It was going to be a busy day in Arches National Park. We decided to hike two trails, including Delicate Arch. But we started with the less strenuous Windows Section. The area boasts numerous arches, and a fairly short trail leads to North Window, South Window, and Turret Arch. Double Arch is also nearby – it’s unique in that it has two arches that share a central pillar. We decided to explore them all.

The trails to the Windows and Double Arch are fairly easy. For the Windows, we did a 1.2 mile loop trail, including a primitive trail that goes around the “back.” Even though it’s labeled as more difficult, it’s still relatively easy terrain. The trail to Double Arch is only 0.25 miles one-way, and you can see the arch from the parking lot. If you take the route we did, including the Windows, primitive trail, and Double Arch, it’s about 1.8 miles.

From Moab, our drive was about 40 minutes. After passing Balanced Rock on the main park road, we turned right onto a side road to get to the Windows area, then headed to the nearby parking lot. The Windows Loop Trail is to the east, and Double Arch is to the west.

Turret Arch

We chose to start with Windows Loop Trail, and headed toward Turret Arch, which is about a ten minute walk. It’s made up of one large arch and one smaller arch. Visitors can scramble through Turret Arch, and it’s always nice to get a photo from both angles. The arch is aptly named, because it looks like a castle.

The level, gravel trails are windy and interspersed, so we had to backtrack in order to see everything. And there are many features to see in the Windows area. As always, we made sure to avoid stepping on cryptobiotic soil.

North and South Windows

Our next stop was the North Window, which was a short walk from Turret Arch. On the way, we could see both the North and South Windows. Both “windows” are part of the same sandstone fin. Between the arches is a rock formation known as Nose Bridge. When viewed together, the two windows and bridge are known as “The Spectacles,” as they look like a pair of glasses. We walked underneath the North Window, but couldn’t go any farther as there’s a cliff on the other side. Looking through the arch toward the northeast, we saw the canyons of Salt Wash and beyond.

The nearby South Window was next. This one is high up on a cliffside, so we enjoyed it from below. Compared with the other formations, there were fewer people here. It was breezy , so we didn’t stand around for too long.

Primitive Trail

As we took a break by the South Window, another couple asked if we knew where the primitive trail, which loops back to the parking lot, begins. We weren’t sure, but we began looking since we planned to take it too. Turns out it starts to the right of the South Window. It’s a bit hidden, but is marked by a cairn near the base of the fin.

So, we headed down the primitive trail. While it isn’t the most exciting hike, there are some nice views along the way. One of my favorite parts was seeing both windows simultaneously, and from a different angle. Even though it’s called a “primitive trail,” it’s not hard (this was nothing like our experience at Devils Garden, for example). There’s minimal scrambling, but otherwise it’s a short, easy trail with plenty of wayfinding cairns. And we had more solitude on this section of the hike.

Double Arch

The primitive trail led us back to the parking lot, where we turned right toward Double Arch Trailhead. From there, it took us about ten minutes to get to Double Arch – it’s easy, level, and crowded. To the left is a sandstone formation called Parade of Elephants, and we could see the resemblance. A couple arches are also hidden in the rocks.

Double Arch’s height and span are impressive – it’s the tallest in the park, and the third widest. It was fascinating to learn that the arch started out as a pothole in the sandstone, and formed as water eroded the rock over time. Relaxing under this formation was a special experience. Since there are two arches, it’s almost like being a kid hiding in a fort. We sat on some rocks underneath it, ate a snack, and then climbed further up on some rock outcrops behind it. It was very crowded though, considering its proximity to the parking lot. Low effort, big payoff.

We enjoyed both of these hikes, and Double Arch was my favorite arch we’d seen so far. These trails might be a good bet if you are looking for quick, easy walks and multiple rock formations. The Windows Loop primitive trail even provides some solitude, though there are more interesting trails and features elsewhere in the park. Our next stop: Delicate Arch.

Windows Loop and Double Arch Trails

Date: Tuesday, March 27, 2018
Type: Day hike
Total Distance: 1.8 mi (2.9 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +381 feet (116 m), -431 feet (131 m)
Time: 2 hours, including breaks
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns (on primitive trail)
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: Heavy near Turret and Double Arches, and the Windows. Few on the primitive trail.
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views
Directions to Windows Parking: Google Maps Directions
Notes: There are multiple ways to see the features mentioned above, so feel free to explore

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot, head south to the Windows Trailhead. Look for the trailhead sign.
• 0.1 mi – At the intersection, turn right toward Turret Arch.
• 0.2 mi – The trail passes Turret Arch, and you can stop to scramble and explore it.
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection between the windows, continue straight toward the North Window.
• 0.4 mi – Arrive at North Window. Check it out, then turn around and go back the same way.
• 0.5 mi – Back at the intersection between the two Windows. Turn left toward South Window and arrive there shortly. At the base of the South Window, follow the trail to the right toward the primitive trail. Cairns will help guide you.
• 1.2 mi – Primitive trail ends at the parking lot. Turn right and follow the road to Double Arch Trailhead.
• 1.3 mi – At the Double Arch Trailhead. You can see the arch from the trailhead.
• 1.5 mi – Arrive at Double Arch. Enjoy it, then head back the same way.
• 1.8 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Turret Arch | 38.684249, -109.534913
• North Arch | 38.685686, -109.532856
• South Arch | 38.684996, -109.532504
• Double Arch | 38.691531, -109.540308
• Parade of Elephants | 38.690017, -109.541318

Maps

• Windows and Double Arch Trails (KTNP)

Links

• Explore the Windows (NPS)
• Stroll to Double Arch (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Windows Loop and Double Arch Trails appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Type: 3-day Backpacking Loop
Distance: 20.4 miles (32.8 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 6,083 feet (1854 m)
Net Elevation Gain/Loss: 4,076 feet (1242 m)
Date visited: April 17, 2017 – April 19, 2017
Manning Camp via Miller Creek Trail Map (KTNP)

[Last updated: April 2024]

On our second to last day in Saguaro National Park, we went to a “Star Party” at Rincon Visitor Center.  We like astronomy, planets, and stars, so we made sure to go.  Before going outside to stargaze, the ranger at the visitor center gave us a rundown on the history of the park.  He explained how the park was created by President Herbert Hoover as a National Monument.  The ranger then said, “The park has a lot of diversity, not just the desert environment, but also the Rincon Mountains at 8,000 feet.  Up there is Manning Camp, but nobody really goes there.”  We sat there feeling slightly miffed, but also smug, because we had been at Manning Camp just two days before.

While researching Saguaro, one spot stood out more than anything else: Manning Camp.  This campground sits among conifer forest at 8,000 feet of elevation, in the Rincon Mountain (east) District close to the highest point in the park.  There’s a cabin at the campground that was built in 1905 by Levi Manning, a mayor of Tucson.  It was used until 1907 when the area was added to Coronado National Forest.  When the national park was established, the cabin and surrounding areas were restored and used as a campground, corral, and research station.  Visitors can’t stay in the cabin, but there are six campsites.  Doesn’t that sound like a great destination for an adventure?  If you’re interested in more information, the NPS has an article about the history at Manning Camp.

Planning

8,000 feet is about as high as you can get from the Sonoran Desert, which has an elevation of around 3,000 feet.  The only way to get to Manning Camp is a backpacking trip, so our plan was set.  Mostly.  There are six different trailheads to get into the backcountry, and by extension, Manning Camp.  The backcountry guide on Saguaro National Park’s website gives a decent rundown on the options.  There are five designated backcountry campgrounds (dispersed camping is not allowed).  Manning Camp which has six campsites; the rest have three.

Given the six trailheads to the backcountry, it was a difficult choice.  These were our options:

• Douglas Spring: Easily accessible on the west side of the Rincon district.  Decently close to Manning Camp.  But, there are frequent break-ins when cars are left overnight.
• Tanque Verde: Located on the western side of the Rincon district, inside the park, secure parking.  Long distance to Manning Camp, but trail goes through 6 different biomes as you climb from 3,100 to 8,000 feet.
• Italian Spring: On the north side of the Rincon district, in Coronado National Forest.  4WD vehicle access only.
• Loma Alta: On the southern side of the Rincon district.  There’s no public access to this trailhead. (Update: As of 2020, this now seems to be publicly accessible)
• Miller Creek & Turkey Creek: East side of Rincon District, in Coronado National Forest.  You start from higher up (4,200 or 4,250 feet respectively), so not as long to get to Manning Camp.  But the trails are steeper, and you have to go through backcountry gravel roads to get there.  Turkey Creek follows a 4WD road for a mile or so, so you can get in further if you have the right vehicle.

Looking at the list of trailheads, we quickly eliminated Italian Spring from our options since we wouldn’t have a 4 wheel drive vehicle.  Likewise, we eliminated Loma Alta since there was no easy way to access it.  My initial thought was Douglas Spring, since I had found a route from Backpacker Magazine for that trailhead.  But K nixed that idea, because of frequent break-ins that occur there.

