Time flies when you’re having fun, and sadly it was the last day of our trip to Canyonlands National Park. We had completed a 4-day backpacking adventure in Salt Creek Canyon, followed by a much needed one-day break. On our last full day in Utah, we decided to check out Chesler Park, a dayhike in the Needles District.

We planned to hike the 10.2 mile lollipop loop called Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail. It features spectacular views and a unique path through a deep and narrow fracture in the sandstone. Chesler Park is a large circular grassland surrounded by needles, a geological feature. Back in the 1960s, it was used for cattle grazing (which thankfully has since ended). While there are many ways to hike Chesler Park, we decided to take the route suggested by the park service.

A quick note about trail names in the Needles – you’ll notice that many are inconsistent if you look at multiple maps. Our map uses trail names based on public NPS GIS data. But the trail signs don’t specify the trail names, and instead have arrows with the destination and mileage (e.g. Elephant Hill in 1.5 mi or Druid Arch in 3.9 mi). For these reasons, we highly recommend carrying a map.

Elephant Hill Trailhead

We woke up tired and sore from our 28-mile backpacking trip, but we had high hopes for the day. The drive to Elephant Hill Trailhead was fairly easy, until we turned onto Elephant Hill Access Road shortly after the Needles Campground. After that, it’s a narrow dirt road with blind curves, so we took it slow. We got to the trailhead around 11 a.m. Chesler Park is a longer hike so I wished we had gotten there earlier, but this was the best we could do on that particular day. Thankfully there were still some parking spots at the main lot. There is also an overflow lot that we passed on the way.

Initially the trail ascends slickrock, and there are some picturesque stone steps. Much of the hike continues along slickrock, and some sections cut through sand. Cryptobiotic soil is also present, so be sure to avoid stepping on it.

We followed cairns as the trail weaved its way south, above Elephant Canyon. Behind us to the north, we spotted the snow capped La Sal Mountains. In the distance we could see the spires and needles that give the area its name.

300 million years ago, ancient seas dried up, leaving behind a layer of salt – which still lies 1000 feet below the surface. As rock eroded, it covered the salt, and the pressure caused the salt to flow. The resulting movement fractured the sandstone on top, creating a grid-like pattern. Over time, further erosion carved the needles as they appear today.

It was sunny and in the 80s, so we ducked behind any rocks we could find. There was a significant temperature difference in the shade compared to the sun. As we hiked, we saw a few lizards scampering around, and wildflowers like Indian paintbrush. After 0.6 miles we continued right on Chesler Park Trail. At this point I was still exhausted from the backpacking trip, but it wore off quickly as I was really enjoying the hike.

The trail ascends slickrock, then cuts through portions of rock. It led us through a narrow crack between two fins. It was shady and cool through there, so we hung out for a bit. We continued straight at the next intersection. Left would have taken us to Druid Arch, and right leads to EC1, a backcountry site.

We were getting closer to the needles, which meant better views. At the next intersection, we turned left to stay on Chesler Park Trail. This portion of the trail only goes for 0.6 miles, and features a moderately strenuous uphill climb with about 400 feet of elevation gain. Looking behind us, we had a view into Elephant Canyon, where we had just hiked, with the La Sals in the distance. A sign marked a “viewpoint.” The trail climbs, peaks, and then descends a sandy trail into Chesler Park itself. To our left, a small unnamed arch peeked out above the fins.

Chesler Park Loop

The slickrock gave way to a grass-covered meadow. This was Chesler Park. Though it seemed a bit out of place, it was beautiful. In the book Canyonlands National Park: Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails, author David Day theorizes that Chesler Park was formed by an ancient sinkhole that was filled with sand. When the salt movement below the surface created the needles, it also created the wide open Chesler Park.

While you can go either way at the intersection to form a 4.9 mile loop around Chesler Park, we chose to turn left and go counterclockwise. A network of trails, including Chesler Park Trail, Joint Trail, Devils Lane Road, and Devils Kitchen Trail, forms the circuit. Our first section, Chesler Park Trail, is narrow, sandy, and surrounded by vegetation and cryptobiotic soil. A few larger trees and bushes are scattered around. Shade is hard to come by, but we found a small tree where we enjoyed a quick lunch break.

Back on the trail, there are several viewpoints out over the needles. We passed two consecutive intersections, the first of which leads to Druid Arch. The next is a spur trail which follows some fins and needles into the heart of Chesler Park. Along this spur are four backcountry campsites: CP2, CP3, CP4, and CP5. (We had passed CP1 earlier, along the loop.)

Joint Trail

Next, Chesler Park Loop Trail transitions to the Joint Trail. Along the way, we noticed another spur trail that leads to a south viewpoint (but decided to skip it due to time constraints). As the trail continued, we arrived in a slickrock section with a sign pointing down a set of stairs, through a crack between fins, geologically known as a joint. While this looks like a slot canyon, it’s technically not (a slot canyon is typically formed through erosion via water). Hence, the Joint Trail.

This section of the hike is what we had most been looking forward to. As we followed the sandy trail, beams of light shone in, illuminating some portions. We scrambled down in a couple of areas, and shuffled through narrower sections. And the joint provided some much-needed respite from the heat. Eventually, the trail opened up to a wider and brighter area. We ran into another couple here, and briefly chatted with them about our travels.

We went a bit further through the joint, and spotted numerous cairns built by hikers. My understanding is that every so often, park rangers will take them down, since they can be misleading. Shortly after, we emerged into the bright sunlight. The joint was a fun experience, and the most memorable part of this hike.

We were back out in the open for the remainder of the hike. For the next 15 minutes, we hiked over sand and slickrock until the Joint Trail merges with a sandy 4WD road, called Joint Trail Road. There’s a picnic table and a latrine at this intersection.

From there, we hiked along Joint Trail Road for 0.5 miles, then turned right onto Devils Road. After another 0.2 miles, we came to a trail on the right that heads back toward Chesler Park. One car drove by while we were hiking, so keep an eye out. While the “trail” in this section is uninteresting, the views from the road are nice.

Back to Chesler Park Trail

Now we were back to hiking across slickrock and among rocky formations. After 25 minutes, we turned right to head east. The trail had more of the same – some light scrambling, cracks through fins, and views of the needles. Eventually, we finished the loop and headed back north to the trailhead. At this point, we were pretty tired, and just wanted to be done.

At around 6 p.m., we made it back to Elephant Hill Trailhead. We were wiped out. And hungry. We drove back to Moab for dinner and some much-needed rest. I wished we were staying closer to the Needles, but I also greatly appreciated the amenities Moab has to offer.

Chesler Park is a popular hike, and now I know why. It gets you up close to the needles and other rock formations, and the joint is particularly unique. The terrain and views are also varied, which creates interest. And there’s a surprising amount of solitude given its popularity.

Chesler Park and Joint Loop Trail

Date: Friday, April 19, 2019
Type: Lollipop loop day hike
Total Distance: 10.2 miles (16.4 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2076 feet (634 m)
Time: 7 hours
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low-moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological features including joints, views
Directions to Trailhead: Elephant Hill Trailhead
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water, hat, sunscreen, etc.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – Head south from Elephant Hill Trailhead.
• 1.3 mi – Turn right at the intersection.
• 1.8 mi – Continue straight, passing the EC1 backcountry campsite on your right. You’ll gain 400 feet of elevation in this section.
• 2.4 mi – Continue straight, passing Devils Kitchen Trail on your right.
• 2.6 mi – Arrive at Chesler Park, where the loop begins. Turn left to hike the loop clockwise.
• 3.7 mi – Continue straight, passing a turn-off on the left that heads toward Druid Arch.
• 3.8 mi – Continue straight, passing a turn-off on the right toward backcountry campsites along needles and fins in Chesler Park. Joint Trail begins here (though you won’t enter the actual joint yet).
• 4.5 mi – Enter the joint in the sandstone.
• 5.3 mi – Continue straight onto Joint Trail Road and continue (there’s a port-a-potty here).
• 5.8 mi – Turn right onto Devils Lane Road.
• 6.0 mi – Turn right onto Devils Kitchen Trail.
• 6.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection.
• 7.6 mi – You’ve completed the loop! Turn left to head back toward the trailhead.
• 7.8 mi – Continue straight, passing Devils Kitchen Trail on your left.
• 8.4 mi – Continue straight, passing the EC1 backcountry campsite on your left.
• 8.9 mi – Turn left at the intersection, toward Elephant Hill
• 10.2 mi – Arrive back at the trailhead.

