Surprisingly, this was our first hike in the southern section of Shenandoah National Park. Before this, the furthest south we had travelled in the park was Bearfence Mountain. Most of the well known hikes are in the central and northern districts. And while we consider Shenandoah our “home park,” driving there from Northern Virginia can take a while.

We spent a weekend at Big Meadows Lodge, and planned to hike Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail, one of the most popular routes in the south district. The hike includes a section of the Appalachian Trail, forming a 9.8 mile circuit. The combination of trails, which circumnavigates Rock Mountain, is also commonly called Riprap Hollow.

An early start is crucial, especially since the trail is relatively long and strenuous. The loop starts along Skyline Drive, with parking options at mile markers 90 and 92. The lot at mile 90 is the official “Riprap Parking Lot,” while the one at mile 92 is called “Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot.”

Appalachian Trail

Staying at the lodge was a fun new experience for us – and it allowed us to get to the trailhead in just over an hour. As we headed down Skyline Drive, we enjoyed the ambience and scenic overlooks. Eventually, we came to the small parking lot at mile marker 90 – which was totally full. So we drove two more miles to 92, where there were still some parking spaces.

We planned to hike the loop counter-clockwise, starting on the Appalachian Trail. Then we’d take Riprap Trail to Wildcat Ridge Trail, which leads back to the trailhead. The loop could also be hiked clockwise, and we’ll probably try that next time. Going counter-clockwise allows you to arrive at the viewpoints sooner, but you’ll have a steeper ascent on Wildcat Ridge at the end of the route. Hiking clockwise allows you to hit a swimming hole earlier, and you’ll ascend Riprap Trail more gradually.

Our route started on Wildcat Ridge Trail, where we hiked for a few minutes before turning right (northbound) on the AT. This loop is also a good option for backpacking. But the week we were there, signs were posted notifying hikers that backcountry camping was closed due to black bear activity.

This part of the AT is relatively flat, and there were occasional views through the trees to our left (west). It was June, so we only saw a couple blooming wildflowers – mainly rattlesnake hawkweed. On a log, we also saw a huge fishing spider. I’m not really a fan of spiders, but this one was interesting to see. Mountain laurel lined the trail, though it had mostly finished flowering, so we only glimpsed a couple of white flowers.

Riprap Trail – Views

After hiking for 2.8 miles, we reached the Riprap trailhead along Skyline Drive at mile marker 90. A short distance later, we turned left onto Riprap Trail. There are two viewpoints that we wanted to check out along the trail, Calvary Rocks and Chimney Rock. But first, we made our way through some switchbacks and passed by a large talus field.

Shortly after, we reached our first viewpoint along the right side of the trail near Calvary Rocks. Looking northwest from the viewpoint, we saw the Shenandoah Valley and towns below. As we continued on the trail, we saw some rock formations on our left – the true Calvary Rocks. We didn’t have time to explore, but you could go off-trail and scramble around.

As we continued, we quickly came to the next viewpoint – Chimney Rock. As we gazed out again to the northwest, we thought that this view was better than the one at Calvary Rocks. For a shorter hike, this is a good spot to turn around, but we kept going. The views to our right continued as we followed the quickly narrowing trail along a ridgeline.

We gradually began descending the rocky trail to Cold Spring Hollow. Wild azalea and mountain laurel were all around us – unfortunately no longer flowering. We also found blueberry bushes beside the trail, which we hadn’t expected. Most of the berries weren’t quite ripe, but we found a couple that were and snacked on them.

Riprap Trail – Water Features

Eventually, we were hiking parallel to a small stream that flows into Meadow Run. The stream moves through a pretty gorge area with a few small waterfalls. After that, we encountered a few posts that read “No Camping.” We believe these are old and can be disregarded. There’s nothing about this area being closed to camping on Shenandoah’s website, and a couple campsites are scattered around.

From here, the trail crosses the stream and follows it for a good ways. About 0.3 miles after the gorge area, we came to a stunning swimming hole. We relaxed for a bit, watching the stream gently cascade into the pool. We weren’t prepared to go swimming, but a couple of other hikers were. I would love to come back sometime to take a dip.

