We don’t go backpacking too often in the middle of summer (travels aside). But we had a free weekend, and we wanted to test out some new gear and get in shape for an upcoming trip to Glacier NP. So it was back to Shenandoah National Park for a quick one-nighter.

Initially we wanted to hike Jeremy’s Run, one of our favorite backpacking routes in the park. In reading some trip reports, it seemed like the trail could be laden with poison ivy in the summer though, which was a no-go for a fairly sensitive individual like myself. Instead, we decided on a 15.2 mile loop trail in the central district. The loop would go up Nicholson Hollow, past White Rocks, and return on Hannah Run Trail.

Planning

While we hadn’t done this exact loop before, White Rocks is a special place for us – it was the first place we ever went backpacking. It was only a one-night ~5.0 mile round trip from Skyline Drive, but we learned a lot and had a great time. This trip would be longer and more strenuous, at 15.2 miles and 3,742 feet cumulative elevation gain/loss. White Rocks Trail features a few views, and a spur trail leads to a waterfall and cave. We planned to camp near the intersection with that spur trail.

As mentioned, I tested out three pieces of equipment on this hike: Brooks Cascadia trail runners, a Sony a6400 camera, and an REI Flash 55 ultralight backpack. All three items were for slightly different uses compared with my current set of gear, which at the time was a pair of Vasque hiking boots, a Sony RX100 IV camera, and an Osprey Atmos 65 AG backpack.

The route we chose starts on the east side of the park boundary. The closest parking is the Old Rag Parking Lot, which fills up early on weekends. A few days before the trip, I called Shenandoah to ask a few questions. Among other things, the ranger informed me that the park may someday require the use of bear canisters, due to backpackers hanging bear bags incorrectly. That was certainly a surprise to hear! We’ll see if it happens.

Day 1 – Nicholson Hollow Trail

We arrived at the Old Rag Parking Lot at 8:30 a.m. on a Saturday. There was plenty of space, but it was filling up fast. First, we requested a backcountry permit at the ranger booth. Then we hit the… road? If you’ve hiked Old Rag prior to 2020, you’re familiar with walking along Nethers Road for a bit before you reach any trailheads. As of 2020, a new parking lot was built closer to the trailheads, across the street from Nicholson Hollow Trail. But in 2019, we had to walk along the road to get to Nicholson Hollow Trail, which splits off before Old Rag Trail.

A trail intersection marker pointed us down a gravel road off to the right. At the end of the road is a gate, and to its right is the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. The first half mile of the trail goes through private property before entering the park. After about one minute on the trail, we reached our first stream crossing, across Brokenback Run. Nicely laid out rocks provided easy stepping stones. But it had rained recently, so the rocks were wet and the stream was flowing fast and high. Luckily we had our trekking poles to help us balance.

I went first, and Kristin followed. As I reached the middle of the stream, my foot slipped and plunged into the chilly water. Of course. My other foot held onto a rock and I pulled myself out easily, but my shoe, sock, and foot were soaked. It turned out to be a good test of the trail runners. Even with the humidity, the shoes drained and gradually dried as I hiked – they were mostly dry by the time we camped later that night.

Shortly after the first stream crossing was an almost identical second one over Hughes River. Two guys crossed from the opposite direction as we waited. They had parked at Skyline Drive, and were taking Nicholson Hollow Trail to get to Old Rag. That’s one way to do it. When it was our turn to cross, I made sure my footing was secure and we both got across without incident.

After crossing, we continued hiking with Hughes River on our left. Occasional paths led out to the river for a better view. There were waterfalls, rapids, and swimming holes along the way – good opportunities to play around with my Sony a6400 camera. Nicholson Hollow is an enjoyable trail, with gradual elevation gain and a peaceful river next door. Along the way, we crossed into Shenandoah National Park.

After 1.2 miles on Nicholson Hollow Trail, we came to an intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail. This area has several backcountry campsites, though it was too early in the day for us to make camp. Another 0.4 miles later, we turned right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail.

Day 1 – Hazel Mountain and River Trails

While we really enjoyed Nicholson Hollow Trail, we really didn’t enjoy Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. It’s a lot of uphill gain, and the trail is overgrown, narrow, and a bit of a slog. To our left was Short Mountain and to our right, Hot Mountain. For 2.1 miles we climbed up, taking a break for lunch about halfway through.

Upon reaching the intersection with Hazel Mountain Trail, we took a short break. While resting, I looked down at my shin and saw a small insect – a tiny deer tick. Oh, that’s why we don’t hike in Shenandoah as often in the summer. Thankfully, it hadn’t attached yet and I shook it off. After our break, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail.

Hazel Mountain Trail isn’t too interesting, but it’s a good workout as it ascends and descends. After 1.2 miles, we turned right onto Hazel River Trail, which descends 700 feet over 1.8 miles. It was also terribly overgrown. Worried about ticks, I made sure to cover my legs despite the heat and humidity. It was probably my least favorite trail on this route.

Day 1 – White Rocks Trail

Eventually, in what took longer than I thought it should, we reached the junction with White Rocks Trail. We passed a few campsites, crossed Hazel River, and began ascending steadily. It’s a tough ascent initially, but eventually we got to a ridgeline that goes up and down as it spans four summits.

