We were excited for our first hike in Glacier National Park. Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Trail promised a forested boardwalk trail, a stunning gorge, and a glacial lake nestled at the foot of majestic mountains. We hoped it would give us a taste of what Glacier National Park is all about.

To get to Avalanche Lake Trail, you first have to hike Trail of the Cedars, a path through cedar, hemlock, and the cottonwood trees which is primarily on a boardwalk. Combining the two trails forms a 5.9 mile reverse lollipop loop. This sylvan path takes you to Avalanche Gorge, where Avalanche Creek flows through a twisted narrow canyon. Avalanche Lake, a picturesque body of water with towering mountains beyond, is located at the terminus (ish) of the trail. The lake was named in 1895 because a group exploring the area saw and heard many avalanches during their stay.

Hiking is a popular activity in Glacier National Park, so you have to get to the trailhead early to secure a parking spot. Trail of the Cedars is only about a 30 minute drive from Fish Creek Campground, where we were staying, so it seemed like a good bet. Thankfully, there were still spaces left when we arrived in the parking lot around 8:30 a.m. However, visitation has increased in recent years, so you have to arrive even earlier to ensure you get a spot (potentially as early as 6:30 a.m.). A timed-entry system has also been implemented, but the park remains crowded.

We took about 15 minutes to put on sunscreen and get our gear ready. By the time we got started, there were no visible parking spaces left. Coming from the west, there are three parking lots in order: Avalanche Lake Picnic Area (on left), Avalanche Campground (a small lot on the right), and Trail of the Cedars Parking (on the right after crossing Avalanche Creek). Some visitors only do Trail of the Cedars, which is rather short, so you can circle the lot until a space opens up. The park shuttle is another great option, and there is a transfer stop next to the trailhead.

Trail of the Cedars

We walked across Going to the Sun Road, then crossed Avalanche Creek. Trail of the Cedars is a loop – one side starts north of Avalanche Creek, the other to the south. We decided on a whim to start from the north and go clockwise, but either would work. Avalanche Lake Trail intersects Trail of the Cedars around the halfway point.

We started our hike on a boardwalk on Trail of the Cedars, and a good portion of the loop is a boardwalk. Travis loves boardwalks, so he was really in his element. It feels like you’re traveling through a swamp or bog, someplace you wouldn’t normally be able to walk without damaging the terrain or flora.

The trail is wheelchair accessible, easy terrain with a gentle slope up toward the intersection with Avalanche Lake Trail. Trail of the Cedars was one of the first accessible trails completed by the NPS. Originally, other parts of the trail were constructed using gravel and pavement, which deteriorated over time. In 2015, this portion of the trail was reconstructed using sustainable non-asphalt polymer surface.

As we made our way through the dense forest, there was a steady stream of people on the trail, but it still seemed quiet and peaceful. Some trees were marked with signs describing the species, which I always appreciate. Other signs sported an illustration and poem. It took us a few signs to realize that they were all haikus! Honestly, poetry and hiking trails go really well together.

In the quiet night
ambush on the forest floor
the predator dines

Haiku from a sign along Trail of the Cedars

After 0.4 miles, we reached the popular Avalanche Gorge, which Avalanche Creek traverses. The gorge is so beautiful it’s almost indescribable, and you can see why it’s so popular. The translucent bright blue water (which neither words nor photographs can accurately convey) cascades through a narrow canyon. When rocks grind together underneath a glacier, the resulting sediment powder gets suspended in the water. This sediment absorbs and scatters sunlight, creating the distinctive milky blue hue.

Avalanche Lake Trail

Almost immediately after crossing the gorge, we turned left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. The trail ascends slightly as it follows the gorge further upstream. The trail has a steady ascent of over 500 feet for 1.7 miles, and flattens out as you approach Avalanche Lake. More waterfalls appear as you ascend above the creek and past Avalanche Gorge. We took our time exploring and snapping photos before continuing past the gorge. Travis experimented with some long exposures, but he wasn’t happy with the results since he had forgotten his tripod.

The trail follows Avalanche Creek through the woods, then opens to views of the mountains. It’s our first glimpse that truly showcased the glacial valleys and peaks of Glacier National Park. The wooded trail is peaceful and beautiful, but we really felt like we were in Glacier when we saw the mountains.

Shortly before reaching the lake, we passed a short side trail on the right to two outhouses. Several of the longer trails in Glacier have outhouses along the way, which says a lot about the popularity of the park. In crowded parks like Glacier, they are essential for keeping the area clean.

Avalanche Lake

As we arrived at Avalanche Lake, we noticed lots of people milling around along the shoreline. There had been a guided hike earlier in the day, and a park ranger was there answering questions. Even with the crowd, everyone seemed to be respectful and took turns taking photos with the lake and mountain backdrop.

Nestled in a valley, Avalanche Lake has a beautiful light green hue. The logs scattered in the lake are a distinctive feature when compared to other lakes we visited. Unfortunately the sky was fairly hazy, and the lighting wasn’t the best, but we still enjoyed ourselves (how could we not?). Small rodents ran around (don’t feed them!), and we saw some interesting birds.

While most hikers stop once they reach Avalanche Lake, the trail continues to the far side of the lake. So of course, we had to explore a bit more. We were able to get relative solitude in the forested areas as we continued our hike around the lake. Occasional side trails provide beach access. The lake gets deeper toward the south side, and it takes on more of a turquoise color which I think is even more beautiful than the greenish hue in the shallow end.

As we continued on the trail, we heard something coming toward us. Another hiker? Bear? No! A deer was using the trail and coming right toward us. We stopped, and thought about backtracking to a side trail, but there wasn’t one nearby. As it approached us, the deer darted into the woods toward the lake, went around us, jumped back on the trail, and kept going. Problem solved.

At the end of the established trail is a sign, literally saying “End of Trail.” However there’s a clear social trail that continues beyond. We followed it to a beach on the south side of the lake. About a half dozen other people were also enjoying the less populated side of the lake. The view was just as impressive from this side, if not more so. Besides people, there were also a few deer poking around.

We sat down to a packed lunch at the sandy beach. Small streams flowed into the lake, and wildflowers dotted the landscape behind us. It was peaceful and quiet. Another visitor fished (Yellowstone cutthroat trout are native to the lake), and hikers passed by periodically. We spent a good while just relaxing and enjoying the scenery before retracing our steps along the shoreline and back down the trail.

Back to Trail of the Cedars

Above Avalanche Gorge, a sign warns visitors to stay on the trail, as drowning is the top cause of death in the park. We’ve heard of numerous drowning accidents over the years. Two deaths occurred during our trip – and drowning was the cause of one. The rivers and creeks are fast flowing, and can be very cold. So for your own safety, always stay on the trail, and avoid hiking solo if possible.

Travis’s leg was bothering him, so we stopped to rest for a bit, and then slowed down our pace. We made it back to the intersection with Trail of the Cedars. On the way, we took another look at Avalanche Gorge – and found that the harsh afternoon lighting made the area appear washed out. If you want to see Avalanche Gorge, I recommend visiting in the morning for more vibrant hues. However, the lake and mountains were more well-lit in the afternoon light, so hiking up in the morning and back in the afternoon is a good bet.

We then continued clockwise on Trail of the Cedars. Again it was a short and peaceful hike through the woods, but there are fewer boardwalks in this section. We passed a restroom and the Avalanche Campground Amphitheater before returning to our car.

Overall, we both really enjoyed this hike. Travis loved the boardwalk and Avalanche Gorge, and my favorite part was exploring (and just relaxing by) Avalanche Lake. It took us six and a half hours at a super leisurely pace. For a “normal” leisurely pace, we could probably hike it in four and half hours or so. It made for a great first hike in Glacier National Park!

Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop

Date: Sunday, July 21, 2019
Type: Dayhike Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 5.9 miles (9.5 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 735 feet (224 m)
Time: 6.5 hours
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: High
Water: Creeks and lakes
Highlights: Views, wildlife, gorge, water features, boardwalk
Directions to Trailhead: Trail of the Cedars Trailhead
Notes: You can go either way on the Trail of the Cedars Loop

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Trail of the Cedars Trailhead, on the northern side of Avalanche Creek, head clockwise on the trail. It will lead to a boardwalk through cedar, hemlock, and cottonwood forest.
• 0.4 mi – Cross Avalanche Creek. Avalanche Gorge is on your left. About 100 feet further down the trail, turn left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. After another 100 feet, turn left to stay on Avalanche Lake Trail at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail. This section will then ascend over 500 feet to the lake.
• 2.3 mi – You’ve arrived at the northern end (the foot) of Avalanche Lake, where water flows out. Stop to enjoy the beach as well as the lake and mountain views. Two outhouses are located nearby.
• 2.9 mi – The official trail ends, and a social trail continues. A few minutes’ walk takes you to the southern end of the lake (the head), where water flows into the lake. Another small beach is located here as well. Turn around when you want to head back.
• 5.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail to continue on Avalanche Lake Trail. Go 100 feet, then turn left onto Trail of the Cedars. This is the second half of the loop. You’ll pass a restroom and amphitheater along the way.
• 5.9 mi – Back at the trailhead

Maps

• Trail of Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Lake McDonald Valley Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Avalanche Lake Trail (NPS)
• Trail of the Cedars (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Glacier National Park was on our bucket list, and we were both super excited to visit. Due to the popularity of the park, we had to plan a full year in advance. It can be difficult to secure campgrounds, hotels, and backcountry permits, so planning ahead is essential.

Our trip would begin on the west side of the park, and gradually head east over our three-week trip. We planned to spend our first two nights at Fish Creek Campground in Glacier’s Lake McDonald district.

Fish Creek is a large campground with 178 sites, which makes reserving a site a bit easier compared to other campgrounds in the park (like the popular and centrally located Many Glacier Campground). Most sites are released over a six-month rolling basis, except for a few sites, which have a 4-day window. The day we booked, we managed to get the site we wanted (C110) near Lake McDonald.

