When I think of Arches National Park, the iconic Delicate Arch immediately comes to mind. It’s the largest freestanding arch in the park. Images of it are everywhere – on tourism literature, Utah license plates, and more. And it was finally time for us to visit it. Frank Beckwith, the leader of a scientific expedition in the area between 1933–1934 is credited with naming the arch. And it is delicate. Some day Delicate Arch, formed by erosion of a sandstone fin, will fall.

The main 3.2 mile round-trip trail to the famous arch is, not surprisingly, very crowded. We went in the afternoon, but if you go very early in the morning or later in the evening, you may avoid some of the crowds. Besides Delicate Arch, there are nearby petroglyphs and the defunct Wolfe Ranch. Two additional trails to a lower and higher viewpoint are also nearby. They’re both easy hikes, so we decided to check them out first.

Lower and Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoints

The parking lot for the Upper and Lower Viewpoint Trails is a mile east of Delicate Arch Trail. The trail splits at the start, and we headed right to the lower viewpoint. The lower trail is only 0.1 mile. It’s an ADA trail, so it’s an easy hike on level terrain. However, the view isn’t that impressive since the arch is so far away, but if you don’t hike the main trail at least there’s this option. After checking that out, we went back to the split and headed onto the Upper Viewpoint Trail.

Getting to the upper viewpoint requires a 10-15 minute uphill climb with minimal scrambling. The trail is only 0.6 miles round-trip. It’s cool to get another glimpse of the arch, but again, not that impressive from this far away. It’s impossible to get to Delicate Arch from this area, as there’s a canyon called Winter Camp Wash in between. These trails don’t offer much more than a view, so if you plan to hike Delicate Arch Trail, you can skip them. We headed back to our car to drive to the main trail.

Delicate Arch Trail and Wolfe Ranch

It was time for the main trail to Delicate Arch. We arrived at the huge parking lot around 3:30 pm, and thankfully there was still parking. As we began the trail, we saw log cabins in front of us. This is Wolfe Ranch, settled by John Wesley Wolfe and his family around 1898. They were drawn to the area by a nearby freshwater spring. The Wolfe family lived on the property until they moved to Moab in 1910. The ranch was sold, and eventually purchased by the US government as part of Arches National Monument.

As we approached the ranch, we saw two buildings and a nearby corral. Old farm equipment lay scattered around. Visitors can’t enter or touch either building, but you can explore the grounds and look into the larger cabin through a screen door. It was built in 1906, when John’s daughter, Flora, moved to the area. Six people slept in the one-room cabin. Interestingly, Flora took the first known photograph of Delicate Arch in 1906.

After checking out the buildings, we continued along the trail and crossed Salt Wash. There was some water flowing but not a substantial amount. Seasonal flooding from the wash will occasionally close the road to Delicate Arch. The park is currently working on removing an invasive non-native plant called tamarisk that contributes to the flooding. We assume the water in the creek isn’t potable because of salt content, but we haven’t been able to confirm.

Immediately after the bridge, we turned left at a sign that simply said “Petroglyphs.” A short side trail leads to Ute Native American petroglyphs. They were inscribed sometime between 1650 and 1850, and they resemble horses and bighorn sheep. The area directly in front is fenced off so we could only get so close. It’s interesting to think about the people who carved them and their meaning.

Delicate Arch Trail

We rejoined the main trail, and started ascending a paved incline, which afforded us some views back to the Salt Wash area where we had just been. Reaching the top, we saw the trail dip down, then go up a huge sandstone slope. Large groups of people moved steadily onward.

There was no shade and it was getting pretty hot as we climbed. Please bring water; we saw people without it as they hiked. At the top of the uphill portion, we reached an area with some random cairns that people had made, next to a sign that pointed in the direction of the trail. (Note: creating cairns goes against the principles of Leave No Trace. This disturbs the natural landscape and can be confusing to hikers).