There are limited views along this section. If you can find them, faint side trails on the left lead to rock outcroppings that offer better views. These scenic vistas are considered to be the “white rocks.” Unfortunately for us, we didn’t do a great job of finding them – we bushwhacked a bit, but we may have missed some more obvious areas. Hopefully, next time we’ll do a better job of locating the viewpoints.

After 1.4 miles, we reached the intersection with the Cave/Falls Spur Trail, near where we planned to camp. Years ago, on our first backpacking trip, we stayed at a fairly large and private campsite with a huge rock. Unfortunately, this time it was occupied. So we grabbed another nearby site that seemed comparable, minus the huge rock.

It was nice to take a break and unload our gear. So far, I had really enjoyed using my ultralight REI Flash backpack – it’s super comfortable and definitely weighs less than my old pack. Of course, I plan to keep them both. We set up our tent and grabbed our water filtration supplies.

Day 1 – Cave/Falls Spur Trail

We headed down Cave/Falls Spur Trail, a steep tenth of a mile. The closest water source, Hazel River, is at the bottom, along with beautiful waterfall and cave. As we started to descend, two guys came up and said that the falls and cave “aren’t worth it.” We’ve been there before, and we disagree. Plus, we needed water.

At the bottom of the steep hill, we saw a pool of water with a tiny waterfall. After walking upstream along Hazel River, we spotted a second waterfall, known as Hazel Falls. The waterfall is small, pretty, and secluded. On the opposite side of the trail is a cave that goes back about 10 to 15 feet. Even though it’s shallow, it’s interesting and fun to explore.

Both the falls and cave are picturesque, so we experimented with my new wide-angle camera lens. After snapping way too many photos, we began filtering some water. Suddenly, it started raining gently for about 30 seconds. It cooled us off, and foreshadowed what was to come.

Later that evening, I walked along White Rocks Trail to see if there were any other campsites near us. There were, and I spotted an attempt at a “bear bag.” Except it was just a plastic grocery bag tied to a small branch, right next to a tree trunk, about five feet off the ground. Flashback to the park ranger who said Shenandoah may require bear canisters in the future. Now I see why. C’mon people, hang your bear bags properly.

Back in the tent, we did a tick check. This time we found a deer tick attached near my waist. Ugh, I hate ticks. We removed it, then headed to sleep. We drifted off to the sounds of rain, wind, and thunder.

Day 2 – White Rocks Trail

Around 6:45 a.m., we woke up and the rain had stopped, so we were able to make breakfast. Usually we do oatmeal with nuts, seeds, and fruit, but this time we shared a Mountain House hash dehydrated meal. It tasted pretty good, but we missed the dense calories we get from the oatmeal. We packed up and headed west on White Rocks Trail.

White Rocks Trail ascends initially before leveling out. It’s quite narrow in places, and Kristin was in front of me. I saw her step over a snake, and I asked her if she noticed it. “No…” she said, slightly stunned. I stopped with the snake between us. “It’s okay,” I said. “I don’t think it’s poisonous.”

The snake poked its head out onto the path, and just sat there. Kristin and I both backed away to give the snake its space; it immediately slithered across the trail and was gone. Later we looked it up based on photos I took. It was a copperhead…so much for my theory.

After that excitement, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail. We crossed Hazel River and saw a neat pickerel frog (also poisonous) nearby. As we continued, Kristin and I chatted about all the wildlife we’ve seen while hiking, and lamented never having seen a black bear in Shenandoah in the four years that we’ve been hiking there together.

Shortly after, we heard a noise off to the side, and a black bear stepped onto Hazel Mountain Trail about 100 feet in front of us. “Bear,” I said softly, I didn’t have time to say anything else. It glanced at us, then quietly continued across the trail. The encounter lasted only seconds. I didn’t even have time to get my camera out, but it was exhilarating to see a black bear in the wild.

Day 2 – Hannah Run Trail

At the intersection with Catlett Spur Trail, we continued straight on Hazel Mountain Trail. It’s a muddy, uphill climb and we didn’t notice anything special beyond a few yellow Clintonia wildflowers (which weren’t flowering this time of year). After 1.1 miles that seemed much longer, we turned right onto Catlett Mountain Trail, then immediately left onto Hannah Run Trail. There, we ran into some fellow hikers for the first time that day.

The segment of our hike on Hannah Run Trail was 2.4 miles, with steep ups and downs and a few stream crossings. Along the way were a few remnants left by occupants of the area before it became a park: a fireplace and an old stone wall. We ate lunch on the trail, and I found tick #3 on me; thankfully, Kristin hadn’t found any. At a few points near the end of Hannah Run Trail, it looked like there would be some good views, but the trees always seemed to block them. There would likely be more visibility in spring or fall.

About a half mile away from returning to Nicholson Hollow Trail, I felt a popping sensation under my knee, and it started hurting like hell. I could barely move without grimacing, and I had no idea what went wrong. Somehow, we made it to Nicholson Hollow, and found a campsite where I took a break. It helped a bit, and I managed to make it back to our car.

At home, we did a thorough tick check, then showered. That’s when Kristin spotted a tiny deer tick on her leg. Even after checking AND showering! We quickly removed it, and remained vigilant for the next 24 hours or so. As for my knee, it continued hurting for the next week, so I saw my doctor and was told I strained my hamstring. I headed to a physical therapist so I could survive our upcoming trip to Glacier National Park.

