T’s Top 5 things to do in Acadia National Park

1. Duck Harbor Campground: The ideal campground.  Quiet and secluded, with amazing views and hikes nearby.  We were there for 3 nights, the maximum allowed.  Staying here allowed us to explore Isle au Haut and was my favorite part of our Acadia trip.
2. The Beehive Trail: My favorite hike we did.  I’ve never done one before that had me climbing iron rungs up a cliff.  It was exhilarating, and a fun feature to climb on the rocks with.  It’s not a long hike, but it’ll be an experience that we’ll remember forever.
3. Bar Harbor: One thing we love doing is trying out different restaurants while vacationing.  Bar Harbor allowed us to do that – there were tons of places to indulge the foodie in us.  And I really enjoyed going to Atlantic Brewing Company to get a tasting of their beers.
4. Duck Harbor Mountain Trail: This great hike is right next to Duck Harbor Campground.  If you take the full loop, which you should, it goes up the mountain for great views of the harbor, then down and around the coastline for great beaches and forests.  It goes through a variety of different environments, and special nooks and crannies.
5. Stonington: This town is what comes to mind when I think about small-town Maine.  Lobster boats, docks, quiet, and peaceful.  It was really fun to explore the town, and made a great basecamp for catching the mail boat to Isle au Haut.

K’s Top 5 things to do in Acadia National Park

1. Pemetic Mountain Hike: I was impressed with the views and terrain on this hike. And summer in Maine made it perfect. As a bonus, you can start your journey from Jordan Pond House.
2. Squeaker Cove: This is a small rocky beach on Isle au Haut. I loved the whole experience at IAH, but Squeaker Cove is a standout. It was so peaceful and secluded. If I think back, I can still hear the sound of the rocks getting jostled by the waves, and feel the cool ocean breeze.
3. Stonington: A quintessential Maine town. I loved seeing the boats, the dock, and the lobster traps. I loved staying in a well thought-out room that was the size of a postage stamp. If you go, grab some local seafood while enjoying a harbor view!
4. Bar Harbor Sandbar: I loved the town of Bar Harbor, with its parks, ocean views, and shops. But the coolest part was walking through town at different times of day and being able to access the island during low tide. After all, that’s what gave BH its name.
5. Unique hikes: I haven’t seen iron obstacles anywhere else (though I’m sure they exist) and it’s such a fun feature. It’s like being a kid again!

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Precipice Trail and Jordan Cliffs Trail – The “sister” hikes to the Beehive and Beech Cliff Trails that also have iron rungs.  Both were closed due to Peregrine Falcon nesting, which happens annually in the summer.
• Schoodic Woods Campground – The only campground in Acadia we didn’t visit!  We only planned for one partial day in Schoodic.  If we had more time, we would have spent a couple days there.
• Cadillac Mountain at Sunrise – We actually did go up to Cadillac Mountain, but in the early afternoon.  The views would have been nice, if it weren’t for all the people.  Because of that, we wouldn’t recommend going there unless it was for sunrise or hiking a trail to the top.
• Biking the carriage roads – We weren’t very interested in this before our visit.  Once there, we really wished we had been able to go biking.

Our Acadia Tips

• If you go to Duck Harbor Campground, stay for the maximum of 3 nights so you have enough time to explore.
• Stay in Loop A or B in Seawall Campground.
• Despite its size, Blackwoods Campground is a great place to stay if you want to see all of Acadia’s main sites on Mt. Desert Island.
• Some trails close during Peregrine Falcon nesting from March through August.  Visit at another time, if possible.
• Enjoy the unique towns that surround the park.
• Check out a Ranger Program.  We went to an interesting Stargazing Program at Sand Beach.  The rangers told tales about the stars based on Native American stories, and gave other historical background about the constellations.
• If you only have a few days and haven’t been to Acadia before, stick to Mt. Desert Island.  If you have a week, add a visit to Isle au Haut and Duck Harbor.  If you have more time, check out Schoodic Peninsula.
• If you have to skip something, skip Schoodic.  We highly recommend Mt. Desert Island and Isle au Haut.

Map of Everything We Did in Acadia

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Schoodic Point

The drive to Schoodic Point from the Schoodic Institute is quick.  We parked, and hopped out of the car to see a giant slab of uneven multi-colored rock.  The waves were crashing into the rocky shoreline in different places, so we kept our eyes open for a good photo spot.  We scrambled around on the huge rock outcropping to capture photos of the waves.  Some visitors were getting close to the waves, but we kept a safe distance.

There were a decent amount of people around the day we visited.  We saw visitors taking photos, exploring the rock formations, and just soaking up some sun.  It would also make a nice picnic spot.  Schoodic Point was the highlight of my day (although K claims that Schoodic Institute was her favorite part).  But despite its uniqueness, we thought that other parts of Acadia were more impressive.  We enjoyed the views and peaceful atmosphere, snapped some photos, and then we were ready for a hike.

Schoodic Head Trail

There are quite a few trails in Schoodic, and even a new trail system to reflect the historic character of the carriage roads on Mt. Desert Island.  Time was limited, but we wanted to hike one more trail, since it was our last day in Acadia.  So we choose a 2.6 mile loop up to Schoodic Head.  Schoodic Head is only at an elevation of 440 feet, so it’s not a particularly hard hike.  We drove from Schoodic Point over to the parking lot at Blueberry Hill.

We started on the Anvil Trail, which was across the road from the parking area.  The trail went up and down and passed through some interesting rock formations.  I banged my knee on one of them, and my knee started twitching every time I bent it.  I’m very clumsy.  Thankfully, I was able to complete the hike without any other issues!  This part of the hike was only 0.8 miles long, but about 0.3 miles in, there is a nice vista near a large rock outcropping known as “the anvil.”

Once done with the Anvil Trail, we were pretty much at the top, and it was only a short distance on the Schoodic Head Trail to the summit.  There are good views, but we had to search for them, as much of the summit is forested.  After getting some photos we headed back the way we came on Schoodic Head Trail, then continued on past the Anvil Trail.  Near the summit we saw a research station for studying bats.  We were curious, as we’ve seen similar things in other parks, but there was limited information.  The Schoodic Head Trail continued south for another 0.5 miles.

The Schoodic Head Trail deposited us onto a dirt road.  In a tenth of a mile or so, the road disappeared, and we were on the Alder Trail.  It’s a fairly uninteresting trail that led us back 0.6 miles to the Blueberry Hill Parking lot.  While the loop trail was a nice walk, it didn’t compare to the trails we hiked in other parts of the park.  Since it was our last experience in Acadia, it was a bit of a letdown.  But before driving back to Bangor, we decided to grab dinner in Winter Harbor, the closest town to Schoodic Peninsula.

Winter Harbor

Winter Harbor is a small town, with limited restaurants and attractions.  We were divided between two restaurants that we found: Raven’s Nest and Fisherman’s Galley.  Ultimately, we chose Fisherman’s Galley.  We think it ended up being a good choice.  The burger, fries, and beer (or wine for K) was exactly what we needed.  They have the usual lobster rolls too, but somewhat regrettably, we didn’t try them.

