One of the top tourist attractions in the Japanese Alps is the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (立山黒部アルペンルート). Located in northern Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen), the route takes visitors on a journey through the mountains. The trip involves multiple modes of transportation such as bus, trolley, and cable car. Highlights of the Alpine Route include the snow corridor, hiking trails, the Midagahara wetlands, Kurobe Dam, volcanic features, and scenic views. Each stop along the route has its own personality and attractions.

The Alpine Route is only accessible from mid-April through November due to snow accumulation. Hotels, mountain huts, and campgrounds are located along the route, so you can make your trip as long or short as you like. We chose to spend one night in Midagahara Hotel (弥陀ヶ原), just below the apex of the route.

Murodo, the highest point along the Alpine Route, is home to Mount Tate (立山, Tateyama). We hoped to climb it as a day hike, but ended up exploring hiking trails at Midagahara instead due to time constraints. We were able to check out the volcanic area around Murodo known as Hell Valley. Murodo also boasts a picturesque but pricey lodging option called Hotel Tateyama.

Day 1 – Toyama to Midagahara

The day after we completed our backpacking trip to Mount Yari (Yarigatake), we took a bus from Shinhotaka Onsen to Toyama. Our journey officially began in Toyama, on the west side of the Alpine Route. Alternately, you could start on the east side, in Shinano Omachi.

A train took us from the Dentetsu Toyama Station to Tateyama Station. As with all our train rides in Japan, it was wonderful. We passed lots of verdant rice farmland along the way. After arriving at Tateyama Station, we awaited our second mode of transportation: a cable car to Bijodaira.

Our final type of transportation for the day was a bus, which took us to Midagahara. The bus goes all the way to Murodo, but you can press a “stop button” to get off earlier. Plenty of other people got off at Midagahara too, so we didn’t need to press it ourselves. The bus ride was peaceful, and had some decent views. The guide pointed out Shomyo Falls – the tallest waterfall in Japan – on the left side, though it was hard to see. For a better view, you can take a bus from Tateyama Station, followed by a short hike.

We got off the bus at Midagahara, and checked into the western style hotel, naturally called Midagahara Hotel. They upgraded our room when we checked in. We had reserved a twin room, but we ended up with a larger room with a lovely view and three beds! …score? Midagahara is known for its surrounding wetlands, so our plan was to go hike!

Day 1 – Midagahara Boardwalk Outer Course Hike

A network of trails runs throughout the park, and behind Midagahara Hotel are a couple recommended circuits – an inner loop, and a larger outer loop. The outer loop is only 2.1 km (1.3 mi), so we decided on that one. The trail begins on a boardwalk, which is the best place to hike in my opinion. Hiking over water allows you to access places and plant life you wouldn’t normally be able to.

There were wildflowers along the hike, but figuring out what they all are takes some work! The views out from the boardwalk were gorgeous, with clouds that looked like steam escaping from the earth. Around the path are “Gaki-no-ta,” or small ponds. They look like rice paddy fields, and are said to have been created by a hungry demon. The reflections in the pool gave the area an ethereal ambiance.

Every so often the hotel does a guided tour of the wetlands. And we ran right into the group. The only bad thing about boardwalks is there’s not much room to get around people. The guided group stopped frequently to hear the guide (who was speaking Japanese, otherwise we would have joined). Eventually, we got around the group and continued past the turnoff for the inner loop.

The trail transitions back and forth from a stone path to a boardwalk, and crosses a small stream. It feels more confined in this section, with bamboo grass surrounding the trail. Near the end of the loop, we spotted some snow next to the trail – and it was mid-July!

Asian skunk cabbage was just starting to blossom near the trail. The hotel was in view at this point, so we headed that way. The last unique wildflower we saw was a type of purple marsh orchid, which excited me since I always love seeing any kind of orchid. Overall, we really enjoyed our short hike.

Back at the hotel, it was time for dinner. It included a regional specialty called shiroebitei – raw white shrimp sashimi from Toyama Bay. We weren’t quite sure how to eat them, but we really enjoyed this delicacy. There was also a Wagyu beef hot pot (it was amazing) and a selection of other delicious food.