The campground has four loops – A, B, C, and D. Each loop is a bit different. We chose C loop for its access to Lake McDonald, fairly private sites, and because generators are prohibited. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites seemed less private, particularly on the inner loop. Loops A and B are farther from the lake and have less tree cover. Loop A has the only showers in the entire campground, though you could easily drive over to them. Loop B has more RV spots than other loops, so we avoided that.

Important Note: Grizzly and black bears frequent the area. Bear boxes are available near the restrooms; otherwise keep all food and scented items in your car for your safety and that of wildlife. Park rangers do patrol the area and issue fines for noncompliance.

Arriving at Fish Creek Campground

We flew into Kalispell, then picked up our rental car and supplies before heading into the park. Speaking of which, don’t forget to buy or rent bear spray – we bought ours from a nearby REI. From Kalispell it was around a one hour drive to the campground. On the way, we stopped at the Apgar Backcountry Office to confirm some of our upcoming backpacking permits.

Afterwards, we drove the short distance to Fish Creek Campground and checked in. Our site, C110, is a pull through to a cozy setup with a picnic table and fire ring. A water pump is located close by, and a short path leads to Lake McDonald. Our campsite had plenty of tree cover and it was nice and quiet – we liked it already!

Once we set up our tent, we walked over to Lake McDonald. There were plenty of multicolored rocks on the lakebed, visible through the clear pure water. Nearby, some kids were playing in the lake, but it still seemed so calm and peaceful. It’s the kind of place you could read a book, or simply relax and enjoy the view.

It was dinner time, and we had decided not to cook at our campsite (we were lazy). We drove 6 minutes into the nearby park town of Apgar, and got dinner at Eddie’s Cafe & Mercantile. It was the worst restaurant experience we’ve had in any national park. Our food took forever to arrive, the orders were wrong, and the food just wasn’t good. The attached ice cream shop was decent though, and they had some vegan sorbet options for Kristin. Since we visited, Eddie’s has changed concessionaires and undergone a significant renovation in 2022. It’s larger, and looks more like a traditional lodge. So take our experience with a grain of salt.

After dinner, we walked over to Lake McDonald and enjoyed the view and ambiance. With the gentle waves lapping the lakeshore, and stunning multicolored rocks in Lake McDonald, it was a beautiful spot to relax and eat our ice cream. The area looked even more beautiful in the early evening light. It was so simple, and yet a memorable first night.

The campground was relatively quiet when we returned later that evening, which we appreciated. The air had gotten cooler, but it wasn’t yet “cold.” Even though it was only 9:30 p.m. and still light out, we passed out in our tent. We awoke overnight to the sound of bugling. Probably an elk near the lake, but we didn’t get up to check.

The next day we got up early to hike the nearby Avalanche Lake Trail. Afterward, we drove into Columbia Falls for dinner before returning to camp – again, not worrying about cooking at the campsite. Then we went by the lake and relaxed, took photos, and just enjoyed the campground. We dipped our feet into the lake, which was freezing cold. There’s also an amphitheater at Loop A where the park service holds ranger talks. We had wanted to attend one, but didn’t find the time. But we did stop by for a quick visit, and also check out the only showers in the campground.

Two nights was a short stay at Fish Creek. It’s a great campground, we recommend it and wished we had stayed longer – but we had more places to see in Glacier. Next we’d be heading east, over Logan Pass, all the way to Many Glacier.

Fish Creek Campground | 178 Campsites

Dates Visited: Saturday July 20, 2019 – Monday July 22, 2019
Location: 12 miles from the park’s West Glacier entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling
Dates Open: Mid-May to early September
Prices: $30/night for individual tent campsite
Reservations: 100% of sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. Otherwise, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Access to Lake McDonald, Tree Cover
Best Sites: Loop C due to privacy and Lake McDonald access. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites are not as private. Loops A and B are further from the lake and have less tree cover.
Notes: There are four tent only sites: C120, C121, C122, and D166. Two sites are not suitable for tents: C139 and C143. Generators are prohibited in Loop C. Four sites are hiker/biker only: A11a, A11b, A11c, and A11d.

Places

• Fish Creek Campground | Fish Creek Campground Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936
• Eddie’s Mercantile and Cafe | Apgar Village, 236 Apgar Lp Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936

Maps

• Fish Creek Campground Map (Wikipedia, may be outdated)

Links

• Glacier Campgrounds (NPS)
• Fish Creek Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)

Interactive Map

The post Fish Creek Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Time flies when you’re having fun, and sadly it was the last day of our trip to Canyonlands National Park. We had completed a 4-day backpacking adventure in Salt Creek Canyon, followed by a much needed one-day break. On our last full day in Utah, we decided to check out Chesler Park, a dayhike in the Needles District.

We planned to hike the 10.2 mile lollipop loop called Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail. It features spectacular views and a unique path through a deep and narrow fracture in the sandstone. Chesler Park is a large circular grassland surrounded by needles, a geological feature. Back in the 1960s, it was used for cattle grazing (which thankfully has since ended). While there are many ways to hike Chesler Park, we decided to take the route suggested by the park service.

A quick note about trail names in the Needles – you’ll notice that many are inconsistent if you look at multiple maps. Our map uses trail names based on public NPS GIS data. But the trail signs don’t specify the trail names, and instead have arrows with the destination and mileage (e.g. Elephant Hill in 1.5 mi or Druid Arch in 3.9 mi). For these reasons, we highly recommend carrying a map.

Elephant Hill Trailhead

We woke up tired and sore from our 28-mile backpacking trip, but we had high hopes for the day. The drive to Elephant Hill Trailhead was fairly easy, until we turned onto Elephant Hill Access Road shortly after the Needles Campground. After that, it’s a narrow dirt road with blind curves, so we took it slow. We got to the trailhead around 11 a.m. Chesler Park is a longer hike so I wished we had gotten there earlier, but this was the best we could do on that particular day. Thankfully there were still some parking spots at the main lot. There is also an overflow lot that we passed on the way.

Initially the trail ascends slickrock, and there are some picturesque stone steps. Much of the hike continues along slickrock, and some sections cut through sand. Cryptobiotic soil is also present, so be sure to avoid stepping on it.

We followed cairns as the trail weaved its way south, above Elephant Canyon. Behind us to the north, we spotted the snow capped La Sal Mountains. In the distance we could see the spires and needles that give the area its name.

300 million years ago, ancient seas dried up, leaving behind a layer of salt – which still lies 1000 feet below the surface. As rock eroded, it covered the salt, and the pressure caused the salt to flow. The resulting movement fractured the sandstone on top, creating a grid-like pattern. Over time, further erosion carved the needles as they appear today.

It was sunny and in the 80s, so we ducked behind any rocks we could find. There was a significant temperature difference in the shade compared to the sun. As we hiked, we saw a few lizards scampering around, and wildflowers like Indian paintbrush. After 0.6 miles we continued right on Chesler Park Trail. At this point I was still exhausted from the backpacking trip, but it wore off quickly as I was really enjoying the hike.

The trail ascends slickrock, then cuts through portions of rock. It led us through a narrow crack between two fins. It was shady and cool through there, so we hung out for a bit. We continued straight at the next intersection. Left would have taken us to Druid Arch, and right leads to EC1, a backcountry site.

We were getting closer to the needles, which meant better views. At the next intersection, we turned left to stay on Chesler Park Trail. This portion of the trail only goes for 0.6 miles, and features a moderately strenuous uphill climb with about 400 feet of elevation gain. Looking behind us, we had a view into Elephant Canyon, where we had just hiked, with the La Sals in the distance. A sign marked a “viewpoint.” The trail climbs, peaks, and then descends a sandy trail into Chesler Park itself. To our left, a small unnamed arch peeked out above the fins.

Chesler Park Loop

The slickrock gave way to a grass-covered meadow. This was Chesler Park. Though it seemed a bit out of place, it was beautiful. In the book Canyonlands National Park: Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails, author David Day theorizes that Chesler Park was formed by an ancient sinkhole that was filled with sand. When the salt movement below the surface created the needles, it also created the wide open Chesler Park.

While you can go either way at the intersection to form a 4.9 mile loop around Chesler Park, we chose to turn left and go counterclockwise. A network of trails, including Chesler Park Trail, Joint Trail, Devils Lane Road, and Devils Kitchen Trail, forms the circuit. Our first section, Chesler Park Trail, is narrow, sandy, and surrounded by vegetation and cryptobiotic soil. A few larger trees and bushes are scattered around. Shade is hard to come by, but we found a small tree where we enjoyed a quick lunch break.

Back on the trail, there are several viewpoints out over the needles. We passed two consecutive intersections, the first of which leads to Druid Arch. The next is a spur trail which follows some fins and needles into the heart of Chesler Park. Along this spur are four backcountry campsites: CP2, CP3, CP4, and CP5. (We had passed CP1 earlier, along the loop.)

Joint Trail

Next, Chesler Park Loop Trail transitions to the Joint Trail. Along the way, we noticed another spur trail that leads to a south viewpoint (but decided to skip it due to time constraints). As the trail continued, we arrived in a slickrock section with a sign pointing down a set of stairs, through a crack between fins, geologically known as a joint. While this looks like a slot canyon, it’s technically not (a slot canyon is typically formed through erosion via water). Hence, the Joint Trail.

This section of the hike is what we had most been looking forward to. As we followed the sandy trail, beams of light shone in, illuminating some portions. We scrambled down in a couple of areas, and shuffled through narrower sections. And the joint provided some much-needed respite from the heat. Eventually, the trail opened up to a wider and brighter area. We ran into another couple here, and briefly chatted with them about our travels.

We went a bit further through the joint, and spotted numerous cairns built by hikers. My understanding is that every so often, park rangers will take them down, since they can be misleading. Shortly after, we emerged into the bright sunlight. The joint was a fun experience, and the most memorable part of this hike.

We were back out in the open for the remainder of the hike. For the next 15 minutes, we hiked over sand and slickrock until the Joint Trail merges with a sandy 4WD road, called Joint Trail Road. There’s a picnic table and a latrine at this intersection.

