We were excited for our first hike in Glacier National Park. Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Trail promised a forested boardwalk trail, a stunning gorge, and a glacial lake nestled at the foot of majestic mountains. We hoped it would give us a taste of what Glacier National Park is all about.

To get to Avalanche Lake Trail, you first have to hike Trail of the Cedars, a path through cedar, hemlock, and the cottonwood trees which is primarily on a boardwalk. Combining the two trails forms a 5.9 mile reverse lollipop loop. This sylvan path takes you to Avalanche Gorge, where Avalanche Creek flows through a twisted narrow canyon. Avalanche Lake, a picturesque body of water with towering mountains beyond, is located at the terminus (ish) of the trail. The lake was named in 1895 because a group exploring the area saw and heard many avalanches during their stay.

Hiking is a popular activity in Glacier National Park, so you have to get to the trailhead early to secure a parking spot. Trail of the Cedars is only about a 30 minute drive from Fish Creek Campground, where we were staying, so it seemed like a good bet. Thankfully, there were still spaces left when we arrived in the parking lot around 8:30 a.m. However, visitation has increased in recent years, so you have to arrive even earlier to ensure you get a spot (potentially as early as 6:30 a.m.). A timed-entry system has also been implemented, but the park remains crowded.

We took about 15 minutes to put on sunscreen and get our gear ready. By the time we got started, there were no visible parking spaces left. Coming from the west, there are three parking lots in order: Avalanche Lake Picnic Area (on left), Avalanche Campground (a small lot on the right), and Trail of the Cedars Parking (on the right after crossing Avalanche Creek). Some visitors only do Trail of the Cedars, which is rather short, so you can circle the lot until a space opens up. The park shuttle is another great option, and there is a transfer stop next to the trailhead.

Trail of the Cedars

We walked across Going to the Sun Road, then crossed Avalanche Creek. Trail of the Cedars is a loop – one side starts north of Avalanche Creek, the other to the south. We decided on a whim to start from the north and go clockwise, but either would work. Avalanche Lake Trail intersects Trail of the Cedars around the halfway point.

We started our hike on a boardwalk on Trail of the Cedars, and a good portion of the loop is a boardwalk. Travis loves boardwalks, so he was really in his element. It feels like you’re traveling through a swamp or bog, someplace you wouldn’t normally be able to walk without damaging the terrain or flora.

The trail is wheelchair accessible, easy terrain with a gentle slope up toward the intersection with Avalanche Lake Trail. Trail of the Cedars was one of the first accessible trails completed by the NPS. Originally, other parts of the trail were constructed using gravel and pavement, which deteriorated over time. In 2015, this portion of the trail was reconstructed using sustainable non-asphalt polymer surface.

As we made our way through the dense forest, there was a steady stream of people on the trail, but it still seemed quiet and peaceful. Some trees were marked with signs describing the species, which I always appreciate. Other signs sported an illustration and poem. It took us a few signs to realize that they were all haikus! Honestly, poetry and hiking trails go really well together.

In the quiet night
ambush on the forest floor
the predator dines

Haiku from a sign along Trail of the Cedars

After 0.4 miles, we reached the popular Avalanche Gorge, which Avalanche Creek traverses. The gorge is so beautiful it’s almost indescribable, and you can see why it’s so popular. The translucent bright blue water (which neither words nor photographs can accurately convey) cascades through a narrow canyon. When rocks grind together underneath a glacier, the resulting sediment powder gets suspended in the water. This sediment absorbs and scatters sunlight, creating the distinctive milky blue hue.

Avalanche Lake Trail

Almost immediately after crossing the gorge, we turned left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. The trail ascends slightly as it follows the gorge further upstream. The trail has a steady ascent of over 500 feet for 1.7 miles, and flattens out as you approach Avalanche Lake. More waterfalls appear as you ascend above the creek and past Avalanche Gorge. We took our time exploring and snapping photos before continuing past the gorge. Travis experimented with some long exposures, but he wasn’t happy with the results since he had forgotten his tripod.

The trail follows Avalanche Creek through the woods, then opens to views of the mountains. It’s our first glimpse that truly showcased the glacial valleys and peaks of Glacier National Park. The wooded trail is peaceful and beautiful, but we really felt like we were in Glacier when we saw the mountains.

Shortly before reaching the lake, we passed a short side trail on the right to two outhouses. Several of the longer trails in Glacier have outhouses along the way, which says a lot about the popularity of the park. In crowded parks like Glacier, they are essential for keeping the area clean.

Avalanche Lake

As we arrived at Avalanche Lake, we noticed lots of people milling around along the shoreline. There had been a guided hike earlier in the day, and a park ranger was there answering questions. Even with the crowd, everyone seemed to be respectful and took turns taking photos with the lake and mountain backdrop.

Nestled in a valley, Avalanche Lake has a beautiful light green hue. The logs scattered in the lake are a distinctive feature when compared to other lakes we visited. Unfortunately the sky was fairly hazy, and the lighting wasn’t the best, but we still enjoyed ourselves (how could we not?). Small rodents ran around (don’t feed them!), and we saw some interesting birds.

While most hikers stop once they reach Avalanche Lake, the trail continues to the far side of the lake. So of course, we had to explore a bit more. We were able to get relative solitude in the forested areas as we continued our hike around the lake. Occasional side trails provide beach access. The lake gets deeper toward the south side, and it takes on more of a turquoise color which I think is even more beautiful than the greenish hue in the shallow end.

As we continued on the trail, we heard something coming toward us. Another hiker? Bear? No! A deer was using the trail and coming right toward us. We stopped, and thought about backtracking to a side trail, but there wasn’t one nearby. As it approached us, the deer darted into the woods toward the lake, went around us, jumped back on the trail, and kept going. Problem solved.

At the end of the established trail is a sign, literally saying “End of Trail.” However there’s a clear social trail that continues beyond. We followed it to a beach on the south side of the lake. About a half dozen other people were also enjoying the less populated side of the lake. The view was just as impressive from this side, if not more so. Besides people, there were also a few deer poking around.

We sat down to a packed lunch at the sandy beach. Small streams flowed into the lake, and wildflowers dotted the landscape behind us. It was peaceful and quiet. Another visitor fished (Yellowstone cutthroat trout are native to the lake), and hikers passed by periodically. We spent a good while just relaxing and enjoying the scenery before retracing our steps along the shoreline and back down the trail.

Back to Trail of the Cedars

Above Avalanche Gorge, a sign warns visitors to stay on the trail, as drowning is the top cause of death in the park. We’ve heard of numerous drowning accidents over the years. Two deaths occurred during our trip – and drowning was the cause of one. The rivers and creeks are fast flowing, and can be very cold. So for your own safety, always stay on the trail, and avoid hiking solo if possible.

Travis’s leg was bothering him, so we stopped to rest for a bit, and then slowed down our pace. We made it back to the intersection with Trail of the Cedars. On the way, we took another look at Avalanche Gorge – and found that the harsh afternoon lighting made the area appear washed out. If you want to see Avalanche Gorge, I recommend visiting in the morning for more vibrant hues. However, the lake and mountains were more well-lit in the afternoon light, so hiking up in the morning and back in the afternoon is a good bet.

We then continued clockwise on Trail of the Cedars. Again it was a short and peaceful hike through the woods, but there are fewer boardwalks in this section. We passed a restroom and the Avalanche Campground Amphitheater before returning to our car.

Overall, we both really enjoyed this hike. Travis loved the boardwalk and Avalanche Gorge, and my favorite part was exploring (and just relaxing by) Avalanche Lake. It took us six and a half hours at a super leisurely pace. For a “normal” leisurely pace, we could probably hike it in four and half hours or so. It made for a great first hike in Glacier National Park!

Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop

Date: Sunday, July 21, 2019
Type: Dayhike Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 5.9 miles (9.5 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 735 feet (224 m)
Time: 6.5 hours
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: High
Water: Creeks and lakes
Highlights: Views, wildlife, gorge, water features, boardwalk
Directions to Trailhead: Trail of the Cedars Trailhead
Notes: You can go either way on the Trail of the Cedars Loop

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Trail of the Cedars Trailhead, on the northern side of Avalanche Creek, head clockwise on the trail. It will lead to a boardwalk through cedar, hemlock, and cottonwood forest.
• 0.4 mi – Cross Avalanche Creek. Avalanche Gorge is on your left. About 100 feet further down the trail, turn left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. After another 100 feet, turn left to stay on Avalanche Lake Trail at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail. This section will then ascend over 500 feet to the lake.
• 2.3 mi – You’ve arrived at the northern end (the foot) of Avalanche Lake, where water flows out. Stop to enjoy the beach as well as the lake and mountain views. Two outhouses are located nearby.
• 2.9 mi – The official trail ends, and a social trail continues. A few minutes’ walk takes you to the southern end of the lake (the head), where water flows into the lake. Another small beach is located here as well. Turn around when you want to head back.
• 5.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail to continue on Avalanche Lake Trail. Go 100 feet, then turn left onto Trail of the Cedars. This is the second half of the loop. You’ll pass a restroom and amphitheater along the way.
• 5.9 mi – Back at the trailhead

Maps

• Trail of Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Lake McDonald Valley Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Avalanche Lake Trail (NPS)
• Trail of the Cedars (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop appeared first on KTNPBlog.