After leaving the swimming hole, the trail became a bit harder to follow, as there was a side trail leading to an old shelter. The shelter was removed when the area became a wilderness, but we found some signs pointing to its former site. We made sure to look for the blue blazes, and once we were on the right track we quickly made it to the next intersection. Riprap Trail continues to the boundary of Shenandoah NP, but we turned left onto Wildcat Ridge Trail to head back to the parking lot.

Wildcat Ridge Trail

Crossing the stream one last time, we started to ascend. While Wildcat Ridge trail isn’t too long, it has the steepest elevation gain of the loop. We had a constant uphill climb, with a few switchbacks, for about 2.6 miles until we reached the intersection with the Appalachian Trail. There were a few views on the way, but nothing too impressive.

At the intersection of Wildcat Ridge Trail and the AT, we spotted an eastern cottontail rabbit – though we see them more frequently in our yard than while hiking. From there, it was a quick walk back to the parking lot. We climbed into the car and drove back to Big Meadows Lodge, where we had a delicious dinner as we watched the sun set.

This was a great hike, and we know we’ll be back again. Views and water features meant there was a lot to see along the way. We recommend doing the full loop if you can, but if not, Chimney Rock is worth a visit. I wish the loop was closer to where we live so we could hike it more easily.

Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail

Date: Saturday, June 22, 2019
Type: Loop dayhike
Total Distance: 9.6 miles (15.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2382 feet (726 m)
Time: 7 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
Crowds: Low to moderate
Water: Various streams, creeks, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Multiple views, wildflowers, waterfall, swimming holes
Notes: This route can be done clockwise or counterclockwise.
Directions to Wildcat Ridge Parking (mile marker 92): Google Maps Directions
Directions to Riprap Parking (mile marker 90): Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot, begin on blue-blazed Wildcat Ridge Trail. If you parked at the Riprap Parking Lot, start at the 2.8 mile trail direction after taking the short spur trail from the parking lot to the AT.
• 0.1 mi – Turn right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail
• 2.8 mi – Continue straight on the AT, past the intersection with the trail that leads to Riprap Parking Lot.
• 3.2 mi – Turn left onto Riprap Trail
• 3.9 mi – Calvary Rocks Viewpoint
• 4.3 mi – Chimney Rock Viewpoint
• 6.3 mi – Swimming hole
• 6.9 mi – Turn left onto Wildcat Ridge Trail
• 9.5 mi – Continue straight on Wildcat Ridge Trail at the intersection with the Appalachian Trail
• 9.6 mi – Back at Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot

Places

• Riprap Parking Lot | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 90
• Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 92
• Calvary Rocks Viewpoint | 38.1871442,-78.7732787
• Chimney Rock Viewpoint | 38.1865942, -78.7788787

Maps

• Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Riprap Area Road and Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Calvary Rocks (Summit Post)
• Chimney Rock (Summit Post)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Type: 2-day Backpacking Lollipop Loop
Distance: Overall 11.6 miles (18.7 km).  Day 1 – 5.5 miles (8.9 km).  Day 2 – 6.1 miles (9.8 km).
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3,296 feet (1,005 m)
Net Elevation Gain/Loss: 2,624 feet (800 m)
Date Visited: May 12, 2018 – May 13, 2018
Overall Run & Beecher Ridge Trail Map (KTNP)

I had been wanting to check out Overall Run Falls in Shenandoah National Park for some time.  At 93 feet, Overall Run Falls is the highest waterfall in the park, but you don’t hear as much about it as other waterfalls like Dark Hollow Falls or White Oak Canyon.  So on a warm spring day, we went to see for ourselves.  We planned for a one-night backpacking trip to see the falls and make a lollipop loop with Overall Run and Heiskell Hollow Trail.  Our plans changed slightly during the hike, and we returned on Beecher Ridge Trail instead of Heiskell Hollow Trail, creating an 11.6 mi lollipop.  Either way, the route has the benefit of being in the Shenandoah’s Northern District – the closest one to the DC area and our house!  The route is also near Mathews Arm Campground, where we’ve stayed plenty of times.

