We were excited for our first hike in Glacier National Park. Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Trail promised a forested boardwalk trail, a stunning gorge, and a glacial lake nestled at the foot of majestic mountains. We hoped it would give us a taste of what Glacier National Park is all about.

To get to Avalanche Lake Trail, you first have to hike Trail of the Cedars, a path through cedar, hemlock, and the cottonwood trees which is primarily on a boardwalk. Combining the two trails forms a 5.9 mile reverse lollipop loop. This sylvan path takes you to Avalanche Gorge, where Avalanche Creek flows through a twisted narrow canyon. Avalanche Lake, a picturesque body of water with towering mountains beyond, is located at the terminus (ish) of the trail. The lake was named in 1895 because a group exploring the area saw and heard many avalanches during their stay.

Hiking is a popular activity in Glacier National Park, so you have to get to the trailhead early to secure a parking spot. Trail of the Cedars is only about a 30 minute drive from Fish Creek Campground, where we were staying, so it seemed like a good bet. Thankfully, there were still spaces left when we arrived in the parking lot around 8:30 a.m. However, visitation has increased in recent years, so you have to arrive even earlier to ensure you get a spot (potentially as early as 6:30 a.m.). A timed-entry system has also been implemented, but the park remains crowded.

We took about 15 minutes to put on sunscreen and get our gear ready. By the time we got started, there were no visible parking spaces left. Coming from the west, there are three parking lots in order: Avalanche Lake Picnic Area (on left), Avalanche Campground (a small lot on the right), and Trail of the Cedars Parking (on the right after crossing Avalanche Creek). Some visitors only do Trail of the Cedars, which is rather short, so you can circle the lot until a space opens up. The park shuttle is another great option, and there is a transfer stop next to the trailhead.

Trail of the Cedars

We walked across Going to the Sun Road, then crossed Avalanche Creek. Trail of the Cedars is a loop – one side starts north of Avalanche Creek, the other to the south. We decided on a whim to start from the north and go clockwise, but either would work. Avalanche Lake Trail intersects Trail of the Cedars around the halfway point.

We started our hike on a boardwalk on Trail of the Cedars, and a good portion of the loop is a boardwalk. Travis loves boardwalks, so he was really in his element. It feels like you’re traveling through a swamp or bog, someplace you wouldn’t normally be able to walk without damaging the terrain or flora.

The trail is wheelchair accessible, easy terrain with a gentle slope up toward the intersection with Avalanche Lake Trail. Trail of the Cedars was one of the first accessible trails completed by the NPS. Originally, other parts of the trail were constructed using gravel and pavement, which deteriorated over time. In 2015, this portion of the trail was reconstructed using sustainable non-asphalt polymer surface.

As we made our way through the dense forest, there was a steady stream of people on the trail, but it still seemed quiet and peaceful. Some trees were marked with signs describing the species, which I always appreciate. Other signs sported an illustration and poem. It took us a few signs to realize that they were all haikus! Honestly, poetry and hiking trails go really well together.

In the quiet night
ambush on the forest floor
the predator dines

Haiku from a sign along Trail of the Cedars

After 0.4 miles, we reached the popular Avalanche Gorge, which Avalanche Creek traverses. The gorge is so beautiful it’s almost indescribable, and you can see why it’s so popular. The translucent bright blue water (which neither words nor photographs can accurately convey) cascades through a narrow canyon. When rocks grind together underneath a glacier, the resulting sediment powder gets suspended in the water. This sediment absorbs and scatters sunlight, creating the distinctive milky blue hue.

Avalanche Lake Trail

Almost immediately after crossing the gorge, we turned left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. The trail ascends slightly as it follows the gorge further upstream. The trail has a steady ascent of over 500 feet for 1.7 miles, and flattens out as you approach Avalanche Lake. More waterfalls appear as you ascend above the creek and past Avalanche Gorge. We took our time exploring and snapping photos before continuing past the gorge. Travis experimented with some long exposures, but he wasn’t happy with the results since he had forgotten his tripod.

The trail follows Avalanche Creek through the woods, then opens to views of the mountains. It’s our first glimpse that truly showcased the glacial valleys and peaks of Glacier National Park. The wooded trail is peaceful and beautiful, but we really felt like we were in Glacier when we saw the mountains.

Shortly before reaching the lake, we passed a short side trail on the right to two outhouses. Several of the longer trails in Glacier have outhouses along the way, which says a lot about the popularity of the park. In crowded parks like Glacier, they are essential for keeping the area clean.

Avalanche Lake

As we arrived at Avalanche Lake, we noticed lots of people milling around along the shoreline. There had been a guided hike earlier in the day, and a park ranger was there answering questions. Even with the crowd, everyone seemed to be respectful and took turns taking photos with the lake and mountain backdrop.

Nestled in a valley, Avalanche Lake has a beautiful light green hue. The logs scattered in the lake are a distinctive feature when compared to other lakes we visited. Unfortunately the sky was fairly hazy, and the lighting wasn’t the best, but we still enjoyed ourselves (how could we not?). Small rodents ran around (don’t feed them!), and we saw some interesting birds.

While most hikers stop once they reach Avalanche Lake, the trail continues to the far side of the lake. So of course, we had to explore a bit more. We were able to get relative solitude in the forested areas as we continued our hike around the lake. Occasional side trails provide beach access. The lake gets deeper toward the south side, and it takes on more of a turquoise color which I think is even more beautiful than the greenish hue in the shallow end.

As we continued on the trail, we heard something coming toward us. Another hiker? Bear? No! A deer was using the trail and coming right toward us. We stopped, and thought about backtracking to a side trail, but there wasn’t one nearby. As it approached us, the deer darted into the woods toward the lake, went around us, jumped back on the trail, and kept going. Problem solved.

At the end of the established trail is a sign, literally saying “End of Trail.” However there’s a clear social trail that continues beyond. We followed it to a beach on the south side of the lake. About a half dozen other people were also enjoying the less populated side of the lake. The view was just as impressive from this side, if not more so. Besides people, there were also a few deer poking around.

We sat down to a packed lunch at the sandy beach. Small streams flowed into the lake, and wildflowers dotted the landscape behind us. It was peaceful and quiet. Another visitor fished (Yellowstone cutthroat trout are native to the lake), and hikers passed by periodically. We spent a good while just relaxing and enjoying the scenery before retracing our steps along the shoreline and back down the trail.

Back to Trail of the Cedars

Above Avalanche Gorge, a sign warns visitors to stay on the trail, as drowning is the top cause of death in the park. We’ve heard of numerous drowning accidents over the years. Two deaths occurred during our trip – and drowning was the cause of one. The rivers and creeks are fast flowing, and can be very cold. So for your own safety, always stay on the trail, and avoid hiking solo if possible.

Travis’s leg was bothering him, so we stopped to rest for a bit, and then slowed down our pace. We made it back to the intersection with Trail of the Cedars. On the way, we took another look at Avalanche Gorge – and found that the harsh afternoon lighting made the area appear washed out. If you want to see Avalanche Gorge, I recommend visiting in the morning for more vibrant hues. However, the lake and mountains were more well-lit in the afternoon light, so hiking up in the morning and back in the afternoon is a good bet.

We then continued clockwise on Trail of the Cedars. Again it was a short and peaceful hike through the woods, but there are fewer boardwalks in this section. We passed a restroom and the Avalanche Campground Amphitheater before returning to our car.

Overall, we both really enjoyed this hike. Travis loved the boardwalk and Avalanche Gorge, and my favorite part was exploring (and just relaxing by) Avalanche Lake. It took us six and a half hours at a super leisurely pace. For a “normal” leisurely pace, we could probably hike it in four and half hours or so. It made for a great first hike in Glacier National Park!

Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop

Date: Sunday, July 21, 2019
Type: Dayhike Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 5.9 miles (9.5 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 735 feet (224 m)
Time: 6.5 hours
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: High
Water: Creeks and lakes
Highlights: Views, wildlife, gorge, water features, boardwalk
Directions to Trailhead: Trail of the Cedars Trailhead
Notes: You can go either way on the Trail of the Cedars Loop

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Trail of the Cedars Trailhead, on the northern side of Avalanche Creek, head clockwise on the trail. It will lead to a boardwalk through cedar, hemlock, and cottonwood forest.
• 0.4 mi – Cross Avalanche Creek. Avalanche Gorge is on your left. About 100 feet further down the trail, turn left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. After another 100 feet, turn left to stay on Avalanche Lake Trail at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail. This section will then ascend over 500 feet to the lake.
• 2.3 mi – You’ve arrived at the northern end (the foot) of Avalanche Lake, where water flows out. Stop to enjoy the beach as well as the lake and mountain views. Two outhouses are located nearby.
• 2.9 mi – The official trail ends, and a social trail continues. A few minutes’ walk takes you to the southern end of the lake (the head), where water flows into the lake. Another small beach is located here as well. Turn around when you want to head back.
• 5.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail to continue on Avalanche Lake Trail. Go 100 feet, then turn left onto Trail of the Cedars. This is the second half of the loop. You’ll pass a restroom and amphitheater along the way.
• 5.9 mi – Back at the trailhead

Maps

• Trail of Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Lake McDonald Valley Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Avalanche Lake Trail (NPS)
• Trail of the Cedars (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Glacier National Park was on our bucket list, and we were both super excited to visit. Due to the popularity of the park, we had to plan a full year in advance. It can be difficult to secure campgrounds, hotels, and backcountry permits, so planning ahead is essential.

Our trip would begin on the west side of the park, and gradually head east over our three-week trip. We planned to spend our first two nights at Fish Creek Campground in Glacier’s Lake McDonald district.

Fish Creek is a large campground with 178 sites, which makes reserving a site a bit easier compared to other campgrounds in the park (like the popular and centrally located Many Glacier Campground). Most sites are released over a six-month rolling basis, except for a few sites, which have a 4-day window. The day we booked, we managed to get the site we wanted (C110) near Lake McDonald.

The campground has four loops – A, B, C, and D. Each loop is a bit different. We chose C loop for its access to Lake McDonald, fairly private sites, and because generators are prohibited. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites seemed less private, particularly on the inner loop. Loops A and B are farther from the lake and have less tree cover. Loop A has the only showers in the entire campground, though you could easily drive over to them. Loop B has more RV spots than other loops, so we avoided that.

Important Note: Grizzly and black bears frequent the area. Bear boxes are available near the restrooms; otherwise keep all food and scented items in your car for your safety and that of wildlife. Park rangers do patrol the area and issue fines for noncompliance.

Arriving at Fish Creek Campground

We flew into Kalispell, then picked up our rental car and supplies before heading into the park. Speaking of which, don’t forget to buy or rent bear spray – we bought ours from a nearby REI. From Kalispell it was around a one hour drive to the campground. On the way, we stopped at the Apgar Backcountry Office to confirm some of our upcoming backpacking permits.

Afterwards, we drove the short distance to Fish Creek Campground and checked in. Our site, C110, is a pull through to a cozy setup with a picnic table and fire ring. A water pump is located close by, and a short path leads to Lake McDonald. Our campsite had plenty of tree cover and it was nice and quiet – we liked it already!

Once we set up our tent, we walked over to Lake McDonald. There were plenty of multicolored rocks on the lakebed, visible through the clear pure water. Nearby, some kids were playing in the lake, but it still seemed so calm and peaceful. It’s the kind of place you could read a book, or simply relax and enjoy the view.

