Once again it was spring break, and time to explore our national parks. This time, we were headed to Utah. Most of our time would be spent in Arches National Park, with a couple days in Canyonlands. Based on flight cost and arrival time, we decided to fly into Grand Junction, Colorado and drive almost two hours to Moab, Utah. We planned to spend our first two nights at Devils Garden Campground, the only developed campground in Arches National Park.

Like most campgrounds in national parks, Devils Garden is very popular, so we researched and made a list of preferred sites ahead of time. Sites in the high teens and low 20s have very good views, but more sun and wind exposure. Sites in the 40s and 50s have fewer scenic views, but more shade and wind protection.

We were particularly interested in campsites that have better views. The moment the sites became available six months ahead of our visit, we logged into Recreation.gov to book. Campsites go quick – we got one of our top choices (site #24), but we would’ve been happy with any site.

Getting There

Our flight arrived in Grand Junction at 10 a.m., giving us plenty of time to drive into Moab. As we flew in, the mountains and mesa that surround the city were covered in snow. Colorado National Monument is close by, and we made a mental note to check it out someday. After picking up our rental car, we stopped at Walmart and REI for supplies.

We decided to take a longer scenic route to Moab via UT-128, as recommended by the car rental agency, rather than I-70. The snow-capped La Sal Mountains appeared intermittently throughout the trip. Afterwards, we passed by the creepy ghost town of Cisco. Stepping on the gas, we crossed the Colorado River on Dewey Suspension Bridge, and followed the river into Moab.

Our car weaved between red mesas, colorful mountains, spires, and other picturesque formations. All the colors, shapes, and textures created amazing views with the La Sals in the background. There were many pull-offs, so we stopped a few times to take photos. We also carefully watched for cyclists around blind curves. Eventually, we crossed the Colorado River again, passed Moab, and arrived at Arches National Park.

Entering Arches National Park

Cars were backed up at the park entrance, which seems to happen often. Thankfully, it was late afternoon and other visitors were leaving, so it only took five minutes to enter. We went to the visitor center right away to get water. It had a slight chlorine taste, but we wanted to make sure we had enough (and it’s free). We’d be back at the visitor center the following day to book Fiery Furnace permits and learn about the geology of the area.

Devils Garden Campground is located at the opposite end of Arches NP, so we essentially had to drive through the entire park (18 miles) to get there. We really enjoyed the drive, which was like a mini-orientation. As the road ascended, we spotted well-known rock formations like the Three Gossips. We stopped for a quick 0.3 mile walk around Balanced Rock, which was interesting to observe from different angles.

Devils Garden Campground

In the early 1920s, an immigrant prospector named Alexander Ringhoffer explored Klondike Bluffs, a rugged area with fins and arches in what is now the west side of Arches National Park. When Arches was designated as a national monument in 1929, the Klondike Bluffs area was initially left out. Interestingly, Ringhoffer originally called this section Devils Garden, but that name was transposed onto the area we now know as Devils Garden.

Finally, we reached the campground at the end of the main park road. It looked just like the photos (that isn’t always the case). Near the entrance, we saw the host cabin where firewood was available, but the hosts were away. On the way to our site, we ran into the hosts and chatted with them. Later, they would bring by firewood ($5/bundle) and newspaper for kindling.

Arriving at our campsite, we remembered our conversation months earlier about all the site variables – views vs wind protection vs privacy. We had opted for views, and our site delivered. The nearby rock formations and La Sal Mountains in the distance were exactly the vibe we wanted. Now for the downside – it was very windy, around 20 mph with stronger gusts.

We organized our gear, and starting cooking a dinner of hotdogs with peppers, onions, and Old Bay seasoning. It took many attempts to start a fire due to the wind, but we got it going eventually. After dinner, we started exploring the campground. We made sure not to step on the delicate cryptobiotic soil, which was everywhere. This soil contains microorganisms and is essential to the health of the local ecosystem since it helps limit erosion and retain water.

Across the road from our campsite was a path to the campground amphitheater. And beyond that was our first arch – Skyline Arch. Scrambling up and around rocks and boulders, we found a path to get closer to it. It was a lot of fun to take photos of (and with) the arch. Stars were visible at 8:15 p.m., even though the sky had been overcast earlier. Arches NP often has a clear night sky, and we spotted two constellations – Orion and the Big Dipper.

Exhausted, we went back to our campsite and crashed. Around midnight, our next door neighbors were being a bit loud, but we talked to them and they quieted down. We felt bad, as they had been up celebrating something, but we appreciated it. After that, the campground was nice and quiet, so we got a good nights’ sleep.