Maps

• Chesler Park Trail Map (KTNP)
• Needles District Map (NPS)

Links

• Chesler Park Loop and Joint Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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In 2018, we enjoyed exploring the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park. But we wished we had been able to visit other areas of the park too. So, the following year, that’s what we did. After researching, we decided on a four day, three night backpacking trip through Salt Creek Canyon in the Needles District.

Salt Creek Trail has a lot of draws and is located in one of the more remote areas of the Needles District. There are reliable water sources, archeological ruins, history, arches, solitude, and more. The area can be hiked via multiple routes, and we decided to do a one-way shuttle hike. Overall, the route we chose was easy to moderate. We planned low mileage days so we could take our time and explore.

Our trip turned out amazing – we loved the history, scenery, and vibe of the area. It was exactly what we were looking for. Unfortunately, we ran into a couple issues along the way (primarily due to our own mistakes). But when backpacking, you have to be prepared for anything. So we rolled with them as best we could, and this post goes into detail, so hopefully it helps someone else. Get ready, this is a long one.

Planning – Route and Campsites

We started our route at the southern border of Canyonlands, at Cathedral Butte in Bears Ears National Monument. There are two options for hiking out – Cave Spring or the Needles Campground. Exiting at Cave Spring makes for a shorter route, but the final 3.5 miles is along a sandy wash. Hiking out at the Needles Campground would mean an additional 1.3 miles, but it affords more views along the slickrock. We decided to finish our trip at Cave Spring, making the total distance 28.2 miles.

Along the route are four designated campsites: SC1, SC2, SC3, and SC4. There’s no dispersed camping until reaching the Salt/Horse Zone (after 14.1 miles). So, for us, it was critical that we got the campsites that we wanted. We wanted SC1 -> SC3 -> Salt/Horse Zone permits. SC2 was our backup to SC1, while SC4 was our backup to SC3. SC1 and SC2 are adjacent, and we had read that SC1 was more private. SC3 was preferable to SC4 because there’s a lot to see between SC1/SC2 and SC3, and we wanted time to explore.

The trail begins at 7,074′ of elevation, and ends at 4,931′. The trail descends initially, and is fairly level for the rest of the trip. The longest day for us would be the last one (day 4), while the other days were fairly low mileage. We decided to hike it south to north, so we would descend, rather than ascend, about 2,000 feet of elevation. About half way along Salt Creek Trail is a side trail to Angel Arch, the largest sandstone arch within Canyonlands NP. So we tacked on an additional 3.2 miles round-trip to see it.

Planning – Permits and Regulations

We were able to reserve the sites online, but the reservation system has changed since then. Starting in 2020, Canyonlands uses recreation.gov, and future blocks of campsites are available on four specific dates throughout the year. For example, on November 10, 2020, the permits for March 10 through June 9, 2021 became available. This makes it easier to grab the sites for your entire trip. (To reserve our campsites, I had to wait until 2am EST, for 3 nights straight, when the permits became available.)

With our permits secured, our next step was booking a shuttle, since this was a one-way hike. We contacted Coyote Shuttle, headquartered in Moab. We reserved our shuttle well in advance, for $300 (the cost now is around $375). Expensive, but worth it, and they were responsive and professional.

Next, it was time to research specific points of interest. We bought books and scoured the internet. Along the trail are numerous ruins, cliff dwellings, pictographs, and artifacts that were created thousands of years ago by the Fremont and Ancestral Puebloan (also called Anasazi) Native Americans. People lived in the region for roughly 2,000 years, starting as hunter-gatherers, and eventually farming. By 1200 AD, large groups of people lived in what is now Canyonlands, and the society reached its peak. Around 1300 AD, the Ancestral Puebloans left the area and migrated south toward Arizona and New Mexico, possibly due to drought.

Big Ruins, the largest archaeological site in Canyonlands, evokes a sense of grandeur. There are at least 20 structures high on a ledge. The Ancestral Puebloans also lived in what is now Mesa Verde National Park, so they have similarities. There are also smaller features within Salt Creek Canyon that are just as worthwhile. Directions to these landmarks are not always public knowledge, but you can find information about them online or in books with enough time and effort. To protect them, we won’t provide the specific locations of these special places.

A couple important details that are specific to the area: First, there is a small population of black bears in Salt Creek Canyon. In late summer, the bears migrate down from the nearby Abajo Mountains, so bear canisters are required along Salt Creek Canyon from March 15 to November 30 (and highly recommended at other times). This was the first time we needed a canister, and we bought a BearVault BV500, which sufficed for four days with two people. Another important thing to know is that all human waste must be packed out when camping at designated campsites (which includes SC 1-4). When we visited, only toilet paper needed to be packed out, but this changed in 2020.

Day 0 – To Moab

It’s also vital to know that Beef Basin Road, which leads to our trailhead at Cathedral Butte, is a rough dirt road. We expected the weather to be sunny and dry like our first trip to the area. But it rained heavily just before our trip, and it turns out that the road gets muddy and can become impassable after a downpour…so we weren’t sure what Beef Basin Road had in store for us. Other than that, the weather looked nice for our trip in late March – mid 60s to low 70s during the day, and 40s at night.

When we arrived in Moab, we checked into Inca Inn before heading to Coyote Shuttle to pay for the trip. While there, we were told that there was the possibility of snow/ice on the trail. We decided to stop by a local shop and grab some cheap crampons. Fortunately, we didn’t end up needing them, but I’m glad we had them just in case.

Day 1 – To Cathedral Butte

The next day, we woke up early and drove to Canyonlands National Park, Needles District. On the way we stopped at a few places with scenic views or attractions like Newspaper Rock. Once we arrived at the Needles Visitor Center, we got our backcountry camping permits. Since we had reserved an at-large area (Salt/Horse), we were required to pick up our permits from the Visitor Center (so a ranger could give us brief instructions before the trip).

At the visitor center, we also changed our permit to exit at the Needles Campground rather than Cave Spring. We decided we preferred to hike on slickrock instead of the sandy path to Cave Spring. But, we ended up exiting at Cave Spring anyway… we’ll get to that later.

Around 9:45 a.m., we met our shuttle driver, Farland, at the visitor center. We followed her in our car to the Needles Campground, where we parked. Then, we hopped in the jeep for our bumpy ride. Farland was very friendly and engaging. She told us about her past career as a teacher (Kristin is also a teacher), as well as her experiences in the Moab area.

Beef Basin Road goes through Bears Ears National Monument, where Cathedral Butte is located. Initially, the ride wasn’t too bad. We zipped across the dirt road with towering redrock monoliths beside us, and through a large pool of water. The further we went, the worse shape the road was in, until it got pretty muddy. Farland and the jeep were able to handle it all, and we got to the Cathedral Butte trailhead without any issues. She dropped us off at 11:30 a.m., and we thanked her profusely.

The trailhead was at the top of a cliff surrounded by pinyon and juniper. Looking out over Salt Creek Canyon – at 7,074 feet of elevation – gave us a scenic view of where we were heading. It’s intimidating to suddenly be dropped in the middle of nowhere with no transportation, aside from walking. There was some lingering snow around the parking area, as well as one other very muddy truck with chains on its tires.

Day 1 – Cathedral Butte to SC1

Before starting our hike, we checked out the trailhead sign. We signed the register, and found an NPS map describing a challenging marshy section about 2.5 miles into the trail. We snapped a photo of it, just in case. Around noon, we started our descent into Salt Creek. After 4.3 miles, we would reach our campsite.

Over the next 1.5 miles, we descended almost 1000 feet. It wasn’t hard, but the trail was steep and eroded in places. We were glad we were going down and not up! The weather was cool, but we quickly peeled off layers as we moved. There was a bit of scattered snow, but none on the trail. As we got lower, we started seeing cryptobiotic soil – which we made sure to avoid. The views were incredible, and we enjoyed looking back at Cathedral Butte, to see where we had come from.

Eventually, the route descended into a flat area with sagebrush, and then the sandy “bottom” of Upper Salt Creek Canyon. From there, we left Bears Ears National Monument and entered Canyonlands National Park. The vegetation around us started to change again until we were surrounded by tamarisk, rabbitbrush, willows, and other brush and grasses. We went through this section until we came to the marsh mentioned on the map at the trailhead, full of tall scouring reeds.

Initially, the path was easy to follow through the towering reeds. We crossed small streams that flowed through. While the park does have pink ribbons tied around reeds as markers to follow, they were difficult to find. The further in we went, the harder it was to navigate. We had read that hikers should bear right along the path toward the east side of the marsh, and we were able to figure our way through. But I can see the benefit of having the map (from the trailhead) just in case.

