So far in Crater Lake National Park, we had hiked some lesser known trails like Boundary Springs. It was finally time to do some more “popular” hikes. Today we decided to hike Mount Scott, a 4.3 mile out and back trail located on the eastern side of the park. The trail ascends 1318 feet, and features views of Crater Lake and the surrounding mountains. Mount Scott is the highest point in Crater Lake National Park at 8929 feet and is named after Levi Scott (1797–1890), an Oregon politician and pioneer.

After getting a late start, around 11 a.m., we peered over steep cliffs on the side of Rim Road as our car weaved its way up to the trailhead. The parking lot was full – it’s small given Mt. Scott’s popularity. Thankfully, a short distance beyond was a picnic area that had some parking. It also had a pit toilet, which the lot at the trailhead lacks.

Mt. Scott Trail

Carefully, we walked along the narrow shoulder of the road to the trailhead. Even in late July, a small snowfield partially covered the beginning of the trail and other areas of the mountain. Some hikers went around, and some trudged through.

Initially, the trail ascended gently, but quickly became steeper and more exposed to the sun. On a warm summer day, we were glad to have the occasional tree to take a break under, as well as a slight breeze. We ascended up switchbacks, which allowed for beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. While we stopped to admire the mountain view, we realized Crater Lake was already visible!

As usual, I stopped to check out some wildflowers. An older couple passed us and the man asked, “Oh, are you a wildflower guy too?” That made us smile (I am). We chatted briefly and he told us about a type of flower higher up that looked like something from Dr. Seuss. The fluffy flower was a called a Western Pasqueflower and we soon found it.

Not surprisingly, the views improved as we ascended, though they were partially obstructed by trees in places. The trail is steep and narrow. There were a lot of other hikers on the trail; if you’re looking for solitude, this isn’t the hike for you. We also had some unexpected guests: butterflies. Hundreds, maybe thousands of them!

As we hiked, we could hear wings flapping, and butterflies continually ran (flew?) into us, which was somewhat disconcerting. It was certainly a surprise! Ascending higher only made more appear. Why were there so many? We didn’t find out the answer until later; they were California tortoiseshell butterflies, and they appear every 5-6 years, possibly because of a migration event. Lucky us, we just happened to time it right.

Mountain Ridge and Fire Tower

Hiking further up, we passed three firefighters descending the mountain. With several active wildfires in the park, we weren’t too surprised to see them. There’s a fire tower at the peak, though there is no public access.

Switchbacks are annoying, but the turns allowed us to take in the views. Finally, we came to a ridge, which leads to the fire tower. As we walked along the narrow gravelly ridge, we enjoyed a breeze, as well as more breathtaking views of Crater Lake to the left and mountains to the right.

Butterflies swarmed over the ridge. We stopped to take in the phenomenon. They were flying over our heads, but they didn’t bother or land on us. It was time for lunch, so we ate near the fire tower. A ground squirrel appeared and ran around us. It had probably been fed by other tourists, so we made sure to protect our food.

After lunch, we began the steep and rocky descent. Trekking poles helped minimize the impact to our knees, and we definitely recommend them. We saw a couple pushing a stroller – probably not recommended with the rock and loose gravel, especially near the top. Although it was very warm, hikers continued to ascend in the mid-afternoon.

Mount Scott Trail has a steady incline, loose dirt and gravel, and plenty of sun exposure. The trailhead sign states that it’s strenuous, though a seasoned hiker might find it moderate. We enjoyed the trail and views, and the butterflies made it an almost otherworldly experience. Our recommendations: visit on a weekday, arrive early to avoid crowds as much as possible, and choose a day with milder weather since there isn’t much shade. Enjoy!

Mount Scott Trail

Dates: Saturday, July 29, 2017
Type: Out and back hike
Total Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km) round-trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1,318 feet (402 m)
Time: 3 hours, including lunch and lots of photo breaks
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Very populated
Water: None; views of Crater Lake
Highlights: Views, fire tower, snow, wildflowers, butterflies
Note: If main parking lot is full, look for the picnic area further north
Directions to Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the trailhead, follow the trail. You might cross a couple snowfields before starting the ascent up switchbacks.
• 2.2 – Arrive at the top of the mountain. Check out the sweeping views and fire tower, then head back down the way you came.
• 4.3 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Mount Scott Trailhead | 42.9316667, -122.0323522

Maps

• Mount Scott Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Butterflies News Article
• Levi Scott (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Mount Scott Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We were feeling a bit sad on our last full day in Redwood National and State Parks. But we were going to go out with a bang. Our main activity for the day was Boy Scout Tree Trail, a 5.6 mile out-and-back hike located in Jedediah Smith State Park.

The trail is gorgeous, and features many old growth redwood trees. A small waterfall, called Fern Falls, makes the turnaround point a scenic lunch spot. Near the end of the trail is Boy Scout Tree – two redwoods that have grown together, resembling the Boy Scout salute.

Howland Hill Road

Howland Hill Road leads to Boy Scout Tree Trail. The unpaved road bisects Jedediah Smith State Park and is a great scenic drive. Along the road are trailheads for Boy Scout Tree, Mill Creek, Nickerson Ranch, and Stout Grove trails. The narrow, picturesque road winds around enormous redwood trees. It was prettier and more well-maintained than we expected. Cars pulled to the side of the busy road so visitors could take photos.

After a couple miles on Howland Hill Road, we stopped at a small parking lot for the trail. There are no restrooms at the trailhead, so plan ahead. The parking lot can fill up quickly, as this is a popular hike. But when we arrived at noon, there were still spots available. We grabbed our packs and lunch, and set off into the woods.