From there, we hiked along Joint Trail Road for 0.5 miles, then turned right onto Devils Road. After another 0.2 miles, we came to a trail on the right that heads back toward Chesler Park. One car drove by while we were hiking, so keep an eye out. While the “trail” in this section is uninteresting, the views from the road are nice.

Back to Chesler Park Trail

Now we were back to hiking across slickrock and among rocky formations. After 25 minutes, we turned right to head east. The trail had more of the same – some light scrambling, cracks through fins, and views of the needles. Eventually, we finished the loop and headed back north to the trailhead. At this point, we were pretty tired, and just wanted to be done.

At around 6 p.m., we made it back to Elephant Hill Trailhead. We were wiped out. And hungry. We drove back to Moab for dinner and some much-needed rest. I wished we were staying closer to the Needles, but I also greatly appreciated the amenities Moab has to offer.

Chesler Park is a popular hike, and now I know why. It gets you up close to the needles and other rock formations, and the joint is particularly unique. The terrain and views are also varied, which creates interest. And there’s a surprising amount of solitude given its popularity.

Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail

Date: Friday, April 19, 2019
Type: Lollipop loop day hike
Total Distance: 10.2 miles (16.4 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2076 feet (634 m)
Time: 7 hours
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low-moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological features including joints, views
Directions to Trailhead: Elephant Hill Trailhead
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water, hat, sunscreen, etc.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – Head south from Elephant Hill Trailhead.
• 1.3 mi – Turn right at the intersection.
• 1.8 mi – Continue straight, passing the EC1 backcountry campsite on your right. You’ll gain 400 feet of elevation in this section.
• 2.4 mi – Continue straight, passing Devils Kitchen Trail on your right.
• 2.6 mi – Arrive at Chesler Park, where the loop begins. Turn left to hike the loop clockwise.
• 3.7 mi – Continue straight, passing a turn-off on the left that heads toward Druid Arch.
• 3.8 mi – Continue straight, passing a turn-off on the right toward backcountry campsites along needles and fins in Chesler Park. Joint Trail begins here (though you won’t enter the actual joint yet).
• 4.5 mi – Enter the joint in the sandstone.
• 5.3 mi – Continue straight onto Joint Trail Road and continue (there’s a port-a-potty here).
• 5.8 mi – Turn right onto Devils Lane Road.
• 6.0 mi – Turn right onto Devils Kitchen Trail.
• 6.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection.
• 7.6 mi – You’ve completed the loop! Turn left to head back toward the trailhead.
• 7.8 mi – Continue straight, passing Devils Kitchen Trail on your left.
• 8.4 mi – Continue straight, passing the EC1 backcountry campsite on your left.
• 8.9 mi – Turn left at the intersection, toward Elephant Hill
• 10.2 mi – Arrive back at the trailhead.

Maps

• Chesler Park Trail Map (KTNP)
• Needles District Map (NPS)

Links

• Chesler Park Loop and Joint Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

In 2018, we enjoyed exploring the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park. But we wished we had been able to visit other areas of the park too. So, the following year, that’s what we did. After researching, we decided on a four day, three night backpacking trip through Salt Creek Canyon in the Needles District.

Salt Creek Trail has a lot of draws and is located in one of the more remote areas of the Needles District. There are reliable water sources, archeological ruins, history, arches, solitude, and more. The area can be hiked via multiple routes, and we decided to do a one-way shuttle hike. Overall, the route we chose was easy to moderate. We planned low mileage days so we could take our time and explore.

Our trip turned out amazing – we loved the history, scenery, and vibe of the area. It was exactly what we were looking for. Unfortunately, we ran into a couple issues along the way (primarily due to our own mistakes). But when backpacking, you have to be prepared for anything. So we rolled with them as best we could, and this post goes into detail, so hopefully it helps someone else. Get ready, this is a long one.

Planning – Route and Campsites

We started our route at the southern border of Canyonlands, at Cathedral Butte in Bears Ears National Monument. There are two options for hiking out – Cave Spring or the Needles Campground. Exiting at Cave Spring makes for a shorter route, but the final 3.5 miles is along a sandy wash. Hiking out at the Needles Campground would mean an additional 1.3 miles, but it affords more views along the slickrock. We decided to finish our trip at Cave Spring, making the total distance 28.2 miles.

Along the route are four designated campsites: SC1, SC2, SC3, and SC4. There’s no dispersed camping until reaching the Salt/Horse Zone (after 14.1 miles). So, for us, it was critical that we got the campsites that we wanted. We wanted SC1 -> SC3 -> Salt/Horse Zone permits. SC2 was our backup to SC1, while SC4 was our backup to SC3. SC1 and SC2 are adjacent, and we had read that SC1 was more private. SC3 was preferable to SC4 because there’s a lot to see between SC1/SC2 and SC3, and we wanted time to explore.

The trail begins at 7,074′ of elevation, and ends at 4,931′. The trail descends initially, and is fairly level for the rest of the trip. The longest day for us would be the last one (day 4), while the other days were fairly low mileage. We decided to hike it south to north, so we would descend, rather than ascend, about 2,000 feet of elevation. About half way along Salt Creek Trail is a side trail to Angel Arch, the largest sandstone arch within Canyonlands NP. So we tacked on an additional 3.2 miles round-trip to see it.

Planning – Permits and Regulations

We were able to reserve the sites online, but the reservation system has changed since then. Starting in 2020, Canyonlands uses recreation.gov, and future blocks of campsites are available on four specific dates throughout the year. For example, on November 10, 2020, the permits for March 10 through June 9, 2021 became available. This makes it easier to grab the sites for your entire trip. (To reserve our campsites, I had to wait until 2am EST, for 3 nights straight, when the permits became available.)

With our permits secured, our next step was booking a shuttle, since this was a one-way hike. We contacted Coyote Shuttle, headquartered in Moab. We reserved our shuttle well in advance, for $300 (the cost now is around $375). Expensive, but worth it, and they were responsive and professional.

Next, it was time to research specific points of interest. We bought books and scoured the internet. Along the trail are numerous ruins, cliff dwellings, pictographs, and artifacts that were created thousands of years ago by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan (also called Anasazi) Native Americans. People lived in the region for roughly 2,000 years, starting as hunter-gatherers, and eventually farming. By 1200 AD, large groups of people lived in what is now Canyonlands, and the society reached its peak. Around 1300 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans left the area and migrated south toward Arizona and New Mexico, possibly due to drought.

Big Ruins, the largest archaeological site in Canyonlands, evokes a sense of grandeur. There are at least 20 structures high on a ledge. The Ancestral Puebloans also lived in what is now Mesa Verde National Park, so they have similarities. There are also smaller features within Salt Creek Canyon that are just as worthwhile. Directions to these landmarks are not always public knowledge, but you can find information about them online or in books with enough time and effort. To protect them, we won’t provide the specific locations of these special places.

A couple important details that are specific to the area: First, there is a small population of black bears in Salt Creek Canyon. In late summer, the bears migrate down from the nearby Abajo Mountains, so bear canisters are required along Salt Creek Canyon from March 15 to November 30 (and highly recommended at other times). This was the first time we needed a canister, and we bought a BearVault BV500, which sufficed for four days with two people. Another important thing to know is that all human waste must be packed out when camping at designated campsites (which includes SC 1-4). When we visited, only toilet paper needed to be packed out, but this changed in 2020.

Day 0 – To Moab

It’s also vital to know that Beef Basin Road, which leads to our trailhead at Cathedral Butte, is a rough dirt road. We expected the weather to be sunny and dry like our first trip to the area. But it rained heavily just before our trip, and it turns out that the road gets muddy and can become impassable after a downpour…so we weren’t sure what Beef Basin Road had in store for us. Other than that, the weather looked nice for our trip in late March – mid 60s to low 70s during the day, and 40s at night.

When we arrived in Moab, we checked into Inca Inn before heading to Coyote Shuttle to pay for the trip. While there, we were told that there was the possibility of snow/ice on the trail. We decided to stop by a local shop and grab some cheap crampons. Fortunately, we didn’t end up needing them, but I’m glad we had them just in case.

Day 1 – To Cathedral Butte

The next day, we woke up early and drove to Canyonlands National Park, Needles District. On the way we stopped at a few places with scenic views or attractions like Newspaper Rock. Once we arrived at the Needles Visitor Center, we got our backcountry camping permits. Since we had reserved an at-large area (Salt/Horse), we were required to pick up our permits from the Visitor Center (so a ranger could give us brief instructions before the trip).

At the visitor center, we also changed our permit to exit at the Needles Campground rather than Cave Spring. We decided we preferred to hike on slickrock instead of the sandy path to Cave Spring. But, we ended up exiting at Cave Spring anyway… we’ll get to that later.

Around 9:45 a.m., we met our shuttle driver, Farland, at the visitor center. We followed her in our car to the Needles Campground, where we parked. Then, we hopped in the jeep for our bumpy ride. Farland was very friendly and engaging. She told us about her past career as a teacher (Kristin is also a teacher), as well as her experiences in the Moab area.

Beef Basin Road goes through Bears Ears National Monument, where Cathedral Butte is located. Initially, the ride wasn’t too bad. We zipped across the dirt road with towering redrock monoliths beside us, and through a large pool of water. The further we went, the worse shape the road was in, until it got pretty muddy. Farland and the jeep were able to handle it all, and we got to the Cathedral Butte trailhead without any issues. She dropped us off at 11:30 a.m., and we thanked her profusely.

The trailhead was at the top of a cliff surrounded by pinyon and juniper. Looking out over Salt Creek Canyon – at 7,074 feet of elevation – gave us a scenic view of where we were heading. It’s intimidating to suddenly be dropped in the middle of nowhere with no transportation, aside from walking. There was some lingering snow around the parking area, as well as one other very muddy truck with chains on its tires.

Day 1 – Cathedral Butte to SC1

Before starting our hike, we checked out the trailhead sign. We signed the register, and found an NPS map describing a challenging marshy section about 2.5 miles into the trail. We snapped a photo of it, just in case. Around noon, we started our descent into Salt Creek. After 4.3 miles, we would reach our campsite.