Now for my opinion on the gear I tried out. The Brooks Cascadia trail runners, while not having the same amount of grip as my boots, were definitely lighter and dried quickly. The REI Flash lightweight backpack was also a winner; in the end it was more comfortable than my Osprey Atmos AG. We’ll see if that’s still the case with continued use. And while the Sony a6400 took great photos, I realized that I hate changing lenses, so that one is still to be determined.

Overall, the hike was enjoyable. Our favorite sections were Nicholson Hollow, White Rocks, and the Cave/Falls Trail. There are some cozy campsites, though it was disheartening to see how some campers hung their food and other scented items when there are bears nearby. The wildlife we saw also made the trip rather memorable. Spring and fall are probably ideal seasons for this route – if you go in the summer, make sure to stay on the lookout for ticks.

Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow

Date: Saturday, June 29, 2019 – Sunday, June 30, 2019
Type: 1 Night Backpacking Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 15.2 miles (24.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3742 feet (1141 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 8.2 miles (13.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 2650 feet (808 m) gain, 1538 feet (469 m) loss
  • Time: 6.5 hours, which includes lunch and occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A backcountry campsite near the intersection of White Rocks Trail and Cave/Falls Spur Trail
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 7.0 miles (11.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1092 feet (333 m) gain, 2204 feet (671 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Multiple streams and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, history, waterfalls
Directions to Old Rag Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Old Rag parking lot, head 0.1 miles west on Nethers Road. At the fork, turn right onto a gravel road (there’s a trail marker at the fork). After 170 feet you’ll see the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead on your right. Start your hike here. Two stream crossings will come in short succession after hiking 125 feet.
• 1.2 mi – At the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail, continue straight.
• 1.7 mi – Turn right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. This trail has the steepest incline on the route.
• 3.8 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 4.3 mi – Continue straight on Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Catlett Mountain Trail
• 4.8 mi – Continue on yellow-blazed Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Sam’s Ridge Trail
• 5.0 mi – Turn right onto Hazel River Trail, which will descend steeply
• 6.4 mi – Turn left onto White Rocks Trail. About 0.1 miles in, you’ll cross Hazel River and start ascending. The trail follows a ridgeline that goes up and down four summits.
• 8.2 mi – Intersection with Cave/Falls Spur Trail, which leads down to Hazel Falls. There are several campsites in the area, which is where we stayed. Go down Cave/Falls Spur Trail to a water source, Hazel Falls, and a cave.
• 9.3 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 9.8 mi – Turn right onto blue-blazed Catlett Spur Trail
• 10.9 mi – Turn right onto Catlett Mountain Trail and go 230 feet, then turn left onto Hannah Run Trail.
• 13.4 mi – Turn left onto Nicholson Hollow Trail
• 13.6 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Hot Mountain-Short Mountain. At this point, you’ve completed the “loop” part of the hike.
• 14.0 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail.
• 15.2 mi – Back at the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. Continue back up the gravel road to Nethers Road. Head left 0.1 miles to the Old Rag Parking Lot.

Places

• Old Rag Parking on Nethers Road| 38.5721462, -78.294921
• Nicholson Hollow Trailhead | 38.5731685,-78.2958718

Maps

• Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow Trail Map (KTNP)
• Old Rag Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Shenandoah NP Tick Information (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We were feeling a bit sad on our last full day in Redwood National and State Parks. But we were going to go out with a bang. Our main activity for the day was Boy Scout Tree Trail, a 5.6 mile out-and-back hike located in Jedediah Smith State Park.

The trail is gorgeous, and features many old growth redwood trees. A small waterfall, called Fern Falls, makes the turnaround point a scenic lunch spot. Near the end of the trail is Boy Scout Tree – two redwoods that have grown together, resembling the Boy Scout salute.

Howland Hill Road

Howland Hill Road leads to Boy Scout Tree Trail. The unpaved road bisects Jedediah Smith State Park and is a great scenic drive. Along the road are trailheads for Boy Scout Tree, Mill Creek, Nickerson Ranch, and Stout Grove trails. The narrow, picturesque road winds around enormous redwood trees. It was prettier and more well-maintained than we expected. Cars pulled to the side of the busy road so visitors could take photos.

After a couple miles on Howland Hill Road, we stopped at a small parking lot for the trail. There are no restrooms at the trailhead, so plan ahead. The parking lot can fill up quickly, as this is a popular hike. But when we arrived at noon, there were still spots available. We grabbed our packs and lunch, and set off into the woods.

Boy Scout Tree

Our hike took us through a beautiful redwood forest, with sunlight occasionally streaming in through the dense trees. The trail is easy to moderate, with some rolling hills and exposed roots. We crossed a bridge over a small trickling creek and stopped to take a selfie.

We crossed several other bridges, went under overhanging trees, and climbed stairs built into the trail. Even after being in the park for a week, we marveled at the size of the redwoods – they were some of the biggest we’d seen. Along the trail we waved to some of our old friends, the banana slugs.