That left us with Tanque Verde.  It is secure, safe, and had campgrounds spaced a good distance apart (you can only camp in designated campgrounds, no dispersed camping).  We could do a 3-night out-and-back trip to Manning Camp, staying the first night at Juniper Basin, second at Manning Camp, and back to Juniper Basin for the third night.  But when we started planning out our full itinerary for the trip, we realized that we wanted a day to explore the Cactus forest in the northwest corner of the Rincon District.

Could we do anything about it?  Looking at our map led us to Miller Creek Trailhead which was located on the east side of the Rincons, in Coronado National Forest.  We could form a loop with that and Turkey Creek trailhead to manage a two night backpacking trip, giving us that extra day.  It would be a bit more strenuous with steeper trails, and the last day would have a decent chunk of mileage.  One first night would be at Happy Valley Campground, with our second at Manning Camp.  Problem solved.

• Day 0 – Drive to Benson, stay in the night.  Benson is the closest town to the trailhead.
  • Overnight:  Comfort Inn, Benzon, AZ
• Day 1 – Hike to Happy Valley Campground. If time allows, hike up 7.2 mile round-trip to Rincon peak from there.
  • Overnight: Happy Valley Campground
  • Distance and Elevation Gain: 4.1 miles, +2239 feet, – 327 feet
• Day 2 – Hike from Happy Valley Campground to Manning Camp. If time allows, hike the 5.0 mile Fire Loop Trail hike.
  • Overnight: Manning Camp
  • Distance and Elevation Gain: 6.4 miles, +2764 feet, – 939 feet
• Day 3 – Miller Creek Trailhead via Turkey Creek trail, forming a loop.
  • Distance and Elevation Gain: 9.9 miles, +1080 feet, -4817 feet

A backcountry permit is required for any overnight stays and it’s $8 per campsite, per night.  Campsite permits are released on a 6-month rolling basis.  When we did this trip in 2017, you had to request the permit via mail.  But as of 2020, the permit can now only be obtained from recreation.gov.  We weren’t too worried about not getting a permit, but you never know if a site will fill up.  Additionally, we didn’t know what rental car we’d have, so we left that information blank on the permit, and called the visitor center once we arrived in Tucson.

This is the desert, so water sources are hard to come by.  Only some of the campgrounds in the park have springs, and only one of the campgrounds has a guaranteed year-round water source.  Thankfully, that year round water source is at Manning Camp, which was the reason the cabin was built there so many years ago.  Happy Valley, where we’d stay the first night, did not have a spring – only ephemeral water from snow melt.  So water was not guaranteed from our starting point at Miller Creek until we get to Manning Camp.  As a result, we each packed 5 liters of water (a 3-liter bladder, and two 1-liter water bottles).  This would prove to be enough, as long as we were judicious with our water supply.

Day 0 – Benson, Arizona

We wanted to get an early start, especially with much of the trail being exposed to the sun.  There was also Rincon Peak, a 6 mile round-trip hike from Happy Valley Campground that we wanted to do after we got to the campground.  The day before our trip, we were going to be in the Tucson Mountain (west) District, so we decided to drive that evening into a small town called Benson, the closest one to Miller Creek trailhead.  According to Google, it would only be a 45-minute drive to the trailhead from the Comfort Inn in Benson.

So after hiking Ringtail Trail, we set out and drove 75 minutes to Benson, Arizona.  The drive was easy, and as we drove we gazed at the mountains in the distance and wondering if those were the Rincon Mountains that we’d be in the next day.  When we arrived at the hotel, we were ravenous.  Hotel staff recommended a restaurant called Pablo’s Steaks.  Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed…it was Easter Sunday.  Somehow we had forgotten that.  As we drove through town, we figured that dinner was going to be McDonald’s, until we spotted one lone place open: Farm House Restaurant.  We took our chances…

… and the restaurant was actually quite good, though we came in with low expectations.  Super casual atmosphere, quirky country decor, friendly staff, and solid American/country-style food.  K got a pulled pork sandwich with barley vegetable soup.  The sandwich was sweet, with lots of BBQ sauce (which K loves), while the soup was basic but homey.  I got an Avocado Bacon Burger, which I enjoyed, though it had no avocado (and was too tired to ask for some).  K kept stealing my fries, which were simple, but good.  While we ate, we listened to older country music which K is a fan of.  We closed down the restaurant, and barely made it out before they shut down for the night.  A filling meal before our hike, and certainly better than McDonald’s.

Day 1 – Drive to Miller Creek

And so our adventure began.  We ate a quick breakfast, checked out of the Comfort Inn, and started the drive to our trailhead on North Mescal Road.  Before we knew it, we were onto Forest Road 35 (Happy Valley Road), a dirt road going through the Coronado National Forest.  With gorgeous views of the Rincons in front of us!  We stopped a couple times just to take pictures, and admire our surroundings.

The road wasn’t in bad condition, it was nicely graveled and decently level.  Our rental car was a Nissan Rogue – no 4 wheel drive, but it had a higher clearance.  It handled the road without issue.  We continued on, winding up and down the mountains, the views from the road continuing to impress.  There were no saguaros in sight; this was more of a desert grassland environment.  We also passed a few ranches and small houses on the way.  Everything was going great, beautiful day, making good time.  And, of course, that’s when we ran into a large muddy stream running across the dirt road…the adventure had started well before we got to the trailhead.

None of our research had indicated a stream across the road, so it was certainly a surprise.  We stopped the car, got out, and walked to the water’s edge.  We grabbed a rock, threw it in, and it made a big splash.  That wasn’t very helpful for figuring out how deep it was.  I grabbed my trekking pole, and stuck that in.  It was about 10 inches deep, but this was only on the edge.  Could we make it across?  We’d never driven across something like that.  But we weren’t going to give up.

Hearing voices past the water, we set out to investigate.  We walked on the side of the road, and jumped across a narrow part of the stream.  We were across!  But without our car or gear, and miles still away from the trailhead.  Following the voices, we walked along the road for a few minutes until we saw a couple camped on the side of the road.  After chatting with them, we learned they’d crossed with a small, lower-clearance sedan.  They also told us a spring was the culprit, and that the left side of the stream was shallower.

Newly emboldened, we went back to the car, and I got in.  K was still a bit apprehensive that we’d flood the engine or something, so she waited outside.  I started the car, and eased slowly across the stream, making sure to stay on the left side.  We made it!  As we drove past the other couple camping, we made sure to thank them.  On the drive back after backpacking, the water remained, but had decreased in volume.

Further up the road there were puddles, but nothing as big as the stream we had crossed.  We passed many washes, and that was typically where we saw water.  At certain times of the year, when the wash was running, this road would be impassable without a high-clearance vehicle.  As we drove on, we started seeing a few potholes, which we did our best to avoid.  Happy Valley Road also became sandier and bumpier as we passed ranches and pastures, and continued to enjoy mountain views.  And before we knew it, we arrived at Miller Creek.

Day 1 – Miller Creek to Happy Valley

Arriving at the trailhead, we were the only ones there.  We did our best to park in some shade, loaded on our packs, and set off for Happy Valley Campground.  If we had time, we planned to do an additional hike up to Rincon Peak.  In each of our packs was 5 liters of water: a 3-liter hydration bladder and two 1-liter water bottles.  This had to last until we got to Manning Camp, since that was our only guaranteed water source.  Every other campground, except for Happy Valley and Juniper Basin, has a seasonal spring.  Happy Valley only has water from ephemeral streams due to snow melt, but we weren’t counting on that.

We were still on Coronado National Forest land – it would be 1.3 miles until we reached the Saguaro National Park boundary.  Until that point, we would hike through grazing areas and meet lots of friendly cows.  And watching our step because of those friendly cows.  As we started the hike, there was a cow right on the trail.  As we approached, she mooed, got up, and walked away.  Amused, we passed by.  The trail was sandy, with shiny mica bits.  It makes sense, as Mica Mountain, the tallest point in the park, is at the top of the Rincon Mountains.  We kept our heads down as we walked to see the mica, and avoid the cow pies.

The trail was pretty easy going at this point, with a few trees which offered a nice respite from the shade.  Before long we started seeing pools of water, and finally a small creek (the titular Miller Creek).  This is what made the area a bit greener than we expected.  But we continued to slowly ascend, and we started returning to the desert grassland.  Ahead, we could see our path through the beautiful Rincon mountains.

The trail became more open and rocky as we approached our first checkpoint: the national park boundary.  We entered the park through a gate, which keeps cows out, and took a quick celebratory break.  It was great to get our packs off our shoulders, even for a few minutes.  We looked around, and noticed an interesting tree on either side of the trail.  The bark was deep purplish brown that twirled together with a grey bark, almost resembling a candy cane.  I researched it after our trip, and found that it was a Manzanita tree, which means little apple in Spanish.  Looking back at the photos, this made sense because of its small round fruit.