At this point, we followed the crowd since there were so many other hikers on the trail. Eventually we made it to a natural sandstone bowl. Directly across it was Delicate Arch! But there was no way for us to get to the arch from this direction (not easily at least). We realized we had missed a cairn and were on the wrong side of a sandstone fin. That’s what we get for following the crowd and not the cairns. Initially we tried to find our way up to Delicate Arch from here, but the route was sketchy, so we decided to backtrack instead. It was still cool to see a different view of the arch.

We backtracked until we found the trail again. It weaved around to the other side of the fin, where the path narrowed to three feet wide. A steep dropoff was on our left. It’s generally wide enough for two people, and it didn’t bother us, but I had read some visitors find it scary.

To our right was a slickrock incline that led to a small arch, called Frame Arch (also called Twisted Donut Arch). You’ll see why if you look through it – it literally frames Delicate Arch, so it’s a great place to take a photo. Unfortunately, there was a short line of people waiting for the same opportunity. It took about 10 minutes for one visitor to finish what they were doing before we could get an unobstructed view.

In 2016, someone carved their name into Frame Arch, severely damaging it. Thankfully, the park service was able to repair some of the damage by filling in the carving. But it’s still depressing that they had to do that in the first place. As a reminder, please leave no trace!

Delicate Arch

Continuing along the ledge, we ascended. As we came around a big rock, we immediately saw Delicate Arch. It seems to appear out of nowhere; you can’t see it from a distance as you approach like other arches. There were a lot of people scattered around the area, quietly observing the arch. Delicate Arch itself sits on the southeastern end of the bowl that we were at earlier.

Before we hiked the trail, Kristin wondered what the fuss was about. Now she understood the hype. Delicate Arch is a large, unique, freestanding formation, and the trail is challenging and enjoyable. We were glad we visited when we did, as the snowcapped La Sal Mountains provided a gorgeous backdrop for the iconic arch.

Nearby, visitors waited to get a photo with Delicate Arch. Everyone was quiet and respectful, which was much appreciated. After getting a close-up shot, we sat down and spent some time with the arch and got to know it a bit better. Before we knew it, it was time to go. We headed back the way we came. It was a bit scarier walking along the right side close to the ledge on the way down. After the hike, we drove to Moab and ate dinner at Milt’s – a super casual burger and fries type place that we recommend.

Delicate Arch is a treasure, so don’t miss it. The trail is somewhat difficult, and you’ll be surrounded by quite a few people, but it’s worth it. If you’re concerned about the crowds, try hiking it very early or later in the day. We loved the uniqueness of both the trail and the arch, and intend to visit again someday.

Delicate Arch Trail

Date: Tuesday, March 27, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 3.2 miles (5.2 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 743 feet (227 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including breaks
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: A lot everywhere
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views, Petroglyphs, History
Directions to Delicate Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: It can get hot, so bring plenty of water. Try to hike in the morning or evening to avoid crowds.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the parking lot head east on Delicate Arch Trail
• 0.1 mi – Turn left toward Wolfe Ranch. The trail will loop around the cabins, and back onto Delicate Arch Trail.
• 0.2 mi – Take another left toward the petroglyphs. The trail will loop past the inscriptions and rejoin the main trail.
• 0.9 mi – Begin ascending a large sandstone slope.
• 1.5 mi – Arrive at Frame Arch, and stop to check out the view of Delicate Arch through it. Shortly after Frame Arch is a narrow ledge that leads to Delicate Arch.
• 1.7 mi – Stop and enjoy Delicate Arch. Then return along Delicate Arch Trail.
• 3.2 mi – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Wolfe Ranch | 38.736371, -109.519721
• Ute Petroglyphs | 38.73751, -109.51864
• Frame Arch (Also known as Twisted Donut Arch) | 38.744037, -109.501137
• Delicate Arch | 38.743594, -109.499281