We brought binoculars so we could see some of the ruins and cliff dwellings that were further away. The marshy section was where (we think) we got our first glimpse of some granaries high up on a cliff along the east side of the trail.

Eventually, the trail follows a sandstone cliff to the east (our right). The trail is very clear here, and runs right past the first pictograph panel we saw. The panel has four handprints, as well as a small humanoid figure. We couldn’t help stretching out our hands and comparing them to the ones on the wall (without touching them). We wondered who created them and why. How long ago? Interesting thoughts and theories flooded our minds as we speculated.

Shortly after the pictograph is the first reliable water source – Kirk Spring. Water cascades down a sandstone slope and lands in a large pond. It’s very picturesque, but we didn’t linger too long. It’s close enough to our campsite that we would come back to filter later. 150 yards beyond the water source, we encountered the next historical treasure: Kirk’s Cabin.

A small hewn log cabin sits just next to the trail. Built in the 1890s by Renssalaer Lee Kirk, the cabin has stood for over 125 years. Kirk ranched there until 1905, when he abandoned the area because he couldn’t make a living. Scattered around the cabin are remnants of the ranching days: a corral, fences, even an old wagon. The site was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.

The cabin is open to visitors, so we went in and explored. Small trinkets (and unfortunately, trash left by other hikers) were strewn about. While the cabin is in decent shape considering its age, I imagine it’s seen better days. It’s hard to imagine living here; I’m sure it was a lonely experience.

Just past Kirk’s Cabin is a small trail to the right that leads to two campsites: SC1 and SC2. We were staying at SC1, so we headed back on the spur, where it split to each individual campsite. We assumed SC2 was booked, but we didn’t see anyone else. Our campsite was large, quiet, and private. We set up our camp, ate dinner, and headed to bed.

Day 2 – SC1 to Big Pocket

The next morning we woke up refreshed and excited for the day. There are so many things to see on the next stretch of trail: the All American Man, Four Faces, Squash Patch, Big Ruins, Ring Arch, and numerous other points of interest. We only planned to hike five miles, so we could focus on exploring. But first, we needed to filter some water…which became more of an issue than we anticipated.

On the way out of the campsite, we spotted Kirk Arch across the canyon. It’s difficult to see because there is another rock face behind the opening. We had missed it the day before, but once you know where it is, you can’t miss it. We headed left on Salt Creek Trail, passed Kirk’s Cabin, and backtracked to the pond.

Our water filter of choice is a Sawyer Squeeze. While we’ve used other systems in the past, we’ve found it to have the best balance of utility, weight, and ease of use. We filled up our water pouches at Kirk Spring, attached them to the filter, and squeezed – water should come out the other side into our bottles. But nothing came out. Not worried yet, we backwashed the filter. It still didn’t work. Insert expletive here.

Before our trip, we had picked up supplies at the REI in Grand Junction, Colorado. On a whim we also bought some water purification tablets. We’d never carried or used them before, but we were glad we had them. Without the tablets, we would have needed to boil water, taking away our precious fuel. And we hadn’t even seen another hiker at this point, so borrowing wasn’t an option.

We brought a limited number of tablets, so we had to conserve them as much as possible. Part of that meant allowing the water to warm to “room temperature” before we added the tablets, and calculating how much water to put into each container (we used hydration bladders, which made it easier). And, two new takeaways from the trip: first, test our water filter before leaving, and second, bring purification tablets as a backup.

After figuring out the water situation, we headed north past Kirk’s Cabin, then past the wooden fence built by Kirk himself. The fences are fairly intricate, even though barbed wire was available at the time. About a third of a mile later, we came to our first easily accessible ruins – two small granaries tucked in an alcove – not far from the trail. It’s special to be able to get up close (but not too close) to the ruins. Back on the main trail, we spotted another unnamed arch across the canyon to the west. It’s scenic, yet inaccessible. Sometimes this is also referred to as Kirk Arch.

As we continued on the trail, we spotted signs of wildlife. On the path was hairy scat, most likely from coyotes which frequent the area. Also on this stretch, we saw the most peculiar insects – red and yellow colored hairy ants. They lived in holes on the trail. We later learned that they’re called velvet ants, but are actually a type of wasp! They can sting, but thankfully aren’t aggressive.

Soon after, we came upon the Big Pocket area to our right (east) where we spotted a Great Basin gopher snake in the brush. They aren’t poisonous, but we didn’t know that at the time, so we stayed well away. We knew there were additional ruins in the Big Pocket Area, but we continued on the main trail since there was so much to explore.

Day 2 – Big Ruins, Wedding Ring Arch, Squash Granary

Looking west, we saw Big Ruins about 0.4 miles from the trail. If you know where to look, the ruins are easy to find. Located on a cliff, it’s the largest collection of Ancestral Puebloan Ruins in Canyonlands. This site was one reason I wanted to hike Salt Creek. Most ruins are tucked into a ledge about 70 feet off the ground. To get closer to the ruins, we found a social spur trail immediately after a large diamond shaped rock. As we approached, the ruins slowly came into focus. Black soot covered the ceiling of the ledges, remnants of fires from over 700 years ago.

At our feet were numerous pottery pieces, so many that we had to make sure we didn’t step on any. Previous visitors had placed most of them on rocks to help protect them. The pieces have various patterns and colors, and we promptly tried to find our favorite designs. As always, leave no trace and do not remove any artifacts from the site.

Metate and mano – tools that were used to grind corn – are also in this area. So logically, there were dried corncobs there too. Could these be over 700 years old? At the bottom of the sandstone cliffs are granary ruins, where corn was likely stored so long ago. On the higher ledge with the structures, we spotted more handprints. There’s no way to get to the ledge, so they’re protected. The Ancestral Puebloans likely used ladders, which have long since disappeared, to access the structures. Big Ruins are awe-inspiring and they lived up to my expectations.

After exploring for as long as we could, we returned to the main trail. Far in the distance we saw a peculiar shape – Fisheye Arch. Another nearby arch (which isn’t as visible), is also sometimes referred to as Fisheye Arch. Shortly after, we went about 600 feet off the main trail to check out Wedding Ring Arch.

As we were heading to Wedding Ring Arch, we met the first person we’d seen since starting the trail. We were surprised to learn that he was a day hiker, but we weren’t sure where he started from. He had been looking for the All American Man pictograph. While we didn’t know exactly where it was, we knew it was to the north, so we mentioned that. But he was running out of time, and headed south. If he couldn’t find the pictograph, we started to worry that we wouldn’t be able to either.

Wedding Ring Arch is almost a perfect circle, if you look from the right angle. It’s large, about 200 feet high and 150 feet wide. Like Fisheye Arch, another Wedding Ring Arch is located before Kirk’s Cabin on some maps. But this one looks more like a ring than that one. Once we got some photos, we headed back to the main trail. The path goes through some wide open sagebrush areas, through reeds, and then back into sagebrush. Well worn hiker-made trails weave their way from Salt Creek Trail to our next destination – the Squash Plant Ruins.

Three granary ruins sit below an alcove. There are many granaries in Salt Creek, but what makes these unique is the squash plants growing in front of them. They likely grew from seeds originally planted by the Puebloans over 700 years ago! As far as we know, this is the only area in Salt Creek that has squash plants.

We were lucky to spot an old squash from the previous year, now hollow. How cool is that? Seeing it helped us imagine what it would have been like to live there long ago. More handprints above the granaries round out this special area.

Day 2 – All American Man, Four Faces, SC3

There was still more to see in this section of Salt Creek. Next were two of the most iconic pictographs: the All American Man and Four Faces. But first, we spotted a few ruins high up in a crack on a sandstone cliff. It’s mind-blowing to ponder how they might have been built. Shortly after, we came to the well-known All American Man basically right next to the trail. It’s located in a crevice in the wall, about 10 to 15 feet above the ground, with some ruins behind it. Below we found a canister with a hiker log, which we signed.

The All American Man is aptly named – a six-foot tall round figure, decked out in red, white, and blue, along with a narrow head and strange antennae. There is even what appears to be an American flag (but of course, it isn’t) near the figure’s “waist.” It’s vivid and spectacular. The blue color is actually gray, but it appears blue in the dim light and among the surrounding red sandstone. At some point, a visitor outlined the pictograph with white chalk – a practice that has damaged many petroglyphs and pictographs. Please treat all ruins with respect, and follow leave no trace.