Day 2 – Murodo

Early the next morning, we caught a bus to Murodo, the highest point along the Alpine Route. Near the top is a popular destination called the “snow corridor,” where the road can have snow walls up to 20 meters (66 feet) high on both sides. Spring is the best time to experience it, and the bus will stop so visitors can get out and explore. The snow walls were significantly lower when we visited in the summer, but we still enjoyed our brief glimpse from the bus window. As we expected, the temperature in this area was much cooler than it had been at lower elevation.

The bus dropped us off at the Murodo Bus Terminal, and we promptly went to explore. There are a multitude of trails nearby, and we decided to do a short loop hike around Mikurigaike Pond. Mikurigaike and other nearby ponds are volcanic, meaning (we think) that they were formed in a caldera after a volcanic eruption, and later filled with rainwater and snowmelt.

A typhoon was impacting the area, so it was very foggy and a bit rainy. We plunged into the murky fog as we started the trail across stone-lined paths. Notably, snow covered some parts of the trail.

Our first stop was Mikurigaike Pond, which was surrounded by snow. Around this time, the clouds started to lift, revealing much appreciated blue sky. The ponds seemed to come to life as they reflected sky overhead. Near Mikurigaike, we spotted a rock ptarmigan, known as raichō (雷鳥) in Japan. There’s a population of about 350 of them in the Murodo area, and we were lucky to spot one. They’re not afraid of people, so I was able to get a close-up photo.

Next, we passed Jigokudani (Hell Valley), a volcanic area that reminded me of Yellowstone National Park. A trail passes through it, but it had been closed due to a high concentration of volcanic gases. However, we could look down at the steam vents to see the gases rising from the area. Mikurigaike Onsen is located near the trail to Jigokudani, if you want to stop for a soak.

We continued onto a side trail toward Rindouike Pond, which was covered with snow, so the view was a little disappointing. We spotted some Chinoike, or Blood Ponds, which appear reddish due to the high concentration of iron oxide. The air smelled heavily of sulfur along this section of trail, so we turned around and headed back to the loop once the smell became too pervasive.

Midorigaike Pond was our next sight. Smaller than Mikurigaike, it was very picturesque and lined with wildflowers. Mount Tateyama rises up behind the pond, though its summit was obscured by clouds. We passed Tateyama Murodo Mountain Hut, and then finished our loop. It was lunch time, so we ate our onigiri bento from Midagahara Hotel. Afterward, we decided to continue along the Alpine Route. I wish we had more time to explore Murodo, particularly to hike Mount Tateyama.

Day 2 – Kurobe Dam

We climbed aboard a trolley, our fourth mode of transportation. It took us through Mount Tateyama via a tunnel, en route to Daikanbo. At Daikanbo, an observation station affords great views of the surrounding mountains. Kristin found an interesting snack here which we hadn’t seen before: gohei mochi, which is basically grilled mochi covered in a sweet soy sauce. It’s a specialty of the surrounding mountainous region of Central Japan. It was delicious and we bought more at every opportunity going forward.

From Daikanbo, we boarded our fifth unique mode of transport, a ropeway down to Kurobedaira. We enjoyed the views, but it was too crowded to get any good photos. From there, we took a cable car to Kurobe Dam.

The sixth mode of transport is simply walking across the dam itself. Built between 1956 and 1963, the dam is on a grand scale and provides gorgeous views of the Kurobe River. As we walked across, water gushed through the open spillway.

The dam is a true tourist attraction, and its many platforms provide a variety of spectacular views. We tried to capture the essence of the dam through photos, but its massive size made our task difficult. After scoping out a few different perspectives, we continued on the Alpine Route. We took our seventh and final mode of transport: an electric bus which traveled through a tunnel to Ogizawa. From there, we took a bus to Shinano Omachi, the terminus of the route.

The Alpine Route was such a unique experience, and it allowed us to see so much of central Japan in a relatively short time. If you have time, we highly recommend checking it out. However, what we did is only a snippet of what’s available, as there are many other attractions along the route. Our next destination would be something completely different: we would travel south to Itsukushima (厳島), also known as Miyajima or “Shrine Island,” in Setonaikai National Park.

