Kamikochi. We requested another night there, since we had decided not to hike Mount Yari.

Instead, one of the staff tried to convince us to hike Yari. He showed us the forecast, which was not great for our first day, but seemed to be good for the following days. The man was a guide who had done the hike to Yari multiple times. We went back and forth, but in the end, he convinced us to go for it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right? Plus, this might be our only chance to do this hike. We made the right call, as the trip was fabulous. Thanks to the staff member at Nishi-ito-ya who got us to reconsider!

Day 1 – Leaving Kamikochi

Nishi-ito-ya in Kamikochi is a great lodge, and the staff was so friendly. Before leaving, we sent our luggage to Yarimikan via Takyubin. It’s a very handy luggage forwarding service that we used multiple times while in Japan. Leaving Nishi-ito-ya, we headed north along the path, past Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi) on our right. We decided to travel along the north side of the Azusa River so we could visit Myojin Pond (明神池, Myojinike) and Hotaka Shrine. It added about 15 minutes to our hike (compared to taking the path south of the river), but we didn’t want to miss these spots.

The rain continued as we walked along the river. Everything was drenched, but people were still out exploring. We were able to use our umbrellas, as the trail was fairly wide. Before long, we came upon Dakesawa Marsh (sometimes translated as Takezawa), which has a boardwalk. The area was flooded, but thankfully the water was still below the boardwalk. It’s beautiful, and the rain almost enhanced its beauty. And I’m a sucker for boardwalks and marshes.

After the marsh, we continued walking over bridges and past roaring streams. All the rushing streams head toward the Azusa river. We came upon an area with wide boardwalks along the river. At this point we saw how high the river had gotten based on it’s height compared to the trees. It was kind of daunting, as the rain continued to fall.

Day 1 – Myojin Pond

The rain started picking up even more as we reached a gravel road. We walked on it for a short time before getting onto another trail which ran parallel to the road. Eventually though, part of the trail was closed due to the high water, so we had to hike on the road. A truck trundled past us, and eventually we reached Myojin Pond and Hotaka-Okumiya Shrine. Part of the shrine is free to access, and you can pay ¥500/person to access Myojin Pond. We decided to pay the extra fee, bought a nice charm, and got our goshuin stamped. The pond is very serene and picturesque, and we were glad we got to see it. However we aren’t convinced it was worth the price we paid. The shrine is a branch of the main Hotaka Shrine, which is near Matsumoto.

Near Hotaka-Okumiya shrine is a small lodge called Kamonji-Goya. It was almost time for lunch, so we took a look at the menu, but nothing struck our fancy. The restaurant is actually quite famous, but we didn’t know that until later. At Myojin Bridge, we crossed the Azusa River. There were some free port-a-potties at the bridge too, if you’re in need of a restroom. On the other side of the bridge is a lodge called Myojinkan, where we hoped to get lunch.

It was still raining (surprise!). We avoided puddles, and saw people here and there. We arrived at Myojinkan – it’s a nice hut with a good selection of food and an English language menu (with pictures). I ordered the gyudon and Kristin got some tempura udon. Both were solid. We also grabbed a C.C. Lemon, one of our favorite Japanese soft drinks, from a nearby vending machine. Most vending machines in Kamikochi seemed to have it.

Leaving Myojinkan, we got out our umbrellas again. The next section is a flat, easy hike along the river. As we hiked, the rain started tapering off. And before we knew it, the sun started peeking out! We were overjoyed. It was the first time we saw the sun in four days. Invigorated, we continued on, enjoying views of mountains and the river. Along this section is a small pond called Furuike (古池, Old Pond), which is beautifully clear and mirror-like due to incoming spring water.

Day 1 – Tokusawa and Yokoo-Sanso

After crossing a stream that flows into the Azusa River, we entered a wooded area. From a distance, we spotted Tokusawa Lodge and went to check it out. There, we took a quick snack break. Shortly after, we passed free bathrooms, Tokusawa Campground, and Tokusawa-en Lodge. Past the Tokusawa area, we encountered mostly rolling hills where the trail is wide and follows the river. Eventually the trail narrows, and we passed a beautiful suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) that heads back across the river. We didn’t cross it, but couldn’t resist taking some photos.

We reached Yokoo-Sanso, the last lodge before Yarisawa, and noticed restrooms and a campground nearby. Checking our map, we saw that we were about 1 hour and 40 minutes away from Yarisawa. We weren’t sure whether to trust the time on the map, but it was 3:30 p.m., and dinner is served at Yarisawa at 5:00 p.m. I went into Yokoo-Sanso and asked the staff to call Yarisawa and let them know we’d be late. We wouldn’t get the usual dinner, instead it will be dehydrated curry, but we were okay with that (and we didn’t have a choice).

Confident that we’d be able to get some dinner that night, we grabbed another C.C. Lemon from a vending machine and continued on. The wide level path becomes more of a hiking trail here. It narrows, becomes rocky, and the trail starts to ascend significantly for the first time. As the trail took us closer to the river, we could see the beautiful rushing water. The air around us cooled, and we could see our breath.

The trail continued ascending and we spotted a sign along the trail. With my basic Japanese language skills, I read “Ganbatte!” which means “do your best” in English. It was a nice motivator, and we knew we were getting close. 10 minutes later, we saw the lodge and celebrated.

Day 1 – Yarisawa Lodge

Checking into the Yarisawa Lodge, we paid for our three meals and accommodations. We decided not to spend extra money for a private room. The staff started making our dehydrated curry. Kristin had to get the vegetarian curry because the beef one had milk in it. She was glad that they were able to accommodate her dietary restriction.

While our food was being prepared, we checked out the dorm area. We had spots on a top bunk, and were relieved to see that we had the whole row to ourselves. That’s one benefit of visiting during the off season. There were other guests below and across from us. Only about 15 people were staying the night, and we appreciated that the staff spread the guests out for privacy. Next to our bunk was a small window that overlooked the river.

Yarisawa has a drying room, so we grabbed our wet gear from the morning and went to check it out. We headed downstairs, past the public bath (which is open briefly at a designated time) and restrooms. We opened the door and immediately felt the intense heat of the drying room. There were shelves, clips, and hangers everywhere. All our gear dried within a few hours, except for our boots which were soaked.

Our dinner was ready, so we went into the dining room and ate our curry and rice. It was pretty good! We were just happy to eat at that point, though we wondered what the regular meal had been like. After finishing up, we explored the hut, and decided to go to bed early. Many hikers in Japan wake up before dawn, and breakfast would start at 5:30 a.m.

The pillow was weird, and the futon not super comfortable, but we fell asleep quickly. At 4 a.m. we were awakened by our bunkmates below. They continually rustled their bags as they packed up to leave. Like plastic grocery bags. Rustle, rustle, rustle. For about 30 minutes before they left the lodge. Some hikers like to get a really early start. We just wished they had packed the night before.

Day 2 – Leaving Yarisawa

Around 6 a.m. the next morning, we went to the dining room to join 8 or so other guests that stayed for breakfast. Some hikers start their day early and have breakfast on the trail, but that wasn’t an option for us. Plus, we wanted the full mountain hut experience. Breakfast was simple but good: miso soup and rice, both served family style, as well as veggies, tea, and a small piece of fish. We talked to a few other guests, and learned that several other hikers were heading to Yarigatake too.

After breakfast, we picked up our lunch bento, packed up, and filled up our water bottles. We purchased a couple of overpriced snacks, and Kristin bought a souvenir bear bell. It was 7:30 a.m. when we headed out. Immediately outside Yarisawa was a telescope. Curious, we peered through it and saw a very sharp mountain peak – Mt. Yari (Yarigatake). It was distant, but we appreciated knowing that our destination was in sight. We’d be hiking 5.7 km (3.5 mi) and ascending 1396 meters (4580 feet) that day. And, finally, the weather was gorgeous!

Finally, the trail started to ascend. It was rocky but easy going. We continued until we reached a shelter area (we later learned it’s called Babadaira Campground) with a restroom. As we ascended, we started seeing beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and valley. Clear alpine streams rushed down the mountainside due to the melting snow. Sometimes these streams were running on the trail itself. We saw a few other hikers going the opposite direction, but otherwise it was a quiet trail.

Eventually we broke out our bentos to see what they were. They were large, rectangular onigiri with lotus root, egg, and veggies. We weren’t sure of all the ingredients, but it was delicious. Savory with a slight sweetness, it was the best bento that we got from a lodge/hut in Japan.

Day 2 – Across Snow Fields

After lunch, we reached the first of four snow fields. It was a bit scary, never having crossed them before. We had brought some cheap, probably not great quality, four-point crampons. We strapped them over our boots, went slow, and also relied on our trekking poles to cross the snow field. I wished we had brought some microspikes or better crampons, but we got across without issue. We saw other hikers that didn’t use any crampons, but…I’d still recommend bringing something. The first snow field was the shortest, while the snow fields at higher elevation were larger.

We crossed a longer snow field, then spotted a cave. Banryu (1786-1840), a Buddhist priest and the first known climber of Yarigatake (1828), stayed in this cave for 54 days, while chanting constantly. Inside the cave are a few Jizo statues. After leaving the cave, we came to our longest snow crossing, which we took slowly and carefully.

Eventually we started seeing boulders with numbers painted on them. Initially, we thought the numbers represented the hiking distance to the peak of Mt. Yari, or the elevation. However, we eventually realized it’s actually the elevation gain required to reach the top in meters. It was a nice measure of our progress, which gave us renewed energy. In the rock scramble sections, some rocks had large Xs and Os on them, indicating where to go (the Os) or avoid (the Xs), which was useful since the terrain wasn’t a defined path.

As we climbed higher, the spear-shaped peak of Yarigatake came into view again. Eventually, we spotted Yarigatake Sanso, just below the peak, where we would spend the night. It was a rough climb, but we eventually made it around 2:45 p.m. We were exhausted, but thrilled that we were finally there. Behind us were amazing views of the area we had just hiked through.

Day 2 – Summiting Yarigatake

At Yarigatake Sanso, we reserved our bunks and set our gear aside. Hikers can climb the peak of Yarigatake, situated just next to the lodge. We knew we wouldn’t have time the next day, so we decided to go ahead and do it. We had an hour or so before dinner, which turned out to be just enough time.

Climbing to the peak of Yari is not for the fainthearted. It’s a vertical climb aided by ladders, chains, and scrambling. I thought it was tons of fun, but Kristin thought it was scary. The routes up and down the peak are mostly separate, so you won’t run into people going the opposite direction. A few sections are combined, and hikers must be patient.

Making our way up the peak, we held onto the chains and ladders as we scrambled our way to just below the summit. From there, two ladders lead to the very top. Some climbers coming down mentioned that the ladders felt a bit loose. That was kind of scary to hear, but we proceeded and they seemed secure to us.

A small shrine sits at the summit (of course). The peak was shrouded in a dense fog. It was hard to see out any distance, but we did get a view of Yarisanso and glimpses of the surrounding mountains. After a few minutes, we carefully climbed back down. Here are more details about climbing the peak.

Day 2 – Dinner at Yarigatake Sanso

Back at Yarisanso, we were starving. Thankfully, it was dinner time! Unlike Yarisawa, we had arrived in plenty of time to eat. Everyone filed into the huge dining room. It could probably seat hundreds of people, though there were only about 15 guests. Nice thing about it not being peak season yet.

Sitting down at a table with others, we each had a plate of hamburger steak (hambagu) and veggies. As usual, rice and miso soup were served family style. There was another foreigner beside us, a solo British man, who was very nice. We also met and chatted with a Japanese woman who lives in Seattle. Everyone else appeared to be Japanese, and we talked with them as much as we could. A couple of guys even poured miso soup on their rice and told us it was “Japanese soul food.”

In the dining room, and the hut in general, there was a wonderful sense of camaraderie. We shared another C.C. Lemon (we’re addicted) from the vending machine. The machine also had beer, but I wasn’t feeling it (nor did it seem like the best choice for a multi-day hiking trip).

After dinner, we went upstairs to request a bento for the following day. We also inquired about the water crossing that we would reach the next day (it had been impassable for few days due to the typhoon). The staff showed us a photo of the area on an iPad. It was very hard to tell, but we thought it would be doable, so we continued with our original plan to hike to Shinhotaka Onsen. Not that we really had a backup in mind.

We went outside on the patio to take some more photos. The clouds had lifted a bit and we gazed out over the horizon. And what did we see? Mt. Fuji. It’s unmistakable due to its distinctive shape. Having been forced to abandon our plans of hiking it earlier in our trip, it was therapeutic to see it now.

We wanted to get to bed early. Our bunk was on the bottom this time, a welcome change compared with Yarisawa. Across the aisle, we spotted an older Japanese couple – our bunkmates from the previous night. Turns out they spoke some English and we had a nice conversation. And we felt a little bad that we complained about them rustling their bags early in the morning. We hope when we’re their age, we can still hike and backpack.

Day 3 – Leaving Yarigatake Sanso

We woke to the lovely sounds of bag rustling again at 4 a.m. After getting a bit more sleep, we got up around 6 a.m. We enjoyed a simple and tasty breakfast of salmon, veggies, egg, miso soup, and rice. Today would be the longest day; we would hike 12.1 km (7.5 mi) and descend 2093 meters (6867 feet). There would also be a water crossing of unknown difficulty. We were excited, but not sure how the trip would go, so we packed and headed out at 7:15 a.m.

Saying goodbye to the lodge, we headed through the adjacent campground. Its many sites are intricately laid out along and below the ridgeline, though only a few groups were using it. I was glad we stayed in the lodge. I’m not sure I trust the campground in high winds given that it’s so exposed – plus not having to bring a tent, sleeping bag, or meals is a huge advantage.

