We don’t go backpacking too often in the middle of summer (travels aside). But we had a free weekend, and we wanted to test out some new gear and get in shape for an upcoming trip to Glacier NP. So it was back to Shenandoah National Park for a quick one-nighter.

Initially we wanted to hike Jeremy’s Run, one of our favorite backpacking routes in the park. In reading some trip reports, it seemed like the trail could be laden with poison ivy in the summer though, which was a no-go for a fairly sensitive individual like myself. Instead, we decided on a 15.2 mile loop trail in the central district. The loop would go up Nicholson Hollow, past White Rocks, and return on Hannah Run Trail.

Planning

While we hadn’t done this exact loop before, White Rocks is a special place for us – it was the first place we ever went backpacking. It was only a one-night ~5.0 mile round trip from Skyline Drive, but we learned a lot and had a great time. This trip would be longer and more strenuous, at 15.2 miles and 3,742 feet cumulative elevation gain/loss. White Rocks Trail features a few views, and a spur trail leads to a waterfall and cave. We planned to camp near the intersection with that spur trail.

As mentioned, I tested out three pieces of equipment on this hike: Brooks Cascadia trail runners, a Sony a6400 camera, and an REI Flash 55 ultralight backpack. All three items were for slightly different uses compared with my current set of gear, which at the time was a pair of Vasque hiking boots, a Sony RX100 IV camera, and an Osprey Atmos 65 AG backpack.

The route we chose starts on the east side of the park boundary. The closest parking is the Old Rag Parking Lot, which fills up early on weekends. A few days before the trip, I called Shenandoah to ask a few questions. Among other things, the ranger informed me that the park may someday require the use of bear canisters, due to backpackers hanging bear bags incorrectly. That was certainly a surprise to hear! We’ll see if it happens.

Day 1 – Nicholson Hollow Trail

We arrived at the Old Rag Parking Lot at 8:30 a.m. on a Saturday. There was plenty of space, but it was filling up fast. First, we requested a backcountry permit at the ranger booth. Then we hit the… road? If you’ve hiked Old Rag prior to 2020, you’re familiar with walking along Nethers Road for a bit before you reach any trailheads. As of 2020, a new parking lot was built closer to the trailheads, across the street from Nicholson Hollow Trail. But in 2019, we had to walk along the road to get to Nicholson Hollow Trail, which splits off before Old Rag Trail.

A trail intersection marker pointed us down a gravel road off to the right. At the end of the road is a gate, and to its right is the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. The first half mile of the trail goes through private property before entering the park. After about one minute on the trail, we reached our first stream crossing, across Brokenback Run. Nicely laid out rocks provided easy stepping stones. But it had rained recently, so the rocks were wet and the stream was flowing fast and high. Luckily we had our trekking poles to help us balance.

I went first, and Kristin followed. As I reached the middle of the stream, my foot slipped and plunged into the chilly water. Of course. My other foot held onto a rock and I pulled myself out easily, but my shoe, sock, and foot were soaked. It turned out to be a good test of the trail runners. Even with the humidity, the shoes drained and gradually dried as I hiked – they were mostly dry by the time we camped later that night.

Shortly after the first stream crossing was an almost identical second one over Hughes River. Two guys crossed from the opposite direction as we waited. They had parked at Skyline Drive, and were taking Nicholson Hollow Trail to get to Old Rag. That’s one way to do it. When it was our turn to cross, I made sure my footing was secure and we both got across without incident.

After crossing, we continued hiking with Hughes River on our left. Occasional paths led out to the river for a better view. There were waterfalls, rapids, and swimming holes along the way – good opportunities to play around with my Sony a6400 camera. Nicholson Hollow is an enjoyable trail, with gradual elevation gain and a peaceful river next door. Along the way, we crossed into Shenandoah National Park.

After 1.2 miles on Nicholson Hollow Trail, we came to an intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail. This area has several backcountry campsites, though it was too early in the day for us to make camp. Another 0.4 miles later, we turned right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail.

Day 1 – Hazel Mountain and River Trails

While we really enjoyed Nicholson Hollow Trail, we really didn’t enjoy Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. It’s a lot of uphill gain, and the trail is overgrown, narrow, and a bit of a slog. To our left was Short Mountain and to our right, Hot Mountain. For 2.1 miles we climbed up, taking a break for lunch about halfway through.

Upon reaching the intersection with Hazel Mountain Trail, we took a short break. While resting, I looked down at my shin and saw a small insect – a tiny deer tick. Oh, that’s why we don’t hike in Shenandoah as often in the summer. Thankfully, it hadn’t attached yet and I shook it off. After our break, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail.

Hazel Mountain Trail isn’t too interesting, but it’s a good workout as it ascends and descends. After 1.2 miles, we turned right onto Hazel River Trail, which descends 700 feet over 1.8 miles. It was also terribly overgrown. Worried about ticks, I made sure to cover my legs despite the heat and humidity. It was probably my least favorite trail on this route.

Day 1 – White Rocks Trail

Eventually, in what took longer than I thought it should, we reached the junction with White Rocks Trail. We passed a few campsites, crossed Hazel River, and began ascending steadily. It’s a tough ascent initially, but eventually we got to a ridgeline that goes up and down as it spans four summits.

There are limited views along this section. If you can find them, faint side trails on the left lead to rock outcroppings that offer better views. These scenic vistas are considered to be the “white rocks.” Unfortunately for us, we didn’t do a great job of finding them – we bushwhacked a bit, but we may have missed some more obvious areas. Hopefully, next time we’ll do a better job of locating the viewpoints.

After 1.4 miles, we reached the intersection with the Cave/Falls Spur Trail, near where we planned to camp. Years ago, on our first backpacking trip, we stayed at a fairly large and private campsite with a huge rock. Unfortunately, this time it was occupied. So we grabbed another nearby site that seemed comparable, minus the huge rock.

It was nice to take a break and unload our gear. So far, I had really enjoyed using my ultralight REI Flash backpack – it’s super comfortable and definitely weighs less than my old pack. Of course, I plan to keep them both. We set up our tent and grabbed our water filtration supplies.

Day 1 – Cave/Falls Spur Trail

We headed down Cave/Falls Spur Trail, a steep tenth of a mile. The closest water source, Hazel River, is at the bottom, along with beautiful waterfall and cave. As we started to descend, two guys came up and said that the falls and cave “aren’t worth it.” We’ve been there before, and we disagree. Plus, we needed water.

At the bottom of the steep hill, we saw a pool of water with a tiny waterfall. After walking upstream along Hazel River, we spotted a second waterfall, known as Hazel Falls. The waterfall is small, pretty, and secluded. On the opposite side of the trail is a cave that goes back about 10 to 15 feet. Even though it’s shallow, it’s interesting and fun to explore.

Both the falls and cave are picturesque, so we experimented with my new wide-angle camera lens. After snapping way too many photos, we began filtering some water. Suddenly, it started raining gently for about 30 seconds. It cooled us off, and foreshadowed what was to come.

Later that evening, I walked along White Rocks Trail to see if there were any other campsites near us. There were, and I spotted an attempt at a “bear bag.” Except it was just a plastic grocery bag tied to a small branch, right next to a tree trunk, about five feet off the ground. Flashback to the park ranger who said Shenandoah may require bear canisters in the future. Now I see why. C’mon people, hang your bear bags properly.

Back in the tent, we did a tick check. This time we found a deer tick attached near my waist. Ugh, I hate ticks. We removed it, then headed to sleep. We drifted off to the sounds of rain, wind, and thunder.

Day 2 – White Rocks Trail

Around 6:45 a.m., we woke up and the rain had stopped, so we were able to make breakfast. Usually we do oatmeal with nuts, seeds, and fruit, but this time we shared a Mountain House hash dehydrated meal. It tasted pretty good, but we missed the dense calories we get from the oatmeal. We packed up and headed west on White Rocks Trail.

White Rocks Trail ascends initially before leveling out. It’s quite narrow in places, and Kristin was in front of me. I saw her step over a snake, and I asked her if she noticed it. “No…” she said, slightly stunned. I stopped with the snake between us. “It’s okay,” I said. “I don’t think it’s poisonous.”

The snake poked its head out onto the path, and just sat there. Kristin and I both backed away to give the snake its space; it immediately slithered across the trail and was gone. Later we looked it up based on photos I took. It was a copperhead…so much for my theory.