We discussed our day as we ate.  The consensus was that Schoodic is unique and worth the visit if you have time, but we’d recommend MDI and Duck Harbor more highly.  However, we wished we had more time to explore Schoodic, particularly the carriage roads, campground, and other trails.  The highlights were the Schoodic Research Institute and Schoodic Point, so that’s what we recommend if you have limited time.

And with that, our vacation was over.  We had already loaded up our car, so we headed down the road to Bangor, where we would fly home the next day.  As we drove, we chatted about our trip and decided that we would definitely revisit Acadia someday.

Schoodic Head Trail
Distance: 2.6 miles / 4.2 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Loop
Elevation Gain: 608 feet / 185 meters
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A couple groups of people, but plenty of solitude
Water: Oceans, but we didn’t see any type of fresh water.
Directions to Parking at Blueberry Hill: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the Blueberry Hill Parking lot, walk north on the road for about 0.1 miles until you reach the Anvil Trailhead on the left side.
• Mile 0.1 – Ascend the Anvil Trail.
• Mile 0.4 – You’ve reached “the anvil,” a rock outcropping.  Continue hiking up.
• Mile 1.2 – This area is a bit confusing, with multiple intersecting trails.  Continue north toward Schoodic Head along the Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.3 – You’ve reached Schoodic Head at 440 ft, so take in the views, and then head back the way you came on Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – When you get to the intersection with the Anvil Trail, continue on Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Schoodic Head Trail ends, and deposits you onto a dirt “road” called Ranger Cabin Road.  Head south, or left as you turn off the Schoodic Head Trail.  After a short while, connect onto the Alder Trail.
• Mile 2.6 – The Alder trail ends at the road, at Blueberry Hill Parking Lot, completing the loop.

Highlights: Views, rocky scramble areas
Notes: The attached map and elevation below specifies the hike as a 2.5 mile because it excludes the starting portion on the road.

Places
Schoodic Point | 44.3345092, -68.068083
Blueberry Hill Parking | 44.3391124, -68.0461742
Fisherman’s Galley | 7 Newman St., Winter Harbor, ME 04693

Maps
Schoodic Head Loop Trail Map (KTNPBlog)

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One way to get to Schoodic Peninsula is to take a seasonal ferry between Bar Harbor and Winter Harbor (the closest town to Schoodic).  There are two companies that run them, Downeast Windjammer and Frenchman Bay Research Boating.  The Island Explorer shuttle, which travels throughout Schoodic, stops in Winter Harbor to pick up ferry passengers.  Due to limited time, we decided to drive instead.  We checked out from Seawall Campground and drove about an hour and a half to Schoodic.  We wanted to see as much as we could in a day.

Our first stop was the Schoodic Information Center.  It’s not quite a “visitor center,” but it seems to serve that purpose.  There is also a tiny ranger station as you approach Schoodic Institute.  We talked to volunteers and rangers about what to do with our limited time.  We also bought a Schoodic trail map for 50 cents, because it was larger and more detailed than the one we already had.

Schoodic Institute

From the information center, we drove down to our first stop:  The Schoodic Institute.  The institute is a research and education center that supports science and education throughout Acadia and the region.  Its campus is a former U.S. Navy Base, which was closed in 2002.  The land was given to the park, and now comprises multiple facilities supporting the institute.  We drove in, not quite knowing what to expect.

Our first stop was Rockefeller Hall, the welcome center for the institute.  The building itself is historic, built in 1933 to house Navy personnel.  Designed in a unique style, it houses multiple exhibits related to Acadia NP.  We had a lot of fun with them, because most were hands-on activities about nature or about the previous military use of the land…that were designed for kids.  Naturally, we figured we’d give them a try!

One station made a game of decoding Morse Code messages.  Even though it was designed with children in mind, we had fun transcribing messages and learning about the history of the park.  One person could send out numbers in Morse code, while the other would try to interpret.

Another station had a wheel that you could turn to view the moon phases and wildlife activity during each season in that part of Maine.  You could also collect stamps of various animal tracks, hypothesize what animal created them, then check your answer.  This seemed like a fun and educational activity for kids of all ages.  Yes, we collected these too!

Sundew Trail

When looking at the map for Schoodic Institute, I couldn’t help but zero in on a nearby hike called the Sundew Trail.  It piqued my curiosity since we had found sundews, a small carnivorous plant, on other trails in Acadia like Duck Harbor Trail.  So after visiting Rockefeller Hall, we took a short drive and parked near the baseball diamonds where the trail begins (the campus has a lot of facilities).  You can start from either side of the trail, and then walk the paths that go around the institute to make a loop.

At only 0.7 miles, Sundew Trail is easy and quick.  It’s a nice walk through the woods, with the highlights being some boardwalks and viewpoints.  There are at least three small spurs that lead to the coast.  We stopped for lunch at the first one, which was a cozy spot with a view of the ocean.  Sadly, the trail’s name is misleading.  Maybe at one time there were sundews here, but we certainly didn’t see any along the trail.  We did see a couple people on the trail, but otherwise it was quiet.  After finishing the trail we walked the extra 0.2 miles or so back to the car.  While walking on the paths back to our car we did spot the largest rabbit we’ve ever seen.

Fun games, an easy trail with coastal views, a giant rabbit, but no sundews.  You decide.

Sundew Trail
Distance: 0.7 miles / 1.1 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Out and back (Can make a loop with paved trails around the Institute)
Elevation Gain: Negligible
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: Hardly anyone.  We saw one other couple.
Water: Oceans, but we didn’t see any type of fresh water.
Directions to Parking: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the parking lot, next to the baseball field, the trail is across the street.  Head there and you’ll see a trailhead sign.  Continue onto the trail.
• Mile 0.7 – You’re finished.  Either turn around to get back to the car, or take the paved paths to make a loop of sorts.

Highlights: Boardwalks and views
Notes: With walking on the paved path back to your car for the loop, the total trip is about 0.9 miles

Places
Schoodic Information Center | 44.380219, -68.066400
The Schoodic Institute | 9 Atterbury Cir, Winter Harbor, ME 04693
Rockefeller Hall | 44.3379743, -68.0622867
Sundew Trailhead | 44.340250, -68.060667

Links
NPS Website – Acadia Camping
Recreation.gov – Schoodic Campground Reservations
Frenchman Bay Research Boating (Schoodic Ferry)
Downeast Windjammer Cruise Lines (Schoodic Ferry)
Island Explorer Acadia Shuttle (Schoodic Route)

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Southwest Harbor is also the closest town to Seawall Campground. Compared to Bar Harbor, it’s much smaller. There are fewer restaurants and stores, but that didn’t dissuade us from exploring it!

Restaurants

When we first arrived at Seawall Campground, it was already late, so we decided to go out for dinner. We had heard about a Mexican restaurant called XYZ; its name comes from the different regions of Mexico (Xalapa, Yucatan, and Zacatecas). It sounded interesting, though people had mentioned online that it was overpriced. Someone had recommended another Mexican place in Ellsworth, but unfortunately that had closed and was pretty far away anyway. So we decided to give XYZ a try. 