After leaving the campground, we came to an intersection. We turned right to head down the mountain. Straight would have taken us through the previously mentioned Daikiretto area. The weather was sunny and beautiful, but we didn’t see too many other hikers. Some had likely been put off by the recent weather. The trail is well defined, but steep with some loose slippery rocks in some places. Trekking poles were a necessity.

On the other side of Yari, the landscape seemed vastly different. We were surrounded by gorgeous snow-covered peaks. As we descended, we started seeing more lush green plant life. Fog rolled in, and we worried about the potential for rain, but thankfully it didn’t materialize.

Day 3 – Injuries and Lunch

Further down, we spotted some pretty wildflowers. We descended through an area with larger rocks, so we had to be careful. Suddenly, Kristin banged her knee, so I stopped to see how she was doing. She hit it pretty hard on a rock, and it was very painful. Thankfully she could still hike, but we needed to move at a slower pace.

I was hoping to get to Yarimikan, our onsen ryokan, by 17:00 (5:00 p.m.) for dinner. So we continued on, trying to hurry where we could. The area around us transitioned into a more lush, humid atmosphere that almost reminded me of a jungle. Pinked flags tied to trees sometimes marked our route.

We crossed a few streams, some of which swelled with rain water and were a bit tricky to cross. The area became more forested. Near an intersection, we passed a campground and arrived at Yaridaira Hut. It was a convenient spot to rest and grab a simple meal of udon and a C.C. Lemon. Kristin’s knee was still hurting, but manageable. Earlier we had also eaten our bento from Yarigatake Sanso, and while it was good, it wasn’t as good as the one from Yarisawa Lodge the previous day.

After finishing our meal, we continued. Concerned with time, I tried to hurry Kristin along. I moved faster to try to get her to move faster. But she could only go so fast with her knee. So we got angry with each other and barely talked for a couple hours. Eventually we apologized, and we both felt better. Part of hiking and marriage.

Day 3 – Streams and Dams

Eventually, we reached the stream that we had been warned about. It looked harder to cross than the picture we’d seen at Yarisanso. It took us 20 minutes to find a safe spot to cross without getting soaked or injured. As I landed on the other side, the rocks below me gave out. And…I banged up my leg. Poetic justice? But we got across eventually, and it turned out there were three separate crossings as the water flowed down the hill. As we were doing this, another hiker came along and hopped over everything in half the time it took us.

After the stream crossing, we made good time and reached a dry dam shortly after. Thinking the trail led right over it, we climbed down a ladder, crossed the dam, and climbed back up. We discovered that we went the wrong way though, as the trail actually goes below the dam. So we retraced our steps, curious why the dam was dry when everything else was overflowing.

On the other side of the dam, the trail became more of a fire road as we neared the end of our hike. A few streams flowed under the trail, and we passed several other dams. The terrain was gently descending at this point, so we made good time.

Passing by a lodge called Hotakadaira-goya, we immediately made a wrong turn. We continued along the “fire road,” but we should have taken a shorter trail that leads into the forest. We realized this further down the road, but we kept going since the road eventually meets back up with the other side of the trail. Eventually, we spotted the intersection with the trail. Since we missed the shortcut, we had to hike about an extra 1.0 km (0.6 mi).

Day 3 – Shinhotaka Onsen

A car passed by as we continued down the road, alongside the Gamada River. We also spotted several dams, and some buildings under construction. Soon, we stepped into the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. Thanks to Skype, we were able to call our ryokan, and they sent a shuttle. My limited Japanese and some English got the point across. Pro-tip: get a Japanese SIM card or pocket WiFi device so you can make calls.

The shuttle took us to a small, beautiful ryokan onsen called Yarimikan. We checked in, dropped our stuff in our room, and immediately went to take a bath. No one was in either the men’s or the women’s, so we had it all to ourselves. It’s a relaxing spot, with views of the Gamada River. Feeling refreshed, we headed to dinner. The meal was…disappointing. The service was slow, the food was nothing special, and they brought us one item at a time, so we couldn’t really enjoy our meal. Everything else about the onsen was amazing, but the food could’ve been better. Especially compared with other ryokans we visited.

After finishing our meal, we went to check out some of the private onsens. Our tired muscles enjoyed soaking and relaxing in the hot (almost too hot) water. Once finished, we returned to our room and passed out. The futon was the most comfortable one we had in Japan. We were glad, because we needed the rest after our 3-day adventure.

In the morning, we ate breakfast at Yarimikan (again, kinda disappointing) and checked out. The ryokan shuttle took us to the Shinhotaka Ropeway (HO65) bus stop. In a building next to the bus stop, we bought tickets from a machine for the Nohi Okuhida-Toyama bus route (note: this route seems to no longer exist, but there are other options). Prior reservations aren’t required. Our bus eventually arrived, a little late, and we were on our way to Toyama. From Toyoma, we headed into the northern part of Chubusangaku National Park, toward the Alpine Route.

Final Thoughts

Mount Yari was the highlight of our trip, with its stunning views, mountain huts, and solitude. Being surrounded by breathtaking mountains in Japan is unlike any experience we’ve had. It was also interesting culturally, since backpacking we’ve done in the US has been quite different. Our journey was nothing short of epic, and we hope to do more hiking in the region one day.

The route we planned worked well for us. The only issue was the descent on the last day. I wouldn’t recommend descending ~6000 feet in a day, but at the same time, I’m glad we didn’t take an extra day to hike down. Lastly, ending at Shinhotaka allowed us to relax in an onsen after the hike. If you want more adventure and don’t mind a potentially dangerous route, you might consider the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit.

Yarigatake is crazy busy in summer (mid-July through August), so I do recommend planning your trip during the off-season. We dealt with storms due to the rainy season though, so it’s a gamble. But we reaped the rewards with a mostly uncrowded route. So weigh what’s important to you. Fall might be another time to consider visiting.

If you’re considering this hike, there’s a list of helpful resources below. And if you have any questions or thoughts, feel free to leave a comment!

Backpacking Mount Yari (Yarigatake)

Date: Sunday, July 8, 2018 – Tuesday, July 10, 2018
Type: 2-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 32.6 km (20.3 mi) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +2060 meters (6759 feet), -2454 meters (8051 feet)

• Day 1 (Starting from Kappa Bridge):
  • Distance: 14.8 km (9.2 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 540 meters (1772 feet) gain, 225 meters (738 feet) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, including lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: Yarisawa Lodge
• Day 2 (Distance/Elevation includes climbing the peak of Mt. Yari):
  • Distance: 5.7 km (3.5 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1396 meters (4580 feet) gain, 136 meters (446 feet) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours to get to the lodge, including lunch and breaks. It took an additional 50 minutes to climb the peak of Mt. Yari.
  • Overnight: Yarigatake Sanso
• Day 3 (Ending at Shinhotaka Ropeway):
  • Distance: 12.1 km (7.6 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 124 meters (407 feet) gain, 2093 meters (6867 feet) loss
  • Time: 9 hours, including lunch and breaks
  • Overnight: Yarimikan in Shinhotaka Onsen

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections, markings painted on rocks: “O” (safe route), “X” (avoid)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, waterfalls, small ponds
Highlights: Views, wildlife, mountains, Japanese culture, lodges, wildflowers, snow, creeks, bridges, onsen
Directions to Kamikochi: Google Maps Directions
Notes: There are many route options; below is the one we did.

Trail Directions

• Day 1
  • 0.0 km / 0.0 mi – From Kappa Bridge in Kamikochi, head north on the gravel path along the river.
  • 0.2 km / 0.1 mi – Where the road and the path join briefly, bear right to stay on the path. A trail sign points toward “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 3.3 km. After about 5-10 minutes on the trail, you’ll enter Dakesawa Marsh via a boardwalk.
  • 0.7 km / 0.4 mi – Bear right at the intersection, following the sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 2.8 km. This section goes through the forest, crossing many bridges with views of the Azusa River on the right.
  • 2.4 km / 1.5 mi – Turn right when the trail intersects with the Chisan transport road. Follow the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 1.1 km.
  • 2.7 km / 1.7 mi – Turn right to get back on a walking trail, following the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.8 km. The trail runs parallel to the road along some boardwalk sections.
  • 3.5 km / 2.2 mi – Arrive at the Myojin Pond area. To see the shrine and pond, head left at the trail sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.1 km. Otherwise, continue straight toward Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.6 km / 2.2 mi – At the bridge, turn right to cross the Azusa River via Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.9 km / 2.4 mi – Arrive at Myojinkan Lodge, staying to the right of the building. At the T intersection with the main building, turn left. A trail sign points to 徳沢 (Tokusawa) in 3.4 miles.
  • 4.2 km / 2.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Tokugotoge Shimashimadani, toward Tokusawa-Yokoo.
  • 5.6 km / 3.5 mi – Pass by Furuike (Old Pond).
  • 6.8 km / 4.2 mi – Keep left at the intersection. However, if you want to take a break or explore, you could bear right toward Tokusawa Lodge. You’ll pass another intersection in a few minutes, which also leads to the lodge. Shortly after that, you’ll pass a bathroom, then Tokusawa Campground, and some lodges. Keep straight until you get to Michikusa Shokudo.
  • 7.1 km / 4.4 mi – Turn left at Michikusa Shokudo, another lodge.
  • 7.3 km / 4.5 mi – Keep right at the intersection, toward 横尾 (translated as Yokoo).
  • 8.0 km / 5.0 mi – Continue straight to “Yokoo-Karasawa-Yari” and pass a suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) on your left that crosses the Azusa River.
  • 10.7 km / 6.7 mi – Arrive at the Yokoo area, where there is a lodge, campground, and restrooms. Continue straight, with the lodge buildings on your right. A large bridge will be on your left. Follow the sign toward “槍ヶ岳”, or Yarigatake. After this point, the trail becomes more of a true hiking trail rather than a gravel path.
  • 14.8 km / 9.2 mi – Arrive at Yarisawa Lodge! Stay the night, and continue on the trail in the morning.
• Day 2
  • 16.7 km / 10.4 mi – Head left at the intersection with Minamata. Follow the sign toward Yarigatake.
  • 17.8 km / 11.1 mi – Bear right at the intersection (left leads to Mt. Minami and Tenguhara Junction).
  • 18.7 km / 11.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail that goes to Hutte Oyari. There’s a trail sign all in Japanese.
  • 19.2 km / 11.9 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail to Sessho Hyutte.
  • 19.3 km / 12.0 mi – Continue straight at another intersection that goes to Sessho Hyutte. Then, make the last push to Yarigatake Sanso.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Turn left at the intersection, and climb a short distance to arrive at Yarigatake Sanso! Check-in and relax.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Optionally, climb to the peak of Mt. Yari. From Yarigatake Sanso, head left out of the main doors toward the peak beside the lodge. At the base, a sign points to “The top of Mt. Yarigatake” in 0.2 mi. There are separate routes to ascend and descend. Follow the route to ascend with multiple chains and ladders.
  • 20.2 km / 12.6 mi – Climb the last ladder to the top, enjoy the view and shrine, then head back down along the descent route.
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Arrive back at Yarigatake Sanso.
• Day 3
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Exit Yarigatake Sanso, turn right, and pass the campground. You’ll pass a trail sign pointing to “Shinhotaka-onsen Spa” in 14.4 km, and “Mt. Hotaka-dake” in 9.0 km.
  • 20.7 km / 12.9 mi – Turn right at the intersection. A worn sign (in Japanese) is there, but it can be hard to read.
  • 22.0 km / 13.7 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.2 km / 15.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.3 km / 15.1 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past Yaridaira Goya mountain hut.
  • 25.7 km / 16.0 mi – Pass Takidani Junction, where there may be some stream crossings.
  • 27.9 km / 17.3 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past the dam. The trail becomes a gravel road.
  • 28.1 km / 17.5 mi – After the dam, continue straight past the intersection.
  • 30.5 km / 19.0 mi – Go past Hotakadaira-goya mountain hut. Locate the trail heading to the west, near the mountain hut. If you can’t find it, continue on the road (this is what we did) though it will take slightly longer.
  • 31.2 km / 19.4 mi – Turn left, back onto the road as the trail ends.
  • 32.6 km / 20.3 mi – Arrive in Shinhotaka Onsen and relax!

Maps

• Yarigatake to Shinhotaka Map (KNTP) – Map that we created, in English and Japanese. Thanks to HokkaidoWilds.com for information and directions. We did the best we could do to make this map, but please use at your own discretion.
• Mapple Map 40 (Amazon Japan) – Map is in Japanese, but has some English for specific features. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”
• Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) – Mapple App in Google Play Store to download and view digital maps (must purchase separately from paper maps).
• Northern Japan Alps Panorama-Ginza Hiking Map (Azumino City Tourist Association) – We got a paper version of this while in Japan, but this is a digital copy in English that you can view. Does not cover the area around Shinhotaka Onsen.

Links

• Kamikochi (上高地)
  • Kamikochi Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Kamikochi (English)
  • Chubu Sangaku National Park Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Chubu Sangaku National Park (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Chubu Sangaku (English)
  • Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (English) – Where we stayed in Kamikochi, highly recommended.
• Yarigatake and Mountain Huts
  • Yarigatake Page on Yarigatake Sanso Group Site (English) – Has general information about some huts and the mountain. Can get additional information from Japanese language pages if you use Google Translate. Created by the group that operates Yarisawa and Yarigatake Sanso lodges.
  • Yarisawa Lodge (Japanese) – Where we stayed our first night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yarigatake Sanso Lodge (Japanese) – We stayed here our second night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yokoo-Sanso Official Site (English) – We didn’t stay at this lodge, but it’s just below Yarisawa.
  • Yarisawa Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Yarigatake Sanso Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Japan-Guide: Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka Circuit (English)
  • Hiking in Japan: Mt. Yari (English)
  • Mt. Yari Peak Route Details (English)
• Shinhotaka Onsen
  • Yarimikan (English) – Onsen where we stayed after the hike
  • Japan-Guide Okuhida Access & Orientation (English)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Mount Yari (Yarigatake) appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Time flies when you’re having fun, and sadly it was the last day of our trip to Canyonlands National Park. We had completed a 4-day backpacking adventure in Salt Creek Canyon, followed by a much needed one-day break. On our last full day in Utah, we decided to check out Chesler Park, a dayhike in the Needles District.