After a brief rest, we shouldered our packs and headed on.  This part of the trail was the strenuous incline we were expecting.  It was around 1,900 feet overall elevation gain over only 2.8 miles to get to Happy Valley Campground.  Additionally, the trail was rocky, sandy, eroded, and required a bit of scrambling here and there.  Naturally, it was a ton of fun!  And also grueling and exhausting.  Markings on the trail are not a strength – it’s not blazed.  Occasionally we’d lose track of the trail.  If this happened, we learned that we could follow the sand and use our intuition to pick it back up.  Occasional small cairns helped guide us, but these were few and far between.  Rocks and branches were placed across areas that marked where hikers should NOT go.

The views as we ascended were spectacular, and they were enhanced by the huge boulders and rocky terrain.  Some sections with large boulders reminded me a bit of Joshua Tree National Park.  Occasionally, we looked out at the view and tried to pick out our path in the valley below.  I kept a lookout for wildlife, but we only saw lizards and birds.  Mountain lions are rare in the area, and sadly, we didn’t see any.

Our trip up was so sunny and hot that we stopped for breaks whenever we had a bit of shade.  Our only complaint with the shade was having to share it with small, annoying bugs.  But shade is at a premium, so you don’t really have a choice!  The trail wasn’t quite what we expected.  A variety of boulders made for gorgeous scenery and interesting terrain.  We both had trekking poles, which we recommend, as there was loose rock and sand on top of boulders, which made for sometimes unsure footing.

We tried to ration our water, but also made sure we were hydrated.  We hadn’t seen any water since we passed Miller Creek at the start of the trail.  We planned to hike to Rincon Peak after arriving at Happy Valley Campground, and wanted to ensure we had enough water for the trip.  As we ascended, the desert grassland gave way to oak woodland.   The trail became more forested, we kept assuming we were almost there.  But we weren’t – it was taking far longer than expected.  The long car ride, along with the heat and incline, made our side trip to Rincon Peak unlikely.  We kept trudging along.

Day 1 – Happy Valley Campground

When we saw a sign marking an intersection with Heartbreak Ridge Trail, we were overjoyed.  We were almost there!  We turned left at the intersection, and it was a short 0.2 miles to the campground, which appeared on our left.  At this point, we had also started seeing pine trees, which made sense, since we were at an elevation of around 6,200 feet!  Pine cones littered the forest floor, and yellow wildflowers added pops of color.

Pine trees towered over us as we made our way into the campground.  It was very majestic and peaceful, located in a tree grove.  We had seen no one on the trail, though we figured we would in the campground.  But we had it all to ourselves.  K went to find the pit toilet while I explored the campsites.  After wandering around, K pointed out what seemed to be a critical flaw in the bathroom – it was only three-sided, without a roof.  We were both amused and confused.  Would it have been that costly to put up a fourth wall with a door?

Arriving late in the campground meant we had to forgo climbing Rincon Peak.  Add it to the list for next time.  We wanted to go, but realized we didn’t have enough water or time.  If you want to hike Rincon Peak, we recommend you stay a second night at Happy Valley, and do Rincon Peak as a dayhike.  You would need an additional day’s supply of water, though.  The peak would be visible on our hike tomorrow, taunting us that we didn’t get to climb it.

Happy Valley has three campsites.  We chose campsite #1, pitched our tent, and took some time to relax and make dinner.  We didn’t look around for water, assuming there was none since we had read nothing about a spring here, only ephemeral streams from snow.  There had been snow 2-3 weeks ago, but now, there was nothing.

Since we had the place to ourselves, we were able to explore the other campsites.  We found campsite #3 to be the best, as it was the furthest removed from the trail, had log chairs, a leftover portable table, bear box, and fire ring.  We would have stayed there had we found it sooner.  Campsite #2 seemed to be the least desirable, mainly because it didn’t seem to have a bear box.  Our site, #1, had a fire ring, bear box, and log seats, but if anyone came to the campground they’d go through our site (of course, no one did).

It was getting cool, quite different than our time in the desert scrub portion of the park, which was at 3,000′ feet of elevation.  We were glad to have our jackets!  This had been a hard day, the hike was difficult with the weight of our packs, heat, and the elevation gain of the trail (around 2200′ over 4.1 miles).  Exhausted, we went to sleep so we could get an early start for the long day tomorrow.

Day 2 – Happy Valley to Manning Camp

We woke up refreshed at Happy Valley Campground in Saguaro National Park.  And a little cold.  But happy.  Something about it all just makes your body and soul feel good.  You get to relax, enjoy the views, nature, and get away from crowds and work.  We were at 6,000 feet of elevation.  The sun slowly peeked in, but the pine trees were blocking our precious sunshine.  Finding what sunshine we could, we sat there eating our oatmeal.  Slightly sad, we packed up and said goodbye to our campground.  We wanted to get to Manning Camp at a decent time so we could do additional hikes around it.  So we wasted no time, leaving at 8:30am (this is early for us).  We hoped it would turn out better than our attempt to climb Rincon Peak.  It would be 6.4 miles and 2,764 feet of elevation gain to Manning Camp.

Walking out of the campground, we turned right to go back to the intersection of Heartbreak Ridge trail with Miller Creek Trail.  This time, we would head straight on Heartbreak Ridge.  The trail started out in Happy Valley Saddle, which is the region between Rincon Peak and Mica Mountain.  We’d have a similar elevation gain to the previous day, but it was more gradual this time with ups and downs, so we hoped it would be slightly easier.  As we moved into the saddle, the pine trees vanished, and we were back in a desert grassland.

Flowering manzanita lined the sides of the trail as we ascended.  Why is the trail called Heartbreak Ridge?  Seems ominous.  I’m assuming it’s because when you think you’re almost there, you realize you have more to go.  Happy Valley Lookout was the first intersection we encountered.  I wanted to check out the lookout on the side trail, but we decided to keep going in the interest of time.  We could see Rincon Peak the whole way up to Manning Camp too.  And it taunted us every step of the way since we didn’t get there the previous day.

Like day 1, we relied on periodic shade that allowed us take breaks, and grab water or a snack to recharge.  Sunglasses are essential on this trail, which is mostly exposed to the sun.  The trail was not well-maintained; there were multiple downed trees, bushes on the trail, and eroded slopes.  Sometimes the trail was marked with reddish metal flags embedded in trees.  Who knows how long they’ve been there, but they were still helpful.  Again, the trail is speckled with bits of mica that reflect sunlight.

Our weary bodies kept going, and we passed Deerhead Spring Trail on the right.  For now, we continued on Heartbreak Ridge Trail.  The Deerhead Spring Trail sign said it would be only 0.5 miles until we got to Four Corners.  Four Corners wasn’t on any map we had, but based on the mileage and looking at the map, we assumed it was the intersection of Heartbreak Ridge and Devil’s Bathtub trails.

We soon reached the intersection with Devil’s Bathtub Trail, and turned left.  And gloriously the trail was more level than Heartbreak Ridge, which was a relief.  A little bit into the trail, we reached a sign that pointed us to Devil’s Bathtub, located at 7,500 feet of elevation.  And we saw our first sign of water in a day and a half.  A small trickle of water flowed across rocks, until it came to the edge of a rock cliff where it dripped down and down and down, until it hit a large pool of water.  You can’t miss it, but there’s a wooden sign just in case.

There was no easy way to reach the large pool of water, hence the name.  And we couldn’t get anything from the small trickle on top either, not easily at least.  So we enjoyed the view, walked around, took photos, and were just glad to see water.  At this point we were also very much in a pine forest, similar to Happy Valley, which was nice since we weren’t as exposed to the sun.  We didn’t expect the environment to change so rapidly.

Soon Devil’s Bathtub trail dumped us out on Manning Camp trail, which is part of the Arizona Trail, an 800-mile National Scenic Trail from Mexico to Utah across the state of Arizona.  We’d only be on the trail for 1 mile until we reached the campground, but the Arizona Trail bisects the entire Rincon District.  With renewed spirits (and some energy chews), we headed north.

Along the way, I saw a lizard scamper near the trail.  Now, we had seen plenty of lizards on the trip, but this one looked different.  It had horns.  Initially I thought it was a Regal Horned Lizard (Phrynosoma solare), but research after our trip told us it was a greater short-horned lizard (Phrynosoma hernandesi).  It was small, only about five inches in length, but was very interesting to look at with all the horns, knobs, and scales.  We waved goodbye, and were soon greeted with the sounds of a stream.  Shortly, we saw the small creek gurgling below to the left of the trail.  We could have filtered water from the stream, but we were close to Manning Camp at this point.  And a few hundred feet later, the small stream crossed the trail for easier access if we needed it.  We jumped over it and headed up.