The trail briefly veers to the west after the All American Man and goes through a crack in the sandstone. While it was probably unnecessary for the trail to go this way, it does make for an interesting scramble. Afterward, we made our way through dense reeds and other thick vegetation. About 30 minutes past the All American Man, we arrived at some ruins and the next pictograph – the Four Faces.

Most of the ruins in Canyonlands are from the Ancestral Puebloan culture, but Four Faces was created by the Fremont people. The two groups are distinct, and they overlapped in the area. The Four Faces is well preserved, considering it’s over 700 years old. The red colors are vivid, and it looks like it could have been painted yesterday. There are other “face” pictographs in Canyonlands, but most are in poorer condition. One of the nearby ruins was likely a kiln or hearth, as it’s blackened with soot inside.

Four Faces Spring, which would be our next water source, is located near the pictograph. The spring is also only a short walk from SC3 campsite. There, we met the second person that we’d seen so far. He was doing a through hike on The Hayduke Trail, which goes from Arches National Park through much of Southern Utah, then into Northern Arizona before ending in Zion National Park. An alternate route goes through Salt Creek. As we talked, we started feeling a bit uncomfortable with some things he was discussing. Then, he asked to stay in our campsite, and we realized that he likely did not have any permits. We’re usually pretty flexible, but due to some odd vibes we declined.

Continuing, we crossed Salt Creek and walked another 0.2 miles to reach SC3, our campsite for the night. The site is nice and big, and more open than SC1. Once we set up camp, I headed back to Four Faces Spring to get some water.

I peered into the pond and was surprised to see some large salamanders. These were Tiger Salamanders, the only species of salamander in the park. As I was taking this in, a small bat flew over the surface of the pond looking for insects. There’s so much wildlife here! I only had my cell phone on me on, so the pictures aren’t great. I headed back to camp for dinner. I tried out a GOOD TO-GO Bibimbap meal – it was not very good, which was disappointing since we’ve liked the brand’s other meals.

Day 3 – SC3 to Angel Arch Camp

We started early on day 3. Our plan was to hike 5.3 miles to a dispersed campsite, then head down a side trail to check out Angel Arch. The hike started out in sagebrush and led us to some geometric rock art, before reaching Upper Jump. This is a small waterfall, and would be a good place to get water if we had needed it. The creek bed then drops about 25 feet, and the trail gets greener, wetter, and narrower. We soon found ourselves surrounded by rabbitbrush, willows, and other vegetation. It was a welcome change.

For the next 2.3 miles or so after Upper Jump, we saw lots of trees and crossed numerous streams. The National Park Service has constructed simple wooden bridges across most of the streams. Cottonwood leaves crunched under our feet. Eventually, the trail rose above Salt Creek Canyon. We spotted rock art known as the Paper Dolls, since it looks like a string of figures holding hands. Shortly after, the trail took us back down into the canyon.

We neared the SC4 campsite and decided to check it out and take a short break. It’s a nice large site, with plenty of shade, privacy, and logs to sit on (always important!). Past SC4, the trail becomes harder to navigate, but it follows Salt Creek (more or less) as it winds its way north. About an hour and a half after SC4, we arrived at the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Angel Arch would have to wait, as we wanted to set up camp first.

After this intersection, the trail crosses into the Salt/Horse backpacking zone. This area allows for dispersed camping (best practice is to select a previously established site). We continued north on Salt Creek Trail, and in 0.2 miles we reached the area where we would camp. Formerly known as Angel Arch Camp, it’s an open area that features large cottonwood trees…or at least it did until a wildfire in 2016. According to some forums, the fire may have been caused by humans, but I never found a reliable source. It’s still a nice area to camp, but I imagine it used to be even better with the shade and privacy of the trees. As a reminder, campfires are not permitted in the backcountry.

– A brief historical interlude –

Incredibly, Salt Creek Trail north of the Angel Arch intersection, as well as the trail to Angel Arch, used to be open to motor vehicles. In 1998, the trail was closed by the NPS to protect the habitat and archaeological resources. After years of litigation, the trail has remained closed. It’s almost unthinkable for vehicles to drive through a riparian area which is so important to the delicate ecosystem.

While I’m glad 4WD vehicles are no longer in this part of Salt Creek, we found signs of past use, like scratches on rocks and abnormally wide trails. That said, the area has recovered quite well. Wildlife, like black bears, has started to repopulate the area (mainly in a late-summer migration from the Abajo Mountains). Some vehicle tracks have been overgrown with vegetation. Salt Creek itself has began to run clear, and riparian vegetation has increased.

Day 3 – Angel Arch Trail

After setting up our campsite, we headed back south to the Angel Arch Trail intersection. The trail goes 1.6 miles before reaching the arch. Initially, it was easy to follow, and we found some ruins and pictographs on a nearby cliff. The further we went, the wetter and more difficult to navigate it became.

Curiously, some maps have this trail incorrectly labeled as “Abbey’s Triple Arch Trail,” assumedly dedicated to Edward Abbey. Abbey’s Triple Arch is actually located in The Maze district.

Eventually we spotted Angel Arch. Morning lighting would have been better, since the sun is behind the arch in the afternoon, but this was the only time we’d have to see the arch. Cairns guided us up slickrock, to a rock formation known as “the molar.” It supposedly resembles a tooth, though it looked more like a heart to us.

Behind the molar stands Angel Arch. Its size, unique shape, and remoteness make it impressive. Originally, the formation was named Pegasus Arch until 1963, when it was officially named Angel Arch. There is supposedly a cairned 1.5 mile (round trip) trail that leads to the base of the arch, but we didn’t have the time or energy to do it. Thankfully the sky was a bit cloudy, which helped us get some decent photos.

We had brought our cooking gear with us, so we made dinner and ate while enjoying a view of the arch. It’s a great memory – just the two of us, relaxing and enjoying the beautiful scenery. Next, we headed back the way we came until we reached our campsite. We fell asleep to the gentle, and thankfully brief, rain that fell on our tent.

Day 4 – Angel Arch Camp to Peekaboo

The next morning we woke up to slightly damp ground. It felt cold and dreary initially, but the weather warmed up as the day went on. For the most part, the trail followed Salt Creek, which had places where we could have filtered water if we needed it. The trail opened up into wide, flat sandstone, which was beautiful and fun to hike. The Salt/Horse Zone allows for dispersed camping, and we stumbled upon a few established campsites (see Google Map below). About 1.1 miles beyond Angel Arch Camp, the trail passes right by Crescent Arch, high in the sandstone.

This was also the section where we started running into more people, since it’s possible to day hike here from the Needles Campground. First, we ran into some backpackers who were heading south. As we talked, we learned they were from the DC area too. They had a wide range of campsite permits that had taken them from Lost Canyon into Salt Creek. They mentioned that Peekaboo Trail was particularly scary. We didn’t think anything of the warning at the time, but knew we would be on that trail shortly.

One of the last major pictographs along the trail, the Flying Carpet Panel, is shortly before Peekaboo Arch. We managed to find a spur trail that led to the panel. Unlike earlier pictographs such as the All American Man or Four Faces, this panel is Barrier Canyon style. Another example of this style is The Great Gallery in Horseshoe Canyon. The Flying Carpet Panel features several figures of varying sizes, and neat red handprints. It’s an impressive collection of pictographs.

After hiking about 6.5 miles from Angel Arch Camp, we reached Peekaboo Arch. It’s very unique and looks almost like it was punched out of a fin. The trail goes right through the arch. Formerly, it looped around the entire fin, but that’s no longer the “official” trail. Which is nice, since going through saves about half a mile.

We hiked up the slickrock and passed through the arch. We turned immediately left to admire a well known pictograph next to the opening of the arch. It was created by the Fremont Native Americans. If you look closely, you can see that it was painted over faint red artwork that is even older. Handprints are also nearby. There were a few people here, which was unsurprising since the area is accessible from the Needles Campground.

Looking down, we spotted Peekaboo Camp, a designated campsite. The 4WD road to Peekaboo Camp is only open a few weeks throughout the year based on weather and driving conditions, but we didn’t see any cars nearby, and no one seemed to be camping at Peekaboo that day. We had read about the nearby Peekaboo Spring but weren’t able to find it, but there did seem to be pools of water right before the arch.

Day 4 – Peekaboo Trail

After this point, Salt Creek Road heads north to Cave Spring Trailhead, where we originally planned to end our hike. When we picked up our permit, we had switched our point of exit to the Needles Campground (previously known as Squaw Flat Campground), since we thought hiking on slickrock would be preferable to sand. So instead of heading north, we hiked west from Peekaboo Campsite, onto Peekaboo Trail. The trail ascends onto benches – areas with vertical rock both above and below. The 4.7 mile trail is primarily on slickrock until you reach the campground.