Boy Scout Tree

Our hike took us through a beautiful redwood forest, with sunlight occasionally streaming in through the dense trees. The trail is easy to moderate, with some rolling hills and exposed roots. We crossed a bridge over a small trickling creek and stopped to take a selfie.

We crossed several other bridges, went under overhanging trees, and climbed stairs built into the trail. Even after being in the park for a week, we marveled at the size of the redwoods – they were some of the biggest we’d seen. Along the trail we waved to some of our old friends, the banana slugs.

Ahead, we spot a sign that reads “B.S. Tree.” It’s either the Boy Scout tree, or someone is playing a joke on us. The sign points to the right, up a steep, partly-eroded trail. About 100 feet into the trail, we reach Boy Scout tree, which has a small wooden label attached. Essentially it’s two gigantic trees fused together at the bottom. Its height made it difficult to photograph!

Fern Falls

After spending a few minutes at Boy Scout Tree, we returned to the main trail and continued hiking. Ten minutes later, we arrived at Fern Falls. The waterfall is nice, but it was the wrong time of the day to photograph it as the sun was shining directly on it. Fallen trees partially blocked our view of the falls.

Nearby was a log with a view of the falls, which doubled as a picnic bench, so we relaxed and ate some lunch. Groups of hikers came and left at a steady rate, exploring the waterfall, pools, and streams. After finishing my lunch, I wanted to explore. To my surprise, I saw some small fish swimming in the pools near the falls.

As I watched the fish swim around, my eye caught another creature – a salamander. There were actually a couple of them, but they were hard to see since they blended in so well. I watched them for awhile, and called Kristin over to take a look too. These were juvenile salamanders, who spend their life in the water. What exact species, I wasn’t sure, but there are eight different species of newts and salamanders in the area according to the park website.

After some more exploring, we headed back toward the trailhead. On the way, we saw someone pushing a stroller on the trail. That seems like a losing proposition with the roots and stairs, but to each their own.

Boy Scout Tree Trail is a well-maintained trail with large redwood trees. The falls at the end were a bit disappointing, though the fish and salamanders kind of made up for it. With that, our Redwood adventure was over, and our next stop would be Crater Lake National Park.

Boy Scout Tree Trail

Dates: July 23, 2017
Type: Out-and-back day hike
Total Distance: 5.6 miles (9.0 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1386 feet (423 m)
Time: 3 hours hiking, which includes lunch and photo breaks
Trail Markings: Sign pointing to Boy Scout Tree
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: We saw a lot of groups
Water: Fern Falls, streams
Highlights: Large redwood trees, wildlife, waterfall, streams
Directions to Boy Scout Tree Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Start the trail from the parking lot
• Mile 2.4 – A sign points to a short trail on the right. Walk about 300 feet to see Boy Scout Tree. Then go back to the main trail.
• Mile 2.9 – You’ve arrived at Fern Falls. A social trail appears to continue beyond the falls. Explore, eat lunch, just be you. Then go back the way you came.
• Mile 5.6 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Boy Scout Tree Trailhead | 41.7682991, -124.1128776
• Boy Scout Tree | 41.7823324,-124.1354714
• Fern Falls |41.7818276, -124.1354898

Maps

• Boy Scout Tree Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Boy Scout Tree Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Rose River in Shenandoah National Park has been on our to-do list for awhile.  Several attempts in the past floundered due to laziness or something coming up at the last minute.  We’d made it to Mathews Arm Campground for the weekend, so we took the opportunity to finally hike Rose River Loop.

The hike is located off Skyline Drive in Shenandoah’s Central District, across from Big Meadows Campground.  We decided to make a 5.1 mile loop that included Dark Hollow Falls.  We prefer loops over out-and-backs because we don’t have to hike a section more than once.  Dark Hollow Falls is a spectacular waterfall, and a short hike from Skyline Drive.  Naturally, it was very crowded when we visited.

Fisher’s Gap

There were two options for parking:  Fisher’s Gap or Dark Hollow Falls trailhead.  Fisher’s Gap is located around mile marker 49.5 on Skyline Drive; Dark Hollow Falls is at 50.5.  We decided on Fisher’s Gap, because it was the first parking lot we encountered as we drove south from Mathew’s Arm Campground.  We also figured Dark Hollow Falls parking lot would be full, since that section of trail is very popular (spoiler alert: it was).  For that reason I’d recommend parking at Fisher’s Gap.

We turned onto a dirt road near mile marker 49.5. The small parking lot was full, but this wasn’t Fisher’s Gap. It was access to Red Gate Fire Road, though a gate blocks vehicular access further in.  Next to it is Fisher’s Gap Overlook, a paved parking area that had plenty of available spots.  After parking, we walked south toward Skyline Drive, passing the Appalachian Trail on our right.  When we reached Skyline Drive we saw the crosswalk for Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail, where our hike began.

Horse Trail to Big Meadows

We walked on the right shoulder of Skyline Drive, and then headed uphill on the yellow-blazed Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Though we didn’t see any horses nor any…evidence of horses.  Only other hikers.  This trail leads to Big Meadows Campground in 1.4 miles, where we would cross Skyline Drive, then hike to Dark Hollow Falls.  After the waterfall, we would hike Rose River Trail, which leads back to Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap.

Trees surrounded us as we gradually ascended Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail. The sunlight streaming through the trees both relaxed and energized us. As we hiked, we noticed stone trail markers every ½ mile, which we assume are for horseback riders.