Maps

• Delicate Arch Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Wolfe Ranch (NPS)
• Historical First Photo of Delicate Arch by Flora Stanley, 1906 (NPGallery)
• Removing Tamarisk at Salt Wash (NPS)
• Frame Arch Graffiti (NPS)
• Delicate Arch (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Delicate Arch Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Typically, staff and volunteers go out of their way to help visitors, but that wasn’t our experience here.  It seems neither was even interested in hiking, nor were they that willing to look up information.  Slightly perturbed, we decided to look elsewhere.  On our way out, we noticed a poster listing good hikes to do that season.  Clearly someone at the VC does care enough to post the info.  After perusing the list, we decided on Ringtail Trail, since it claimed to feature wildflowers in spring.  Perfect.  We also discovered that a ringtail is a mammal, similar to a raccoon, that lives in the southwestern United States.

Before we left the visitor center, we decided to watch their video, “Voices of the Desert.”  The video had some photos of cacti and other plants.  It discussed the geography and biology of the region, and presented a poignant perspective from the indigenous Tohono O’odham Native American tribe.  There’s even a surprise at the end of the video.  I won’t spoil it for you, but it’s definitely worth the time if you visit!

“If you throw trash on this earth, you throw trash on your relatives because they are back into the earth.”

– Member of the Tohono O’odham Native American Tribe

Ringtail Trail

The following day, we drove to the trailhead.  It’s in the northern part of the West District, and took some time to get to.  We drove through the southern part of the park, past the visitor center, past the Bajada Loop, past a small gas station with a Subway, and (finally) onto Picture Rocks Road.  The road cuts right through the park, and it seems a lot of people just use the road to do just that.  As we drove, we passed the Cam-boh picnic area on the right, which has the closest restroom to Ringtail Trail.  On our left, we saw Panther Peak.  There’s no trail that goes up to it, though a ranger had mentioned a social trail – but the park discourages its use.  It’s too bad, because it looks like a fun hike.

The map indicated that we should park at Box Canyon parking lot, but it isn’t well-marked.  We initially pulled onto the shoulder, thinking we found it, but saw no signs or trailhead markers.  We continued driving, and found the lot a bit further up, on the left if you’re driving east, where the road curves.  The hike begins in a wash across the street.  We started hiking at 11am (we’re not early risers), but would recommend starting much earlier, because it was HOT.

This 3.4 mile loop includes several named connector trails.  We weren’t sure what to expect – possibly a hot, over-exposed walk in deep sand – but we were pleasantly surprised.  The hike begins in a wash on the titular Ringtail Trail, but we were treated to very nice views of Pictured Rocks on the left.  In a short 0.1 miles, the trail splits. Cam-Boh Trail goes to the right; we turned left to continue on Ringtail trail, which becomes a true trail rather than a wash.

As we hiked, we kept an eye out for wildlife and wildflowers, and we were soon rewarded with both.  First, we saw some pretty yellow wildflowers on a shrub beside the trail.  I’m not up to date on my western flowers, but I looked it up when we got home and found out it was a Whitestem Paper Flower.  Nearby, we spotted a rabbit weaving in and around the saguaro and cholla as we passed by.  As with most of the trails in Saguaro, we also spotted plenty of lizards skittering across the path.

We hiked on Ringtail Trail for 0.9 mi before turning right onto Picture Rocks Wash Trail.  Given the name “Picture Rocks,” I imagine there are (or were) petroglyphs somewhere, but we didn’t see any.  Walking in sand takes more effort than other types of terrain, and this loop continually switches between a trail and a wash.  The wash was hot, but thankfully there were a few trees, like Palo Verde, that provided momentary shade.  As we continued, we found an optimal place to stop for a break – a small rocky outcropping that looked like a tiny canyon.  This would have made a great lunch spot, too.

Soon after the canyon, we reached Ironwood Forest Trail, the final segment of our hike.  Once again, we were on a path rather than a wash.  It is an enjoyable trail, with good views of mountains and cacti.  We also found a Saguaro with a single blooming flower off the trail.  Saguaro typically bloom from April to June, and we visited at the start of the season.  We only saw a few blooming saguaros during our trip.  I wish we had seen many more, particularly flowers that were lower to the ground to photograph.  The ones we saw were at the top of the saguaros, though perhaps there is a reason for this.