It was dinner time, and we had decided not to cook at our campsite (we were lazy). We drove 6 minutes into the nearby park town of Apgar, and got dinner at Eddie’s Cafe & Mercantile. It was the worst restaurant experience we’ve had in any national park. Our food took forever to arrive, the orders were wrong, and the food just wasn’t good. The attached ice cream shop was decent though, and they had some vegan sorbet options for Kristin. Since we visited, Eddie’s has changed concessionaires and undergone a significant renovation in 2022. It’s larger, and looks more like a traditional lodge. So take our experience with a grain of salt.

After dinner, we walked over to Lake McDonald and enjoyed the view and ambiance. With the gentle waves lapping the lakeshore, and stunning multicolored rocks in Lake McDonald, it was a beautiful spot to relax and eat our ice cream. The area looked even more beautiful in the early evening light. It was so simple, and yet a memorable first night.

The campground was relatively quiet when we returned later that evening, which we appreciated. The air had gotten cooler, but it wasn’t yet “cold.” Even though it was only 9:30 p.m. and still light out, we passed out in our tent. We awoke overnight to the sound of bugling. Probably an elk near the lake, but we didn’t get up to check.

The next day we got up early to hike the nearby Avalanche Lake Trail. Afterward, we drove into Columbia Falls for dinner before returning to camp – again, not worrying about cooking at the campsite. Then we went by the lake and relaxed, took photos, and just enjoyed the campground. We dipped our feet into the lake, which was freezing cold. There’s also an amphitheater at Loop A where the park service holds ranger talks. We had wanted to attend one, but didn’t find the time. But we did stop by for a quick visit, and also check out the only showers in the campground.

Two nights was a short stay at Fish Creek. It’s a great campground, we recommend it and wished we had stayed longer – but we had more places to see in Glacier. Next we’d be heading east, over Logan Pass, all the way to Many Glacier.

Fish Creek Campground | 178 Campsites

Dates Visited: Saturday July 20, 2019 – Monday July 22, 2019
Location: 12 miles from the park’s West Glacier entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling
Dates Open: Mid-May to early September
Prices: $30/night for individual tent campsite
Reservations: 100% of sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. Otherwise, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Access to Lake McDonald, Tree Cover
Best Sites: Loop C due to privacy and Lake McDonald access. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites are not as private. Loops A and B are further from the lake and have less tree cover.
Notes: There are four tent only sites: C120, C121, C122, and D166. Two sites are not suitable for tents: C139 and C143. Generators are prohibited in Loop C. Four sites are hiker/biker only: A11a, A11b, A11c, and A11d.

Places

• Fish Creek Campground | Fish Creek Campground Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936
• Eddie’s Mercantile and Cafe | Apgar Village, 236 Apgar Lp Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936

Maps

• Fish Creek Campground Map (Wikipedia, may be outdated)

Links

• Glacier Campgrounds (NPS)
• Fish Creek Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)

Interactive Map

The post Fish Creek Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

In 2018, we enjoyed exploring the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park. But we wished we had been able to visit other areas of the park too. So, the following year, that’s what we did. After researching, we decided on a four day, three night backpacking trip through Salt Creek Canyon in the Needles District.

Salt Creek Trail has a lot of draws and is located in one of the more remote areas of the Needles District. There are reliable water sources, archeological ruins, history, arches, solitude, and more. The area can be hiked via multiple routes, and we decided to do a one-way shuttle hike. Overall, the route we chose was easy to moderate. We planned low mileage days so we could take our time and explore.

Our trip turned out amazing – we loved the history, scenery, and vibe of the area. It was exactly what we were looking for. Unfortunately, we ran into a couple issues along the way (primarily due to our own mistakes). But when backpacking, you have to be prepared for anything. So we rolled with them as best we could, and this post goes into detail, so hopefully it helps someone else. Get ready, this is a long one.

Planning – Route and Campsites

We started our route at the southern border of Canyonlands, at Cathedral Butte in Bears Ears National Monument. There are two options for hiking out – Cave Spring or the Needles Campground. Exiting at Cave Spring makes for a shorter route, but the final 3.5 miles is along a sandy wash. Hiking out at the Needles Campground would mean an additional 1.3 miles, but it affords more views along the slickrock. We decided to finish our trip at Cave Spring, making the total distance 28.2 miles.

Along the route are four designated campsites: SC1, SC2, SC3, and SC4. There’s no dispersed camping until reaching the Salt/Horse Zone (after 14.1 miles). So, for us, it was critical that we got the campsites that we wanted. We wanted SC1 -> SC3 -> Salt/Horse Zone permits. SC2 was our backup to SC1, while SC4 was our backup to SC3. SC1 and SC2 are adjacent, and we had read that SC1 was more private. SC3 was preferable to SC4 because there’s a lot to see between SC1/SC2 and SC3, and we wanted time to explore.

The trail begins at 7,074′ of elevation, and ends at 4,931′. The trail descends initially, and is fairly level for the rest of the trip. The longest day for us would be the last one (day 4), while the other days were fairly low mileage. We decided to hike it south to north, so we would descend, rather than ascend, about 2,000 feet of elevation. About half way along Salt Creek Trail is a side trail to Angel Arch, the largest sandstone arch within Canyonlands NP. So we tacked on an additional 3.2 miles round-trip to see it.

Planning – Permits and Regulations

We were able to reserve the sites online, but the reservation system has changed since then. Starting in 2020, Canyonlands uses recreation.gov, and future blocks of campsites are available on four specific dates throughout the year. For example, on November 10, 2020, the permits for March 10 through June 9, 2021 became available. This makes it easier to grab the sites for your entire trip. (To reserve our campsites, I had to wait until 2am EST, for 3 nights straight, when the permits became available.)

With our permits secured, our next step was booking a shuttle, since this was a one-way hike. We contacted Coyote Shuttle, headquartered in Moab. We reserved our shuttle well in advance, for $300 (the cost now is around $375). Expensive, but worth it, and they were responsive and professional.

Next, it was time to research specific points of interest. We bought books and scoured the internet. Along the trail are numerous ruins, cliff dwellings, pictographs, and artifacts that were created thousands of years ago by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan (also called Anasazi) Native Americans. People lived in the region for roughly 2,000 years, starting as hunter-gatherers, and eventually farming. By 1200 AD, large groups of people lived in what is now Canyonlands, and the society reached its peak. Around 1300 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans left the area and migrated south toward Arizona and New Mexico, possibly due to drought.

Big Ruins, the largest archaeological site in Canyonlands, evokes a sense of grandeur. There are at least 20 structures high on a ledge. The Ancestral Puebloans also lived in what is now Mesa Verde National Park, so they have similarities. There are also smaller features within Salt Creek Canyon that are just as worthwhile. Directions to these landmarks are not always public knowledge, but you can find information about them online or in books with enough time and effort. To protect them, we won’t provide the specific locations of these special places.

A couple important details that are specific to the area: First, there is a small population of black bears in Salt Creek Canyon. In late summer, the bears migrate down from the nearby Abajo Mountains, so bear canisters are required along Salt Creek Canyon from March 15 to November 30 (and highly recommended at other times). This was the first time we needed a canister, and we bought a BearVault BV500, which sufficed for four days with two people. Another important thing to know is that all human waste must be packed out when camping at designated campsites (which includes SC 1-4). When we visited, only toilet paper needed to be packed out, but this changed in 2020.

Day 0 – To Moab

It’s also vital to know that Beef Basin Road, which leads to our trailhead at Cathedral Butte, is a rough dirt road. We expected the weather to be sunny and dry like our first trip to the area. But it rained heavily just before our trip, and it turns out that the road gets muddy and can become impassable after a downpour…so we weren’t sure what Beef Basin Road had in store for us. Other than that, the weather looked nice for our trip in late March – mid 60s to low 70s during the day, and 40s at night.

When we arrived in Moab, we checked into Inca Inn before heading to Coyote Shuttle to pay for the trip. While there, we were told that there was the possibility of snow/ice on the trail. We decided to stop by a local shop and grab some cheap crampons. Fortunately, we didn’t end up needing them, but I’m glad we had them just in case.

Day 1 – To Cathedral Butte

The next day, we woke up early and drove to Canyonlands National Park, Needles District. On the way we stopped at a few places with scenic views or attractions like Newspaper Rock. Once we arrived at the Needles Visitor Center, we got our backcountry camping permits. Since we had reserved an at-large area (Salt/Horse), we were required to pick up our permits from the Visitor Center (so a ranger could give us brief instructions before the trip).

At the visitor center, we also changed our permit to exit at the Needles Campground rather than Cave Spring. We decided we preferred to hike on slickrock instead of the sandy path to Cave Spring. But, we ended up exiting at Cave Spring anyway… we’ll get to that later.

Around 9:45 a.m., we met our shuttle driver, Farland, at the visitor center. We followed her in our car to the Needles Campground, where we parked. Then, we hopped in the jeep for our bumpy ride. Farland was very friendly and engaging. She told us about her past career as a teacher (Kristin is also a teacher), as well as her experiences in the Moab area.

Beef Basin Road goes through Bears Ears National Monument, where Cathedral Butte is located. Initially, the ride wasn’t too bad. We zipped across the dirt road with towering redrock monoliths beside us, and through a large pool of water. The further we went, the worse shape the road was in, until it got pretty muddy. Farland and the jeep were able to handle it all, and we got to the Cathedral Butte trailhead without any issues. She dropped us off at 11:30 a.m., and we thanked her profusely.

The trailhead was at the top of a cliff surrounded by pinyon and juniper. Looking out over Salt Creek Canyon – at 7,074 feet of elevation – gave us a scenic view of where we were heading. It’s intimidating to suddenly be dropped in the middle of nowhere with no transportation, aside from walking. There was some lingering snow around the parking area, as well as one other very muddy truck with chains on its tires.

Day 1 – Cathedral Butte to SC1

Before starting our hike, we checked out the trailhead sign. We signed the register, and found an NPS map describing a challenging marshy section about 2.5 miles into the trail. We snapped a photo of it, just in case. Around noon, we started our descent into Salt Creek. After 4.3 miles, we would reach our campsite.

Over the next 1.5 miles, we descended almost 1000 feet. It wasn’t hard, but the trail was steep and eroded in places. We were glad we were going down and not up! The weather was cool, but we quickly peeled off layers as we moved. There was a bit of scattered snow, but none on the trail. As we got lower, we started seeing cryptobiotic soil – which we made sure to avoid. The views were incredible, and we enjoyed looking back at Cathedral Butte, to see where we had come from.

Eventually, the route descended into a flat area with sagebrush, and then the sandy “bottom” of Upper Salt Creek Canyon. From there, we left Bears Ears National Monument and entered Canyonlands National Park. The vegetation around us started to change again until we were surrounded by tamarisk, rabbitbrush, willows, and other brush and grasses. We went through this section until we came to the marsh mentioned on the map at the trailhead, full of tall scouring reeds.

Initially, the path was easy to follow through the towering reeds. We crossed small streams that flowed through. While the park does have pink ribbons tied around reeds as markers to follow, they were difficult to find. The further in we went, the harder it was to navigate. We had read that hikers should bear right along the path toward the east side of the marsh, and we were able to figure our way through. But I can see the benefit of having the map (from the trailhead) just in case.

We brought binoculars so we could see some of the ruins and cliff dwellings that were further away. The marshy section was where (we think) we got our first glimpse of some granaries high up on a cliff along the east side of the trail.