When we decided to visit Japan, I knew we had to go to Miyajima (宮島). Officially known as Itsukushima (厳島), Miyajima is a small island off the coast of Hiroshima. The island, along with thousands of other islands in the Seto Inland Sea, is part of Setonaikai National Park (瀬戸内海国立公園, Setonaikai Kokuritsu Kōen).

Miyajima, which means “shrine island,” boasts a unique feature: a fifty-foot tall torii gate that appears to float on the water at high tide. At low tide, visitors can walk out to the gate. There’s lots more to see and do, including visiting the highest point on the island – Mount Misen (弥山, Misen).

Mt. Misen stands at 535 meters tall. Three main hiking trails, as well as a ropeway, lead visitors to its peak. We intended to hike up the mountain, but the heat got the better of us and we decided to take the ropeway up. On the way down we would hike through Mount Misen Primeval Forest, a protected area located on the northern side of the mountain.

My parents are big fans of Japanese woodblock art (ukiyo-e), and they took me to museums to see them as a kid. They instilled a love of art in me, and I bought a few prints as an adult. The first one I bought was called “Moonlit Night at Miyajima” by Kawase Hasui, which depicts a nighttime view of the beautiful Itsukushima Shrine, surrounded by water. So we were beyond excited to experience the shrine in person.

To Miyajima

We spent two nights on Miyajima, but only one full day. We really enjoyed the island and wished we had more time there. The previous day, we had completed the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route and spent the night in Matsumoto. We then took the shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima, where we explored for an afternoon.

That evening, we had dinner with a family friend who lives in Hiroshima. Around 9:00 pm, we finally made our way to Miyajima via a ferry. It only took ten minutes, and we were the only passengers on board (aside from our family friend who insisted on accompanying us). Once we docked at the island, we walked about three minutes to Sakuraya, our hotel. It’s an affordable cozy spot with Japanese style rooms in a great location.

Itsukushima Shrine

The following morning, we headed out around 9:00 a.m. Immediately, we spotted some of Miyajima’s most popular residents: wild Sitka deer. They’re cute, relatively tame, and can be found all over the island. Watch out for them, as they will try to grab food or other items, we’re told. It’s illegal to feed the deer…so don’t do that. In the Shinto religion, Sitka deer are considered to be messengers of gods and are protected by law.

We headed straight toward Itsukushima Shrine. Along the way, we walked down Omotesando Street, where vendors sell food and souvenirs. Most vendors weren’t open yet, but we managed to find a few that were, and grabbed some snacks for breakfast. We made sure to buy some delicious Momiji manjū, a cake with various fillings that is considered a specialty on the island. Kristin was even able to find some that were dairy-free.

Omotesando Street curved to reveal our first glimpse of the Itsukushima torii gate as we walked. At high tide, the torii gate appeared to float, and its rusty orange color was striking in contrast with the blue water. The gate truly is a stunning and unique landmark.

Along the way, we stopped to take photos of the torii gate from various angles. I was glad to finally visit in person after seeing it represented in artwork throughout the years. We planned to return later in the day, during low tide, to get closer to the torii gate. Before our trip, we downloaded a tide timing app so we wouldn’t miss anything.

Next, we went to check out another popular tourist attraction on the island. After waiting in a long line and paying 300 yen apiece, we entered the Itsukushima Shrine complex. It has the same striking vermillion color as the torii gate, and is built over the water. It was crowded with tourists as we walked through.

Near the center of the shrine, we got our goshuin stamped, then walked out onto a platform with a view of the torii gate. Tons of people were waiting to get their photo with the torii gate beyond. So, we jumped on the bandwagon and got our picture too, before exiting the shrine to the east. We planned to stop by in the evening to get yet another view of the torii gate. Thinking about all the shrines we visited in Japan, this is one of the most impressive.

Ascending Mount Misen

At this point in the day, the temperature was quickly approaching scorching hot. It was around 90 °F, and with the humidity between 60% and 80%…it felt like more than 100 °F. Thankfully, the area was designed with streams that flow through constructed channels, so we dipped our feet in to cool off. We also got gelato at Baccano, which helped. Despite the heat, we were ready to ascend Mount Misen.

The history of Mt. Misen is connected with Kobo Daishi (774 – 835), a famous Buddhist monk who created the Shingon sect. In 806, he founded a temple called Daisho-in at the base of Mt. Misen. There are Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen, all legendary events said to have happened to Kobo Daishi. We saw two of the wonders while on Mt. Misen; many of the others are inaccessible or no longer exist.

There are three hiking routes to climb Mt. Misen: the Momijidani, Daisho-in, and the Omoto Course. Each course is a bit different. We originally thought we’d take the Momijidani Course up and the Daisho-in Course down. But we started to rethink our options due to the heat.

There is a fourth option to get to the top: The Miyajima Ropeway. We decided to ascend Mount Misen using this option and descend via the Daisho-in course. Daisho-in Temple is located near the exit of the Daisho-in course, and we wanted to visit that as well. After exiting the ropeway, the route to the summit and then down to Daisho-in is roughly 3.5 km (2.2 mi).

It was about a 20 minute walk from our hotel to Miyajima Ropeway. This route would take us through Momijidani Park, which is famous for its maple trees. We planned to walk, but when the free shuttle came by, we decided to take it. It was hot, enough said.

We arrived at the ropeway, bought our tickets, and got into a car with a friendly Japanese couple who spoke a bit of English. The views were decent as we went up the first section of ropeway, and before we knew it, we arrived at Kayadani Station. The second ropeway section had even better views, with a gorgeous look southeast of the Seto Sea.

Mount Misen Summit

Eventually, we arrived at Shishiiwa Station, the final stop on the ropeway. But we weren’t at the summit yet. From the ropeway it’s a 1.0 km (0.6 mi) hike to the top, which takes about 30 minutes via the Momijidani Route.

The trail wasn’t too hard, and we had nice views of the Seto Sea. In about 15 minutes, we came to a flat area with a couple of buildings: Misen Hondo (Misen Main Hall) and Reikado (Hall of the Spiritual Flame). We started in Reikado, where a fire lit in 806 by Kobo Daishi has been burning for over 1,200 years. The fire from this temple was used to light the fire at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. It’s considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen.

Next we did a quick look into the nearby temple, Misen Hondo, then continued to ascend up to the summit. We passed by additional buildings: Sankido, Monjudo, and Kannondo Halls. All are places of worship, dedicated to a variety of deities.

It was a short walk to the top, and we weaved around and below some boulders before arriving. We had to duck to pass under Kuguriiwa, or Passage Rock. Finally, we arrived at the summit. Inside the observatory, we enjoyed the shade and a 360 degree view of the Seto Inland Sea and Hiroshima Bay. There’s also a small gift shop at the bottom of the building.

Descending Mount Misen and Daishoin Temple

Around 3:30 pm, we decided to head down. We wanted to check out Daisho-in Temple, but it closes at 5:00 pm, so we were going to be tight on time. The trail continues down the other side of the mountain and leads to the other two routes, Daisho-in and the Omoto Course. Near the top, we passed another of the Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen – Kanmaniwa known as the “ebb-and-flow rock.” The rock has a hole with saltwater that rises and lowers with the tide. We didn’t stick around long enough to see the phenomenon though.

After the Kanmaniwa rock we passed Dainichido Hall, but we didn’t have time to explore further. We descended multiple flights of stairs, and turned right to continue down the mountain. I was glad we had decided to hike down rather than up, because I was sweating buckets and it was nearly a hundred degrees.

As we passed a small shrine along the trail, we heard buzzing. Looking around, we saw a swarm of hundreds of bees above the small shrine. Thankfully, they seemed preoccupied, so we slid quickly by, past a turnoff to Miyama Shrine.

We passed between two large rocks on each side of the trail known as Kujiraiwa, which means Whale Rock. The rock on the left looks like a whale, and has a hole on the top which resembles a blowhole. And the round rock on the left…is the whale’s poop. It sounds like I made that up, but I promise I didn’t. Soon after, we passed through Niōmon (仁王門, Niou gate), which has two guardian statues. After the gate, the trail forks onto the Daisho-in and Omoto Courses. We headed left for the Daisho-in Course.

The trail parallels, and occasionally crosses, the Shiraito River down a seemingly endless staircase. In 2005, a mudslide damaged Daisho-in temple and other areas. On the way down, we spotted some large dam-like structures that help prevent mudslides, which had been constructed a few years later in 2008.

At 4:30 pm we arrived at a small shelter called the Azumaya Observation Deck. There’s a decent view looking north (though not as broad a view as when we were higher up). At this point, it’s about 0.4 miles (0.7 km) to Daisho-in. Quickly, we passed some small shrines on the side of the trail as we descended. We had to hurry, and didn’t spend as much time as we’d like looking at everything. We passed Shiraito Falls, which supposedly resembles threads of silk. But not much water was flowing, so we didn’t really get that impression. We also heard that the mudslides in 2005 altered the way the falls look.

Somehow, we made it to Daisho-in just ten minutes before it closed. That’s nowhere near enough time to do it justice. But, we did our best and even got our goshuin stamped. Daisho-in has hundreds of small rakan statues, which represent the disciples of Buddha. There are also buildings and caves you can explore. When we revisit Miyajima someday, Daisho-in is one place we’d like to spend more time.