Day 2 – Manning Camp

And soon we saw it, on our right – campsites.  We’d made it!  If we had kept going on the trail, we would have run right into the cabin, but instead, we walked through the campground looking at the sites.  But mainly looking for the water source since we were about out of water.  We found it, and it was breathtaking.  Pictures don’t do it justice.  The small but beautiful waterfall cascaded into a large clear pool where we could get all the cold drinking water we needed (after filtering of course).  We refilled our bottles and hydration bladders and relaxed for a few minutes.

After filtering water, we went and picked a campsite that we thought looked private.  Each campsite had a fire ring and bear box.  Then we set about exploring the campground.  We found the bathrooms, which thankfully had a doors and roofs (comparatively with Happy Valley Campground).  The cabin had an open-air section, where we saw lots of gear for the National Park staff that visits the cabin.  Next to the cabin is a large corral, fire pit, and picnic tables.

There are 6 campsites and 2 bathrooms at the campground.  There are also a few special tents scattered around for NPS employees near Manning Cabin.  We chose site 2, as we felt it offered privacy and had some logs for seating.  You can’t go wrong with any of the sites though; they all looked private, large, and appeared to have some seating.  Apparently there is also a helipad to the west of the camp.

One thing we didn’t see?  People.  Once again, we were the only ones in the campground.  We saw a large red tent near the cabin, but not in a campsite, but we never saw anyone use it.  We were alone.  Not that we minded, but it would have been nice to see other people at some point.  After our trip, we asked at a visitor center, and were told an NPS intern should have been staying up there in the cabin.  A registry book at Manning Camp told us someone camped there the previous night. Another visitor had written that there was snow a few weeks prior to our visit!

Day 2 – Spud Rock

Our initial plan after arriving at Manning Camp was to hike the intersecting trails north of the campground that led to the highest points in Saguaro National Park.  Namely, Spud Rock (8613 feet), Mica Mountain (8666 feet), and Reef Rock (8103 feet).  We wanted to do a 4.9 mile trail called Fire Loop Trail, that would go past all of them.  Even with us pushing ourselves to get to Manning Camp, we still didn’t have quite enough time before it started to get dark.  But we did have enough time to hike to Spud Rock.

Mica Mountain may be slightly taller, but I had read that Spud Rock has better views.  Kristin and I grabbed some energy chews and water, then walked through camp past the cabin.  We turned onto Cowhead Saddle Trail, which turned right onto Fire Loop Trail in 0.6 miles.  We went around the loop clockwise, and the hike wasn’t too bad – it would only be 2.5 miles roundtrip.  Not being very good at judging distance, we kept suggesting that every big rock that we saw was Spud Rock.  In reality, we didn’t see Spud Rock coming.

At about 1.4 miles into the hike, we came upon a simple sign that marked Spud Rock, with an enormous rock outcropping behind it.  Did it look like a potato?  Not to us, at least from that vantage point.  According to the book “Arizona Place Names” by Will C. Barnes: “Two Southern Pacific railroad engineers, William H. Barnett and Jim Miller, had a shack here and raised potatoes and cabbage on a little flat close to the rock.  They called it Spud Rock for their major crop – spuds.”  There was no official trail that went to the top, but there was clearly a social trail.  So we followed it.  It doesn’t take that long, just 5 or so minutes to climb.  Near the top we climbed up a decently sloped rock slab, but it wasn’t too bad.

At the top was a flat-ish area, where we were greeted by immense gusts of wind.  Not surprising considering how high we were.  We were also wowed by spectacular views that took our breath away, despite it being hazy. We snapped a few quick photos while trying not to get blown away.  Also at the top is a logbook in an ammo box, surrounded by rocks to protect it from the wind.  We had to duck to sign the logbook, and then climbed back down.

The hike back to Manning Camp didn’t take long, and we were back before we knew it.  We settled in, made some dinner, and were exhausted so went to sleep shortly after.  It had also gotten pretty cold out.  We were happy to have our jackets and long hiking pants.  I don’t know the exact temperature, but it was probably in the low 40s (°F).  There was a fire ring, but we didn’t feel like going through the hassle of making a fire, when we could just crawl into the tent and get warm instead.  Sleep came easily.

Day 3 – Manning Camp to Turkey Creek Trail

It was still cold when we got up around 7 a.m.  The average low at Manning Camp in April was 37°F!  It started warming up slowly, as the sun rose in the sky.  With a long day ahead, we made some oatmeal for breakfast and started packing up.  You can never have too much water, so we went back to the water source to fill up.

As we were filtering, we hear a noise beyond the water, and were startled to see, of all things, a turkey.  The large adult male turkey was covered with feathers and weird wrinkly appendages.  Not what we expected!  But then we remembered the name of the trail we would be on later that day – Turkey Creek.  Of course.  Was it a good sign for the day?  The turkey flew across the small creek downstream from the waterfall, coming closer to us.  That’s when we noticed that the turkey wasn’t alone.  There were about 10 female turkeys all throughout the campground.  The turkeys wandered around in the campground for a good 20 minutes, while we filtered water and packed up.

After saying goodbye to our turkey friends, we walked past Manning Cabin toward Fire Loop Trail.  On the way out, we also saw the “pond” that feeds the campground’s water source.  There’s a fence, so you can’t access it from the top, but you can see it running through the rock into the pool below.  After checking it out, we left Manning Camp and went east along Fire Loop Trail.  It was going to be a long day with 9.9 miles and 4,817 feet elevation loss.

Initially, the trail was a bit elusive due to downed trees and poor signage.  There were pine needles littering the ground, so we had to be cautious to avoid slipping.  We crossed several small trickles and pools of water.  Probably not enough to get drinking water without a pump.  Initially, the trail ascends slightly before starting our big descent.  Fire Loop Trail runs into our old friend, Heartbreak Ridge Trail.  This time we were only on it for 0.9 miles before going on a few smaller trails like Switchback and East Slope Trails.

At the terminus of East Slope Trail is Spud Rock campground.  We were close enough, so we decide to go check it out.  Really, we wanted to find out if the bathroom there is also three-sided like Happy Valley Campground.  It was a bit tough locating the campsites themselves, but when we did, they reminded us of Happy Valley Campground with pine trees towering above.  And like Happy Valley, the bathroom was indeed 3-sided.  And leaning!  Lovely view down a hill though, if that matters to you.  There’s supposed to be a spring somewhere in the campground, but we didn’t have time to look for it.

Day 3 – Turkey Creek Trail

Leaving Spud Rock Campground, we continued on Deerhead Spring Trail which connected with Turkey Creek Trail.  Deerhead Spring itself is located along Turkey Creek Trail.  It didn’t look like a ton of water, but you might be able to search to find some.  This part of the trail descended steeply, with very slippery, eroded and overgrown trails.  It could benefit from some maintenance, but since not many backpackers visit, they probably don’t have the budget or incentive.  In 2017 there were only 2,339 backcountry campers in Saguaro NP; 50% of those visited in March or April.

We crossed between sunny and wooded areas as we looked for markers and small cairns to guide us.  We stopped for a lunch break along the trail, and realized we were running a bit low on food.  It was also here that I somehow smudged my camera lens and didn’t notice until we got back from the trip that all my pictures also had a smudge from this point on.  Whoops.  If you see it in future pictures, that’s why.  Continuing on, we had great views along the trail that we enjoyed.  The trail was dusty, gritty and slippery, and we were beyond tired.  But we still were having a blast.  We tried to hike quickly to make good time.

After 3.1 miles on Turkey Creek Trail, we reached the boundary with Saguaro National Park and Coronado National Forest.  Our surroundings started to change too, and we found ourselves hiking through a picturesque grassland.  Once again, not what we expected.  We hiked through it as the winds rustled the grasses, and we felt as though we had been magically transported somewhere else.

Soon, we spotted the end of Turkey Creek Trail.  Well, in a way.  The trail ends and Turkey Creek Springs Road (Forest Road #4408), a 4 wheel drive road (4WD), takes over.  On most maps, the road isn’t considered part of Turkey Creek Trail, though there is a trailhead sign near the end of the road that includes the road as part of the trail.  Either way, it was about 1.8 miles on Turkey Creek Spring Road to Happy Valley Road.  Not expecting much from a dirt road, we were surprised when it had great views.  It definitely is a 4WD road…I wouldn’t take our 2WD Nissan Rogue on it.  We munched on some Clif Bar energy chews as we hiked, the last of our food.  We had more food in the car, so we just had to get there.