We planned to hike the 10.2 mile lollipop loop called Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail. It features spectacular views and a unique path through a deep and narrow fracture in the sandstone. Chesler Park is a large circular grassland surrounded by needles, a geological feature. Back in the 1960s, it was used for cattle grazing (which thankfully has since ended). While there are many ways to hike Chesler Park, we decided to take the route suggested by the park service.

A quick note about trail names in the Needles – you’ll notice that many are inconsistent if you look at multiple maps. Our map uses trail names based on public NPS GIS data. But the trail signs don’t specify the trail names, and instead have arrows with the destination and mileage (e.g. Elephant Hill in 1.5 mi or Druid Arch in 3.9 mi). For these reasons, we highly recommend carrying a map.

Elephant Hill Trailhead

We woke up tired and sore from our 28-mile backpacking trip, but we had high hopes for the day. The drive to Elephant Hill Trailhead was fairly easy, until we turned onto Elephant Hill Access Road shortly after the Needles Campground. After that, it’s a narrow dirt road with blind curves, so we took it slow. We got to the trailhead around 11 a.m. Chesler Park is a longer hike so I wished we had gotten there earlier, but this was the best we could do on that particular day. Thankfully there were still some parking spots at the main lot. There is also an overflow lot that we passed on the way.

Initially the trail ascends slickrock, and there are some picturesque stone steps. Much of the hike continues along slickrock, and some sections cut through sand. Cryptobiotic soil is also present, so be sure to avoid stepping on it.

We followed cairns as the trail weaved its way south, above Elephant Canyon. Behind us to the north, we spotted the snow capped La Sal Mountains. In the distance we could see the spires and needles that give the area its name.

300 million years ago, ancient seas dried up, leaving behind a layer of salt – which still lies 1000 feet below the surface. As rock eroded, it covered the salt, and the pressure caused the salt to flow. The resulting movement fractured the sandstone on top, creating a grid-like pattern. Over time, further erosion carved the needles as they appear today.

It was sunny and in the 80s, so we ducked behind any rocks we could find. There was a significant temperature difference in the shade compared to the sun. As we hiked, we saw a few lizards scampering around, and wildflowers like Indian paintbrush. After 0.6 miles we continued right on Chesler Park Trail. At this point I was still exhausted from the backpacking trip, but it wore off quickly as I was really enjoying the hike.

The trail ascends slickrock, then cuts through portions of rock. It led us through a narrow crack between two fins. It was shady and cool through there, so we hung out for a bit. We continued straight at the next intersection. Left would have taken us to Druid Arch, and right leads to EC1, a backcountry site.

We were getting closer to the needles, which meant better views. At the next intersection, we turned left to stay on Chesler Park Trail. This portion of the trail only goes for 0.6 miles, and features a moderately strenuous uphill climb with about 400 feet of elevation gain. Looking behind us, we had a view into Elephant Canyon, where we had just hiked, with the La Sals in the distance. A sign marked a “viewpoint.” The trail climbs, peaks, and then descends a sandy trail into Chesler Park itself. To our left, a small unnamed arch peeked out above the fins.

Chesler Park Loop

The slickrock gave way to a grass-covered meadow. This was Chesler Park. Though it seemed a bit out of place, it was beautiful. In the book Canyonlands National Park: Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails, author David Day theorizes that Chesler Park was formed by an ancient sinkhole that was filled with sand. When the salt movement below the surface created the needles, it also created the wide open Chesler Park.

While you can go either way at the intersection to form a 4.9 mile loop around Chesler Park, we chose to turn left and go counterclockwise. A network of trails, including Chesler Park Trail, Joint Trail, Devils Lane Road, and Devils Kitchen Trail, forms the circuit. Our first section, Chesler Park Trail, is narrow, sandy, and surrounded by vegetation and cryptobiotic soil. A few larger trees and bushes are scattered around. Shade is hard to come by, but we found a small tree where we enjoyed a quick lunch break.

Back on the trail, there are several viewpoints out over the needles. We passed two consecutive intersections, the first of which leads to Druid Arch. The next is a spur trail which follows some fins and needles into the heart of Chesler Park. Along this spur are four backcountry campsites: CP2, CP3, CP4, and CP5. (We had passed CP1 earlier, along the loop.)

Joint Trail

Next, Chesler Park Loop Trail transitions to the Joint Trail. Along the way, we noticed another spur trail that leads to a south viewpoint (but decided to skip it due to time constraints). As the trail continued, we arrived in a slickrock section with a sign pointing down a set of stairs, through a crack between fins, geologically known as a joint. While this looks like a slot canyon, it’s technically not (a slot canyon is typically formed through erosion via water). Hence, the Joint Trail.

This section of the hike is what we had most been looking forward to. As we followed the sandy trail, beams of light shone in, illuminating some portions. We scrambled down in a couple of areas, and shuffled through narrower sections. And the joint provided some much-needed respite from the heat. Eventually, the trail opened up to a wider and brighter area. We ran into another couple here, and briefly chatted with them about our travels.

We went a bit further through the joint, and spotted numerous cairns built by hikers. My understanding is that every so often, park rangers will take them down, since they can be misleading. Shortly after, we emerged into the bright sunlight. The joint was a fun experience, and the most memorable part of this hike.

We were back out in the open for the remainder of the hike. For the next 15 minutes, we hiked over sand and slickrock until the Joint Trail merges with a sandy 4WD road, called Joint Trail Road. There’s a picnic table and a latrine at this intersection.

From there, we hiked along Joint Trail Road for 0.5 miles, then turned right onto Devils Road. After another 0.2 miles, we came to a trail on the right that heads back toward Chesler Park. One car drove by while we were hiking, so keep an eye out. While the “trail” in this section is uninteresting, the views from the road are nice.

Back to Chesler Park Trail

Now we were back to hiking across slickrock and among rocky formations. After 25 minutes, we turned right to head east. The trail had more of the same – some light scrambling, cracks through fins, and views of the needles. Eventually, we finished the loop and headed back north to the trailhead. At this point, we were pretty tired, and just wanted to be done.

At around 6 p.m., we made it back to Elephant Hill Trailhead. We were wiped out. And hungry. We drove back to Moab for dinner and some much-needed rest. I wished we were staying closer to the Needles, but I also greatly appreciated the amenities Moab has to offer.

Chesler Park is a popular hike, and now I know why. It gets you up close to the needles and other rock formations, and the joint is particularly unique. The terrain and views are also varied, which creates interest. And there’s a surprising amount of solitude given its popularity.

Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail

Date: Friday, April 19, 2019
Type: Lollipop loop day hike
Total Distance: 10.2 miles (16.4 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2076 feet (634 m)
Time: 7 hours
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low-moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological features including joints, views
Directions to Trailhead: Elephant Hill Trailhead
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water, hat, sunscreen, etc.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – Head south from Elephant Hill Trailhead.
• 1.3 mi – Turn right at the intersection.
• 1.8 mi – Continue straight, passing the EC1 backcountry campsite on your right. You’ll gain 400 feet of elevation in this section.
• 2.4 mi – Continue straight, passing Devils Kitchen Trail on your right.
• 2.6 mi – Arrive at Chesler Park, where the loop begins. Turn left to hike the loop clockwise.
• 3.7 mi – Continue straight, passing a turn-off on the left that heads toward Druid Arch.
• 3.8 mi – Continue straight, passing a turn-off on the right toward backcountry campsites along needles and fins in Chesler Park. Joint Trail begins here (though you won’t enter the actual joint yet).
• 4.5 mi – Enter the joint in the sandstone.
• 5.3 mi – Continue straight onto Joint Trail Road and continue (there’s a port-a-potty here).
• 5.8 mi – Turn right onto Devils Lane Road.
• 6.0 mi – Turn right onto Devils Kitchen Trail.
• 6.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection.
• 7.6 mi – You’ve completed the loop! Turn left to head back toward the trailhead.
• 7.8 mi – Continue straight, passing Devils Kitchen Trail on your left.
• 8.4 mi – Continue straight, passing the EC1 backcountry campsite on your left.
• 8.9 mi – Turn left at the intersection, toward Elephant Hill
• 10.2 mi – Arrive back at the trailhead.

Maps

• Chesler Park Trail Map (KTNP)
• Needles District Map (NPS)

Links

• Chesler Park Loop and Joint Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

In 2018, we enjoyed exploring the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park. But we wished we had been able to visit other areas of the park too. So, the following year, that’s what we did. After researching, we decided on a four day, three night backpacking trip through Salt Creek Canyon in the Needles District.

Salt Creek Trail has a lot of draws and is located in one of the more remote areas of the Needles District. There are reliable water sources, archeological ruins, history, arches, solitude, and more. The area can be hiked via multiple routes, and we decided to do a one-way shuttle hike. Overall, the route we chose was easy to moderate. We planned low mileage days so we could take our time and explore.

Our trip turned out amazing – we loved the history, scenery, and vibe of the area. It was exactly what we were looking for. Unfortunately, we ran into a couple issues along the way (primarily due to our own mistakes). But when backpacking, you have to be prepared for anything. So we rolled with them as best we could, and this post goes into detail, so hopefully it helps someone else. Get ready, this is a long one.

Planning – Route and Campsites

We started our route at the southern border of Canyonlands, at Cathedral Butte in Bears Ears National Monument. There are two options for hiking out – Cave Spring or the Needles Campground. Exiting at Cave Spring makes for a shorter route, but the final 3.5 miles is along a sandy wash. Hiking out at the Needles Campground would mean an additional 1.3 miles, but it affords more views along the slickrock. We decided to finish our trip at Cave Spring, making the total distance 28.2 miles.

Along the route are four designated campsites: SC1, SC2, SC3, and SC4. There’s no dispersed camping until reaching the Salt/Horse Zone (after 14.1 miles). So, for us, it was critical that we got the campsites that we wanted. We wanted SC1 -> SC3 -> Salt/Horse Zone permits. SC2 was our backup to SC1, while SC4 was our backup to SC3. SC1 and SC2 are adjacent, and we had read that SC1 was more private. SC3 was preferable to SC4 because there’s a lot to see between SC1/SC2 and SC3, and we wanted time to explore.

The trail begins at 7,074′ of elevation, and ends at 4,931′. The trail descends initially, and is fairly level for the rest of the trip. The longest day for us would be the last one (day 4), while the other days were fairly low mileage. We decided to hike it south to north, so we would descend, rather than ascend, about 2,000 feet of elevation. About half way along Salt Creek Trail is a side trail to Angel Arch, the largest sandstone arch within Canyonlands NP. So we tacked on an additional 3.2 miles round-trip to see it.

Planning – Permits and Regulations

We were able to reserve the sites online, but the reservation system has changed since then. Starting in 2020, Canyonlands uses recreation.gov, and future blocks of campsites are available on four specific dates throughout the year. For example, on November 10, 2020, the permits for March 10 through June 9, 2021 became available. This makes it easier to grab the sites for your entire trip. (To reserve our campsites, I had to wait until 2am EST, for 3 nights straight, when the permits became available.)

With our permits secured, our next step was booking a shuttle, since this was a one-way hike. We contacted Coyote Shuttle, headquartered in Moab. We reserved our shuttle well in advance, for $300 (the cost now is around $375). Expensive, but worth it, and they were responsive and professional.

Next, it was time to research specific points of interest. We bought books and scoured the internet. Along the trail are numerous ruins, cliff dwellings, pictographs, and artifacts that were created thousands of years ago by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan (also called Anasazi) Native Americans. People lived in the region for roughly 2,000 years, starting as hunter-gatherers, and eventually farming. By 1200 AD, large groups of people lived in what is now Canyonlands, and the society reached its peak. Around 1300 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans left the area and migrated south toward Arizona and New Mexico, possibly due to drought.

Big Ruins, the largest archaeological site in Canyonlands, evokes a sense of grandeur. There are at least 20 structures high on a ledge. The Ancestral Puebloans also lived in what is now Mesa Verde National Park, so they have similarities. There are also smaller features within Salt Creek Canyon that are just as worthwhile. Directions to these landmarks are not always public knowledge, but you can find information about them online or in books with enough time and effort. To protect them, we won’t provide the specific locations of these special places.

A couple important details that are specific to the area: First, there is a small population of black bears in Salt Creek Canyon. In late summer, the bears migrate down from the nearby Abajo Mountains, so bear canisters are required along Salt Creek Canyon from March 15 to November 30 (and highly recommended at other times). This was the first time we needed a canister, and we bought a BearVault BV500, which sufficed for four days with two people. Another important thing to know is that all human waste must be packed out when camping at designated campsites (which includes SC 1-4). When we visited, only toilet paper needed to be packed out, but this changed in 2020.

Day 0 – To Moab

It’s also vital to know that Beef Basin Road, which leads to our trailhead at Cathedral Butte, is a rough dirt road. We expected the weather to be sunny and dry like our first trip to the area. But it rained heavily just before our trip, and it turns out that the road gets muddy and can become impassable after a downpour…so we weren’t sure what Beef Basin Road had in store for us. Other than that, the weather looked nice for our trip in late March – mid 60s to low 70s during the day, and 40s at night.

When we arrived in Moab, we checked into Inca Inn before heading to Coyote Shuttle to pay for the trip. While there, we were told that there was the possibility of snow/ice on the trail. We decided to stop by a local shop and grab some cheap crampons. Fortunately, we didn’t end up needing them, but I’m glad we had them just in case.