Eventually, the trail follows a sandstone cliff to the east (our right). The trail is very clear here, and runs right past the first pictograph panel we saw. The panel has four handprints, as well as a small humanoid figure. We couldn’t help stretching out our hands and comparing them to the ones on the wall (without touching them). We wondered who created them and why. How long ago? Interesting thoughts and theories flooded our minds as we speculated.

Shortly after the pictograph is the first reliable water source – Kirk Spring. Water cascades down a sandstone slope and lands in a large pond. It’s very picturesque, but we didn’t linger too long. It’s close enough to our campsite that we would come back to filter later. 150 yards beyond the water source, we encountered the next historical treasure: Kirk’s Cabin.

A small hewn log cabin sits just next to the trail. Built in the 1890s by Renssalaer Lee Kirk, the cabin has stood for over 125 years. Kirk ranched there until 1905, when he abandoned the area because he couldn’t make a living. Scattered around the cabin are remnants of the ranching days: a corral, fences, even an old wagon. The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.

The cabin is open to visitors, so we went in and explored. Small trinkets (and unfortunately, trash left by other hikers) were strewn about. While the cabin is in decent shape considering its age, I imagine it’s seen better days. It’s hard to imagine living here; I’m sure it was a lonely experience.

Just past Kirk’s Cabin is a small trail to the right that leads to two campsites: SC1 and SC2. We were staying at SC1, so we headed back on the spur, where it split to each individual campsite. We assumed SC2 was booked, but we didn’t see anyone else. Our campsite was large, quiet, and private. We set up our camp, ate dinner, and headed to bed.

Day 2 – SC1 to Big Pocket

The next morning we woke up refreshed and excited for the day. There are so many things to see on the next stretch of trail: the All American Man, Four Faces, Squash Patch, Big Ruins, Ring Arch, and numerous other points of interest. We only planned to hike five miles, so we could focus on exploring. But first, we needed to filter some water…which became more of an issue than we anticipated.

On the way out of the campsite, we spotted Kirk Arch across the canyon. It’s difficult to see because there is another rock face behind the opening. We had missed it the day before, but once you know where it is, you can’t miss it. We headed left on Salt Creek Trail, passed Kirk’s Cabin, and backtracked to the pond.

Our water filter of choice is a Sawyer Squeeze. While we’ve used other systems in the past, we’ve found it to have the best balance of utility, weight, and ease of use. We filled up our water pouches at Kirk Spring, attached them to the filter, and squeezed – water should come out the other side into our bottles. But nothing came out. Not worried yet, we backwashed the filter. It still didn’t work. Insert expletive here.

Before our trip, we had picked up supplies at the REI in Grand Junction, Colorado. On a whim we also bought some water purification tablets. We’d never carried or used them before, but we were glad we had them. Without the tablets, we would have needed to boil water, taking away our precious fuel. And we hadn’t even seen another hiker at this point, so borrowing wasn’t an option.

We brought a limited number of tablets, so we had to conserve them as much as possible. Part of that meant allowing the water to warm to “room temperature” before we added the tablets, and calculating how much water to put into each container (we used hydration bladders, which made it easier). And, two new takeaways from the trip: first, test our water filter before leaving, and second, bring purification tablets as a backup.

After figuring out the water situation, we headed north past Kirk’s Cabin, then past the wooden fence built by Kirk himself. The fences are fairly intricate, even though barbed wire was available at the time. About a third of a mile later, we came to our first easily accessible ruins – two small granaries tucked in an alcove – not far from the trail. It’s special to be able to get up close (but not too close) to the ruins. Back on the main trail, we spotted another unnamed arch across the canyon to the west. It’s scenic, yet inaccessible. Sometimes this is also referred to as Kirk Arch.

As we continued on the trail, we spotted signs of wildlife. On the path was hairy scat, most likely from coyotes which frequent the area. Also on this stretch, we saw the most peculiar insects – red and yellow colored hairy ants. They lived in holes on the trail. We later learned that they’re called velvet ants, but are actually a type of wasp! They can sting, but thankfully aren’t aggressive.

Soon after, we came upon the Big Pocket area to our right (east) where we spotted a Great Basin gopher snake in the brush. They aren’t poisonous, but we didn’t know that at the time, so we stayed well away. We knew there were additional ruins in the Big Pocket Area, but we continued on the main trail since there was so much to explore.

Day 2 – Big Ruins, Wedding Ring Arch, Squash Granary

Looking west, we saw Big Ruins about 0.4 miles from the trail. If you know where to look, the ruins are easy to find. Located on a cliff, it’s the largest collection of Ancestral Puebloan Ruins in Canyonlands. This site was one reason I wanted to hike Salt Creek. Most ruins are tucked into a ledge about 70 feet off the ground. To get closer to the ruins, we found a social spur trail immediately after a large diamond shaped rock. As we approached, the ruins slowly came into focus. Black soot covered the ceiling of the ledges, remnants of fires from over 700 years ago.

At our feet were numerous pottery pieces, so many that we had to make sure we didn’t step on any. Previous visitors had placed most of them on rocks to help protect them. The pieces have various patterns and colors, and we promptly tried to find our favorite designs. As always, leave no trace and do not remove any artifacts from the site.

Metate and mano – tools that were used to grind corn – are also in this area. So logically, there were dried corncobs there too. Could these be over 700 years old? At the bottom of the sandstone cliffs are granary ruins, where corn was likely stored so long ago. On the higher ledge with the structures, we spotted more handprints. There’s no way to get to the ledge, so they’re protected. The Ancestral Puebloans likely used ladders, which have long since disappeared, to access the structures. Big Ruins are awe-inspiring and they lived up to my expectations.

After exploring for as long as we could, we returned to the main trail. Far in the distance we saw a peculiar shape – Fisheye Arch. Another nearby arch (which isn’t as visible), is also sometimes referred to as Fisheye Arch. Shortly after, we went about 600 feet off the main trail to check out Wedding Ring Arch.

As we were heading to Wedding Ring Arch, we met the first person we’d seen since starting the trail. We were surprised to learn that he was a day hiker, but we weren’t sure where he started from. He had been looking for the All American Man pictograph. While we didn’t know exactly where it was, we knew it was to the north, so we mentioned that. But he was running out of time, and headed south. If he couldn’t find the pictograph, we started to worry that we wouldn’t be able to either.

Wedding Ring Arch is almost a perfect circle, if you look from the right angle. It’s large, about 200 feet high and 150 feet wide. Like Fisheye Arch, another Wedding Ring Arch is located before Kirk’s Cabin on some maps. But this one looks more like a ring than that one. Once we got some photos, we headed back to the main trail. The path goes through some wide open sagebrush areas, through reeds, and then back into sagebrush. Well worn hiker-made trails weave their way from Salt Creek Trail to our next destination – the Squash Plant Ruins.

Three granary ruins sit below an alcove. There are many granaries in Salt Creek, but what makes these unique is the squash plants growing in front of them. They likely grew from seeds originally planted by the Puebloans over 700 years ago! As far as we know, this is the only area in Salt Creek that has squash plants.

We were lucky to spot an old squash from the previous year, now hollow. How cool is that? Seeing it helped us imagine what it would have been like to live there long ago. More handprints above the granaries round out this special area.

Day 2 – All American Man, Four Faces, SC3

There was still more to see in this section of Salt Creek. Next were two of the most iconic pictographs: the All American Man and Four Faces. But first, we spotted a few ruins high up in a crack on a sandstone cliff. It’s mind-blowing to ponder how they might have been built. Shortly after, we came to the well-known All American Man basically right next to the trail. It’s located in a crevice in the wall, about 10 to 15 feet above the ground, with some ruins behind it. Below we found a canister with a hiker log, which we signed.

The All American Man is aptly named – a six-foot tall round figure, decked out in red, white, and blue, along with a narrow head and strange antennae. There is even what appears to be an American flag (but of course, it isn’t) near the figure’s “waist.” It’s vivid and spectacular. The blue color is actually gray, but it appears blue in the dim light and among the surrounding red sandstone. At some point, a visitor outlined the pictograph with white chalk – a practice that has damaged many petroglyphs and pictographs. Please treat all ruins with respect, and follow leave no trace.

The trail briefly veers to the west after the All American Man and goes through a crack in the sandstone. While it was probably unnecessary for the trail to go this way, it does make for an interesting scramble. Afterward, we made our way through dense reeds and other thick vegetation. About 30 minutes past the All American Man, we arrived at some ruins and the next pictograph – the Four Faces.

Most of the ruins in Canyonlands are from the Ancestral Puebloan culture, but Four Faces was created by the Fremont people. The two groups are distinct, and they overlapped in the area. The Four Faces is well preserved, considering it’s over 700 years old. The red colors are vivid, and it looks like it could have been painted yesterday. There are other “face” pictographs in Canyonlands, but most are in poorer condition. One of the nearby ruins was likely a kiln or hearth, as it’s blackened with soot inside.

Four Faces Spring, which would be our next water source, is located near the pictograph. The spring is also only a short walk from SC3 campsite. There, we met the second person that we’d seen so far. He was doing a through hike on The Hayduke Trail, which goes from Arches National Park through much of Southern Utah, then into Northern Arizona before ending in Zion National Park. An alternate route goes through Salt Creek. As we talked, we started feeling a bit uncomfortable with some things he was discussing. Then, he asked to stay in our campsite, and we realized that he likely did not have any permits. We’re usually pretty flexible, but due to some odd vibes we declined.

Continuing, we crossed Salt Creek and walked another 0.2 miles to reach SC3, our campsite for the night. The site is nice and big, and more open than SC1. Once we set up camp, I headed back to Four Faces Spring to get some water.

I peered into the pond and was surprised to see some large salamanders. These were Tiger Salamanders, the only species of salamander in the park. As I was taking this in, a small bat flew over the surface of the pond looking for insects. There’s so much wildlife here! I only had my cell phone on me on, so the pictures aren’t great. I headed back to camp for dinner. I tried out a GOOD TO-GO Bibimbap meal – it was not very good, which was disappointing since we’ve liked the brand’s other meals.

Day 3 – SC3 to Angel Arch Camp

We started early on day 3. Our plan was to hike 5.3 miles to a dispersed campsite, then head down a side trail to check out Angel Arch. The hike started out in sagebrush and led us to some geometric rock art, before reaching Upper Jump. This is a small waterfall, and would be a good place to get water if we had needed it. The creek bed then drops about 25 feet, and the trail gets greener, wetter, and narrower. We soon found ourselves surrounded by rabbitbrush, willows, and other vegetation. It was a welcome change.

For the next 2.3 miles or so after Upper Jump, we saw lots of trees and crossed numerous streams. The National Park Service has constructed simple wooden bridges across most of the streams. Cottonwood leaves crunched under our feet. Eventually, the trail rose above Salt Creek Canyon. We spotted rock art known as the Paper Dolls, since it looks like a string of figures holding hands. Shortly after, the trail took us back down into the canyon.

We neared the SC4 campsite and decided to check it out and take a short break. It’s a nice large site, with plenty of shade, privacy, and logs to sit on (always important!). Past SC4, the trail becomes harder to navigate, but it follows Salt Creek (more or less) as it winds its way north. About an hour and a half after SC4, we arrived at the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Angel Arch would have to wait, as we wanted to set up camp first.

After this intersection, the trail crosses into the Salt/Horse backpacking zone. This area allows for dispersed camping (best practice is to select a previously established site). We continued north on Salt Creek Trail, and in 0.2 miles we reached the area where we would camp. Formerly known as Angel Arch Camp, it’s an open area that features large cottonwood trees…or at least it did until a wildfire in 2016. According to some forums, the fire may have been caused by humans, but I never found a reliable source. It’s still a nice area to camp, but I imagine it used to be even better with the shade and privacy of the trees. As a reminder, campfires are not permitted in the backcountry.