The 4WD road ended in a circular area with a grove of trees.  It looked like there were a few primitive campsites that people had used around the area.  It was tricky to figure out which way to go, so we wandered around until we came upon a metal gate.  We knew we were headed the right way when we saw a sign pointing to the Turkey Creek Trailhead.  Before we knew it, we were on Happy Valley Road (Forest Road #35).  A 10-minute walk along the road led us back to Miller Creek Trailhead, where we started.  We were overjoyed to see our car, and grab a well-deserved snack.  Our car was no longer lonely either, someone else had parked next to us.  And yet we never saw another person during the trip.

So exhausted.  Our minds and bodies were shot at this point with the heat and distance.  All we wanted to do was sleep.  And eat.  It was confusing.  As we drove back to Tucson we snacked on Sun Chips and jerky.  The drive back was uneventful.  The water we had passed through on the way there had subsided, so it was easier to cross.  Once in Tucson, we stopped at El Guero Canelo and got our first Sonoran Hotdogs.  Then we went to our hotel, the Comfort Suites at Sabino Canyon, showered, and passed out.

Final Thoughts

We loved this backpacking trip.  It was the highlight of our visit to Saguaro National Park.  But the last day was exhausting, and we would have changed a few things in hindsight.  We plan to do it again someday, and when we do, we’d make it a 5-day trip, adding days to hike the trails we missed.  We’d do it like this:

Day 1 – Miller Creek to Happy Valley, camp at Happy Valley Campground
Day 2 – Hike Rincon Peak, camp at Happy Valley Campground again
Day 3 – Happy Valley to Manning Camp, camp at Manning Camp
Day 4 – Hike trails around Manning Camp, see Spud Rock, Mica Mountain, and Reef Rock.  Camp at Manning Camp.
Day 5 – Manning Camp to Turkey Creek

That’s our preferred route, if you can figure out how to get additional water at Happy Valley.  If not, I would do a 4-day trip, cut the side trail to Rincon Peak, and stay two nights at Manning Camp.  If you don’t have four or five days, we can happily say our three day trip was well worth it.  Saguaro National Park surprised us, time and time again, and this backpacking trip was no exception.  We’ll be back.

Manning Camp via Miller Creek Trail

Date Visited: We did this backpacking trip from April 17, 2017 to April 19, 2017
Type: Two Night Backpacking Loop
Total Distance: 20.4 miles (32.8 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 6083 feet (1854 m)
Net Elevation Gain/Loss: 4,076 feet (1242 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 4.1 miles (6.6 km)
  • Cumulative Elevation Gain and Loss: 2239 feet (682 m) Gain, 327 feet (100 m) Loss
  • Time: 5 hours, including lunch and rest breaks
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 6.4 miles (10.3 km)
  • Cumulative Elevation Gain and Loss: 2764 feet (843 m) Gain, 939 feet (286 m) Loss
  • Time: 6.5 hours, including lunch and rest breaks
• Day 3:
  • Distance: 9.9 miles (15.9 km)
  • Cumulative Elevation Gain and Loss: 1080 feet (329 m) Gain, 4817 feet (1468 m) Loss
  • Time: 8 hours, including lunch and rest breaks

Trail Markings: There are infrequent cairns and red metal markers usually pounded into trees.  Signs at intersections.  Trail is not well defined in some areas.  Sticks are placed in areas to mark the “wrong way.”  We usually found that following the sand led us the right way.
Difficulty: Difficult due to elevation gain, long days, and rough trail in some areas
Crowds: None.  We saw absolutely no one on this 3-day backpacking trip.
Water: A small stream near the start of Miller Creek Trail, and then a stream that is coming down from the Manning Camp water source.
Highlights: Views, History, Camping, Water Features, Wildlife, Different Biomes, Wildflowers, Solitude, Scrambling
Directions to Miller Creek Parking: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• 0.0 mi – From the parking area at Miller Creek, you’ll see a fence to your west.  Go through it, making sure to close it on your way.  This is the Miller Creek Trail, through Coronado National Forest.  You’ll pass cows, and go up a slight incline.  You might see some small pools and streams of water.  I’d stay away from it with all the cows around though.
• 1.3 mi – You’ll see a sign and fence indicating you’re entering Saguaro National Park.  Again, make sure to close the fence, and continue on the Miller Creek Trail.  This next section is more steep and eroded.
• 3.9 mi – You’ve reached the intersection with Heartbreak Ridge Trail!  You’re almost there.  Turn left onto the trail, and you’ll be rewarded with small downhill section.  As you’ve noticed, there are a lot of trees in this area, compared to the earlier parts of Miller Creek Trail.
• 4.1 mi – Keep an eye out on the left for a Happy Valley Campground sign.  Stay the night here (make sure you have a reservation).  Site 3 is the best, imo.  The next day, go back the way you came.
• 4.3 mi – You’re back to the intersection with Heartbreak Ridge and Miller Creek Trails.  This time, continue straight.  This section becomes more exposed to the sun again, leaving behind the big trees.  You’ll also start to climb steeply in elevation.
• 6.1 mi – To your right is a short trail to Happy Valley Lookout.  We didn’t go up there because of time constraints, but my understanding is that there is an old fire tower there (or was).  Go check it out if you wish, it’s only 0.4 mi round-trip.  If not, continue straight on Heartbreak Ridge Trail.  The trail starts to go up and down and level out a bit occasionally.
• 7.8 mi – Pass Deerhead Spring Trail on the right, and continue straight on Heartbreak Ridge Trail.
• 8.3 mi – You’ve reached “Four Corners,” where the Heartbreak Ridge, East Slope, and Devil’s Bathtub Trails converge.  Head left on Devil’s Bathtub Trail.
• 8.9 mi – Finally!  Your first water since yesterday.  On the left is the Devil’s Bathtub.  I’d only recommend getting water if you’re desperate, you’re almost to a better source at Manning Camp.
• 9.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection, onto Manning Camp Trail.
• 10.5 mi – You’ll see Manning Camp on your right, you’ll pretty much run right into it.  Stay the night here, and enjoy it.  If you have time, explore the trails around Manning Camp.  Even better, stay another night to hike the trails the following day.  Whenever you leave Manning Camp, head east on Fire Loop Trail.  There’s a bit more of an uphill climb, until you begin the long descent.
• 10.7 mi – An intersection with Mica Mountain Trail.  Continue straight on Fire Loop Trail.  On this section, keep on eye out on the left for Duckbill mountain top.  We neglected to look for it when we did the trail.
• 11.1 mi – Head right at the fork, going onto the Heartbreak Ridge Trail.  The trail starts descending here.
• 12.0 mi – At the intersection, go left onto Switchback Trail instead of continuing on Heartbreak Ridge Trail.
• 12.4 mi – Turn left onto East Slope Trail.
• 12.5 mi – At this intersection with East Slope and Deerhead Spring Trails, there’s also a short trail to Spud Rock Campground.  Check it out, or continue onto Deerhead Spring Trail.
• 12.9 mi – You’ve reached Turkey Creek Trail.   You’ll more or less be on this for the rest of the trip.   This is also where the bulk of your descent is.  Be careful because the trail is eroded and steep.  Follow cairns as needed.  You’ll come out of the trees too into more open areas.
• 15.2 mi – You’ll see a fence, meaning you’ve come to the end of the Saguaro National Park Boundary.  Go through it, and continue on the trail in Coronado National Forest.  You’ll see your environment start to change as you enter into more of a grassland.  It’s not quite as steep here, but you’ll still descend.
• 17.9 mi – The end of Turkey Creek Trail.  Continue straight on the Turkey Spring Road, a 4WD Road (Forest Road #4408).  It has great views!
• 19.4 mi – The 4WD road ends, and you come to a primitive campsite area.  We got a bit lost here;, exit through a metal gate and follow the dirt road.
• 19.8 mi – The road ends in a T intersection.  To the left and right is Happy Valley Road (Forest Road #35).  Go right.
• 20.2 mi – On your right is the road to Miller Creek Trailhead, almost there.  Head down the road.
• 20.4 mi – You’re back where you started.

Places

• Benson Comfort Inn | 630 S Village Loop, Benson, AZ 85602
• Miller Creek Trailhead | 32.151929, -110.482352
• Happy Valley Campground | 32.153920, -110.519760
• Devil’s Bathtub | 32.196430, -110.545760
• Manning Camp | 32.20623, -110.55544
• Spud Rock | 32.21869, -110.55048
• Turkey Creek Trailhead | 32.17679, -110.48209
• El Guero Conelo | 5802 E 22nd St, Tucson, AZ 85711

Maps

• Manning Camp via Miller Creek Map (KTNP)
• Saguaro National Park Rincon District Map (NPS)

Links

• Saguaro Wilderness Permits (Recreation.gov)
• Saguaro National Park 2020 Backcountry Guide PDF (NPS)
• Saguaro National Park Camping (NPS)
• Manning Camp History Article (NPS)

The post Backpacking to Manning Camp appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Schoodic Point

The drive to Schoodic Point from the Schoodic Institute is quick.  We parked, and hopped out of the car to see a giant slab of uneven multi-colored rock.  The waves were crashing into the rocky shoreline in different places, so we kept our eyes open for a good photo spot.  We scrambled around on the huge rock outcropping to capture photos of the waves.  Some visitors were getting close to the waves, but we kept a safe distance.