Links

• Official Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route Website (English)
• Wikipedia: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (English)
• Japan Guide: Alpine Route (English)
• Japan Guide: Midagahara (English)
• Midagahara Hotel (English)
• Japan Guide: Murodo (English)

Map

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On our final day in Crater Lake National Park, we checked out of Crater Lake Lodge, and simply walked to our trail. Garfield Peak Trail begins just off of Rim Village Drive adjacent to the lodge, though we wouldn’t reach the trailhead sign for 0.2 miles. With easy access from the lake’s south rim, the trail is convenient and popular.

Garfield Peak was named after James Rudolph Garfield, who was Secretary of the Interior when the park was established in 1902. Fun historical fact: this James Garfield was the son of James A. Garfield, the 20th U.S. president.

The 3.4 mile trail to Garfield Peak is often closed (or partially closed) due to snow, even late in the season. It was July 31, and we would be able to hike 1.4 miles of the 1.7 miles (one way), so the final 0.3 miles to the peak was still off-limits. I’m glad that didn’t deter us, as there is so much to see on this trail.

Garfield Peak Trail

The best feature of Garfield Peak Trail is its location next to Crater Lake. Other trails, like Watchman Peak, are adjacent to the lake – but Garfield Peak Trail is designed to allow better and more consistent views of the lake than any other trail (barring Cleetwood Cove, perhaps). It also provides views of geological features, wildflowers, the lodge, and more.

Garfield Peak Trail is a straight shot up to the top – no intersections. After a short walk, we passed the trail sign, then hiked through some pine trees before reaching an open area. The trail ascended until we came to a bench with a great view of Crater Lake. Some ground squirrels ran around as we took a break and enjoyed the view.

The trail weaved back and forth through switchbacks as we continued. Though the trail route and rock formations blocked our view of Crater Lake in some spots, it always seemed to be waiting for us a few moments later. Wildflowers like Indian paintbrush and fireweed bloomed along the trail.

On our right, we had scenic views of the mountains and Crater Lake Lodge (which we highly recommend, by the way). The dusty trail passed some rock formations, and on the other side we got another view of Crater Lake.

Looking out, we spotted a small white dot on the lake – a tour boat! It reminded us of our adventure the previous day, when we took a boat tour of Crater Lake. We also caught a glimpse of Union Peak, another hike in the park we wished we had time for.

Snow Time

Looking out over the lake, we saw a large snowfield below the rim. As the snow melts, it forms waterfalls that fill the lake. But wait – there’s more! Back on the trail, we approached another snowfield that we’d have to cross. The park had posted signs to direct hikers through the snow.

By this time, other hikers had worn a trail through the snow that was easy enough to follow, even without signs. It was a bit slippery, and we used our trekking poles for balance as we hiked through this section.

Finally across the snowfield, we stepped back onto soil. Crater Lake came into view again, as did Phantom Ship and Mount Scott. Further down the trail, we were stopped by snow again. This time, there was no going through or around it. A sign announced that the trail was closed beyond that point. In a week or two, the trail would probably be open to the summit, but this was the end for us.

It was disappointing to stop short of the summit, but Garfield Peak is still one of my favorite trails in the park. We were lucky to hike it at all, since it had been closed when we arrived a week prior. Garfield Peak Trail is unique due to its panoramic views of Crater Lake and various landmarks along the way. We really enjoyed this trail, and it solidified many of the memories we had made on our trip to Crater Lake.

Garfield Peak Trail

Dates: Monday, July 31, 2017
Type: Out and back dayhike
Total Distance: 3.4 miles (5.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1170 feet (357 m)
Time: 2.5 hours round trip for us, not including the last 0.6 miles (round-trip), which was closed due to snow.
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Moderate
Water: Views of Crater Lake, and snow if you like
Highlights: Views, Wildflowers, Rock Formations
Directions to Crater Lake Lodge Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Park near the lodge, then follow the paved path east along the rim of Crater Lake.
• 0.2 – The trail transitions to a dirt path at a trail sign for Garfield Peak. While the sign says 3.4 miles round-trip, that distance begins at the lodge.
• 1.7 – You’ve arrived at the top of Garfield Peak (snow permitting)! Enjoy, then turn around and go back the way you came.
• 3.4 – Back at Crater Lake Lodge

Places

• Garfield Peak Trailhead | 42.909489, -122.1413882

Maps

• Garfield Peak Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Garfield Peak (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Garfield Peak Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

So far in Crater Lake National Park, we had hiked some lesser known trails like Boundary Springs. It was finally time to do some more “popular” hikes. Today we decided to hike Mount Scott, a 4.3 mile out and back trail located on the eastern side of the park. The trail ascends 1318 feet, and features views of Crater Lake and the surrounding mountains. Mount Scott is the highest point in Crater Lake National Park at 8929 feet and is named after Levi Scott (1797–1890), an Oregon politician and pioneer.