– A brief historical interlude –

Incredibly, Salt Creek Trail north of the Angel Arch intersection, as well as the trail to Angel Arch, used to be open to motor vehicles. In 1998, the trail was closed by the NPS to protect the habitat and archaeological resources. After years of litigation, the trail has remained closed. It’s almost unthinkable for vehicles to drive through a riparian area which is so important to the delicate ecosystem.

While I’m glad 4WD vehicles are no longer in this part of Salt Creek, we found signs of past use, like scratches on rocks and abnormally wide trails. That said, the area has recovered quite well. Wildlife, like black bears, has started to repopulate the area (mainly in a late-summer migration from the Abajo Mountains). Some vehicle tracks have been overgrown with vegetation. Salt Creek itself has began to run clear, and riparian vegetation has increased.

Day 3 – Angel Arch Trail

After setting up our campsite, we headed back south to the Angel Arch Trail intersection. The trail goes 1.6 miles before reaching the arch. Initially, it was easy to follow, and we found some ruins and pictographs on a nearby cliff. The further we went, the wetter and more difficult to navigate it became.

Curiously, some maps have this trail incorrectly labeled as “Abbey’s Triple Arch Trail,” assumedly dedicated to Edward Abbey. Abbey’s Triple Arch is actually located in The Maze district.

Eventually we spotted Angel Arch. Morning lighting would have been better, since the sun is behind the arch in the afternoon, but this was the only time we’d have to see the arch. Cairns guided us up slickrock, to a rock formation known as “the molar.” It supposedly resembles a tooth, though it looked more like a heart to us.

Behind the molar stands Angel Arch. Its size, unique shape, and remoteness make it impressive. Originally, the formation was named Pegasus Arch until 1963, when it was officially named Angel Arch. There is supposedly a cairned 1.5 mile (round trip) trail that leads to the base of the arch, but we didn’t have the time or energy to do it. Thankfully the sky was a bit cloudy, which helped us get some decent photos.

We had brought our cooking gear with us, so we made dinner and ate while enjoying a view of the arch. It’s a great memory – just the two of us, relaxing and enjoying the beautiful scenery. Next, we headed back the way we came until we reached our campsite. We fell asleep to the gentle, and thankfully brief, rain that fell on our tent.

Day 4 – Angel Arch Camp to Peekaboo

The next morning we woke up to slightly damp ground. It felt cold and dreary initially, but the weather warmed up as the day went on. For the most part, the trail followed Salt Creek, which had places where we could have filtered water if we needed it. The trail opened up into wide, flat sandstone, which was beautiful and fun to hike. The Salt/Horse Zone allows for dispersed camping, and we stumbled upon a few established campsites (see Google Map below). About 1.1 miles beyond Angel Arch Camp, the trail passes right by Crescent Arch, high in the sandstone.

This was also the section where we started running into more people, since it’s possible to day hike here from the Needles Campground. First, we ran into some backpackers who were heading south. As we talked, we learned they were from the DC area too. They had a wide range of campsite permits that had taken them from Lost Canyon into Salt Creek. They mentioned that Peekaboo Trail was particularly scary. We didn’t think anything of the warning at the time, but knew we would be on that trail shortly.

One of the last major pictographs along the trail, the Flying Carpet Panel, is shortly before Peekaboo Arch. We managed to find a spur trail that led to the panel. Unlike earlier pictographs such as the All American Man or Four Faces, this panel is Barrier Canyon style. Another example of this style is The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon. The Flying Carpet Panel features several figures of varying sizes, and neat red handprints. It’s an impressive collection of pictographs.

After hiking about 6.5 miles from Angel Arch Camp, we reached Peekaboo Arch. It’s very unique and looks almost like it was punched out of a fin. The trail goes right through the arch. Formerly, it looped around the entire fin, but that’s no longer the “official” trail. Which is nice, since going through saves about half a mile.

We hiked up the slickrock and passed through the arch. We turned immediately left to admire a well known pictograph next to the opening of the arch. It was created by the Fremont Native Americans. If you look closely, you can see that it was painted over faint red artwork that is even older. Handprints are also nearby. There were a few people here, which was unsurprising since the area is accessible from the Needles Campground.

Looking down, we spotted Peekaboo Camp, a designated campsite. The 4WD road to Peekaboo Camp is only open a few weeks throughout the year based on weather and driving conditions, but we didn’t see any cars nearby, and no one seemed to be camping at Peekaboo that day. We had read about the nearby Peekaboo Spring but weren’t able to find it, but there did seem to be pools of water right before the arch.

Day 4 – Peekaboo Trail

After this point, Salt Creek Road heads north to Cave Spring Trailhead, where we originally planned to end our hike. When we picked up our permit, we had switched our point of exit to the Needles Campground (previously known as Squaw Flat Campground), since we thought hiking on slickrock would be preferable to sand. So instead of heading north, we hiked west from Peekaboo Campsite, onto Peekaboo Trail. The trail ascends onto benches – areas with vertical rock both above and below. The 4.7 mile trail is primarily on slickrock until you reach the campground.

Our first obstacle was a ladder in a crack between fins. Climbing it was a lot of fun, even though our backpacks were a tight fit. Once on top, we spotted a small ruin nearby. As we followed the cairns along the slickrock, the views became more and more impressive. We scrambled up to the benches and ledges above the canyon. At one point, we climbed through a small window in the sandstone.

We continued until we got to an area that seemed sketchy, and recalled the backpackers who told us about this earlier in the day. The narrow, sloped sandstone goes for about 10-15 feet, and has a sheer drop-off. As I started to go across it, my foot slipped. I caught myself and backed up. By this point we were looking around, trying to figure out if this was even the right spot, and were a bit freaked out.

We decided not to risk it and backtracked out of Peekaboo Trail. Our only other option was to hike out to Cave Spring. The trail to Cave Spring is shorter than the hike to the Needles Campground – but our car was parked in the campground. We would need to walk an additional 3.6 miles along the road to reach our car.

Looking at photos of Peekaboo Trail, that narrow area doesn’t look so bad. But I still think we made the right choice for our safety. When hiking and backpacking, it’s vital to trust your instincts and know your limits. Online, it looks like other hikers get past that section just fine, though some blogs mention that it’s scary (a chain or bar would help). Someday, we intend to go back and take another look.

Day 4 – Peekaboo to Cave Spring Trailhead

We headed back toward Peekaboo Campground, our emotions still running pretty high. It was going to be a very long day, so we had to move at a good pace. From there, we went north on Salt Creek Road. It’s flat and obviously used by vehicles. It’s also a huge pain to hike because it’s covered in sand.

I tried to keep a steady pace ahead of Kristin to keep us going. Eventually I tired out, and she took over the lead. The setting sun blazed into our eyes as we tried to find areas with firmer ground. There’s nothing special about the road, but we were more focused on getting out of there than sight-seeing. After 3.4 miles (which seemed like an eternity) we reached the Cave Spring Trailhead.

From there, we hiked an additional 3.6 miles to the campground along a paved road. Once we got back to our car, we were exhausted and it was late. We had hiked around 16 miles that day. We drove back to Moab, grabbed some fast food (from the golden arches), and crashed at our hotel for the night.

The End?

Overall, the trip was an amazing adventure (in spite of our issues with the water filter and Peekaboo Trail). It was one of my favorite trips we’ve ever done, particularly because of the archaeological features. Pictographs like the All American Man and Four Faces are iconic sites that are forever burned into my memory. It was worth all the time it took to plan the route, campsites, and shuttle.

We wish Peekaboo Trail had worked out for us. It’s far more scenic than Salt Creek Road to Cave Spring. The parts of Peekaboo we hiked provided sweeping views, and it was very different compared with the first three days of our trip. If you’re feeling brave, I recommend exiting at the Needles Campground. If you want to play it safe, exit at Cave Spring. A compromise could include a short hike to Peekaboo Trail to see the views and sandstone rims, then exit at Cave Spring.

There’s still more to see in Salt Creek (and the rest of the Needles district). Salt Creek has many side canyons, arches, and other geological features. There are more ruins, pictographs, and petroglyphs out there to find. Someday we plan to go back and explore even more. Until then, I hope this special place stays protected for everyone that visits in the future.

Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (Cathedral Butte to Cave Spring)

Date: Sunday, April 14, 2019 – Wednesday, April 17, 2019
Type: 3-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 28.2 miles (45.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +1093 feet (333 m), -3240 feet (988 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 142 feet (43 m) gain, 1301 feet (397 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC1
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 289 feet (88 m) gain, 555 feet (169 m) loss
  • Time: 8 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC3
• Day 3:
  • Distance: 8.9 miles (14.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 494 feet (151 m) gain, 770 feet (235 m) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring (not including the hour we spent at Angel Arch)
  • Overnight: Salt/Horse Zone (Angel Arch Camp)
• Day 4 (assumes exiting at Cave Spring):
  • Distance: 9.9 miles (15.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 168 feet (51 m) gain, 614 feet (187 m) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring

Trail Markings: Cairns, pink ribbons through the marshy area on the first day
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, small waterfalls, ponds
Highlights: Views, archaeological sites, wildlife, history, waterfalls, geological features
Directions to Cathedral Butte Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: Alternately, you could go the opposite direction, but we highly recommend south to north.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Cathedral Butte Trailhead, go north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 3.9 mi – Pass Kirk Spring on the left, a reliable water source.
• 4.0 mi – Pass Kirk’s Cabin on the right.
• 4.1 mi – Turn right onto the spur to SC1 and SC2. The spur then splits to each individual campsite.
• 4.3 mi – Arrive at SC1/SC2. In the morning, retrace your steps back to Salt Creek Trail.
• 4.4 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail, heading north.
• 6.3 mi – Wedding Ring Arch is nearby. Find a social trail that avoids cryptobiotic soil if you’d like to get closer.
• 8.2 mi – The trail passes close by the All American Man Pictograph.
• 8.8 mi – Cross over Salt Creek, and Four Faces Spring, another great place for water. Right before the spring is the Four Faces Pictograph and ruins.
• 9.4 mi – A small spur trail leads to the SC3 campsite. Stay the night, then continue north on Salt Creek Trail in the morning.
• 12.5 mi – Pass by the spur trail to the SC4 campsite.
• 14.4 mi – You’ve reached the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 14.6 mi – Reach Angel Arch Camp. You can set up your tent here, or wherever you prefer since this is part of the Salt/Horse Dispersed Camping Zone. Just remember, the best site is found, not created. After setting up camp, head back south to the Angel Arch intersection.
• 14.9 mi – Turn left onto Angel Arch Trail.
• 16.5 mi – You’ve arrived at the Molar and Angel Arch. Enjoy! If desired, take the social trail (some scrambling required) to the base of the arch. Head back along Angel Arch Trail when ready.
• 18.1 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail.
• 18.3 mi – Arrive back at your campsite. In the morning, continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 24.8 mi – You’ve arrived at Peekaboo Arch. Continue on the trail, and go through the arch in the fin. Peekaboo Camp, as well as some petroglyphs, are on the other side. Hike through the camp, and continue north on Salt Creek Road.
• 28.2 mi – Salt Creek Road ends at Cave Spring Trailhead, where hopefully you have a car waiting for you. You’re done!