Our plans in place, we drove to a small parking lot near Hogback Overlook at mile marker 21 on Skyline Drive.  We managed to grab the last parking spot there.  We wanted to eat a quick lunch before starting our hike, but we were immediately swarmed by small bugs.  K was content to sit on a rock while she ate, but the bugs annoyed me so much I chose to eat in the car.

Day 1 – Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail

Once ready, we set out south on the Appalachian Trail.  We would only be on the AT for about 0.3 miles before heading onto Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  The trees near the trailhead were still pretty bare, which was surprising since we visited in mid-May.  As the trail descended the trees became fuller and the wildflowers more scarce.

The AT was easy going, and in no time, we turned right onto Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  We would be on this trail until it split into two separate trails, Tuscarora and Overall Run.  The sun shone, and we made good progress as we continued to descend.  I knew the next day would be a quad buster and pretty much all uphill.  There weren’t many other hikers on this trail, which was surprising considering the parking lot at Hogsback was full.

We passed an intersection with Traces Trail, and more colorful wildflowers appeared.  I’ve always enjoyed hiking in the spring and seeing wildflowers like geraniums, violets, wild azalea, and orchids.  We pass over a couple small, probably intermittent, streams.  Near one stream are a few budding false hellebore wildflowers.  Suddenly, we heard something in the woods nearby.  Black bears are common here, but it turned out to be just a deer.

The trail continued until we passed Mathews Arm Trail on our left, which leads to Mathews Arm Campground.  We starting to see more hikers since the campground is so close.  In fact, Mathews Arm trailhead is closer to Overall Run Falls than Hogback Overlook parking lot is.  Soon we saw our first falls – not Overall Run Falls, but a smaller group of falls.  We decided to take a break and enjoy the views, even though many day hikers and a few backpackers were milling around too.

Pressing on, we quickly arrived at Overall Run Falls.  This is the longest waterfall in the park.  And?  It was pretty, but other waterfalls in the park are more impressive.  Perhaps it would be more eye-catching after a big rain.  Tree cover partially obstructed our view, which is already a good distance from the falls, and the base of the waterfall is hidden from view.  But don’t let that dissuade you; I still recommend checking it out.  Near the falls are several overlooks, including a picturesque view of the Massanutten Mountains to the west.

There are signs indicating that you shouldn’t camp on the falls side of the trail.  You could camp on the other side, though we didn’t notice any established campsites on that section of trail, and with all the people, I don’t think it would be particularly peaceful.  Immediately after we passed the sign saying that you could camp again on either side, we saw a couple hammock camping.  It’s possible they had a view of the falls from where they were, but it was hard to tell.  We weren’t ready to put up our tent yet, so we kept going.  We saw a few established campsites (check them out on the map below), but we planned to camp along Overall Run Trail.

Down we went, as the trail continued to descend.  Overall Run flows right next to and over the trail, so we had two easy stream crossings.  We came upon a family backpacking with two children who were taking a break on the side of the trail.  They looked exhausted from the uphill climb.  We commiserated, knowing we would ascend the next day.  We mentioned a nice established campsite that we had passed, waved goodbye, and continued on.

Day 1 – Overall Run Trail

Saying goodbye to Tuscarora Trail as it headed northwest, we continued onto Overall Run Trail.  Shenandoah’s website mentions a side trail to some cascades after Tuscarora Trail splits.  We weren’t sure what to expect, but the word “cascades” intrigued us.  So when we came to a junction – on our right was an established campsite; on our left, a social trail – we took the social trail in search of the cascades.