After that excitement, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail. We crossed Hazel River and saw a neat pickerel frog (also poisonous) nearby. As we continued, Kristin and I chatted about all the wildlife we’ve seen while hiking, and lamented never having seen a black bear in Shenandoah in the four years that we’ve been hiking there together.

Shortly after, we heard a noise off to the side, and a black bear stepped onto Hazel Mountain Trail about 100 feet in front of us. “Bear,” I said softly, I didn’t have time to say anything else. It glanced at us, then quietly continued across the trail. The encounter lasted only seconds. I didn’t even have time to get my camera out, but it was exhilarating to see a black bear in the wild.

Day 2 – Hannah Run Trail

At the intersection with Catlett Spur Trail, we continued straight on Hazel Mountain Trail. It’s a muddy, uphill climb and we didn’t notice anything special beyond a few yellow Clintonia wildflowers (which weren’t flowering this time of year). After 1.1 miles that seemed much longer, we turned right onto Catlett Mountain Trail, then immediately left onto Hannah Run Trail. There, we ran into some fellow hikers for the first time that day.

The segment of our hike on Hannah Run Trail was 2.4 miles, with steep ups and downs and a few stream crossings. Along the way were a few remnants left by occupants of the area before it became a park: a fireplace and an old stone wall. We ate lunch on the trail, and I found tick #3 on me; thankfully, Kristin hadn’t found any. At a few points near the end of Hannah Run Trail, it looked like there would be some good views, but the trees always seemed to block them. There would likely be more visibility in spring or fall.

About a half mile away from returning to Nicholson Hollow Trail, I felt a popping sensation under my knee, and it started hurting like hell. I could barely move without grimacing, and I had no idea what went wrong. Somehow, we made it to Nicholson Hollow, and found a campsite where I took a break. It helped a bit, and I managed to make it back to our car.

At home, we did a thorough tick check, then showered. That’s when Kristin spotted a tiny deer tick on her leg. Even after checking AND showering! We quickly removed it, and remained vigilant for the next 24 hours or so. As for my knee, it continued hurting for the next week, so I saw my doctor and was told I strained my hamstring. I headed to a physical therapist so I could survive our upcoming trip to Glacier National Park.

Now for my opinion on the gear I tried out. The Brooks Cascadia trail runners, while not having the same amount of grip as my boots, were definitely lighter and dried quickly. The REI Flash lightweight backpack was also a winner; in the end it was more comfortable than my Osprey Atmos AG. We’ll see if that’s still the case with continued use. And while the Sony a6400 took great photos, I realized that I hate changing lenses, so that one is still to be determined.

Overall, the hike was enjoyable. Our favorite sections were Nicholson Hollow, White Rocks, and the Cave/Falls Trail. There are some cozy campsites, though it was disheartening to see how some campers hung their food and other scented items when there are bears nearby. The wildlife we saw also made the trip rather memorable. Spring and fall are probably ideal seasons for this route – if you go in the summer, make sure to stay on the lookout for ticks.

Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow

Date: Saturday, June 29, 2019 – Sunday, June 30, 2019
Type: 1 Night Backpacking Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 15.2 miles (24.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3742 feet (1141 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 8.2 miles (13.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 2650 feet (808 m) gain, 1538 feet (469 m) loss
  • Time: 6.5 hours, which includes lunch and occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A backcountry campsite near the intersection of White Rocks Trail and Cave/Falls Spur Trail
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 7.0 miles (11.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1092 feet (333 m) gain, 2204 feet (671 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Multiple streams and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, history, waterfalls
Directions to Old Rag Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Old Rag parking lot, head 0.1 miles west on Nethers Road. At the fork, turn right onto a gravel road (there’s a trail marker at the fork). After 170 feet you’ll see the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead on your right. Start your hike here. Two stream crossings will come in short succession after hiking 125 feet.
• 1.2 mi – At the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail, continue straight.
• 1.7 mi – Turn right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. This trail has the steepest incline on the route.
• 3.8 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 4.3 mi – Continue straight on Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Catlett Mountain Trail
• 4.8 mi – Continue on yellow-blazed Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Sam’s Ridge Trail
• 5.0 mi – Turn right onto Hazel River Trail, which will descend steeply
• 6.4 mi – Turn left onto White Rocks Trail. About 0.1 miles in, you’ll cross Hazel River and start ascending. The trail follows a ridgeline that goes up and down four summits.
• 8.2 mi – Intersection with Cave/Falls Spur Trail, which leads down to Hazel Falls. There are several campsites in the area, which is where we stayed. Go down Cave/Falls Spur Trail to a water source, Hazel Falls, and a cave.
• 9.3 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 9.8 mi – Turn right onto blue-blazed Catlett Spur Trail
• 10.9 mi – Turn right onto Catlett Mountain Trail and go 230 feet, then turn left onto Hannah Run Trail.
• 13.4 mi – Turn left onto Nicholson Hollow Trail
• 13.6 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Hot Mountain-Short Mountain. At this point, you’ve completed the “loop” part of the hike.
• 14.0 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail.
• 15.2 mi – Back at the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. Continue back up the gravel road to Nethers Road. Head left 0.1 miles to the Old Rag Parking Lot.

Places

• Old Rag Parking on Nethers Road| 38.5721462, -78.294921
• Nicholson Hollow Trailhead | 38.5731685,-78.2958718

Maps

• Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow Trail Map (KTNP)
• Old Rag Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Shenandoah NP Tick Information (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Surprisingly, this was our first hike in the southern section of Shenandoah National Park. Before this, the furthest south we had travelled in the park was Bearfence Mountain. Most of the well known hikes are in the central and northern districts. And while we consider Shenandoah our “home park,” driving there from Northern Virginia can take a while.

We spent a weekend at Big Meadows Lodge, and planned to hike Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail, one of the most popular routes in the south district. The hike includes a section of the Appalachian Trail, forming a 9.8 mile circuit. The combination of trails, which circumnavigates Rock Mountain, is also commonly called Riprap Hollow.

An early start is crucial, especially since the trail is relatively long and strenuous. The loop starts along Skyline Drive, with parking options at mile markers 90 and 92. The lot at mile 90 is the official “Riprap Parking Lot,” while the one at mile 92 is called “Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot.”

Appalachian Trail

Staying at the lodge was a fun new experience for us – and it allowed us to get to the trailhead in just over an hour. As we headed down Skyline Drive, we enjoyed the ambience and scenic overlooks. Eventually, we came to the small parking lot at mile marker 90 – which was totally full. So we drove two more miles to 92, where there were still some parking spaces.

We planned to hike the loop counter-clockwise, starting on the Appalachian Trail. Then we’d take Riprap Trail to Wildcat Ridge Trail, which leads back to the trailhead. The loop could also be hiked clockwise, and we’ll probably try that next time. Going counter-clockwise allows you to arrive at the viewpoints sooner, but you’ll have a steeper ascent on Wildcat Ridge at the end of the route. Hiking clockwise allows you to hit a swimming hole earlier, and you’ll ascend Riprap Trail more gradually.

Our route started on Wildcat Ridge Trail, where we hiked for a few minutes before turning right (northbound) on the AT. This loop is also a good option for backpacking. But the week we were there, signs were posted notifying hikers that backcountry camping was closed due to black bear activity.

This part of the AT is relatively flat, and there were occasional views through the trees to our left (west). It was June, so we only saw a couple blooming wildflowers – mainly rattlesnake hawkweed. On a log, we also saw a huge fishing spider. I’m not really a fan of spiders, but this one was interesting to see. Mountain laurel lined the trail, though it had mostly finished flowering, so we only glimpsed a couple of white flowers.

Riprap Trail – Views

After hiking for 2.8 miles, we reached the Riprap trailhead along Skyline Drive at mile marker 90. A short distance later, we turned left onto Riprap Trail. There are two viewpoints that we wanted to check out along the trail, Calvary Rocks and Chimney Rock. But first, we made our way through some switchbacks and passed by a large talus field.

Shortly after, we reached our first viewpoint along the right side of the trail near Calvary Rocks. Looking northwest from the viewpoint, we saw the Shenandoah Valley and towns below. As we continued on the trail, we saw some rock formations on our left – the true Calvary Rocks. We didn’t have time to explore, but you could go off-trail and scramble around.

As we continued, we quickly came to the next viewpoint – Chimney Rock. As we gazed out again to the northwest, we thought that this view was better than the one at Calvary Rocks. For a shorter hike, this is a good spot to turn around, but we kept going. The views to our right continued as we followed the quickly narrowing trail along a ridgeline.