Places

• Cathedral Butte | 37.952721, -109.698471
• Cave Spring | 38.149672, -109.755018
• The Needles Campground | 38.149594, -109.792086
• Kirk Spring | 37.983303, -109.745977
• Kirk Cabin | 37.985556, -109.743722
• SC1 Campsite | 37.98435, -109.74228
• SC2 Campsite | 37.98604, -109.74163
• Wedding Ring Arch | 38.01104, -109.74082
• Four Faces Spring | 38.03934, -109.76152
• SC3 Campsite | 38.03909, -109.76403
• Upper Jump | 38.043318, -109.764622
• SC4 Campsite | 38.055420, -109.770040
• Angel Arch Camp | 38.069867, -109.766616
• Angel Arch | 38.05203, -109.75681
• Peekaboo Camp | 38.114878, -109.754435

Maps

• Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (KTNP)
• The Needles District (NPS)
• The Needles Backcountry Zone Map (NPS)

Links

• NPS
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Permits (recreation.gov)
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Regulations (NPS)
  • Salt Creek Archaeology (NPS)
  • American Indians in Canyonlands (NPS)
• History of Trail
  • NPS Action and History on Salt Creek Canyon Road in 2004 (federalregister.gov)
  • NPS Environmental Assessment : Middle Salt Creek Canyon Access Plan from 2002 (Utah State University)

Planning Resources

• Salt Creek Canyon Trail (UtahTrails)
• Coyote Shuttle
• Books
  • Canyonlands National Park Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails by David Day
  • Hiking, Biking and Exploring Canyonlands National Park and Vicinity by Michael Kelsey

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Our trip to Arches National Park was an adventure. We’ve captured our favorite hikes, dislikes, what we wished we had done, and other tips. We also provide information about visitation statistics and weather which are important considerations when visiting any national park. Here are our takeaways – we hope you can use it as a planning guide for your trip to Arches.

Overview

Arches National Park, located in eastern Utah near the town of Moab, was established to protect the high density of natural sandstone arches, bridges, and other rock formations. Established in 1929 as a National Monument, it was designated as a National Park in 1971. It’s the home of the well known Delicate Arch, which can be seen on tourism literature as well as the Utah state license plate. The fifth longest arch in the world, Landscape Arch, is also in the park.

American author Edward Abbey had been a park ranger in Arches NP from 1956 to 1957. His book, Desert Solitaire, chronicles his experiences within the park. Travis read the book before our trip, which gave him a better understanding of the area.

Compared to other National Parks, Arches is on the smaller side at 76,678 acres. This is similar in size to Theodore Roosevelt and Great Basin National Parks. It’s small enough that we felt like we had a good understanding of the park as a whole by the end of our 5-day visit.

There are plenty of recreational opportunities within the park including hiking, camping, backpacking, and canyoneering. For our trip, we focused on hiking and camping. We enjoyed the vast majority of hikes we did, and each offers something unique.

Our Top 5 in Arches National Park

1. Fiery Furnace – To limit the impact to the land, a permit is required to access Fiery Furnace. The ultimate adventure in the park, hikers can join a ranger-led tour (spring through fall) or do a self-guided hike. We opted for the latter; and had fun getting lost while exploring the picturesque rock formations. We also enjoyed the solitude the area affords.

   

2. Delicate Arch Trail – Hiking to the iconic Delicate Arch was a priority. It’s worth the hype (and crowds), as it boasts a gorgeous arch and other rock formations, interesting terrain, and even some petroglyphs. The La Sal Mountains provide a striking backdrop.

   

3. Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail – This hike can be as long or short as you want, and can be done as a loop or out-and-back. It provides views of Landscape Arch, the fifth longest arch in the world, as well as many other impressive arches. It’s a crowded hike, but the farther you go the fewer people there are.

   

4. Devils Garden Campground – The only campground within the park is centrally located so it’s easy to get out and explore. Additionally, it has sweeping views and convenient, thoughtful amenities. It’s one of our favorite campgrounds we’ve visited.

   

5. Moab – The town of Moab is located just outside the park, but we’re still giving it a mention. We loved Main Street and the variety of restaurants. Even if you’re not a foodie, there’s something for everyone. The only downside for us is that it can be crowded and touristy, depending on when you visit.

   

Mini Adventures

During our trip to Arches National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Balanced Rock – We stopped to check out this popular feature as we drove to Devils Garden Campground on our way into the park. It’s visible from the main road and easy to access. A short 0.3 mile hike loops around a precariously balanced sandstone rock. We enjoyed the walk and views of the surrounding landscape.

  

• Courthouse Wash Rock Art Panel – This pictograph is located just north of Moab, along US Route 191. A small parking lot on the border of Arches National Park leads to a bike trail. We hiked one mile round-trip to see the panel, along with other petroglyphs, at the base of a nearby cliff. Sadly, the rock art was severely damaged in 1980; it’s faint, but still visible.

  

• Park Avenue – This 2.0 mile round-trip out and back trail is the first hike you’ll reach when entering the park. That said, it was our least favorite. There were simply too many people (especially stepping off-trail), and its features didn’t seem as special to us as other hikes in the park. If you only have time for one hike, we recommend choosing another one. There are decent views of a few rock formations, like Three Gossips and Courthouse Towers.

  

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Backcountry Camping – When we planned our trip, it was our intention to backpack in the park. But the park closed down dispersed camping, and transitioned to designated campsites only, so there weren’t any options for backcountry camping during our visit. Currently, there are backcountry sites located off Devils Garden Primitive Trail and Courthouse Wash.
• Lost Spring Canyon – This north-east section of the park was added in 1998. There are no trails here, and we thought it would be a fun backpacking destination. Dispersed camping had been allowed, but was suspended shortly before our visit. Day hiking in the area is a priority next time we visit.
• Courthouse Wash – This route requires some navigation skills, and isn’t as well-advertised as others in the park. There are two sections of Courthouse Wash. The upper wash runs from the main park road to the western border. The lower wash begins along the east side of the main park road and runs to the southern border. Both have options for backcountry camping, or could be done as a shuttle hike or short out-and-back. It’s one of the few hikes in the park that may have a significant amount of water along the trail.

  

• Autotouring – There are a couple of 4WD roads within the park that interested us, specifically in Willow Flats and Herdina Park. We were curious to see what they had to offer, even though we focus mostly on hiking, camping, and backpacking.
• And many more…

Weather

Arches NP can be very hot, especially during late spring and summer. You’ll want to bring ample water, snacks, sunscreen, and a hat. March through May and September through October are the best times to visit Arches NP. We went in March and highly recommend it. Rain isn’t much of a concern since the area gets so little. As mentioned, the summer gets HOT, so we don’t recommend visiting during this time. If you do visit in summer, get out early, avoid mid-day, and bring lots of water.

Visitation Statistics

May through August is the most popular time to visit the park, assumedly because of summer break. We visited during spring break – there were fewer people, and the weather was milder. If you’re constrained by a school calendar, we recommend going during spring break instead.

Even in spring, the park is still booming with visitors, to the point where there are almost too many people. The chart below shows the influx of visitors by year. It’s been steadily increasing, aside from a drop in 2020 due to COVID-19. During the busiest times of the day (especially during the high season), the park entrance will close temporarily until enough visitors leave the park. Typically the park entrance closes mid-morning, and reopens in the early afternoon.

There have been discussions about alternate solutions. From April 3 to October 3, 2022, the park has implemented a timed entry pilot program. Visitors must reserve a ticket to enter the park between 6 a.m. and 5 p.m. This will require planning ahead, but should lessen congestion in the park. Of course, the best option might be to camp at Devils Garden Campground so you don’t have to worry about reserving a pass or re-entering the park.

Our Itinerary

We started our exploration of the park with hikes near Devils Garden Campground. Our planned itinerary worked well, but there are countless ways to plan your trip.

If you only have time for one hike, we recommend:

• Short Hike: Double Arch
• Medium Hike: Devils Garden Trail to Landscape Arch
• Long Hike: Delicate Arch

Our Experiences

• Devils Garden Campground
• Tower Arch Trail
• Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arch Loop Trail
• Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail
• Windows Loop and Double Arch Trails
• Delicate Arch Trail
• Fiery Furnace
• Moab Accommodations & Restaurants

Interactive Map

Paper Maps

• Arches National Park Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)
• Arches National Park Maps (NPS)

The post Best Hikes, Itinerary and Planning Guide appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We don’t go backpacking too often in the middle of summer (travels aside). But we had a free weekend, and we wanted to test out some new gear and get in shape for an upcoming trip to Glacier NP. So it was back to Shenandoah National Park for a quick one-nighter.

Initially we wanted to hike Jeremy’s Run, one of our favorite backpacking routes in the park. In reading some trip reports, it seemed like the trail could be laden with poison ivy in the summer though, which was a no-go for a fairly sensitive individual like myself. Instead, we decided on a 15.2 mile loop trail in the central district. The loop would go up Nicholson Hollow, past White Rocks, and return on Hannah Run Trail.

Planning

While we hadn’t done this exact loop before, White Rocks is a special place for us – it was the first place we ever went backpacking. It was only a one-night ~5.0 mile round trip from Skyline Drive, but we learned a lot and had a great time. This trip would be longer and more strenuous, at 15.2 miles and 3,742 feet cumulative elevation gain/loss. White Rocks Trail features a few views, and a spur trail leads to a waterfall and cave. We planned to camp near the intersection with that spur trail.

As mentioned, I tested out three pieces of equipment on this hike: Brooks Cascadia trail runners, a Sony a6400 camera, and an REI Flash 55 ultralight backpack. All three items were for slightly different uses compared with my current set of gear, which at the time was a pair of Vasque hiking boots, a Sony RX100 IV camera, and an Osprey Atmos 65 AG backpack.

The route we chose starts on the east side of the park boundary. The closest parking is the Old Rag Parking Lot, which fills up early on weekends. A few days before the trip, I called Shenandoah to ask a few questions. Among other things, the ranger informed me that the park may someday require the use of bear canisters, due to backpackers hanging bear bags incorrectly. That was certainly a surprise to hear! We’ll see if it happens.

Day 1 – Nicholson Hollow Trail

We arrived at the Old Rag Parking Lot at 8:30 a.m. on a Saturday. There was plenty of space, but it was filling up fast. First, we requested a backcountry permit at the ranger booth. Then we hit the… road? If you’ve hiked Old Rag prior to 2020, you’re familiar with walking along Nethers Road for a bit before you reach any trailheads. As of 2020, a new parking lot was built closer to the trailheads, across the street from Nicholson Hollow Trail. But in 2019, we had to walk along the road to get to Nicholson Hollow Trail, which splits off before Old Rag Trail.

A trail intersection marker pointed us down a gravel road off to the right. At the end of the road is a gate, and to its right is the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. The first half mile of the trail goes through private property before entering the park. After about one minute on the trail, we reached our first stream crossing, across Brokenback Run. Nicely laid out rocks provided easy stepping stones. But it had rained recently, so the rocks were wet and the stream was flowing fast and high. Luckily we had our trekking poles to help us balance.

I went first, and Kristin followed. As I reached the middle of the stream, my foot slipped and plunged into the chilly water. Of course. My other foot held onto a rock and I pulled myself out easily, but my shoe, sock, and foot were soaked. It turned out to be a good test of the trail runners. Even with the humidity, the shoes drained and gradually dried as I hiked – they were mostly dry by the time we camped later that night.

Shortly after the first stream crossing was an almost identical second one over Hughes River. Two guys crossed from the opposite direction as we waited. They had parked at Skyline Drive, and were taking Nicholson Hollow Trail to get to Old Rag. That’s one way to do it. When it was our turn to cross, I made sure my footing was secure and we both got across without incident.