Over the next 1.5 miles, we descended almost 1000 feet. It wasn’t hard, but the trail was steep and eroded in places. We were glad we were going down and not up! The weather was cool, but we quickly peeled off layers as we moved. There was a bit of scattered snow, but none on the trail. As we got lower, we started seeing cryptobiotic soil – which we made sure to avoid. The views were incredible, and we enjoyed looking back at Cathedral Butte, to see where we had come from.

Eventually, the route descended into a flat area with sagebrush, and then the sandy “bottom” of Upper Salt Creek Canyon. From there, we left Bears Ears National Monument and entered Canyonlands National Park. The vegetation around us started to change again until we were surrounded by tamarisk, rabbitbrush, willows, and other brush and grasses. We went through this section until we came to the marsh mentioned on the map at the trailhead, full of tall scouring reeds.

Initially, the path was easy to follow through the towering reeds. We crossed small streams that flowed through. While the park does have pink ribbons tied around reeds as markers to follow, they were difficult to find. The further in we went, the harder it was to navigate. We had read that hikers should bear right along the path toward the east side of the marsh, and we were able to figure our way through. But I can see the benefit of having the map (from the trailhead) just in case.

We brought binoculars so we could see some of the ruins and cliff dwellings that were further away. The marshy section was where (we think) we got our first glimpse of some granaries high up on a cliff along the east side of the trail.

Eventually, the trail follows a sandstone cliff to the east (our right). The trail is very clear here, and runs right past the first pictograph panel we saw. The panel has four handprints, as well as a small humanoid figure. We couldn’t help stretching out our hands and comparing them to the ones on the wall (without touching them). We wondered who created them and why. How long ago? Interesting thoughts and theories flooded our minds as we speculated.

Shortly after the pictograph is the first reliable water source – Kirk Spring. Water cascades down a sandstone slope and lands in a large pond. It’s very picturesque, but we didn’t linger too long. It’s close enough to our campsite that we would come back to filter later. 150 yards beyond the water source, we encountered the next historical treasure: Kirk’s Cabin.

A small hewn log cabin sits just next to the trail. Built in the 1890s by Renssalaer Lee Kirk, the cabin has stood for over 125 years. Kirk ranched there until 1905, when he abandoned the area because he couldn’t make a living. Scattered around the cabin are remnants of the ranching days: a corral, fences, even an old wagon. The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.

The cabin is open to visitors, so we went in and explored. Small trinkets (and unfortunately, trash left by other hikers) were strewn about. While the cabin is in decent shape considering its age, I imagine it’s seen better days. It’s hard to imagine living here; I’m sure it was a lonely experience.

Just past Kirk’s Cabin is a small trail to the right that leads to two campsites: SC1 and SC2. We were staying at SC1, so we headed back on the spur, where it split to each individual campsite. We assumed SC2 was booked, but we didn’t see anyone else. Our campsite was large, quiet, and private. We set up our camp, ate dinner, and headed to bed.

Day 2 – SC1 to Big Pocket

The next morning we woke up refreshed and excited for the day. There are so many things to see on the next stretch of trail: the All American Man, Four Faces, Squash Patch, Big Ruins, Ring Arch, and numerous other points of interest. We only planned to hike five miles, so we could focus on exploring. But first, we needed to filter some water…which became more of an issue than we anticipated.

On the way out of the campsite, we spotted Kirk Arch across the canyon. It’s difficult to see because there is another rock face behind the opening. We had missed it the day before, but once you know where it is, you can’t miss it. We headed left on Salt Creek Trail, passed Kirk’s Cabin, and backtracked to the pond.

Our water filter of choice is a Sawyer Squeeze. While we’ve used other systems in the past, we’ve found it to have the best balance of utility, weight, and ease of use. We filled up our water pouches at Kirk Spring, attached them to the filter, and squeezed – water should come out the other side into our bottles. But nothing came out. Not worried yet, we backwashed the filter. It still didn’t work. Insert expletive here.

Before our trip, we had picked up supplies at the REI in Grand Junction, Colorado. On a whim we also bought some water purification tablets. We’d never carried or used them before, but we were glad we had them. Without the tablets, we would have needed to boil water, taking away our precious fuel. And we hadn’t even seen another hiker at this point, so borrowing wasn’t an option.

We brought a limited number of tablets, so we had to conserve them as much as possible. Part of that meant allowing the water to warm to “room temperature” before we added the tablets, and calculating how much water to put into each container (we used hydration bladders, which made it easier). And, two new takeaways from the trip: first, test our water filter before leaving, and second, bring purification tablets as a backup.

After figuring out the water situation, we headed north past Kirk’s Cabin, then past the wooden fence built by Kirk himself. The fences are fairly intricate, even though barbed wire was available at the time. About a third of a mile later, we came to our first easily accessible ruins – two small granaries tucked in an alcove – not far from the trail. It’s special to be able to get up close (but not too close) to the ruins. Back on the main trail, we spotted another unnamed arch across the canyon to the west. It’s scenic, yet inaccessible. Sometimes this is also referred to as Kirk Arch.

As we continued on the trail, we spotted signs of wildlife. On the path was hairy scat, most likely from coyotes which frequent the area. Also on this stretch, we saw the most peculiar insects – red and yellow colored hairy ants. They lived in holes on the trail. We later learned that they’re called velvet ants, but are actually a type of wasp! They can sting, but thankfully aren’t aggressive.

Soon after, we came upon the Big Pocket area to our right (east) where we spotted a Great Basin gopher snake in the brush. They aren’t poisonous, but we didn’t know that at the time, so we stayed well away. We knew there were additional ruins in the Big Pocket Area, but we continued on the main trail since there was so much to explore.

Day 2 – Big Ruins, Wedding Ring Arch, Squash Granary

Looking west, we saw Big Ruins about 0.4 miles from the trail. If you know where to look, the ruins are easy to find. Located on a cliff, it’s the largest collection of Ancestral Puebloan Ruins in Canyonlands. This site was one reason I wanted to hike Salt Creek. Most ruins are tucked into a ledge about 70 feet off the ground. To get closer to the ruins, we found a social spur trail immediately after a large diamond shaped rock. As we approached, the ruins slowly came into focus. Black soot covered the ceiling of the ledges, remnants of fires from over 700 years ago.

At our feet were numerous pottery pieces, so many that we had to make sure we didn’t step on any. Previous visitors had placed most of them on rocks to help protect them. The pieces have various patterns and colors, and we promptly tried to find our favorite designs. As always, leave no trace and do not remove any artifacts from the site.

Metate and mano – tools that were used to grind corn – are also in this area. So logically, there were dried corncobs there too. Could these be over 700 years old? At the bottom of the sandstone cliffs are granary ruins, where corn was likely stored so long ago. On the higher ledge with the structures, we spotted more handprints. There’s no way to get to the ledge, so they’re protected. The Ancestral Puebloans likely used ladders, which have long since disappeared, to access the structures. Big Ruins are awe-inspiring and they lived up to my expectations.

After exploring for as long as we could, we returned to the main trail. Far in the distance we saw a peculiar shape – Fisheye Arch. Another nearby arch (which isn’t as visible), is also sometimes referred to as Fisheye Arch. Shortly after, we went about 600 feet off the main trail to check out Wedding Ring Arch.

As we were heading to Wedding Ring Arch, we met the first person we’d seen since starting the trail. We were surprised to learn that he was a day hiker, but we weren’t sure where he started from. He had been looking for the All American Man pictograph. While we didn’t know exactly where it was, we knew it was to the north, so we mentioned that. But he was running out of time, and headed south. If he couldn’t find the pictograph, we started to worry that we wouldn’t be able to either.

Wedding Ring Arch is almost a perfect circle, if you look from the right angle. It’s large, about 200 feet high and 150 feet wide. Like Fisheye Arch, another Wedding Ring Arch is located before Kirk’s Cabin on some maps. But this one looks more like a ring than that one. Once we got some photos, we headed back to the main trail. The path goes through some wide open sagebrush areas, through reeds, and then back into sagebrush. Well worn hiker-made trails weave their way from Salt Creek Trail to our next destination – the Squash Plant Ruins.

Three granary ruins sit below an alcove. There are many granaries in Salt Creek, but what makes these unique is the squash plants growing in front of them. They likely grew from seeds originally planted by the Puebloans over 700 years ago! As far as we know, this is the only area in Salt Creek that has squash plants.

We were lucky to spot an old squash from the previous year, now hollow. How cool is that? Seeing it helped us imagine what it would have been like to live there long ago. More handprints above the granaries round out this special area.

Day 2 – All American Man, Four Faces, SC3

There was still more to see in this section of Salt Creek. Next were two of the most iconic pictographs: the All American Man and Four Faces. But first, we spotted a few ruins high up in a crack on a sandstone cliff. It’s mind-blowing to ponder how they might have been built. Shortly after, we came to the well-known All American Man basically right next to the trail. It’s located in a crevice in the wall, about 10 to 15 feet above the ground, with some ruins behind it. Below we found a canister with a hiker log, which we signed.

The All American Man is aptly named – a six-foot tall round figure, decked out in red, white, and blue, along with a narrow head and strange antennae. There is even what appears to be an American flag (but of course, it isn’t) near the figure’s “waist.” It’s vivid and spectacular. The blue color is actually gray, but it appears blue in the dim light and among the surrounding red sandstone. At some point, a visitor outlined the pictograph with white chalk – a practice that has damaged many petroglyphs and pictographs. Please treat all ruins with respect, and follow leave no trace.

The trail briefly veers to the west after the All American Man and goes through a crack in the sandstone. While it was probably unnecessary for the trail to go this way, it does make for an interesting scramble. Afterward, we made our way through dense reeds and other thick vegetation. About 30 minutes past the All American Man, we arrived at some ruins and the next pictograph – the Four Faces.