As we approached Big Meadows Campground, two deer – a doe and fawn – crashed through the underbrush.  We must have startled them, because once they spotted us, they slowed down and started browsing for food by the trail.  They’d clearly become accustomed to people. After observing the deer at a safe distance and giving them the right of way, we continued on.

The trail continued until we reached a stream crossing.  While easy for horses to cross, it’s a bit harder for humans.  Looking to our left we saw a bridge further downstream.  We followed the creek bank to the bridge, but we realized we didn’t need to cross it. If we had waded through the stream crossing, our route would have immediately turned left and then taken another left across the bridge, to where we now stood. So we were on Story of the Forest trail.

As we walked, Hogcamp Branch flowed on our right. It would later join with other streams and become Dark Hollow Falls.  A short 0.2 mile hike later, we got to Skyline Drive.  Across the road we saw the Dark Hollow Falls parking lot, jam-packed with cars.  We had seen a few hikers so far, but starting here we’d see more than we could count until we passed Dark Hollow Falls.

Dark Hollow Falls Trail

We crossed Skyline Drive and turned left onto blue-blazed Dark Hollow Falls Trail, which rapidly descends.  The entire way down to the main waterfall, 0.7 miles, Hogcamp Branch runs to our right.  There are a few places that are worth a stop and/or photo on the way down, with small cascades or swimming holes.  But we had to share them with lots of visitors, not that we expected to have it all to ourselves.

The trail was wet and muddy from rain the previous day.  It’s also rocky and steep in places, but otherwise manageable.  The return trip would be more of a challenge due to the incline.  We reached the upper falls overlook, and looked out over the wooden fence.  Many visitors trudged past the upper falls, without stopping.  They are worth a look, but you can get closer to the even more dramatic lower falls.

Dark Hollow Falls flows down multiple levels over 70 vertical feet.  It’s been a rainy summer this year (2018), so the volume of water was impressive.  We snapped some photos from a distance as we waited…and waited…for other groups to take their close-ups and selfies. Finally it was our turn, so we quickly captured the falls before another park visitor could jump in front of us.

Before long, we moved on and were glad to leave the bulk of people behind.  We wanted to eat lunch, but it definitely would not be at Dark Hollow Falls.  Most hikers retrace their steps here and go back up Dark Hollow Falls Trail.  Not us, we continue going down and Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends at Rose River Fire Road.  At the fire road, we turned right and crossed Hogcamp Branch via a bridge.

As we crossed the bridge, we saw a peaceful waterfall on the right.  It seemed like a nice place to stop and eat lunch.  But as we sat down, a large and boisterous group of boy scouts stopped to take a break here, too.  So we left, in search of a quieter lunch spot.  Right after the bridge, we turned left onto Rose River Loop Trail.  For a shorter loop from Fisher’s Gap, we could have also made a route with Rose River Loop Trail and Rose River Fire Road, though this route skips Dark Hollow Falls.

Rose River Loop Trail

We continued our descent with Hogcamp Branch on our left. Rose River Loop Trail is less steep than Dark Hollow Falls Trail, but slick rock, mud, and water made the trail slippery.  Trekking poles were helpful on this section.  The trail was less crowded than Dark Hollow Falls, though we ran into a few other groups.

Soon we found what we were looking for: a large rock by the stream where we could have lunch.  We took a break and enjoyed the sounds of the water rushing by as we ate.  Once satiated, we continued our hike along the gurgling stream. There are no big waterfalls on this section, but it’s pleasant with small waterfalls and cascades. 

0.8 miles after Rose River Fire Road, we reached a picturesque bridge that goes across Hogcamp Branch.  Soon after the bridge, we ran into an intermittent stream that we need to cross. Since there had been so much rain, this stream was flowing strong, but we got across without any trouble.

At this point, the trail finally starts to head uphill with Rose River on our right.  The initial incline was a bit of a shock to our systems and we were slow to make progress.  But once in a rhythm, we made good time up to Rose River Falls.  The waterfall itself is 67 feet high, only three feet less than Dark Hollow Falls.  To my eyes though, it’s not as impressive.  At the base of the falls were a few people that had hiked off trail and were outrageously loud and screaming. It diminished our enjoyment of the waterfall a bit.  We would have lingered more if it weren’t for them.  We continued our uphill hike and eventually left behind Rose River when the trail veered west.

After 0.7 miles, we reached an intersection and were back on Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Only half a mile to go.  We passed an older couple going the opposite way.  They asked if it was worth it.  Assuming they meant Rose River Falls, I said definitely!  I silently hoped the loud people would be gone by the time they got there.

Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail intersects with Rose River Fire Road.  We crossed the road, the horse trail continuing on the other side.  And a few minutes later we were back where we started on Skyline Drive. 

The waterfalls, which appear on many “best of” lists, are highlights of Shenandoah National Park.  Dark Hollow Falls is more impressive than Rose River Falls, in my opinion.  Just know you won’t have it all to yourself.

Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trails

Dates: September 29, 2018
Type: Loop
Total Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1675 feet (511 m)
Time: 4.5 hours hiking which includes lunch, photography and rest breaks
Trail Markings: Well marked with yellow and blue blazes
Difficulty: Moderate, good elevation gain
Crowds:  Lots of people on Dark Hollow Falls Trail, and a moderate number on the other trails
Water: Plenty of streams, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Waterfalls, streams, wildlife
Directions to Fisher’s Gap Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot, head southwest, toward Skyline Drive.  There is a crosswalk, but don’t cross it.  Head right, uphill on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail.
• Mile 1.2 – You’ll see a stream crossing straight ahead.  If the stream is low, cross it and turn left on Story of the Forest Trail, then cross a bridge.  If the stream is too high, turn left and take the social trail to the same bridge.  You’ll be on Story of the Forest Trail without needing to cross the stream.  Go south on the trail, which is blue-blazed.
• Mile 1.3 – Story of the Forest trail turns right here, across a stone bridge.  You’ll go straight onto Story of the Forest/Dark Hollow Connector Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – Continue straight, going across Skyline Drive.  You’ll see the parking lot for Dark Hollow Falls and the Trailhead sign.  Turn left onto Dark Hollow Falls Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Upper Dark Hollow Falls Viewpoint
• Mile 2.1 – Lower Dark Hollow Falls
• Mile 2.2 – Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends; turn right onto Rose River Fire Road, which is yellow-blazed.  Head right over a bridge with another waterfall on your right.  Immediately after the bridge, turn left onto the blue-blazed Rose River Loop Trail. 
• Mile 3.7 – Rose River Falls
• Mile 4.4 – Continue straight on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 4.9 – Cross Rose River Fire Road and continue on Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 5.1 – Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot

Places

• Fisher’s Gap Overlook Parking Lot | 38.53409, -78.42457 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 49.5
• Dark Hollow Falls Parking Lot | 38.51967, -78.43136 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 50.5
• Dark Hollow Falls | 8.51873,-78.43174
• Rose River Falls | 38.53151,-78.41709
• Big Meadows Campground | 38.52815,-78.43880 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 51

Maps

• Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Big Meadows Campground Map (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Dark Hollow Falls and Rose River Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Schoodic Point

The drive to Schoodic Point from the Schoodic Institute is quick.  We parked, and hopped out of the car to see a giant slab of uneven multi-colored rock.  The waves were crashing into the rocky shoreline in different places, so we kept our eyes open for a good photo spot.  We scrambled around on the huge rock outcropping to capture photos of the waves.  Some visitors were getting close to the waves, but we kept a safe distance.

There were a decent amount of people around the day we visited.  We saw visitors taking photos, exploring the rock formations, and just soaking up some sun.  It would also make a nice picnic spot.  Schoodic Point was the highlight of my day (although K claims that Schoodic Institute was her favorite part).  But despite its uniqueness, we thought that other parts of Acadia were more impressive.  We enjoyed the views and peaceful atmosphere, snapped some photos, and then we were ready for a hike.

Schoodic Head Trail

There are quite a few trails in Schoodic, and even a new trail system to reflect the historic character of the carriage roads on Mt. Desert Island.  Time was limited, but we wanted to hike one more trail, since it was our last day in Acadia.  So we choose a 2.6 mile loop up to Schoodic Head.  Schoodic Head is only at an elevation of 440 feet, so it’s not a particularly hard hike.  We drove from Schoodic Point over to the parking lot at Blueberry Hill.

We started on the Anvil Trail, which was across the road from the parking area.  The trail went up and down and passed through some interesting rock formations.  I banged my knee on one of them, and my knee started twitching every time I bent it.  I’m very clumsy.  Thankfully, I was able to complete the hike without any other issues!  This part of the hike was only 0.8 miles long, but about 0.3 miles in, there is a nice vista near a large rock outcropping known as “the anvil.”

Once done with the Anvil Trail, we were pretty much at the top, and it was only a short distance on the Schoodic Head Trail to the summit.  There are good views, but we had to search for them, as much of the summit is forested.  After getting some photos we headed back the way we came on Schoodic Head Trail, then continued on past the Anvil Trail.  Near the summit we saw a research station for studying bats.  We were curious, as we’ve seen similar things in other parks, but there was limited information.  The Schoodic Head Trail continued south for another 0.5 miles.

The Schoodic Head Trail deposited us onto a dirt road.  In a tenth of a mile or so, the road disappeared, and we were on the Alder Trail.  It’s a fairly uninteresting trail that led us back 0.6 miles to the Blueberry Hill Parking lot.  While the loop trail was a nice walk, it didn’t compare to the trails we hiked in other parts of the park.  Since it was our last experience in Acadia, it was a bit of a letdown.  But before driving back to Bangor, we decided to grab dinner in Winter Harbor, the closest town to Schoodic Peninsula.

Winter Harbor

Winter Harbor is a small town, with limited restaurants and attractions.  We were divided between two restaurants that we found: Raven’s Nest and Fisherman’s Galley.  Ultimately, we chose Fisherman’s Galley.  We think it ended up being a good choice.  The burger, fries, and beer (or wine for K) was exactly what we needed.  They have the usual lobster rolls too, but somewhat regrettably, we didn’t try them.

We discussed our day as we ate.  The consensus was that Schoodic is unique and worth the visit if you have time, but we’d recommend MDI and Duck Harbor more highly.  However, we wished we had more time to explore Schoodic, particularly the carriage roads, campground, and other trails.  The highlights were the Schoodic Research Institute and Schoodic Point, so that’s what we recommend if you have limited time.

And with that, our vacation was over.  We had already loaded up our car, so we headed down the road to Bangor, where we would fly home the next day.  As we drove, we chatted about our trip and decided that we would definitely revisit Acadia someday.