When we arrived at XYZ, the place was pretty crowded, but we were able to squeeze into some seats at the bar. The website stated that they have a full bar, so I asked the bartender if he could mix me several different things, but he didn’t have the liquor that was required (so…not a full bar). Eventually I decided on a margarita (the bartender’s recommendation) with sugar on the rim. It was okay, but nothing special. Which was pretty disappointing, considering we were at a Mexican place, and this seemed to be the only drink the bartender was able to make.

After we ordered our entrees, they brought us salad, which consisted of a few lettuce leaves on a plate with a side of oil, lime, and some pepper. I ate it because I was hungry, but it was probably the most boring salad I’ve ever had. They also brought us the tiniest serving of bread I have ever seen.

When our entrees arrived, they looked like something that had been sitting on a counter under a heat lamp for a bit too long. My Cochinita was okay. The beans and rice were palatable, but not very flavorful. The meat was not as tender as I would have liked. And I’ve had great marinated onions at lots of places, from local hole-in-the-wall places to Cava, but these didn’t compare favorably. T’s dinner was also disappointing. He ordered Chiles Rellenos (one of his fave Mexican dishes) but said it didn’t taste good.

Overall, staff was friendly and quirky, and decor was curiously inviting, with various political posters in Spanish that caught my attention. I speak some Spanish, so I enjoyed trying to read them. Other guests seemed like they were having a good time, and the restaurant seemed to accommodate several larger parties. For us, the food was just too expensive for the quality. Our dinner bill, which included two drinks, came to $85 (excluding tip).

A couple days later, we decided to check out Sips for breakfast. It is a cozy neighborhood spot with small, high-top tables and a wine bar. The decor made the place feel very homey and comfortable. After perusing the menu and chatting with the friendly waitress, I decided on a breakfast sandwich – an everything bagel with egg, sausage, tomato, and avocado. They have a variety of toppings, so you can customize your order. I also got a side of home fries.

My food came, and the sandwich was beautiful. I know that’s a weird thing to say about a breakfast sandwich, but see the picture below. The home fries were about average. T got french toast which looked amazing. Overall, the food was simple, but high quality and thoughtfully prepared. This meal came to about $14 total (excluding tip). Totally worth it. Next time, we’ll skip XYZ and come here.

Shops

After breakfast we took a stroll through Southwest Harbor. After perusing some clothing and trinket shops, we ended up at Sawyer’s Market. Their selection of chocolate included many different flavors and brands from a variety of countries. Naturally, we each bought one, even though they were pricey.

T also picked up a bottle of Coal Porter beer from Atlantic Brewing Company at Sawyer’s. He had tried it during our tasting at Mainely Meat, and wanted to bring one home. Though some items were expensive, this shop had a great selection of novelty items as well as groceries and baked goods. Plus, it’s right on Main Street.

Though we spent only a short time in Southwest Harbor, it seemed to be a quaint Maine town with a low-key vibe. We saw some beautiful views, got some great food, took a relaxing stroll along Main Street, and even satisfied some snack and drink cravings. 

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Southwest Harbor | Google Maps
XYZ Restaurant | 80 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Sips | 4 Clark Point Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Sawyer’s Market | 344 Main St, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679

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Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse

The lighthouse is iconic.  It’s featured prominently on art and souvenirs from Acadia, so we had to check it out.  The lighthouse is an easy 5-minute drive from Seawall.  The parking lot is small, so be prepared to wait during the summer.  But it doesn’t take long to view the lighthouse, so visitors will come and go pretty fast.  We got lucky, and found a parking spot right away.

Built in 1858, the lighthouse marks the entrance to Bass Harbor.  It’s the only lighthouse on Mt. Desert Island, and in 1988, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places.  Today, the lighthouse is a private residence for the commander of the local Coast Guard unit, according to the Acadia NP website.  So naturally, visitors can’t go inside.  I would imagine the residents would get tired of visitors coming at all hours of the day, so be respectful, as always!

Once parked, we noticed two paths on either side of the lighthouse.  First, we went down the path to the right, which led directly to the lighthouse, and gave us great views of the ocean and surrounding area.  We got a few nice closeup photos of the lighthouse.

We headed back the parking lot, and went to the left of the lighthouse.  This path is the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse Trail, which first leads into the forest.  We then descended a steep wooden staircase to the rocky coastline.  From there, we scrambled around to get photos of the lighthouse, ocean, and cliffs all in one shot.  There were a lot of people doing the same thing, so be patient!  We think we got some pretty good photos, not to mention memories!  This spot was where we attempted to recreate those scenic lighthouse photos that had inspired us.

Beech Cliff Trail

After getting our iconic photo of Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse, we drove to the Beech Cliff trail.  The trailhead is located next to Echo Lake, a popular swimming spot.  The lake boasts the only other sandy beach in the park aside from the appropriately named Sand Beach.  We easily found a parking spot, and started on the trail.

Initially, Beech Cliff is pretty easy going, but the trail quickly start gaining elevation.  We noticed signs and tools around that indicated that the trail was currently being maintained.  On trips, we often wonder how long has each trail been around, and hypothesize (and later, research) about the history of the trails we’re hiking on.  A Google search generally doesn’t bring up a lot of historical information, unless it’s a big name trail.  How long has the Beech Cliff Trail been in Acadia?  Who built it?  For the moment, it’s nice to know that it’s being taken care of, and not to take it for granted.  When we got home, a quick Google search did turn up that the Beech Cliff trail was built by the CCC in the 1930’s.

Before too long, our hike led us to a nice viewpoint of Echo Lake beach.  K suggested visiting the beach after our hike.  We took a short break, snapped some pictures, grabbed an energy bar, and continued on.  Soon, we came to our first iron ladder.  K went up first, and let out a yelp!  Worried, I ask if she was okay.  Laughing, she explained that a red squirrel, which had been sitting at the top of the ladder, had jumped and scared her.  Not quite what I was expecting!

We went up a few more ladders and stone steps until we reached the end of the trail.  It is a unique trail, particularly because of the iron features.  At the top, we opted to do the 0.4 mile Beech Cliff Loop Trail, which offered impressive views of Echo Lake and the surrounding area.  We also ran into some workers doing trail maintenance, and we made sure to thank them.  A lot of time and effort goes into maintaining the trails we use.

Canada Cliff Trail

We don’t recommend taking Beech Cliff trail back down, since you could run into people climbing up the ladders. Instead, we made a loop with the Canada Cliff Trail.  I wish I knew why the trail was named that.  Regardless, we made our way down the mountain, hiking over roots and rocks.  Along the way, we ran into a couple looking for a fire tower.  Not having seen a fire tower in the area, we took out our maps.

Turns out there was a fire tower, but it was at the summit of Beech Mountain – which was the opposite direction from where the couple was headed.  They turned around and headed back up the trail – both Beech Mountain Trail and Beach Mountain Valley Trail lead there.  Hopefully next time we’ll get to see the tower, which was also built by the CCC.  Acadia has so much to discover, even if you’ve already done a lot of research.