Ahead, we spot a sign that reads “B.S. Tree.” It’s either the Boy Scout tree, or someone is playing a joke on us. The sign points to the right, up a steep, partly-eroded trail. About 100 feet into the trail, we reach Boy Scout tree, which has a small wooden label attached. Essentially it’s two gigantic trees fused together at the bottom. Its height made it difficult to photograph!

Fern Falls

After spending a few minutes at Boy Scout Tree, we returned to the main trail and continued hiking. Ten minutes later, we arrived at Fern Falls. The waterfall is nice, but it was the wrong time of the day to photograph it as the sun was shining directly on it. Fallen trees partially blocked our view of the falls.

Nearby was a log with a view of the falls, which doubled as a picnic bench, so we relaxed and ate some lunch. Groups of hikers came and left at a steady rate, exploring the waterfall, pools, and streams. After finishing my lunch, I wanted to explore. To my surprise, I saw some small fish swimming in the pools near the falls.

As I watched the fish swim around, my eye caught another creature – a salamander. There were actually a couple of them, but they were hard to see since they blended in so well. I watched them for awhile, and called Kristin over to take a look too. These were juvenile salamanders, who spend their life in the water. What exact species, I wasn’t sure, but there are eight different species of newts and salamanders in the area according to the park website.

After some more exploring, we headed back toward the trailhead. On the way, we saw someone pushing a stroller on the trail. That seems like a losing proposition with the roots and stairs, but to each their own.

Boy Scout Tree Trail is a well-maintained trail with large redwood trees. The falls at the end were a bit disappointing, though the fish and salamanders kind of made up for it. With that, our Redwood adventure was over, and our next stop would be Crater Lake National Park.

Boy Scout Tree Trail

Dates: July 23, 2017
Type: Out-and-back day hike
Total Distance: 5.6 miles (9.0 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1386 feet (423 m)
Time: 3 hours hiking, which includes lunch and photo breaks
Trail Markings: Sign pointing to Boy Scout Tree
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: We saw a lot of groups
Water: Fern Falls, streams
Highlights: Large redwood trees, wildlife, waterfall, streams
Directions to Boy Scout Tree Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Start the trail from the parking lot
• Mile 2.4 – A sign points to a short trail on the right. Walk about 300 feet to see Boy Scout Tree. Then go back to the main trail.
• Mile 2.9 – You’ve arrived at Fern Falls. A social trail appears to continue beyond the falls. Explore, eat lunch, just be you. Then go back the way you came.
• Mile 5.6 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Boy Scout Tree Trailhead | 41.7682991, -124.1128776
• Boy Scout Tree | 41.7823324,-124.1354714
• Fern Falls |41.7818276, -124.1354898

Maps

• Boy Scout Tree Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Boy Scout Tree Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

After checking out of Jedediah Smith Campground, we drove along route 101 to a trail with an awkward name. Damnation Creek Trail is in Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, part of Redwood National & State Parks. It’s a well-known hike, and considered one of the best in the park. The trail descends 2.1 miles through redwood trees, and across Damnation Creek, to a coastal rocky beach. It’s both a diverse and difficult hike.

Descending Damnation Creek Trail

When we arrived at the small parking area along route 101 around 1pm, there were only a few spots available. As we started on the trail, we saw a sign that warned that the trail dropped 1000 feet. After an initial ascent of about 100 feet, we began a steady descent. And since this trail is an out-and-back, we would have to hike back up.

Soon Damnation Creek Trail intersected with the Coastal Trail, and we started descending more steeply. A sign near the intersection read “bridge failure,” and referred to a bridge near the end of the trail. We had spoken to a NPS intern, who told us that hikers had been crossing the bridge, even though the NPS didn’t recommend it.

We hit some switchbacks and descended into fog. The redwoods become more sparse as we headed toward the coast, and we could see the ocean peeking through the trees. The trail is very narrow, steep, and wet in spots – so some sections of the trail are eroded.

The Coast

As we neared the coast, we arrived at a wooden bridge with orange plastic webbing. Was this the bridge that was closed? We weren’t sure, since it didn’t appear to be blocked off. I thought about turning around and going back the way we came, but we decided to cross one at a time instead. The creek was just a few feet below…but this may have been a bad life decision. The trail led through tall grass and wildflowers to a view of the ocean, where we took photos of the coast shrouded in heavy fog.

Precariously steep steps carved into the side of the hill led to a stream, and finally a rocky beach. We explored and took photos, particularly of the rocks in the ocean, which reminded us of Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach, Oregon. Under the viewpoint we had come from, there was a small passageway that led to the south side of the beach.

It was time for a late lunch, so we found a spot with a great view. The other groups of beach-goers slowly disappeared, and we eventually had some solitude to relax and enjoy the beach. As we ate, the fog lifted and the weather became hot and sunny.

Ascending Damnation Creek Trail

You might be saying the name of the trail as you ascend the steep incline. The return hike was difficult for us at first, but once we got past the eroded, narrow part of the trail, it was just a moderate uphill hike. As we hiked up, we passed a sign saying we were leaving a tsunami zone…good to know!

We had hoped to hike some other trails in the park, but were pretty tired. Our consolation prize was heading back into Crescent City for dinner. On the way, we discussed how much we had enjoyed the varied terrain and plant life along Damnation Creek Trail. It turned out to be one of our favorites – despite its elevation gain and quirky name.