Schoodic Head Trail
Distance: 2.6 miles / 4.2 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Loop
Elevation Gain: 608 feet / 185 meters
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A couple groups of people, but plenty of solitude
Water: Oceans, but we didn’t see any type of fresh water.
Directions to Parking at Blueberry Hill: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the Blueberry Hill Parking lot, walk north on the road for about 0.1 miles until you reach the Anvil Trailhead on the left side.
• Mile 0.1 – Ascend the Anvil Trail.
• Mile 0.4 – You’ve reached “the anvil,” a rock outcropping.  Continue hiking up.
• Mile 1.2 – This area is a bit confusing, with multiple intersecting trails.  Continue north toward Schoodic Head along the Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.3 – You’ve reached Schoodic Head at 440 ft, so take in the views, and then head back the way you came on Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – When you get to the intersection with the Anvil Trail, continue on Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Schoodic Head Trail ends, and deposits you onto a dirt “road” called Ranger Cabin Road.  Head south, or left as you turn off the Schoodic Head Trail.  After a short while, connect onto the Alder Trail.
• Mile 2.6 – The Alder trail ends at the road, at Blueberry Hill Parking Lot, completing the loop.

Highlights: Views, rocky scramble areas
Notes: The attached map and elevation below specifies the hike as a 2.5 mile because it excludes the starting portion on the road.

Places
Schoodic Point | 44.3345092, -68.068083
Blueberry Hill Parking | 44.3391124, -68.0461742
Fisherman’s Galley | 7 Newman St., Winter Harbor, ME 04693

Maps
Schoodic Head Loop Trail Map (KTNPBlog)

The post Schoodic Point & Schoodic Head Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

There are multiple ways to get to town (and by town, we mean to the Ranger Station there).  From the campground you can either follow the main road all the way to town (5.1 miles one way), or hike on the Duck Harbor Trail (4.2 miles one way).  Or, like we did, a combination of both!  The road is faster and easier, but the trail is more direct.  A park ranger had mentioned a bog area where we could see carnivorous plants along the Main Road, so we decided to see that, but otherwise stick to Duck Harbor Trail.  We saw a few cars, including the park rangers, drive through this section.  If you take Main Road, watch for cars – you might not expect them.

To return from Isle au Haut Town, you can hike the network of paths.  Or, as some other campers told us, you can also take the Isle au Haut Mailboat back to Duck Harbor for a discounted price (we don’t remember the exact price, but around $7/person).  Thinking this was a brilliant choice, this was what we had decided to do.  It’s the same boat that you take to get to Isle au Haut, but you’re only on it for the last leg from the town to Duck Harbor.  The only catch is that you have to get to the dock by a certain time to catch the boat, otherwise you’ll be hiking back.  The exact time depends on the day of the week, but for us it was 3:15 pm.  So that was our goal, to get there by then.  We started the hike around 12:30pm, so we’d have to hustle a bit.

We filled up our water supply at the ancient-looking pump (which we mentioned in our “Duck Harbor Campground” post). The water was very iron-rich, but improved a lot after we strained it through a bandanna. Once we filtered it, we continued on the fire road, then turned left onto Main Road.  This route took us around Duck Harbor for a nice view of Duck Harbor Landing, where we had arrived the day before.

After about 0.3 miles, we turned right onto Duck Harbor Trail.  This first part of the trail had a small bit of scrambling, and otherwise was a nice easy forested trail.  We reached an intersection with the Main Road again after 0.8 miles.  Duck Harbor Trail and Main Road intersect a few times as you go toward town.  Since I was interested in seeing the pitcher plants in the bog, we turned right at this point to continue again onto Main Road.  We hiked in a pleasant wooded area with some clearings, which was nice even though it was a fire road.

When we got to the junction with Nat Merchant Trail after 1 mile, we started looking for pitcher plants. Before this trip, K had never seen a pitcher plant, but we got to see a lot of them here!  It’s basically a bulbous cone-shaped plant that tricks and eats insects.  The ones we saw came in neon green, deep red, or a mix of the two.  We saw glimpses of boggy areas that might have had some pitcher plants as we hiked, but we didn’t truly see them until we came to a wide open area.  It was a beautiful view of the bog, with dying trees surrounded by dark water and clusters of crimson red sundews (another carnivorous plant with sticky ‘leaves’).  And there, scattered around, were numerous flowering pitcher plants.

Be very careful if you try to look at the pitcher plants up close, as their environment is marshy and fragile.  I tried to examine these up close, but the surrounding footing wasn’t steady enough, and we are firm believers in “leave no trace.”  Additionally, there were small pink orchids growing in and near the bog.  The eastern half of the Goat Trail (also on Isle au Haut), has the best carnivorous plants that we saw on our trip.  The boardwalk made for easier (and safer!) photography.

After exploring the bog, we continued north on Main Road. After 1.3 miles, we turned back onto Duck Harbor Trail for more peaceful woods, and a few boardwalks.  We also saw some beautiful irises and other wildflowers.  There were several signs along the trail that marked the boundary of Acadia.  After 1.4 miles, we reached signs of civilization, and walked right into what looked like someone’s back yard; there was even a cozy-looking hammock set up.  As we walked closer, we realized it was the Isle au Haut Ranger Station.  Sadly, we reached the station at about 3:30 pm, so we had already missed the last mail boat back to Duck Harbor.  We’re always running late it seems!

The Ranger Station is a quaint building, and has information inside about the park.  Since we had befriended some of the rangers, we wanted to sop in and say hi.  Also, we were hoping they would offer us a lift back since we had missed the last mail boat…but no one was there.  So we grabbed an Isle au Haut passport stamp, then continued to Isle au Haut Town.  Beside the Ranger Station, there is also a pit toilet, which is a luxury when you’re hiking.