After crossing, we continued hiking with Hughes River on our left. Occasional paths led out to the river for a better view. There were waterfalls, rapids, and swimming holes along the way – good opportunities to play around with my Sony a6400 camera. Nicholson Hollow is an enjoyable trail, with gradual elevation gain and a peaceful river next door. Along the way, we crossed into Shenandoah National Park.

After 1.2 miles on Nicholson Hollow Trail, we came to an intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail. This area has several backcountry campsites, though it was too early in the day for us to make camp. Another 0.4 miles later, we turned right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail.

Day 1 – Hazel Mountain and River Trails

While we really enjoyed Nicholson Hollow Trail, we really didn’t enjoy Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. It’s a lot of uphill gain, and the trail is overgrown, narrow, and a bit of a slog. To our left was Short Mountain and to our right, Hot Mountain. For 2.1 miles we climbed up, taking a break for lunch about halfway through.

Upon reaching the intersection with Hazel Mountain Trail, we took a short break. While resting, I looked down at my shin and saw a small insect – a tiny deer tick. Oh, that’s why we don’t hike in Shenandoah as often in the summer. Thankfully, it hadn’t attached yet and I shook it off. After our break, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail.

Hazel Mountain Trail isn’t too interesting, but it’s a good workout as it ascends and descends. After 1.2 miles, we turned right onto Hazel River Trail, which descends 700 feet over 1.8 miles. It was also terribly overgrown. Worried about ticks, I made sure to cover my legs despite the heat and humidity. It was probably my least favorite trail on this route.

Day 1 – White Rocks Trail

Eventually, in what took longer than I thought it should, we reached the junction with White Rocks Trail. We passed a few campsites, crossed Hazel River, and began ascending steadily. It’s a tough ascent initially, but eventually we got to a ridgeline that goes up and down as it spans four summits.

There are limited views along this section. If you can find them, faint side trails on the left lead to rock outcroppings that offer better views. These scenic vistas are considered to be the “white rocks.” Unfortunately for us, we didn’t do a great job of finding them – we bushwhacked a bit, but we may have missed some more obvious areas. Hopefully, next time we’ll do a better job of locating the viewpoints.

After 1.4 miles, we reached the intersection with the Cave/Falls Spur Trail, near where we planned to camp. Years ago, on our first backpacking trip, we stayed at a fairly large and private campsite with a huge rock. Unfortunately, this time it was occupied. So we grabbed another nearby site that seemed comparable, minus the huge rock.

It was nice to take a break and unload our gear. So far, I had really enjoyed using my ultralight REI Flash backpack – it’s super comfortable and definitely weighs less than my old pack. Of course, I plan to keep them both. We set up our tent and grabbed our water filtration supplies.

Day 1 – Cave/Falls Spur Trail

We headed down Cave/Falls Spur Trail, a steep tenth of a mile. The closest water source, Hazel River, is at the bottom, along with beautiful waterfall and cave. As we started to descend, two guys came up and said that the falls and cave “aren’t worth it.” We’ve been there before, and we disagree. Plus, we needed water.

At the bottom of the steep hill, we saw a pool of water with a tiny waterfall. After walking upstream along Hazel River, we spotted a second waterfall, known as Hazel Falls. The waterfall is small, pretty, and secluded. On the opposite side of the trail is a cave that goes back about 10 to 15 feet. Even though it’s shallow, it’s interesting and fun to explore.

Both the falls and cave are picturesque, so we experimented with my new wide-angle camera lens. After snapping way too many photos, we began filtering some water. Suddenly, it started raining gently for about 30 seconds. It cooled us off, and foreshadowed what was to come.

Later that evening, I walked along White Rocks Trail to see if there were any other campsites near us. There were, and I spotted an attempt at a “bear bag.” Except it was just a plastic grocery bag tied to a small branch, right next to a tree trunk, about five feet off the ground. Flashback to the park ranger who said Shenandoah may require bear canisters in the future. Now I see why. C’mon people, hang your bear bags properly.

Back in the tent, we did a tick check. This time we found a deer tick attached near my waist. Ugh, I hate ticks. We removed it, then headed to sleep. We drifted off to the sounds of rain, wind, and thunder.

Day 2 – White Rocks Trail

Around 6:45 a.m., we woke up and the rain had stopped, so we were able to make breakfast. Usually we do oatmeal with nuts, seeds, and fruit, but this time we shared a Mountain House hash dehydrated meal. It tasted pretty good, but we missed the dense calories we get from the oatmeal. We packed up and headed west on White Rocks Trail.

White Rocks Trail ascends initially before leveling out. It’s quite narrow in places, and Kristin was in front of me. I saw her step over a snake, and I asked her if she noticed it. “No…” she said, slightly stunned. I stopped with the snake between us. “It’s okay,” I said. “I don’t think it’s poisonous.”

The snake poked its head out onto the path, and just sat there. Kristin and I both backed away to give the snake its space; it immediately slithered across the trail and was gone. Later we looked it up based on photos I took. It was a copperhead…so much for my theory.

After that excitement, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail. We crossed Hazel River and saw a neat pickerel frog (also poisonous) nearby. As we continued, Kristin and I chatted about all the wildlife we’ve seen while hiking, and lamented never having seen a black bear in Shenandoah in the four years that we’ve been hiking there together.

Shortly after, we heard a noise off to the side, and a black bear stepped onto Hazel Mountain Trail about 100 feet in front of us. “Bear,” I said softly, I didn’t have time to say anything else. It glanced at us, then quietly continued across the trail. The encounter lasted only seconds. I didn’t even have time to get my camera out, but it was exhilarating to see a black bear in the wild.

Day 2 – Hannah Run Trail

At the intersection with Catlett Spur Trail, we continued straight on Hazel Mountain Trail. It’s a muddy, uphill climb and we didn’t notice anything special beyond a few yellow Clintonia wildflowers (which weren’t flowering this time of year). After 1.1 miles that seemed much longer, we turned right onto Catlett Mountain Trail, then immediately left onto Hannah Run Trail. There, we ran into some fellow hikers for the first time that day.

The segment of our hike on Hannah Run Trail was 2.4 miles, with steep ups and downs and a few stream crossings. Along the way were a few remnants left by occupants of the area before it became a park: a fireplace and an old stone wall. We ate lunch on the trail, and I found tick #3 on me; thankfully, Kristin hadn’t found any. At a few points near the end of Hannah Run Trail, it looked like there would be some good views, but the trees always seemed to block them. There would likely be more visibility in spring or fall.

About a half mile away from returning to Nicholson Hollow Trail, I felt a popping sensation under my knee, and it started hurting like hell. I could barely move without grimacing, and I had no idea what went wrong. Somehow, we made it to Nicholson Hollow, and found a campsite where I took a break. It helped a bit, and I managed to make it back to our car.

At home, we did a thorough tick check, then showered. That’s when Kristin spotted a tiny deer tick on her leg. Even after checking AND showering! We quickly removed it, and remained vigilant for the next 24 hours or so. As for my knee, it continued hurting for the next week, so I saw my doctor and was told I strained my hamstring. I headed to a physical therapist so I could survive our upcoming trip to Glacier National Park.

Now for my opinion on the gear I tried out. The Brooks Cascadia trail runners, while not having the same amount of grip as my boots, were definitely lighter and dried quickly. The REI Flash lightweight backpack was also a winner; in the end it was more comfortable than my Osprey Atmos AG. We’ll see if that’s still the case with continued use. And while the Sony a6400 took great photos, I realized that I hate changing lenses, so that one is still to be determined.

Overall, the hike was enjoyable. Our favorite sections were Nicholson Hollow, White Rocks, and the Cave/Falls Trail. There are some cozy campsites, though it was disheartening to see how some campers hung their food and other scented items when there are bears nearby. The wildlife we saw also made the trip rather memorable. Spring and fall are probably ideal seasons for this route – if you go in the summer, make sure to stay on the lookout for ticks.

Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow

Date: Saturday, June 29, 2019 – Sunday, June 30, 2019
Type: 1 Night Backpacking Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 15.2 miles (24.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3742 feet (1141 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 8.2 miles (13.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 2650 feet (808 m) gain, 1538 feet (469 m) loss
  • Time: 6.5 hours, which includes lunch and occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A backcountry campsite near the intersection of White Rocks Trail and Cave/Falls Spur Trail
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 7.0 miles (11.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1092 feet (333 m) gain, 2204 feet (671 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Multiple streams and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, history, waterfalls
Directions to Old Rag Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Old Rag parking lot, head 0.1 miles west on Nethers Road. At the fork, turn right onto a gravel road (there’s a trail marker at the fork). After 170 feet you’ll see the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead on your right. Start your hike here. Two stream crossings will come in short succession after hiking 125 feet.
• 1.2 mi – At the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail, continue straight.
• 1.7 mi – Turn right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. This trail has the steepest incline on the route.
• 3.8 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 4.3 mi – Continue straight on Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Catlett Mountain Trail
• 4.8 mi – Continue on yellow-blazed Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Sam’s Ridge Trail
• 5.0 mi – Turn right onto Hazel River Trail, which will descend steeply
• 6.4 mi – Turn left onto White Rocks Trail. About 0.1 miles in, you’ll cross Hazel River and start ascending. The trail follows a ridgeline that goes up and down four summits.
• 8.2 mi – Intersection with Cave/Falls Spur Trail, which leads down to Hazel Falls. There are several campsites in the area, which is where we stayed. Go down Cave/Falls Spur Trail to a water source, Hazel Falls, and a cave.
• 9.3 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 9.8 mi – Turn right onto blue-blazed Catlett Spur Trail
• 10.9 mi – Turn right onto Catlett Mountain Trail and go 230 feet, then turn left onto Hannah Run Trail.
• 13.4 mi – Turn left onto Nicholson Hollow Trail
• 13.6 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Hot Mountain-Short Mountain. At this point, you’ve completed the “loop” part of the hike.
• 14.0 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail.
• 15.2 mi – Back at the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. Continue back up the gravel road to Nethers Road. Head left 0.1 miles to the Old Rag Parking Lot.

Places

• Old Rag Parking on Nethers Road| 38.5721462, -78.294921
• Nicholson Hollow Trailhead | 38.5731685,-78.2958718

Maps

• Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow Trail Map (KTNP)
• Old Rag Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Shenandoah NP Tick Information (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Surprisingly, this was our first hike in the southern section of Shenandoah National Park. Before this, the furthest south we had travelled in the park was Bearfence Mountain. Most of the well known hikes are in the central and northern districts. And while we consider Shenandoah our “home park,” driving there from Northern Virginia can take a while.

We spent a weekend at Big Meadows Lodge, and planned to hike Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail, one of the most popular routes in the south district. The hike includes a section of the Appalachian Trail, forming a 9.8 mile circuit. The combination of trails, which circumnavigates Rock Mountain, is also commonly called Riprap Hollow.

An early start is crucial, especially since the trail is relatively long and strenuous. The loop starts along Skyline Drive, with parking options at mile markers 90 and 92. The lot at mile 90 is the official “Riprap Parking Lot,” while the one at mile 92 is called “Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot.”

Appalachian Trail

Staying at the lodge was a fun new experience for us – and it allowed us to get to the trailhead in just over an hour. As we headed down Skyline Drive, we enjoyed the ambience and scenic overlooks. Eventually, we came to the small parking lot at mile marker 90 – which was totally full. So we drove two more miles to 92, where there were still some parking spaces.