Dinner and Itsukushima Torii Gate at Low Tide

Once we walked back into the heart of the town, we noticed something had changed. Fewer people were out and about. Miyajima has a lot of day tourists, so the evenings seem a lot more chill. It was still pretty hot, so we decided to get ice cream…again. Twice in one day, why not? The server recognized us and gave us an additional scoop for free. Now it was time to see the torii gate again – at low tide.

The torii gate looked dramatically different. We walked onto the sand, which had been submerged not long ago. Now, a trickle flowed underneath the torii gate. Near the gate, we spotted various wildlife like small crabs. Eventually we made our way toward, and finally under, the torii gate. Being that close to the gate was a surreal and memorable experience.

For dinner, we decided to check out a brewery. I had been loving all the Japanese food we got on our trip, but I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to try some craft beer (though it’s less popular in Japan than in the US). Miyajima is known for oysters, which Kristin tried, as well as anago (fresh-water eel). I, on the other hand, really enjoyed the beer – especially the Blood Orange.

After dinner, we walked around and explored the area until it got dark. Stone lanterns by the water’s edge were lit for both ambiance and safety. At night, the shrine and torii gate are also illuminated, adding another element to their beauty and uniqueness. The gate in particular looked even more striking and majestic at night. By then, we were pretty tired, so we headed back to Sakuraya to crash.

The next morning we got a small breakfast of toast, salad, egg, tea, and juice for ¥500 through Sakuraya, (we had to request it the night before). After breakfast, it was time to go! We boarded the ferry back to Hiroshima, and sadly, our Miyajima adventure was over.

We wished we had more time to explore all that Miyajima has to offer. Specifically, I’d also like to hike up Mt. Misen next time (weather permitting), and further explore the east side of the island. The time flew by, but I was glad to finally see the torii gate that I’d seen in artwork since I was a kid.

Links

• Attractions
  • Setonaikai National Park Official Site (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Setonaikai (English)
  • Miyajima Tourist Association: Mt. Misen (English)
  • Japan Guide: Daisho-in Temple (English)
• Accomodations
  • Sakuraya (English)
• Restaurants
  • Miyajima Brewery (Japanese)
  • Baccano (Japanese)
• Other
  • Tides Near Me App (Google Play Store)

Maps

• Nature Hikes on Miyajima Maps (English) – Four maps of different courses on Miyajima. Lots of information, descriptions, and the best maps I had found for the island.

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One of the top tourist attractions in the Japanese Alps is the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (立山黒部アルペンルート). Located in northern Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen), the route takes visitors on a journey through the mountains. The trip involves multiple modes of transportation such as bus, trolley, and cable car. Highlights of the Alpine Route include the snow corridor, hiking trails, the Midagahara wetlands, Kurobe Dam, volcanic features, and scenic views. Each stop along the route has its own personality and attractions.

The Alpine Route is only accessible from mid-April through November due to snow accumulation. Hotels, mountain huts, and campgrounds are located along the route, so you can make your trip as long or short as you like. We chose to spend one night in Midagahara Hotel (弥陀ヶ原), just below the apex of the route.

Murodo, the highest point along the Alpine Route, is home to Mount Tate (立山, Tateyama). We hoped to climb it as a day hike, but ended up exploring hiking trails at Midagahara instead due to time constraints. We were able to check out the volcanic area around Murodo known as Hell Valley. Murodo also boasts a picturesque but pricey lodging option called Hotel Tateyama.

Day 1 – Toyama to Midagahara

The day after we completed our backpacking trip to Mount Yari (Yarigatake), we took a bus from Shinhotaka Onsen to Toyama. Our journey officially began in Toyama, on the west side of the Alpine Route. Alternately, you could start on the east side, in Shinano Omachi.

A train took us from the Dentetsu Toyama Station to Tateyama Station. As with all our train rides in Japan, it was wonderful. We passed lots of verdant rice farmland along the way. After arriving at Tateyama Station, we awaited our second mode of transportation: a cable car to Bijodaira.

Our final type of transportation for the day was a bus, which took us to Midagahara. The bus goes all the way to Murodo, but you can press a “stop button” to get off earlier. Plenty of other people got off at Midagahara too, so we didn’t need to press it ourselves. The bus ride was peaceful, and had some decent views. The guide pointed out Shomyo Falls – the tallest waterfall in Japan – on the left side, though it was hard to see. For a better view, you can take a bus from Tateyama Station, followed by a short hike.

We got off the bus at Midagahara, and checked into the western style hotel, naturally called Midagahara Hotel. They upgraded our room when we checked in. We had reserved a twin room, but we ended up with a larger room with a lovely view and three beds! …score? Midagahara is known for its surrounding wetlands, so our plan was to go hike!

Day 1 – Midagahara Boardwalk Outer Course Hike

A network of trails runs throughout the park, and behind Midagahara Hotel are a couple recommended circuits – an inner loop, and a larger outer loop. The outer loop is only 2.1 km (1.3 mi), so we decided on that one. The trail begins on a boardwalk, which is the best place to hike in my opinion. Hiking over water allows you to access places and plant life you wouldn’t normally be able to.

There were wildflowers along the hike, but figuring out what they all are takes some work! The views out from the boardwalk were gorgeous, with clouds that looked like steam escaping from the earth. Around the path are “Gaki-no-ta,” or small ponds. They look like rice paddy fields, and are said to have been created by a hungry demon. The reflections in the pool gave the area an ethereal ambiance.

Every so often the hotel does a guided tour of the wetlands. And we ran right into the group. The only bad thing about boardwalks is there’s not much room to get around people. The guided group stopped frequently to hear the guide (who was speaking Japanese, otherwise we would have joined). Eventually, we got around the group and continued past the turnoff for the inner loop.

The trail transitions back and forth from a stone path to a boardwalk, and crosses a small stream. It feels more confined in this section, with bamboo grass surrounding the trail. Near the end of the loop, we spotted some snow next to the trail – and it was mid-July!

Asian skunk cabbage was just starting to blossom near the trail. The hotel was in view at this point, so we headed that way. The last unique wildflower we saw was a type of purple marsh orchid, which excited me since I always love seeing any kind of orchid. Overall, we really enjoyed our short hike.

Back at the hotel, it was time for dinner. It included a regional specialty called shiroebitei – raw white shrimp sashimi from Toyama Bay. We weren’t quite sure how to eat them, but we really enjoyed this delicacy. There was also a Wagyu beef hot pot (it was amazing) and a selection of other delicious food.

Day 2 – Murodo

Early the next morning, we caught a bus to Murodo, the highest point along the Alpine Route. Near the top is a popular destination called the “snow corridor,” where the road can have snow walls up to 20 meters (66 feet) high on both sides. Spring is the best time to experience it, and the bus will stop so visitors can get out and explore. The snow walls were significantly lower when we visited in the summer, but we still enjoyed our brief glimpse from the bus window. As we expected, the temperature in this area was much cooler than it had been at lower elevation.

The bus dropped us off at the Murodo Bus Terminal, and we promptly went to explore. There are a multitude of trails nearby, and we decided to do a short loop hike around Mikurigaike Pond. Mikurigaike and other nearby ponds are volcanic, meaning (we think) that they were formed in a caldera after a volcanic eruption, and later filled with rainwater and snowmelt.

A typhoon was impacting the area, so it was very foggy and a bit rainy. We plunged into the murky fog as we started the trail across stone-lined paths. Notably, snow covered some parts of the trail.

Our first stop was Mikurigaike Pond, which was surrounded by snow. Around this time, the clouds started to lift, revealing much appreciated blue sky. The ponds seemed to come to life as they reflected sky overhead. Near Mikurigaike, we spotted a rock ptarmigan, known as raichō (雷鳥) in Japan. There’s a population of about 350 of them in the Murodo area, and we were lucky to spot one. They’re not afraid of people, so I was able to get a close-up photo.

Next, we passed Jigokudani (Hell Valley), a volcanic area that reminded me of Yellowstone National Park. A trail passes through it, but it had been closed due to a high concentration of volcanic gases. However, we could look down at the steam vents to see the gases rising from the area. Mikurigaike Onsen is located near the trail to Jigokudani, if you want to stop for a soak.

We continued onto a side trail toward Rindouike Pond, which was covered with snow, so the view was a little disappointing. We spotted some Chinoike, or Blood Ponds, which appear reddish due to the high concentration of iron oxide. The air smelled heavily of sulfur along this section of trail, so we turned around and headed back to the loop once the smell became too pervasive.

Midorigaike Pond was our next sight. Smaller than Mikurigaike, it was very picturesque and lined with wildflowers. Mount Tateyama rises up behind the pond, though its summit was obscured by clouds. We passed Tateyama Murodo Mountain Hut, and then finished our loop. It was lunch time, so we ate our onigiri bento from Midagahara Hotel. Afterward, we decided to continue along the Alpine Route. I wish we had more time to explore Murodo, particularly to hike Mount Tateyama.

Day 2 – Kurobe Dam

We climbed aboard a trolley, our fourth mode of transportation. It took us through Mount Tateyama via a tunnel, en route to Daikanbo. At Daikanbo, an observation station affords great views of the surrounding mountains. Kristin found an interesting snack here which we hadn’t seen before: gohei mochi, which is basically grilled mochi covered in a sweet soy sauce. It’s a specialty of the surrounding mountainous region of Central Japan. It was delicious and we bought more at every opportunity going forward.