Our next stop was the Island Store, the island’s only general store.  As we walked the 0.4 miles from the Ranger Station, we passed by the town landing dock, and a small souvenir store, though we didn’t stop at either.  The Island Store sells basic groceries, hardware, and various other goods that residents on the island need or requested.  And of course, it was more expensive than on the mainland.  The best thing we found was called a Harbor Bar.  It appeared to be an ice cream-cookie sandwich covered in chocolate.  K coerced me into getting it, since she is allergic to dairy…

We sat out back on one of 2 picnic benches.  K ate her sandwich, and I ate my Harbor Bar (a healthy lunch).  The weather was gorgeous, and we had a view of the Isle au Haut Thorofare (the body of water between Isle au Haut and Kimball Island).  There is even a small pier out back at the Island Store.  It was all very picturesque, and a great spot to take a break and eat lunch…or ice cream.

We hiked back to the Ranger station to use the bathroom before heading back to Duck Harbor.  But when we arrived, all 3 Isle au Haut park rangers were there.  So we chatted with them for a bit, they were all friendly and offered information, stories, and even Oreos… mmmm.  And there’s no dairy in those!  Sadly, we didn’t get any offer for a ride back to camp, so it was another hike for us.

We started to head back to the campground, but took the route opposite the way we came, again using a mix of Duck Harbor Trail and Main Road.  This kept things interesting, and limited the amount of revisited trail.  The rangers had mentioned to look out for the local “food truck,” which we were told is referred to as the Lobster Lady.  Sadly, she wouldn’t arrive until the following week.  We did snap a photo of the Lobster shack, though.  Someday we’d love to try this iconic Maine – remote island – “food truck” destination.

Initially we started on the Main Road, before switching to the Duck Harbor Trail at the first intersection.  Here, the trail went along the coast and some rocky beaches, which was a nice change from the trail or road we’d been on.  A side trail also leads down to Deep Cove, but we skipped it since it was getting late.  The trail started to feel a bit long at the end (we were getting tired); the road was monotonous, and the terrain along the trail became fairly similar as we neared the end.

Before long, we arrived back at our campsite, exhausted.  The hike was a lot of fun, and it was great to see a variety of plant life and Isle au Haut Town. But we really wished we had been able to take the mail boat back, and we recommend that for others doing this hike.

Isle au Haut Town via Duck Harbor Trail
Distance: 7.0 miles / 11.3 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Out and Back
Total Elevation Gain: 1155 feet / 352 meters
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate.  The only difficulty is the length.
Crowds: We encountered a couple cars on the Main Road, but saw no people on the trail.
Water: There’s some marshy areas and the ocean, and a couple small streams.
Parking: In Stonington, most likely
Directions to Trailhead (Google Maps Directions):

• Mile 0.0 – First head east on the gravel service road that heads inland. You’ll pass the intersection with the Western Head road in 0.1 miles, and the water pump a bit further.
• Mile 0.4 – Once you reach the intersection with the gravel Main Road, turn left, and go for 0.3 miles northwest.
• Mile 0.7 – The trailhead for Duck Harbor is on the right side of the Main Road.

Trail Directions (via Duck Harbor Trail): 

• Mile 0.0 – The actual “trail head” is here on the right side of the road.  The first part of the trail goes up and down and features a small bit of scrambling.
• Mile 0.8 – You’ll arrive at the intersection with the Main Road again.  Continue straight across (or go on the road, if you’re feeling like it).  This part of the trail goes near the coast, so you’ll be hiking through woods and also rocky beaches.
• Mile 1.0 – To the left, is an optional side trail to Deep Cove, if you have time.
• Mile 2.1 – Once again, an intersection with the Main Road.  Continue straight across, for the last leg of the hike.  This one goes through a few marshy areas so there’s some board walks, but is otherwise fairly straightforward (and a bit monotonous at this point).
• Mile 3.5 – You’ve arrived at the Isle au Haut Ranger Station!  Stop in and say hi, and then check out the town.  Then go back the way you came (or take the mail boat back.  Or hike on the Main Road back.)

Highlights:  Seeing the town and ranger station.  Carnivorous plants, if you’re a nerd like I am.
Notes: The directions are for using Duck Harbor Trail only, but as our post detailed feel free to make detours on the Main Road.

Places:
Duck Harbor Trailhead | 44.030184, -68.651364
Duck Harbor Campground | 44.028130, -68.652953
Isle au Haut Ranger Station | Acadia National Park, Isle Au Haut, ME 04645
The Island Store | 3 Main St, Isle Au Haut, ME 04645 | Hours vary depending on season | (207) 335-5211
Lobster Lady (Facebook) | Location varies on the island | She’s only there during the summer
Bog on Main Road | 44.042623, -68.634540

Maps:
Duck Harbor Trail Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

The post Isle au Haut Town via Duck Harbor Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Duck Harbor Mountain Trail

We had just arrived at the campground, and had only gotten settled in for an hour or so before we ventured out, but it was already early afternoon.  We wanted to experience as much as possible during our 4 days and 3 nights on Isle au Haut.  Heading east from the campground, we walked along a small trail that goes along the shore of Duck Harbor.  We ventured off-trail for a view of the harbor and rocky shoreline.  There we found lots of mussel shells, as well as a few crab shells.  The crab shells intrigued us, we wondered why there were so many.  Later, a park ranger told us that seagulls routinely drop live crabs on the rocks, feast on the crab, and leave the shell behind.  So you’ll find them scattered along the coastline.