Soon we were back at the parking lot.  But before we left, we wanted to check out Echo Lake!  It’s hard for us to relax sometimes, since there’s so much we want to do when we’re on vacation.  Echo Lake provided an opportunity to relax, enjoy the view, and discuss our dinner plans.  We chatted about either going back to Bar Harbor, or checking out Southwest Harbor.  A girl nearby overheard us and chimed in that Southwest Harbor didn’t offer too much in the way of restaurants.  We took her suggestion and went to Bar Harbor, for the last time on our trip, and ate at Finback Alehouse.  We would still go to Southwest Harbor, but it would be for breakfast the next day instead!

This was a nice hike, highlighted by the views and ladders.  We wished the trail was a bit longer, but it was okay since we were pretty tired that day.  Plus, that gave us some time to hang out on the beach and grab some great food and drink in Bar Harbor.

Beech Cliff Trail
Distance: 2.2 miles / 3.7 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Loop
Elevation Gain: 720 feet / 220 meters
Difficulty: Moderate, mainly for the metal ladders, easy otherwise
Crowds: We didn’t see anyone else on the ladders, but ran into a couple groups at the top and on the Canada Cliff Trail
Water: A couple of easy stream crossings near the end of the Canada Cliff Trail
Directions to Parking at Echo Lake Beach: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the Echo Lake Parking lot, head north to the trailhead.  You should see a building/house on your right.  Start ascending the trail through switchbacks, and eventually ladders.
• Mile 0.4 – You’ve climbed all the ladders (sad) and are at the top of Beech Cliff.  Turn right to go onto the Beech Cliff Loop Trail.  At a fork in the road, you can choose to go counterclockwise or clockwise on the loop – both are good options.
• Mile 0.9 – You’ve completed the loop; head straight onto Canada Cliff Trail, which will descend the mountain
• Mile 1.5 – The trail intersects with the Valley Trail, but bear left to continue on the Canada Cliff Trail
• Mile 2.1 – The trail will end on the road.  Take a short walk back to the Echo Lake Beach Parking Lot
• Mile 2.2 – Back at the parking lot.  Check out the lake if you haven’t already!

Highlights: Iron ladders, views, Echo Lake Beach

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse | Bass Harbor, ME 04653 | Open daily, 9am – sunset
Echo Lake Beach | 44.3149522, -68.3366646

Maps:
Beech Cliff Trail Map (KTNPBlog)

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Soon we were back in Stonington.  And hungry.  We got a recommendation from the mail boat captain to visit a nearby restaurant called Whale’s Rib Tavern. After driving about 15 minutes, we discovered that they didn’t open until 5 pm.  So we headed back to Stonington.  There aren’t a ton of options, so we thought we’d revisit Fisherman’s Friend.  Which was also closed.  So we ended up at Harbor Cafe, on Main Street in Stonington.  We didn’t expect much, but it was just what we needed.  It was cozy and simply decorated with a partial view of the harbor.  For more details, check out our Stonington post.  After lunch, we started the hour and a half drive back to MDI.  And our next stop:  Seawall Campground.

Seawall Campground would be our lodging for the next two nights.  It’s located on the western half of MDI, which is slower paced, and there are fewer hikes and attractions.  But there’s still plenty to see and do.  As we drove along, we passed through Southwest Harbor on MDI, and then a residential area with firewood for sale, until we met the magnificent Maine coast again.  And then we arrived at the campground.  Like Blackwoods, this is a big campground with over 200 sites.

Unlike Blackwoods, we could reserve a specific site.  Ours was D-015, which had a short hike in.  We parked our car, grabbed our gear, and then headed to the site to set up our tent.  It was a bit of a maze to find our site, with paths going in every direction.  When researching Seawall, we had read that the sites there had more room and were more private than those of Blackwoods, so we were excited to have more peace and quiet.  And we felt it fit with the relaxed atmosphere of MDI’s western side.

After turning around a few times, we found our site.  We were again disappointed because our campsite didn’t have the privacy we were searching for.  Compared to Blackwoods, we were even closer to our neighbors.  We had made a mistake, one that clouded our view of Seawall a bit.

What had happened?  There are four loops in Seawall: A, B, C, and D.  Later on in our journey, we drove through the other loops to compare, and realized that if you want that private campsite, you want loops A or B.  Avoid C and D, unless you’re okay not having much privacy.

During our research of Seawall, we had seen something about the A and B loops being the best.  We had tried to reserve one there, but they booked up fast, so make sure you get your reservations early for those loops.  We thought C and D wouldn’t be too bad, and they’re not, but at that point in our trip we almost wished we had just booked a hotel.  At least it was relatively quiet, despite being crowded.

After setting up our tent, we went to take showers (we were overdue after spending 3 nights at Duck Harbor).  Thankfully, we knew just where to go, since we had passed the Seawall Camp Store on the drive in.  We were happy to arrive before closing…and to see the sign out front that read “Hot Showers.”

There are two shower rooms, separated by gender.  While there’s no toilet in the shower room, there is a port-o-potty out front.  Additionally there was a sink and a bench/sill area where you can put your things while getting ready.  Each room had 3 shower stalls, with a “dry” area that you go into first and lock, so you can keep your things dry and secure.  Be careful, it could be slippery since there was some water in that area.  Also, we had brought flip flops and towels, which we would recommend.  We’re not sure whether they had towels available at the camp store, but we figured we’d prefer to use our own regardless.

And I did have a gloriously hot shower… except that I had to stick three quarters in a machine every two minutes to extend my shower time.  And no, you can’t insert more money ahead of time.  Finally clean, we browsed the camp store, and bought oatmeal packets for breakfast the next day.  It was late, so we grabbed some dinner in Southwest Harbor before heading back to our campsite for the night.

Overall, we liked Seawall Campground, and would come back – if we got loop A or B.  Like Blackwoods, it’s a good home base to explore the surrounding area.

Seawall Campground | 212 Campsites | 5 Group Sites
Location: Mt. Desert Island, 4 miles south of Southwest Harbor (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire ring | Picnic Table | Flushable Toilet
Dates Open: Late May to the end of September
Prices: $22/night walk-in tent sites | $30/night drive-up tent, camper, and motor home sites | $60 group tent sites
Highlights: Close to attractions on MDI’s west side, clean and quiet
Notes:  Check-out: 10am | Advance reservations recommended | Get loop A or B, avoid C and D

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Seawall Camping Supplies | 536 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679

Maps:
Seawall Campground Map

Links:
NPS Website – Acadia Camping
Recreation.gov – Seawall Reservations

The post Seawall Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

One of the park rangers suggested this hike since we’d be staying on the island for 3 nights, and might have time to hike it. We handed her our printed Isle au Haut map, and she drew it in for us. The end point of the trail was the titular Thunder Gulch, a narrow ravine on the south coast of the peninsula. It’s so named because of the sound of the waves crashing into the gulch at high tides sounds like Thunder. It’s similar to Thunder Hole on Mount Desert Island, which we visited while walking along Ocean Path trail.

To the Trailhead

The trailhead is located on the Eastern Head peninsula, on the southeast coast of Isle au Haut. We knew we wanted to hike it, but also knew that it’s a long way from the campground to the trailhead, mainly along the unpaved Main Road. The road leads out of the park through a rural residential area, and eventually you’ll turn right down another road onto Eastern Head Peninsula where the trailhead is located. You’ll get back onto National Park land shortly after passing through some privately-owned land.