From Daikanbo, we boarded our fifth unique mode of transport, a ropeway down to Kurobedaira. We enjoyed the views, but it was too crowded to get any good photos. From there, we took a cable car to Kurobe Dam.

The sixth mode of transport is simply walking across the dam itself. Built between 1956 and 1963, the dam is on a grand scale and provides gorgeous views of the Kurobe River. As we walked across, water gushed through the open spillway.

The dam is a true tourist attraction, and its many platforms provide a variety of spectacular views. We tried to capture the essence of the dam through photos, but its massive size made our task difficult. After scoping out a few different perspectives, we continued on the Alpine Route. We took our seventh and final mode of transport: an electric bus which traveled through a tunnel to Ogizawa. From there, we took a bus to Shinano Omachi, the terminus of the route.

The Alpine Route was such a unique experience, and it allowed us to see so much of central Japan in a relatively short time. If you have time, we highly recommend checking it out. However, what we did is only a snippet of what’s available, as there are many other attractions along the route. Our next destination would be something completely different: we would travel south to Itsukushima (厳島), also known as Miyajima or “Shrine Island,” in Setonaikai National Park.

Links

• Official Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route Website (English)
• Wikipedia: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (English)
• Japan Guide: Alpine Route (English)
• Japan Guide: Midagahara (English)
• Midagahara Hotel (English)
• Japan Guide: Murodo (English)

Map

The post Midagahara and Murodo on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route appeared first on KTNPBlog.

While our misadventures in Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi were over, the rain from Typhoon Prapiroon continued. But it was time to head to Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen). We’d be spending almost a full week exploring the park, which encompasses the Northern Japanese Alps, so there are many opportunities for hiking and backpacking. Our first hike would be to Mount Yake (焼岳, Yakedake), an active volcano, near the town of Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi).

Located in the southern part of Chubusangaku National Park, Kamikochi has spectacular views. It’s situated in a valley surrounded by mountains, so it’s a perfect jumping off point for hikes. The area is only open to visitors from mid/late April to November 15. Visitors have to take a bus or taxi to Kamikochi, since private vehicles are not permitted in the park.

The timeframe that we visited was both good and bad. It was the tail end of the rainy season, so it wasn’t crowded. In mid July, the park would get very busy. Days before we were set to arrive in Kamikochi, Typhoon Prapiroon hit Japan, causing widespread flooding. It significantly impacted our trip, so we worked around it (or through it) as best we could.

Unfortunately, we didn’t get to the summit of Mt. Yake. We made it about three-quarters of the way up the mountain before wind and rain drove us back into the more protected valley. We’ll detail our experiences below.

Kamikochi

The day we planned to travel from Lake Kawaguchi to Kamikochi, I got an email from Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (西糸屋山荘, Nishi-ito-ya Sansō), where we’d be staying in Kamikochi. We were informed that the narrow, winding road to Kamikochi was closed due to flooding. Never ones to give up, we decided to go anyway.

Thankfully, I got an email en route that the roads had re-opened, so we were relieved. Once we reached Matsumoto, we took a train to Shinshimashima, and then a bus to Kamikochi. Alpico, the operator of the route, provides a guide to help visitors travel to the park. The bus ride afforded mountain views as we entered the park. We also saw the swollen streams along the way, as rain continued to fall.

After about an hourlong bus ride, we arrived at Kamikochi Bus Terminal. Everything was soaked and dreary. Thankfully we had brought umbrellas. We made our way along the muddy path to Nishi-ito-ya Lodge. It’s a short walk, only about 10 minutes, and we crossed the picturesque Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi) on the way.

We had booked a traditional Japanese style room, which included a toilet and sink. Once we arrived at the lodge, we checked in and got organized. Afterward, we planned to explore the area around the lodge. At this point, it was still raining, and we borrowed some large umbrellas from Nishi-ito-ya, which were appreciated. We visited some small shops, and bought a few snacks and gifts.

Kamikochi’s most famous attraction is Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi), which is close to Nishi-ito-ya. The bridge, named after a mythical aquatic Japanese creature, has become a symbol of the area. On an average day, you can see breathtaking views of the surrounding Hotaka Mountains, but on this day we couldn’t see much other than clouds. However, it was still quite pretty. Back at the lodge, we stored all our wet gear in the drying room. The staff helped us figure out where to put everything.

Nishi-ito-ya has a communal bath, and this would be our first time experiencing that. I was a bit nervous using the public bath initially, but Kristin was a bit more adventurous. After bathing, we dined at Nishi-ito-ya and got to bed early. We planned to hike to Mount Yake the next day, assuming the weather cooperated.

To Mount Yake

Mount Yake is an active volcano. Its Japanese name, Yakedake, means “burning mountain.” The highest peak is at 2,455 meters (8,054 feet), and there’s a small lake between the two main peaks.

We planned to hike to the summit of Mt. Yake (Yakedake). The route from Kappa Bridge to Mt. Yake is a 12.7 km (7.9 mi) out-and-back (round trip). The hike boasts gorgeous views, volcanic features like steam vents (fumaroles), and precariously placed ladders. It’s a strenuous hike, with 1,062 meters (3,481 feet) in elevation gain/loss. A mountain hut, called Yakedake Goya (焼岳小屋), is located near the summit. Reservations are required to stay overnight.

The next morning, it was still pouring, but we were tired of cancelling plans. After breakfast, we picked up the bento we had requested the night before from Nishi-ito-ya; this would be our lunch on the trail.

After leaving Nishi-ito-ya, we turned right onto the main trail. Our route took us south, beside the Azusa River (梓川, Azusagawa). There are multiple intersecting trails here. While some are paved, we mainly used the gravel path by the river. Usually, the Azusa River is a lucid blue (or so we heard), but on this day it was turbid and murky. The rain slowed, and even stopped intermittently. This was an improvement, so we kept going, and noticed other visitors who were equally committed to exploring the area.

Next to the path, we came upon Weston Monument, a small relief of Walter Weston (1861-1940). He introduced western mountain climbing to Kamikochi and is credited with popularizing the area as the “Japanese Alps.” Conveniently, there’s also a restroom located nearby.

We passed some hotels and lodges, followed by Tashiro Bridge on our left. Then, the trail veered away from the river. As we were hiking, we heard a loud roaring sound, and wondered if we were in trouble. Thankfully, we quickly realized it was a swollen stream flowing underneath the trail. All the streams we’d seen were at a higher volume than normal, so it shouldn’t have been a surprise.

Shortly after, we ran into a sign blocking our path. We had no clue what it said, but we assumed it said something about cars not being allowed past this section (and you know what they say about assuming), so we went around and continued on. Later, Google Translate helped us determine that the sign stated that “traffic is prohibited due to mudflow.” Thankfully, that hadn’t been an issue. We turned right onto the main trail to Mt. Yake. At this point the trail turned from a level walking path to more of a true hiking trail.

Climbing Mount Yake, Sort of

While we had seen other visitors on the gravel path along the river, we saw no one in the forest. The trail was rocky, wet, and muddy, with a subtle but increasingly steep incline. Water was everywhere! Streams flowed on, across, and through the trail. It was still raining, but the path became too narrow to use our umbrellas, so we had to rely on our other rain gear. As we crossed bridges, roaring streams flowed underneath them. The weather was miserable, but we were still enjoying the hike.

Along the trail we spotted a frog (or possibly a toad?), and I spent a lot of time trying a get a good photo. Probably too long, as Kristin was ready to move. As we continued, we started encountering multiple ladders along the trail. They’re kind of fun, but also scary since the ladders aren’t always in the best shape. They looked rickety, but they felt solid.

Some of the bridges go over a gap between rocks, which also seemed sketchy at first. Thankfully, there are handholds – either chains or ropes. Some of the ladders are literally just placed vertically on a hillside, and are attached to rods that have been hammered into the hill. At one ladder, we encountered a worker carrying gear on his back in crates. We guessed he worked at one of the mountain huts. He would be the only person we’d see before returning from our hike.

After ascending a ways, we started to get some scenic mountain and valley views. Thick clouds covered the sky, but the rain had stopped temporarily. After hiking up a hillside we reached the tallest ladder yet, going up a cliff. On closer inspection, it was actually multiple smaller ladders attached to each other. It looked scary, but wasn’t that bad when we actually got on it. Looking back, the photos appear scarier than the hike actually felt.

As we continued, we encountered chains to help us climb up the rock face. We were back under tree cover, but we could tell the rain was picking up again. As we entered an open area, weather conditions became rainy and very windy. Our umbrellas were useless at this point, but we continued on.

Eventually, we took a break under tree cover to eat lunch. The bento boxes were nothing special – two onigiri with raw umeboshi and a small fish. Breakfast and dinner had been very good at Nishi-ito-ya, so it was disappointing.

After reviewing our map, we realized we were close to Yakedake Goya mountain hut. But the weather was getting worse, we were already soaked, and we couldn’t see much because of the clouds. We also acknowledged that we could be in trouble if the weather suddenly worsened. It was disappointing, but we decided to hike back down.

We made good time on our way back down. The rain and wind cleared up as we descended into the protected valley. At that point, we decided to stay on the paved trail, away from the river since we had taken the gravel paths on the way to Mt. Yake. The paved trail doubles as a maintenance road, so we had to watch out for vehicles.