There were a decent amount of people around the day we visited.  We saw visitors taking photos, exploring the rock formations, and just soaking up some sun.  It would also make a nice picnic spot.  Schoodic Point was the highlight of my day (although K claims that Schoodic Institute was her favorite part).  But despite its uniqueness, we thought that other parts of Acadia were more impressive.  We enjoyed the views and peaceful atmosphere, snapped some photos, and then we were ready for a hike.

Schoodic Head Trail

There are quite a few trails in Schoodic, and even a new trail system to reflect the historic character of the carriage roads on Mt. Desert Island.  Time was limited, but we wanted to hike one more trail, since it was our last day in Acadia.  So we choose a 2.6 mile loop up to Schoodic Head.  Schoodic Head is only at an elevation of 440 feet, so it’s not a particularly hard hike.  We drove from Schoodic Point over to the parking lot at Blueberry Hill.

We started on the Anvil Trail, which was across the road from the parking area.  The trail went up and down and passed through some interesting rock formations.  I banged my knee on one of them, and my knee started twitching every time I bent it.  I’m very clumsy.  Thankfully, I was able to complete the hike without any other issues!  This part of the hike was only 0.8 miles long, but about 0.3 miles in, there is a nice vista near a large rock outcropping known as “the anvil.”

Once done with the Anvil Trail, we were pretty much at the top, and it was only a short distance on the Schoodic Head Trail to the summit.  There are good views, but we had to search for them, as much of the summit is forested.  After getting some photos we headed back the way we came on Schoodic Head Trail, then continued on past the Anvil Trail.  Near the summit we saw a research station for studying bats.  We were curious, as we’ve seen similar things in other parks, but there was limited information.  The Schoodic Head Trail continued south for another 0.5 miles.

The Schoodic Head Trail deposited us onto a dirt road.  In a tenth of a mile or so, the road disappeared, and we were on the Alder Trail.  It’s a fairly uninteresting trail that led us back 0.6 miles to the Blueberry Hill Parking lot.  While the loop trail was a nice walk, it didn’t compare to the trails we hiked in other parts of the park.  Since it was our last experience in Acadia, it was a bit of a letdown.  But before driving back to Bangor, we decided to grab dinner in Winter Harbor, the closest town to Schoodic Peninsula.

Winter Harbor

Winter Harbor is a small town, with limited restaurants and attractions.  We were divided between two restaurants that we found: Raven’s Nest and Fisherman’s Galley.  Ultimately, we chose Fisherman’s Galley.  We think it ended up being a good choice.  The burger, fries, and beer (or wine for K) was exactly what we needed.  They have the usual lobster rolls too, but somewhat regrettably, we didn’t try them.

We discussed our day as we ate.  The consensus was that Schoodic is unique and worth the visit if you have time, but we’d recommend MDI and Duck Harbor more highly.  However, we wished we had more time to explore Schoodic, particularly the carriage roads, campground, and other trails.  The highlights were the Schoodic Research Institute and Schoodic Point, so that’s what we recommend if you have limited time.

And with that, our vacation was over.  We had already loaded up our car, so we headed down the road to Bangor, where we would fly home the next day.  As we drove, we chatted about our trip and decided that we would definitely revisit Acadia someday.

Schoodic Head Trail
Distance: 2.6 miles / 4.2 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Loop
Elevation Gain: 608 feet / 185 meters
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A couple groups of people, but plenty of solitude
Water: Oceans, but we didn’t see any type of fresh water.
Directions to Parking at Blueberry Hill: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the Blueberry Hill Parking lot, walk north on the road for about 0.1 miles until you reach the Anvil Trailhead on the left side.
• Mile 0.1 – Ascend the Anvil Trail.
• Mile 0.4 – You’ve reached “the anvil,” a rock outcropping.  Continue hiking up.
• Mile 1.2 – This area is a bit confusing, with multiple intersecting trails.  Continue north toward Schoodic Head along the Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.3 – You’ve reached Schoodic Head at 440 ft, so take in the views, and then head back the way you came on Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – When you get to the intersection with the Anvil Trail, continue on Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Schoodic Head Trail ends, and deposits you onto a dirt “road” called Ranger Cabin Road.  Head south, or left as you turn off the Schoodic Head Trail.  After a short while, connect onto the Alder Trail.
• Mile 2.6 – The Alder trail ends at the road, at Blueberry Hill Parking Lot, completing the loop.

Highlights: Views, rocky scramble areas
Notes: The attached map and elevation below specifies the hike as a 2.5 mile because it excludes the starting portion on the road.

Places
Schoodic Point | 44.3345092, -68.068083
Blueberry Hill Parking | 44.3391124, -68.0461742
Fisherman’s Galley | 7 Newman St., Winter Harbor, ME 04693

Maps
Schoodic Head Loop Trail Map (KTNPBlog)

The post Schoodic Point & Schoodic Head Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Duck Harbor Mountain Trail

We had just arrived at the campground, and had only gotten settled in for an hour or so before we ventured out, but it was already early afternoon.  We wanted to experience as much as possible during our 4 days and 3 nights on Isle au Haut.  Heading east from the campground, we walked along a small trail that goes along the shore of Duck Harbor.  We ventured off-trail for a view of the harbor and rocky shoreline.  There we found lots of mussel shells, as well as a few crab shells.  The crab shells intrigued us, we wondered why there were so many.  Later, a park ranger told us that seagulls routinely drop live crabs on the rocks, feast on the crab, and leave the shell behind.  So you’ll find them scattered along the coastline.

Soon, we reached the Duck Harbor Mountain trailhead sign. The trail begins on a service road, and a pit toilet is conveniently located at the trailhead.  We turned right to continue on the service road, and immediately stumbled upon the log cutter for the campground.  We had been wondering where the machine was!  After 0.1 miles on the service road, we turned left into a wooded area to continue onto Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.

We started going uphill, over roots and rocks.  As we continued, the trail led out of the forest and onto huge exposed rocks.  Here, we relied on cairns to point the way up to the summit, which reminded us of our hike at Pemetic Mountain.  Hiking on the exposed rock soon gave us amazing views of Duck Harbor, and the surrounding area.  There are also some blue blazes that pointed us in the right direction.

Before long we reached a false summit, which provided great views of the harbor.  We actually thought we were at the top at this point, before noticing we could continue uphill.  We took a break anyway, enjoying the breeze and vistas.  The hike continued, going downhill briefly before ascending the mountain again with some cool rock scrambles.  Some of the rock features were a lot of fun to climb – this was a definite highlight of this hike.  When we saw a US geological survey marker, we knew we had reached the summit of Duck Harbor Mountain.  Interestingly, we preferred the views from the false summit.

The descent sent us scampering over rocks, passing through a narrow path between boulders, and into a pine forest, as we slowly hiked to the coast.  It wasn’t long until the Duck Harbor Mountain trail ended, and we reached Squeaker Cove, a beautiful rocky beach where we took a break and relaxed.  We felt the refreshing sea breeze, and enjoyed the sound of small rocks rolling around as the waves came in.  We think the cove was named for the “squeaky” sound the rocks made as they tumbled.  This was one of our favorite places on Isle au Haut; it felt very secluded and peaceful.  It was also fun to walk around the cove, and peek in some of the tide pools.

Eventually, we had to leave Squeaker Cove behind.  We turned right onto Goat Trail, which continues along the coast and eventually hits the access road we had started on.  If you’re looking for an easier hike back to the campground, you can take the access road.  As we came to the road, we met Alison, the park ranger who had met us at the dock, with one of the other rangers.  “I thought you were going to take it easy and relax today?” she said.  We laughed, since we had told the rangers that our plan for day 1 included lots of relaxing.  But we quickly realized how tough that is when you’re in such a beautiful place with so much to explore!  We waved goodbye as they drove on, and we continued onto the Cliff Trail.

The Cliff Trail ends at the southern end of the Western Head Peninsula.  Here, Western Head trail begins, heading north.  Western Ear Island is also at the southern end, separated from the peninsula only by a narrow sand bar.  At low tide, you can cross onto the island.  We were hoping to do just that, so we could explore the tiny island (there aren’t any trails there), but sadly we had arrived solidly at high tide.  So we just sat there, enjoyed the view and perfect sunny-but-breezy weather before continuing on.  If you happen to get to Western Ear Island, let us know how it is!