We planned to hike the loop counter-clockwise, starting on the Appalachian Trail. Then we’d take Riprap Trail to Wildcat Ridge Trail, which leads back to the trailhead. The loop could also be hiked clockwise, and we’ll probably try that next time. Going counter-clockwise allows you to arrive at the viewpoints sooner, but you’ll have a steeper ascent on Wildcat Ridge at the end of the route. Hiking clockwise allows you to hit a swimming hole earlier, and you’ll ascend Riprap Trail more gradually.

Our route started on Wildcat Ridge Trail, where we hiked for a few minutes before turning right (northbound) on the AT. This loop is also a good option for backpacking. But the week we were there, signs were posted notifying hikers that backcountry camping was closed due to black bear activity.

This part of the AT is relatively flat, and there were occasional views through the trees to our left (west). It was June, so we only saw a couple blooming wildflowers – mainly rattlesnake hawkweed. On a log, we also saw a huge fishing spider. I’m not really a fan of spiders, but this one was interesting to see. Mountain laurel lined the trail, though it had mostly finished flowering, so we only glimpsed a couple of white flowers.

Riprap Trail – Views

After hiking for 2.8 miles, we reached the Riprap trailhead along Skyline Drive at mile marker 90. A short distance later, we turned left onto Riprap Trail. There are two viewpoints that we wanted to check out along the trail, Calvary Rocks and Chimney Rock. But first, we made our way through some switchbacks and passed by a large talus field.

Shortly after, we reached our first viewpoint along the right side of the trail near Calvary Rocks. Looking northwest from the viewpoint, we saw the Shenandoah Valley and towns below. As we continued on the trail, we saw some rock formations on our left – the true Calvary Rocks. We didn’t have time to explore, but you could go off-trail and scramble around.

As we continued, we quickly came to the next viewpoint – Chimney Rock. As we gazed out again to the northwest, we thought that this view was better than the one at Calvary Rocks. For a shorter hike, this is a good spot to turn around, but we kept going. The views to our right continued as we followed the quickly narrowing trail along a ridgeline.

We gradually began descending the rocky trail to Cold Spring Hollow. Wild azalea and mountain laurel were all around us – unfortunately no longer flowering. We also found blueberry bushes beside the trail, which we hadn’t expected. Most of the berries weren’t quite ripe, but we found a couple that were and snacked on them.

Riprap Trail – Water Features

Eventually, we were hiking parallel to a small stream that flows into Meadow Run. The stream moves through a pretty gorge area with a few small waterfalls. After that, we encountered a few posts that read “No Camping.” We believe these are old and can be disregarded. There’s nothing about this area being closed to camping on Shenandoah’s website, and a couple campsites are scattered around.

From here, the trail crosses the stream and follows it for a good ways. About 0.3 miles after the gorge area, we came to a stunning swimming hole. We relaxed for a bit, watching the stream gently cascade into the pool. We weren’t prepared to go swimming, but a couple of other hikers were. I would love to come back sometime to take a dip.

After leaving the swimming hole, the trail became a bit harder to follow, as there was a side trail leading to an old shelter. The shelter was removed when the area became a wilderness, but we found some signs pointing to its former site. We made sure to look for the blue blazes, and once we were on the right track we quickly made it to the next intersection. Riprap Trail continues to the boundary of Shenandoah NP, but we turned left onto Wildcat Ridge Trail to head back to the parking lot.

Wildcat Ridge Trail

Crossing the stream one last time, we started to ascend. While Wildcat Ridge trail isn’t too long, it has the steepest elevation gain of the loop. We had a constant uphill climb, with a few switchbacks, for about 2.6 miles until we reached the intersection with the Appalachian Trail. There were a few views on the way, but nothing too impressive.

At the intersection of Wildcat Ridge Trail and the AT, we spotted an eastern cottontail rabbit – though we see them more frequently in our yard than while hiking. From there, it was a quick walk back to the parking lot. We climbed into the car and drove back to Big Meadows Lodge, where we had a delicious dinner as we watched the sun set.

This was a great hike, and we know we’ll be back again. Views and water features meant there was a lot to see along the way. We recommend doing the full loop if you can, but if not, Chimney Rock is worth a visit. I wish the loop was closer to where we live so we could hike it more easily.

Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail

Date: Saturday, June 22, 2019
Type: Loop dayhike
Total Distance: 9.6 miles (15.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2382 feet (726 m)
Time: 7 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
Crowds: Low to moderate
Water: Various streams, creeks, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Multiple views, wildflowers, waterfall, swimming holes
Notes: This route can be done clockwise or counterclockwise.
Directions to Wildcat Ridge Parking (mile marker 92): Google Maps Directions
Directions to Riprap Parking (mile marker 90): Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot, begin on blue-blazed Wildcat Ridge Trail. If you parked at the Riprap Parking Lot, start at the 2.8 mile trail direction after taking the short spur trail from the parking lot to the AT.
• 0.1 mi – Turn right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail
• 2.8 mi – Continue straight on the AT, past the intersection with the trail that leads to Riprap Parking Lot.
• 3.2 mi – Turn left onto Riprap Trail
• 3.9 mi – Calvary Rocks Viewpoint
• 4.3 mi – Chimney Rock Viewpoint
• 6.3 mi – Swimming hole
• 6.9 mi – Turn left onto Wildcat Ridge Trail
• 9.5 mi – Continue straight on Wildcat Ridge Trail at the intersection with the Appalachian Trail
• 9.6 mi – Back at Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot

Places

• Riprap Parking Lot | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 90
• Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 92
• Calvary Rocks Viewpoint | 38.1871442,-78.7732787
• Chimney Rock Viewpoint | 38.1865942, -78.7788787

Maps

• Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Riprap Area Road and Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Calvary Rocks (Summit Post)
• Chimney Rock (Summit Post)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Spring is a great time to go for a hike and see wildflowers in Shenandoah National Park. This time, we decided on a hike to Rapidan Camp in the Central District. The camp was a summer getaway for President Herbert Hoover between 1929 and 1933. It is also important as it helped initiate the construction of Skyline Drive.

In 1933, the Hoovers donated the land to Shenandoah National Park. It was later used as both a boy scout camp and federal retreat. In 2004, the National Park Service restored the camp and opened it to the public. From late spring to fall, the park offers a guided tour of the area (reservations are required). You can also visit Rapidan Camp on your own, though you won’t be able to get into some of the buildings.

A network of trails provides access to the area. The shortest route is a 4.0 mile out and back hike along Mill Prong Trail. We generally prefer loops, so we decided on a longer 7.1 mile circuit that starts along Mill Prong Trail and returns on the Appalachian Trail.

This wasn’t our first visit to Rapidan Camp. We’d been there before on a backpacking trip (the same trail, but in the opposite direction). No camping is allowed within 0.5 miles of the area, and we had camped just outside of that perimeter. If you’re interested in backpacking, check out our trail map for campsite locations. We’ve also been meaning to backpack a longer route through Rapidan Camp from Jones Mountain, but haven’t gotten to it yet.

Milam Gap

Every year, Shenandoah National Park has a wildflower weekend, and this was the week after so we were hoping we’d see plenty of flowers. Mill Prong Trail begins across from a parking lot known as Milam Gap (near mile marker 53 on Skyline Drive). The lot was full, but we found a spot along the road. We crossed Skyline Drive and headed southbound on the Appalachian Trail. At the intersection with Mill Prong Trail, we turned left (though you could also get to Rapidan Camp by continuing on the AT). The trail started descending, and we spotted some geraniums.

There are three water crossings on the way to Rapidan Camp. We first crossed a stream that feeds into Mill Prong, the river that gives Mill Prong Trail its name. The water was decently high, but it was easy to cross. Afterwards, the stream flowed on our right until we crossed another small creek. Mill Prong Trail ends shortly after, and we took a slight right onto Mill Prong Horse Trail.

Soon, two large horses headed toward us. Mill Prong Horse Trail, if you couldn’t tell from the name, is a yellow-blazed trail, so horses are allowed. For all the hikes we’ve done in Shenandoah, this is the first time we actually saw people on horseback. We stepped off the trail to let them pass.

Finally we arrived at Big Rock Falls, where we crossed Mill Prong (the creek, not the trail). This is the last stream crossing, and it’s a bit harder to navigate than the others. The trail was decently crowded with a large group of backpackers, so we took our time. Big Rock Falls is impressive and makes for a good spot to take a break. About ten minutes after Big Rock Falls, we reached the gravel road that leads to Rapidan Camp.

Rapidan Camp

At the gravel road, we turned right, then immediately left, onto a path that goes into the heart of Rapidan Camp. The camp is situated where two streams – Laurel Prong and Mill Prong – join to form the Rapidan River. The area has excellent trout fishing, which is one feature that attracted the Hoovers. A man-made waterway, called Hemlock Run, flows through the camp, though there isn’t much water in it these days.

The camp originally comprised 15 buildings, but only three remain: Brown House, Creel Cabin, and the Prime Minister’s Cabin. Creel Cabin houses park employees, while the other two buildings have exhibits that visitors can explore. Brown House, the building where President Hoover stayed, was closed when we visited. The Prime Minister’s Cabin was open, so we checked that out. It was named for Ramsay MacDonald, the Prime Minister of Great Britain, who stayed at Rapidan in 1929.

Afterward, we explored the outside of Brown House. Looking at holes in the outer part of the roof, we realized the structure had been built around large trees. We thought it was pretty cool that nature had been incorporated into the design. First lady Lou Henry Hoover had wanted to build the camp with a low ecological footprint.

Brown House was closed until the following week, when tours of Rapidan Camp would begin for the season, but its porch made for a nice lunch spot. As we ate, a park volunteer chatted with us about the huge hemlock trees that once grew above the camp, keeping it cool in the summer. Sadly, those trees died in the 1990s due to an insect called the woolly adelgid. We wished we had the opportunity to take the tour to learn more, but at least we learned some history of the area by talking with the volunteer.

Laurel Prong Trail

After lunch, we continued on. Unfortunately, we went the wrong way onto Hemlock Run Trail which, naturally, follows Hemlock Run. At the end of the short 0.2 mile trail, we reached Laurel Dam. The “dam” is really two concrete posts that make a sluice gate. It was used to redirect water from Laurel Prong to the man-made Hemlock Run, which travels through Rapidan Camp.

Once we realized our mistake, we headed back to Rapidan and found the correct path to Laurel Prong Horse Trail – a gravel road that eventually turned into a muddy path. We passed a side trail to Five Tents, the area where the first Rapidan Camp buildings were located. They were simple buildings with wooden floors and canvas tents above. We didn’t have time to check it out, but the main structures have long since been removed. Apparently items like electric fixtures and old fireplaces are still there, though.

Next, we reached the intersection of Laurel Prong Trail and Fork Mountain Horse Trail. The area has several campsites, and it’s where we stayed while backpacking a few years prior. This is about as close as you can pitch a tent to Rapidan Camp.

As we continued on Laurel Prong Trail, we started seeing many more wildflowers like showy orchid, pink lady slippers, Canadian mayflower, and bluets. There’s also a lot of mountain laurel, but it wasn’t quite flowering yet. We continued along a ridgeline, and saw more wildflowers like beautiful wild azalea.

As we admired the flora, Kristin said she felt a raindrop. I felt nothing. Then she said she heard thunder. I heard nothing. Five minutes later, I caught up to her – and I could feel and hear the approaching rain. Luckily we had rain jackets, because it started to pour and we had around three miles to go. We passed an intersection with Cat Knob trail and continued ascending.