Near a trail intersection with the Mt. Nishihotaka (西穂高岳, Nishihotakadake) trailhead, we saw an animal that made the whole hike worth it: a Japanese macaque in a tree. It was the first monkey we’ve ever seen in the wild! It was a novel experience, so we snapped some photos, and made sure to keep our distance. Eventually we moved on, passing the small Oyama Shrine (Oyamanokami), or shrine to the Mountain God.

Back at Nishi-ito-ya, we were exhausted and soaked. The friendly front desk employee helped us with our gear and outerwear – shoes, umbrellas, backpack covers, rain pants, and rain jackets. He hung them up to dry, while we put on slippers and headed toward a much appreciated hot bath in the ofuro (Japanese bath), followed by dinner.

We can’t give a complete guide or review of the hike to Mt. Yake since we didn’t actually finish it. The unique obstacles – ladders, chains, and bridges – provided a fun challenge, so I can see us enjoying the hike in milder weather. I was looking forward to seeing the views and volcanic features, and maybe someday we’ll get another chance.

Mount Yake Trail

Date: Saturday, July 7, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 12.7 km (7.9 mi)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1,062 meters (3,481 ft)
Time: 6.5 hours to do 75% of the hike in terrible weather. Our Shobunsha Mapple map of the trail estimates around 8 hours for the entire hike.
Trail Markings: Signs at intersections
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: A few people along the river only
Water: River, many streams, a volcanic lake at the top we didn’t get to.
Highlights: Volcanic features, views, water, mountain hut, wildlife, wildflowers
Directions to Kappa Bridge (Kappabashi): Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 km (0.0 mi) – From Kappa Bridge (Kappabashi), head southwest along the path with the Azusa River on your left. You’ll pass Nishi-ito-ya and other lodges on your right. Numerous paths, paved and unpaved, go parallel to the river. All trails lead to Mt. Yake.
• 1.1 km (0.7 mi) – You’ll arrive at an intersection with a restroom, and then the Weston Memorial. Continue heading southwest, either along the paved transport road or gravel path by the river (distances are for gravel path). You’ll pass two onsen hotels on your right.
• 1.5 km (0.9 mi) – Arrive near Tashiro Bridge and around the Mt. Nishihotaka Trailhead. There are a few intersecting trails/roads here; just follow signs for Mt. Yake.
• 2.3 km (1.4 mi) – Turn right to exit the walking path, and begin the hiking trail to Mt. Yake. There is a large sign indicating the turnoff. Elevation gain begins here.
• 5.0 km (3.1 mi) – Turn left toward Mt. Yake. Yakedake Goya mountain hut is located at this intersection, if you want to make it an overnight.
• 5.4 km (3.4 mi) – Continue straight past the intersection.
• 6.3 km (3.9 mi) – Turn right onto a short path to Mt. Yake
• 6.35 km (3.95 mi) – At the end of the trail, turn around and head back down when ready.
• 6.4 km (4.0 mi) – Turn left and return to the main trail to head back down.
• 7.3 km (4.5 mi) – Continue straight past the intersection.
• 7.7 km (4.8 mi) – Turn right, going past Yakedake Goya.
• 10.4 km (6.5 mi) – Turn left, onto the level walking path heading north to Kamikochi.
• 11.3 km (7.0 mi) – Continue straight, past Tashiro Bridge and Mt. Nishihotaka Trailhead. You can return via the transport road or paths by the river. If you take the transport road, you’ll pass a small shrine on your left.
• 11.7 km (7.3 mi) – At the intersection with Weston Monument, take the paved or gravel path.
• 12.7 km (7.9 mi) – Back at Kappa Bridge!

Maps

• Mount Yake Trail Map (KTNP) – A map we created for the hike in English
• Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi 2024 (Shobunsha Mapple, Map #40, Amazon.co.jp) – A map of the Kamikochi area, including Mt. Yake. It’s analogous to the National Geographic maps you might get in North America. Even though it’s in Japanese, you can still understand the map if you don’t speak the language.

Links

• Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi)
  • Kamikochi Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Kamikochi (English)
  • Chubusangaku National Park Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Chubu Sangaku National Park (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Chubusangaku (English)
  • Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (English) – Where we stayed in Kamikochi, highly recommended.
  • Guide on How to Travel Between Kamikochi and Matsumoto by Bus (English)
  • Kamikochi, Wikipedia (English)
• Mount Yake (焼岳, Yakedake)
  • Mount Yake, Wikipedia (English)
  • Yakedake Goya (Japanese) – Mountain hut near the summit of Mt. Yake. Reservations required.

Places

• Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge | Kamikochi-4469-1 Azumi, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-1516, Japan
• Kappa Bridge | 36.248797, 137.637861
• Weston Monument | 36.246981, 137.626717
• Yakedake Goya | 36.236859, 137.594121

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Exploring Kamikochi and Mount Yake appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Back in 2018, we explored several regions of Japan, and we were particularly excited to finally visit some international National Parks. And we decided to start by hiking the big one: Mount Fuji (富士山, Fujisan). After that, we planned to stay in the town of Fujikawaguchiko (富士河口湖町, Fujikawaguchiko-machi), located beside Lake Kawaguchi (河口湖, Kawaguchiko) at the base of Mt. Fuji.

Spoiler alert: we weren’t able to climb Mt. Fuji, but we had fun anyway. This post details the bit we did get to experience on Mt. Fuji and in the town of Fujikawaguchiko (also located within Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park).

Planning

Mount Fuji is located in Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park (富士箱根伊豆国立公園, Fuji-Hakone-Izu Kokuritsu Kōen), southwest of Tokyo. The mountain is divided into 10 “stations,” ascending from bottom to top. We decided to start from the Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station, which is about halfway up and is accessible by bus.

There are four main trails to climb Mt. Fuji. It would be our first time hiking Fuji, so we chose the Yoshida Trail, which is the safest and most popular. It’s also easy to access from Tokyo, and has plenty of amenities. The route is around 9 miles round-trip (14.4 km), with over 4,800 feet (1463 m) of cumulative elevation gain.

We decided to make it an overnight so we could experience the sunrise. That requires waking up super early and climbing to the summit, which is supposed to be somewhat miserable…but we figured we’d be disappointed if we didn’t do it.

Scattered around Mt. Fuji are huts where guests can stay the night. Reservations are required, so we reserved spots at the Fujisan Hotel (located at the 8th Station), through Fuji Mountain Guides. This service was helpful because we were able to make our request online in English, and they booked the reservation for us.

Next, we needed transportation to Mt. Fuji, so we bought bus tickets from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station. We chose a bus with a restroom (not all buses have them) since the ride was around 2.5 hours. Two companies run buses from Shinjuku to Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station: Fujikyu and Keio. We made a reservation on a Keio bus through highwaybus.com for 6:45 a.m. The soonest we could make a reservation was around 30 days out.

We had planned our trip for early summer (the end of the rainy season) to avoid extreme crowding, so we knew there was a chance for storms. Other blogs were a good source for suggested gear. We already owned most of what we needed, but decided to purchase some heavier duty gloves and thermal base layers in case of cold or rainy weather.

Sadly, we had to call off our hike due to Typhoon Prapiroon. There’s not much you can do about 56 mph (90 km/h) winds, driving rain, and mudslides. Safety is our priority, and we try to remain flexible.

Tokyo to Mt. Fuji

Prior to attempting to hike Mt. Fuji, we stayed in Asakusa in Tokyo. Around 6:15 a.m., we took the admirably efficient train system to Shinjuku Station, then walked to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal above the JR Shinjuku Station. On the way, we made a quick stop at FamilyMart in the bus terminal for onigiri and sandwiches.

At 6:45, we boarded the bus and began navigating the streets of Tokyo. The bus was less than half full. I blame the rainy and dreary weather. We knew there was a possibility we’d have to cancel our hike, but we still had hope at this point. We kept an eye on the forecast, but it wasn’t very promising.

The bus ride was mostly uneventful, and we started to ascend Mt. Fuji. Hikers can start at the base of the mountain too, but we figured it would be challenging enough from the halfway point.

Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station

At 9:20 a.m., the bus arrived at the 5th station. It was pouring rain, windy, cold, and generally yucky. I almost didn’t want to get off the bus. But we hopped off, grabbed our backpacks from underneath the bus, and ran to the closest shelter we could find – a souvenir shop and lodge called Fujikyu Unjokaku.

As we pondered our next steps, we chatted with some other hikers, particularly about the inclement weather. Everyone seemed to be wondering what to do next. We stalled a bit by using the restroom and getting lunch. All public restrooms on the mountain cost 100 yen (we brought change).

Upstairs, the restaurant area was crowded with people who seemingly just finished their hike. We talked with a couple people who descended Mt. Fuji earlier that day and said it was miserable. They also mentioned that the weather had been perfect the previous day.

We ordered tempura udon and hoto, both of which were surprisingly delicious given the lack of other options. After we ate, we put on our rain gear, and decided to check the visitor information center. There, we were promptly told that hikers were not allowed to climb due to the current weather conditions.

So that was that. There were high winds, along with warnings about flooding and mud slides. Japan was hit hard by the typhoon, and there were even some deaths. Southern Japan was impacted the most, and we were fortunate to be further north.

We were disappointed (though not surprised), as were other hikers. Summitting Fuji is a lifelong dream for some. I was, however, relieved that we wouldn’t be hiking in those conditions. So, now what?