We gradually began descending the rocky trail to Cold Spring Hollow. Wild azalea and mountain laurel were all around us – unfortunately no longer flowering. We also found blueberry bushes beside the trail, which we hadn’t expected. Most of the berries weren’t quite ripe, but we found a couple that were and snacked on them.

Riprap Trail – Water Features

Eventually, we were hiking parallel to a small stream that flows into Meadow Run. The stream moves through a pretty gorge area with a few small waterfalls. After that, we encountered a few posts that read “No Camping.” We believe these are old and can be disregarded. There’s nothing about this area being closed to camping on Shenandoah’s website, and a couple campsites are scattered around.

From here, the trail crosses the stream and follows it for a good ways. About 0.3 miles after the gorge area, we came to a stunning swimming hole. We relaxed for a bit, watching the stream gently cascade into the pool. We weren’t prepared to go swimming, but a couple of other hikers were. I would love to come back sometime to take a dip.

After leaving the swimming hole, the trail became a bit harder to follow, as there was a side trail leading to an old shelter. The shelter was removed when the area became a wilderness, but we found some signs pointing to its former site. We made sure to look for the blue blazes, and once we were on the right track we quickly made it to the next intersection. Riprap Trail continues to the boundary of Shenandoah NP, but we turned left onto Wildcat Ridge Trail to head back to the parking lot.

Wildcat Ridge Trail

Crossing the stream one last time, we started to ascend. While Wildcat Ridge trail isn’t too long, it has the steepest elevation gain of the loop. We had a constant uphill climb, with a few switchbacks, for about 2.6 miles until we reached the intersection with the Appalachian Trail. There were a few views on the way, but nothing too impressive.

At the intersection of Wildcat Ridge Trail and the AT, we spotted an eastern cottontail rabbit – though we see them more frequently in our yard than while hiking. From there, it was a quick walk back to the parking lot. We climbed into the car and drove back to Big Meadows Lodge, where we had a delicious dinner as we watched the sun set.

This was a great hike, and we know we’ll be back again. Views and water features meant there was a lot to see along the way. We recommend doing the full loop if you can, but if not, Chimney Rock is worth a visit. I wish the loop was closer to where we live so we could hike it more easily.

Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail

Date: Saturday, June 22, 2019
Type: Loop dayhike
Total Distance: 9.6 miles (15.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2382 feet (726 m)
Time: 7 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
Crowds: Low to moderate
Water: Various streams, creeks, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Multiple views, wildflowers, waterfall, swimming holes
Notes: This route can be done clockwise or counterclockwise.
Directions to Wildcat Ridge Parking (mile marker 92): Google Maps Directions
Directions to Riprap Parking (mile marker 90): Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot, begin on blue-blazed Wildcat Ridge Trail. If you parked at the Riprap Parking Lot, start at the 2.8 mile trail direction after taking the short spur trail from the parking lot to the AT.
• 0.1 mi – Turn right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail
• 2.8 mi – Continue straight on the AT, past the intersection with the trail that leads to Riprap Parking Lot.
• 3.2 mi – Turn left onto Riprap Trail
• 3.9 mi – Calvary Rocks Viewpoint
• 4.3 mi – Chimney Rock Viewpoint
• 6.3 mi – Swimming hole
• 6.9 mi – Turn left onto Wildcat Ridge Trail
• 9.5 mi – Continue straight on Wildcat Ridge Trail at the intersection with the Appalachian Trail
• 9.6 mi – Back at Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot

Places

• Riprap Parking Lot | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 90
• Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 92
• Calvary Rocks Viewpoint | 38.1871442,-78.7732787
• Chimney Rock Viewpoint | 38.1865942, -78.7788787

Maps

• Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Riprap Area Road and Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Calvary Rocks (Summit Post)
• Chimney Rock (Summit Post)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Spring is a great time to go for a hike and see wildflowers in Shenandoah National Park. This time, we decided on a hike to Rapidan Camp in the Central District. The camp was a summer getaway for President Herbert Hoover between 1929 and 1933. It is also important as it helped initiate the construction of Skyline Drive.

In 1933, the Hoovers donated the land to Shenandoah National Park. It was later used as both a boy scout camp and federal retreat. In 2004, the National Park Service restored the camp and opened it to the public. From late spring to fall, the park offers a guided tour of the area (reservations are required). You can also visit Rapidan Camp on your own, though you won’t be able to get into some of the buildings.

A network of trails provides access to the area. The shortest route is a 4.0 mile out and back hike along Mill Prong Trail. We generally prefer loops, so we decided on a longer 7.1 mile circuit that starts along Mill Prong Trail and returns on the Appalachian Trail.

This wasn’t our first visit to Rapidan Camp. We’d been there before on a backpacking trip (the same trail, but in the opposite direction). No camping is allowed within 0.5 miles of the area, and we had camped just outside of that perimeter. If you’re interested in backpacking, check out our trail map for campsite locations. We’ve also been meaning to backpack a longer route through Rapidan Camp from Jones Mountain, but haven’t gotten to it yet.

Milam Gap

Every year, Shenandoah National Park has a wildflower weekend, and this was the week after so we were hoping we’d see plenty of flowers. Mill Prong Trail begins across from a parking lot known as Milam Gap (near mile marker 53 on Skyline Drive). The lot was full, but we found a spot along the road. We crossed Skyline Drive and headed southbound on the Appalachian Trail. At the intersection with Mill Prong Trail, we turned left (though you could also get to Rapidan Camp by continuing on the AT). The trail started descending, and we spotted some geraniums.

There are three water crossings on the way to Rapidan Camp. We first crossed a stream that feeds into Mill Prong, the river that gives Mill Prong Trail its name. The water was decently high, but it was easy to cross. Afterwards, the stream flowed on our right until we crossed another small creek. Mill Prong Trail ends shortly after, and we took a slight right onto Mill Prong Horse Trail.

Soon, two large horses headed toward us. Mill Prong Horse Trail, if you couldn’t tell from the name, is a yellow-blazed trail, so horses are allowed. For all the hikes we’ve done in Shenandoah, this is the first time we actually saw people on horseback. We stepped off the trail to let them pass.

Finally we arrived at Big Rock Falls, where we crossed Mill Prong (the creek, not the trail). This is the last stream crossing, and it’s a bit harder to navigate than the others. The trail was decently crowded with a large group of backpackers, so we took our time. Big Rock Falls is impressive and makes for a good spot to take a break. About ten minutes after Big Rock Falls, we reached the gravel road that leads to Rapidan Camp.

Rapidan Camp

At the gravel road, we turned right, then immediately left, onto a path that goes into the heart of Rapidan Camp. The camp is situated where two streams – Laurel Prong and Mill Prong – join to form the Rapidan River. The area has excellent trout fishing, which is one feature that attracted the Hoovers. A man-made waterway, called Hemlock Run, flows through the camp, though there isn’t much water in it these days.

The camp originally comprised 15 buildings, but only three remain: Brown House, Creel Cabin, and the Prime Minister’s Cabin. Creel Cabin houses park employees, while the other two buildings have exhibits that visitors can explore. Brown House, the building where President Hoover stayed, was closed when we visited. The Prime Minister’s Cabin was open, so we checked that out. It was named for Ramsay MacDonald, the Prime Minister of Great Britain, who stayed at Rapidan in 1929.

Afterward, we explored the outside of Brown House. Looking at holes in the outer part of the roof, we realized the structure had been built around large trees. We thought it was pretty cool that nature had been incorporated into the design. First lady Lou Henry Hoover had wanted to build the camp with a low ecological footprint.

Brown House was closed until the following week, when tours of Rapidan Camp would begin for the season, but its porch made for a nice lunch spot. As we ate, a park volunteer chatted with us about the huge hemlock trees that once grew above the camp, keeping it cool in the summer. Sadly, those trees died in the 1990s due to an insect called the woolly adelgid. We wished we had the opportunity to take the tour to learn more, but at least we learned some history of the area by talking with the volunteer.

Laurel Prong Trail

After lunch, we continued on. Unfortunately, we went the wrong way onto Hemlock Run Trail which, naturally, follows Hemlock Run. At the end of the short 0.2 mile trail, we reached Laurel Dam. The “dam” is really two concrete posts that make a sluice gate. It was used to redirect water from Laurel Prong to the man-made Hemlock Run, which travels through Rapidan Camp.