Damnation Creek Trail

Date: July 22, 2017
Type: Out and back hike
Total Distance: 4.2 miles (6.8 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1694 feet (516 m)
Time: 4 hours, which includes lunch and photo breaks
Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: Moderate
Water: Beach access, and some streams near the coast
Highlights: Ocean, rocky beach, streams, large trees, wildlife
Note: Please check with NPS before you hike this route regarding the bridge closure
Directions to Damnation Creek Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the parking lot, take Damnation Creek Trail. The trail will ascend briefly before descending.
• Mile 0.5 – At the intersection with the Coastal Trail, keep right on Damnation Creek Trail.
• Mile 0.6 – Damnation Creek Trail intersects with the Coastal Trail again. Follow the sign for Damnation Creek Trail.
• Mile 2.1 – Hopefully you made it to the coast! Enjoy, then head back the way you came.
• Mile 4.2 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Damnation Creek Trailhead

Maps

• Damnation Creek Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Damnation Creek Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We woke up in our campsite at Gold Bluffs Beach in Redwood National & State Parks refreshed and ready to go. Our plan was to hike to the picturesque Fern Canyon, one of the most popular spots in the park. Ferns line its walls and a stream runs through it. Part of Jurassic Park 2 was filmed there due to its primeval appearance.

The trail to Fern Canyon is a 12.1 mile loop linking the James Irvine and Miner’s Ridge trails. We had read that it’s one of the best trails in the park due to its range of environments. From the redwood forest…to coastal sitka spruce forests…to the beach…to the fern canyon. Woody Guthrie would be proud.

If all you want to do is visit Fern Canyon, you can park in a (large but crowded) lot past Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. But we prefer the diversity offered by hiking in. The loop trail starts out at Prairie Creek Visitor Center on James Irvine Trail before arriving at Fern Canyon. After exploring the canyon, we hiked along the coast past Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, then headed back to the visitor center along Miner’s Ridge Trail.

Prairie Creek Trail

We should have left earlier for this hike. The lot at Prairie Creek Visitor Center was crowded, and only 30-minute parking was available. We settled for parking along the shoulder of a nearby road. From the visitor center, we followed signs for Prairie Creek Trail, which continued a short distance before intersecting with James Irvine Trail.

The start of Prairie Creek Trail features wooden bridges over Boyes and Prairie Creeks. Along the way were the first big redwood trees we had seen. Looking up at them was almost spiritual. Although we saw many redwood trees during our trip, I’ll always remember the first time we saw them, and the sense of wonder I felt.

Redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) are the tallest trees on Earth. They can live for thousands of years and grow up to 380 feet tall. In 1850, there were two million acres of redwood trees along the California coast. For this reason, they are sometimes referred to as coastal redwoods. Today, there are just 110,000 acres of old-growth redwoods (trees that have not been cut down or significantly disturbed). This represents about 7% of the current total 1.6 million acres of coastal redwoods.

James Irvine Trail

Initially, we shared the trail with many other hikers, since it leaves from the visitor center. About 0.2 miles into the hike, we turned right onto James Irvine Trail. The trail is rolling without any huge sustained elevation gains. We left the majority of the crowds behind, but still ran into people occasionally on this part of the trail.

James Irvine, the trail’s namesake, lived from 1867 to 1947. He was a member of the Save the Redwoods League. His financial support allowed the league to purchase and protect more of the redwood forest.

The trail has ferns, redwoods, and other greenery everywhere. Being there elicited a mystical feeling and made me feel small, like a little kid. We kept stopping to admire the unique trees and say, “Wow, cool!”

The ground seemed to be covered with purple flowers. When we stopped to take a closer look, we discovered that they weren’t flowers, but purple leaves. It was the underside of Redwood Sorrel, which look similar to clovers. The top of the leaves are green and the bottoms are purple.

I enjoy looking for wildlife, but it can be tricky to get good photos. Some creatures make it a bit easier by moving slower. On James Irvine Trail, we found our first banana slug (Ariolimax columbianus). Later on, we found them all over the place, but it was always exciting to spot them. I know it’s a slug and all, but compared to the slugs at home it’s huge and bright yellow! So it’s special. The slug is widespread in the pacific northwest and can grow up to 7 inches long.

We passed the intersection with Miner’s Ridge Trail, which would be our return route. It would be another 4.4 miles until we reached Fern Canyon. Along the way, we also passed Clintonia Trail, which can be used to create a shorter loop (though you’d skip Fern Canyon and Gold Bluffs Beach). As we got closer to the coast, we saw fewer redwoods and more sitka spruce trees. Redwoods don’t like the ocean’s salt spray and wind, so they don’t grow near the coast.

Fern Canyon

As we approached the intersection with Fern Canyon Trail, a sign stated that the trail entrance was closed. I was pretty bummed, thinking we wouldn’t be able to see Fern Canyon. Kristin kept my spirits up as we continued hiking toward the coast.

Upon reaching the other side of Fern Canyon, we were relieved to find that it was accessible there. A steady stream of people headed into the canyon from the nearby parking lot. Home Creek flows through the canyon, with its pebble-covered sandy beaches on either side. The park service had placed seasonal wood planks over the creek so visitors wouldn’t have to trudge through water. Layers of moss and ferns lined the canyon walls, as rivulets of water cascaded down.

