Our last hike in Canyonlands National Park would be one to remember. We only had the morning, since we planned to drive to Grand Junction, CO that afternoon. Our trail was a 1.6 mile out and back to False Kiva, an archaeological site tucked away in an alcove. It turned out to be our favorite hike (so far) in the Island in the Sky District.

A kiva is a large, circular, underground room. They were used by the Puebloans, the native people of that region, for religious purposes. The round structure found at the end of this hike is not a true kiva, since there is no underground area. There is some uncertainty surrounding its exact origins and intended purpose. True kivas can be seen at Mesa Verde National Park or Bandelier National Monument.

We hesitated to write a post about False Kiva because it is a Class II archaeological site. The trail does not appear on park maps in order to limit access, since the site is more vulnerable to visitor impacts. Interestingly, it used to be on AllTrails, but was removed in 2021. However, if you ask a Park Ranger, they’ll tell you how to find the trail.

We visited in March 2018 (yes, we are slow at blogging – good thing we took copious notes). Back then, the site was fully explorable. But in August of 2018, the alcove site was vandalized and closed indefinitely. You can still hike the trail, but a chain blocks entry into the alcove itself. The “kiva” is now inaccessible, but you can see it from a distance. The vandalism is very unfortunate, especially given how much we enjoyed the trail and archeological site.

The Trail

It takes some effort to find the trailhead. Asking a park ranger is the easiest and safest way. When we stopped to ask about the trail at Island in the Sky Visitor Center, the ranger brought out a laminated sheet with information on the location and points of interest along the trail.

From the visitor center, we drove west toward Upheaval Dome. Our parking was a small pull-off with just enough space. From there, we crossed the road and headed south. Some juniper logs were lined up along the edge, near a bend in the road. Behind the logs, a well worn trail begins.

We didn’t see anyone else heading onto the trail, but near the start we did meet a group that was coming back from the kiva. So we knew we were on the right track. While the trail isn’t heavily travelled, it was easy for us to follow. Initially, it goes through an area with various shrubs, like blackbrush, and juniper in the distance. Far out, we could see into a canyon called Upper West Basin, and beyond. A prominent rock formation stood ahead of us – I never figured out its name.

The dirt trail beat its way through the desert. Eventually, we started following cairns that guided us through the rocky sections. Along the way, we spotted a few lizards, which we always enjoy seeing. Before long, we reached the edge of the rim and looked out across the canyon. It was a gorgeous view, with Candlestick Tower on our left. The unknown rock formation we had seen earlier was on our right.

The trail started descending down a rocky slope. Based on the photo the park ranger had shown us, we knew we were getting close to the kiva. Looking around, we kept trying to find the alcove in advance. It’s surprisingly well hidden. Once we reached the bottom of the slope, the trail wound its way across a narrow rocky shelf. Eventually, the trail curved sharply to the right, almost doubling back on itself. This brought us closer to the large rock wall that had been to our right since we had descended. We had views out into the canyons the whole way.

False Kiva

Suddenly, after scrambling up a small sandstone incline, we were there! Thankfully, we had the place to ourselves. We had only passed one other group on the way, and it was so peaceful and quiet. We took photos and enjoyed the gorgeous scenery.

The area is known for a famous view of the Kiva in the foreground, and the canyons in the background. Lighting for photography was just okay in the morning; afternoon lighting would probably be better. But we’re glad we got to see it while we could. With the kiva alcove being indefinitely closed to visitors, this view is no longer possible.

Admiring the carefully stacked stones of the kiva, we speculated on its history. It would have been great to learn more about the people who created it and what the site was used for. A small area, which contained some archeological digging, was roped off. A green ammo box held some information, as well as a visitor log. Flipping through it, we saw the breadth of people who had visited from all over the world. We added our names to the list.

Eventually, other hikers arrived, and we deemed it best to let them enjoy the site in peace. So we headed back the way we came. Overall, the trail is moderate, but the ascent up the rocky slope was the most difficult part for us. At the trailhead, we met a third group that was heading for the kiva.