Once we realized our mistake, we headed back to Rapidan and found the correct path to Laurel Prong Horse Trail – a gravel road that eventually turned into a muddy path. We passed a side trail to Five Tents, the area where the first Rapidan Camp buildings were located. They were simple buildings with wooden floors and canvas tents above. We didn’t have time to check it out, but the main structures have long since been removed. Apparently items like electric fixtures and old fireplaces are still there, though.

Next, we reached the intersection of Laurel Prong Trail and Fork Mountain Horse Trail. The area has several campsites, and it’s where we stayed while backpacking a few years prior. This is about as close as you can pitch a tent to Rapidan Camp.

As we continued on Laurel Prong Trail, we started seeing many more wildflowers like showy orchid, pink lady slippers, Canadian mayflower, and bluets. There’s also a lot of mountain laurel, but it wasn’t quite flowering yet. We continued along a ridgeline, and saw more wildflowers like beautiful wild azalea.

As we admired the flora, Kristin said she felt a raindrop. I felt nothing. Then she said she heard thunder. I heard nothing. Five minutes later, I caught up to her – and I could feel and hear the approaching rain. Luckily we had rain jackets, because it started to pour and we had around three miles to go. We passed an intersection with Cat Knob trail and continued ascending.

Appalachian Trail

As the rain poured, we made it to the next intersection and turned right onto the Appalachian Trail. We started ascending to Hazeltop (3812′), the third highest peak in the park, and saw lots of trilliums growing. Some were already past their prime, but it was nice to see them. Near the peak of Hazeltop, the rain finally let up. A small side trail provides a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, so we decided to check it out. After returning to the main trail, it started pouring again.

The rain finally let up as we descended to Milam Gap on the AT. A backpacker had pitched his tent directly on top of some ferns along the trail. As a reminder, make sure to use an established campsite so you can “leave no trace.” As we returned to Milam Gap, we noticed it hadn’t rained there at all. You never know when or where a spring shower will hit!

Surrounded by nature and rich history, Rapidan Camp has a bit of everything. Whether you’re dayhiking or backpacking, it makes a great destination. The loop we took was even more interesting with the spring wildflowers. And in our experience, it hasn’t been too crowded compared to other popular hikes in the park.

Rapidan Camp Loop Trail

Date: Saturday, May 18, 2019
Type: Out and back dayhike
Total Distance: 7.1 miles (11.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1405 feet (428 m)
Time: 6 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low to moderate
Water: Various streams and creeks along the way, Big Rock Falls
Highlights: History, Views, Wildflowers, Waterfall
Notes: This route can be done clockwise or counterclockwise. If camping, make sure you’re at least 0.5 miles from Rapidan Camp.
Directions to Milam Gap: Google Maps Directions (Near MM 53 on Skyline Drive)

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Milam Gap, cross Skyline Drive on the south side of the lot. You’ll be on the Appalachian Trail. In about 125 feet, turn left onto blue-blazed Mill Prong Trail. The trail will descend until you reach Rapidan Camp.
• 1.0 mi – After crossing a couple streams, Mill Prong Trail ends as it abuts the yellow-blazed Mill Prong Horse Trail. At the fork, turn right.
• 1.5 mi – Big Rock Falls, the last time you’ll cross Mill Prong
• 1.8 mi – Cross the gravel Camp Hoover Road. Slightly to the right is a gravel path that goes into the heart of Rapidan Camp and past The Creel. Explore as much as you like, then head west toward Laurel Prong Horse Trail. If you’re not sure which way to go, continue along Camp Hoover Road until you reach an intersection with Laurel Prong Horse Trail, which also looks like a road initially.
• 1.9 mi – On your right is a sign and a set of stairs leading up to Five Tents. Continue straight on yellow-blazed Laurel Prong Horse Trail (or check out Five Tents if you have time). The trail will start ascending around this point.
• 2.4 mi – Continue straight onto the blue-blazed Laurel Prong Trail. Laurel Prong will be the hardest part of the hike due to its ascent.
• 3.7 mi – At the fork, turn right to continue on Laurel Prong Trail. Cat Knob Trail will be to your left.
• 4.7 mi – Turn right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail.
• 5.1 mi – On the left, look for a short trail to a panoramic viewpoint that looks west. This is near the summit of Hazeltop. After this, you’ll start descending all the way back to Milam Gap.
• 7.1 mi – Return to the intersection with Mill Prong Trail. Continue straight on the AT, and cross Skyline Drive to return to Milam Gap.

Places

• Milam Gap Trailhead | 38.5031917,-78.4495831
• Rapidan Camp | 38.4870578,-78.4141389

Maps

• Rapidan Camp and Mill Prong Loop Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Rapidan Camp Tours (NPS)
• Rapidan Camp History (NPS)
• A Retreat Fit for a President (NPS)
• Rapidan Camp (Wikipedia)
• National Archives Camp Hoover (National Register of Historic Places)
• Historical Photo of The Hoovers On Porch (NPGallery)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Rapidan Camp Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We had just finished hiking Mount Scott, also in the southeast section of the park. It was an easy drive to Pinnacles Road, which intersects with East Rim Drive at Phantom Ship Overlook. Plaikni Falls was our next destination, 1.1 miles down Pinnacles Road.

Plaikni Falls Trail

The trail to Plaikni Falls is an easy 2-mile out and back hike. The trail, constructed in 2011, is mostly wheelchair accessible. The exception is the short section at the end which allows visitors to walk closer to the falls. The name “Plaikni” comes from a Klamath Native American word that means “from the high country.”

Rocks line the manicured path, and distinctive benches are placed periodically along the trail. Meandering through a forest, the trail passes a large rocky outcropping on the left. Red, yellow, and purple wildflowers were scattered along the trail. I was surprised by the plant diversity given how short the trail is. There were columbines, monkey flowers, orchids, bleeding hearts, and more!

As we approached the end of the trail, a stream flowed on our right. Upstream we saw the beautiful Plaikni Falls, where a few other groups enjoyed the scenery. After a brief wait, we had it all to ourselves for a few minutes. We were able to get close enough to the falls to feel drops of water, which was very refreshing. Late afternoon is the perfect time to photograph Plaikni Falls to avoid glare from the sun.

Although there were a few mosquitoes, particularly close to the water, this short hike has great payoff. The trail is wide and flat, so it’s easily accessible for people of all abilities. We usually prefer more rugged terrain, but this hike is well-maintained and culminates in a captivating waterfall.

Pinnacles Trail

After enjoying Plaikni Falls, we drove further south to Pinnacles Trail, at the end of Pinnacles Road. On the way, we stopped to check out Lost Creek Campground, which the National Park Service operates. The first-come, first-served primitive campsites cost $10 per night. It was very quiet, and we wished we had stayed there rather than Mazama Campground. The campground bathrooms (outhouses) are the only in the area, as Plaikni Falls and Pinnacles don’t have any facilities.

We parked in the small lot near Pinnacles Trail, along with a few other visitors. A sign details the geological formation of the nearby spires, some of which we could see from the parking lot. The spires, also called fossil fumaroles, were formed by volcanic gases and steam that were released through tubes in ash that covered the area. Over time, these tubes hardened and the ash surrounding them eroded, leaving the spires.

Although you can see some volcanic spires from the parking lot, a 0.8 mile out and back hike takes visitors along a rim overlooking Wheeler and Sand Creeks. Like Plaikni Falls, Pinnacles Trail is wheelchair accessible. Covered with gravel and sand, the trail is easy and flat.

Along the trail are several lookouts into the canyon, providing views of the pinnacles and Sand Creek. Clusters of pinnacles line the trail side of the canyon. Looking across to the other side are lone pinnacles amongst the trees. Some spires were fun (and difficult) to pick out from the trees! Afternoon is not an ideal time for photography; morning or midday might have provided better lighting.

At the end of the trail is a large stone structure which marks the historic eastern entrance to the park. The structure was built by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) in 1937 and the entrance was closed in 1973 due to disuse. We noticed how similar it looked to the north entrance.

Beyond that point, the trail becomes a forest road and continues into Fremont-Winema National Forest. After relaxing a moment in solitude, we turned around and headed back to the parking lot. This is a short and unique hike, especially for those interested in geology.