Day 1 – To Cathedral Butte

The next day, we woke up early and drove to Canyonlands National Park, Needles District. On the way we stopped at a few places with scenic views or attractions like Newspaper Rock. Once we arrived at the Needles Visitor Center, we got our backcountry camping permits. Since we had reserved an at-large area (Salt/Horse), we were required to pick up our permits from the Visitor Center (so a ranger could give us brief instructions before the trip).

At the visitor center, we also changed our permit to exit at the Needles Campground rather than Cave Spring. We decided we preferred to hike on slickrock instead of the sandy path to Cave Spring. But, we ended up exiting at Cave Spring anyway… we’ll get to that later.

Around 9:45 a.m., we met our shuttle driver, Farland, at the visitor center. We followed her in our car to the Needles Campground, where we parked. Then, we hopped in the jeep for our bumpy ride. Farland was very friendly and engaging. She told us about her past career as a teacher (Kristin is also a teacher), as well as her experiences in the Moab area.

Beef Basin Road goes through Bears Ears National Monument, where Cathedral Butte is located. Initially, the ride wasn’t too bad. We zipped across the dirt road with towering redrock monoliths beside us, and through a large pool of water. The further we went, the worse shape the road was in, until it got pretty muddy. Farland and the jeep were able to handle it all, and we got to the Cathedral Butte trailhead without any issues. She dropped us off at 11:30 a.m., and we thanked her profusely.

The trailhead was at the top of a cliff surrounded by pinyon and juniper. Looking out over Salt Creek Canyon – at 7,074 feet of elevation – gave us a scenic view of where we were heading. It’s intimidating to suddenly be dropped in the middle of nowhere with no transportation, aside from walking. There was some lingering snow around the parking area, as well as one other very muddy truck with chains on its tires.

Day 1 – Cathedral Butte to SC1

Before starting our hike, we checked out the trailhead sign. We signed the register, and found an NPS map describing a challenging marshy section about 2.5 miles into the trail. We snapped a photo of it, just in case. Around noon, we started our descent into Salt Creek. After 4.3 miles, we would reach our campsite.

Over the next 1.5 miles, we descended almost 1000 feet. It wasn’t hard, but the trail was steep and eroded in places. We were glad we were going down and not up! The weather was cool, but we quickly peeled off layers as we moved. There was a bit of scattered snow, but none on the trail. As we got lower, we started seeing cryptobiotic soil – which we made sure to avoid. The views were incredible, and we enjoyed looking back at Cathedral Butte, to see where we had come from.

Eventually, the route descended into a flat area with sagebrush, and then the sandy “bottom” of Upper Salt Creek Canyon. From there, we left Bears Ears National Monument and entered Canyonlands National Park. The vegetation around us started to change again until we were surrounded by tamarisk, rabbitbrush, willows, and other brush and grasses. We went through this section until we came to the marsh mentioned on the map at the trailhead, full of tall scouring reeds.

Initially, the path was easy to follow through the towering reeds. We crossed small streams that flowed through. While the park does have pink ribbons tied around reeds as markers to follow, they were difficult to find. The further in we went, the harder it was to navigate. We had read that hikers should bear right along the path toward the east side of the marsh, and we were able to figure our way through. But I can see the benefit of having the map (from the trailhead) just in case.

We brought binoculars so we could see some of the ruins and cliff dwellings that were further away. The marshy section was where (we think) we got our first glimpse of some granaries high up on a cliff along the east side of the trail.

Eventually, the trail follows a sandstone cliff to the east (our right). The trail is very clear here, and runs right past the first pictograph panel we saw. The panel has four handprints, as well as a small humanoid figure. We couldn’t help stretching out our hands and comparing them to the ones on the wall (without touching them). We wondered who created them and why. How long ago? Interesting thoughts and theories flooded our minds as we speculated.

Shortly after the pictograph is the first reliable water source – Kirk Spring. Water cascades down a sandstone slope and lands in a large pond. It’s very picturesque, but we didn’t linger too long. It’s close enough to our campsite that we would come back to filter later. 150 yards beyond the water source, we encountered the next historical treasure: Kirk’s Cabin.

A small hewn log cabin sits just next to the trail. Built in the 1890s by Renssalaer Lee Kirk, the cabin has stood for over 125 years. Kirk ranched there until 1905, when he abandoned the area because he couldn’t make a living. Scattered around the cabin are remnants of the ranching days: a corral, fences, even an old wagon. The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.

The cabin is open to visitors, so we went in and explored. Small trinkets (and unfortunately, trash left by other hikers) were strewn about. While the cabin is in decent shape considering its age, I imagine it’s seen better days. It’s hard to imagine living here; I’m sure it was a lonely experience.

Just past Kirk’s Cabin is a small trail to the right that leads to two campsites: SC1 and SC2. We were staying at SC1, so we headed back on the spur, where it split to each individual campsite. We assumed SC2 was booked, but we didn’t see anyone else. Our campsite was large, quiet, and private. We set up our camp, ate dinner, and headed to bed.

Day 2 – SC1 to Big Pocket

The next morning we woke up refreshed and excited for the day. There are so many things to see on the next stretch of trail: the All American Man, Four Faces, Squash Patch, Big Ruins, Ring Arch, and numerous other points of interest. We only planned to hike five miles, so we could focus on exploring. But first, we needed to filter some water…which became more of an issue than we anticipated.

On the way out of the campsite, we spotted Kirk Arch across the canyon. It’s difficult to see because there is another rock face behind the opening. We had missed it the day before, but once you know where it is, you can’t miss it. We headed left on Salt Creek Trail, passed Kirk’s Cabin, and backtracked to the pond.

Our water filter of choice is a Sawyer Squeeze. While we’ve used other systems in the past, we’ve found it to have the best balance of utility, weight, and ease of use. We filled up our water pouches at Kirk Spring, attached them to the filter, and squeezed – water should come out the other side into our bottles. But nothing came out. Not worried yet, we backwashed the filter. It still didn’t work. Insert expletive here.

Before our trip, we had picked up supplies at the REI in Grand Junction, Colorado. On a whim we also bought some water purification tablets. We’d never carried or used them before, but we were glad we had them. Without the tablets, we would have needed to boil water, taking away our precious fuel. And we hadn’t even seen another hiker at this point, so borrowing wasn’t an option.

We brought a limited number of tablets, so we had to conserve them as much as possible. Part of that meant allowing the water to warm to “room temperature” before we added the tablets, and calculating how much water to put into each container (we used hydration bladders, which made it easier). And, two new takeaways from the trip: first, test our water filter before leaving, and second, bring purification tablets as a backup.

After figuring out the water situation, we headed north past Kirk’s Cabin, then past the wooden fence built by Kirk himself. The fences are fairly intricate, even though barbed wire was available at the time. About a third of a mile later, we came to our first easily accessible ruins – two small granaries tucked in an alcove – not far from the trail. It’s special to be able to get up close (but not too close) to the ruins. Back on the main trail, we spotted another unnamed arch across the canyon to the west. It’s scenic, yet inaccessible. Sometimes this is also referred to as Kirk Arch.

As we continued on the trail, we spotted signs of wildlife. On the path was hairy scat, most likely from coyotes which frequent the area. Also on this stretch, we saw the most peculiar insects – red and yellow colored hairy ants. They lived in holes on the trail. We later learned that they’re called velvet ants, but are actually a type of wasp! They can sting, but thankfully aren’t aggressive.

Soon after, we came upon the Big Pocket area to our right (east) where we spotted a Great Basin gopher snake in the brush. They aren’t poisonous, but we didn’t know that at the time, so we stayed well away. We knew there were additional ruins in the Big Pocket Area, but we continued on the main trail since there was so much to explore.

Day 2 – Big Ruins, Wedding Ring Arch, Squash Granary

Looking west, we saw Big Ruins about 0.4 miles from the trail. If you know where to look, the ruins are easy to find. Located on a cliff, it’s the largest collection of Ancestral Puebloan Ruins in Canyonlands. This site was one reason I wanted to hike Salt Creek. Most ruins are tucked into a ledge about 70 feet off the ground. To get closer to the ruins, we found a social spur trail immediately after a large diamond shaped rock. As we approached, the ruins slowly came into focus. Black soot covered the ceiling of the ledges, remnants of fires from over 700 years ago.

At our feet were numerous pottery pieces, so many that we had to make sure we didn’t step on any. Previous visitors had placed most of them on rocks to help protect them. The pieces have various patterns and colors, and we promptly tried to find our favorite designs. As always, leave no trace and do not remove any artifacts from the site.

Metate and mano – tools that were used to grind corn – are also in this area. So logically, there were dried corncobs there too. Could these be over 700 years old? At the bottom of the sandstone cliffs are granary ruins, where corn was likely stored so long ago. On the higher ledge with the structures, we spotted more handprints. There’s no way to get to the ledge, so they’re protected. The Ancestral Puebloans likely used ladders, which have long since disappeared, to access the structures. Big Ruins are awe-inspiring and they lived up to my expectations.

After exploring for as long as we could, we returned to the main trail. Far in the distance we saw a peculiar shape – Fisheye Arch. Another nearby arch (which isn’t as visible), is also sometimes referred to as Fisheye Arch. Shortly after, we went about 600 feet off the main trail to check out Wedding Ring Arch.

As we were heading to Wedding Ring Arch, we met the first person we’d seen since starting the trail. We were surprised to learn that he was a day hiker, but we weren’t sure where he started from. He had been looking for the All American Man pictograph. While we didn’t know exactly where it was, we knew it was to the north, so we mentioned that. But he was running out of time, and headed south. If he couldn’t find the pictograph, we started to worry that we wouldn’t be able to either.

Wedding Ring Arch is almost a perfect circle, if you look from the right angle. It’s large, about 200 feet high and 150 feet wide. Like Fisheye Arch, another Wedding Ring Arch is located before Kirk’s Cabin on some maps. But this one looks more like a ring than that one. Once we got some photos, we headed back to the main trail. The path goes through some wide open sagebrush areas, through reeds, and then back into sagebrush. Well worn hiker-made trails weave their way from Salt Creek Trail to our next destination – the Squash Plant Ruins.

Three granary ruins sit below an alcove. There are many granaries in Salt Creek, but what makes these unique is the squash plants growing in front of them. They likely grew from seeds originally planted by the Puebloans over 700 years ago! As far as we know, this is the only area in Salt Creek that has squash plants.

We were lucky to spot an old squash from the previous year, now hollow. How cool is that? Seeing it helped us imagine what it would have been like to live there long ago. More handprints above the granaries round out this special area.

Day 2 – All American Man, Four Faces, SC3

There was still more to see in this section of Salt Creek. Next were two of the most iconic pictographs: the All American Man and Four Faces. But first, we spotted a few ruins high up in a crack on a sandstone cliff. It’s mind-blowing to ponder how they might have been built. Shortly after, we came to the well-known All American Man basically right next to the trail. It’s located in a crevice in the wall, about 10 to 15 feet above the ground, with some ruins behind it. Below we found a canister with a hiker log, which we signed.

The All American Man is aptly named – a six-foot tall round figure, decked out in red, white, and blue, along with a narrow head and strange antennae. There is even what appears to be an American flag (but of course, it isn’t) near the figure’s “waist.” It’s vivid and spectacular. The blue color is actually gray, but it appears blue in the dim light and among the surrounding red sandstone. At some point, a visitor outlined the pictograph with white chalk – a practice that has damaged many petroglyphs and pictographs. Please treat all ruins with respect, and follow leave no trace.

The trail briefly veers to the west after the All American Man and goes through a crack in the sandstone. While it was probably unnecessary for the trail to go this way, it does make for an interesting scramble. Afterward, we made our way through dense reeds and other thick vegetation. About 30 minutes past the All American Man, we arrived at some ruins and the next pictograph – the Four Faces.

Most of the ruins in Canyonlands are from the Ancestral Puebloan culture, but Four Faces was created by the Fremont people. The two groups are distinct, and they overlapped in the area. The Four Faces is well preserved, considering it’s over 700 years old. The red colors are vivid, and it looks like it could have been painted yesterday. There are other “face” pictographs in Canyonlands, but most are in poorer condition. One of the nearby ruins was likely a kiln or hearth, as it’s blackened with soot inside.

Four Faces Spring, which would be our next water source, is located near the pictograph. The spring is also only a short walk from SC3 campsite. There, we met the second person that we’d seen so far. He was doing a through hike on The Hayduke Trail, which goes from Arches National Park through much of Southern Utah, then into Northern Arizona before ending in Zion National Park. An alternate route goes through Salt Creek. As we talked, we started feeling a bit uncomfortable with some things he was discussing. Then, he asked to stay in our campsite, and we realized that he likely did not have any permits. We’re usually pretty flexible, but due to some odd vibes we declined.

Continuing, we crossed Salt Creek and walked another 0.2 miles to reach SC3, our campsite for the night. The site is nice and big, and more open than SC1. Once we set up camp, I headed back to Four Faces Spring to get some water.

I peered into the pond and was surprised to see some large salamanders. These were Tiger Salamanders, the only species of salamander in the park. As I was taking this in, a small bat flew over the surface of the pond looking for insects. There’s so much wildlife here! I only had my cell phone on me on, so the pictures aren’t great. I headed back to camp for dinner. I tried out a GOOD TO-GO Bibimbap meal – it was not very good, which was disappointing since we’ve liked the brand’s other meals.