Our first obstacle was a ladder in a crack between fins. Climbing it was a lot of fun, even though our backpacks were a tight fit. Once on top, we spotted a small ruin nearby. As we followed the cairns along the slickrock, the views became more and more impressive. We scrambled up to the benches and ledges above the canyon. At one point, we climbed through a small window in the sandstone.

We continued until we got to an area that seemed sketchy, and recalled the backpackers who told us about this earlier in the day. The narrow, sloped sandstone goes for about 10-15 feet, and has a sheer drop-off. As I started to go across it, my foot slipped. I caught myself and backed up. By this point we were looking around, trying to figure out if this was even the right spot, and were a bit freaked out.

We decided not to risk it and backtracked out of Peekaboo Trail. Our only other option was to hike out to Cave Spring. The trail to Cave Spring is shorter than the hike to the Needles Campground – but our car was parked in the campground. We would need to walk an additional 3.6 miles along the road to reach our car.

Looking at photos of Peekaboo Trail, that narrow area doesn’t look so bad. But I still think we made the right choice for our safety. When hiking and backpacking, it’s vital to trust your instincts and know your limits. Online, it looks like other hikers get past that section just fine, though some blogs mention that it’s scary (a chain or bar would help). Someday, we intend to go back and take another look.

Day 4 – Peekaboo to Cave Spring Trailhead

We headed back toward Peekaboo Campground, our emotions still running pretty high. It was going to be a very long day, so we had to move at a good pace. From there, we went north on Salt Creek Road. It’s flat and obviously used by vehicles. It’s also a huge pain to hike because it’s covered in sand.

I tried to keep a steady pace ahead of Kristin to keep us going. Eventually I tired out, and she took over the lead. The setting sun blazed into our eyes as we tried to find areas with firmer ground. There’s nothing special about the road, but we were more focused on getting out of there than sight-seeing. After 3.4 miles (which seemed like an eternity) we reached the Cave Spring Trailhead.

From there, we hiked an additional 3.6 miles to the campground along a paved road. Once we got back to our car, we were exhausted and it was late. We had hiked around 16 miles that day. We drove back to Moab, grabbed some fast food (from the golden arches), and crashed at our hotel for the night.

The End?

Overall, the trip was an amazing adventure (in spite of our issues with the water filter and Peekaboo Trail). It was one of my favorite trips we’ve ever done, particularly because of the archaeological features. Pictographs like the All American Man and Four Faces are iconic sites that are forever burned into my memory. It was worth all the time it took to plan the route, campsites, and shuttle.

We wish Peekaboo Trail had worked out for us. It’s far more scenic than Salt Creek Road to Cave Spring. The parts of Peekaboo we hiked provided sweeping views, and it was very different compared with the first three days of our trip. If you’re feeling brave, I recommend exiting at the Needles Campground. If you want to play it safe, exit at Cave Spring. A compromise could include a short hike to Peekaboo Trail to see the views and sandstone rims, then exit at Cave Spring.

There’s still more to see in Salt Creek (and the rest of the Needles district). Salt Creek has many side canyons, arches, and other geological features. There are more ruins, pictographs, and petroglyphs out there to find. Someday we plan to go back and explore even more. Until then, I hope this special place stays protected for everyone that visits in the future.

Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (Cathedral Butte to Cave Spring)

Date: Sunday, April 14, 2019 – Wednesday, April 17, 2019
Type: 3-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 28.2 miles (45.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +1093 feet (333 m), -3240 feet (988 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 142 feet (43 m) gain, 1301 feet (397 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC1
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 289 feet (88 m) gain, 555 feet (169 m) loss
  • Time: 8 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: SC3
• Day 3:
  • Distance: 8.9 miles (14.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 494 feet (151 m) gain, 770 feet (235 m) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring (not including the hour we spent at Angel Arch)
  • Overnight: Salt/Horse Zone (Angel Arch Camp)
• Day 4 (assumes exiting at Cave Spring):
  • Distance: 9.9 miles (15.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 168 feet (51 m) gain, 614 feet (187 m) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours, which includes lunch, breaks, and exploring

Trail Markings: Cairns, pink ribbons through the marshy area on the first day
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, small waterfalls, ponds
Highlights: Views, archaeological sites, wildlife, history, waterfalls, geological features
Directions to Cathedral Butte Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: Alternately, you could go the opposite direction, but we highly recommend south to north.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Cathedral Butte Trailhead, go north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 3.9 mi – Pass Kirk Spring on the left, a reliable water source.
• 4.0 mi – Pass Kirk’s Cabin on the right.
• 4.1 mi – Turn right onto the spur to SC1 and SC2. The spur then splits to each individual campsite.
• 4.3 mi – Arrive at SC1/SC2. In the morning, retrace your steps back to Salt Creek Trail.
• 4.4 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail, heading north.
• 6.3 mi – Wedding Ring Arch is nearby. Find a social trail that avoids cryptobiotic soil if you’d like to get closer.
• 8.2 mi – The trail passes close by the All American Man Pictograph.
• 8.8 mi – Cross over Salt Creek, and Four Faces Spring, another great place for water. Right before the spring is the Four Faces Pictograph and ruins.
• 9.4 mi – A small spur trail leads to the SC3 campsite. Stay the night, then continue north on Salt Creek Trail in the morning.
• 12.5 mi – Pass by the spur trail to the SC4 campsite.
• 14.4 mi – You’ve reached the intersection with Angel Arch Trail. Continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 14.6 mi – Reach Angel Arch Camp. You can set up your tent here, or wherever you prefer since this is part of the Salt/Horse Dispersed Camping Zone. Just remember, the best site is found, not created. After setting up camp, head back south to the Angel Arch intersection.
• 14.9 mi – Turn left onto Angel Arch Trail.
• 16.5 mi – You’ve arrived at the Molar and Angel Arch. Enjoy! If desired, take the social trail (some scrambling required) to the base of the arch. Head back along Angel Arch Trail when ready.
• 18.1 mi – Turn right onto Salt Creek Trail.
• 18.3 mi – Arrive back at your campsite. In the morning, continue north on Salt Creek Trail.
• 24.8 mi – You’ve arrived at Peekaboo Arch. Continue on the trail, and go through the arch in the fin. Peekaboo Camp, as well as some petroglyphs, are on the other side. Hike through the camp, and continue north on Salt Creek Road.
• 28.2 mi – Salt Creek Road ends at Cave Spring Trailhead, where hopefully you have a car waiting for you. You’re done!

Places

• Cathedral Butte | 37.952721, -109.698471
• Cave Spring | 38.149672, -109.755018
• The Needles Campground | 38.149594, -109.792086
• Kirk Spring | 37.983303, -109.745977
• Kirk Cabin | 37.985556, -109.743722
• SC1 Campsite | 37.98435, -109.74228
• SC2 Campsite | 37.98604, -109.74163
• Wedding Ring Arch | 38.01104, -109.74082
• Four Faces Spring | 38.03934, -109.76152
• SC3 Campsite | 38.03909, -109.76403
• Upper Jump | 38.043318, -109.764622
• SC4 Campsite | 38.055420, -109.770040
• Angel Arch Camp | 38.069867, -109.766616
• Angel Arch | 38.05203, -109.75681
• Peekaboo Camp | 38.114878, -109.754435

Maps

• Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon (KTNP)
• The Needles District (NPS)
• The Needles Backcountry Zone Map (NPS)

Links

• NPS
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Permits (recreation.gov)
  • Canyonlands Backcountry Regulations (NPS)
  • Salt Creek Archaeology (NPS)
  • American Indians in Canyonlands (NPS)
• History of Trail
  • NPS Action and History on Salt Creek Canyon Road in 2004 (federalregister.gov)
  • NPS Environmental Assessment : Middle Salt Creek Canyon Access Plan from 2002 (Utah State University)

Planning Resources

• Salt Creek Canyon Trail (UtahTrails)
• Coyote Shuttle
• Books
  • Canyonlands National Park Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails by David Day
  • Hiking, Biking and Exploring Canyonlands National Park and Vicinity by Michael Kelsey

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Salt Creek Canyon appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Our last hike in Canyonlands National Park would be one to remember. We only had the morning, since we planned to drive to Grand Junction, CO that afternoon. Our trail was a 1.6 mile out and back to False Kiva, an archaeological site tucked away in an alcove. It turned out to be our favorite hike (so far) in the Island in the Sky District.