Places

• Plaikni Falls Trailhead | 42.907286, -122.0684791
• Pinnacles Trailhead | 42.849872, -122.0074557
• Lost Creek Campground | 42.8793819, -122.0369873

Links

• Plaikni Falls Trail (Crater Lake Institute)
• Crater Lake East Entrance (Oregon Hikers)

The post Plaikni Falls & Pinnacles Trails appeared first on KTNPBlog.

The average July rainfall in Crater Lake National Park is around one inch, the lowest of the year. So, it was just our luck that it was raining on our first few days in the park. We wanted to go backpacking in the northwestern section of the park (on Bald Crater Loop), but the rain and threat of thunderstorms put a stop to that. Instead, we decided on a 5.4 mile out-and-back dayhike to Boundary Springs.

Boundary Springs Trail is not a heavily used or well-known trail. The best way to access it is from the northern edge of the park in Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest. The trail leads to the headwaters of the 215-mile Rogue River, which starts in Crater Lake NP, Oregon. The source of the spring is snowmelt, not Crater Lake itself. The trail was a delight and one of the (pleasant) surprises of our trip. But it’s not well marked or widely publicized. A ranger we met later in the trip said she had hiked the trail recently, but hadn’t found the spring.

To Mount Mazama Viewpoint

Driving north from Mazama Campground on West Rim Drive, we were stopped by construction for 30 minutes. After we made it past the delay, we stopped at a few overlooks to photograph Crater Lake with Wizard Island. The overcast sky reflecting on the surface of the lake was stunning.

Passing the North Junction, we continued on North Entrance Road and stopped to check out the Pumice Desert. Only a few trees and wildflowers dot the barren landscape as Mt. Theilson looms in the distance. The soil felt squishy and strange with each step. We examined some rocks that had holes and were lighter than an average rock, but not as light as we imagined. Continuing, we left the park boundaries and turned left onto highway 230.

Along highway 230, in the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest, we found trailhead for Mount Mazama Viewpoint. Just off the road is a decent-sized parking lot and a pit toilet. We stopped to read a sign there that explained how the caldera, and later Crater Lake itself, formed after the eruption of Mount Mazama.

Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest

We tried to read the peeling trailhead sign while mosquitoes attacked us just feet from our car. We reserve insect repellent for those “absolutely necessary” situations, and within 10 minutes of starting the hike we applied some. Upper Rogue River Trail (1034) descends through a forest that had a fire in 2015. Many burned trees remained, and new seedlings had sprouted. Pumice was scattered on the forest floor, and we stopped to pick a few up to see how heavy they were.

After half a mile, the trail comes to a fork with a small wooden sign nailed to a tree. To the right, Upper Rogue River Trail continues. We headed left on Boundary Springs Trail (1057). The trails here are not well signed, so a quality map is a must. The trail continued down a hill and the Rogue River flowed on our right. Beautiful wildflowers grew on both sides of the trail.

At the bottom of the hill was a stream crossing. Kristin was a bit hesitant, but made it without any issue. As we ascended the trail we were rewarded with views of the Rogue River. We would follow the river upstream the rest of the way to Boundary Springs.

Fifteen minutes after the stream crossing, we reached a road. We were uncertain where to go, so we checked our Nat Geo map. The map showed that the trail should be to the right, across the road. So we turned right and crossed the Rogue River which flows underneath the road. On our left, we found the trail, next to another badly peeling sign which read “Rogue River.” Metal or carved wooden signs would be more functional than these.

Crater Lake National Park

We continued up the trail, which became rolling and narrow. A few sections of the trail had steep dropoffs. We saw other hikers for the first time, near a small stream crossing. One mile after crossing the road, we crossed into Crater Lake National Park.

The trail got lower and closer to the river, as the river widened. We noticed yellow flowers growing all over dead logs in the stream.

The trail descended, providing beautiful views of the widening river. We began to notice yellow flowers growing all over dead logs that floated in the water. Looking it up later, we learned that they were yellow monkeyflowers. We were here at the right time of year! Other wildflowers, like fireweed and bleeding heart, grew nearby.

As we progressed, we passed burnt areas from a recent fire, which dramatically changed the landscape. The Rogue River continued to widen, and flow more rapidly. Upstream we saw multiple waterfalls, which were partially obscured by trees.

The trail got muddy as we came upon a marshy meadow. I always celebrate discovering any marshy area since it means there’s a chance to see some unique wildflowers. And sure enough, there were bog orchids and clintonia wildflowers growing alongside the trail. We stopped, and I took way too many photos.

The river seemed to fork at this point, and the trail followed a smaller stream. Eventually, the small stream seemed to dry up and disappear. We wondered if the waterfall we had seen earlier was Boundary Springs, and were unsure of where to go.

Boundary Springs

Continuing, we came to a curious log embedded in the ground. The log was polished, like it was meant for something, but there was no sign on it. A narrow dirt trail ran to the left, while the trail we were on continued straight. We decided to check out the side trail, and we found part of the river that had split earlier.

The side trail wasn’t well defined, but we continued on. After about five minutes on the side trail, we found what we were looking for – Boundary Springs. We could see the start of the Rogue River pouring out of the earth.

We carefully made our way directly behind the spring. It made for a gorgeous view of the river, dotted with yellow wildflowers. We relaxed for a bit and enjoyed the sights and sounds of the spring. It’s very powerful to think about the beginnings of a huge river coming from this humble spot.

We headed back the way we came, and the mosquitoes began attacking us again. As we started north toward the parking lot, thick gray clouds appeared in front of us, and blue sky behind us. The skies started sprinkling, but it didn’t storm. Maybe we could have done that backpacking trip after all.

This was one of our favorite hikes in Crater Lake. It’s unique, and there are fewer visitors than most trails we hiked during our trip. It’s off the beaten path, but that only adds to the experience. Just be sure you have a map, since it isn’t well marked.

Boundary Springs Trail

Dates: Wednesday, July 26, 2017
Type: Out and Back Dayhike
Total Distance: 5.4 miles (8.7 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 883 feet (269 m)
Time: 3.5 hours which includes photo breaks
Trail Markings: A few peeling trail signs
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A few groups, otherwise had it to ourselves
Water: Rivers and streams along the trail
Highlights: Boundary Springs, wildflowers, marshy area, burnt areas, waterfalls
Note: You could also hike to Boundary Springs from the south, but it would take longer.
Directions to Mazama Viewpoint Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Mazama Viewpoint, take the Upper Rogue River Trail (1034). This trail starts inside Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest.
• 0.6 – At a poorly defined intersection, turn left onto Boundary Springs Trail (1057).
• 1.0 – You’ll come to a dirt road, Old Diamond Lake Road. There will be a stream to your right, perpendicular to the road and flowing under it. Go right onto the road for about 100 feet, and you’ll see the trail continue on your left.
• 1.6 – A sign indicates that you’ve entered Crater Lake National Park.
• 2.5 – An intersection with the trail that leads to Boundary Springs. There’s no trail sign as of 2017, just a polished wooden pole in the ground marking the intersection. Take a left here.
• 2.7 – You’ve arrived at Boundary Springs! Enjoy the peace, quiet, and beautiful scenery, then return the way you came.
• 5.4 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Mazama Viewpoint Trailhead | 43.0906366, -122.2239233
• Pumice Desert Overlook | 43.027926, -122.119328

Maps

• Boundary Springs Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Boundary Springs Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We were feeling a bit sad on our last full day in Redwood National and State Parks. But we were going to go out with a bang. Our main activity for the day was Boy Scout Tree Trail, a 5.6 mile out-and-back hike located in Jedediah Smith State Park.

The trail is gorgeous, and features many old growth redwood trees. A small waterfall, called Fern Falls, makes the turnaround point a scenic lunch spot. Near the end of the trail is Boy Scout Tree – two redwoods that have grown together, resembling the Boy Scout salute.

Howland Hill Road

Howland Hill Road leads to Boy Scout Tree Trail. The unpaved road bisects Jedediah Smith State Park and is a great scenic drive. Along the road are trailheads for Boy Scout Tree, Mill Creek, Nickerson Ranch, and Stout Grove trails. The narrow, picturesque road winds around enormous redwood trees. It was prettier and more well-maintained than we expected. Cars pulled to the side of the busy road so visitors could take photos.

After a couple miles on Howland Hill Road, we stopped at a small parking lot for the trail. There are no restrooms at the trailhead, so plan ahead. The parking lot can fill up quickly, as this is a popular hike. But when we arrived at noon, there were still spots available. We grabbed our packs and lunch, and set off into the woods.