The Next Day – More Adventures

In the morning, we woke up to a cool, partly cloudy day, which slowly warmed up. We got breakfast, and scared off some birds (probably crows or ravens) so they wouldn’t get into our gear and food. Next, we returned to the visitor center to get permits for Fiery Furnace, then hiked to Tower Arch. Later that afternoon, we headed back to the campground to hike the route to Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arches. The trail passes through the campground, so it was convenient to do while staying there.

The trail was fun, but the weather was becoming increasingly windy, foreshadowing what happened when we arrived back at our campsite. Our tent had blown free of half its stakes, and the poles were bending considerably. Thankfully, we were able to wrangle everything and prevent it from blowing away. If we had gotten there a few minutes later though, who knows what would have happened. If we stay at a similarly exposed site next time, we would secure the tent with some rocks. This was the tradeoff for those views we wanted.

After the mishap with our tent, we decided to sleep in our car. It was chilly, but our double quilt kept us fairly warm (though individual sleeping bags would have been better in this situation). In the morning, the wind had died down. It had been our last night in the campground, so we packed up and headed to Devils Garden Trail, a popular nearby hike.

Since Arches tends to have excellent conditions for stargazing, I had really wanted to do some night photography. In the end, I only took a few photos, due to the wind and cold nighttime temperature.

Even with a few weather-related complaints, we really enjoyed staying at Devils Garden Campground and highly recommend it. It’s one of our favorite campgrounds so far. And the location is perfect – many hikes are close by, and you don’t have to wait in line to enter the park every day. Just…don’t leave a backpacking tent on an exposed site during a very windy day without securing it further.

Devils Garden Campground | 51 Campsites

Dates Visited: March 24 – 26, 2018
Location: 18 miles from the park’s main entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities:  Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush/Vault Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling| Firewood for Sale
Dates Open: Year Round (with reduced availability in winter)
Prices: $25/night for individual tent campsite | $75-$250/night for group campsite depending on number of campers
Reservations: All sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. From November to February, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Views, Located in the Park, Skyline Arch
Best Sites: The sites on the north and east sides of the campground, with numbers in the 10s and 20s, typically have better views and are more exposed to the elements. Sites in the south of the campground, numbered in the 40s and 50s, have more rock formations for wind protection and privacy. For the best views check out sites 18, 20, 21, 23, or 24. If you’re looking for a site that’s spacious, private, and near large rocks, look at 48, 50, or 51. But you can’t really go wrong with any site.
Notes: There are two group campsites and 49 individual sites. Check-out time is 10:00 am.

Places

• Devils Garden Campground | 38.7782749, -109.5860319
• Skyline Arch | 38.7782749, -109.5860319

Maps

• Devils Garden Campground Map

Links

• Devils Garden Campground (NPS)
• Devils Garden Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)
• Cryptobiotic Soil Article (NPS)

Interactive Map

The post Devils Garden Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

The average July rainfall in Crater Lake National Park is around one inch, the lowest of the year. So, it was just our luck that it was raining on our first few days in the park. We wanted to go backpacking in the northwestern section of the park (on Bald Crater Loop), but the rain and threat of thunderstorms put a stop to that. Instead, we decided on a 5.4 mile out-and-back dayhike to Boundary Springs.

Boundary Springs Trail is not a heavily used or well-known trail. The best way to access it is from the northern edge of the park in Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest. The trail leads to the headwaters of the 215-mile Rogue River, which starts in Crater Lake NP, Oregon. The source of the spring is snowmelt, not Crater Lake itself. The trail was a delight and one of the (pleasant) surprises of our trip. But it’s not well marked or widely publicized. A ranger we met later in the trip said she had hiked the trail recently, but hadn’t found the spring.

To Mount Mazama Viewpoint

Driving north from Mazama Campground on West Rim Drive, we were stopped by construction for 30 minutes. After we made it past the delay, we stopped at a few overlooks to photograph Crater Lake with Wizard Island. The overcast sky reflecting on the surface of the lake was stunning.

Passing the North Junction, we continued on North Entrance Road and stopped to check out the Pumice Desert. Only a few trees and wildflowers dot the barren landscape as Mt. Theilson looms in the distance. The soil felt squishy and strange with each step. We examined some rocks that had holes and were lighter than an average rock, but not as light as we imagined. Continuing, we left the park boundaries and turned left onto highway 230.