A kiva is a large, circular, underground room. They were used by the Puebloans, the native people of that region, for religious purposes. The round structure found at the end of this hike is not a true kiva, since there is no underground area. There is some uncertainty surrounding its exact origins and intended purpose. True kivas can be seen at Mesa Verde National Park or Bandelier National Monument.

We hesitated to write a post about False Kiva because it is a Class II archaeological site. The trail does not appear on park maps in order to limit access, since the site is more vulnerable to visitor impacts. Interestingly, it used to be on AllTrails, but was removed in 2021. However, if you ask a Park Ranger, they’ll tell you how to find the trail.

We visited in March 2018 (yes, we are slow at blogging – good thing we took copious notes). Back then, the site was fully explorable. But in August of 2018, the alcove site was vandalized and closed indefinitely. You can still hike the trail, but a chain blocks entry into the alcove itself. The “kiva” is now inaccessible, but you can see it from a distance. The vandalism is very unfortunate, especially given how much we enjoyed the trail and archeological site.

The Trail

It takes some effort to find the trailhead. Asking a park ranger is the easiest and safest way. When we stopped to ask about the trail at Island in the Sky Visitor Center, the ranger brought out a laminated sheet with information on the location and points of interest along the trail.

From the visitor center, we drove west toward Upheaval Dome. Our parking was a small pull-off with just enough space. From there, we crossed the road and headed south. Some juniper logs were lined up along the edge, near a bend in the road. Behind the logs, a well worn trail begins.

We didn’t see anyone else heading onto the trail, but near the start we did meet a group that was coming back from the kiva. So we knew we were on the right track. While the trail isn’t heavily travelled, it was easy for us to follow. Initially, it goes through an area with various shrubs, like blackbrush, and juniper in the distance. Far out, we could see into a canyon called Upper West Basin, and beyond. A prominent rock formation stood ahead of us – I never figured out its name.

The dirt trail beat its way through the desert. Eventually, we started following cairns that guided us through the rocky sections. Along the way, we spotted a few lizards, which we always enjoy seeing. Before long, we reached the edge of the rim and looked out across the canyon. It was a gorgeous view, with Candlestick Tower on our left. The unknown rock formation we had seen earlier was on our right.

The trail started descending down a rocky slope. Based on the photo the park ranger had shown us, we knew we were getting close to the kiva. Looking around, we kept trying to find the alcove in advance. It’s surprisingly well hidden. Once we reached the bottom of the slope, the trail wound its way across a narrow rocky shelf. Eventually, the trail curved sharply to the right, almost doubling back on itself. This brought us closer to the large rock wall that had been to our right since we had descended. We had views out into the canyons the whole way.

False Kiva

Suddenly, after scrambling up a small sandstone incline, we were there! Thankfully, we had the place to ourselves. We had only passed one other group on the way, and it was so peaceful and quiet. We took photos and enjoyed the gorgeous scenery.

The area is known for a famous view of the Kiva in the foreground, and the canyons in the background. Lighting for photography was just okay in the morning; afternoon lighting would probably be better. But we’re glad we got to see it while we could. With the kiva alcove being indefinitely closed to visitors, this view is no longer possible.

Admiring the carefully stacked stones of the kiva, we speculated on its history. It would have been great to learn more about the people who created it and what the site was used for. A small area, which contained some archeological digging, was roped off. A green ammo box held some information, as well as a visitor log. Flipping through it, we saw the breadth of people who had visited from all over the world. We added our names to the list.

Eventually, other hikers arrived, and we deemed it best to let them enjoy the site in peace. So we headed back the way we came. Overall, the trail is moderate, but the ascent up the rocky slope was the most difficult part for us. At the trailhead, we met a third group that was heading for the kiva.

False Kiva is a beautiful and special place, and we’re saddened that we may not be able to visit again. But, even if you can’t get as close to the kiva, it’s still a worthwhile experience. If you visit, please treat it with respect, follow all signs and restrictions, and enjoy this remarkable place.

False Kiva Trail

Date: Friday, March 30, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 715 feet (218 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including spending about 30 minutes at False Kiva
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and an obvious social trail. Even though this is not a maintained trail, it’s easy to follow.
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins, Off the beaten path
Directions to Trailhead: Ask a park ranger
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Links

• False Kiva (Wikipedia)
• Candlestick Tower (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

The post False Kiva Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

One trail we wanted to hike in Canyonlands National Park was the Syncline Loop. It’s an 8.3 mile route that surrounds Upheaval Dome in the Island in the Sky District. The trail is long and difficult, so unfortunately we didn’t have the time to do the hike. Instead, we decided to do Upheaval Dome Trail, a short 1.6 mile out and back hike. The path goes to two overlooks with views of Upheaval Dome. We hoped it would give us a glimpse of what the Syncline Loop would offer.

What is Upheaval Dome? I’m glad you asked. It’s an area roughly three miles across where the rock layers are deformed. In the center, the rocks are pushed up into a dome-like structure (an anticline). A downward fold in the rock (or syncline) surrounds the dome. What caused it? No one is quite sure, but there are two prevailing theories. The first is that it is an impact crater caused by a meteorite hitting the Earth. The second is that it’s a salt dome, where salt flows while under pressure and creates deformities in the surrounding rock over millions of years. Most recent research supports the impact crater hypothesis.

First Overlook

After checking out Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte, we drove to the end of Upheaval Dome Road. We parked in the lot for Upheaval Dome and the Syncline Loop. The trail begins on the west side of the lot. After starting the hike, we came to an intersection with Syncline Loop Trail almost immediately. It would have to wait for another time, so we kept going straight on Upheaval Dome Trail.

The trail started to ascend. The first overlook is only 0.3 miles from the intersection, so it took no time at all to get there. Situated on a large sandstone rock face, the first overlook gave us an initial view of the dome.

Greenish rocks surround a red rock formation inside the crater. We later talked to a ranger who said the green color was caused by iron, while the red is due to oxidation (rust). It looks otherworldly, but also familiar. A nearby sign gives some geological information about Upheaval Dome. Even though there are only two official “overlooks,” there are plenty of other opportunities for views into Upheaval Dome.

Second Overlook

Following rock cairns along the trail, we ascended and descended over more sandstone. The second overlook is only half a mile from the first. In places, small steps had been cut into some sandstone to assist hikers. We admonished a small boy who was rolling rocks down the sandstone. Normally, we might not say anything, but…it seemed pretty dangerous.

Surrounded by metal fencing, the second overlook was much like the first. It didn’t offer a radically different view. So if time is short, you could skip the second overlook. Nearby I found some spring wildflowers, including Indian paintbrush, which I was more interested in.

While I’m glad we did Upheaval Dome, I wasn’t particularly impressed with the hike overall. It was very cool to see the dome initially, but the hike got kind of same-y after the first overlook. The views are interesting, and I did enjoy the geology and mystery of its formation. Even though I wasn’t wowed by this trail, I’d still like to go back to do the Syncline Loop someday…maybe as a one-night backpacking trip!

Upheaval Dome Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 462 feet (141 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: Moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History
Directions to Upheaval Dome Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head north toward the Upheaval Dome Trailhead. Start on the trail, and after 250 feet, continue straight at the intersection with the Syncline Trail to continue on the Upheaval Dome Trail.
• 0.3 mi – A short (~180 feet) side trail to the right leads to the first overlook. After checking it out, head back the way you came and turn right to continue.
• 0.9 mi – At the end of the trail is the second overlook. When ready, turn around and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – The hike is finished!

Places

• Upheaval Dome | 38.437492, -109.928600
• First Overlook | 38.428919, -109.929169
• Second Overlook | 38.431669, -109.935347

Maps

• Upheaval Dome Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Upheaval Dome (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Upheaval Dome Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

A butte is a striking rock formation, defined as an isolated steep hill with often vertical sides and a flat top. It was time for us to hike to one in Canyonlands National Park. Aztec Butte is a 1.6-mile out and back that leads to the top of a butte, with a side trail to see some Puebloan ruins. We were particularly looking forward to the archeological features of the area. The drive to the Aztec Butte trailhead was only about a mile from Mesa Arch Trail, which we had just hiked.

The parking lot was fairly empty, especially compared to Mesa Arch, so we anticipated more solitude. The trail is rocky at the start, before giving way to a sandy path. After a short 0.3 miles, we reached the first intersection. Taking a right would lead us directly to Aztec Butte, but we turned left toward the Puebloan granary ruins on a separate, smaller butte. The trail took us up some slickrock, and gave us a view into Taylor Canyon in the distance. Rock cairns guided us to the granaries, which are sheltered by a rock ledge.