Boy Scout Tree

Our hike took us through a beautiful redwood forest, with sunlight occasionally streaming in through the dense trees. The trail is easy to moderate, with some rolling hills and exposed roots. We crossed a bridge over a small trickling creek and stopped to take a selfie.

We crossed several other bridges, went under overhanging trees, and climbed stairs built into the trail. Even after being in the park for a week, we marveled at the size of the redwoods – they were some of the biggest we’d seen. Along the trail we waved to some of our old friends, the banana slugs.

Ahead, we spot a sign that reads “B.S. Tree.” It’s either the Boy Scout tree, or someone is playing a joke on us. The sign points to the right, up a steep, partly-eroded trail. About 100 feet into the trail, we reach Boy Scout tree, which has a small wooden label attached. Essentially it’s two gigantic trees fused together at the bottom. Its height made it difficult to photograph!

Fern Falls

After spending a few minutes at Boy Scout Tree, we returned to the main trail and continued hiking. Ten minutes later, we arrived at Fern Falls. The waterfall is nice, but it was the wrong time of the day to photograph it as the sun was shining directly on it. Fallen trees partially blocked our view of the falls.

Nearby was a log with a view of the falls, which doubled as a picnic bench, so we relaxed and ate some lunch. Groups of hikers came and left at a steady rate, exploring the waterfall, pools, and streams. After finishing my lunch, I wanted to explore. To my surprise, I saw some small fish swimming in the pools near the falls.

As I watched the fish swim around, my eye caught another creature – a salamander. There were actually a couple of them, but they were hard to see since they blended in so well. I watched them for awhile, and called Kristin over to take a look too. These were juvenile salamanders, who spend their life in the water. What exact species, I wasn’t sure, but there are eight different species of newts and salamanders in the area according to the park website.

After some more exploring, we headed back toward the trailhead. On the way, we saw someone pushing a stroller on the trail. That seems like a losing proposition with the roots and stairs, but to each their own.

Boy Scout Tree Trail is a well-maintained trail with large redwood trees. The falls at the end were a bit disappointing, though the fish and salamanders kind of made up for it. With that, our Redwood adventure was over, and our next stop would be Crater Lake National Park.

Boy Scout Tree Trail

Dates: July 23, 2017
Type: Out-and-back day hike
Total Distance: 5.6 miles (9.0 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1386 feet (423 m)
Time: 3 hours hiking, which includes lunch and photo breaks
Trail Markings: Sign pointing to Boy Scout Tree
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: We saw a lot of groups
Water: Fern Falls, streams
Highlights: Large redwood trees, wildlife, waterfall, streams
Directions to Boy Scout Tree Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Start the trail from the parking lot
• Mile 2.4 – A sign points to a short trail on the right. Walk about 300 feet to see Boy Scout Tree. Then go back to the main trail.
• Mile 2.9 – You’ve arrived at Fern Falls. A social trail appears to continue beyond the falls. Explore, eat lunch, just be you. Then go back the way you came.
• Mile 5.6 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Boy Scout Tree Trailhead | 41.7682991, -124.1128776
• Boy Scout Tree | 41.7823324,-124.1354714
• Fern Falls |41.7818276, -124.1354898

Maps

• Boy Scout Tree Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Boy Scout Tree Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Rose River in Shenandoah National Park has been on our to-do list for awhile.  Several attempts in the past floundered due to laziness or something coming up at the last minute.  We’d made it to Mathews Arm Campground for the weekend, so we took the opportunity to finally hike Rose River Loop.

The hike is located off Skyline Drive in Shenandoah’s Central District, across from Big Meadows Campground.  We decided to make a 5.1 mile loop that included Dark Hollow Falls.  We prefer loops over out-and-backs because we don’t have to hike a section more than once.  Dark Hollow Falls is a spectacular waterfall, and a short hike from Skyline Drive.  Naturally, it was very crowded when we visited.

Fisher’s Gap

There were two options for parking:  Fisher’s Gap or Dark Hollow Falls trailhead.  Fisher’s Gap is located around mile marker 49.5 on Skyline Drive; Dark Hollow Falls is at 50.5.  We decided on Fisher’s Gap, because it was the first parking lot we encountered as we drove south from Mathew’s Arm Campground.  We also figured Dark Hollow Falls parking lot would be full, since that section of trail is very popular (spoiler alert: it was).  For that reason I’d recommend parking at Fisher’s Gap.

We turned onto a dirt road near mile marker 49.5. The small parking lot was full, but this wasn’t Fisher’s Gap. It was access to Red Gate Fire Road, though a gate blocks vehicular access further in.  Next to it is Fisher’s Gap Overlook, a paved parking area that had plenty of available spots.  After parking, we walked south toward Skyline Drive, passing the Appalachian Trail on our right.  When we reached Skyline Drive we saw the crosswalk for Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail, where our hike began.

Horse Trail to Big Meadows

We walked on the right shoulder of Skyline Drive, and then headed uphill on the yellow-blazed Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Though we didn’t see any horses nor any…evidence of horses.  Only other hikers.  This trail leads to Big Meadows Campground in 1.4 miles, where we would cross Skyline Drive, then hike to Dark Hollow Falls.  After the waterfall, we would hike Rose River Trail, which leads back to Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap.

Trees surrounded us as we gradually ascended Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail. The sunlight streaming through the trees both relaxed and energized us. As we hiked, we noticed stone trail markers every ½ mile, which we assume are for horseback riders.

As we approached Big Meadows Campground, two deer – a doe and fawn – crashed through the underbrush.  We must have startled them, because once they spotted us, they slowed down and started browsing for food by the trail.  They’d clearly become accustomed to people. After observing the deer at a safe distance and giving them the right of way, we continued on.

The trail continued until we reached a stream crossing.  While easy for horses to cross, it’s a bit harder for humans.  Looking to our left we saw a bridge further downstream.  We followed the creek bank to the bridge, but we realized we didn’t need to cross it. If we had waded through the stream crossing, our route would have immediately turned left and then taken another left across the bridge, to where we now stood. So we were on Story of the Forest trail.

As we walked, Hogcamp Branch flowed on our right. It would later join with other streams and become Dark Hollow Falls.  A short 0.2 mile hike later, we got to Skyline Drive.  Across the road we saw the Dark Hollow Falls parking lot, jam-packed with cars.  We had seen a few hikers so far, but starting here we’d see more than we could count until we passed Dark Hollow Falls.

Dark Hollow Falls Trail

We crossed Skyline Drive and turned left onto blue-blazed Dark Hollow Falls Trail, which rapidly descends.  The entire way down to the main waterfall, 0.7 miles, Hogcamp Branch runs to our right.  There are a few places that are worth a stop and/or photo on the way down, with small cascades or swimming holes.  But we had to share them with lots of visitors, not that we expected to have it all to ourselves.

The trail was wet and muddy from rain the previous day.  It’s also rocky and steep in places, but otherwise manageable.  The return trip would be more of a challenge due to the incline.  We reached the upper falls overlook, and looked out over the wooden fence.  Many visitors trudged past the upper falls, without stopping.  They are worth a look, but you can get closer to the even more dramatic lower falls.

Dark Hollow Falls flows down multiple levels over 70 vertical feet.  It’s been a rainy summer this year (2018), so the volume of water was impressive.  We snapped some photos from a distance as we waited…and waited…for other groups to take their close-ups and selfies. Finally it was our turn, so we quickly captured the falls before another park visitor could jump in front of us.

Before long, we moved on and were glad to leave the bulk of people behind.  We wanted to eat lunch, but it definitely would not be at Dark Hollow Falls.  Most hikers retrace their steps here and go back up Dark Hollow Falls Trail.  Not us, we continue going down and Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends at Rose River Fire Road.  At the fire road, we turned right and crossed Hogcamp Branch via a bridge.

As we crossed the bridge, we saw a peaceful waterfall on the right.  It seemed like a nice place to stop and eat lunch.  But as we sat down, a large and boisterous group of boy scouts stopped to take a break here, too.  So we left, in search of a quieter lunch spot.  Right after the bridge, we turned left onto Rose River Loop Trail.  For a shorter loop from Fisher’s Gap, we could have also made a route with Rose River Loop Trail and Rose River Fire Road, though this route skips Dark Hollow Falls.

Rose River Loop Trail

We continued our descent with Hogcamp Branch on our left. Rose River Loop Trail is less steep than Dark Hollow Falls Trail, but slick rock, mud, and water made the trail slippery.  Trekking poles were helpful on this section.  The trail was less crowded than Dark Hollow Falls, though we ran into a few other groups.