The cascades, it turns out, are a series of waterfalls, slides, and swimming holes.  It was a hot, muggy, buggy, humid day and I wanted to dive in.  There were a lot of visitors, as an access trail called Thompson Hollow leads there after about 1.1 miles.  My mind wrestled with itself as I thought about taking a dip, because we probably should keep going and make camp.  On the other hand, the water was so inviting with its sparkly blue-green tint.  We settled for walking alongside the flowing water past a series of scenic pools.  In addition to being pressed for time, there were other swimmers in the pools, so we just climbed on the rocks and enjoyed the water features before hiking back onto Overall Run Trail to find a campsite.  We discussed returning to the cascades after setting up camp if we had time (we didn’t).

The nearby campsite was an option, but we wanted more privacy.  I scouted ahead of K, onto Overall/Beecher Connector Trail where I found a site, but it was already occupied.  So we located another site near the end of Overall Run Trail.  It was close enough to Overall Run that we had a good source of water, and was far enough off the trail to offer some privacy.  We set up our tent, ate dinner, then went in search of the perfect branch to hang our bear bag.  We always seem to have trouble finding a branch that’s high enough, long enough, and thick enough to support our food and scented items, but we did the best we could.  We went to sleep with heat lightning illuminating the sky.

Day 2 – Beecher Ridge Trail

Drip…drip…drip…dripdrip…dripdripdripdrip…woooshhhh!!!  Around 1am, we were awakened to the sounds of a torrential rain storm.  The forecast had said there was a small chance, but we had risked it.  Turns out, we had lost our bet with the weather.  Luckily, while there was lightning, it was far away.  I love hearing the sound of rain as I fall asleep, but I’m not a big fan of hiking in the rain.  Our tent kept us (and our gear) cozy and dry though.  It poured for the rest of the night, until around 6am.  We decided that we’d sleep for only an hour or so and then get up and go.  But we were awakened again, by more rain.  So we were lazy and decided to wait it out.

We woke up again around 9am, which is the middle of the day for some backpackers, but at least the rain had stopped again.  We quickly made oatmeal for breakfast and packed up.  Our tent left a nice dry patch where it had been.  Thankfully, we were dry, but the world around us was soaked.  And this would be the day with a lot of elevation gain, compared to the elevation loss we had the previous day.  There were fewer bugs due to the rain (at least initially), and it had gotten cooler.  But it had also become even more humid, and the bugs would be back before we knew it.

Our initial plan was to hike south on Beecher Ridge Trail, until the intersection with Heiskell Hollow Trail, where we would head east.  But since we got a later start than intended, we decided to cut off a couple miles and hike back east on Beecher Ridge Trail.  We didn’t know whether it would start storming again or not.  The sun had come out just in time for our first major incline of the trip.

Beecher Ridge Trail is pretty much all uphill, and it was again buggy, muggy, and humid.  Even with the uphill, we were making good time.  We stopped for a break and were immediately swarmed by gnats.  We could only stand around for a bit before we had to start moving again to get away from the bugs.  The trail was very green, narrow in some places, and almost overgrown.  Not a trail that sees a lot of use.  Since the previous day at the cascades, we hadn’t seen anyone yet.  Beecher Ridge Trail is also an area that is supposed to have a large concentration of black bears.  We didn’t see any, but we kept an eye out.

There is no rest for the incline on this trail, and it wasn’t until we reached the intersection with Matthews Arm Trail that we had any relief.  A ton of people (and thankfully, fewer insects) streamed past us on Matthews Arm Trail as we took a quick break.  This portion of trail leads to Overall Run Falls, so we weren’t surprised – in fact, the falls were probably more spectacular after the previous night’s storm.

Continuing on, we turned left on Matthew’s Arm Trail to see what we thought were black and orange butterflies dancing close to us.  As we stop and watch, we realized that they were actually birds!  They were beautiful, and we think they were American Redstarts, but it’s hard to know for sure.  They were gone before we knew it, so I couldn’t get a photo.  We continued on, and crossed Overall Run, where the rain had caused the stream to swell up and inundate the trail.  We decided it was a good spot to filter some water since I was running low.