Deeper into the canyon we went, over fallen logs, across the creek. It was spectacular, undoubtedly the most memorable part of our hike. The trail only goes back so far before we reached downed trees, logs, and debris blocking the route further into the canyon. We assumed this was why we saw the closure sign earlier. We retraced our steps out of the canyon.

Gold Bluffs Beach

Immediately after passing through Fern Canyon, the trail brought us out into the sunlight. We were no longer surrounded by large trees, and we approached the beach. Our next stop would be Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, where we were staying. We had two route options: the gravel road, or along the beach.

The beach sounded like a more interesting option. The Coastal Trail runs along the beach throughout much of Redwood National Park, and we found the access trail by Fern Canyon Parking Lot (near the restrooms). Unfortunately, as we got closer to the beach, we ran into a flooded swampy area. We had the option to hike through it, but we chickened out and went back to the gravel road.

We recommend checking out the Coastal Trail if you can get there. The gravel road was nothing special, but it was easy going despite a few streams that crossed it. We had to watch out for the occasional car that trundled its way past us on the way to or from Fern Canyon.

Soon we arrived at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, which finally felt warm and sunny! We decided to rest at our campsite for a couple minutes and just enjoy it. After walking to the beach, we wished we hadn’t already eaten our lunch. Then it was time to tackle Miner’s Ridge.

Miner’s Ridge Trail

The trail starts across the gravel road from the campground. It leads into the forest en route to Prairie Creek Visitor Center in 4.6 miles. By now we were tired, and we had a growing number of blisters on our feet. That’s what we get for not hiking much prior to the trip. We put some moleskin and band-aids on our feet and continued on.

Since we were near the coast, we began seeing more sitka spruce. But as we hiked inland, redwoods slowly started popping up again. Soon we passed a tsunami evacuation site. Signs on various trails warn that you’ve entered a tsunami area, so if ever the worst happens, head up Miner’s Ridge Trail.

Much of Miner’s Ridge Trail is similar to James Irvine Trail. We saw plenty of big trees, but after hours of hiking they just don’t seem as spectacular as they did at the beginning. It’s sad to say, but they were amazing again by our next hike. We saw wildflowers, crossed more bridges and streams, and enjoyed the sun streaming through the trees.

By the time we reached the visitor center, the parking lot was empty. The field nearby glowed as the sun began to set. There were no elk in sight, though it seemed like a good time and place to spot one.

We wished we had done this hike a bit later in our trip when we had gotten our “hiking legs” back. We also wished we had set out earlier in the day, since this hike is a longer one. Overall, it’s a fun hike that shows off many interesting and diverse park features.

James Irvine and Miner’s Ridge Loop Trail with Fern Canyon

Date Visited: July 18, 2017
Type: Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 12.1 miles (19.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2685 feet (818 m)
Time: 7.5 hours which includes lunch and rest breaks
Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections
Difficulty: Strenuous, due to the distance
Crowds: Minimal, except at Prairie Creek Visitor Center and Fern Canyon
Water: The ocean, few creeks that are crossed, stream through Fern Canyon
Highlights: Large redwood trees, fern canyon, primeval forests, beach and ocean coastline, solitude, wildlife, streams
Note: You can do this hike in either direction. We don’t see an advantage to either. If the back entrance of Fern Canyon is open, you can hike through there without backtracking through the canyon. To get to Miner’s Ridge Trail from Fern Canyon, you can either walk along the road or try the Coastal Trail.
Directions to Prairie Creek Visitor Center: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Prairie Creek Visitor Center, walk north until you see the trailhead sign for Prairie Creek Trail. Turn right onto the trail, and go over a bridge. Marvel at the redwood trees.
• Mile 0.1 – Continue straight at the intersection
• Mile 0.2 – Continue straight at the intersection with West Ridge Trail for 60 feet. Turn right onto James Irvine Trail.
• Mile 0.9 – Intersection with Miner’s Ridge Trail; keep right to continue on James Irvine Trail
• Mile 3.3 – Continue straight on James Irvine Trail. Clintonia Trail, to your left, could be used to make a shorter loop
• Mile 4.7 – Intersection with Friendship Ridge Trail; continue straight
• Mile 5.0 – Intersection with the back entrance to Fern Canyon Trail. If it’s closed, continue straight on James Irvine. If it’s open, you can go left onto Fern Canyon Trail. These directions assume the back entrance is closed.
• Mile 5.3 – Front entrance of Fern Canyon. Go in as far as you can, following Home Creek. Once you can’t go any further, double back to the canyon entrance
• Mile 6.1 – Once back at the entrance to Fern Canyon, turn left onto Gold Bluffs Trail
• Mile 6.3 – At the Fern Canyon parking lot; restrooms (outhouses) are available. Two choices: you can either take the gravel road (Gold Bluffs Beach Road), or you can take the Coastal Trail along the beach (access trail at the back of Fern Canyon parking lot). We chose the gravel road because the connecting path was flooded.
• Mile 7.5 – Take Miner’s Ridge Trail which leads into the forest on the left. You’ll see a tsunami evacuation site after a couple minutes on the trail. If you want to check out Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, it’s 500 feet beyond the Miner’s Ridge Trail and gravel road intersection.
• Mile 9.5 – At the intersection with Clintonia Trail. Continue straight on Miner’s Ridge Trail.
• Mile 11.3 – You’ve completed the loop and are back on James Irvine Trail. Continue straight.
• Mile 11.9 – Turn left at this intersection. 60 feet later, you’ll come to another intersection with West Ridge Trail. Continue straight.
• Mile 12.0 – Intersection with Prairie Creek Trail – continue straight
• Mile 12.1 – Back at Prairie Creek Visitor Center!