Day 3 – SC3 to Angel Arch Camp

We started early on day 3. Our plan was to hike 5.3 miles to a dispersed campsite, then head down a side trail to check out Angel Arch. The hike started out in sagebrush and led us to some geometric rock art, before reaching Upper Jump. This is a small waterfall, and would be a good place to get water if we had needed it. The creek bed then drops about 25 feet, and the trail gets greener, wetter, and narrower. We soon found ourselves surrounded by rabbitbrush, willows, and other vegetation. It was a welcome change.

For the next 2.3 miles or so after Upper Jump, we saw lots of trees and crossed numerous streams. The National Park Service has constructed simple wooden bridges across most of the streams. Cottonwood leaves crunched under our feet. Eventually, the trail rose above Salt Creek Canyon. We spotted rock art known as the Paper Dolls, since it looks like a string of figures holding hands. Shortly after, the trail took us back down into the canyon.

We neared the SC4 campsite and decided to check it out and take a short break. It’s a nice large site, with plenty of shade, privacy, and logs to sit on (always important!). Past SC4, the trail becomes harder to navigate, but it follows Salt Creek (more or less) as it winds its way north. About an hour and a half after SC4, we arrived at the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Angel Arch would have to wait, as we wanted to set up camp first.

After this intersection, the trail crosses into the Salt/Horse backpacking zone. This area allows for dispersed camping (best practice is to select a previously established site). We continued north on Salt Creek Trail, and in 0.2 miles we reached the area where we would camp. Formerly known as Angel Arch Camp, it’s an open area that features large cottonwood trees…or at least it did until a wildfire in 2016. According to some forums, the fire may have been caused by humans, but I never found a reliable source. It’s still a nice area to camp, but I imagine it used to be even better with the shade and privacy of the trees. As a reminder, campfires are not permitted in the backcountry.

– A brief historical interlude –

Incredibly, Salt Creek Trail north of the Angel Arch intersection, as well as the trail to Angel Arch, used to be open to motor vehicles. In 1998, the trail was closed by the NPS to protect the habitat and archaeological resources. After years of litigation, the trail has remained closed. It’s almost unthinkable for vehicles to drive through a riparian area which is so important to the delicate ecosystem.

While I’m glad 4WD vehicles are no longer in this part of Salt Creek, we found signs of past use, like scratches on rocks and abnormally wide trails. That said, the area has recovered quite well. Wildlife, like black bears, has started to repopulate the area (mainly in a late-summer migration from the Abajo Mountains). Some vehicle tracks have been overgrown with vegetation. Salt Creek itself has began to run clear, and riparian vegetation has increased.

Day 3 – Angel Arch Trail

After setting up our campsite, we headed back south to the Angel Arch Trail intersection. The trail goes 1.6 miles before reaching the arch. Initially, it was easy to follow, and we found some ruins and pictographs on a nearby cliff. The further we went, the wetter and more difficult to navigate it became.

Curiously, some maps have this trail incorrectly labeled as “Abbey’s Triple Arch Trail,” assumedly dedicated to Edward Abbey. Abbey’s Triple Arch is actually located in The Maze district.

Eventually we spotted Angel Arch. Morning lighting would have been better, since the sun is behind the arch in the afternoon, but this was the only time we’d have to see the arch. Cairns guided us up slickrock, to a rock formation known as “the molar.” It supposedly resembles a tooth, though it looked more like a heart to us.

Behind the molar stands Angel Arch. Its size, unique shape, and remoteness make it impressive. Originally, the formation was named Pegasus Arch until 1963, when it was officially named Angel Arch. There is supposedly a cairned 1.5 mile (round trip) trail that leads to the base of the arch, but we didn’t have the time or energy to do it. Thankfully the sky was a bit cloudy, which helped us get some decent photos.

We had brought our cooking gear with us, so we made dinner and ate while enjoying a view of the arch. It’s a great memory – just the two of us, relaxing and enjoying the beautiful scenery. Next, we headed back the way we came until we reached our campsite. We fell asleep to the gentle, and thankfully brief, rain that fell on our tent.

Day 4 – Angel Arch Camp to Peekaboo

The next morning we woke up to slightly damp ground. It felt cold and dreary initially, but the weather warmed up as the day went on. For the most part, the trail followed Salt Creek, which had places where we could have filtered water if we needed it. The trail opened up into wide, flat sandstone, which was beautiful and fun to hike. The Salt/Horse Zone allows for dispersed camping, and we stumbled upon a few established campsites (see Google Map below). About 1.1 miles beyond Angel Arch Camp, the trail passes right by Crescent Arch, high in the sandstone.

This was also the section where we started running into more people, since it’s possible to day hike here from the Needles Campground. First, we ran into some backpackers who were heading south. As we talked, we learned they were from the DC area too. They had a wide range of campsite permits that had taken them from Lost Canyon into Salt Creek. They mentioned that Peekaboo Trail was particularly scary. We didn’t think anything of the warning at the time, but knew we would be on that trail shortly.

One of the last major pictographs along the trail, the Flying Carpet Panel, is shortly before Peekaboo Arch. We managed to find a spur trail that led to the panel. Unlike earlier pictographs such as the All American Man or Four Faces, this panel is Barrier Canyon style. Another example of this style is The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon. The Flying Carpet Panel features several figures of varying sizes, and neat red handprints. It’s an impressive collection of pictographs.

After hiking about 6.5 miles from Angel Arch Camp, we reached Peekaboo Arch. It’s very unique and looks almost like it was punched out of a fin. The trail goes right through the arch. Formerly, it looped around the entire fin, but that’s no longer the “official” trail. Which is nice, since going through saves about half a mile.

We hiked up the slickrock and passed through the arch. We turned immediately left to admire a well known pictograph next to the opening of the arch. It was created by the Fremont Native Americans. If you look closely, you can see that it was painted over faint red artwork that is even older. Handprints are also nearby. There were a few people here, which was unsurprising since the area is accessible from the Needles Campground.

Looking down, we spotted Peekaboo Camp, a designated campsite. The 4WD road to Peekaboo Camp is only open a few weeks throughout the year based on weather and driving conditions, but we didn’t see any cars nearby, and no one seemed to be camping at Peekaboo that day. We had read about the nearby Peekaboo Spring but weren’t able to find it, but there did seem to be pools of water right before the arch.

Day 4 – Peekaboo Trail

After this point, Salt Creek Road heads north to Cave Spring Trailhead, where we originally planned to end our hike. When we picked up our permit, we had switched our point of exit to the Needles Campground (previously known as Squaw Flat Campground), since we thought hiking on slickrock would be preferable to sand. So instead of heading north, we hiked west from Peekaboo Campsite, onto Peekaboo Trail. The trail ascends onto benches – areas with vertical rock both above and below. The 4.7 mile trail is primarily on slickrock until you reach the campground.

Our first obstacle was a ladder in a crack between fins. Climbing it was a lot of fun, even though our backpacks were a tight fit. Once on top, we spotted a small ruin nearby. As we followed the cairns along the slickrock, the views became more and more impressive. We scrambled up to the benches and ledges above the canyon. At one point, we climbed through a small window in the sandstone.

We continued until we got to an area that seemed sketchy, and recalled the backpackers who told us about this earlier in the day. The narrow, sloped sandstone goes for about 10-15 feet, and has a sheer drop-off. As I started to go across it, my foot slipped. I caught myself and backed up. By this point we were looking around, trying to figure out if this was even the right spot, and were a bit freaked out.

We decided not to risk it and backtracked out of Peekaboo Trail. Our only other option was to hike out to Cave Spring. The trail to Cave Spring is shorter than the hike to the Needles Campground – but our car was parked in the campground. We would need to walk an additional 3.6 miles along the road to reach our car.

Looking at photos of Peekaboo Trail, that narrow area doesn’t look so bad. But I still think we made the right choice for our safety. When hiking and backpacking, it’s vital to trust your instincts and know your limits. Online, it looks like other hikers get past that section just fine, though some blogs mention that it’s scary (a chain or bar would help). Someday, we intend to go back and take another look.

Day 4 – Peekaboo to Cave Spring Trailhead

We headed back toward Peekaboo Campground, our emotions still running pretty high. It was going to be a very long day, so we had to move at a good pace. From there, we went north on Salt Creek Road. It’s flat and obviously used by vehicles. It’s also a huge pain to hike because it’s covered in sand.

I tried to keep a steady pace ahead of Kristin to keep us going. Eventually I tired out, and she took over the lead. The setting sun blazed into our eyes as we tried to find areas with firmer ground. There’s nothing special about the road, but we were more focused on getting out of there than sight-seeing. After 3.4 miles (which seemed like an eternity) we reached the Cave Spring Trailhead.

From there, we hiked an additional 3.6 miles to the campground along a paved road. Once we got back to our car, we were exhausted and it was late. We had hiked around 16 miles that day. We drove back to Moab, grabbed some fast food (from the golden arches), and crashed at our hotel for the night.

The End?

Overall, the trip was an amazing adventure (in spite of our issues with the water filter and Peekaboo Trail). It was one of my favorite trips we’ve ever done, particularly because of the archaeological features. Pictographs like the All American Man and Four Faces are iconic sites that are forever burned into my memory. It was worth all the time it took to plan the route, campsites, and shuttle.

We wish Peekaboo Trail had worked out for us. It’s far more scenic than Salt Creek Road to Cave Spring. The parts of Peekaboo we hiked provided sweeping views, and it was very different compared with the first three days of our trip. If you’re feeling brave, I recommend exiting at the Needles Campground. If you want to play it safe, exit at Cave Spring. A compromise could include a short hike to Peekaboo Trail to see the views and sandstone rims, then exit at Cave Spring.

There’s still more to see in Salt Creek (and the rest of the Needles district). Salt Creek has many side canyons, arches, and other geological features. There are more ruins, pictographs, and petroglyphs out there to find. Someday we plan to go back and explore even more. Until then, I hope this special place stays protected for everyone that visits in the future.

Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (Cathedral Butte to Cave Spring)

Date: Sunday, April 14, 2019 – Wednesday, April 17, 2019
Type: 3-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 28.2 miles (45.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +1093 feet (333 m), -3240 feet (988 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 142 feet (43 m) gain, 1301 feet (397 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC1
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 289 feet (88 m) gain, 555 feet (169 m) loss
  • Time: 8 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC3
• Day 3:
  • Distance: 8.9 miles (14.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 494 feet (151 m) gain, 770 feet (235 m) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring (not including the hour we spent at Angel Arch)
  • Overnight: Salt/Horse Zone (Angel Arch Camp)
• Day 4 (assumes exiting at Cave Spring):
  • Distance: 9.9 miles (15.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 168 feet (51 m) gain, 614 feet (187 m) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring

Trail Markings: Cairns, pink ribbons through the marshy area on the first day
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, small waterfalls, ponds
Highlights: Views, archaeological sites, wildlife, history, waterfalls, geological features
Directions to Cathedral Butte Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: Alternately, you could go the opposite direction, but we highly recommend south to north.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Cathedral Butte Trailhead, go north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 3.9 mi – Pass Kirk Spring on the left, a reliable water source.
• 4.0 mi – Pass Kirk’s Cabin on the right.
• 4.1 mi – Turn right onto the spur to SC1 and SC2. The spur then splits to each individual campsite.
• 4.3 mi – Arrive at SC1/SC2. In the morning, retrace your steps back to Salt Creek Trail.
• 4.4 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail, heading north.
• 6.3 mi – Wedding Ring Arch is nearby. Find a social trail that avoids cryptobiotic soil if you’d like to get closer.
• 8.2 mi – The trail passes close by the All American Man Pictograph.
• 8.8 mi – Cross over Salt Creek, and Four Faces Spring, another great place for water. Right before the spring is the Four Faces Pictograph and ruins.
• 9.4 mi – A small spur trail leads to the SC3 campsite. Stay the night, then continue north on Salt Creek Trail in the morning.
• 12.5 mi – Pass by the spur trail to the SC4 campsite.
• 14.4 mi – You’ve reached the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 14.6 mi – Reach Angel Arch Camp. You can set up your tent here, or wherever you prefer since this is part of the Salt/Horse Dispersed Camping Zone. Just remember, the best site is found, not created. After setting up camp, head back south to the Angel Arch intersection.
• 14.9 mi – Turn left onto Angel Arch Trail.
• 16.5 mi – You’ve arrived at the Molar and Angel Arch. Enjoy! If desired, take the social trail (some scrambling required) to the base of the arch. Head back along Angel Arch Trail when ready.
• 18.1 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail.
• 18.3 mi – Arrive back at your campsite. In the morning, continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 24.8 mi – You’ve arrived at Peekaboo Arch. Continue on the trail, and go through the arch in the fin. Peekaboo Camp, as well as some petroglyphs, are on the other side. Hike through the camp, and continue north on Salt Creek Road.
• 28.2 mi – Salt Creek Road ends at Cave Spring Trailhead, where hopefully you have a car waiting for you. You’re done!

Places

• Cathedral Butte | 37.952721, -109.698471
• Cave Spring | 38.149672, -109.755018
• The Needles Campground | 38.149594, -109.792086
• Kirk Spring | 37.983303, -109.745977
• Kirk Cabin | 37.985556, -109.743722
• SC1 Campsite | 37.98435, -109.74228
• SC2 Campsite | 37.98604, -109.74163
• Wedding Ring Arch | 38.01104, -109.74082
• Four Faces Spring | 38.03934, -109.76152
• SC3 Campsite | 38.03909, -109.76403
• Upper Jump | 38.043318, -109.764622
• SC4 Campsite | 38.055420, -109.770040
• Angel Arch Camp | 38.069867, -109.766616
• Angel Arch | 38.05203, -109.75681
• Peekaboo Camp | 38.114878, -109.754435

Maps

• Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (KTNP)
• The Needles District (NPS)
• The Needles Backcountry Zone Map (NPS)

Links

• NPS
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Permits (recreation.gov)
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Regulations (NPS)
  • Salt Creek Archaeology (NPS)
  • American Indians in Canyonlands (NPS)
• History of Trail
  • NPS Action and History on Salt Creek Canyon Road in 2004 (federalregister.gov)
  • NPS Environmental Assessment : Middle Salt Creek Canyon Access Plan from 2002 (Utah State University)

Planning Resources

• Salt Creek Canyon Trail (UtahTrails)
• Coyote Shuttle
• Books
  • Canyonlands National Park Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails by David Day
  • Hiking, Biking and Exploring Canyonlands National Park and Vicinity by Michael Kelsey

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Our trip to Arches National Park was an adventure. We’ve captured our favorite hikes, dislikes, what we wished we had done, and other tips. We also provide information about visitation statistics and weather which are important considerations when visiting any national park. Here are our takeaways – we hope you can use it as a planning guide for your trip to Arches.