Soon we found what we were looking for: a large rock by the stream where we could have lunch.  We took a break and enjoyed the sounds of the water rushing by as we ate.  Once satiated, we continued our hike along the gurgling stream. There are no big waterfalls on this section, but it’s pleasant with small waterfalls and cascades. 

0.8 miles after Rose River Fire Road, we reached a picturesque bridge that goes across Hogcamp Branch.  Soon after the bridge, we ran into an intermittent stream that we need to cross. Since there had been so much rain, this stream was flowing strong, but we got across without any trouble.

At this point, the trail finally starts to head uphill with Rose River on our right.  The initial incline was a bit of a shock to our systems and we were slow to make progress.  But once in a rhythm, we made good time up to Rose River Falls.  The waterfall itself is 67 feet high, only three feet less than Dark Hollow Falls.  To my eyes though, it’s not as impressive.  At the base of the falls were a few people that had hiked off trail and were outrageously loud and screaming. It diminished our enjoyment of the waterfall a bit.  We would have lingered more if it weren’t for them.  We continued our uphill hike and eventually left behind Rose River when the trail veered west.

After 0.7 miles, we reached an intersection and were back on Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Only half a mile to go.  We passed an older couple going the opposite way.  They asked if it was worth it.  Assuming they meant Rose River Falls, I said definitely!  I silently hoped the loud people would be gone by the time they got there.

Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail intersects with Rose River Fire Road.  We crossed the road, the horse trail continuing on the other side.  And a few minutes later we were back where we started on Skyline Drive. 

The waterfalls, which appear on many “best of” lists, are highlights of Shenandoah National Park.  Dark Hollow Falls is more impressive than Rose River Falls, in my opinion.  Just know you won’t have it all to yourself.

Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trails

Dates: September 29, 2018
Type: Loop
Total Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1675 feet (511 m)
Time: 4.5 hours hiking which includes lunch, photography and rest breaks
Trail Markings: Well marked with yellow and blue blazes
Difficulty: Moderate, good elevation gain
Crowds:  Lots of people on Dark Hollow Falls Trail, and a moderate number on the other trails
Water: Plenty of streams, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Waterfalls, streams, wildlife
Directions to Fisher’s Gap Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot, head southwest, toward Skyline Drive.  There is a crosswalk, but don’t cross it.  Head right, uphill on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail.
• Mile 1.2 – You’ll see a stream crossing straight ahead.  If the stream is low, cross it and turn left on Story of the Forest Trail, then cross a bridge.  If the stream is too high, turn left and take the social trail to the same bridge.  You’ll be on Story of the Forest Trail without needing to cross the stream.  Go south on the trail, which is blue-blazed.
• Mile 1.3 – Story of the Forest trail turns right here, across a stone bridge.  You’ll go straight onto Story of the Forest/Dark Hollow Connector Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – Continue straight, going across Skyline Drive.  You’ll see the parking lot for Dark Hollow Falls and the Trailhead sign.  Turn left onto Dark Hollow Falls Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Upper Dark Hollow Falls Viewpoint
• Mile 2.1 – Lower Dark Hollow Falls
• Mile 2.2 – Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends; turn right onto Rose River Fire Road, which is yellow-blazed.  Head right over a bridge with another waterfall on your right.  Immediately after the bridge, turn left onto the blue-blazed Rose River Loop Trail. 
• Mile 3.7 – Rose River Falls
• Mile 4.4 – Continue straight on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 4.9 – Cross Rose River Fire Road and continue on Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 5.1 – Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot

Places

• Fisher’s Gap Overlook Parking Lot | 38.53409, -78.42457 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 49.5
• Dark Hollow Falls Parking Lot | 38.51967, -78.43136 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 50.5
• Dark Hollow Falls | 8.51873,-78.43174
• Rose River Falls | 38.53151,-78.41709
• Big Meadows Campground | 38.52815,-78.43880 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 51

Maps

• Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Big Meadows Campground Map (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Dark Hollow Falls and Rose River Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Type: 2-day Backpacking Lollipop Loop
Distance: Overall 11.6 miles (18.7 km).  Day 1 – 5.5 miles (8.9 km).  Day 2 – 6.1 miles (9.8 km).
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3,296 feet (1,005 m)
Net Elevation Gain/Loss: 2,624 feet (800 m)
Date Visited: May 12, 2018 – May 13, 2018
Overall Run & Beecher Ridge Trail Map (KTNP)

I had been wanting to check out Overall Run Falls in Shenandoah National Park for some time.  At 93 feet, Overall Run Falls is the highest waterfall in the park, but you don’t hear as much about it as other waterfalls like Dark Hollow Falls or White Oak Canyon.  So on a warm spring day, we went to see for ourselves.  We planned for a one-night backpacking trip to see the falls and make a lollipop loop with Overall Run and Heiskell Hollow Trail.  Our plans changed slightly during the hike, and we returned on Beecher Ridge Trail instead of Heiskell Hollow Trail, creating an 11.6 mi lollipop.  Either way, the route has the benefit of being in the Shenandoah’s Northern District – the closest one to the DC area and our house!  The route is also near Mathews Arm Campground, where we’ve stayed plenty of times.

Our plans in place, we drove to a small parking lot near Hogback Overlook at mile marker 21 on Skyline Drive.  We managed to grab the last parking spot there.  We wanted to eat a quick lunch before starting our hike, but we were immediately swarmed by small bugs.  K was content to sit on a rock while she ate, but the bugs annoyed me so much I chose to eat in the car.

Day 1 – Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail

Once ready, we set out south on the Appalachian Trail.  We would only be on the AT for about 0.3 miles before heading onto Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  The trees near the trailhead were still pretty bare, which was surprising since we visited in mid-May.  As the trail descended the trees became fuller and the wildflowers more scarce.

The AT was easy going, and in no time, we turned right onto Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  We would be on this trail until it split into two separate trails, Tuscarora and Overall Run.  The sun shone, and we made good progress as we continued to descend.  I knew the next day would be a quad buster and pretty much all uphill.  There weren’t many other hikers on this trail, which was surprising considering the parking lot at Hogsback was full.

We passed an intersection with Traces Trail, and more colorful wildflowers appeared.  I’ve always enjoyed hiking in the spring and seeing wildflowers like geraniums, violets, wild azalea, and orchids.  We pass over a couple small, probably intermittent, streams.  Near one stream are a few budding false hellebore wildflowers.  Suddenly, we heard something in the woods nearby.  Black bears are common here, but it turned out to be just a deer.

The trail continued until we passed Mathews Arm Trail on our left, which leads to Mathews Arm Campground.  We starting to see more hikers since the campground is so close.  In fact, Mathews Arm trailhead is closer to Overall Run Falls than Hogback Overlook parking lot is.  Soon we saw our first falls – not Overall Run Falls, but a smaller group of falls.  We decided to take a break and enjoy the views, even though many day hikers and a few backpackers were milling around too.

Pressing on, we quickly arrived at Overall Run Falls.  This is the longest waterfall in the park.  And?  It was pretty, but other waterfalls in the park are more impressive.  Perhaps it would be more eye-catching after a big rain.  Tree cover partially obstructed our view, which is already a good distance from the falls, and the base of the waterfall is hidden from view.  But don’t let that dissuade you; I still recommend checking it out.  Near the falls are several overlooks, including a picturesque view of the Massanutten Mountains to the west.

There are signs indicating that you shouldn’t camp on the falls side of the trail.  You could camp on the other side, though we didn’t notice any established campsites on that section of trail, and with all the people, I don’t think it would be particularly peaceful.  Immediately after we passed the sign saying that you could camp again on either side, we saw a couple hammock camping.  It’s possible they had a view of the falls from where they were, but it was hard to tell.  We weren’t ready to put up our tent yet, so we kept going.  We saw a few established campsites (check them out on the map below), but we planned to camp along Overall Run Trail.

Down we went, as the trail continued to descend.  Overall Run flows right next to and over the trail, so we had two easy stream crossings.  We came upon a family backpacking with two children who were taking a break on the side of the trail.  They looked exhausted from the uphill climb.  We commiserated, knowing we would ascend the next day.  We mentioned a nice established campsite that we had passed, waved goodbye, and continued on.