Soon, we reached the Duck Harbor Mountain trailhead sign. The trail begins on a service road, and a pit toilet is conveniently located at the trailhead.  We turned right to continue on the service road, and immediately stumbled upon the log cutter for the campground.  We had been wondering where the machine was!  After 0.1 miles on the service road, we turned left into a wooded area to continue onto Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.

We started going uphill, over roots and rocks.  As we continued, the trail led out of the forest and onto huge exposed rocks.  Here, we relied on cairns to point the way up to the summit, which reminded us of our hike at Pemetic Mountain.  Hiking on the exposed rock soon gave us amazing views of Duck Harbor, and the surrounding area.  There are also some blue blazes that pointed us in the right direction.

Before long we reached a false summit, which provided great views of the harbor.  We actually thought we were at the top at this point, before noticing we could continue uphill.  We took a break anyway, enjoying the breeze and vistas.  The hike continued, going downhill briefly before ascending the mountain again with some cool rock scrambles.  Some of the rock features were a lot of fun to climb – this was a definite highlight of this hike.  When we saw a US geological survey marker, we knew we had reached the summit of Duck Harbor Mountain.  Interestingly, we preferred the views from the false summit.

The descent sent us scampering over rocks, passing through a narrow path between boulders, and into a pine forest, as we slowly hiked to the coast.  It wasn’t long until the Duck Harbor Mountain trail ended, and we reached Squeaker Cove, a beautiful rocky beach where we took a break and relaxed.  We felt the refreshing sea breeze, and enjoyed the sound of small rocks rolling around as the waves came in.  We think the cove was named for the “squeaky” sound the rocks made as they tumbled.  This was one of our favorite places on Isle au Haut; it felt very secluded and peaceful.  It was also fun to walk around the cove, and peek in some of the tide pools.

Eventually, we had to leave Squeaker Cove behind.  We turned right onto Goat Trail, which continues along the coast and eventually hits the access road we had started on.  If you’re looking for an easier hike back to the campground, you can take the access road.  As we came to the road, we met Alison, the park ranger who had met us at the dock, with one of the other rangers.  “I thought you were going to take it easy and relax today?” she said.  We laughed, since we had told the rangers that our plan for day 1 included lots of relaxing.  But we quickly realized how tough that is when you’re in such a beautiful place with so much to explore!  We waved goodbye as they drove on, and we continued onto the Cliff Trail.

The Cliff Trail ends at the southern end of the Western Head Peninsula.  Here, Western Head trail begins, heading north.  Western Ear Island is also at the southern end, separated from the peninsula only by a narrow sand bar.  At low tide, you can cross onto the island.  We were hoping to do just that, so we could explore the tiny island (there aren’t any trails there), but sadly we had arrived solidly at high tide.  So we just sat there, enjoyed the view and perfect sunny-but-breezy weather before continuing on.  If you happen to get to Western Ear Island, let us know how it is!

Soon we were on a boardwalk crossing a marshy area.  I was immediately on the lookout for some carnivorous plants; we didn’t see any, but we did see a small wood frog.  We also came upon various coves and beaches as we hiked.  Sadly, some were strewn with trash and buoys.  If you collect a certain number of buoys, you can earn a junior ranger badge.  It’s for kids (mostly), but the rangers offered it to us to if we collected bouys.  We found out too late, otherwise I would have!  The buoys are heavier than they look, so you might want to spread it out if you do choose to collect them (and help keep the beaches clean).  Every year a group travels to Isle au Haut to clean up the beaches and coves, but a lot of trash washes in the rest of the year.  It’s a bit disheartening, as some places have a lot of it.

As you cross the rocky beaches, there are cairns to guide the way.  It’s a bit of a hunt sometimes to determine which way to go.  After 1.5 miles on Western Head Trail, we joined back up with the access road, and continued 0.4 miles back to the trailhead.  We made it back to our campsite while it was still light out, which allowed us to see a gorgeous sunset as we ate dinner and relaxed in our hammock.  A great first hike on Isle au Haut!  And spoiler:  It was our favorite hike on Isle au Haut.

Duck Harbor Mountain Trail
Distance: 4.2 miles / 7.8 kilometers
Total Elevation Gain: 1102 feet / 335 meters
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: We saw only about 3 people on the whole trail.  5 counting park rangers.
Water: There’s the ocean… a few small streams you’ll step over, and some boggy areas.
Parking: In Stonington, most likely
Directions to Trailhead:  From Duck Harbor Campground, take the service road east for 0.1 miles until you reach an intersection
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – At the intersection with the service road that cuts through Western Head, head south.  You’ll pass a wood cutter in a few hundred feet on your right.  If you look closely, you may see some sundews along the road.
• Mile 0.1 – Turn left onto Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.  You’ll go through a forest with rock scrambling and incline to reach the top of the mountain.  Along the way you’ll also get to a false summit, with great views.  Blue blazes and cairns will help you on your way.
• Mile 0.2 – Arrive at the “false summit” of the mountain.  See the views, then descend a bit before ascending toward the actual summit.
• Mile 0.4 – Arrive at the summit of Duck Harbor Mountain.  Views weren’t as great as those at the false summit, though.  Continue your descent, scrambling along the way as you go through mossy forests.
• Mile 1.2 – Arrive at Squeaker Cove, and enjoy the sights and sounds.  Then turn right onto the Goat Trail, which is relatively flat.
• Mile 1.5 – Continue straight onto the Cliff Trail.  You’ll see Western Head Road (the service road) on your right.
• Mile 2.3 – Reach the southernmost tip of Western Head Peninsula.  If it’s low tide, you can cross over to Western Ear Island and explore!  Head north on Western Head Trail to go across boardwalks and through a somewhat swampy area.  There are a lot of rocky beaches along this trail too.
• Mile 3.8 – Turn left onto the service road (Western Head Road), and continue north, eventually passing the trailhead for the Duck Harbor Mountain Trail.
• Mile 4.2 – Arrive back at the trailhead!