Overview

Arches National Park, located in eastern Utah near the town of Moab, was established to protect the high density of natural sandstone arches, bridges, and other rock formations. Established in 1929 as a National Monument, it was designated as a National Park in 1971. It’s the home of the well known Delicate Arch, which can be seen on tourism literature as well as the Utah state license plate. The fifth longest arch in the world, Landscape Arch, is also in the park.

American author Edward Abbey had been a park ranger in Arches NP from 1956 to 1957. His book, Desert Solitaire, chronicles his experiences within the park. Travis read the book before our trip, which gave him a better understanding of the area.

Compared to other National Parks, Arches is on the smaller side at 76,678 acres. This is similar in size to Theodore Roosevelt and Great Basin National Parks. It’s small enough that we felt like we had a good understanding of the park as a whole by the end of our 5-day visit.

There are plenty of recreational opportunities within the park including hiking, camping, backpacking, and canyoneering. For our trip, we focused on hiking and camping. We enjoyed the vast majority of hikes we did, and each offers something unique.

Our Top 5 in Arches National Park

1. Fiery Furnace – To limit the impact to the land, a permit is required to access Fiery Furnace. The ultimate adventure in the park, hikers can join a ranger-led tour (spring through fall) or do a self-guided hike. We opted for the latter; and had fun getting lost while exploring the picturesque rock formations. We also enjoyed the solitude the area affords.

   

2. Delicate Arch Trail – Hiking to the iconic Delicate Arch was a priority. It’s worth the hype (and crowds), as it boasts a gorgeous arch and other rock formations, interesting terrain, and even some petroglyphs. The La Sal Mountains provide a striking backdrop.

   

3. Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail – This hike can be as long or short as you want, and can be done as a loop or out-and-back. It provides views of Landscape Arch, the fifth longest arch in the world, as well as many other impressive arches. It’s a crowded hike, but the farther you go the fewer people there are.

   

4. Devils Garden Campground – The only campground within the park is centrally located so it’s easy to get out and explore. Additionally, it has sweeping views and convenient, thoughtful amenities. It’s one of our favorite campgrounds we’ve visited.

   

5. Moab – The town of Moab is located just outside the park, but we’re still giving it a mention. We loved Main Street and the variety of restaurants. Even if you’re not a foodie, there’s something for everyone. The only downside for us is that it can be crowded and touristy, depending on when you visit.

   

Mini Adventures

During our trip to Arches National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Balanced Rock – We stopped to check out this popular feature as we drove to Devils Garden Campground on our way into the park. It’s visible from the main road and easy to access. A short 0.3 mile hike loops around a precariously balanced sandstone rock. We enjoyed the walk and views of the surrounding landscape.

  

• Courthouse Wash Rock Art Panel – This pictograph is located just north of Moab, along US Route 191. A small parking lot on the border of Arches National Park leads to a bike trail. We hiked one mile round-trip to see the panel, along with other petroglyphs, at the base of a nearby cliff. Sadly, the rock art was severely damaged in 1980; it’s faint, but still visible.

  

• Park Avenue – This 2.0 mile round-trip out and back trail is the first hike you’ll reach when entering the park. That said, it was our least favorite. There were simply too many people (especially stepping off-trail), and its features didn’t seem as special to us as other hikes in the park. If you only have time for one hike, we recommend choosing another one. There are decent views of a few rock formations, like Three Gossips and Courthouse Towers.

  

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Backcountry Camping – When we planned our trip, it was our intention to backpack in the park. But the park closed down dispersed camping, and transitioned to designated campsites only, so there weren’t any options for backcountry camping during our visit. Currently, there are backcountry sites located off Devils Garden Primitive Trail and Courthouse Wash.
• Lost Spring Canyon – This north-east section of the park was added in 1998. There are no trails here, and we thought it would be a fun backpacking destination. Dispersed camping had been allowed, but was suspended shortly before our visit. Day hiking in the area is a priority next time we visit.
• Courthouse Wash – This route requires some navigation skills, and isn’t as well-advertised as others in the park. There are two sections of Courthouse Wash. The upper wash runs from the main park road to the western border. The lower wash begins along the east side of the main park road and runs to the southern border. Both have options for backcountry camping, or could be done as a shuttle hike or short out-and-back. It’s one of the few hikes in the park that may have a significant amount of water along the trail.

  

• Autotouring – There are a couple of 4WD roads within the park that interested us, specifically in Willow Flats and Herdina Park. We were curious to see what they had to offer, even though we focus mostly on hiking, camping, and backpacking.
• And many more…

Weather

Arches NP can be very hot, especially during late spring and summer. You’ll want to bring ample water, snacks, sunscreen, and a hat. March through May and September through October are the best times to visit Arches NP. We went in March and highly recommend it. Rain isn’t much of a concern since the area gets so little. As mentioned, the summer gets HOT, so we don’t recommend visiting during this time. If you do visit in summer, get out early, avoid mid-day, and bring lots of water.

Visitation Statistics

May through August is the most popular time to visit the park, assumedly because of summer break. We visited during spring break – there were fewer people, and the weather was milder. If you’re constrained by a school calendar, we recommend going during spring break instead.

Even in spring, the park is still booming with visitors, to the point where there are almost too many people. The chart below shows the influx of visitors by year. It’s been steadily increasing, aside from a drop in 2020 due to COVID-19. During the busiest times of the day (especially during the high season), the park entrance will close temporarily until enough visitors leave the park. Typically the park entrance closes mid-morning, and reopens in the early afternoon.

There have been discussions about alternate solutions. From April 3 to October 3, 2022, the park has implemented a timed entry pilot program. Visitors must reserve a ticket to enter the park between 6 a.m. and 5 p.m. This will require planning ahead, but should lessen congestion in the park. Of course, the best option might be to camp at Devils Garden Campground so you don’t have to worry about reserving a pass or re-entering the park.

Our Itinerary

We started our exploration of the park with hikes near Devils Garden Campground. Our planned itinerary worked well, but there are countless ways to plan your trip.

If you only have time for one hike, we recommend:

• Short Hike: Double Arch
• Medium Hike: Devils Garden Trail to Landscape Arch
• Long Hike: Delicate Arch

Our Experiences

• Devils Garden Campground
• Tower Arch Trail
• Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arch Loop Trail
• Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail
• Windows Loop and Double Arch Trails
• Delicate Arch Trail
• Fiery Furnace
• Moab Accommodations & Restaurants

Interactive Map

Paper Maps

• Arches National Park Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)
• Arches National Park Maps (NPS)

The post Best Hikes, Itinerary and Planning Guide appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Once again it was spring break, and time to explore our national parks. This time, we were headed to Utah. Most of our time would be spent in Arches National Park, with a couple days in Canyonlands. Based on flight cost and arrival time, we decided to fly into Grand Junction, Colorado and drive almost two hours to Moab, Utah. We planned to spend our first two nights at Devils Garden Campground, the only developed campground in Arches National Park.

Like most campgrounds in national parks, Devils Garden is very popular, so we researched and made a list of preferred sites ahead of time. Sites in the high teens and low 20s have very good views, but more sun and wind exposure. Sites in the 40s and 50s have fewer scenic views, but more shade and wind protection.

We were particularly interested in campsites that have better views. The moment the sites became available six months ahead of our visit, we logged into Recreation.gov to book. Campsites go quick – we got one of our top choices (site #24), but we would’ve been happy with any site.

Getting There

Our flight arrived in Grand Junction at 10 a.m., giving us plenty of time to drive into Moab. As we flew in, the mountains and mesa that surround the city were covered in snow. Colorado National Monument is close by, and we made a mental note to check it out someday. After picking up our rental car, we stopped at Walmart and REI for supplies.

We decided to take a longer scenic route to Moab via UT-128, as recommended by the car rental agency, rather than I-70. The snow-capped La Sal Mountains appeared intermittently throughout the trip. Afterwards, we passed by the creepy ghost town of Cisco. Stepping on the gas, we crossed the Colorado River on Dewey Suspension Bridge, and followed the river into Moab.

Our car weaved between red mesas, colorful mountains, spires, and other picturesque formations. All the colors, shapes, and textures created amazing views with the La Sals in the background. There were many pull-offs, so we stopped a few times to take photos. We also carefully watched for cyclists around blind curves. Eventually, we crossed the Colorado River again, passed Moab, and arrived at Arches National Park.

Entering Arches National Park

Cars were backed up at the park entrance, which seems to happen often. Thankfully, it was late afternoon and other visitors were leaving, so it only took five minutes to enter. We went to the visitor center right away to get water. It had a slight chlorine taste, but we wanted to make sure we had enough (and it’s free). We’d be back at the visitor center the following day to book Fiery Furnace permits and learn about the geology of the area.

Devils Garden Campground is located at the opposite end of Arches NP, so we essentially had to drive through the entire park (18 miles) to get there. We really enjoyed the drive, which was like a mini-orientation. As the road ascended, we spotted well-known rock formations like the Three Gossips. We stopped for a quick 0.3 mile walk around Balanced Rock, which was interesting to observe from different angles.

Devils Garden Campground

In the early 1920s, an immigrant prospector named Alexander Ringhoffer explored Klondike Bluffs, a rugged area with fins and arches in what is now the west side of Arches National Park. When Arches was designated as a national monument in 1929, the Klondike Bluffs area was initially left out. Interestingly, Ringhoffer originally called this section Devils Garden, but that name was transposed onto the area we now know as Devils Garden.

Finally, we reached the campground at the end of the main park road. It looked just like the photos (that isn’t always the case). Near the entrance, we saw the host cabin where firewood was available, but the hosts were away. On the way to our site, we ran into the hosts and chatted with them. Later, they would bring by firewood ($5/bundle) and newspaper for kindling.

Arriving at our campsite, we remembered our conversation months earlier about all the site variables – views vs wind protection vs privacy. We had opted for views, and our site delivered. The nearby rock formations and La Sal Mountains in the distance were exactly the vibe we wanted. Now for the downside – it was very windy, around 20 mph with stronger gusts.

We organized our gear, and starting cooking a dinner of hotdogs with peppers, onions, and Old Bay seasoning. It took many attempts to start a fire due to the wind, but we got it going eventually. After dinner, we started exploring the campground. We made sure not to step on the delicate cryptobiotic soil, which was everywhere. This soil contains microorganisms and is essential to the health of the local ecosystem since it helps limit erosion and retain water.

Across the road from our campsite was a path to the campground amphitheater. And beyond that was our first arch – Skyline Arch. Scrambling up and around rocks and boulders, we found a path to get closer to it. It was a lot of fun to take photos of (and with) the arch. Stars were visible at 8:15 p.m., even though the sky had been overcast earlier. Arches NP often has a clear night sky, and we spotted two constellations – Orion and the Big Dipper.

Exhausted, we went back to our campsite and crashed. Around midnight, our next door neighbors were being a bit loud, but we talked to them and they quieted down. We felt bad, as they had been up celebrating something, but we appreciated it. After that, the campground was nice and quiet, so we got a good nights’ sleep.

The Next Day – More Adventures

In the morning, we woke up to a cool, partly cloudy day, which slowly warmed up. We got breakfast, and scared off some birds (probably crows or ravens) so they wouldn’t get into our gear and food. Next, we returned to the visitor center to get permits for Fiery Furnace, then hiked to Tower Arch. Later that afternoon, we headed back to the campground to hike the route to Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arches. The trail passes through the campground, so it was convenient to do while staying there.

The trail was fun, but the weather was becoming increasingly windy, foreshadowing what happened when we arrived back at our campsite. Our tent had blown free of half its stakes, and the poles were bending considerably. Thankfully, we were able to wrangle everything and prevent it from blowing away. If we had gotten there a few minutes later though, who knows what would have happened. If we stay at a similarly exposed site next time, we would secure the tent with some rocks. This was the tradeoff for those views we wanted.

After the mishap with our tent, we decided to sleep in our car. It was chilly, but our double quilt kept us fairly warm (though individual sleeping bags would have been better in this situation). In the morning, the wind had died down. It had been our last night in the campground, so we packed up and headed to Devils Garden Trail, a popular nearby hike.

Since Arches tends to have excellent conditions for stargazing, I had really wanted to do some night photography. In the end, I only took a few photos, due to the wind and cold nighttime temperature.

Even with a few weather-related complaints, we really enjoyed staying at Devils Garden Campground and highly recommend it. It’s one of our favorite campgrounds so far. And the location is perfect – many hikes are close by, and you don’t have to wait in line to enter the park every day. Just…don’t leave a backpacking tent on an exposed site during a very windy day without securing it further.