Places

• Fern Canyon | 41.4016634, -124.0737641
• Gold Bluffs Beach Campground | 41.3835728,-124.0717255
• Prairie Creek Visitor Center | Newton B. Drury Scenic Pkwy, Orick, CA 95555

Maps

• James Irvine-Miner’s Ridge Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Reservations for Gold Bluffs Beach Campground
• NPS Article on Banana Slugs
• NPS Article on Redwood Trees
• Save the Redwoods League – Coast Redwoods
• Orange Coast Article About James Irvine

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post James Irvine and Miner’s Ridge Trails with Fern Canyon appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Rose River in Shenandoah National Park has been on our to-do list for awhile.  Several attempts in the past floundered due to laziness or something coming up at the last minute.  We’d made it to Mathews Arm Campground for the weekend, so we took the opportunity to finally hike Rose River Loop.

The hike is located off Skyline Drive in Shenandoah’s Central District, across from Big Meadows Campground.  We decided to make a 5.1 mile loop that included Dark Hollow Falls.  We prefer loops over out-and-backs because we don’t have to hike a section more than once.  Dark Hollow Falls is a spectacular waterfall, and a short hike from Skyline Drive.  Naturally, it was very crowded when we visited.

Fisher’s Gap

There were two options for parking:  Fisher’s Gap or Dark Hollow Falls trailhead.  Fisher’s Gap is located around mile marker 49.5 on Skyline Drive; Dark Hollow Falls is at 50.5.  We decided on Fisher’s Gap, because it was the first parking lot we encountered as we drove south from Mathew’s Arm Campground.  We also figured Dark Hollow Falls parking lot would be full, since that section of trail is very popular (spoiler alert: it was).  For that reason I’d recommend parking at Fisher’s Gap.

We turned onto a dirt road near mile marker 49.5. The small parking lot was full, but this wasn’t Fisher’s Gap. It was access to Red Gate Fire Road, though a gate blocks vehicular access further in.  Next to it is Fisher’s Gap Overlook, a paved parking area that had plenty of available spots.  After parking, we walked south toward Skyline Drive, passing the Appalachian Trail on our right.  When we reached Skyline Drive we saw the crosswalk for Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail, where our hike began.

Horse Trail to Big Meadows

We walked on the right shoulder of Skyline Drive, and then headed uphill on the yellow-blazed Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Though we didn’t see any horses nor any…evidence of horses.  Only other hikers.  This trail leads to Big Meadows Campground in 1.4 miles, where we would cross Skyline Drive, then hike to Dark Hollow Falls.  After the waterfall, we would hike Rose River Trail, which leads back to Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap.

Trees surrounded us as we gradually ascended Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail. The sunlight streaming through the trees both relaxed and energized us. As we hiked, we noticed stone trail markers every ½ mile, which we assume are for horseback riders.

As we approached Big Meadows Campground, two deer – a doe and fawn – crashed through the underbrush.  We must have startled them, because once they spotted us, they slowed down and started browsing for food by the trail.  They’d clearly become accustomed to people. After observing the deer at a safe distance and giving them the right of way, we continued on.

The trail continued until we reached a stream crossing.  While easy for horses to cross, it’s a bit harder for humans.  Looking to our left we saw a bridge further downstream.  We followed the creek bank to the bridge, but we realized we didn’t need to cross it. If we had waded through the stream crossing, our route would have immediately turned left and then taken another left across the bridge, to where we now stood. So we were on Story of the Forest trail.

As we walked, Hogcamp Branch flowed on our right. It would later join with other streams and become Dark Hollow Falls.  A short 0.2 mile hike later, we got to Skyline Drive.  Across the road we saw the Dark Hollow Falls parking lot, jam-packed with cars.  We had seen a few hikers so far, but starting here we’d see more than we could count until we passed Dark Hollow Falls.

Dark Hollow Falls Trail

We crossed Skyline Drive and turned left onto blue-blazed Dark Hollow Falls Trail, which rapidly descends.  The entire way down to the main waterfall, 0.7 miles, Hogcamp Branch runs to our right.  There are a few places that are worth a stop and/or photo on the way down, with small cascades or swimming holes.  But we had to share them with lots of visitors, not that we expected to have it all to ourselves.

The trail was wet and muddy from rain the previous day.  It’s also rocky and steep in places, but otherwise manageable.  The return trip would be more of a challenge due to the incline.  We reached the upper falls overlook, and looked out over the wooden fence.  Many visitors trudged past the upper falls, without stopping.  They are worth a look, but you can get closer to the even more dramatic lower falls.