Our plan had been to travel to Lake Kawaguchi the following day, after completing our hike. We briefly discussed staying the night at the 5th Station, but instead decided we would travel to Lake Kawaguchi a day early so we could maximize our time and enjoyment on our international trip. The visitor center staff called Fujisan Hotel (our mountain hut) to cancel that reservation for us.

Before leaving, we explored the 5th station. We checked out the gift shops, then found Fujisan Komitake Shrine behind some buildings. The shrine was under construction, and even with the rain and wind, workers were doing some repairs.

We explored the picturesque temple, and got our goshuin stamped. In another small gift shop, we talked with a few employees, who kindly gave us some snacks. After looking around, we went to the bus booth and purchased our tickets to Kawaguchiko Station. The cost was 1,540 yen per person for a 45 minute ride.

Lake Kawaguchi – Day 1

Upon arriving in the lakeside town, the bus dropped us off at Kawaguchiko Station. We only had our backpacks with us. Our other luggage had been sent via Takkyubin to Kasuitei Ooya (花水庭おおや), the hotel where we planned to stay in Lake Kawaguchi.

At Kawaguchiko Station, we found a visitor center where the employees spoke English. They were able to book us a room at Katsuitei Ooya for that night. The only room available was a Japanese-style room – it was more expensive, but we were excited to stay there. The following night we’d have to switch to the western-style room we’d reserved previously.

The walk from the station to Katsuitei Ooya is only about 15 minutes. Conveniently, the hotel also provides a shuttle from the station, so we decide to take it. After a short drive, we checked in and went to our room – and were pleasantly surprised. Our Japanese-style room was spacious, and had a balcony with a gorgeous view of Lake Kawaguchi.

We were excited to explore Fujikawaguchiko. Afterall, the town is located inside a National Park. This concept intrigued us, since it’s quite different from National Parks in the United States. Thankfully, it wasn’t raining in town, but views of Mt. Fuji were non-existent. However, the sky and town were incredibly beautiful and serene.

Near our hotel, we browsed a row of small gift shops. We passed Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway which takes visitors to an observation deck near the peak of Mount Tenjo called Tenjoyama Park. Given the weather, we were unlikely to have a view of Mt. Fuji, but Travis and I agreed to check it out the following day (it was a must-do).

It was dinner time, so we searched online and found a tempura place called Fuji Tempura Idaten. It was a bit of a hike to get there, and it was some of the best tempura we’ve had. If you’re visiting Lake Kawaguchi, we highly recommend it – especially the asparagus tempura. The area is also well known for hoto, a thick miso stew with wide noodles. We planned to try that the following evening.

Lake Kawaguchi – Day 2

The next morning, we had a rather elaborate breakfast in the dining room at Katsuitei Ooya. We were looking to immerse ourselves in Japanese culture, so we wore our yukata. We weren’t sure if others would be wearing those or street clothes, but it was about 50/50. And they were pretty comfy too!

Next, we walked to Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway. It was raining on and off, but we were excited. After purchasing our tickets, we boarded the gondola. The views of the lake, mountains, and town were jaw-dropping. It was so gorgeous, even on a day with thick clouds, I doubt there is ever a bad view from there. Taking a slow day to explore is not our usual, and Lake Kawaguchi was the perfect place to do that.

At the top are multiple little attractions, as well as a gift shop. Scattered throughout the observation area are statues of a tanuki and a rabbit. These characters represent the Japanese fable Kachi-Kachi Yama – how a rabbit gets revenge against an evil tanuki…it’s actually a pretty dark story. Naturally, there’s also a small shrine to rabbits.

The clouds were so thick that we didn’t have a view of Mt. Fuji’s summit – but we could see the base. There are a few hiking trails up there, too. One is a long dayhike to Mount Mitsutoge (~6 hours round-trip), which unfortunately we didn’t know about at the time. Instead, we chose a much shorter 20 minute round-trip hike to the top of Mount Tenjo. The trail goes through woods and leads to a small shrine. We doubled back and took the ropeway down.

Once back down, we happened by Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine, and noticed a hiking trail that started there as well. We later learned that it leads up to Mount Tenjo and is called the “Hydrangea Route” since native hydrangea bloom there from mid-July to late-August. It was too late for us to hike it, but we were impressed with the hiking and walking options in the area. We also found a small shrine near a neighborhood.

The neighborhood itself was a peaceful, cute residential area with gardens in the back. We enjoyed getting a glimpse of the vernacular architecture and everyday Japanese life. It seemed like we often had a more authentic cultural experience when we got away from the hustle and bustle of the major cities and popular tourist attractions.

We were getting hungry, and we wanted to check out Hoto Fudo, a well known restaurant near Kawaguchiko Station. For whatever reason, they had closed early. Bummer. We searched online and found another hoto place called Koshu Hoto Kosaku, which was a 25-minute walk from our hotel. That wasn’t going to dissuade us though. The experience was worth the walk, as the food was delicious, and the ambiance was perfect. There are low tables, and it’s a huge space which we had almost entirely to ourselves.

Kawaguchiko – Day 3

The next day, we took a train from Lake Kawaguchi to Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), which is located in Chubu Sangaku National Park. We were ready for our next adventure, a three-day backpacking route up to Yarigatake. But the typhoon was still in full force throughout much of Japan, so once again we weren’t sure what to expect. Thankfully, Yarigatake would be much more successful than our Mt. Fuji climb.

Links

• Mount Fuji (富士山, Fujisan)
  • Fuji Mountain Guides – Reservations (English) – Third party service that will reserve Fuji mountain huts for guests
  • Highwaybus.com (English) – Shinjuku to Mt. Fuji Bus Reservations
  • Official Site for Climbing Mt. Fuji (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Climbing Mt Fuji (English)
  • Official Site for Climbing Mt. Fuji (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Climbing Mt Fuji (English)
  • Fuji Mountain Guides – Recommended Gear (English)
  • Gary J Wolff Climbing Mt. Fuji FAQ (English)
  • Fujikyu Unjokaku (English) – Souvenir shop, restaurant, and lodging at Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station
• Lake Kawaguchi (河口湖, Kawaguchiko)
  • Kasuitei Ooya (English) – Ryokan where we stayed in Kawaguchiko
  • Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (English)
  • Tenjoyama Park (English) – at the top of Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway
  • Fuji Tempura Idaten (Japanese, English translation available)
  • Koshu Hoto Kosaku (Japanese)

Places

• Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal | Japan, 〒151-0051 Tokyo, Shibuya City, 千駄ヶ谷５丁目２４ 55
• Mt. Fuji Subaru Line – 5th Station | Japan, 〒401-0320 Yamanashi, Minamitsuru District, Narusawa, 富士山五合目
• Fuji San Hotel | Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi 403-0005, Japan
• Kawaguchiko Station | 3641 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Kasuitei Ooya | 4025 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine | 4213 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Koshu Houtou Kosaku | 1638-1 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan

Interactive Map

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Our last hike in Canyonlands National Park would be one to remember. We only had the morning, since we planned to drive to Grand Junction, CO that afternoon. Our trail was a 1.6 mile out and back to False Kiva, an archaeological site tucked away in an alcove. It turned out to be our favorite hike (so far) in the Island in the Sky District.

A kiva is a large, circular, underground room. They were used by the Puebloans, the native people of that region, for religious purposes. The round structure found at the end of this hike is not a true kiva, since there is no underground area. There is some uncertainty surrounding its exact origins and intended purpose. True kivas can be seen at Mesa Verde National Park or Bandelier National Monument.

We hesitated to write a post about False Kiva because it is a Class II archaeological site. The trail does not appear on park maps in order to limit access, since the site is more vulnerable to visitor impacts. Interestingly, it used to be on AllTrails, but was removed in 2021. However, if you ask a Park Ranger, they’ll tell you how to find the trail.

We visited in March 2018 (yes, we are slow at blogging – good thing we took copious notes). Back then, the site was fully explorable. But in August of 2018, the alcove site was vandalized and closed indefinitely. You can still hike the trail, but a chain blocks entry into the alcove itself. The “kiva” is now inaccessible, but you can see it from a distance. The vandalism is very unfortunate, especially given how much we enjoyed the trail and archeological site.

The Trail

It takes some effort to find the trailhead. Asking a park ranger is the easiest and safest way. When we stopped to ask about the trail at Island in the Sky Visitor Center, the ranger brought out a laminated sheet with information on the location and points of interest along the trail.

From the visitor center, we drove west toward Upheaval Dome. Our parking was a small pull-off with just enough space. From there, we crossed the road and headed south. Some juniper logs were lined up along the edge, near a bend in the road. Behind the logs, a well worn trail begins.

We didn’t see anyone else heading onto the trail, but near the start we did meet a group that was coming back from the kiva. So we knew we were on the right track. While the trail isn’t heavily travelled, it was easy for us to follow. Initially, it goes through an area with various shrubs, like blackbrush, and juniper in the distance. Far out, we could see into a canyon called Upper West Basin, and beyond. A prominent rock formation stood ahead of us – I never figured out its name.

The dirt trail beat its way through the desert. Eventually, we started following cairns that guided us through the rocky sections. Along the way, we spotted a few lizards, which we always enjoy seeing. Before long, we reached the edge of the rim and looked out across the canyon. It was a gorgeous view, with Candlestick Tower on our left. The unknown rock formation we had seen earlier was on our right.