Devils Garden Campground | 51 Campsites

Dates Visited: March 24 – 26, 2018
Location: 18 miles from the park’s main entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities:  Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush/Vault Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling| Firewood for Sale
Dates Open: Year Round (with reduced availability in winter)
Prices: $25/night for individual tent campsite | $75-$250/night for group campsite depending on number of campers
Reservations: All sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. From November to February, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Views, Located in the Park, Skyline Arch
Best Sites: The sites on the north and east sides of the campground, with numbers in the 10s and 20s, typically have better views and are more exposed to the elements. Sites in the south of the campground, numbered in the 40s and 50s, have more rock formations for wind protection and privacy. For the best views check out sites 18, 20, 21, 23, or 24. If you’re looking for a site that’s spacious, private, and near large rocks, look at 48, 50, or 51. But you can’t really go wrong with any site.
Notes: There are two group campsites and 49 individual sites. Check-out time is 10:00 am.

Places

• Devils Garden Campground | 38.7782749, -109.5860319
• Skyline Arch | 38.7782749, -109.5860319

Maps

• Devils Garden Campground Map

Links

• Devils Garden Campground (NPS)
• Devils Garden Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)
• Cryptobiotic Soil Article (NPS)

Interactive Map

The post Devils Garden Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Mazama is the largest and most centrally-located campground in the park. When we visited, it was managed by Xanterra, a concessioner that manages guest services in a number of parks. This was new to us, as every other campground we’ve stayed at in a National Park was run by the NPS. Since our visit, Aramark has become the concessioner, so some of these details may no longer be accurate. In general, we’ve had better experiences at NPS-run campgrounds.

Finding a Campsite

We reserved a campsite online when they first became available a few months in advance. Unlike the NPS-run campgrounds we’ve visited, where we reserved the site of our choice, we were only able to reserve a “type” of campsite based on size – in our case, a 12-ft x 12-ft tent site.

As we drove into the campground area, we found parking in a large lot next to Annie Creek Restaurant and Gift Shop. We checked in at a nearby kiosk, and the attendant told us to go find a campsite that had a blue marker on the campground post. But he couldn’t tell us which ones were “blue.” So we wasted a lot of time driving around looking for an empty campsite. The roads are narrow, so watch out for people walking and kids riding bikes.

Eventually, we found a site in Loop G, a tent-only camping area. It turns out that there were only four blue marked tent sites left when we arrived. So really, it’s first come, first served as far as getting a good site. The best sites are the ones in the back of the loops, which look into a canyon and Annie Creek. The trade-off is that they’re further from the bathroom.

Our site, G11, was closer to the road and bathrooms. Given what was available, it was the best of the worst. There was trash in our campsite, the picnic table was broken (but still usable), and there were lots of mosquitoes. It seemed crowded, with neighboring campsites in close proximity, and people everywhere. We set up our tent, ready to make the best of it.

Surrounding Amenities

By the time we got set up, we were starving. It was too late to cook dinner, so we decided to check out Annie Creek Restaurant. We’ll leave a review in our restaurant post (spoiler alert: it wasn’t good). While we ate, the weather took a turn for the worse and it started storming. Hail that was 3-4 mm in diameter fell from the sky, which was cool to see, though we grew a bit concerned since we were camping. The hail piled up initially, but stopped – and melted – by the time we left the restaurant.

Back at our campsite, we got ready for bed. The sky glowed a beautiful reddish purple after the storm. The restrooms were near our site, and they had soap and paper towels, which is always a bonus. The other campers were relatively quiet, which we appreciated.

The following morning, we started hearing voices around 7 a.m. – which isn’t bad when you’re camping. We checked out the camp store, where we bought some food and firewood. They also carry ice, dehydrated meals, beer and wine, gifts, and other helpful items. Outside the shop is a gas pump. And thankfully, they also have an air compressor, which came in handy when our rental car developed a small leak in one of the tires.

There were only a few moments it didn’t rain that day. That evening, we built a roaring fire, roasted marshmallows, and generally had a warm and toasty evening. And we were glad, because the storms resumed shortly after. According to some Xanterra employees, rain in Crater Lake is unusual in July. We had planned to stay a third night in the campground, but with the thunder, we bailed and found a room at Diamond Lake Resort, north of the park.

So. Mazama Campground is a campground, and it’s an okay campground. We weren’t wowed. We didn’t like the site selection process, our broken picnic table, the mosquitoes, the crowds, or the overall vibe. It was nice to know we’d have a site waiting for us, though. And we were glad it was quiet and had some amenities.

If we visit again, we would stay in Lost Creek Campground – the other campground in the park – which we drove through after a hike to Plaikni Falls. It’s a smaller, NPS-run, first-come, first-served campground, so we’d also have to consider a backup outside the park. Sites have more sun exposure, are larger, and seem quieter and more peaceful. It doesn’t have as many amenities – but sometimes we prefer that.

Mazama Campground | 214 Campsites

Dates Visited: July 24 – 26, 2017
Location: 7 miles south of Rim Village (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Showers | Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Bear Boxes | Camp Store | Gas Station | Laundry | Amphitheater
Dates Open: Mid-June through Late September
Prices: $21/night for tent campsite | Between $31-$42/night for RV site | $5/night for walk-in campsite
Reservations: 75% of sites can be reserved in advance for July-September. Otherwise, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Annie Creek flows adjacent to the campground.
Best Sites: Campsites to the back of the loops next to Annie Creek. Loop G is tent-only. Other loops have a mix of tent and RV sites. Get there early to select your site.
Notes: Managed by Aramark. Check-in time is between 12:00 pm and 9:00 pm, check-out is 12:00 pm.

Places

• Mazama Campground | 42.8676392, -122.1676625
• Annie Creek Restaurant and Gift Shop | 569 Mazama Village, Crater Lake Hwy, White City, OR
• Mazama Village Store | 42.8675139, -122.1666105

Maps

• Mazama Campground Map

Links

• Mazama Campground (NPS)
• Mazama Campground Reservations

Interactive Map

The post Mazama Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We reserved our campsite the day it became available so we wouldn’t miss out. We went through the same process for our stay at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. Since then, the reservation process has changed, but can still be challenging to navigate.

After our dinner at SeaQuake Brewing in Crescent City, we arrived at Jed Smith campground. Our site, #18, had a bear box, picnic table, and fire ring. It is conveniently located across from one of the three restrooms in the campground. Each restroom has flush toilets, sinks, and showers. There was no soap, or even sanitizer – we definitely recommend bringing your own!

To continue the glamping experience, we also took hot showers. There were two shower stalls, each with a changing area. It cost $0.50 for two minutes (a steal), and $0.25 for each additional minute. The water took about 30 seconds to warm up, and was well worth it. The bathrooms were clean, and we were grateful for a hot shower.

The campground was quiet, which made for a peaceful night’s sleep. When we awoke the next morning, we could see our campsite a lot better. It was a mostly shaded spot with redwoods, though close to some neighbors. Behind us was a stunning view of the emerald green Smith River and sandy beach. Additionally, directly behind our site was River Beach Trail, which winds around the campground.

The northern part of Jed Smith campground has five “hike and bike-in” campsites. There are also 4 sparse cabins in the campground. They cost $100 per night, which seems steep. Still, part of me wishes we had stayed there, just for the experience.

After a quick oatmeal breakfast, we walked to Jedediah Smith Visitor Center, which is centrally located within the campground. It has a small gift shop, and behind it is an amphitheater that hosts ranger programs a few evenings a week. A day use area also allows river access to non-campers for $8 per car. According to the park website, day access is free to those who hike or bike in.

Next we headed to Hiouchi Visitor Center, where we met for a kayaking trip on Smith River. It’s an easy walk along the road, less than a quarter mile from the campground.

After our kayaking trip, we headed to the beach near our campsite to warm up. It was a sunny afternoon in the 70s, and a number of other visitors were enjoying the area too. A log staircase, with no handrail, led to the beach – so we had to be careful.

While we really enjoyed our campsite, we did see larger sites that were closer to the river and nearer to large redwood trees. Those campsites, 47-58, were on the lower level on a smaller loop. I might try to reserve one of those someday when we return. But you really can’t go wrong with any site in this peaceful and well-maintained campground. This was my favorite campground so far on our adventures, aside from the primitive Duck Harbor Campground in Acadia NP.

Jedediah Smith Campground | 86 Campsites | 7 Hike-in Campsites | 4 Cabins

Date Visited: July 20 – 22, 2017
Location: Jedediah Smith State Park, 10 miles east of Crescent City, CA (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Hot Showers | Cabins | Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Bear boxes | Visitor Center
Dates Open: Year-round
Prices: $35/night for campsite | $100/night for cabin (summer), $80/night (winter)
Highlights: Redwood trees, beach
Best Sites: We recommend any site, but sites 47-58 are closer to the beach with larger redwood trees.
Notes: Reservations are accepted up to six months in advance and no less than 48 hours; otherwise first-come, first served. Check-in time is 2pm, check-out is 12:00 pm. Most popular dates are mid-May through late September.

Places

• Jedediah Smith Campground | 1461 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Chevron (for supplies) | 2100 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531

Maps

• Jedediah Smith Campground Map

Links

• Jedediah Smith Campground Reservations

Interactive Map

The post Jedediah Smith Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Planning

There are plenty of places to backpack in Redwood National & State Parks. All backcountry camping must be done at designated campsites – except for Redwood Creek, located in southern Redwood National Park. Along the creek, camping on gravel bars is allowed. We only had time to do one backpacking trip in the park, and Redwood Creek was our choice.

There are two possible entry points to Redwood Creek – Redwood Creek trailhead and Tall Trees trailhead. Redwood Creek trailhead, which is near highway 101, has had several reported car break-ins. A ranger at Kuchel Visitor Center recommended starting from Tall Trees trailhead, since the parking lot is beyond a locked gate. We decided on Tall Trees for security and so we could include Tall Trees Grove, which has some of the largest redwood trees in the park.

We decided on a relatively easy-going route that was only 6.8 miles, and 971 feet of elevation gain. It included Tall Trees Grove, then hiking on the Redwood Creeks’ gravel bars. There are no trails along the creek, and we often found ourselves wading through the water. Water shoes are critical for the hike, and trekking poles are highly recommended. With the right equipment, this hike is a fun experience.

Backpacking permits in Redwood are free (honestly they *should* charge a nominal fee). Permits can be obtained up to 24 hours before your trip at Hiouchi or Kuchel Visitor Centers. They are limited and first-come-first-served. The park allows 50 visitors per night to camp along the gravel bars by Redwood Creek. When we picked up our permit, the rangers provided a code for the locked gate that allows only permitted hikers into Tall Trees Grove.

Updated: Starting in June 2020, backcountry permits are only being issued online, so our earlier experience is out of date. Permits can be requested up to 160 days in advance, but no later than 24 hours prior. If you want to park at Tall Trees Grove, which is what we did, then you must also have an additional Tall Trees Trail permit. This is also available online, and can be reserved 180 days in advance. You’ll need an all day permit for each day that you’re parked at the trailhead. There is a limit of 35 all-day permits, each day. The park recommends getting the Tall Trees permits first, before getting the backcountry permits. Once you have a Tall Trees permit, the gate access code will be sent 24 hours before your hiking date. All permits are free.

Day 1 – To the Trailhead

We took Bald Hills Road to Tall Trees trailhead – the same road we drove to Lyons Ranch a few days prior. After a few tries, we managed to unlock the gate, drove through, and hopped out again to lock the gate behind us. Beyond the gate is a six-mile winding gravel road.

Once we parked, we got our packs, and headed to Tall Trees Trail. There’s supposed to be an interpretive trail guide at the trailhead, but sadly none were available. We started on Tall Trees trail, which only goes for 100 feet before coming to a fork. Tall Trees trail continues on the right. The following day, we returned via Emerald Ridge Trail on the left.

Day 1 – Tall Trees Trail

Tall Trees Trail descends steadily among redwoods and other trees. Some of the redwood trees that had fallen on the trail had neat cutouts for us to travel through. We took our time, stopping occasionally to rest on a bench, and just enjoyed the scenery and peacefulness. Shortly before reaching Tall Trees Grove, there’s a pretty area with large redwood trees and benches.

After 1.4 miles, we reached Tall Trees Grove, and started exploring the upper part of Tall Trees Loop. Some trees are marked with a wooden post with a number etched into it. This matches up with the interpretive guide (if it’s available at the trailhead). Since we didn’t have the guide, we felt a bit lost, but we still appreciated the enormity of the trees.

The previous record holder of “world’s tallest tree” is in Tall Trees Grove. Howard Libby Tree, also called “Tall Tree,” held the title until 1994 when the top died back. It’s currently 368 feet tall and is the 34th tallest tree in the world. Since we didn’t have a trail brochure (a recurring theme) we didn’t know exactly which tree it was at the time, though we would find it on the lower part of Tall Trees Loop.

Day 1 – Redwood Creek

As we made our way through the grove, we passed a few other groups, and then saw our first glimpse of Redwood Creek through the trees. The trail led us onto a gravel bar for a better view. We took a break on the rocky beach. It was a gorgeous day – sunny with very blue sky.

A seasonal bridge crosses Redwood Creek from June-September. As we crossed it, we looked down through crystal clear, yet blue-green water, to the colorful rocks on the creek bed. We passed a trail on our left that leads to 44 camp (a backcountry campground), but we continued downstream on the gravel bars to make camp. Camping is allowed as long as your site is at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove.

It was about 3:30 p.m. and several groups had already set up camp nearby. They were well-spaced for privacy, and each stretch of beach has a good spot to camp. Fire rings are scattered around, generally near sandier areas. Fires are only allowed on Redwood Creek gravel bars. We reached our first stream crossing, and decided it was time to change into our water shoes. The water was cool, and the rocks were a bit slippery, but we made it across easily. The water was about a foot deep.

Immediately after crossing the stream, Kristin noticed something ahead of us. Small animals running from the shore toward the trees. She called out to me, and I grabbed my camera and managed to snap some photos. They were so small we initially thought they were squirrels. We don’t know exactly what they were – river otters or maybe minks? If anyone knows, please add a comment!