Dark Hollow Falls flows down multiple levels over 70 vertical feet.  It’s been a rainy summer this year (2018), so the volume of water was impressive.  We snapped some photos from a distance as we waited…and waited…for other groups to take their close-ups and selfies. Finally it was our turn, so we quickly captured the falls before another park visitor could jump in front of us.

Before long, we moved on and were glad to leave the bulk of people behind.  We wanted to eat lunch, but it definitely would not be at Dark Hollow Falls.  Most hikers retrace their steps here and go back up Dark Hollow Falls Trail.  Not us, we continue going down and Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends at Rose River Fire Road.  At the fire road, we turned right and crossed Hogcamp Branch via a bridge.

As we crossed the bridge, we saw a peaceful waterfall on the right.  It seemed like a nice place to stop and eat lunch.  But as we sat down, a large and boisterous group of boy scouts stopped to take a break here, too.  So we left, in search of a quieter lunch spot.  Right after the bridge, we turned left onto Rose River Loop Trail.  For a shorter loop from Fisher’s Gap, we could have also made a route with Rose River Loop Trail and Rose River Fire Road, though this route skips Dark Hollow Falls.

Rose River Loop Trail

We continued our descent with Hogcamp Branch on our left. Rose River Loop Trail is less steep than Dark Hollow Falls Trail, but slick rock, mud, and water made the trail slippery.  Trekking poles were helpful on this section.  The trail was less crowded than Dark Hollow Falls, though we ran into a few other groups.

Soon we found what we were looking for: a large rock by the stream where we could have lunch.  We took a break and enjoyed the sounds of the water rushing by as we ate.  Once satiated, we continued our hike along the gurgling stream. There are no big waterfalls on this section, but it’s pleasant with small waterfalls and cascades. 

0.8 miles after Rose River Fire Road, we reached a picturesque bridge that goes across Hogcamp Branch.  Soon after the bridge, we ran into an intermittent stream that we need to cross. Since there had been so much rain, this stream was flowing strong, but we got across without any trouble.

At this point, the trail finally starts to head uphill with Rose River on our right.  The initial incline was a bit of a shock to our systems and we were slow to make progress.  But once in a rhythm, we made good time up to Rose River Falls.  The waterfall itself is 67 feet high, only three feet less than Dark Hollow Falls.  To my eyes though, it’s not as impressive.  At the base of the falls were a few people that had hiked off trail and were outrageously loud and screaming. It diminished our enjoyment of the waterfall a bit.  We would have lingered more if it weren’t for them.  We continued our uphill hike and eventually left behind Rose River when the trail veered west.

After 0.7 miles, we reached an intersection and were back on Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Only half a mile to go.  We passed an older couple going the opposite way.  They asked if it was worth it.  Assuming they meant Rose River Falls, I said definitely!  I silently hoped the loud people would be gone by the time they got there.

Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail intersects with Rose River Fire Road.  We crossed the road, the horse trail continuing on the other side.  And a few minutes later we were back where we started on Skyline Drive. 

The waterfalls, which appear on many “best of” lists, are highlights of Shenandoah National Park.  Dark Hollow Falls is more impressive than Rose River Falls, in my opinion.  Just know you won’t have it all to yourself.

Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trails

Dates: September 29, 2018
Type: Loop
Total Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1675 feet (511 m)
Time: 4.5 hours hiking which includes lunch, photography and rest breaks
Trail Markings: Well marked with yellow and blue blazes
Difficulty: Moderate, good elevation gain
Crowds:  Lots of people on Dark Hollow Falls Trail, and a moderate number on the other trails
Water: Plenty of streams, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Waterfalls, streams, wildlife
Directions to Fisher’s Gap Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot, head southwest, toward Skyline Drive.  There is a crosswalk, but don’t cross it.  Head right, uphill on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail.
• Mile 1.2 – You’ll see a stream crossing straight ahead.  If the stream is low, cross it and turn left on Story of the Forest Trail, then cross a bridge.  If the stream is too high, turn left and take the social trail to the same bridge.  You’ll be on Story of the Forest Trail without needing to cross the stream.  Go south on the trail, which is blue-blazed.
• Mile 1.3 – Story of the Forest trail turns right here, across a stone bridge.  You’ll go straight onto Story of the Forest/Dark Hollow Connector Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – Continue straight, going across Skyline Drive.  You’ll see the parking lot for Dark Hollow Falls and the Trailhead sign.  Turn left onto Dark Hollow Falls Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Upper Dark Hollow Falls Viewpoint
• Mile 2.1 – Lower Dark Hollow Falls
• Mile 2.2 – Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends; turn right onto Rose River Fire Road, which is yellow-blazed.  Head right over a bridge with another waterfall on your right.  Immediately after the bridge, turn left onto the blue-blazed Rose River Loop Trail. 
• Mile 3.7 – Rose River Falls
• Mile 4.4 – Continue straight on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 4.9 – Cross Rose River Fire Road and continue on Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 5.1 – Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot

Places

• Fisher’s Gap Overlook Parking Lot | 38.53409, -78.42457 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 49.5
• Dark Hollow Falls Parking Lot | 38.51967, -78.43136 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 50.5
• Dark Hollow Falls | 8.51873,-78.43174
• Rose River Falls | 38.53151,-78.41709
• Big Meadows Campground | 38.52815,-78.43880 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 51

Maps

• Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Big Meadows Campground Map (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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