Along highway 230, in the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest, we found trailhead for Mount Mazama Viewpoint. Just off the road is a decent-sized parking lot and a pit toilet. We stopped to read a sign there that explained how the caldera, and later Crater Lake itself, formed after the eruption of Mount Mazama.

Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest

We tried to read the peeling trailhead sign while mosquitoes attacked us just feet from our car. We reserve insect repellent for those “absolutely necessary” situations, and within 10 minutes of starting the hike we applied some. Upper Rogue River Trail (1034) descends through a forest that had a fire in 2015. Many burned trees remained, and new seedlings had sprouted. Pumice was scattered on the forest floor, and we stopped to pick a few up to see how heavy they were.

After half a mile, the trail comes to a fork with a small wooden sign nailed to a tree. To the right, Upper Rogue River Trail continues. We headed left on Boundary Springs Trail (1057). The trails here are not well signed, so a quality map is a must. The trail continued down a hill and the Rogue River flowed on our right. Beautiful wildflowers grew on both sides of the trail.

At the bottom of the hill was a stream crossing. Kristin was a bit hesitant, but made it without any issue. As we ascended the trail we were rewarded with views of the Rogue River. We would follow the river upstream the rest of the way to Boundary Springs.

Fifteen minutes after the stream crossing, we reached a road. We were uncertain where to go, so we checked our Nat Geo map. The map showed that the trail should be to the right, across the road. So we turned right and crossed the Rogue River which flows underneath the road. On our left, we found the trail, next to another badly peeling sign which read “Rogue River.” Metal or carved wooden signs would be more functional than these.

Crater Lake National Park

We continued up the trail, which became rolling and narrow. A few sections of the trail had steep dropoffs. We saw other hikers for the first time, near a small stream crossing. One mile after crossing the road, we crossed into Crater Lake National Park.

The trail got lower and closer to the river, as the river widened. We noticed yellow flowers growing all over dead logs in the stream.

The trail descended, providing beautiful views of the widening river. We began to notice yellow flowers growing all over dead logs that floated in the water. Looking it up later, we learned that they were yellow monkeyflowers. We were here at the right time of year! Other wildflowers, like fireweed and bleeding heart, grew nearby.

As we progressed, we passed burnt areas from a recent fire, which dramatically changed the landscape. The Rogue River continued to widen, and flow more rapidly. Upstream we saw multiple waterfalls, which were partially obscured by trees.

The trail got muddy as we came upon a marshy meadow. I always celebrate discovering any marshy area since it means there’s a chance to see some unique wildflowers. And sure enough, there were bog orchids and clintonia wildflowers growing alongside the trail. We stopped, and I took way too many photos.

The river seemed to fork at this point, and the trail followed a smaller stream. Eventually, the small stream seemed to dry up and disappear. We wondered if the waterfall we had seen earlier was Boundary Springs, and were unsure of where to go.

Boundary Springs

Continuing, we came to a curious log embedded in the ground. The log was polished, like it was meant for something, but there was no sign on it. A narrow dirt trail ran to the left, while the trail we were on continued straight. We decided to check out the side trail, and we found part of the river that had split earlier.

The side trail wasn’t well defined, but we continued on. After about five minutes on the side trail, we found what we were looking for – Boundary Springs. We could see the start of the Rogue River pouring out of the earth.

We carefully made our way directly behind the spring. It made for a gorgeous view of the river, dotted with yellow wildflowers. We relaxed for a bit and enjoyed the sights and sounds of the spring. It’s very powerful to think about the beginnings of a huge river coming from this humble spot.

We headed back the way we came, and the mosquitoes began attacking us again. As we started north toward the parking lot, thick gray clouds appeared in front of us, and blue sky behind us. The skies started sprinkling, but it didn’t storm. Maybe we could have done that backpacking trip after all.

This was one of our favorite hikes in Crater Lake. It’s unique, and there are fewer visitors than most trails we hiked during our trip. It’s off the beaten path, but that only adds to the experience. Just be sure you have a map, since it isn’t well marked.