Most of the ruins in Canyonlands are from the Ancestral Puebloan culture, but Four Faces was created by the Fremont people. The two groups are distinct, and they overlapped in the area. The Four Faces is well preserved, considering it’s over 700 years old. The red colors are vivid, and it looks like it could have been painted yesterday. There are other “face” pictographs in Canyonlands, but most are in poorer condition. One of the nearby ruins was likely a kiln or hearth, as it’s blackened with soot inside.

Four Faces Spring, which would be our next water source, is located near the pictograph. The spring is also only a short walk from SC3 campsite. There, we met the second person that we’d seen so far. He was doing a through hike on The Hayduke Trail, which goes from Arches National Park through much of Southern Utah, then into Northern Arizona before ending in Zion National Park. An alternate route goes through Salt Creek. As we talked, we started feeling a bit uncomfortable with some things he was discussing. Then, he asked to stay in our campsite, and we realized that he likely did not have any permits. We’re usually pretty flexible, but due to some odd vibes we declined.

Continuing, we crossed Salt Creek and walked another 0.2 miles to reach SC3, our campsite for the night. The site is nice and big, and more open than SC1. Once we set up camp, I headed back to Four Faces Spring to get some water.

I peered into the pond and was surprised to see some large salamanders. These were Tiger Salamanders, the only species of salamander in the park. As I was taking this in, a small bat flew over the surface of the pond looking for insects. There’s so much wildlife here! I only had my cell phone on me on, so the pictures aren’t great. I headed back to camp for dinner. I tried out a GOOD TO-GO Bibimbap meal – it was not very good, which was disappointing since we’ve liked the brand’s other meals.

Day 3 – SC3 to Angel Arch Camp

We started early on day 3. Our plan was to hike 5.3 miles to a dispersed campsite, then head down a side trail to check out Angel Arch. The hike started out in sagebrush and led us to some geometric rock art, before reaching Upper Jump. This is a small waterfall, and would be a good place to get water if we had needed it. The creek bed then drops about 25 feet, and the trail gets greener, wetter, and narrower. We soon found ourselves surrounded by rabbitbrush, willows, and other vegetation. It was a welcome change.

For the next 2.3 miles or so after Upper Jump, we saw lots of trees and crossed numerous streams. The National Park Service has constructed simple wooden bridges across most of the streams. Cottonwood leaves crunched under our feet. Eventually, the trail rose above Salt Creek Canyon. We spotted rock art known as the Paper Dolls, since it looks like a string of figures holding hands. Shortly after, the trail took us back down into the canyon.

We neared the SC4 campsite and decided to check it out and take a short break. It’s a nice large site, with plenty of shade, privacy, and logs to sit on (always important!). Past SC4, the trail becomes harder to navigate, but it follows Salt Creek (more or less) as it winds its way north. About an hour and a half after SC4, we arrived at the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Angel Arch would have to wait, as we wanted to set up camp first.

After this intersection, the trail crosses into the Salt/Horse backpacking zone. This area allows for dispersed camping (best practice is to select a previously established site). We continued north on Salt Creek Trail, and in 0.2 miles we reached the area where we would camp. Formerly known as Angel Arch Camp, it’s an open area that features large cottonwood trees…or at least it did until a wildfire in 2016. According to some forums, the fire may have been caused by humans, but I never found a reliable source. It’s still a nice area to camp, but I imagine it used to be even better with the shade and privacy of the trees. As a reminder, campfires are not permitted in the backcountry.

– A brief historical interlude –

Incredibly, Salt Creek Trail north of the Angel Arch intersection, as well as the trail to Angel Arch, used to be open to motor vehicles. In 1998, the trail was closed by the NPS to protect the habitat and archaeological resources. After years of litigation, the trail has remained closed. It’s almost unthinkable for vehicles to drive through a riparian area which is so important to the delicate ecosystem.

While I’m glad 4WD vehicles are no longer in this part of Salt Creek, we found signs of past use, like scratches on rocks and abnormally wide trails. That said, the area has recovered quite well. Wildlife, like black bears, has started to repopulate the area (mainly in a late-summer migration from the Abajo Mountains). Some vehicle tracks have been overgrown with vegetation. Salt Creek itself has began to run clear, and riparian vegetation has increased.

Day 3 – Angel Arch Trail

After setting up our campsite, we headed back south to the Angel Arch Trail intersection. The trail goes 1.6 miles before reaching the arch. Initially, it was easy to follow, and we found some ruins and pictographs on a nearby cliff. The further we went, the wetter and more difficult to navigate it became.

Curiously, some maps have this trail incorrectly labeled as “Abbey’s Triple Arch Trail,” assumedly dedicated to Edward Abbey. Abbey’s Triple Arch is actually located in The Maze district.

Eventually we spotted Angel Arch. Morning lighting would have been better, since the sun is behind the arch in the afternoon, but this was the only time we’d have to see the arch. Cairns guided us up slickrock, to a rock formation known as “the molar.” It supposedly resembles a tooth, though it looked more like a heart to us.

Behind the molar stands Angel Arch. Its size, unique shape, and remoteness make it impressive. Originally, the formation was named Pegasus Arch until 1963, when it was officially named Angel Arch. There is supposedly a cairned 1.5 mile (round trip) trail that leads to the base of the arch, but we didn’t have the time or energy to do it. Thankfully the sky was a bit cloudy, which helped us get some decent photos.

We had brought our cooking gear with us, so we made dinner and ate while enjoying a view of the arch. It’s a great memory – just the two of us, relaxing and enjoying the beautiful scenery. Next, we headed back the way we came until we reached our campsite. We fell asleep to the gentle, and thankfully brief, rain that fell on our tent.

Day 4 – Angel Arch Camp to Peekaboo

The next morning we woke up to slightly damp ground. It felt cold and dreary initially, but the weather warmed up as the day went on. For the most part, the trail followed Salt Creek, which had places where we could have filtered water if we needed it. The trail opened up into wide, flat sandstone, which was beautiful and fun to hike. The Salt/Horse Zone allows for dispersed camping, and we stumbled upon a few established campsites (see Google Map below). About 1.1 miles beyond Angel Arch Camp, the trail passes right by Crescent Arch, high in the sandstone.

This was also the section where we started running into more people, since it’s possible to day hike here from the Needles Campground. First, we ran into some backpackers who were heading south. As we talked, we learned they were from the DC area too. They had a wide range of campsite permits that had taken them from Lost Canyon into Salt Creek. They mentioned that Peekaboo Trail was particularly scary. We didn’t think anything of the warning at the time, but knew we would be on that trail shortly.

One of the last major pictographs along the trail, the Flying Carpet Panel, is shortly before Peekaboo Arch. We managed to find a spur trail that led to the panel. Unlike earlier pictographs such as the All American Man or Four Faces, this panel is Barrier Canyon style. Another example of this style is The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon. The Flying Carpet Panel features several figures of varying sizes, and neat red handprints. It’s an impressive collection of pictographs.

After hiking about 6.5 miles from Angel Arch Camp, we reached Peekaboo Arch. It’s very unique and looks almost like it was punched out of a fin. The trail goes right through the arch. Formerly, it looped around the entire fin, but that’s no longer the “official” trail. Which is nice, since going through saves about half a mile.

We hiked up the slickrock and passed through the arch. We turned immediately left to admire a well known pictograph next to the opening of the arch. It was created by the Fremont Native Americans. If you look closely, you can see that it was painted over faint red artwork that is even older. Handprints are also nearby. There were a few people here, which was unsurprising since the area is accessible from the Needles Campground.

Looking down, we spotted Peekaboo Camp, a designated campsite. The 4WD road to Peekaboo Camp is only open a few weeks throughout the year based on weather and driving conditions, but we didn’t see any cars nearby, and no one seemed to be camping at Peekaboo that day. We had read about the nearby Peekaboo Spring but weren’t able to find it, but there did seem to be pools of water right before the arch.

Day 4 – Peekaboo Trail

After this point, Salt Creek Road heads north to Cave Spring Trailhead, where we originally planned to end our hike. When we picked up our permit, we had switched our point of exit to the Needles Campground (previously known as Squaw Flat Campground), since we thought hiking on slickrock would be preferable to sand. So instead of heading north, we hiked west from Peekaboo Campsite, onto Peekaboo Trail. The trail ascends onto benches – areas with vertical rock both above and below. The 4.7 mile trail is primarily on slickrock until you reach the campground.

Our first obstacle was a ladder in a crack between fins. Climbing it was a lot of fun, even though our backpacks were a tight fit. Once on top, we spotted a small ruin nearby. As we followed the cairns along the slickrock, the views became more and more impressive. We scrambled up to the benches and ledges above the canyon. At one point, we climbed through a small window in the sandstone.

We continued until we got to an area that seemed sketchy, and recalled the backpackers who told us about this earlier in the day. The narrow, sloped sandstone goes for about 10-15 feet, and has a sheer drop-off. As I started to go across it, my foot slipped. I caught myself and backed up. By this point we were looking around, trying to figure out if this was even the right spot, and were a bit freaked out.

We decided not to risk it and backtracked out of Peekaboo Trail. Our only other option was to hike out to Cave Spring. The trail to Cave Spring is shorter than the hike to the Needles Campground – but our car was parked in the campground. We would need to walk an additional 3.6 miles along the road to reach our car.

Looking at photos of Peekaboo Trail, that narrow area doesn’t look so bad. But I still think we made the right choice for our safety. When hiking and backpacking, it’s vital to trust your instincts and know your limits. Online, it looks like other hikers get past that section just fine, though some blogs mention that it’s scary (a chain or bar would help). Someday, we intend to go back and take another look.

Day 4 – Peekaboo to Cave Spring Trailhead

We headed back toward Peekaboo Campground, our emotions still running pretty high. It was going to be a very long day, so we had to move at a good pace. From there, we went north on Salt Creek Road. It’s flat and obviously used by vehicles. It’s also a huge pain to hike because it’s covered in sand.