Highlights:  Amazing views of Duck Harbor, fun rock scrambling, and a diverse range of ecosystems
Notes: Our favorite hike on Isle au Haut!

Places:
Duck Harbor Campground | 44.028130, -68.652953
Duck Harbor Mountain Hike Trailhead | 44.028038, -68.651038
Squeaker Cove | 44.016180, -68.644663

Maps:
Duck Harbor Mountain Trail Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

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Jordan Pond Path

Our drive from Blackwoods Campground to the Jordan Pond Path trailhead took about 10 minutes. We arrived around 9:30 a.m., and parked in the Jordan Pond House parking lot. Parking wasn’t a problem, since JPH doesn’t open for brunch until 11 a.m. (later in the day, the lots do fill up though). We started our hike along the east side of the lake on the Jordan Pond Nature Trail, which becomes Jordan Pond Path. This part of the hike was easy, and there were a number of other visitors. We stopped a few times to snap some scenic photos – the twin mountains known as The Bubbles, the clear waters of Jordan Pond lined with rocks, as well as sundews, a tiny, red, carnivorous plant (T’s dad is a botanist who specializes in carnivorous plants, which has led to many educational treasure hunts).

We crossed a wooden bridge, then turned right at the fork toward the Pemetic trailhead. This leg of the hike was easy and cool under the tree canopy as we left the crowds behind. We hiked up a short incline for about 0.4 miles, and eventually reached a small parking lot off Park Loop Road. When we crossed the road, the fun started.

Pemetic Mountain Ascent

We began to ascend over a huge field of boulders. I hadn’t done much rock scrambling in my hiking past, but this was where I began to really enjoy it. After bouldering our way up for a bit, we ran into some fellow hikers. They mentioned that the trail splits briefly, and they recommended the ravine path (on the left) rather than the ledge path (on the right). After finding a confusing sign, we understood what they meant. Following their advice, we kept left for the ravine, and were glad that we did. The ravine had tons of boulders and tree roots, as well as two wooden ladders, which was an interesting change of pace. If you’d rather ascend up a giant boulder, take the ledge. Choose your own adventure!

After we passed the ravine, there were fewer boulders, and more hiking/scrambling up a solid rock surface. Parts of it almost looked like lava flows due to the smooth and continuous nature of the rock. The weather on this particular day was sunny and warm, but breezy. The variation in terrain also made this hike really enjoyable.

As we continued to hike, we passed several wayfinding cairns, also called Bates Cairns, which I’ve never seen anywhere else. The cairns consist of a long flat rock, supported by two rock “legs” below, and a small rock on top that points out the trail direction. As we continued toward the summit, short trees began to appear, and so did the lakes below. By the time we reached the summit, we had just short of a 360 degree view of lakes, the ocean, rocks, trees, and islands. This was the perfect spot to grab lunch and enjoy the gorgeous scenery and weather.

Pemetic Mountain Descent

The descent was peaceful and scenic. We walked over an exposed rock face that stretched out across the mountain, and we could see the ocean and greenery all around us. I could feel the warmth of the sun emanating from the rock, as well as the cool breeze – a great combination. As we descended further, the trail became more shaded. On the way down, we ran into a couple volunteers from Friends of Acadia. They were doing trail maintenance, including checking the orientation of the cairns. Remember not to move or attempt to “fix” the cairns (or construct new ones), as hikers rely on them for wayfinding – we would have gotten lost a couple times without them.

Eventually we returned to the trailhead and crossed Park Loop Road to arrive back at Jordan Pond House. My thoughts: Sublime. My favorite hike. The variation in terrain, breathtaking views, and rocky terrain made this hike a lot of fun. Will definitely revisit.

Pemetic Mountain North-West Trail
Distance: 4.2 Miles
Elevation Gain: 1133 Feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Parking: Park at Jordan Pond House North parking lot (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Walk toward Jordan Pond. Turn right onto Jordan Pond Nature Trail (0.2 mi), then turn left onto Jordan Pond Path (0.9 mi). Turn right onto Jordan Pond Carry (0.4 mi). There are 2 trailheads here; keep right. Turn right onto Bubbles Divide (after about 0.1 mi, you will pass a parking lot and cross Park Loop Road). Follow trailhead for Pemetic Northwest Trail (approx. 0.6 mi) until you reach the summit. Stop and enjoy the amazing views! Follow signs for Pemetic South Ridge Trail (1.2 mi). Turn right onto the Bubble Trail (0.5 mi). Cross Park Loop Road and continue straight toward Jordan Pond Nature Trail. Continue straight onto Jordan Pond Nature Trail (0.2 mi).
Highlights: Rock scrambling, ladders, views, lake…everything
Notes: You can skip the Jordan Pond section by parking in a small lot off Park Loop Road, close to the Pemetic NW trailhead, and doing an out-and-back hike (be cautious if descending over the rock scramble portion).

Places:
Hike Trailhead at Jordan Pond Path | 44.322931, -68.253719
Pemetic NW Trailhead | 44.341081, -68.250316
Blackwoods Campground | 155 Blackwoods Drive, Otter Creek, ME 04660
Jordan Pond House | 2928 Park Loop Rd, Seal Harbor, ME 04675

References:
KTNP Pemetic Mountain Northwest Trail Map

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