Boundary Springs Trail

Dates: Wednesday, July 26, 2017
Type: Out and Back Dayhike
Total Distance: 5.4 miles (8.7 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 883 feet (269 m)
Time: 3.5 hours which includes photo breaks
Trail Markings: A few peeling trail signs
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A few groups, otherwise had it to ourselves
Water: Rivers and streams along the trail
Highlights: Boundary Springs, wildflowers, marshy area, burnt areas, waterfalls
Note: You could also hike to Boundary Springs from the south, but it would take longer.
Directions to Mazama Viewpoint Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Mazama Viewpoint, take the Upper Rogue River Trail (1034). This trail starts inside Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest.
• 0.6 – At a poorly defined intersection, turn left onto Boundary Springs Trail (1057).
• 1.0 – You’ll come to a dirt road, Old Diamond Lake Road. There will be a stream to your right, perpendicular to the road and flowing under it. Go right onto the road for about 100 feet, and you’ll see the trail continue on your left.
• 1.6 – A sign indicates that you’ve entered Crater Lake National Park.
• 2.5 – An intersection with the trail that leads to Boundary Springs. There’s no trail sign as of 2017, just a polished wooden pole in the ground marking the intersection. Take a left here.
• 2.7 – You’ve arrived at Boundary Springs! Enjoy the peace, quiet, and beautiful scenery, then return the way you came.
• 5.4 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Mazama Viewpoint Trailhead | 43.0906366, -122.2239233
• Pumice Desert Overlook | 43.027926, -122.119328

Maps

• Boundary Springs Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Boundary Springs Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We don’t usually hike in the winter. It’s cold (obviously), and daylight is lacking. Ice and downed trees often close off Skyline Drive, so you can’t access most of Shenandoah National Park. We had been trying to hike for weeks in Shenandoah, but the central district had been closed.

I’m not a fan of winter and was eager to put it behind me. Finally, with some warmer weekend weather, we found ourselves hiking Stony Man Trail. It was getting warmer out, so I insisted it was actually spring, but Kristin argued that it was still winter.

This easy 3.4 mile loop features multiple viewpoints, and makes for a great winter hike when daylight hours are limited. In fact, we hiked Stony Man the previous winter too.

To Skyland

Entering Skyline Drive through the Thorton Gap entrance, we headed south to Stony Man overlook at mile 38.5. The mountain gets its name from a rocky outcropping at the summit that supposedly looks like a man’s face. Since it was winter, we had a decent view of the rock formation. Then we headed further south to mile marker 41 (almost 42) for the trailhead.

Stony Man trailhead is located within the Skyland area. There’s a decent sized parking lot, especially compared to other trailheads, immediately after entering Skyland. Near the trailhead is an interpretive trail guide that can be purchased for $1 – we didn’t get it this time, but have previously. The guide isn’t essential, but explains some landmarks along the way. Numbered posts along the route match up with the guide.

Stony Man Trail

Our hike started on the Appalachian Trail, which is blazed white and blue. The trail starts off pretty easy, and we quickly saw evidence of a fire from 2017. Compared to last year though, the signs are quickly disappearing. We hiked 0.4 miles and came to a 4-way intersection, where Stony Man Trail is straight ahead and Stony Man Trail Connector is to the left. The AT continues right, but we went straight onto Stony Man Trail. We would do a short loop to Stony Man summit, then return to the AT.

At the intersection is a sign saying “No Pets,” but as we passed the sign we saw an off-leash dog. Shenandoah is a relatively dog-friendly park, but certain trails are not. Stony Man Trail splits after 420 feet, forming the loop. If you’re following the guide, the numbers increase if you go counter-clockwise. We opted for clockwise, for no particular reason.

There’s some elevation gain, but it’s nothing strenuous. We passed some boulders on our right, and took a short spur trail that leads to the summit after 0.4 miles. You’ll notice a hitching rail near the intersection. Horseback riders can summit the mountain using the adjacent Stony Man Horse Trail.

Shortly after passing underneath some gnarled trees, the summit trail deposited us onto a rocky viewpoint. Today was a breezy clear day, so we had views to the northwest. Below us, we could see Skyland Resort, and the overlook where we stopped along Skyline Drive. The summit wasn’t crowded; we snapped some photos, then headed back to the intersection.

We continued on to complete Stony Man Trail loop. The green moss, pines, and ferns really popped against the grays and browns of winter. Salamander research stations are scattered around the area on poles. We saw similar ones on Hawksbill Trail.

Once we completed Stony Man Trail loop, we turned left onto the Appalachian Trail as it descends. After about 15 minutes, we reached Little Stony Man viewpoint. It offers panoramic views, though Stony Man has better scenery. We enjoyed exploring the cliffs and taking some pictures.