Ironwood Forest trail leads to Cam Boh trail, which goes for 0.2 miles, back to the start of the loop.  And then it was only a 0.1 mile walk back to the Box Canyon parking lot.  We were tired, and ready for some lunch.  We headed back to the Subway we had spotted earlier to grab a quick bite.  As we ate, we agreed this hike was surprisingly interesting, with a variety of scenery and wildlife.

Signal Hill Trail

After our lunch & AC break, there was one more thing we wanted to do before saying goodbye to the Tucson Mountain District.  We wanted to drive the Scenic Bajada Loop, and hike the short Signal Hill Trail to some petroglyphs.  Research told us the drive is unpaved, but provides great views of the desert landscape.  We had also read that the road is bumpy, but 4-wheel drive is optional.  Since we had rented a higher-clearance SUV, we figured that would do.

Since some sections are one-way, we started the loop in a clockwise direction.  The dusty drive seemed…a bit underwhelming.  The wildlife and views were similar to what we’d just seen on our hike; it might be meant for visitors who are short on time or not into hiking.

The real reason to drive the Bajada Loop though?  It leads to Signal Hill Trail, the largest petroglyph site in the Tucson Mountain District.  The trail is only 0.5 mi round trip, and leads up a rocky hill.  There are dozens of petroglyphs, and some of the best are at the top.  The petroglyphs are estimated to be around 800 years old, and were created by the Hohokam people who inhabited the Sonoran Desert from around 450 A.D. to 1450 A.D (NPS Article).  The trail and petroglyphs are very interesting and well worth a visit.  The spiral petroglyph at the top was my favorite.

On our way out, we stopped at Red Hills Visitor Center one last time to fill up our water bottles (they have a nice bottle filler we recommend).  We spoke with another park ranger there, and found her to be more informed and helpful than the ranger from the previous day.  Confidence somewhat restored.  While there, we couldn’t resist buying some some prickly pear jellies.  They tasted like a combo of grapes and raspberry – when in Rome!  Then, on to our next adventure: Manning Camp.

Ringtail Loop Trail
Distance: 3.4 miles / 5.5 kilometers roundtrip
Time: 3 hours, including breaks and many photos
Type: Lollipop Loop
Cumulative Elevation Gain: 378 feet / 115 meters
Net Elevation Gain (top minus bottom): 194 feet / 59 meters
Difficulty: Easy, just watch out for the heat depending on the season
Crowds: None (we didn’t see anyone else)
Water: No water features, unless you’re here during monsoon season (Summer, June 15 to Sept 30)
Directions to Parking at Picture Rocks / Box Canyon Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – After parking, cross the road to reach the trail.  You’ll start in a wash.
• Mile 0.1 – At the fork, keep left to continue on Ringtail Trail, and out of the wash.
• Mile 0.4 – Continue straight on Ringtail Trail (you’ll pass Mule Deer trail on the right).
• Mile 1.0 – You’ve reached the end of Ringtail trail; turn right onto Picture Rocks Wash Trail.
• Mile 1.7 – After passing through a canyon-like rock formation, you’ll turn right onto Ironwood Forest Trail.  You’ll head north, and out of the wash.
• Mile 3.0 – Ironwood Forest Trail ends; turn right onto Cam-Boh Trail.
• Mile 3.2 – You’re back at the intersection with Ringtail Trail.  Turn left to head back to the parking lot.
• Mile 3.3 – Done!  You’re back at the trailhead.

Highlights: Views, saguaro cacti, mountains
Date Visited: It took us awhile to blog about this trail.  Luckily we take detailed notes!  We visited Ringtail Trail and Signal Hill on April 16, 2017.