Knowing we had a long hike ahead of us, we left as early as we could and started hiking the road to the trailhead. Not surprisingly, the road is not an interesting hike. Fortunately for us, when we were approaching the main road, a pick-up truck pulled up beside us. It was two of our park ranger buddies, who asked if we wanted a ride to the trailhead! K and I looked at each other, unsure if we should skip the experience of hiking the road. Thankfully, we said yes, and piled into the back of the pick-up. It was great luck, and we saved a lot of time.

We knew we were getting close when we passed a very homemade-looking parking sign for Thunder Gulch. We drove past a few quaint private residences, and soon we were delivered right to the trailhead – which had another unique sign directing us to the trail (see featured photo). We waved our goodbyes, thanked the rangers, and headed to the trail.

Thunder Gulch Trail

The opening view from the trailhead is pretty spectacular, with a great cove next to it. As we started hiking, we left the ocean behind and starting hiking inland, through the middle of the peninsula. There were downed trees everywhere, and the existing trees struggle to get very tall due to the wind. Compared to other places we went on the island, Eastern Head is more exposed with some wide open spaces. It made for a nice change of pace.

The trail is fairly well marked, and there are some blazes, but it’s not as easy to follow as other trails on the island. There are also a couple side paths which we explored – we didn’t find anything amazing though, typically just a path to the coast. We expected to not run into anyone else on this hike, but we ran into two other groups. They weren’t staying at the campground, so they must have been locals or staying somewhere else on the island.

It wasn’t long before we reached the coast, and Thunder Gulch. It wasn’t high tide, it was somewhere between low and high, but we hadn’t really thought about timing the tides. As a result, while there was a definite “thunder” to the waves, the sound wasn’t amazing. But altogether, the sound, ravine, coast, and hike were a great experience. We got as close to the ravine as we could, and scrambled around on nearby rocks, making sure to watch our footing.

After exploring the gulch, we went along the coast for a short walk. We climbed a huge boulder, and took a quick power nap on top of it. When we opened our eyes, a thick fog had rolled in. And – we think – it had only been 5 minutes! That was our cue to head back the way we came. It’s a quick hike, but once we got back to the Thunder Gulch trailhead, we had a long walk on Main Road back to the campground.

On the hike back, we also did a quick 1.1 mile loop of the Goat Trail, since I had heard there were some carnivorous plants and orchids there. We had seen some on the way to Isle au Haut Town, but what we found on the Goat Trail was better: there is a boardwalk to get you closer to the plants, which made for good photo ops. Closer to the campground, we also took a quick 0.7 mile hike on Eben’s Head Trail, the big rock outcropping in Duck Harbor. We were exhausted at this point, but this was our last day, so we wanted to see it. It was nice, but very windy on top of Eben’s Head.

Thunder Gulch is a very nice trail, and if you have the time, I would recommend it. There are better trails on the island, but it’s still very rewarding. Why is it not on any maps? We asked the park ranger when we boarded the mail boat to leave Isle au Haut. And the answer is simply because the trail is surrounded by a residential area. Keep that in mind if you decide to hike the trail. Be respectful of private property and leave no trace!

Thunder Gulch Trail
Distance: 1.8 miles / 2.9 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Out and back
Elevation Gain: 292 feet / 89 meters
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: None.  We saw a few groups of people (surprisingly!), but it wasn’t crowded.
Water: Oceans, but we didn’t see any type of fresh water.
Parking: In Stonington, most likely
Directions to Trailhead From Duck Harbor Campground (Google Maps Directions):

• Mile 0.0 – First head east on the gravel service road that heads inland. You’ll pass the intersection with Western Head Road in 0.1 miles, then you’ll pass the water pump.
• Mile 0.4 – Turn right onto Main Road, and head southeast for 1.8 miles.
• Mile 2.2 – At this point, there is a small parking sign for Thunder Gulch. Turn right onto Head Harbor Road.
• Mile 2.4 – You’ve arrived! The trailhead will be on your right.

Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – Head south on the Thunder Gulch Trail. You’ll have the coast and a nice cove on your right. The first part of the hike goes through private property, so be respectful.
• Mile 0.4 – An optional side trail to the right goes to a rocky beach. Otherwise, continue on the main trail.
• Mile 0.9 – Arrive at Thunder Gulch! Enjoy, relax, and hear the waves crashing on the rocks, and then head back the same way you came.
• Mile 1.8 – Back at the trailhead, and time for the hike back to camp. Why not explore Goat Trail or Eben’s Head too?

Highlights: Views, rocky shorelines, windswept area, off the beaten path trail, the “thunder” from the gulch, different from other hikes on the island
Notes: The total mileage round-trip, with the trail and hiking from Duck Harbor, is around 6.6 miles.

Places:
Duck Harbor Campground | 44.028130, -68.652953
Thunder Gulch Trailhead | 44.022208, -68.616721
Thunder Gulch | 44.011720, -68.14373
Goat Trailhead | 44.023059, -68.632114
Eben’s Head Trailhead | 44.030190, -68.651430

References:
Thunder Gulch Trail Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

The post Thunder Gulch Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

There are multiple ways to get to town (and by town, we mean to the Ranger Station there).  From the campground you can either follow the main road all the way to town (5.1 miles one way), or hike on the Duck Harbor Trail (4.2 miles one way).  Or, like we did, a combination of both!  The road is faster and easier, but the trail is more direct.  A park ranger had mentioned a bog area where we could see carnivorous plants along the Main Road, so we decided to see that, but otherwise stick to Duck Harbor Trail.  We saw a few cars, including the park rangers, drive through this section.  If you take Main Road, watch for cars – you might not expect them.

To return from Isle au Haut Town, you can hike the network of paths.  Or, as some other campers told us, you can also take the Isle au Haut Mailboat back to Duck Harbor for a discounted price (we don’t remember the exact price, but around $7/person).  Thinking this was a brilliant choice, this was what we had decided to do.  It’s the same boat that you take to get to Isle au Haut, but you’re only on it for the last leg from the town to Duck Harbor.  The only catch is that you have to get to the dock by a certain time to catch the boat, otherwise you’ll be hiking back.  The exact time depends on the day of the week, but for us it was 3:15 pm.  So that was our goal, to get there by then.  We started the hike around 12:30pm, so we’d have to hustle a bit.

We filled up our water supply at the ancient-looking pump (which we mentioned in our “Duck Harbor Campground” post). The water was very iron-rich, but improved a lot after we strained it through a bandanna. Once we filtered it, we continued on the fire road, then turned left onto Main Road.  This route took us around Duck Harbor for a nice view of Duck Harbor Landing, where we had arrived the day before.

After about 0.3 miles, we turned right onto Duck Harbor Trail.  This first part of the trail had a small bit of scrambling, and otherwise was a nice easy forested trail.  We reached an intersection with the Main Road again after 0.8 miles.  Duck Harbor Trail and Main Road intersect a few times as you go toward town.  Since I was interested in seeing the pitcher plants in the bog, we turned right at this point to continue again onto Main Road.  We hiked in a pleasant wooded area with some clearings, which was nice even though it was a fire road.