Soon we were on a boardwalk crossing a marshy area.  I was immediately on the lookout for some carnivorous plants; we didn’t see any, but we did see a small wood frog.  We also came upon various coves and beaches as we hiked.  Sadly, some were strewn with trash and buoys.  If you collect a certain number of buoys, you can earn a junior ranger badge.  It’s for kids (mostly), but the rangers offered it to us to if we collected bouys.  We found out too late, otherwise I would have!  The buoys are heavier than they look, so you might want to spread it out if you do choose to collect them (and help keep the beaches clean).  Every year a group travels to Isle au Haut to clean up the beaches and coves, but a lot of trash washes in the rest of the year.  It’s a bit disheartening, as some places have a lot of it.

As you cross the rocky beaches, there are cairns to guide the way.  It’s a bit of a hunt sometimes to determine which way to go.  After 1.5 miles on Western Head Trail, we joined back up with the access road, and continued 0.4 miles back to the trailhead.  We made it back to our campsite while it was still light out, which allowed us to see a gorgeous sunset as we ate dinner and relaxed in our hammock.  A great first hike on Isle au Haut!  And spoiler:  It was our favorite hike on Isle au Haut.

Duck Harbor Mountain Trail
Distance: 4.2 miles / 7.8 kilometers
Total Elevation Gain: 1102 feet / 335 meters
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: We saw only about 3 people on the whole trail.  5 counting park rangers.
Water: There’s the ocean… a few small streams you’ll step over, and some boggy areas.
Parking: In Stonington, most likely
Directions to Trailhead:  From Duck Harbor Campground, take the service road east for 0.1 miles until you reach an intersection
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – At the intersection with the service road that cuts through Western Head, head south.  You’ll pass a wood cutter in a few hundred feet on your right.  If you look closely, you may see some sundews along the road.
• Mile 0.1 – Turn left onto Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.  You’ll go through a forest with rock scrambling and incline to reach the top of the mountain.  Along the way you’ll also get to a false summit, with great views.  Blue blazes and cairns will help you on your way.
• Mile 0.2 – Arrive at the “false summit” of the mountain.  See the views, then descend a bit before ascending toward the actual summit.
• Mile 0.4 – Arrive at the summit of Duck Harbor Mountain.  Views weren’t as great as those at the false summit, though.  Continue your descent, scrambling along the way as you go through mossy forests.
• Mile 1.2 – Arrive at Squeaker Cove, and enjoy the sights and sounds.  Then turn right onto the Goat Trail, which is relatively flat.
• Mile 1.5 – Continue straight onto the Cliff Trail.  You’ll see Western Head Road (the service road) on your right.
• Mile 2.3 – Reach the southernmost tip of Western Head Peninsula.  If it’s low tide, you can cross over to Western Ear Island and explore!  Head north on Western Head Trail to go across boardwalks and through a somewhat swampy area.  There are a lot of rocky beaches along this trail too.
• Mile 3.8 – Turn left onto the service road (Western Head Road), and continue north, eventually passing the trailhead for the Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.
• Mile 4.2 – Arrive back at the trailhead!

Highlights:  Amazing views of Duck Harbor, fun rock scrambling, and a diverse range of ecosystems
Notes: Our favorite hike on Isle au Haut!

Places:
Duck Harbor Campground | 44.028130, -68.652953
Duck Harbor Mountain Hike Trailhead | 44.028038, -68.651038
Squeaker Cove | 44.016180, -68.644663

Maps:
Duck Harbor Mountain Trail Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

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Jordan Pond Path

Our drive from Blackwoods Campground to the Jordan Pond Path trailhead took about 10 minutes. We arrived around 9:30 a.m., and parked in the Jordan Pond House parking lot. Parking wasn’t a problem, since JPH doesn’t open for brunch until 11 a.m. (later in the day, the lots do fill up though). We started our hike along the east side of the lake on the Jordan Pond Nature Trail, which becomes Jordan Pond Path. This part of the hike was easy, and there were a number of other visitors. We stopped a few times to snap some scenic photos – the twin mountains known as The Bubbles, the clear waters of Jordan Pond lined with rocks, as well as sundews, a tiny, red, carnivorous plant (T’s dad is a botanist who specializes in carnivorous plants, which has led to many educational treasure hunts).

We crossed a wooden bridge, then turned right at the fork toward the Pemetic trailhead. This leg of the hike was easy and cool under the tree canopy as we left the crowds behind. We hiked up a short incline for about 0.4 miles, and eventually reached a small parking lot off Park Loop Road. When we crossed the road, the fun started.

Pemetic Mountain Ascent

We began to ascend over a huge field of boulders. I hadn’t done much rock scrambling in my hiking past, but this was where I began to really enjoy it. After bouldering our way up for a bit, we ran into some fellow hikers. They mentioned that the trail splits briefly, and they recommended the ravine path (on the left) rather than the ledge path (on the right). After finding a confusing sign, we understood what they meant. Following their advice, we kept left for the ravine, and were glad that we did. The ravine had tons of boulders and tree roots, as well as two wooden ladders, which was an interesting change of pace. If you’d rather ascend up a giant boulder, take the ledge. Choose your own adventure!

After we passed the ravine, there were fewer boulders, and more hiking/scrambling up a solid rock surface. Parts of it almost looked like lava flows due to the smooth and continuous nature of the rock. The weather on this particular day was sunny and warm, but breezy. The variation in terrain also made this hike really enjoyable.

As we continued to hike, we passed several wayfinding cairns, also called Bates Cairns, which I’ve never seen anywhere else. The cairns consist of a long flat rock, supported by two rock “legs” below, and a small rock on top that points out the trail direction. As we continued toward the summit, short trees began to appear, and so did the lakes below. By the time we reached the summit, we had just short of a 360 degree view of lakes, the ocean, rocks, trees, and islands. This was the perfect spot to grab lunch and enjoy the gorgeous scenery and weather.

Pemetic Mountain Descent

The descent was peaceful and scenic. We walked over an exposed rock face that stretched out across the mountain, and we could see the ocean and greenery all around us. I could feel the warmth of the sun emanating from the rock, as well as the cool breeze – a great combination. As we descended further, the trail became more shaded. On the way down, we ran into a couple volunteers from Friends of Acadia. They were doing trail maintenance, including checking the orientation of the cairns. Remember not to move or attempt to “fix” the cairns (or construct new ones), as hikers rely on them for wayfinding – we would have gotten lost a couple times without them.

Eventually we returned to the trailhead and crossed Park Loop Road to arrive back at Jordan Pond House. My thoughts: Sublime. My favorite hike. The variation in terrain, breathtaking views, and rocky terrain made this hike a lot of fun. Will definitely revisit.

Pemetic Mountain North-West Trail
Distance: 4.2 Miles
Elevation Gain: 1133 Feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Parking: Park at Jordan Pond House North parking lot (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Walk toward Jordan Pond. Turn right onto Jordan Pond Nature Trail (0.2 mi), then turn left onto Jordan Pond Path (0.9 mi). Turn right onto Jordan Pond Carry (0.4 mi). There are 2 trailheads here; keep right. Turn right onto Bubbles Divide (after about 0.1 mi, you will pass a parking lot and cross Park Loop Road). Follow trailhead for Pemetic Northwest Trail (approx. 0.6 mi) until you reach the summit. Stop and enjoy the amazing views! Follow signs for Pemetic South Ridge Trail (1.2 mi). Turn right onto the Bubble Trail (0.5 mi). Cross Park Loop Road and continue straight toward Jordan Pond Nature Trail. Continue straight onto Jordan Pond Nature Trail (0.2 mi).
Highlights: Rock scrambling, ladders, views, lake…everything
Notes: You can skip the Jordan Pond section by parking in a small lot off Park Loop Road, close to the Pemetic NW trailhead, and doing an out-and-back hike (be cautious if descending over the rock scramble portion).

Places:
Hike Trailhead at Jordan Pond Path | 44.322931, -68.253719
Pemetic NW Trailhead | 44.341081, -68.250316
Blackwoods Campground | 155 Blackwoods Drive, Otter Creek, ME 04660
Jordan Pond House | 2928 Park Loop Rd, Seal Harbor, ME 04675

References:
KTNP Pemetic Mountain Northwest Trail Map

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Ocean Path

After navigating Acadia’s partially one-way Park Loop Road, we parked our car near Otter Cliff Overlook, a peninsula on MDI. We were careful not to drive too far and miss the last parking point, so we parked at the first lot we came to, on the southernmost part of the peninsula (there are 2 lots – Otter Cliff and Otter Point). Acadia can be crowded, and parking lots fill up. We got a late start for the hike, having done Jordan Pond House and Waterfall Bridge earlier in the day. So we missed a small portion of the Ocean Path trail, but at least we found parking.

We crossed Park Loop Road and started our Ocean Path hike (more of a walk, really). Immediately we were met with gorgeous rocky coastline views. Apparently lots of people like rocky beaches, because the trail was packed with tourists. As you hike north on a gravel path, there are many scenic overlooks, including a rocky beach with bowling ball sized boulders and vertical cliffs. There were many photo ops, so we stopped often. We spotted the only ocean-side sandy beach, aptly named Sand Beach, from several points along Ocean Path.