Passamaquoddy Trail

After Little Stony Man, we came to a three-way intersection. We left the AT behind as we turned left onto Passamaquoddy Trail. George Pollock, the proprietor of Skyland Resort, named the trail when it was built in 1932. According to Henry Heatwoles, author of Guide to Shenandoah National Park and Skyline Drive, Pollock named it Passamaquoddy Trail because, he said, Passamaquoddy is a Maine Indian word meaning “abounding in pollock” (an abundant salt water fish on the Maine coast). So, a roundabout way of naming it after himself.

Passamaquoddy Trail is mostly level, though it ascends and descends gently. There’s a viewpoint about five minutes down the trail, which we think is worth seeing. Another hiker warned us that further on there were some icy spots. We thanked him and continued, reaching a slightly muddy icy area soon after. Gingerly stepping around the ice, we pressed on.

We came to some cliffs on the left that are often used for rock climbing. No one was climbing at the time, and there were signs indicating where climbers should avoid in order to protect the area. Further on, some boulder fields ran across the trail.

The next icy area was significantly different. Dripping icicles emerged from a rocky outcropping above us. Water on the ground had refrozen to form bubble-like ice formations, which I approached to take photos. In doing so, I slipped on the ice, my camera went flying and I whacked my knee on a rock…ouch. Thankfully my camera was okay, but my pride and knee suffered a bit. I had been arguing with Kristin that it was actually spring, but slipping on the ice made me realize winter wasn’t over yet.

At the end of the Passamaquoddy Trail is what I would describe as a hobbit house. It’s a building that has been set back in a mound. If you get close to the door and listen, you can hear running water behind it. This is Furnace Spring, which formerly supplied water to a copper smelter. These days, it’s the water supply for Skyland Resort. Some of the water flows under the trail and out the other side through a pipe.

Furnace Spring Horse Trail

Immediately after the spring, we turned left onto Furnace Spring Horse Trail. To the right is Skyland Fire Road, so the start of the Furnace Spring Horse Trail is gravelly and looks less like a trail. The trail loops to the north and behind the Furnace Spring building before heading south.

This section of the hike is the most strenuous. Furnace Spring Trail gains about 250 feet of elevation as it returns to the parking lot. Half a mile later, we reached an intersection with Stony Man Horse Trail. As we briefly turned left onto Stony Man Horse Trail, we could already see the parking lot where we began.

Stony Man is an enjoyable trail, which was a relief since some hikes we’ve been on lately have been kinda blah. Varied terrain and elevation with rocky outcroppings, mountains, and views enhance the experience. And despite the ice, it’s nice in winter. Regardless of the season, go on a clear day so you can appreciate the mountain views.

Stony Man Trail

Dates: March 17, 2019
Type: Out and Back Dayhike
Total Distance: 3.4 miles (5.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 849 feet (259 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including photo breaks
Trail Markings: Colored blazes and signs at intersections
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: Minimal, mostly at Stony Many Summit
Water: Furnace Spring
Highlights: Scenic views, history, spring, cliffs
Directions to Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the parking lot, head east to the white-blazed Appalachian Trail. There will be a trailhead sign and box with interpretive trail guides.
• Mile 0.4 – At the four-way intersection, continue straight onto blue-blazed Stony Man Trail.
• Mile 0.5 – Stony Man Trail forks here into a loop. You can go either way, but these directions assume clockwise. If you’re following the interpretive guide, go counter-clockwise.
• Mile 0.7 – Going clockwise (left), you’ve reached the intersection with Stony Man Summit Trail. Head left 300 feet for the overlook, then walk back and continue on the loop.
• Mile 1.0 – Back at the start of the loop. Turn left to go back toward the AT.
• Mile 1.1 – Back at the four-way intersection, turn left on the north-bound AT.
• Mile 1.8 – Pass Little Stony Man Cliffs.
• Mile 1.9 – Turn left onto Passamaquoddy Trail at the intersection.
• Mile 2.9 – At the end of Passamaquoddy Trail, you’ll pass Furnace Spring on your left, just before the next intersection. At the intersection, take a left onto yellow-blazed Furnace Spring Horse Trail. You’ll pass Furnace Spring again on your left.
• Mile 3.4 – At the intersection with Stony Man Horse Trail, take a left. After 100 feet, you’ll see the parking lot on your right.

Places

• Stony Man Trailhead near Skyland | 38.5930696, -78.3758508
• Stony Man Overlook | 38.6087966, -78.3675734

Maps

• Stony Man Trail Map (KTNP)
• Skyland Area Map (NPS)
• Little Stony Man Closure Area Map

Links

• Guide to SNP: Passamaquoddy Trail

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Stony Man Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.