Alongside the ruins are some informative park signs. We learned that Ancestral Puebloans stored pots and baskets containing food, water, and seeds to be protected in the granary. We explored and took some photos. Built between 1200 and 1300 AD, the two granaries we saw seem to be well preserved. On a side note, please remember not to touch or enter them.

After checking out the granaries, we retraced our steps and continued on the main trail. At the base of Aztec Butte, we were greeted by a steep 200 foot ascent. The sandstone is beautiful, with striations in shades of red, white, and brown. It was totally exposed to the sun as we climbed, but it’s a short and enjoyable route with some scenic views.

A vaguely defined trail loops around the top of Aztec Butte. Along the loop are other structures. Some might be authentic, but others may have been constructed more recently – we didn’t see any signs at the top to explain the history, though. For example, a four-walled stone structure sits at the southeast corner of the butte.

There are other ruins scattered around the butte, but some are harder to find than others. We didn’t know it at the time, but there are granaries just below the west ridge of the butte. After exploring more, we headed back the way we came. We pondered why the site is called Aztec Butte, and thought it might be a misnomer, but we haven’t been able find a source explaining its name.

Both Aztec Butte and Mesa Arch are fun hikes with sweeping views, though they are very different. We preferred Aztec Butte Trail since it’s a longer hike with fewer crowds and a rich history. And as a bonus, we kept joking about how “butte-iful” the area is.

Aztec Butte Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 283 feet (86 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: A few other groups
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head east on Aztec Butte Trail.
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection, turn left toward the Puebloan Granaries.
• 0.4 mi – Arrive at the granaries. Explore, then head back the way you came.
• 0.6 mi – Back at the intersection, turn left toward Aztec Butte. You’ll ascend about 190 feet to the top.
• 0.8 mi – Arrive at the top of Aztec Butte. Head either way on the vaguely defined loop trail.
• 1.0 mi – Back at the start of the loop. Go back the way you came to descend.
• 1.3 mi – At the intersection with the granaries, go straight back toward the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Aztec Butte | 38.397298, -109.874844

Maps

• Aztec Butte Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Aztec Butte Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Aztec Butte Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

After setting up our tent at Willow Flat Campground in Canyonlands National Park, it was time to go hiking! We were in Island in the Sky, the most easily accessible district of the park. The two closest hikes to the campground are Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte. We planned to hike both, and we started with Mesa Arch Trail.

If you’ve ever seen a photo of Canyonlands, odds are it was of Mesa Arch. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the park. The arch is situated on the edge of a cliff, with a view of canyons, mountains, and other rock formations beyond. It’s also a popular place for sunrise photos – time it right and you can frame the sun as it rises through the arch. We weren’t too concerned about getting a sunrise shot, but we still got there early in the morning.

We found a parking spot, and started down the dusty trail. The route is an easy 0.7 mile loop, and it was crowded. Almost immediately, the canyons and snow-capped La Sal Mountains became visible in the distance. We passed several small signs with information about various native plants. I enjoy seeing these on trails, since it helps me learn more about the flora in the area.

Mesa Arch

After 10-15 minutes of hiking, we arrived at the 27 foot long Mesa Arch. It features a wide scenic view into Buck Canyon. I think the arches in Arches National Park are more picturesque (who would’ve thought?), though the view here is striking. From the canyon to the rock formations to the La Sal Mountains, there are so many sights to take in. Mesa Arch frames the canyon landscape beautifully. If you look closely toward the east from Mesa Arch, you can also see Washer Woman Arch.

There was a crowd of people waiting to take a picture with the arch, so we got in line. Unfortunately, there were a few people who didn’t seem to care about the line, and they just walked up to the arch and got their photos. We weren’t too surprised. It’s more likely that you’ll run into visitors who are unfamiliar with hiking etiquette on easy, short, popular trails. This was completely different from the experience we had at the challenging 3.2 mile trail to Delicate Arch.

Mesa Arch is a “pothole arch” that formed when water on the ground pooled near sandstone, slowly eroding it until it formed a hole. This arch looks different from most of the ones found in Arches NP because those are primarily formed from sandstone fins (there are many fins in Arches NP, but significantly fewer in Canyonlands).

After we finally got our photo with Mesa Arch, we walked around and admired the scenery before continuing on. After a short walk, which included some stone steps and more plant signs, we completed the loop and returned to the parking lot. Near the end, we could see our next destination in the distance: Aztec Butte. While Mesa Arch was a must-see for us, we don’t consider it one of the best hikes in the park. And after hiking it, we were ready for a longer and more challenging hike, with more solitude.

Mesa Arch Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Loop day hike
Total Distance: 0.7 miles (1.1 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 94 feet (29 m)
Time: 1 hour, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A lot. Everywhere.
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, Plants
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – At the trailhead, go counterclockwise (right path). You could go either direction on the loop though.
• 0.3 mi – Arrive at Mesa Arch, then continue back on the trail to complete the loop.
• 0.7 mi – Arrive back at the parking lot

Places

• Mesa Arch | 38.3885673, -109.8668391
• Washer Woman Arch | 38.388989, -109.837127

Maps

• Isle in the Sky Map (NPS)

Links

• Mesa Arch (NPS)
• Washer Woman Arch (Wikipedia)
• Airport Tower (Wikipedia)
• Monster Tower (Wikipedia)

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The post Mesa Arch Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

It was our intention to backpack in Island in the Sky. But we looked for backcountry campsites too late, and most of the good ones were already taken. Also, once in the park, we decided we’d rather explore a bit before jumping into backpacking. With that in mind, we wanted to stay one night at Willow Flat.

Island in the Sky…that is what we are

After driving into the park, we made a quick stop at the Visitor Center in hopes that a backcountry site had opened up. Unfortunately (but not unexpectedly), none had, so we headed to Willow Flat. It’s a small first-come, first-served campground, with only 12 sites. We usually reserve campsites ahead of time, but this time, we winged it (though we made sure to arrive early). And…it turned out fine. There were 3-4 sites available when we got there at 10:20 am.

We grabbed site 8 for only $15/night. Thankfully we had some cash on us. Each campsite has the usual amenities – fire pit and picnic table – as well as a nice ramada which provided some shade. You can’t go wrong with any campsite, but it’s worth noting that site 6 is accessible (ADA) and reserved at all times for people with disabilities only.

Willow Flat has few amenities. There’s no water available, but the nearby visitor center does have potable water. We brought plastic water jugs just in case too. The campground has two pit toilets, and thankfully they were clean. While setting up our tent, we noted how scenic the campground is. Afterward, we headed out to hike. 

Later that day, we relaxed at our site and enjoyed the surrounding beauty. We didn’t have any firewood to cook dinner (you’ll need to bring your own, as it’s not sold in the campground), so we relied on some dehydrated meals we had brought for backpacking. After dinner, we headed a short distance down the road to Green River Overlook. The view from the overlook is spectacular, and I recommend it even if you’re not staying at the campground.

Back at our campsite, we got ready for bed. The campground was so quiet and peaceful. In the morning, we scavenged for breakfast, and then packed up. At this point, the campground was full – some other visitors arrived and asked if they could take our spot. I guess we got lucky the previous day. Even though we only stayed one night in Willow Flat, we really enjoyed it and would have loved to stay longer. It’s a perfect place for exploring the park. And it certainly beat driving in from Moab every day.

Willow Flat Campground | 12 Campsites

Date Visited: March 29, 2018
Location: 10 miles from the park’s main entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities:  Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Ramada | Vault Toilets | Trash and Recycling (Note: Firewood is NOT sold here)
Dates Open: Year Round (Most popular spring through fall)
Prices: $15/night for individual tent campsite (bring cash or check). You can also pay with credit card at the visitor center, if open.
Reservations: None. All sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Views, Located in the Park
Best Sites: You can’t go wrong with any site.
Notes: No potable water. Check-out time is 10:00 am. Campsite #6 is ADA and reserved at all times for people with disabilities only.

Places

• Willow Flat Campground | 38.383320, -109.888232
• Green River Overlook | 38.383320, -109.888232

Maps

• Willow Flat Campground Map (KTNPBlog)

Links

• Willow Flat Campground (NPS)
• Cryptobiotic Soil Article (NPS)

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Moab Eats

One of our favorite Moab spots, 98 Center (named after its address), has a thoughtful and creative menu. They specialize in Asian (primarily Vietnamese) fusion in a trendy yet casual atmosphere. On our first visit, we ordered a pork banh mi and pho to share. The pho broth was delicious, with a light but well-developed flavor. Travis enjoyed it with a squeeze of fresh lime. We chatted with our waitress about how the restaurant caters to various diets (such as vegan, vegetarian, paleo, and keto) and how she’s influenced the menu.