Day 1 – Overall Run Trail

Saying goodbye to Tuscarora Trail as it headed northwest, we continued onto Overall Run Trail.  Shenandoah’s website mentions a side trail to some cascades after Tuscarora Trail splits.  We weren’t sure what to expect, but the word “cascades” intrigued us.  So when we came to a junction – on our right was an established campsite; on our left, a social trail – we took the social trail in search of the cascades.

The cascades, it turns out, are a series of waterfalls, slides, and swimming holes.  It was a hot, muggy, buggy, humid day and I wanted to dive in.  There were a lot of visitors, as an access trail called Thompson Hollow leads there after about 1.1 miles.  My mind wrestled with itself as I thought about taking a dip, because we probably should keep going and make camp.  On the other hand, the water was so inviting with its sparkly blue-green tint.  We settled for walking alongside the flowing water past a series of scenic pools.  In addition to being pressed for time, there were other swimmers in the pools, so we just climbed on the rocks and enjoyed the water features before hiking back onto Overall Run Trail to find a campsite.  We discussed returning to the cascades after setting up camp if we had time (we didn’t).

The nearby campsite was an option, but we wanted more privacy.  I scouted ahead of K, onto Overall/Beecher Connector Trail where I found a site, but it was already occupied.  So we located another site near the end of Overall Run Trail.  It was close enough to Overall Run that we had a good source of water, and was far enough off the trail to offer some privacy.  We set up our tent, ate dinner, then went in search of the perfect branch to hang our bear bag.  We always seem to have trouble finding a branch that’s high enough, long enough, and thick enough to support our food and scented items, but we did the best we could.  We went to sleep with heat lightning illuminating the sky.

Day 2 – Beecher Ridge Trail

Drip…drip…drip…dripdrip…dripdripdripdrip…woooshhhh!!!  Around 1am, we were awakened to the sounds of a torrential rain storm.  The forecast had said there was a small chance, but we had risked it.  Turns out, we had lost our bet with the weather.  Luckily, while there was lightning, it was far away.  I love hearing the sound of rain as I fall asleep, but I’m not a big fan of hiking in the rain.  Our tent kept us (and our gear) cozy and dry though.  It poured for the rest of the night, until around 6am.  We decided that we’d sleep for only an hour or so and then get up and go.  But we were awakened again, by more rain.  So we were lazy and decided to wait it out.

We woke up again around 9am, which is the middle of the day for some backpackers, but at least the rain had stopped again.  We quickly made oatmeal for breakfast and packed up.  Our tent left a nice dry patch where it had been.  Thankfully, we were dry, but the world around us was soaked.  And this would be the day with a lot of elevation gain, compared to the elevation loss we had the previous day.  There were fewer bugs due to the rain (at least initially), and it had gotten cooler.  But it had also become even more humid, and the bugs would be back before we knew it.

Our initial plan was to hike south on Beecher Ridge Trail, until the intersection with Heiskell Hollow Trail, where we would head east.  But since we got a later start than intended, we decided to cut off a couple miles and hike back east on Beecher Ridge Trail.  We didn’t know whether it would start storming again or not.  The sun had come out just in time for our first major incline of the trip.

Beecher Ridge Trail is pretty much all uphill, and it was again buggy, muggy, and humid.  Even with the uphill, we were making good time.  We stopped for a break and were immediately swarmed by gnats.  We could only stand around for a bit before we had to start moving again to get away from the bugs.  The trail was very green, narrow in some places, and almost overgrown.  Not a trail that sees a lot of use.  Since the previous day at the cascades, we hadn’t seen anyone yet.  Beecher Ridge Trail is also an area that is supposed to have a large concentration of black bears.  We didn’t see any, but we kept an eye out.

There is no rest for the incline on this trail, and it wasn’t until we reached the intersection with Matthews Arm Trail that we had any relief.  A ton of people (and thankfully, fewer insects) streamed past us on Matthews Arm Trail as we took a quick break.  This portion of trail leads to Overall Run Falls, so we weren’t surprised – in fact, the falls were probably more spectacular after the previous night’s storm.

Continuing on, we turned left on Matthew’s Arm Trail to see what we thought were black and orange butterflies dancing close to us.  As we stop and watch, we realized that they were actually birds!  They were beautiful, and we think they were American Redstarts, but it’s hard to know for sure.  They were gone before we knew it, so I couldn’t get a photo.  We continued on, and crossed Overall Run, where the rain had caused the stream to swell up and inundate the trail.  We decided it was a good spot to filter some water since I was running low.

The intersection with Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail came, and we had completed the main loop.  Heading right, there was – only – a very long incline over 2.4 miles to get back to our car.  I don’t mind doing the incline last in a trip, but I prefer hikes where you get the incline over with first.  We make it back to our car, which was wet and muddy from the downpour.  We were starving, so we headed to Sperryville to grab a burger at Headmaster’s Pub.  The chipotle mayo there is amazing.  I could drink it.  As we sat there gorging on burgers and fries, the sky opened up and poured.  We had finished the hike just in time!

Overall, the hike was very enjoyable and made for a nice 1-night backpacking trip.  It had some special waterfalls, inviting swimming holes, and beautiful views.  Someday we’ll make it back and do Heiskell Hollow Trail too.  But for now, we checked off somewhere I’d been wanting to see for awhile.

Overall Run & Beecher Ridge Trails
Dates: We did this backpacking trip from May 12, 2018 to May 13, 2018
Type: Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 11.6 miles (18.7 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3,296 feet (1,005 m)
Net Elevation Gain/Loss: 2,624 feet (800 m)

• Day 1 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 5.5 miles (8.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 371 feet (113 m) Gain, 2969 feet (905 m) Loss
  • Time: 4.5 hours hiking including occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A site along Overall Run Trail
• Day 2 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 6.1 miles (9.8 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 2924 feet (891 m) Gain, 327 feet (100 m) Loss
  • Time: 5 hours hiking including lunch and rest breaks

Trail Markings: Well-marked with yellow, blue, and white blazes depending on the trail type
Difficulty: Moderate, decent elevation gain but otherwise not too bad
Crowds:  Lots of people near Overall Run and Mathews Arm, otherwise only saw a few groups.
Water: Plenty of streams, waterfalls, swimming pools
Directions to Overall Run Trail Parking: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the small parking lot near Hogback Overlook, head southwest on the white blazed Appalachian Trail.  The trail will ascend slightly, then descend.
• Mile 0.4 – Turn right onto the blue blazed Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.
• Mile 1.0 – Pass Traces Trail on your left.  Bear right to stay on Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.
• Mile 2.6 – Pass Mathews Arm Trail on your left.  Continue straight on Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  A small group of waterfalls is on the left after about 1,000 feet.
• Mile 3.0 – On your left is Overall Run Falls!  Enjoy from afar.
• Mile 4.9 – You’ve reached the end of Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  Continue straight onto Overall Run Trail (still blue blazed).
• Mile 5.0 – To the left, a social trail leads away from Overall Run Trail.  Check out the cascades, a series of waterfalls and swimming holes.  When you’re finished, head back out the same way to Overall Run Trail.  Continue on Overall Run Trail and look for a campsite along the next 0.6 miles.
• Mile 5.6 – Overall Run Trail ends; turn left onto the Overall-Beecher Connector Trail.
• Mile 6.3 – The trail runs into the yellow blazed Beecher Ridge Trail.  Yellow blazes means the trail is shared with horses.  Take the left side of Beecher Ridge Trail, which starts gaining elevation.  Beecher Ridge is supposed to have a high concentration of black bears, so stay alert and make noise!
• Mile 8.6 – Beecher Ridge Trail ends; turn left onto Matthews Arm Trail.
• Mile 9.0 – The loop is complete; turn right onto blue blazed Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail, which you were on the previous day.
• Mile 10.6 – Stay left to continue on Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.
• Mile 11.2 – Turn left onto the white blazed Appalachian Trail.
• Mile 11.6 – Back at the parking lot.

Highlights: Waterfalls, streams, wildlife, views

Places:
Hogsback Overlook Parking Lot | 38.7612, -78.2822
Overall Run Falls | 38.78335, -78.29449
Mathews Arm Campground | Rileyville, VA 22650
Headmaster’s Pub | 12018 Lee Hwy, Sperryville, VA 22740

Maps:
Overall Run & Beecher Ridge Trail Map (KTNP)
Mathews Arm Area Map (NPS)

Links:
Shenandoah Overall Run and Beecher Ridge Trip Guide (NPS)
Shenandoah Backcountry Regulations (NPS)
Shenandoah Backcountry Planning (NPS)

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