The intersection with Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail came, and we had completed the main loop.  Heading right, there was – only – a very long incline over 2.4 miles to get back to our car.  I don’t mind doing the incline last in a trip, but I prefer hikes where you get the incline over with first.  We make it back to our car, which was wet and muddy from the downpour.  We were starving, so we headed to Sperryville to grab a burger at Headmaster’s Pub.  The chipotle mayo there is amazing.  I could drink it.  As we sat there gorging on burgers and fries, the sky opened up and poured.  We had finished the hike just in time!

Overall, the hike was very enjoyable and made for a nice 1-night backpacking trip.  It had some special waterfalls, inviting swimming holes, and beautiful views.  Someday we’ll make it back and do Heiskell Hollow Trail too.  But for now, we checked off somewhere I’d been wanting to see for awhile.

Overall Run & Beecher Ridge Trails
Dates: We did this backpacking trip from May 12, 2018 to May 13, 2018
Type: Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 11.6 miles (18.7 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3,296 feet (1,005 m)
Net Elevation Gain/Loss: 2,624 feet (800 m)

• Day 1 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 5.5 miles (8.9 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 371 feet (113 m) Gain, 2969 feet (905 m) Loss
  • Time: 4.5 hours hiking including occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A site along Overall Run Trail
• Day 2 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 6.1 miles (9.8 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 2924 feet (891 m) Gain, 327 feet (100 m) Loss
  • Time: 5 hours hiking including lunch and rest breaks

Trail Markings: Well-marked with yellow, blue, and white blazes depending on the trail type
Difficulty: Moderate, decent elevation gain but otherwise not too bad
Crowds:  Lots of people near Overall Run and Mathews Arm, otherwise only saw a few groups.
Water: Plenty of streams, waterfalls, swimming pools
Directions to Overall Run Trail Parking: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the small parking lot near Hogback Overlook, head southwest on the white blazed Appalachian Trail.  The trail will ascend slightly, then descend.
• Mile 0.4 – Turn right onto the blue blazed Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.
• Mile 1.0 – Pass Traces Trail on your left.  Bear right to stay on Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.
• Mile 2.6 – Pass Mathews Arm Trail on your left.  Continue straight on Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  A small group of waterfalls is on the left after about 1,000 feet.
• Mile 3.0 – On your left is Overall Run Falls!  Enjoy from afar.
• Mile 4.9 – You’ve reached the end of Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.  Continue straight onto Overall Run Trail (still blue blazed).
• Mile 5.0 – To the left, a social trail leads away from Overall Run Trail.  Check out the cascades, a series of waterfalls and swimming holes.  When you’re finished, head back out the same way to Overall Run Trail.  Continue on Overall Run Trail and look for a campsite along the next 0.6 miles.
• Mile 5.6 – Overall Run Trail ends; turn left onto the Overall-Beecher Connector Trail.
• Mile 6.3 – The trail runs into the yellow blazed Beecher Ridge Trail.  Yellow blazes means the trail is shared with horses.  Take the left side of Beecher Ridge Trail, which starts gaining elevation.  Beecher Ridge is supposed to have a high concentration of black bears, so stay alert and make noise!
• Mile 8.6 – Beecher Ridge Trail ends; turn left onto Matthews Arm Trail.
• Mile 9.0 – The loop is complete; turn right onto blue blazed Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail, which you were on the previous day.
• Mile 10.6 – Stay left to continue on Tuscarora-Overall Run Trail.
• Mile 11.2 – Turn left onto the white blazed Appalachian Trail.
• Mile 11.6 – Back at the parking lot.

Highlights: Waterfalls, streams, wildlife, views

Places:
Hogsback Overlook Parking Lot | 38.7612, -78.2822
Overall Run Falls | 38.78335, -78.29449
Mathews Arm Campground | Rileyville, VA 22650
Headmaster’s Pub | 12018 Lee Hwy, Sperryville, VA 22740

Maps:
Overall Run & Beecher Ridge Trail Map (KTNP)
Mathews Arm Area Map (NPS)

Links:
Shenandoah Overall Run and Beecher Ridge Trip Guide (NPS)
Shenandoah Backcountry Regulations (NPS)
Shenandoah Backcountry Planning (NPS)

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