These were not the only animals we saw either. As we hiked, we saw tadpoles in a small, secluded part of the creek. Naturally, where there are tadpoles, there are frogs and toads. We started seeing a lot of them. They were small, about an inch wide, so they were probably juveniles. They blend in quite well so watch where you step!

As we went downstream, we crossed a few places (glad to have water shoes) until we found a sunny, sandy spot to set up camp. It was soon after the creek turned around a bend, so we had some privacy. The curve in the creek also allowed some sunlight in, which helped dry our damp clothing and shoes. We set up our tent and relaxed.

While we were relaxing, some other hikers came carrying a large cooler… we stared a bit. They continued past our campsite further downstream and we wondered how they would bear-proof the cooler. We had trouble ourselves finding a spot to hang our bear bag – there weren’t a lot of good branches along the creek bank. Eventually we found one, less than ideal, but the best we could do.

We loved camping on the beach. It was private, and we got to have dinner by the creek. There was easy access to a water source to filter. The park actually recommends filtering water from tributaries, rather than directly from Redwood Creek (see the Backcountry Guide). We weren’t aware of that when we were there, and we’re not sure why that is. We fell asleep to the sounds of the creek gurgling and frogs croaking.

Day 2 – Redwood Creek

The next morning we retrieved our bear bag, and enjoyed some oatmeal by the creek. There was lingering fog and it took a long time for the sun to burn it away. We packed our things, said goodbye, and headed back the way we came. The creek was colder than yesterday, and the sky threatened to rain – luckily it only amounted to a few brief showers.

When we reached the seasonal bridge back to Tall Trees Grove, we saw a group camping right outside the grove. Whoops. The park service provides info about campsite restrictions when you request a permit, but signs might help too. It was a bit awkward also, as we passed a group eating breakfast next to the trail.

Ducking back into the forest, we went through the lower portion of Tall Trees Loop. Like the upper portion, it boasts many large redwood trees. However, the lower portion has more of a prehistoric feel with its moss-covered maple trees and lush ferns.

Along much of the trail, we could see Redwood Creek to our right. Along this section is the Howard Libby Tree, once the world’s tallest tree (now the 34th tallest). In addition to the Libby Tree there is also Nugget, the world’s 3rd tallest tree and Paul Zahl, the world’s 17th tallest tree.

Soon we came to an intersection, and a sign that said “To Emerald Ridge Trail – Summer Use Only – Extensive Wading.” Yeah, that sounds about right. We turned onto the trail and were back on a rocky beach, similar to where we had camped. Our plan was to hike along (and in) the creek for 1.6 miles until we reached Emerald Ridge Trail.

This section of trail has more creek crossings. The first crossing was freezing cold as a inland shaded stream flowed into Redwood Creek. Around here, we passed the only group of people we’d see on this section of Redwood Creek. They were a group of 12 people from Australia and we chatted for a bit. They had 6 adults and 6 kids and had camped near the Emerald Ridge Trail. Since the water was deep in some places, some of them hiked out twice – once to carry gear, and once to carry their kids!

Continuing, we came upon longer crossings, with deeper water. Sometimes we had to walk in the creek for several hundred feet before getting to a bank. Other times it was like a maze. There were downed trees in the creek that we had to climb over. Reflections on the water prevented us from discerning its depth. It was a lot of fun!

At one point we couldn’t see any beach ahead of us, just water. We found what might be a path through bushes on land, but it became too dense. We went back in the water and went along the left side. Then it got too deep.  So, we doubled back and went on the right side, which worked for a while.  Then it got too deep, so we headed diagonally forward, back to the left side! 

We picked our way through slowly, and eventually made it to the next beach area. Even though we rolled our shorts up, they still got wet – giving us an idea of how deep the water was in some spots. We were in the water for maybe 15 minutes during this stretch. Trekking poles were necessary to help stabilize us and gauge water depth. Water shoes also helped us keep our balance.

Day 2 – Emerald Ridge Trail

Eventually we stopped and checked the map, and compared it to where our phone GPS placed us. That way we wouldn’t get lost and miss the left turn onto Emerald Ridge Trail. Judging by the map, we were almost there. Soon enough we spotted a tree with an orange marker, and headed toward it. As we got closer, we could read the word “TRAIL” on it. An adjacent sign told us this was Emerald Ridge Trail.

It had gotten quite warm and sunny – different from the foggy, drizzly morning. It was time to swap out our water shoes for hiking boots. Warm dry socks felt so good on our chilled feet. We clipped our soggy water shoes to our backpacks and continued.

Emerald Ridge Trail ascended through a tunnel of small trees and shrubs. The trail has some signs of erosion, due to its elevation gain, as it heads back to the parking lot. We came upon a recently downed tree that we climbed over. It’s a pleasant trail, but there’s not much else to note. We passed Dolason Prairie Trail and lamented that we wouldn’t have time to hike it.

We were getting a bit tired due to the incline, but we finally returned to the parking lot. Happy with our trip, we got in the car and headed out along the gravel road. When we got to the gate, there was a couple entering and they asked us if we had left the gate open. We had not, but apparently whoever entered the area before them neglected to lock the gate. Exiting could be a problem for parties who enter without the combination, so make sure you close and lock the gate!

This was our favorite hike in Redwood National & State Parks. It’s different than any hike we’d ever done. Hiking through a creek and seeing the large redwood trees was an experience. The animals we saw only added to the splendor of the trail. So yeah, we recommend this trip wholeheartedly. You won’t regret it (unless you get lost).

Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees Trail

Date Visited:July 19, 2017 – July 20, 2017
Type: Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 6.8 miles (10.9 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 973 feet (297 m)

• Day 1 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 2.6 miles (4.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 204 feet (62 m) gain, 916 feet (279 m) loss
  • Time: 3.5 hours hiking which includes occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A site along Redwood Creek
• Day 2 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 4.2 miles (6.7 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 769 feet (234 m) gain, 57 feet (17 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours hiking which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections. No markings along Redwood Creek.
Difficulty: Moderate, as long as you have the right equipment.
Crowds: About a half dozen groups along Redwood Creek; more near Tall Trees Grove.
Water: Redwood Creek, streams
Highlights: Large redwood trees, primeval forests, solitude, wildlife, streams, rocky beaches, wading through Redwood Creek
Note: There are many ways you can do this hike. The distances and elevations are just estimates based on what we did. Make sure you camp at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove. Water shoes and trekking poles are highly recommended for wading.
Directions to Tall Trees Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Tall Trees Trailhead, take Tall Trees Trail. After 100 feet, the trail splits. Stay right on Tall Trees Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – At the intersection with Tall Trees Loop, head right onto the upper portion of Tall Trees Trail.
• Mile 1.8 – Turn right onto the Redwood Creek Trail, that leads out of the forest. Once you get to the creek, you’ll see a seasonal bridge (in summer), across the creek. Cross the bridge and head right (downstream). Walk along the creek until you find a campsite.
• Mile 2.6 – This was around where we camped, but feel free to camp anywhere (at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove). Enjoy the river, and head back the same way in the morning.
• Mile 3.4 – Go back into Tall Trees Grove. This time, head right at the intersection with Tall Trees Trail – you’ll walk through the lower part of Tall Trees Loop. Near the end of this section is the Libby Tree.
• Mile 3.9 – Turn right at this intersection that heads toward Redwood Creek. A sign warns “To Emerald Ridge Trail – Summer Use Only – Extensive Wading.” Once at the creek, follow it upstream for 1.6 miles. There is no defined trail here, you’ll be wading from gravel bar to gravel bar.
• Mile 5.5 – Look for an orange marker on the left that says “TRAIL.” Turn left onto Emerald Ridge Trail, and leave the creek behind.
• Mile 5.9 – Continue straight, as you pass the intersection with Dolason Prairie Trail.
• Mile 6.8 – Intersection with Tall Trees Trail. Continue right for 100 feet and you’re back at the parking lot.

Places

• Hiouchi Visitor Center | 1600 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center | US Highway 101 at Orick, Calif.
• Tall Trees Trailhead | 41.2081242, -123.9953206
• Howard Libby Tree |41.20818, -124.013402
• Nugget Tree |41.20963, -124.01215
• Paul Zahl Tree | 41.20792, -124.01138
• Our Campsite on Redwood Creek | 41.219028, -124009484

Maps

• Redwood Creek & Tall Trees Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Backcountry Trip Planner (NPS)
• NPS Article on Tall Trees Grove
• Famous Redwoods – Tall Trees Grove Description
• Backcountry Permits (NPS)
• Backcountry Permit Requests (Redwood Parks Conservancy)
• Tall Trees Trail Permits (NPS)
• Tall Trees Trail Permits Requests (Redwood Parks Conservancy)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Reserving a campsite at any campground in Redwood can be a challenge. Back in 2017 when we reserved a site for Gold Bluffs, we were online the moment the sites became available. Since then, the process has changed slightly, but sites still need to be booked as soon as possible. A campsite will become available on the corresponding day six months in advance (for example, you can reserve a site for July 5 beginning on January 5). We had listed some preferred sites, and we were thrilled when we were able to reserve a site.

According to a sign in the park, the colorful cliffs along the beach preserve part of an ancient river, which eroded gold deposits that were carried to the ocean. Along the way, the gold mixed with sediment and formed the bluffs over time. In the 1850s, prospectors found a way to mine the gold, too. Hence, the area is known as Gold Bluffs.

Arriving at the Campground

After our first hike in Redwood National Park, Lyons Ranch, we drove to Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. The campground is located in Prairie Creek State Park. We turned onto the unpaved Davison Road and were immediately greeted by a dark, dusty scene. Redwood trees blocked much of the sunlight, and plants lining the road were covered with dirt. It was a bit like entering another world.

From the intersection of Redwood Highway and Davison Road, the drive is about 5.6 miles, according to Google Maps. At dusk, we could see an occasional ray of sun peeking through. This gave off an eerie vibe which we didn’t expect. It felt like a long trip, though it only took about 20 minutes.

We arrived at the campground after 5pm, so the registration kiosk had closed. Our campsite was reserved and labeled with our name. We set up our tent, then explored the campground. We planned to pick up our parking pass the next morning.

First, we went to the camp host to purchase a bundle of firewood (sold from 5-8 pm except on Wednesdays and Thursdays). The camp host site is near the restrooms, which lacked lights, but they had flush toilets and were fully enclosed! Also nearby are solar showers, which are free for campers. The hot water doesn’t last long (if at all), but it’s warmer than jumping in the ocean. It was finicky, but pushing the button in firmly finally got it going.

Finally, we checked out the campground’s biggest attraction: the adjacent beach. But the weather was miserable – cold, grey, and dreary. Likewise, the ocean was rough and chilly. We hoped a hot dinner (hot dogs, of course) would improve our mood. The wind made it tricky to start a fire, but we used our backpacking stove to light our firestarter. Aren’t we creative?

We kept our food in the bear box while preparing dinner because there were large birds throughout the campground. All went smoothly, until a crow swooped down and tried to fly off with hotdog buns I had mistakenly placed on top of the bear box for a moment. He managed to impale the buns in the front of the package, but it was too heavy and he dropped it. Thankfully, we were able to salvage a few buns.

It was cold, and we were worried about the birds dive-bombing our dinner, so we ate in the car. This wasn’t quite the “beach camping” experience we had in mind. At least our tent was cozy. When we awoke the next morning, the campground was still blustery and cold (in the 50s or so). To avoid the wind, we opted for a quick breakfast (you guessed it…in our car).

Warming Up

That morning, we left Gold Bluffs to hike the James Irvine & Miner’s Ridge Trails. On the way, we stopped by Elk Meadow Picnic Area, located at the end of Davison Road near highway 101. We had read that it’s (not surprisingly) a good place to spot Roosevelt elk, and we saw four of them! Apparently, elk frequent Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, but we didn’t see any there.

Later that day, we walked through Gold Bluffs Beach Campground while hiking the James Irvine & Miner’s Ridge Trail. The sun had come out, and the campground and beach had warmed up significantly. The ocean looked blue rather than the colorless abyss we’d left behind that morning. The black and white sand had gotten quite hot in places. We enjoyed the beach, but we couldn’t linger since we planned to hike 12 miles that day.

Our visit to Gold Bluffs Beach Campground was a reminder that we should stop and relax every once in awhile rather than trying to see everything. But the next morning, we awoke to an unfamiliar sight – the sun was coming out! We had to check out by noon, which gave us plenty of time to enjoy our last day at the campground.

As we packed up and ate breakfast, the sun slowly warmed up the world. The area was finally “gold” like its name suggests. It was warm and sunny with the beachy vibes we’d been hoping for. Our experience wasn’t exactly what we had in mind, but we learned a lot about flexibility and the climate of northern California.

Gold Bluffs Campground | 26 Campsites | 1 Hike-in Campsite

Date Visited: July 17 – 19, 2017
Location: Prairie Creek State Park (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Solar-powered Showers | Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Food Lockers
Dates Open: Year-round, though reservations are required May 15-Sept 28. First-come, first-served otherwise.
Prices: $35/night for campsite
Highlights: Beach, ocean, Fern Canyon, elk
Best Sites: We prefer those that are closer to the ocean on the outside of the loop (e.g. 7, 9, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19)
Notes: Reservations are accepted up to six months and no less than 48 hours in advance; otherwise first-come, first served. Check-in is 2pm, check-out is 12:00 pm. Most popular dates are mid-May to late-September.

Places

• Gold Bluffs Beach Campground | Davison Rd, Orick, CA 95555
• Elk Meadow Picnic Area | 41.3223801, -124.0427265
• Orick Market | 121175 US-101, Orick, CA 95555

Maps

• Gold Bluffs Beach Campground Map

Links

• Gold Bluffs Beach Campground Reservations
• Roosevelt Elk (NPS)

Interactive Map

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