The trail started descending down a rocky slope. Based on the photo the park ranger had shown us, we knew we were getting close to the kiva. Looking around, we kept trying to find the alcove in advance. It’s surprisingly well hidden. Once we reached the bottom of the slope, the trail wound its way across a narrow rocky shelf. Eventually, the trail curved sharply to the right, almost doubling back on itself. This brought us closer to the large rock wall that had been to our right since we had descended. We had views out into the canyons the whole way.

False Kiva

Suddenly, after scrambling up a small sandstone incline, we were there! Thankfully, we had the place to ourselves. We had only passed one other group on the way, and it was so peaceful and quiet. We took photos and enjoyed the gorgeous scenery.

The area is known for a famous view of the Kiva in the foreground, and the canyons in the background. Lighting for photography was just okay in the morning; afternoon lighting would probably be better. But we’re glad we got to see it while we could. With the kiva alcove being indefinitely closed to visitors, this view is no longer possible.

Admiring the carefully stacked stones of the kiva, we speculated on its history. It would have been great to learn more about the people who created it and what the site was used for. A small area, which contained some archeological digging, was roped off. A green ammo box held some information, as well as a visitor log. Flipping through it, we saw the breadth of people who had visited from all over the world. We added our names to the list.

Eventually, other hikers arrived, and we deemed it best to let them enjoy the site in peace. So we headed back the way we came. Overall, the trail is moderate, but the ascent up the rocky slope was the most difficult part for us. At the trailhead, we met a third group that was heading for the kiva.

False Kiva is a beautiful and special place, and we’re saddened that we may not be able to visit again. But, even if you can’t get as close to the kiva, it’s still a worthwhile experience. If you visit, please treat it with respect, follow all signs and restrictions, and enjoy this remarkable place.

False Kiva Trail

Date: Friday, March 30, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 715 feet (218 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including spending about 30 minutes at False Kiva
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and an obvious social trail. Even though this is not a maintained trail, it’s easy to follow.
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins, Off the beaten path
Directions to Trailhead: Ask a park ranger
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Links

• False Kiva (Wikipedia)
• Candlestick Tower (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

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One trail we wanted to hike in Canyonlands National Park was the Syncline Loop. It’s an 8.3 mile route that surrounds Upheaval Dome in the Island in the Sky District. The trail is long and difficult, so unfortunately we didn’t have the time to do the hike. Instead, we decided to do Upheaval Dome Trail, a short 1.6 mile out and back hike. The path goes to two overlooks with views of Upheaval Dome. We hoped it would give us a glimpse of what the Syncline Loop would offer.

What is Upheaval Dome? I’m glad you asked. It’s an area roughly three miles across where the rock layers are deformed. In the center, the rocks are pushed up into a dome-like structure (an anticline). A downward fold in the rock (or syncline) surrounds the dome. What caused it? No one is quite sure, but there are two prevailing theories. The first is that it is an impact crater caused by a meteorite hitting the Earth. The second is that it’s a salt dome, where salt flows while under pressure and creates deformities in the surrounding rock over millions of years. Most recent research supports the impact crater hypothesis.

First Overlook

After checking out Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte, we drove to the end of Upheaval Dome Road. We parked in the lot for Upheaval Dome and the Syncline Loop. The trail begins on the west side of the lot. After starting the hike, we came to an intersection with Syncline Loop Trail almost immediately. It would have to wait for another time, so we kept going straight on Upheaval Dome Trail.

The trail started to ascend. The first overlook is only 0.3 miles from the intersection, so it took no time at all to get there. Situated on a large sandstone rock face, the first overlook gave us an initial view of the dome.

Greenish rocks surround a red rock formation inside the crater. We later talked to a ranger who said the green color was caused by iron, while the red is due to oxidation (rust). It looks otherworldly, but also familiar. A nearby sign gives some geological information about Upheaval Dome. Even though there are only two official “overlooks,” there are plenty of other opportunities for views into Upheaval Dome.

Second Overlook

Following rock cairns along the trail, we ascended and descended over more sandstone. The second overlook is only half a mile from the first. In places, small steps had been cut into some sandstone to assist hikers. We admonished a small boy who was rolling rocks down the sandstone. Normally, we might not say anything, but…it seemed pretty dangerous.

Surrounded by metal fencing, the second overlook was much like the first. It didn’t offer a radically different view. So if time is short, you could skip the second overlook. Nearby I found some spring wildflowers, including Indian paintbrush, which I was more interested in.

While I’m glad we did Upheaval Dome, I wasn’t particularly impressed with the hike overall. It was very cool to see the dome initially, but the hike got kind of same-y after the first overlook. The views are interesting, and I did enjoy the geology and mystery of its formation. Even though I wasn’t wowed by this trail, I’d still like to go back to do the Syncline Loop someday…maybe as a one-night backpacking trip!

Upheaval Dome Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 462 feet (141 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: Moderate
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History
Directions to Upheaval Dome Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head north toward the Upheaval Dome Trailhead. Start on the trail, and after 250 feet, continue straight at the intersection with the Syncline Trail to continue on the Upheaval Dome Trail.
• 0.3 mi – A short (~180 feet) side trail to the right leads to the first overlook. After checking it out, head back the way you came and turn right to continue.
• 0.9 mi – At the end of the trail is the second overlook. When ready, turn around and retrace your steps back to the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – The hike is finished!

Places

• Upheaval Dome | 38.437492, -109.928600
• First Overlook | 38.428919, -109.929169
• Second Overlook | 38.431669, -109.935347

Maps

• Upheaval Dome Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Upheaval Dome (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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A butte is a striking rock formation, defined as an isolated steep hill with often vertical sides and a flat top. It was time for us to hike to one in Canyonlands National Park. Aztec Butte is a 1.6-mile out and back that leads to the top of a butte, with a side trail to see some Puebloan ruins. We were particularly looking forward to the archeological features of the area. The drive to the Aztec Butte trailhead was only about a mile from Mesa Arch Trail, which we had just hiked.

The parking lot was fairly empty, especially compared to Mesa Arch, so we anticipated more solitude. The trail is rocky at the start, before giving way to a sandy path. After a short 0.3 miles, we reached the first intersection. Taking a right would lead us directly to Aztec Butte, but we turned left toward the Puebloan granary ruins on a separate, smaller butte. The trail took us up some slickrock, and gave us a view into Taylor Canyon in the distance. Rock cairns guided us to the granaries, which are sheltered by a rock ledge.

Alongside the ruins are some informative park signs. We learned that Ancestral Puebloans stored pots and baskets containing food, water, and seeds to be protected in the granary. We explored and took some photos. Built between 1200 and 1300 AD, the two granaries we saw seem to be well preserved. On a side note, please remember not to touch or enter them.

After checking out the granaries, we retraced our steps and continued on the main trail. At the base of Aztec Butte, we were greeted by a steep 200 foot ascent. The sandstone is beautiful, with striations in shades of red, white, and brown. It was totally exposed to the sun as we climbed, but it’s a short and enjoyable route with some scenic views.

A vaguely defined trail loops around the top of Aztec Butte. Along the loop are other structures. Some might be authentic, but others may have been constructed more recently – we didn’t see any signs at the top to explain the history, though. For example, a four-walled stone structure sits at the southeast corner of the butte.

There are other ruins scattered around the butte, but some are harder to find than others. We didn’t know it at the time, but there are granaries just below the west ridge of the butte. After exploring more, we headed back the way we came. We pondered why the site is called Aztec Butte, and thought it might be a misnomer, but we haven’t been able find a source explaining its name.

Both Aztec Butte and Mesa Arch are fun hikes with sweeping views, though they are very different. We preferred Aztec Butte Trail since it’s a longer hike with fewer crowds and a rich history. And as a bonus, we kept joking about how “butte-iful” the area is.

Aztec Butte Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 283 feet (86 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: A few other groups
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head east on Aztec Butte Trail.
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection, turn left toward the Puebloan Granaries.
• 0.4 mi – Arrive at the granaries. Explore, then head back the way you came.
• 0.6 mi – Back at the intersection, turn left toward Aztec Butte. You’ll ascend about 190 feet to the top.
• 0.8 mi – Arrive at the top of Aztec Butte. Head either way on the vaguely defined loop trail.
• 1.0 mi – Back at the start of the loop. Go back the way you came to descend.
• 1.3 mi – At the intersection with the granaries, go straight back toward the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Aztec Butte | 38.397298, -109.874844

Maps

• Aztec Butte Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Aztec Butte Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Aztec Butte Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

After setting up our tent at Willow Flat Campground in Canyonlands National Park, it was time to go hiking! We were in Island in the Sky, the most easily accessible district of the park. The two closest hikes to the campground are Mesa Arch and Aztec Butte. We planned to hike both, and we started with Mesa Arch Trail.

If you’ve ever seen a photo of Canyonlands, odds are it was of Mesa Arch. It’s one of the most photographed spots in the park. The arch is situated on the edge of a cliff, with a view of canyons, mountains, and other rock formations beyond. It’s also a popular place for sunrise photos – time it right and you can frame the sun as it rises through the arch. We weren’t too concerned about getting a sunrise shot, but we still got there early in the morning.