When we got to the junction with Nat Merchant Trail after 1 mile, we started looking for pitcher plants. Before this trip, K had never seen a pitcher plant, but we got to see a lot of them here!  It’s basically a bulbous cone-shaped plant that tricks and eats insects.  The ones we saw came in neon green, deep red, or a mix of the two.  We saw glimpses of boggy areas that might have had some pitcher plants as we hiked, but we didn’t truly see them until we came to a wide open area.  It was a beautiful view of the bog, with dying trees surrounded by dark water and clusters of crimson red sundews (another carnivorous plant with sticky ‘leaves’).  And there, scattered around, were numerous flowering pitcher plants.

Be very careful if you try to look at the pitcher plants up close, as their environment is marshy and fragile.  I tried to examine these up close, but the surrounding footing wasn’t steady enough, and we are firm believers in “leave no trace.”  Additionally, there were small pink orchids growing in and near the bog.  The eastern half of the Goat Trail (also on Isle au Haut), has the best carnivorous plants that we saw on our trip.  The boardwalk made for easier (and safer!) photography.

After exploring the bog, we continued north on Main Road. After 1.3 miles, we turned back onto Duck Harbor Trail for more peaceful woods, and a few boardwalks.  We also saw some beautiful irises and other wildflowers.  There were several signs along the trail that marked the boundary of Acadia.  After 1.4 miles, we reached signs of civilization, and walked right into what looked like someone’s back yard; there was even a cozy-looking hammock set up.  As we walked closer, we realized it was the Isle au Haut Ranger Station.  Sadly, we reached the station at about 3:30 pm, so we had already missed the last mail boat back to Duck Harbor.  We’re always running late it seems!

The Ranger Station is a quaint building, and has information inside about the park.  Since we had befriended some of the rangers, we wanted to sop in and say hi.  Also, we were hoping they would offer us a lift back since we had missed the last mail boat…but no one was there.  So we grabbed an Isle au Haut passport stamp, then continued to Isle au Haut Town.  Beside the Ranger Station, there is also a pit toilet, which is a luxury when you’re hiking.

Our next stop was the Island Store, the island’s only general store.  As we walked the 0.4 miles from the Ranger Station, we passed by the town landing dock, and a small souvenir store, though we didn’t stop at either.  The Island Store sells basic groceries, hardware, and various other goods that residents on the island need or requested.  And of course, it was more expensive than on the mainland.  The best thing we found was called a Harbor Bar.  It appeared to be an ice cream-cookie sandwich covered in chocolate.  K coerced me into getting it, since she is allergic to dairy…

We sat out back on one of 2 picnic benches.  K ate her sandwich, and I ate my Harbor Bar (a healthy lunch).  The weather was gorgeous, and we had a view of the Isle au Haut Thorofare (the body of water between Isle au Haut and Kimball Island).  There is even a small pier out back at the Island Store.  It was all very picturesque, and a great spot to take a break and eat lunch…or ice cream.

We hiked back to the Ranger station to use the bathroom before heading back to Duck Harbor.  But when we arrived, all 3 Isle au Haut park rangers were there.  So we chatted with them for a bit, they were all friendly and offered information, stories, and even Oreos… mmmm.  And there’s no dairy in those!  Sadly, we didn’t get any offer for a ride back to camp, so it was another hike for us.

We started to head back to the campground, but took the route opposite the way we came, again using a mix of Duck Harbor Trail and Main Road.  This kept things interesting, and limited the amount of revisited trail.  The rangers had mentioned to look out for the local “food truck,” which we were told is referred to as the Lobster Lady.  Sadly, she wouldn’t arrive until the following week.  We did snap a photo of the Lobster shack, though.  Someday we’d love to try this iconic Maine – remote island – “food truck” destination.

Initially we started on the Main Road, before switching to the Duck Harbor Trail at the first intersection.  Here, the trail went along the coast and some rocky beaches, which was a nice change from the trail or road we’d been on.  A side trail also leads down to Deep Cove, but we skipped it since it was getting late.  The trail started to feel a bit long at the end (we were getting tired); the road was monotonous, and the terrain along the trail became fairly similar as we neared the end.

Before long, we arrived back at our campsite, exhausted.  The hike was a lot of fun, and it was great to see a variety of plant life and Isle au Haut Town. But we really wished we had been able to take the mail boat back, and we recommend that for others doing this hike.

Isle au Haut Town via Duck Harbor Trail
Distance: 7.0 miles / 11.3 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Out and Back
Total Elevation Gain: 1155 feet / 352 meters
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate.  The only difficulty is the length.
Crowds: We encountered a couple cars on the Main Road, but saw no people on the trail.
Water: There’s some marshy areas and the ocean, and a couple small streams.
Parking: In Stonington, most likely
Directions to Trailhead (Google Maps Directions):

• Mile 0.0 – First head east on the gravel service road that heads inland. You’ll pass the intersection with the Western Head road in 0.1 miles, and the water pump a bit further.
• Mile 0.4 – Once you reach the intersection with the gravel Main Road, turn left, and go for 0.3 miles northwest.
• Mile 0.7 – The trailhead for Duck Harbor is on the right side of the Main Road.

Trail Directions (via Duck Harbor Trail): 

• Mile 0.0 – The actual “trail head” is here on the right side of the road.  The first part of the trail goes up and down and features a small bit of scrambling.
• Mile 0.8 – You’ll arrive at the intersection with the Main Road again.  Continue straight across (or go on the road, if you’re feeling like it).  This part of the trail goes near the coast, so you’ll be hiking through woods and also rocky beaches.
• Mile 1.0 – To the left, is an optional side trail to Deep Cove, if you have time.
• Mile 2.1 – Once again, an intersection with the Main Road.  Continue straight across, for the last leg of the hike.  This one goes through a few marshy areas so there’s some board walks, but is otherwise fairly straightforward (and a bit monotonous at this point).
• Mile 3.5 – You’ve arrived at the Isle au Haut Ranger Station!  Stop in and say hi, and then check out the town.  Then go back the way you came (or take the mail boat back.  Or hike on the Main Road back.)

Highlights:  Seeing the town and ranger station.  Carnivorous plants, if you’re a nerd like I am.
Notes: The directions are for using Duck Harbor Trail only, but as our post detailed feel free to make detours on the Main Road.

Places:
Duck Harbor Trailhead | 44.030184, -68.651364
Duck Harbor Campground | 44.028130, -68.652953
Isle au Haut Ranger Station | Acadia National Park, Isle Au Haut, ME 04645
The Island Store | 3 Main St, Isle Au Haut, ME 04645 | Hours vary depending on season | (207) 335-5211
Lobster Lady (Facebook) | Location varies on the island | She’s only there during the summer
Bog on Main Road | 44.042623, -68.634540

Maps:
Duck Harbor Trail Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

The post Isle au Haut Town via Duck Harbor Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Duck Harbor Mountain Trail

We had just arrived at the campground, and had only gotten settled in for an hour or so before we ventured out, but it was already early afternoon.  We wanted to experience as much as possible during our 4 days and 3 nights on Isle au Haut.  Heading east from the campground, we walked along a small trail that goes along the shore of Duck Harbor.  We ventured off-trail for a view of the harbor and rocky shoreline.  There we found lots of mussel shells, as well as a few crab shells.  The crab shells intrigued us, we wondered why there were so many.  Later, a park ranger told us that seagulls routinely drop live crabs on the rocks, feast on the crab, and leave the shell behind.  So you’ll find them scattered along the coastline.