I tried to keep a steady pace ahead of Kristin to keep us going. Eventually I tired out, and she took over the lead. The setting sun blazed into our eyes as we tried to find areas with firmer ground. There’s nothing special about the road, but we were more focused on getting out of there than sight-seeing. After 3.4 miles (which seemed like an eternity) we reached the Cave Spring Trailhead.

From there, we hiked an additional 3.6 miles to the campground along a paved road. Once we got back to our car, we were exhausted and it was late. We had hiked around 16 miles that day. We drove back to Moab, grabbed some fast food (from the golden arches), and crashed at our hotel for the night.

The End?

Overall, the trip was an amazing adventure (in spite of our issues with the water filter and Peekaboo Trail). It was one of my favorite trips we’ve ever done, particularly because of the archaeological features. Pictographs like the All American Man and Four Faces are iconic sites that are forever burned into my memory. It was worth all the time it took to plan the route, campsites, and shuttle.

We wish Peekaboo Trail had worked out for us. It’s far more scenic than Salt Creek Road to Cave Spring. The parts of Peekaboo we hiked provided sweeping views, and it was very different compared with the first three days of our trip. If you’re feeling brave, I recommend exiting at the Needles Campground. If you want to play it safe, exit at Cave Spring. A compromise could include a short hike to Peekaboo Trail to see the views and sandstone rims, then exit at Cave Spring.

There’s still more to see in Salt Creek (and the rest of the Needles district). Salt Creek has many side canyons, arches, and other geological features. There are more ruins, pictographs, and petroglyphs out there to find. Someday we plan to go back and explore even more. Until then, I hope this special place stays protected for everyone that visits in the future.

Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (Cathedral Butte to Cave Spring)

Date: Sunday, April 14, 2019 – Wednesday, April 17, 2019
Type: 3-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 28.2 miles (45.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +1093 feet (333 m), -3240 feet (988 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 142 feet (43 m) gain, 1301 feet (397 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC1
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 289 feet (88 m) gain, 555 feet (169 m) loss
  • Time: 8 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC3
• Day 3:
  • Distance: 8.9 miles (14.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 494 feet (151 m) gain, 770 feet (235 m) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring (not including the hour we spent at Angel Arch)
  • Overnight: Salt/Horse Zone (Angel Arch Camp)
• Day 4 (assumes exiting at Cave Spring):
  • Distance: 9.9 miles (15.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 168 feet (51 m) gain, 614 feet (187 m) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring

Trail Markings: Cairns, pink ribbons through the marshy area on the first day
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, small waterfalls, ponds
Highlights: Views, archaeological sites, wildlife, history, waterfalls, geological features
Directions to Cathedral Butte Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: Alternately, you could go the opposite direction, but we highly recommend south to north.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Cathedral Butte Trailhead, go north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 3.9 mi – Pass Kirk Spring on the left, a reliable water source.
• 4.0 mi – Pass Kirk’s Cabin on the right.
• 4.1 mi – Turn right onto the spur to SC1 and SC2. The spur then splits to each individual campsite.
• 4.3 mi – Arrive at SC1/SC2. In the morning, retrace your steps back to Salt Creek Trail.
• 4.4 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail, heading north.
• 6.3 mi – Wedding Ring Arch is nearby. Find a social trail that avoids cryptobiotic soil if you’d like to get closer.
• 8.2 mi – The trail passes close by the All American Man Pictograph.
• 8.8 mi – Cross over Salt Creek, and Four Faces Spring, another great place for water. Right before the spring is the Four Faces Pictograph and ruins.
• 9.4 mi – A small spur trail leads to the SC3 campsite. Stay the night, then continue north on Salt Creek Trail in the morning.
• 12.5 mi – Pass by the spur trail to the SC4 campsite.
• 14.4 mi – You’ve reached the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 14.6 mi – Reach Angel Arch Camp. You can set up your tent here, or wherever you prefer since this is part of the Salt/Horse Dispersed Camping Zone. Just remember, the best site is found, not created. After setting up camp, head back south to the Angel Arch intersection.
• 14.9 mi – Turn left onto Angel Arch Trail.
• 16.5 mi – You’ve arrived at the Molar and Angel Arch. Enjoy! If desired, take the social trail (some scrambling required) to the base of the arch. Head back along Angel Arch Trail when ready.
• 18.1 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail.
• 18.3 mi – Arrive back at your campsite. In the morning, continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 24.8 mi – You’ve arrived at Peekaboo Arch. Continue on the trail, and go through the arch in the fin. Peekaboo Camp, as well as some petroglyphs, are on the other side. Hike through the camp, and continue north on Salt Creek Road.
• 28.2 mi – Salt Creek Road ends at Cave Spring Trailhead, where hopefully you have a car waiting for you. You’re done!

Places

• Cathedral Butte | 37.952721, -109.698471
• Cave Spring | 38.149672, -109.755018
• The Needles Campground | 38.149594, -109.792086
• Kirk Spring | 37.983303, -109.745977
• Kirk Cabin | 37.985556, -109.743722
• SC1 Campsite | 37.98435, -109.74228
• SC2 Campsite | 37.98604, -109.74163
• Wedding Ring Arch | 38.01104, -109.74082
• Four Faces Spring | 38.03934, -109.76152
• SC3 Campsite | 38.03909, -109.76403
• Upper Jump | 38.043318, -109.764622
• SC4 Campsite | 38.055420, -109.770040
• Angel Arch Camp | 38.069867, -109.766616
• Angel Arch | 38.05203, -109.75681
• Peekaboo Camp | 38.114878, -109.754435

Maps

• Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (KTNP)
• The Needles District (NPS)
• The Needles Backcountry Zone Map (NPS)

Links

• NPS
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Permits (recreation.gov)
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Regulations (NPS)
  • Salt Creek Archaeology (NPS)
  • American Indians in Canyonlands (NPS)
• History of Trail
  • NPS Action and History on Salt Creek Canyon Road in 2004 (federalregister.gov)
  • NPS Environmental Assessment : Middle Salt Creek Canyon Access Plan from 2002 (Utah State University)

Planning Resources

• Salt Creek Canyon Trail (UtahTrails)
• Coyote Shuttle
• Books
  • Canyonlands National Park Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails by David Day
  • Hiking, Biking and Exploring Canyonlands National Park and Vicinity by Michael Kelsey

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Our last hike in Canyonlands National Park would be one to remember. We only had the morning, since we planned to drive to Grand Junction, CO that afternoon. Our trail was a 1.6 mile out and back to False Kiva, an archaeological site tucked away in an alcove. It turned out to be our favorite hike (so far) in the Island in the Sky District.

A kiva is a large, circular, underground room. They were used by the Puebloans, the native people of that region, for religious purposes. The round structure found at the end of this hike is not a true kiva, since there is no underground area. There is some uncertainty surrounding its exact origins and intended purpose. True kivas can be seen at Mesa Verde National Park or Bandelier National Monument.

We hesitated to write a post about False Kiva because it is a Class II archaeological site. The trail does not appear on park maps in order to limit access, since the site is more vulnerable to visitor impacts. Interestingly, it used to be on AllTrails, but was removed in 2021. However, if you ask a Park Ranger, they’ll tell you how to find the trail.

We visited in March 2018 (yes, we are slow at blogging – good thing we took copious notes). Back then, the site was fully explorable. But in August of 2018, the alcove site was vandalized and closed indefinitely. You can still hike the trail, but a chain blocks entry into the alcove itself. The “kiva” is now inaccessible, but you can see it from a distance. The vandalism is very unfortunate, especially given how much we enjoyed the trail and archeological site.

The Trail

It takes some effort to find the trailhead. Asking a park ranger is the easiest and safest way. When we stopped to ask about the trail at Island in the Sky Visitor Center, the ranger brought out a laminated sheet with information on the location and points of interest along the trail.

From the visitor center, we drove west toward Upheaval Dome. Our parking was a small pull-off with just enough space. From there, we crossed the road and headed south. Some juniper logs were lined up along the edge, near a bend in the road. Behind the logs, a well worn trail begins.

We didn’t see anyone else heading onto the trail, but near the start we did meet a group that was coming back from the kiva. So we knew we were on the right track. While the trail isn’t heavily travelled, it was easy for us to follow. Initially, it goes through an area with various shrubs, like blackbrush, and juniper in the distance. Far out, we could see into a canyon called Upper West Basin, and beyond. A prominent rock formation stood ahead of us – I never figured out its name.

The dirt trail beat its way through the desert. Eventually, we started following cairns that guided us through the rocky sections. Along the way, we spotted a few lizards, which we always enjoy seeing. Before long, we reached the edge of the rim and looked out across the canyon. It was a gorgeous view, with Candlestick Tower on our left. The unknown rock formation we had seen earlier was on our right.

The trail started descending down a rocky slope. Based on the photo the park ranger had shown us, we knew we were getting close to the kiva. Looking around, we kept trying to find the alcove in advance. It’s surprisingly well hidden. Once we reached the bottom of the slope, the trail wound its way across a narrow rocky shelf. Eventually, the trail curved sharply to the right, almost doubling back on itself. This brought us closer to the large rock wall that had been to our right since we had descended. We had views out into the canyons the whole way.

False Kiva

Suddenly, after scrambling up a small sandstone incline, we were there! Thankfully, we had the place to ourselves. We had only passed one other group on the way, and it was so peaceful and quiet. We took photos and enjoyed the gorgeous scenery.

The area is known for a famous view of the Kiva in the foreground, and the canyons in the background. Lighting for photography was just okay in the morning; afternoon lighting would probably be better. But we’re glad we got to see it while we could. With the kiva alcove being indefinitely closed to visitors, this view is no longer possible.

Admiring the carefully stacked stones of the kiva, we speculated on its history. It would have been great to learn more about the people who created it and what the site was used for. A small area, which contained some archeological digging, was roped off. A green ammo box held some information, as well as a visitor log. Flipping through it, we saw the breadth of people who had visited from all over the world. We added our names to the list.

Eventually, other hikers arrived, and we deemed it best to let them enjoy the site in peace. So we headed back the way we came. Overall, the trail is moderate, but the ascent up the rocky slope was the most difficult part for us. At the trailhead, we met a third group that was heading for the kiva.