We found a parking spot, and started down the dusty trail. The route is an easy 0.7 mile loop, and it was crowded. Almost immediately, the canyons and snow-capped La Sal Mountains became visible in the distance. We passed several small signs with information about various native plants. I enjoy seeing these on trails, since it helps me learn more about the flora in the area.

Mesa Arch

After 10-15 minutes of hiking, we arrived at the 27 foot long Mesa Arch. It features a wide scenic view into Buck Canyon. I think the arches in Arches National Park are more picturesque (who would’ve thought?), though the view here is striking. From the canyon to the rock formations to the La Sal Mountains, there are so many sights to take in. Mesa Arch frames the canyon landscape beautifully. If you look closely toward the east from Mesa Arch, you can also see Washer Woman Arch.

There was a crowd of people waiting to take a picture with the arch, so we got in line. Unfortunately, there were a few people who didn’t seem to care about the line, and they just walked up to the arch and got their photos. We weren’t too surprised. It’s more likely that you’ll run into visitors who are unfamiliar with hiking etiquette on easy, short, popular trails. This was completely different from the experience we had at the challenging 3.2 mile trail to Delicate Arch.

Mesa Arch is a “pothole arch” that formed when water on the ground pooled near sandstone, slowly eroding it until it formed a hole. This arch looks different from most of the ones found in Arches NP because those are primarily formed from sandstone fins (there are many fins in Arches NP, but significantly fewer in Canyonlands).

After we finally got our photo with Mesa Arch, we walked around and admired the scenery before continuing on. After a short walk, which included some stone steps and more plant signs, we completed the loop and returned to the parking lot. Near the end, we could see our next destination in the distance: Aztec Butte. While Mesa Arch was a must-see for us, we don’t consider it one of the best hikes in the park. And after hiking it, we were ready for a longer and more challenging hike, with more solitude.

Mesa Arch Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Loop day hike
Total Distance: 0.7 miles (1.1 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 94 feet (29 m)
Time: 1 hour, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A lot. Everywhere.
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, Plants
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – At the trailhead, go counterclockwise (right path). You could go either direction on the loop though.
• 0.3 mi – Arrive at Mesa Arch, then continue back on the trail to complete the loop.
• 0.7 mi – Arrive back at the parking lot

Places

• Mesa Arch | 38.3885673, -109.8668391
• Washer Woman Arch | 38.388989, -109.837127

Maps

• Isle in the Sky Map (NPS)

Links

• Mesa Arch (NPS)
• Washer Woman Arch (Wikipedia)
• Airport Tower (Wikipedia)
• Monster Tower (Wikipedia)

Interactive Map

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Our trip to Arches National Park was an adventure. We’ve captured our favorite hikes, dislikes, what we wished we had done, and other tips. We also provide information about visitation statistics and weather which are important considerations when visiting any national park. Here are our takeaways – we hope you can use it as a planning guide for your trip to Arches.

Overview

Arches National Park, located in eastern Utah near the town of Moab, was established to protect the high density of natural sandstone arches, bridges, and other rock formations. Established in 1929 as a National Monument, it was designated as a National Park in 1971. It’s the home of the well known Delicate Arch, which can be seen on tourism literature as well as the Utah state license plate. The fifth longest arch in the world, Landscape Arch, is also in the park.

American author Edward Abbey had been a park ranger in Arches NP from 1956 to 1957. His book, Desert Solitaire, chronicles his experiences within the park. Travis read the book before our trip, which gave him a better understanding of the area.

Compared to other National Parks, Arches is on the smaller side at 76,678 acres. This is similar in size to Theodore Roosevelt and Great Basin National Parks. It’s small enough that we felt like we had a good understanding of the park as a whole by the end of our 5-day visit.

There are plenty of recreational opportunities within the park including hiking, camping, backpacking, and canyoneering. For our trip, we focused on hiking and camping. We enjoyed the vast majority of hikes we did, and each offers something unique.

Our Top 5 in Arches National Park

1. Fiery Furnace – To limit the impact to the land, a permit is required to access Fiery Furnace. The ultimate adventure in the park, hikers can join a ranger-led tour (spring through fall) or do a self-guided hike. We opted for the latter; and had fun getting lost while exploring the picturesque rock formations. We also enjoyed the solitude the area affords.

   

2. Delicate Arch Trail – Hiking to the iconic Delicate Arch was a priority. It’s worth the hype (and crowds), as it boasts a gorgeous arch and other rock formations, interesting terrain, and even some petroglyphs. The La Sal Mountains provide a striking backdrop.

   

3. Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail – This hike can be as long or short as you want, and can be done as a loop or out-and-back. It provides views of Landscape Arch, the fifth longest arch in the world, as well as many other impressive arches. It’s a crowded hike, but the farther you go the fewer people there are.

   

4. Devils Garden Campground – The only campground within the park is centrally located so it’s easy to get out and explore. Additionally, it has sweeping views and convenient, thoughtful amenities. It’s one of our favorite campgrounds we’ve visited.

   

5. Moab – The town of Moab is located just outside the park, but we’re still giving it a mention. We loved Main Street and the variety of restaurants. Even if you’re not a foodie, there’s something for everyone. The only downside for us is that it can be crowded and touristy, depending on when you visit.

   

Mini Adventures

During our trip to Arches National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Balanced Rock – We stopped to check out this popular feature as we drove to Devils Garden Campground on our way into the park. It’s visible from the main road and easy to access. A short 0.3 mile hike loops around a precariously balanced sandstone rock. We enjoyed the walk and views of the surrounding landscape.

  

• Courthouse Wash Rock Art Panel – This pictograph is located just north of Moab, along US Route 191. A small parking lot on the border of Arches National Park leads to a bike trail. We hiked one mile round-trip to see the panel, along with other petroglyphs, at the base of a nearby cliff. Sadly, the rock art was severely damaged in 1980; it’s faint, but still visible.

  

• Park Avenue – This 2.0 mile round-trip out and back trail is the first hike you’ll reach when entering the park. That said, it was our least favorite. There were simply too many people (especially stepping off-trail), and its features didn’t seem as special to us as other hikes in the park. If you only have time for one hike, we recommend choosing another one. There are decent views of a few rock formations, like Three Gossips and Courthouse Towers.

  

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Backcountry Camping – When we planned our trip, it was our intention to backpack in the park. But the park closed down dispersed camping, and transitioned to designated campsites only, so there weren’t any options for backcountry camping during our visit. Currently, there are backcountry sites located off Devils Garden Primitive Trail and Courthouse Wash.
• Lost Spring Canyon – This north-east section of the park was added in 1998. There are no trails here, and we thought it would be a fun backpacking destination. Dispersed camping had been allowed, but was suspended shortly before our visit. Day hiking in the area is a priority next time we visit.
• Courthouse Wash – This route requires some navigation skills, and isn’t as well-advertised as others in the park. There are two sections of Courthouse Wash. The upper wash runs from the main park road to the western border. The lower wash begins along the east side of the main park road and runs to the southern border. Both have options for backcountry camping, or could be done as a shuttle hike or short out-and-back. It’s one of the few hikes in the park that may have a significant amount of water along the trail.

  

• Autotouring – There are a couple of 4WD roads within the park that interested us, specifically in Willow Flats and Herdina Park. We were curious to see what they had to offer, even though we focus mostly on hiking, camping, and backpacking.
• And many more…

Weather

Arches NP can be very hot, especially during late spring and summer. You’ll want to bring ample water, snacks, sunscreen, and a hat. March through May and September through October are the best times to visit Arches NP. We went in March and highly recommend it. Rain isn’t much of a concern since the area gets so little. As mentioned, the summer gets HOT, so we don’t recommend visiting during this time. If you do visit in summer, get out early, avoid mid-day, and bring lots of water.

Visitation Statistics

May through August is the most popular time to visit the park, assumedly because of summer break. We visited during spring break – there were fewer people, and the weather was milder. If you’re constrained by a school calendar, we recommend going during spring break instead.

Even in spring, the park is still booming with visitors, to the point where there are almost too many people. The chart below shows the influx of visitors by year. It’s been steadily increasing, aside from a drop in 2020 due to COVID-19. During the busiest times of the day (especially during the high season), the park entrance will close temporarily until enough visitors leave the park. Typically the park entrance closes mid-morning, and reopens in the early afternoon.

There have been discussions about alternate solutions. From April 3 to October 3, 2022, the park has implemented a timed entry pilot program. Visitors must reserve a ticket to enter the park between 6 a.m. and 5 p.m. This will require planning ahead, but should lessen congestion in the park. Of course, the best option might be to camp at Devils Garden Campground so you don’t have to worry about reserving a pass or re-entering the park.

Our Itinerary

We started our exploration of the park with hikes near Devils Garden Campground. Our planned itinerary worked well, but there are countless ways to plan your trip.

If you only have time for one hike, we recommend:

• Short Hike: Double Arch
• Medium Hike: Devils Garden Trail to Landscape Arch
• Long Hike: Delicate Arch

Our Experiences

• Devils Garden Campground
• Tower Arch Trail
• Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arch Loop Trail
• Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail
• Windows Loop and Double Arch Trails
• Delicate Arch Trail
• Fiery Furnace
• Moab Accommodations & Restaurants

Interactive Map

Paper Maps

• Arches National Park Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)
• Arches National Park Maps (NPS)

The post Best Hikes, Itinerary and Planning Guide appeared first on KTNPBlog.