Links:
Signal Hill Petroglyphs Article (NPS)

Places:
Picture Rocks Trailhead / Box Canyon | 7768 W Picture Rocks Rd, Tucson, AZ 85745
Signal Hill Picnic Area | 32.28977, -111.2085897

Maps:
Ringtail Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
Tucson Mountain District Trail Map of Saguaro NP (NPS)

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After a short drive from Gilbert Ray Campground, we pulled into an unmarked parking lot just past the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum.  There were a few other cars already parked there.  If parking does become an issue, I guess you could park at the museum, though they probably frown on that.  It was a great day, if a little hot, to get a hike in.  I immediately saw my first Saguaro flower – in the parking lot.  Sadly, it would be the only blooming Saguaro I’d see that day (for reference, we were there on April 15).

As we walked toward the trailhead, we realized there were two trails: King Canyon trail on the right, and King Canyon Wash trail that goes to the left.  A wash, we learned, is a low, sandy trail that becomes a stream or river during monsoon season (June 15 – Sept 30).  We headed right to avoid the sand, though the two trails would later converge.

The trail initially is an old gravel road and as we hiked, we started to notice plants we had seen the day before at the Arizona-Sonoran Desert Museum, like ocotillo.  Our experience at the museum helped us identify holes and scars in saguaros, the skeletons of dead cacti, and cactus boots caused by damage from woodpeckers that made their homes in saguaros.  The trail also had gorgeous views of the surrounding mountains.

Near the junction of King Canyon Wash Trail and King Canyon Trail, we came upon an old stone structure.  This defunct restroom was built by the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) in the 1930s.  Nearby, and up a short trail, is the Mam-A-Gah Picnic Area.  There are grills, in case you want to cart in a few slabs of meat, as well as a sheltered picnic area lined with dead saguaro cacti.  We took the opportunity to rest in the shade of the picnic area while taking in the view.  It’s the only picnic area in the park that requires hiking to get to!  Like the old stone restroom, the picnic area was built by the CCC in the 1930s.  Mam-A-Gah picnic area was named after a Tohono O’odham Indian Chief.

Continuing on, we crossed paths with our first lizard.  These guys would be darting across the trail quite often as we hiked along, but it was novel the first time we came across one.  It was nice enough to let me take some photos of it.  At this point we were crossing a wash to continue onto the King Canyon Trail.  We didn’t know it, but there are also some petroglyphs nearby in the wash.  We wish we had known about it, instead of finding out after!

After our slight detour, we continued to gain elevation on King Canyon Trail.  Along the way we saw plenty of saguaros, great views, and some flowering cacti.  There weren’t many other hikers on the trails, but we saw a few other groups.  We passed the intersection with Sweetwater Trail, which is another route to Wasson Peak.

At this point, we were famished.  We ate our lunch of tuna and crackers in the shade of a single saguaro.  As the sun continued to rise, it threatened to take away even this tiny bit of shade.  Fortunately, we were able to finish our lunch without being completely exposed to the sun, and we continued on.  You know that saying, “it’s hot, but it’s a dry heat?”  Well, it’s not true.  In the Sonoran desert, there are virtually no trees to provide shade except maybe an occasional palo verde tree, so it’s really….just hot.  And since it is a dry heat, you need to carry a heavier load to accommodate extra water.

The landscape slowly changes as you ascend.  There are fewer saguaro, and we started seeing jojoba bushes, which we had learned about the previous day at the museum.  So we highly recommend you go beforehand!  It was fun to search out the different plants we had learned about.  Jojoba bushes are unique because they are dioecious – the plants are either male or female.  The male plant has yellowish-green flowers which pollinate the small acorn-shaped seeds that come from the flowers on the female plant.  The seeds contain Jojoba oil, which is used in personal care products.

This section of the King Canyon Trail was grueling, and we took breaks where we could find shade – either from saguaros or from a few rock outcroppings.  Our destination was in sight though – we could see Wasson Peak, more or less.  Our next intersection was with the Hugh Norris Trail, which leads to the top of Wasson Peak.  At this point, we only had 0.3 miles to go.  At the top, there was an amazing 360 degree view and a breeze which provided some relief from the heat.  Luckily we had stopped to reapply sunscreen, because we were still completely exposed to the sun.  We had the summit to ourselves, apart from one butterfly.  We took a break, ate a snack, snapped some photos, and headed back down.