False Kiva is a beautiful and special place, and we’re saddened that we may not be able to visit again. But, even if you can’t get as close to the kiva, it’s still a worthwhile experience. If you visit, please treat it with respect, follow all signs and restrictions, and enjoy this remarkable place.

False Kiva Trail

Date: Friday, March 30, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 715 feet (218 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including spending about 30 minutes at False Kiva
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and an obvious social trail. Even though this is not a maintained trail, it’s easy to follow.
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins, Off the beaten path
Directions to Trailhead: Ask a park ranger
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Links

• False Kiva (Wikipedia)
• Candlestick Tower (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

The post False Kiva Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

One trail we wanted to hike in Canyonlands National Park was the Syncline Loop. It’s an 8.3 mile route that surrounds Upheaval Dome in the Island in the Sky District. The trail is long and difficult, so unfortunately we didn’t have the time to do the hike. Instead, we decided to do Upheaval Dome Trail, a short 1.6 mile out and back hike. The path goes to two overlooks with views of Upheaval Dome. We hoped it would give us a glimpse of what the Syncline Loop would offer.

What is Upheaval Dome? I’m glad you asked. It’s an area roughly three miles across where the rock layers are deformed. In the center, the rocks are pushed up into a dome-like structure (an anticline). A downward fold in the rock (or syncline) surrounds the dome. What caused it? No one is quite sure, but there are two prevailing theories. The first is that it is an impact crater caused by a meteorite hitting the Earth. The second is that it’s a salt dome, where salt flows while under pressure and creates deformities in the surrounding rock over millions of years. Most recent research supports the impact crater hypothesis.

First Overlook

After checking out Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte, we drove to the end of Upheaval Dome Road. We parked in the lot for Upheaval Dome and the Syncline Loop. The trail begins on the west side of the lot. After starting the hike, we came to an intersection with Syncline Loop Trail almost immediately. It would have to wait for another time, so we kept going straight on Upheaval Dome Trail.

The trail started to ascend. The first overlook is only 0.3 miles from the intersection, so it took no time at all to get there. Situated on a large sandstone rock face, the first overlook gave us an initial view of the dome.

Greenish rocks surround a red rock formation inside the crater. We later talked to a ranger who said the green color was caused by iron, while the red is due to oxidation (rust). It looks otherworldly, but also familiar. A nearby sign gives some geological information about Upheaval Dome. Even though there are only two official “overlooks,” there are plenty of other opportunities for views into Upheaval Dome.

Second Overlook

Following rock cairns along the trail, we ascended and descended over more sandstone. The second overlook is only half a mile from the first. In places, small steps had been cut into some sandstone to assist hikers. We admonished a small boy who was rolling rocks down the sandstone. Normally, we might not say anything, but…it seemed pretty dangerous.

Surrounded by metal fencing, the second overlook was much like the first. It didn’t offer a radically different view. So if time is short, you could skip the second overlook. Nearby I found some spring wildflowers, including Indian paintbrush, which I was more interested in.

While I’m glad we did Upheaval Dome, I wasn’t particularly impressed with the hike overall. It was very cool to see the dome initially, but the hike got kind of same-y after the first overlook. The views are interesting, and I did enjoy the geology and mystery of its formation. Even though I wasn’t wowed by this trail, I’d still like to go back to do the Syncline Loop someday…maybe as a one-night backpacking trip!

Upheaval Dome Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 462 feet (141 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: Moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History
Directions to Upheaval Dome Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head north toward the Upheaval Dome Trailhead. Start on the trail, and after 250 feet, continue straight at the intersection with the Syncline Trail to continue on the Upheaval Dome Trail.
• 0.3 mi – A short (~180 feet) side trail to the right leads to the first overlook. After checking it out, head back the way you came and turn right to continue.
• 0.9 mi – At the end of the trail is the second overlook. When ready, turn around and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – The hike is finished!

Places

• Upheaval Dome | 38.437492, -109.928600
• First Overlook | 38.428919, -109.929169
• Second Overlook | 38.431669, -109.935347

Maps

• Upheaval Dome Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Upheaval Dome (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Upheaval Dome Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

A butte is a striking rock formation, defined as an isolated steep hill with often vertical sides and a flat top. It was time for us to hike to one in Canyonlands National Park. Aztec Butte is a 1.6-mile out and back that leads to the top of a butte, with a side trail to see some Puebloan ruins. We were particularly looking forward to the archeological features of the area. The drive to the Aztec Butte trailhead was only about a mile from Mesa Arch Trail, which we had just hiked.

The parking lot was fairly empty, especially compared to Mesa Arch, so we anticipated more solitude. The trail is rocky at the start, before giving way to a sandy path. After a short 0.3 miles, we reached the first intersection. Taking a right would lead us directly to Aztec Butte, but we turned left toward the Puebloan granary ruins on a separate, smaller butte. The trail took us up some slickrock, and gave us a view into Taylor Canyon in the distance. Rock cairns guided us to the granaries, which are sheltered by a rock ledge.

Alongside the ruins are some informative park signs. We learned that Ancestral Puebloans stored pots and baskets containing food, water, and seeds to be protected in the granary. We explored and took some photos. Built between 1200 and 1300 AD, the two granaries we saw seem to be well preserved. On a side note, please remember not to touch or enter them.

After checking out the granaries, we retraced our steps and continued on the main trail. At the base of Aztec Butte, we were greeted by a steep 200 foot ascent. The sandstone is beautiful, with striations in shades of red, white, and brown. It was totally exposed to the sun as we climbed, but it’s a short and enjoyable route with some scenic views.

A vaguely defined trail loops around the top of Aztec Butte. Along the loop are other structures. Some might be authentic, but others may have been constructed more recently – we didn’t see any signs at the top to explain the history, though. For example, a four-walled stone structure sits at the southeast corner of the butte.

There are other ruins scattered around the butte, but some are harder to find than others. We didn’t know it at the time, but there are granaries just below the west ridge of the butte. After exploring more, we headed back the way we came. We pondered why the site is called Aztec Butte, and thought it might be a misnomer, but we haven’t been able find a source explaining its name.

Both Aztec Butte and Mesa Arch are fun hikes with sweeping views, though they are very different. We preferred Aztec Butte Trail since it’s a longer hike with fewer crowds and a rich history. And as a bonus, we kept joking about how “butte-iful” the area is.

Aztec Butte Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 283 feet (86 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: A few other groups
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head east on Aztec Butte Trail.
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection, turn left toward the Puebloan Granaries.
• 0.4 mi – Arrive at the granaries. Explore, then head back the way you came.
• 0.6 mi – Back at the intersection, turn left toward Aztec Butte. You’ll ascend about 190 feet to the top.
• 0.8 mi – Arrive at the top of Aztec Butte. Head either way on the vaguely defined loop trail.
• 1.0 mi – Back at the start of the loop. Go back the way you came to descend.
• 1.3 mi – At the intersection with the granaries, go straight back toward the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Aztec Butte | 38.397298, -109.874844

Maps

• Aztec Butte Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Aztec Butte Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Aztec Butte Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

After setting up our tent at Willow Flat Campground in Canyonlands National Park, it was time to go hiking! We were in Island in the Sky, the most easily accessible district of the park. The two closest hikes to the campground are Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte. We planned to hike both, and we started with Mesa Arch Trail.

If you’ve ever seen a photo of Canyonlands, odds are it was of Mesa Arch. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the park. The arch is situated on the edge of a cliff, with a view of canyons, mountains, and other rock formations beyond. It’s also a popular place for sunrise photos – time it right and you can frame the sun as it rises through the arch. We weren’t too concerned about getting a sunrise shot, but we still got there early in the morning.

We found a parking spot, and started down the dusty trail. The route is an easy 0.7 mile loop, and it was crowded. Almost immediately, the canyons and snow-capped La Sal Mountains became visible in the distance. We passed several small signs with information about various native plants. I enjoy seeing these on trails, since it helps me learn more about the flora in the area.

Mesa Arch

After 10-15 minutes of hiking, we arrived at the 27 foot long Mesa Arch. It features a wide scenic view into Buck Canyon. I think the arches in Arches National Park are more picturesque (who would’ve thought?), though the view here is striking. From the canyon to the rock formations to the La Sal Mountains, there are so many sights to take in. Mesa Arch frames the canyon landscape beautifully. If you look closely toward the east from Mesa Arch, you can also see Washer Woman Arch.

There was a crowd of people waiting to take a picture with the arch, so we got in line. Unfortunately, there were a few people who didn’t seem to care about the line, and they just walked up to the arch and got their photos. We weren’t too surprised. It’s more likely that you’ll run into visitors who are unfamiliar with hiking etiquette on easy, short, popular trails. This was completely different from the experience we had at the challenging 3.2 mile trail to Delicate Arch.

Mesa Arch is a “pothole arch” that formed when water on the ground pooled near sandstone, slowly eroding it until it formed a hole. This arch looks different from most of the ones found in Arches NP because those are primarily formed from sandstone fins (there are many fins in Arches NP, but significantly fewer in Canyonlands).

After we finally got our photo with Mesa Arch, we walked around and admired the scenery before continuing on. After a short walk, which included some stone steps and more plant signs, we completed the loop and returned to the parking lot. Near the end, we could see our next destination in the distance: Aztec Butte. While Mesa Arch was a must-see for us, we don’t consider it one of the best hikes in the park. And after hiking it, we were ready for a longer and more challenging hike, with more solitude.