After about 1.2 miles, we reached Thunder Hole, a popular spot where you can hear the “thunder” of waves hitting the rocks through an underground cave. A gate kept visitors from going past the safe point due to current weather/sea conditions. The view was nice and the “thunder” was an interesting experience, but really wasn’t as great as we hoped. Perhaps it’s more spectacular at high tide.

Though we were tempted to stop at every overlook, we had to keep these stops short so we could finish our hike before nightfall (particularly given the potentially dangerous terrain of The Beehive). Eventually, we reached the end of Ocean Path at Sand Beach. If we had more time, we would have gone for a walk in the sand (a few days later, we went to Sand Beach for a family-oriented Stargazing Ranger Program that was focused on storytelling). We crossed Park Loop road to continue onto the Beehive.

Beehive Trail

The Beehive is an iconic hike with major view payoff, but the catch is that much of it is vertical, taking you up the rock face via iron rungs. The difficulty of the hike, combined with our later start time, meant the hike wasn’t too crowded.

The Beehive starts with some bouldering and otherwise moderate hiking, before you reach the first iron feature, a small bridge. The picture doesn’t do it justice. It doesn’t give you any sense of what you might feel when you cross it (or what went through my mind as I surveyed the rocks below and imagined myself crossing it). There is no handrail, and I couldn’t turn to the side because I was wearing a daypack. Carefully, I crossed to the other side and took a sigh of relief. This is the part where you commit to this hike (or not). After T crossed behind me, he commented that the bridge felt “slippery,” which is sort of terrifying to hear when you’ve been married for a month.

As we continued up the vertical ascent, the woman behind us and I joked about falling to our deaths. T was rolling his eyes and just enjoying himself, but there were definitely parts of the hike that felt scary. I guess I have to get used to it, since our goal is to explore all 59 national parks. And when you get to each viewpoint, it’s totally worth it. For example, there are gorgeous views of Sand Beach from The Beehive as well.

As we followed the cairns, we ascended more rock stairs and iron rungs. Finally, we reached the summit, where we were able to walk on relatively flat rocky ground (!). The view was beautiful, as we could see Champlain Mountain fading into the distance and rain sweeping over the ocean. We ate a snack, got some fellow hikers to snap a photo, and began the descent. The Beehive continues down to The Bowl (a small lake to the west), but we decided to skip that part since it was getting late. We turned left to go down a small connector trail. This part was much easier, and led us down the rocks and back to Ocean Path.

Thoughts: The vertical part of this hike was intimidating at first, but I’m so glad I did this hike! Just stay on the trail, remember to breathe, and you’ll be fine. And don’t look down too much. Trails in Acadia have some unique features, along with amazing views you won’t want to miss. Two other trails in Acadia have iron rungs: Precipice and Jordan Cliffs. Next time, we’d love to do the Precipice Trail – it’s similar to the Beehive’s terrain, but is longer and more strenuous. From March through August, the Precipice and Jordan Cliffs Trails are typically closed for Peregrine Falcon nesting. We went in 2016, and both trails were closed beginning March 15, and reopened on July 29. Make sure to check alerts before you go.

Ocean Path & Beehive Trails | 5.9 Miles Round-Trip, Out and Back
Elevation Gain: 528 feet
Difficulty: Easy (Ocean Path) & Difficult (Beehive)
Trailhead Parking: Park near Otter Point (Google Maps Directions). There is another parking lot at Otter Cliff (Google Maps Directions), if the Otter Point lot is full.  If you’re just doing the Beehive, park at Sand Beach (Google Maps Directions), or there are a few spots along the road beside the Beehive Trailhead.  If you’re just doing Ocean Path, you can hike from either direction – park at Otter Point/Otter Cliff or at Sand Beach.
Trail Directions: Park at Otter Point or Otter Cliff. Cross Park Loop Road and turn left onto Ocean Path. Go 1.2 miles to Thunder Hole. Continue another 2.0 miles to Sand Beach. At this point, the main Ocean Path ends and you can begin the Beehive. Cross Park Loop Road, and continue until you reach the Beehive trailhead on your left. Continue 0.2 miles until you reach a fork. Keep right to continue on the Beehive (the straight/left path is the Bowl Trail, which you’ll return on). You’ll climb iron rungs until you reach the summit, about 0.2 miles. After taking in the views at the top, continue straight toward The Bowl. The trail will skirt the lake, then you’ll come to an intersection with the Champlain South Ridge Trail. Turn left onto the Bowl Trail and keep on the trail for 0.5 miles, at which point you’ll reach the intersection with the Beehive Trail. Continue straight to return the way you came for 0.2 mi. back to the trailhead. Return on Ocean Path.
Highlights: Views, rocky shorelines, beaches, iron features on Beehive
Notes: You could do each trail individually. Ocean Path is 4.4 miles out-and-back, and Beehive is a 1.5 mile “lollipop.”

Places:
Southern Ocean Path Trailhead and Otter Point Parking | 44.307695, -68.192267
Northern Ocean Path Trailhead and Sand Beach Parking | 44.329748, -68.183764
Beehive Trailhead | 44.331543, -68.185257
Otter Cliff Parking | 44.310749, -68.189804
Thunder Hole | 44.320730, -68.188380
Sand Beach | 44.329199, -68.182038

References & Maps:
KTNP Trail Map of Ocean Path & Beehive

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The hike begins across from the small parking lot, with room for 10-15 cars. Fortunately, there were still a few parking spots available on the day we went. There is a map posted beside the parking lot, which has 2 route options: one with rock scrambling (the obvious choice) and one without. Cross Skyline Drive and hike up the stone staircase to begin the hike. This is the first in a series of stone and log staircases that characterize the hike. We tried to research the history of the trail, but didn’t find much. We think it must have been built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), and we could see the care that was put into the design of the trail. Ferns covered the forest floor, which made the start of the hike very picturesque.

The fog made the woods appear ethereal and added an element of visual interest. Eventually we reached the rock scrambling portion, but I would not describe it as “mostly vertical” like the park website does. If it was, that would have been pretty awesome. But I would say it’s moderately challenging, and you do gain some elevation. There were some parts that were tricky to climb, but it was not strenuous. We’re not into extreme sports, so rock scrambling is the perfect balance for us.

We ran into several other groups during the hike, and had to wait briefly a few times while they climbed the rocks in front of us. Wait time was minimal and did not affect our enjoyment of the hike. We thought many of the rocks were granite, due to their slab-like appearance. Later we found out they are greenstone, formed from lava compressed over millions of years. It was a lot of fun to hike over them – just watch your footing.

Eventually, we reached the highest point on the rock scrambling section, and were greeted with a 360 degree view. Even though we couldn’t see far because of the thick fog, it was still a nice view of the treeline fading into the distance. Due to the combination of rocky terrain and fog at the summit, it was difficult to tell which way was up, and the horizon appeared to be at an angle. It was beautiful, but kind of disconcerting that I couldn’t properly orient myself. To cross the mountain of boulders at the peak, I had to move slowly and steady myself with my hands. Rock scrambling can be rough on your hands, but this one is short enough that gloves are not a necessity.

After the rock scrambling portion, we reached an intersection – to the right, the trail loops back to the parking lot. Continuing straight led to a viewpoint that was only about 300 feet away, so we decided to check it out. On the way to the viewpoint, we saw some white and yellow wildflowers that were one of many photogenic parts of Bearfence Mountain Trail. It was interesting to see a few varieties that flower in the fall. The viewpoint itself had very limited visibility due to the fog, so it was less than impressive. On the way back down, we turned left at the junction and took a connector trail before turning right onto the Appalachian Trail, which led back to the parking lot.

The rock scramble was the most fun part of this short hike, and it left us wanting more. We were hopeful based on the name of the trail, but sadly, we didn’t see any bears. Nor did we see any fences. Maybe next time.

Bearfence Mountain Trail | 1.1 Miles | Difficulty – Moderate
Elevation Gain: 311 Feet
Parking: Park at mile marker 56.4 on Skyline Drive (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Cross Skyline Drive, and hike about 0.15 miles until you reach an intersection. Continue straight on Bearfence Loop Trail. Continue hiking over rock scrambles, until you reach another intersection for about 0.35 miles. Continue straight about 300 feet to the viewpoint. After reaching the viewpoint, turn around, and go back to the intersection. Go left on the connector trail and in about 200 feet turn right on the Appalachian Trail. Continue 0.3 miles until you reach an intersection, and go left 0.1 miles to return to the parking lot.
Highlights: Rock scrambling, views, short trail if you don’t have a lot of time
Notes: No dogs on Bearfence Mountain Loop Trail

References:
Shenandoah NP Bearfence Mountain
Bearfence Mountain Trail Map

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