We made a loop, so we didn’t go back down the King Canyon Trail.  Instead, we joined together the Hugh Norris, Sendero Esperanza, and Gould Mine (not a typo) trails.  The journey down from Wasson Peak was pretty similar to the way up, but was still a nice hike.  It was getting later in the day, so we played games with the sun as we sought shade every so often.  In the distance, we could see the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum.

The Gould Mine Trail was the last trail along our route.  Saguaro National Park was not left “untouched” before it became a park.  A lot of mining and grazing went on beforehand, and continued after it became a National Monument.  Evidence of the park’s history is scattered throughout the area.  We found several mines; most were just huge holes in the ground, with some remnants of stone buildings.  The Gould Mine was a copper mine founded in 1906, and then shut down in 1908.

When Gould Trail ends, it’s only a short uphill hike on the King Canyon Wash Trail, and then you’re back at the parking lot.  This turned out to be our favorite hike in the western section of Saguaro.  The views were incredible, and the breeze was nice too.  Perhaps partly because it was our first hike in the park, but I’d still love to hike it again someday.

We got back into our car, where we saw that we had made a fatal mistake – we had left two bananas in there.  They had baked and turned jet black due to the heat.  Just another reminder of how hot it can get here.  Our stomachs growling, and our bananas trashed, we set off in search of food.

Wasson Peak via King Canyon Trail
Distance: 7.8 miles / 12.6 kilometers roundtrip
Time: 7 hours, including lunch, breaks, and many photo ops
Type: Loop
Trail Markings: There are no blazes, but the trail is well defined.  You might see a couple cairns, and there are signs at intersections.
Overall Elevation Gain (Every gain): 2,494 feet / 760 meters
Net Elevation Gain (Top minus Bottom): 1,769 feet / 539 meters
Difficulty: Strenuous – not just the trail, but also the heat depending on the season
Crowds: A few groups in mid-April, but we saw maybe 25 people max
Water: No water features, unless you’re here during monsoon season (Summer, June 15 -Sept 30)
Directions to Parking on Picture Rocks Road: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – Continue to the back of the parking lot.  Keep right for King Canyon Trail.  To the left is the King Canyon Wash Trail – which you could also take, if you prefer walking in sand.
• Mile 0.9 – The trails are a bit messy here, but you’ll continue on the King Canyon trail.  Follow the signs.  The King Canyon Wash Trail merges with King Canyon Trail here, and there are side trails as well.  We recommend checking out the Mam-A-Gah picnic area while you’re here.
• Mile 2.3 – Sweetwater Trail intersects with King Canyon trail.  Make a left, and continue climbing on King Canyon Trail.
• Mile 3.2 – From here you can see the summit, so head right on Hugh Norris Trail.
• Mile 3.5 – You’re at the Wasson Peak Summit!  Enjoy the view!  Then continue back the way you came.
• Mile 3.8 – Back at the intersection of King Canyon and Hugh Norris trails.  Continue straight onto Hugh Norris Trail.
• Mile 5.7 – Take a left turn onto Sendero Esperanza Trail.
• Mile 6.7 – Turn right onto Gould Mine Trail.
• Mile 7.8 – Gould Mine Trail runs into King Canyon Wash Trail.  Hike up the sloped sandy hill, and you’re back at the parking lot!

Highlights: Views, Saguaro Cacti, History, Mountains

Date:
It takes us awhile to write a blog post.  We visited Wasson Peak on April 15, 2017.

Places:
Mam-A-Gah Picnic Area | 32.2564931,-111.1621568

Maps:
Wasson Peak via King Canyon Map (KTNP)
Trail Map of Saguaro NP (NPS)

Links:
History of Mining in the Tucson Mountain District (NPS)
2015 Arizona Daily Star Article about Gould Mine

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