Mesa Arch Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Loop day hike
Total Distance: 0.7 miles (1.1 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 94 feet (29 m)
Time: 1 hour, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A lot. Everywhere.
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, Plants
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – At the trailhead, go counterclockwise (right path). You could go either direction on the loop though.
• 0.3 mi – Arrive at Mesa Arch, then continue back on the trail to complete the loop.
• 0.7 mi – Arrive back at the parking lot

Places

• Mesa Arch | 38.3885673, -109.8668391
• Washer Woman Arch | 38.388989, -109.837127

Maps

• Isle in the Sky Map (NPS)

Links

• Mesa Arch (NPS)
• Washer Woman Arch (Wikipedia)
• Airport Tower (Wikipedia)
• Monster Tower (Wikipedia)

Interactive Map

The post Mesa Arch Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

It was our intention to backpack in Island in the Sky. But we looked for backcountry campsites too late, and most of the good ones were already taken. Also, once in the park, we decided we’d rather explore a bit before jumping into backpacking. With that in mind, we wanted to stay one night at Willow Flat.

Island in the Sky…that is what we are

After driving into the park, we made a quick stop at the Visitor Center in hopes that a backcountry site had opened up. Unfortunately (but not unexpectedly), none had, so we headed to Willow Flat. It’s a small first-come, first-served campground, with only 12 sites. We usually reserve campsites ahead of time, but this time, we winged it (though we made sure to arrive early). And…it turned out fine. There were 3-4 sites available when we got there at 10:20 am.

We grabbed site 8 for only $15/night. Thankfully we had some cash on us. Each campsite has the usual amenities – fire pit and picnic table – as well as a nice ramada which provided some shade. You can’t go wrong with any campsite, but it’s worth noting that site 6 is accessible (ADA) and reserved at all times for people with disabilities only.

Willow Flat has few amenities. There’s no water available, but the nearby visitor center does have potable water. We brought plastic water jugs just in case too. The campground has two pit toilets, and thankfully they were clean. While setting up our tent, we noted how scenic the campground is. Afterward, we headed out to hike. 

Later that day, we relaxed at our site and enjoyed the surrounding beauty. We didn’t have any firewood to cook dinner (you’ll need to bring your own, as it’s not sold in the campground), so we relied on some dehydrated meals we had brought for backpacking. After dinner, we headed a short distance down the road to Green River Overlook. The view from the overlook is spectacular, and I recommend it even if you’re not staying at the campground.

Back at our campsite, we got ready for bed. The campground was so quiet and peaceful. In the morning, we scavenged for breakfast, and then packed up. At this point, the campground was full – some other visitors arrived and asked if they could take our spot. I guess we got lucky the previous day. Even though we only stayed one night in Willow Flat, we really enjoyed it and would have loved to stay longer. It’s a perfect place for exploring the park. And it certainly beat driving in from Moab every day.

Willow Flat Campground | 12 Campsites

Date Visited: March 29, 2018
Location: 10 miles from the park’s main entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities:  Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Ramada | Vault Toilets | Trash and Recycling (Note: Firewood is NOT sold here)
Dates Open: Year Round (Most popular spring through fall)
Prices: $15/night for individual tent campsite (bring cash or check). You can also pay with credit card at the visitor center, if open.
Reservations: None. All sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Views, Located in the Park
Best Sites: You can’t go wrong with any site.
Notes: No potable water. Check-out time is 10:00 am. Campsite #6 is ADA and reserved at all times for people with disabilities only.

Places

• Willow Flat Campground | 38.383320, -109.888232
• Green River Overlook | 38.383320, -109.888232

Maps

• Willow Flat Campground Map (KTNPBlog)

Links

• Willow Flat Campground (NPS)
• Cryptobiotic Soil Article (NPS)

Interactive Map

The post Willow Flat Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Our trip to Arches National Park was an adventure. We’ve captured our favorite hikes, dislikes, what we wished we had done, and other tips. We also provide information about visitation statistics and weather which are important considerations when visiting any national park. Here are our takeaways – we hope you can use it as a planning guide for your trip to Arches.

Overview

Arches National Park, located in eastern Utah near the town of Moab, was established to protect the high density of natural sandstone arches, bridges, and other rock formations. Established in 1929 as a National Monument, it was designated as a National Park in 1971. It’s the home of the well known Delicate Arch, which can be seen on tourism literature as well as the Utah state license plate. The fifth longest arch in the world, Landscape Arch, is also in the park.

American author Edward Abbey had been a park ranger in Arches NP from 1956 to 1957. His book, Desert Solitaire, chronicles his experiences within the park. Travis read the book before our trip, which gave him a better understanding of the area.

Compared to other National Parks, Arches is on the smaller side at 76,678 acres. This is similar in size to Theodore Roosevelt and Great Basin National Parks. It’s small enough that we felt like we had a good understanding of the park as a whole by the end of our 5-day visit.

There are plenty of recreational opportunities within the park including hiking, camping, backpacking, and canyoneering. For our trip, we focused on hiking and camping. We enjoyed the vast majority of hikes we did, and each offers something unique.

Our Top 5 in Arches National Park

1. Fiery Furnace – To limit the impact to the land, a permit is required to access Fiery Furnace. The ultimate adventure in the park, hikers can join a ranger-led tour (spring through fall) or do a self-guided hike. We opted for the latter; and had fun getting lost while exploring the picturesque rock formations. We also enjoyed the solitude the area affords.

   

2. Delicate Arch Trail – Hiking to the iconic Delicate Arch was a priority. It’s worth the hype (and crowds), as it boasts a gorgeous arch and other rock formations, interesting terrain, and even some petroglyphs. The La Sal Mountains provide a striking backdrop.

   

3. Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail – This hike can be as long or short as you want, and can be done as a loop or out-and-back. It provides views of Landscape Arch, the fifth longest arch in the world, as well as many other impressive arches. It’s a crowded hike, but the farther you go the fewer people there are.

   

4. Devils Garden Campground – The only campground within the park is centrally located so it’s easy to get out and explore. Additionally, it has sweeping views and convenient, thoughtful amenities. It’s one of our favorite campgrounds we’ve visited.

   

5. Moab – The town of Moab is located just outside the park, but we’re still giving it a mention. We loved Main Street and the variety of restaurants. Even if you’re not a foodie, there’s something for everyone. The only downside for us is that it can be crowded and touristy, depending on when you visit.

   

Mini Adventures

During our trip to Arches National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Balanced Rock – We stopped to check out this popular feature as we drove to Devils Garden Campground on our way into the park. It’s visible from the main road and easy to access. A short 0.3 mile hike loops around a precariously balanced sandstone rock. We enjoyed the walk and views of the surrounding landscape.

  

• Courthouse Wash Rock Art Panel – This pictograph is located just north of Moab, along US Route 191. A small parking lot on the border of Arches National Park leads to a bike trail. We hiked one mile round-trip to see the panel, along with other petroglyphs, at the base of a nearby cliff. Sadly, the rock art was severely damaged in 1980; it’s faint, but still visible.

  

• Park Avenue – This 2.0 mile round-trip out and back trail is the first hike you’ll reach when entering the park. That said, it was our least favorite. There were simply too many people (especially stepping off-trail), and its features didn’t seem as special to us as other hikes in the park. If you only have time for one hike, we recommend choosing another one. There are decent views of a few rock formations, like Three Gossips and Courthouse Towers.

  

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Backcountry Camping – When we planned our trip, it was our intention to backpack in the park. But the park closed down dispersed camping, and transitioned to designated campsites only, so there weren’t any options for backcountry camping during our visit. Currently, there are backcountry sites located off Devils Garden Primitive Trail and Courthouse Wash.
• Lost Spring Canyon – This north-east section of the park was added in 1998. There are no trails here, and we thought it would be a fun backpacking destination. Dispersed camping had been allowed, but was suspended shortly before our visit. Day hiking in the area is a priority next time we visit.
• Courthouse Wash – This route requires some navigation skills, and isn’t as well-advertised as others in the park. There are two sections of Courthouse Wash. The upper wash runs from the main park road to the western border. The lower wash begins along the east side of the main park road and runs to the southern border. Both have options for backcountry camping, or could be done as a shuttle hike or short out-and-back. It’s one of the few hikes in the park that may have a significant amount of water along the trail.

  

• Autotouring – There are a couple of 4WD roads within the park that interested us, specifically in Willow Flats and Herdina Park. We were curious to see what they had to offer, even though we focus mostly on hiking, camping, and backpacking.
• And many more…

Weather

Arches NP can be very hot, especially during late spring and summer. You’ll want to bring ample water, snacks, sunscreen, and a hat. March through May and September through October are the best times to visit Arches NP. We went in March and highly recommend it. Rain isn’t much of a concern since the area gets so little. As mentioned, the summer gets HOT, so we don’t recommend visiting during this time. If you do visit in summer, get out early, avoid mid-day, and bring lots of water.

Visitation Statistics

May through August is the most popular time to visit the park, assumedly because of summer break. We visited during spring break – there were fewer people, and the weather was milder. If you’re constrained by a school calendar, we recommend going during spring break instead.

Even in spring, the park is still booming with visitors, to the point where there are almost too many people. The chart below shows the influx of visitors by year. It’s been steadily increasing, aside from a drop in 2020 due to COVID-19. During the busiest times of the day (especially during the high season), the park entrance will close temporarily until enough visitors leave the park. Typically the park entrance closes mid-morning, and reopens in the early afternoon.

There have been discussions about alternate solutions. From April 3 to October 3, 2022, the park has implemented a timed entry pilot program. Visitors must reserve a ticket to enter the park between 6 a.m. and 5 p.m. This will require planning ahead, but should lessen congestion in the park. Of course, the best option might be to camp at Devils Garden Campground so you don’t have to worry about reserving a pass or re-entering the park.

Our Itinerary

We started our exploration of the park with hikes near Devils Garden Campground. Our planned itinerary worked well, but there are countless ways to plan your trip.

If you only have time for one hike, we recommend:

• Short Hike: Double Arch
• Medium Hike: Devils Garden Trail to Landscape Arch
• Long Hike: Delicate Arch

Our Experiences

• Devils Garden Campground
• Tower Arch Trail
• Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arch Loop Trail
• Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail
• Windows Loop and Double Arch Trails
• Delicate Arch Trail
• Fiery Furnace
• Moab Accommodations & Restaurants

Interactive Map

Paper Maps

• Arches National Park Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)
• Arches National Park Maps (NPS)

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