We loved the cozy vibe, friendly and knowledgeable wait staff, and unique menu items so much we went back for a second visit. And did I mention the banh mi nachos?? So delicious, and they even put vegan cheese on mine.

The line was out the door when we arrived at Love Muffin Cafe. Once we made our way to the front, we both ordered the Bomber Burrito. I asked for no cheese (since I’m sensitive to dairy), and requested that it be marked since we got the same thing. They have a few vegan muffin options, including the Good Morning which has carrots and raisins, and Cranberry Bran, which I decided to try. Next, we found a spot at the “bar” and made ourselves at home. The food was tasty and the place has a funky vibe. The only thing I didn’t like was that my sandwich was not marked, as promised, and yes – they were mixed up.

During our visit in 2018, Travis waited in the line at the popular Quesadilla Mobilla while I went shopping around the corner. I had contemplated getting “The Vegan,” but didn’t for a few reasons. First, we had just finished breakfast. Second, their menu states that they don’t recommend that option. Maybe it’s a joke (I get it, it’s a quesadilla place), but that’s a terrible business move. Travis got the chicken one, and said it was amazing. It looked crispy and had lots of filling. If I could have eaten it, I would have!

Fast forward to 2019, and this time I wasn’t going to miss out. After waiting in another long line, the server said any quesadilla could be made with beans instead of cheese. I can’t even remember which I decided on, but guess what – it was delicious! And Travis’s, which had cheese of course, looked and smelled great too.

Milt’s is a super casual diner and a Moab institution. It was exactly the atmosphere we were looking for after a day of exploring Arches NP. Most of the seating is outdoors, but an employee announced that there were spots inside. It had gotten a bit chilly, so we headed in and sat at the bar. Travis ordered a bacon cheeseburger and tots. I ordered a buffalo burger and onion rings. It took about 35 mins, which they warned us about in advance. That also gave me time to enjoy the classic – even obscure – country tunes they were playing, which I happen to enjoy.

The food came out hot, and my onion rings were crispy and delicious. They had “fry sauce” on the counter (which the waiter said was a mix of ketchup, mayo, salt, and pepper) which was amazing. I snagged a few tots from Travis and they were nice and crispy on the outside too. Travis got an Oreo milkshake, which he said was good, but it wasn’t as thick as he would like, and chunks of cookie got stuck in the straw. But in my opinion, if you’re gonna get an Oreo milkshake, you can’t really complain about that. Travis said Snack Shack near Redwood NP had a better shake, but he still recommends Milt’s.

We didn’t eat at Sabaku Sushi on our first trip because we questioned how good a sushi place in the middle of Utah could possibly be. It turns out – very. They have plenty of spicy options. In fact, if you’re sensitive to spice, you may want to ask your server to ensure you know what you’re getting.

We shared the Fiery Furnace Roll, which is spicy tuna plus tempura bits on the outside, and spicy sauce on top (which I removed). We also got a Rainbow Bridge Roll which is a standard rainbow roll with fresh fish on top. Travis got tempura which he enjoyed, but some pieces (such as sweet potato) were not cooked through. The Sandstone Crunch Roll – shishito pepper, tempura, avocado, and salmon – was tasty, but one super spicy bite left Travis almost in tears. He got mochi ice cream afterward to calm his palate (so he claimed).

Moab Garage Co. is a surprising name for an ice cream shop – it’s named after the car repair shop that occupied the space from 1928 to 1975. Each serving of ice cream is made to order with liquid nitrogen, and either a dairy or coconut milk base. I got the blueberry basil, which ended up being my fave since it was refreshing and not overly sweet.

On our next visit, I got chocolate (with pretzels and almonds), which was tasty but a bit too sweet for me. Be mindful that some ingredients are not vegan (e.g. the cookie dough contains butter); fortunately the staff is very friendly and forthcoming with allergen info. On one of our visits, they warned me that a few chocolate chips with dairy had gotten in my coconut milk-based ice “cream,” and offered to remake it. I didn’t take them up on it, but I appreciated the offer.

The food at Moab Kitchen was vegan, homey, and unique. The setting was very hippy-esque and laid-back. It appeared that we were literally dining in the backyard / outdoor living room of the chef-owner. We shared a curry dish made with four different veggies including eggplant, jackfruit, and cabbage. While we aren’t vegan, the food was fun and flavorful. We also shared a delicious samosa. If we had stopped there, it would have been an awesome experience.

The cupcakes, which were also vegan, seemed store-bought and didn’t excite me. When I opened my chocolate cupcake, I was shocked to see that it had mold on top. I took it back to the chef; he swore, then gave me a new one. After a thorough check, I tasted it and decided it was only okay. But because of the experience with the first cupcake, I only had a small bite and wasn’t willing to eat the rest. In retrospect, I should have asked for my money back.

Travis loves craft beer, so he always ends up dragging me to at least one brewery. Moab Brewery was probably the weakest food we had in Moab. My salmon burger was dry and flavorless. The fries seemed okay at the start, but as they cooled off, they were blah. In a town full of fun and eclectic restaurants, it felt boring and forgettable. Maybe we ordered the wrong thing. Next time I suggested looking up which local restaurants have specific craft beers that Travis wants to try (there must be an app for that), so I can get good food too. We could always swing by the brewery to pick up a souvenir pint glass later. And on the plus side, Travis did enjoy the beer.

Moab has a fun food scene that’s one of a kind. There are a few places we still didn’t make it to. On our list for next time: Moab Spitfire Smokehouse (a BBQ food truck that closes early if they sell out), El Charro Loco, Miguel’s Baja Grill, and Arches Thai. At least that’s the plan, if we can drag ourselves away from the pho and quesadillas.

Moab Accommodations, etc.

Another thing I like about Moab: Main Street. I love places where the main street is actually called Main Street. This one is a great place to stretch your legs and take in the sights. It’s touristy though, with a seemingly endless line of cars entering Moab from the park. Of course, we’ve only visited during spring break, when Moab has its “Jeep Week,” which is exactly what it sounds like. But people here seemed pretty chill and laid-back.

Indigo Alley is a cute little shop with cool clothes, accessories, and personal care products. The shop owner was very personable and I chatted with her as I browsed the selection of sunglasses and leggings. She said she had been living in the area for almost 30 years.

One morning, we did laundry at Moab Laundry Express. It’s located in a little house just off main street. We walked in and immediately got sticker shock. But the machines looked nice…and we were already there, so we gave it a go. The machines washed and dried our clothes with no issues, so we can’t complain. They had everything you need, including machines that dispense laundry detergent and swap out your bills for change. We had gotten quarters at the hotel and brought a small packet of laundry detergent from home, but it would’ve worked out either way.

We stayed at Inca Inn in 2018 and had a good experience, so we booked another stay in 2019. Their motel-style rooms are reasonably priced and clean. The shower had weak water pressure, and colorful lights on the showerhead which I thought were pointless (though Travis liked them). It was quiet, with basic amenities such as an older style tv (which we didn’t watch anyway). There weren’t many electrical outlets, but the side table had a power strip which included three USB ports.

While there are plenty of hotel options in town, we appreciated Inca Inn’s friendly staff, clean rooms, comfy bed (more so than most we’ve stayed at), and proximity to Arches NP. A basic breakfast (when we visited they had things like oatmeal packets, hard boiled eggs, cereal, toast, jam, peanut butter, juice, milk, water, and all-day coffee) is included. Think “grab and go” for your adventure in the park. One morning, they only had original unflavored oatmeal, so I asked the hostess and she brought me some flavored options which I really appreciated (it’s the little things, right?). Also, the hot water in their lobby is always HOT, which is more than I can say about other places.

We had a blast in Moab on both our visits, and we can’t wait to go back. It’s a fun place to explore, and it boasts a variety of quirky and delicious restaurants. Best of all, it’s right down the road from Arches National Park.

Links

• Restaurants
  • 98 Center | 98 East Center St. Moab, UT 84532
  • Love Muffin Cafe | 139 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Quesadilla Mobilla | 95 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Milt’s Stop & Eat | 356 S Mill Creek Dr, Moab, UT 84532
  • Sabaku Sushi | 90 E Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Garage Co. | 78 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Kitchen | 180 W Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Brewery | 686 S Main St, Moab, UT 84532
• Shops
  • Indigo Alley | 77 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Laundry Express LLC | 16 W 100 N, Moab, UT 84532
• Accommodations
  • Inca Inn | 570 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532

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