Appalachian Trail

As the rain poured, we made it to the next intersection and turned right onto the Appalachian Trail. We started ascending to Hazeltop (3812′), the third highest peak in the park, and saw lots of trilliums growing. Some were already past their prime, but it was nice to see them. Near the peak of Hazeltop, the rain finally let up. A small side trail provides a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, so we decided to check it out. After returning to the main trail, it started pouring again.

The rain finally let up as we descended to Milam Gap on the AT. A backpacker had pitched his tent directly on top of some ferns along the trail. As a reminder, make sure to use an established campsite so you can “leave no trace.” As we returned to Milam Gap, we noticed it hadn’t rained there at all. You never know when or where a spring shower will hit!

Surrounded by nature and rich history, Rapidan Camp has a bit of everything. Whether you’re dayhiking or backpacking, it makes a great destination. The loop we took was even more interesting with the spring wildflowers. And in our experience, it hasn’t been too crowded compared to other popular hikes in the park.

Rapidan Camp Loop Trail

Date: Saturday, May 18, 2019
Type: Out and back dayhike
Total Distance: 7.1 miles (11.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1405 feet (428 m)
Time: 6 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low to moderate
Water: Various streams and creeks along the way, Big Rock Falls
Highlights: History, Views, Wildflowers, Waterfall
Notes: This route can be done clockwise or counterclockwise. If camping, make sure you’re at least 0.5 miles from Rapidan Camp.
Directions to Milam Gap: Google Maps Directions (Near MM 53 on Skyline Drive)

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Milam Gap, cross Skyline Drive on the south side of the lot. You’ll be on the Appalachian Trail. In about 125 feet, turn left onto blue-blazed Mill Prong Trail. The trail will descend until you reach Rapidan Camp.
• 1.0 mi – After crossing a couple streams, Mill Prong Trail ends as it abuts the yellow-blazed Mill Prong Horse Trail. At the fork, turn right.
• 1.5 mi – Big Rock Falls, the last time you’ll cross Mill Prong
• 1.8 mi – Cross the gravel Camp Hoover Road. Slightly to the right is a gravel path that goes into the heart of Rapidan Camp and past The Creel. Explore as much as you like, then head west toward Laurel Prong Horse Trail. If you’re not sure which way to go, continue along Camp Hoover Road until you reach an intersection with Laurel Prong Horse Trail, which also looks like a road initially.
• 1.9 mi – On your right is a sign and a set of stairs leading up to Five Tents. Continue straight on yellow-blazed Laurel Prong Horse Trail (or check out Five Tents if you have time). The trail will start ascending around this point.
• 2.4 mi – Continue straight onto the blue-blazed Laurel Prong Trail. Laurel Prong will be the hardest part of the hike due to its ascent.
• 3.7 mi – At the fork, turn right to continue on Laurel Prong Trail. Cat Knob Trail will be to your left.
• 4.7 mi – Turn right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail.
• 5.1 mi – On the left, look for a short trail to a panoramic viewpoint that looks west. This is near the summit of Hazeltop. After this, you’ll start descending all the way back to Milam Gap.
• 7.1 mi – Return to the intersection with Mill Prong Trail. Continue straight on the AT, and cross Skyline Drive to return to Milam Gap.

Places

• Milam Gap Trailhead | 38.5031917,-78.4495831
• Rapidan Camp | 38.4870578,-78.4141389

Maps

• Rapidan Camp and Mill Prong Loop Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Rapidan Camp Tours (NPS)
• Rapidan Camp History (NPS)
• A Retreat Fit for a President (NPS)
• Rapidan Camp (Wikipedia)
• National Archives Camp Hoover (National Register of Historic Places)
• Historical Photo of The Hoovers On Porch (NPGallery)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Rapidan Camp Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We don’t usually hike in the winter. It’s cold (obviously), and daylight is lacking. Ice and downed trees often close off Skyline Drive, so you can’t access most of Shenandoah National Park. We had been trying to hike for weeks in Shenandoah, but the central district had been closed.

I’m not a fan of winter and was eager to put it behind me. Finally, with some warmer weekend weather, we found ourselves hiking Stony Man Trail. It was getting warmer out, so I insisted it was actually spring, but Kristin argued that it was still winter.

This easy 3.4 mile loop features multiple viewpoints, and makes for a great winter hike when daylight hours are limited. In fact, we hiked Stony Man the previous winter too.

To Skyland

Entering Skyline Drive through the Thorton Gap entrance, we headed south to Stony Man overlook at mile 38.5. The mountain gets its name from a rocky outcropping at the summit that supposedly looks like a man’s face. Since it was winter, we had a decent view of the rock formation. Then we headed further south to mile marker 41 (almost 42) for the trailhead.

Stony Man trailhead is located within the Skyland area. There’s a decent sized parking lot, especially compared to other trailheads, immediately after entering Skyland. Near the trailhead is an interpretive trail guide that can be purchased for $1 – we didn’t get it this time, but have previously. The guide isn’t essential, but explains some landmarks along the way. Numbered posts along the route match up with the guide.

Stony Man Trail

Our hike started on the Appalachian Trail, which is blazed white and blue. The trail starts off pretty easy, and we quickly saw evidence of a fire from 2017. Compared to last year though, the signs are quickly disappearing. We hiked 0.4 miles and came to a 4-way intersection, where Stony Man Trail is straight ahead and Stony Man Trail Connector is to the left. The AT continues right, but we went straight onto Stony Man Trail. We would do a short loop to Stony Man summit, then return to the AT.

At the intersection is a sign saying “No Pets,” but as we passed the sign we saw an off-leash dog. Shenandoah is a relatively dog-friendly park, but certain trails are not. Stony Man Trail splits after 420 feet, forming the loop. If you’re following the guide, the numbers increase if you go counter-clockwise. We opted for clockwise, for no particular reason.

There’s some elevation gain, but it’s nothing strenuous. We passed some boulders on our right, and took a short spur trail that leads to the summit after 0.4 miles. You’ll notice a hitching rail near the intersection. Horseback riders can summit the mountain using the adjacent Stony Man Horse Trail.

Shortly after passing underneath some gnarled trees, the summit trail deposited us onto a rocky viewpoint. Today was a breezy clear day, so we had views to the northwest. Below us, we could see Skyland Resort, and the overlook where we stopped along Skyline Drive. The summit wasn’t crowded; we snapped some photos, then headed back to the intersection.

We continued on to complete Stony Man Trail loop. The green moss, pines, and ferns really popped against the grays and browns of winter. Salamander research stations are scattered around the area on poles. We saw similar ones on Hawksbill Trail.

Once we completed Stony Man Trail loop, we turned left onto the Appalachian Trail as it descends. After about 15 minutes, we reached Little Stony Man viewpoint. It offers panoramic views, though Stony Man has better scenery. We enjoyed exploring the cliffs and taking some pictures.

Passamaquoddy Trail

After Little Stony Man, we came to a three-way intersection. We left the AT behind as we turned left onto Passamaquoddy Trail. George Pollock, the proprietor of Skyland Resort, named the trail when it was built in 1932. According to Henry Heatwoles, author of Guide to Shenandoah National Park and Skyline Drive, Pollock named it Passamaquoddy Trail because, he said, Passamaquoddy is a Maine Indian word meaning “abounding in pollock” (an abundant salt water fish on the Maine coast). So, a roundabout way of naming it after himself.

Passamaquoddy Trail is mostly level, though it ascends and descends gently. There’s a viewpoint about five minutes down the trail, which we think is worth seeing. Another hiker warned us that further on there were some icy spots. We thanked him and continued, reaching a slightly muddy icy area soon after. Gingerly stepping around the ice, we pressed on.

We came to some cliffs on the left that are often used for rock climbing. No one was climbing at the time, and there were signs indicating where climbers should avoid in order to protect the area. Further on, some boulder fields ran across the trail.

The next icy area was significantly different. Dripping icicles emerged from a rocky outcropping above us. Water on the ground had refrozen to form bubble-like ice formations, which I approached to take photos. In doing so, I slipped on the ice, my camera went flying and I whacked my knee on a rock…ouch. Thankfully my camera was okay, but my pride and knee suffered a bit. I had been arguing with Kristin that it was actually spring, but slipping on the ice made me realize winter wasn’t over yet.

At the end of the Passamaquoddy Trail is what I would describe as a hobbit house. It’s a building that has been set back in a mound. If you get close to the door and listen, you can hear running water behind it. This is Furnace Spring, which formerly supplied water to a copper smelter. These days, it’s the water supply for Skyland Resort. Some of the water flows under the trail and out the other side through a pipe.

Furnace Spring Horse Trail

Immediately after the spring, we turned left onto Furnace Spring Horse Trail. To the right is Skyland Fire Road, so the start of the Furnace Spring Horse Trail is gravelly and looks less like a trail. The trail loops to the north and behind the Furnace Spring building before heading south.

This section of the hike is the most strenuous. Furnace Spring Trail gains about 250 feet of elevation as it returns to the parking lot. Half a mile later, we reached an intersection with Stony Man Horse Trail. As we briefly turned left onto Stony Man Horse Trail, we could already see the parking lot where we began.

Stony Man is an enjoyable trail, which was a relief since some hikes we’ve been on lately have been kinda blah. Varied terrain and elevation with rocky outcroppings, mountains, and views enhance the experience. And despite the ice, it’s nice in winter. Regardless of the season, go on a clear day so you can appreciate the mountain views.

Stony Man Trail

Dates: March 17, 2019
Type: Out and Back Dayhike
Total Distance: 3.4 miles (5.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 849 feet (259 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including photo breaks
Trail Markings: Colored blazes and signs at intersections
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: Minimal, mostly at Stony Many Summit
Water: Furnace Spring
Highlights: Scenic views, history, spring, cliffs
Directions to Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the parking lot, head east to the white-blazed Appalachian Trail. There will be a trailhead sign and box with interpretive trail guides.
• Mile 0.4 – At the four-way intersection, continue straight onto blue-blazed Stony Man Trail.
• Mile 0.5 – Stony Man Trail forks here into a loop. You can go either way, but these directions assume clockwise. If you’re following the interpretive guide, go counter-clockwise.
• Mile 0.7 – Going clockwise (left), you’ve reached the intersection with Stony Man Summit Trail. Head left 300 feet for the overlook, then walk back and continue on the loop.
• Mile 1.0 – Back at the start of the loop. Turn left to go back toward the AT.
• Mile 1.1 – Back at the four-way intersection, turn left on the north-bound AT.
• Mile 1.8 – Pass Little Stony Man Cliffs.
• Mile 1.9 – Turn left onto Passamaquoddy Trail at the intersection.
• Mile 2.9 – At the end of Passamaquoddy Trail, you’ll pass Furnace Spring on your left, just before the next intersection. At the intersection, take a left onto yellow-blazed Furnace Spring Horse Trail. You’ll pass Furnace Spring again on your left.
• Mile 3.4 – At the intersection with Stony Man Horse Trail, take a left. After 100 feet, you’ll see the parking lot on your right.

Places

• Stony Man Trailhead near Skyland | 38.5930696, -78.3758508
• Stony Man Overlook | 38.6087966, -78.3675734

Maps

• Stony Man Trail Map (KTNP)
• Skyland Area Map (NPS)
• Little Stony Man Closure Area Map

Links

• Guide to SNP: Passamaquoddy Trail

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Stony Man Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.