Soon, we reached the Duck Harbor Mountain trailhead sign. The trail begins on a service road, and a pit toilet is conveniently located at the trailhead.  We turned right to continue on the service road, and immediately stumbled upon the log cutter for the campground.  We had been wondering where the machine was!  After 0.1 miles on the service road, we turned left into a wooded area to continue onto Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.

We started going uphill, over roots and rocks.  As we continued, the trail led out of the forest and onto huge exposed rocks.  Here, we relied on cairns to point the way up to the summit, which reminded us of our hike at Pemetic Mountain.  Hiking on the exposed rock soon gave us amazing views of Duck Harbor, and the surrounding area.  There are also some blue blazes that pointed us in the right direction.

Before long we reached a false summit, which provided great views of the harbor.  We actually thought we were at the top at this point, before noticing we could continue uphill.  We took a break anyway, enjoying the breeze and vistas.  The hike continued, going downhill briefly before ascending the mountain again with some cool rock scrambles.  Some of the rock features were a lot of fun to climb – this was a definite highlight of this hike.  When we saw a US geological survey marker, we knew we had reached the summit of Duck Harbor Mountain.  Interestingly, we preferred the views from the false summit.

The descent sent us scampering over rocks, passing through a narrow path between boulders, and into a pine forest, as we slowly hiked to the coast.  It wasn’t long until the Duck Harbor Mountain trail ended, and we reached Squeaker Cove, a beautiful rocky beach where we took a break and relaxed.  We felt the refreshing sea breeze, and enjoyed the sound of small rocks rolling around as the waves came in.  We think the cove was named for the “squeaky” sound the rocks made as they tumbled.  This was one of our favorite places on Isle au Haut; it felt very secluded and peaceful.  It was also fun to walk around the cove, and peek in some of the tide pools.

Eventually, we had to leave Squeaker Cove behind.  We turned right onto Goat Trail, which continues along the coast and eventually hits the access road we had started on.  If you’re looking for an easier hike back to the campground, you can take the access road.  As we came to the road, we met Alison, the park ranger who had met us at the dock, with one of the other rangers.  “I thought you were going to take it easy and relax today?” she said.  We laughed, since we had told the rangers that our plan for day 1 included lots of relaxing.  But we quickly realized how tough that is when you’re in such a beautiful place with so much to explore!  We waved goodbye as they drove on, and we continued onto the Cliff Trail.

The Cliff Trail ends at the southern end of the Western Head Peninsula.  Here, Western Head trail begins, heading north.  Western Ear Island is also at the southern end, separated from the peninsula only by a narrow sand bar.  At low tide, you can cross onto the island.  We were hoping to do just that, so we could explore the tiny island (there aren’t any trails there), but sadly we had arrived solidly at high tide.  So we just sat there, enjoyed the view and perfect sunny-but-breezy weather before continuing on.  If you happen to get to Western Ear Island, let us know how it is!

Soon we were on a boardwalk crossing a marshy area.  I was immediately on the lookout for some carnivorous plants; we didn’t see any, but we did see a small wood frog.  We also came upon various coves and beaches as we hiked.  Sadly, some were strewn with trash and buoys.  If you collect a certain number of buoys, you can earn a junior ranger badge.  It’s for kids (mostly), but the rangers offered it to us to if we collected bouys.  We found out too late, otherwise I would have!  The buoys are heavier than they look, so you might want to spread it out if you do choose to collect them (and help keep the beaches clean).  Every year a group travels to Isle au Haut to clean up the beaches and coves, but a lot of trash washes in the rest of the year.  It’s a bit disheartening, as some places have a lot of it.

As you cross the rocky beaches, there are cairns to guide the way.  It’s a bit of a hunt sometimes to determine which way to go.  After 1.5 miles on Western Head Trail, we joined back up with the access road, and continued 0.4 miles back to the trailhead.  We made it back to our campsite while it was still light out, which allowed us to see a gorgeous sunset as we ate dinner and relaxed in our hammock.  A great first hike on Isle au Haut!  And spoiler:  It was our favorite hike on Isle au Haut.

Duck Harbor Mountain Trail
Distance: 4.2 miles / 7.8 kilometers
Total Elevation Gain: 1102 feet / 335 meters
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: We saw only about 3 people on the whole trail.  5 counting park rangers.
Water: There’s the ocean… a few small streams you’ll step over, and some boggy areas.
Parking: In Stonington, most likely
Directions to Trailhead:  From Duck Harbor Campground, take the service road east for 0.1 miles until you reach an intersection
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – At the intersection with the service road that cuts through Western Head, head south.  You’ll pass a wood cutter in a few hundred feet on your right.  If you look closely, you may see some sundews along the road.
• Mile 0.1 – Turn left onto Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.  You’ll go through a forest with rock scrambling and incline to reach the top of the mountain.  Along the way you’ll also get to a false summit, with great views.  Blue blazes and cairns will help you on your way.
• Mile 0.2 – Arrive at the “false summit” of the mountain.  See the views, then descend a bit before ascending toward the actual summit.
• Mile 0.4 – Arrive at the summit of Duck Harbor Mountain.  Views weren’t as great as those at the false summit, though.  Continue your descent, scrambling along the way as you go through mossy forests.
• Mile 1.2 – Arrive at Squeaker Cove, and enjoy the sights and sounds.  Then turn right onto the Goat Trail, which is relatively flat.
• Mile 1.5 – Continue straight onto the Cliff Trail.  You’ll see Western Head Road (the service road) on your right.
• Mile 2.3 – Reach the southernmost tip of Western Head Peninsula.  If it’s low tide, you can cross over to Western Ear Island and explore!  Head north on Western Head Trail to go across boardwalks and through a somewhat swampy area.  There are a lot of rocky beaches along this trail too.
• Mile 3.8 – Turn left onto the service road (Western Head Road), and continue north, eventually passing the trailhead for the Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.
• Mile 4.2 – Arrive back at the trailhead!

Highlights:  Amazing views of Duck Harbor, fun rock scrambling, and a diverse range of ecosystems
Notes: Our favorite hike on Isle au Haut!

Places:
Duck Harbor Campground | 44.028130, -68.652953
Duck Harbor Mountain Hike Trailhead | 44.028038, -68.651038
Squeaker Cove | 44.016180, -68.644663

Maps:
Duck Harbor Mountain Trail Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

The post Duck Harbor Mountain Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

“Kill Nothing but Time…
Take Nothing but Pictures…
Leave Nothing but Tracks…”

– Anonymous (Posted on Duck Harbor Campground Shelters)

Exploring Duck Harbor Campground

Duck Harbor Campground sits within Acadia National Park, on an island called Isle au Haut.  To get there, you must take a small mail boat from the mainland.  In return, you get a secluded campground, great hiking, and an amazing experience.  Isle au Haut is not a place most visitors to Acadia go to.  Our boat trip to the island was uneventful, but exhilarating at the same time.  We disembarked from the boat with all our gear in tow.  We had thought about using our backpacking gear, but decided against it to give ourselves more flexibility.  Most of the departing campers we saw had backpacking backpacks, but our daypacks, duffels, and small cooler met our needs.