False Kiva is a beautiful and special place, and we’re saddened that we may not be able to visit again. But, even if you can’t get as close to the kiva, it’s still a worthwhile experience. If you visit, please treat it with respect, follow all signs and restrictions, and enjoy this remarkable place.

False Kiva Trail

Date: Friday, March 30, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 715 feet (218 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including spending about 30 minutes at False Kiva
Trail Markings: Wayfinding cairns and an obvious social trail. Even though this is not a maintained trail, it’s easy to follow.
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins, Off the beaten path
Directions to Trailhead: Ask a park ranger
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Links

• False Kiva (Wikipedia)
• Candlestick Tower (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

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A butte is a striking rock formation, defined as an isolated steep hill with often vertical sides and a flat top. It was time for us to hike to one in Canyonlands National Park. Aztec Butte is a 1.6-mile out and back that leads to the top of a butte, with a side trail to see some Puebloan ruins. We were particularly looking forward to the archeological features of the area. The drive to the Aztec Butte trailhead was only about a mile from Mesa Arch Trail, which we had just hiked.

The parking lot was fairly empty, especially compared to Mesa Arch, so we anticipated more solitude. The trail is rocky at the start, before giving way to a sandy path. After a short 0.3 miles, we reached the first intersection. Taking a right would lead us directly to Aztec Butte, but we turned left toward the Puebloan granary ruins on a separate, smaller butte. The trail took us up some slickrock, and gave us a view into Taylor Canyon in the distance. Rock cairns guided us to the granaries, which are sheltered by a rock ledge.

Alongside the ruins are some informative park signs. We learned that Ancestral Puebloans stored pots and baskets containing food, water, and seeds to be protected in the granary. We explored and took some photos. Built between 1200 and 1300 AD, the two granaries we saw seem to be well preserved. On a side note, please remember not to touch or enter them.

After checking out the granaries, we retraced our steps and continued on the main trail. At the base of Aztec Butte, we were greeted by a steep 200 foot ascent. The sandstone is beautiful, with striations in shades of red, white, and brown. It was totally exposed to the sun as we climbed, but it’s a short and enjoyable route with some scenic views.

A vaguely defined trail loops around the top of Aztec Butte. Along the loop are other structures. Some might be authentic, but others may have been constructed more recently – we didn’t see any signs at the top to explain the history, though. For example, a four-walled stone structure sits at the southeast corner of the butte.

There are other ruins scattered around the butte, but some are harder to find than others. We didn’t know it at the time, but there are granaries just below the west ridge of the butte. After exploring more, we headed back the way we came. We pondered why the site is called Aztec Butte, and thought it might be a misnomer, but we haven’t been able find a source explaining its name.

Both Aztec Butte and Mesa Arch are fun hikes with sweeping views, though they are very different. We preferred Aztec Butte Trail since it’s a longer hike with fewer crowds and a rich history. And as a bonus, we kept joking about how “butte-iful” the area is.

Aztec Butte Trail

Date: Thursday, March 29, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 1.6 miles (2.6 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 283 feet (86 m)
Time: 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace including photography
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: A few other groups
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, History, Ruins
Directions to Mesa Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head east on Aztec Butte Trail.
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection, turn left toward the Puebloan Granaries.
• 0.4 mi – Arrive at the granaries. Explore, then head back the way you came.
• 0.6 mi – Back at the intersection, turn left toward Aztec Butte. You’ll ascend about 190 feet to the top.
• 0.8 mi – Arrive at the top of Aztec Butte. Head either way on the vaguely defined loop trail.
• 1.0 mi – Back at the start of the loop. Go back the way you came to descend.
• 1.3 mi – At the intersection with the granaries, go straight back toward the trailhead.
• 1.6 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Aztec Butte | 38.397298, -109.874844

Maps

• Aztec Butte Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Aztec Butte Trail (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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