Our small, hard-sided cooler (which we purchased at Walmart) held some ice and fresh foods like veggies, hotdogs, and hummus.  Just in case, we brought a dehydrated meal too, but didn’t end up using it.  There’s no camp store here, so you have to pack everything in that you’d need (unless you want to hike 4 miles to the nearest general store).  Lastly, we brought minimal water, relying on the water pump near camp.

One of the park rangers, Allison, greeted us on the dock.  She explained the rules and proceeded to show us the campground.  There is always a ranger to greet visitors at the campground, rain or shine, at both the morning and afternoon boat drop-offs.  Allison and the other rangers were friendly and helpful, which was great since we ran into them often during our stay!

Duck Harbor Campground has 5 shelter sites, and two shared compostable pit toilets.  There was even hand sanitizer inside the bathrooms.  For day-visitors to Duck Harbor, there’s a third compostable bathroom near the trailhead to Duck Harbor Mountain.  Each campsite is equipped with a shelter, fire ring, and picnic table.  Each site also has a food storage box, since rodents have been known to get into food that’s not properly secured.  In addition, there is firewood available for campers, though you can also collect downed branches for tinder or get some pre-chopped wood at the wood chopping machine.  When we arrived, there was already firewood under our shelter for us.

There’s also an old hand water pump for getting potable water. It’s about a ⅓ mile hike from the campground. It looks ancient, like it won’t work or that the water would be nasty, but it’s fine.  The rangers told us that the water quality is checked every year to make sure it’s potable, though it does have a distinct taste of iron.  Iron Water would make a great new name for a brand of bottled water.  Or maybe not.

To improve your experience at the water pump, we recommend straining water through a bandanna and into your water bottle / jug / hand / mouth.  We found that worked to reduce sediment in the water, though it’ll still taste like iron and have a cloudy yellowish haze.  There are also many places the water can come out of – it’s kind of intriguingly confusing.  In the end, we pulled up on a knob, which filled a tank that released water out the bottom – your mileage may vary as to the best method to use the pump.  But that’s part of the fun

When it comes to the shelters, each one has a variety of shelving and hooks for storage, and a broom to sweep off the wooden floor.  Every shelter is different: some have better views, some have more privacy, some have more seating, etc.  On another blog, we had read that sites 4 or 5 had the best views, which we agree with, but each site has its charms.

Luckily, only one site was taken when arrived and we were the only ones on the mail boat… so we got our pick of sites 2 through 5!  The rest of the campers came on a later boat, which we attribute to a mail boat schedule change.  Allison, the park ranger, said we were also lucky to have gotten 3 nights since the campground was completely booked for the season.  By the way, reserving a campsite is a bit of a process.

How to Reserve a Camp Site

[04/05/18 Update: The National Park Service has changed how you reserve a campsite.  Out with mailing a letter, and in with online reservations through recreation.gov.  I actually got an email from the park about the reservation change since I had previously made reservations.  So this section is out-of-date, but I’m leaving it here for reference.  Online reservations begin every year on April 1 @ 10am EST.  This is a good change – mailing the reservation was a pain.  Also, you can now choose your campsite before you even get there!  Good luck!]

First, you must send a letter to the park service – no email, fax, or calling.  Old fashioned snail mail.  When you send in the reservation form, you’ll specify three possible date ranges and the number of nights.  You can stay a maximum of three nights, which is what we recommend and did.  On the form, we did add a note that we were okay with fewer nights if we couldn’t get three.  The letter must be postmarked April 1 or later, otherwise the NPS will ignore your letter.  We sent in our letter on April 1 with a $25 check, which is the amount no matter how long you stay.

The days ticked by, and we were nervously awaiting the return letter.  Would we get our requested dates?  Did the park service even receive our letter?  Maybe the USPS lost it?  Thankfully, we got a letter from the park service on April 14 – two weeks after we had sent ours.  Excitedly, we opened the letter to find out that we had gotten our first choice of dates, with three nights.  Unless you’re very flexible with the dates, I HIGHLY recommend sending in your request on April 1.  Most campers we talked to were not able to get their exact choice of dates or even three nights.

Now, that’s how to reserve a campsite.  But you also have to get to the campground, and unless you have your own boat, you’ll be taking a ferry.  Specifically, the Isle Au Haut mailboat that travels from Stonington, ME to Duck Harbor.  Check out our Stonington post for more info on the mail boat.

Comparing Campsites

So, which campsite did we choose?  Well, which site looks best to you?

Site 1

Site 2

Site 3

Site 4

Site 5

We chose site 4 – great location, great views.  Site 5 was also excellent, but a bit further from the bathroom.  Site 1 was taken.  Sites 2 and 3 were nice, but proximity to the ocean won out.  The only negative was that previous campers had carved out a path to our site in the grass, and a few visitors mistakenly ended up in our site.  We warmly welcomed them… then mentioned it to the rangers, who were already fixing some signage to mediate the problem.

Site 1 – Most inland, less breeze, close to bathroom, fairly private
Site 2 – More inland, less breeze, close to bathroom
Site 3 – Close to bathroom, close to other campsites
Site 4 – Great views, good location, close to bathroom, close to other campsites, access to coastline
Site 5 – Most remote and private, bit farther from bathroom, great views, access to coastline

So, we settled in and made our shelter a home.  We thought we would just relax – we even told the Park Rangers that was our plan for the day.  And we did, for an hour or so.  But we only had a few days here and wanted to make the most of it, so it was time for another adventure.  Duck Harbor Mountain loomed behind us…

We loved Duck Harbor Campground.  It was probably our favorite adventure in Acadia, and that’s saying a lot, with so many awesome attractions in the park.  The campground was very clean, mostly private, and had amazing views.  We enjoyed just resting in our hammock and watching the sun set, or reading a book with the sea breeze blowing gently around us.  Often, we’d go down to the coastline and eat our breakfast or dinner on a rock.  And there are a lot of great trails to explore just minutes away!  And if you were wondering, we did indeed see actual ducks at Duck Harbor!  So the harbor is aptly named.  Quack.  Quack.

Duck Harbor Campground | 5 Shelter Sites

Location: Isle au Haut (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable water available via an old hand pump located ⅓ mile from the campground| Fire ring | Picnic Table | Composting Toilet | Food Storage Box
Dates Open: May 15 to October 15
Prices: $25 / stay | Maximum stay: 3 nights
Highlights: Right next to the coast, solitude, hiking trails nearby
Notes:  Check-out: 11am | Advance Reservations Required – reservation requests must be mailed on or after April 1

Links

Duck Harbor Campground Reservations at Recreation.gov
Isle au Haut 2014 Visitor Use Management Plan
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

Interactive Map

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