After getting a late start, around 11 a.m., we peered over steep cliffs on the side of Rim Road as our car weaved its way up to the trailhead. The parking lot was full – it’s small given Mt. Scott’s popularity. Thankfully, a short distance beyond was a picnic area that had some parking. It also had a pit toilet, which the lot at the trailhead lacks.

Mt. Scott Trail

Carefully, we walked along the narrow shoulder of the road to the trailhead. Even in late July, a small snowfield partially covered the beginning of the trail and other areas of the mountain. Some hikers went around, and some trudged through.

Initially, the trail ascended gently, but quickly became steeper and more exposed to the sun. On a warm summer day, we were glad to have the occasional tree to take a break under, as well as a slight breeze. We ascended up switchbacks, which allowed for beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. While we stopped to admire the mountain view, we realized Crater Lake was already visible!

As usual, I stopped to check out some wildflowers. An older couple passed us and the man asked, “Oh, are you a wildflower guy too?” That made us smile (I am). We chatted briefly and he told us about a type of flower higher up that looked like something from Dr. Seuss. The fluffy flower was a called a Western Pasqueflower and we soon found it.

Not surprisingly, the views improved as we ascended, though they were partially obstructed by trees in places. The trail is steep and narrow. There were a lot of other hikers on the trail; if you’re looking for solitude, this isn’t the hike for you. We also had some unexpected guests: butterflies. Hundreds, maybe thousands of them!

As we hiked, we could hear wings flapping, and butterflies continually ran (flew?) into us, which was somewhat disconcerting. It was certainly a surprise! Ascending higher only made more appear. Why were there so many? We didn’t find out the answer until later; they were California tortoiseshell butterflies, and they appear every 5-6 years, possibly because of a migration event. Lucky us, we just happened to time it right.

Mountain Ridge and Fire Tower

Hiking further up, we passed three firefighters descending the mountain. With several active wildfires in the park, we weren’t too surprised to see them. There’s a fire tower at the peak, though there is no public access.

Switchbacks are annoying, but the turns allowed us to take in the views. Finally, we came to a ridge, which leads to the fire tower. As we walked along the narrow gravelly ridge, we enjoyed a breeze, as well as more breathtaking views of Crater Lake to the left and mountains to the right.

Butterflies swarmed over the ridge. We stopped to take in the phenomenon. They were flying over our heads, but they didn’t bother or land on us. It was time for lunch, so we ate near the fire tower. A ground squirrel appeared and ran around us. It had probably been fed by other tourists, so we made sure to protect our food.

After lunch, we began the steep and rocky descent. Trekking poles helped minimize the impact to our knees, and we definitely recommend them. We saw a couple pushing a stroller – probably not recommended with the rock and loose gravel, especially near the top. Although it was very warm, hikers continued to ascend in the mid-afternoon.

Mount Scott Trail has a steady incline, loose dirt and gravel, and plenty of sun exposure. The trailhead sign states that it’s strenuous, though a seasoned hiker might find it moderate. We enjoyed the trail and views, and the butterflies made it an almost otherworldly experience. Our recommendations: visit on a weekday, arrive early to avoid crowds as much as possible, and choose a day with milder weather since there isn’t much shade. Enjoy!

Mount Scott Trail

Dates: Saturday, July 29, 2017
Type: Out and back hike
Total Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km) round-trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1,318 feet (402 m)
Time: 3 hours, including lunch and lots of photo breaks
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Very populated
Water: None; views of Crater Lake
Highlights: Views, fire tower, snow, wildflowers, butterflies
Note: If main parking lot is full, look for the picnic area further north
Directions to Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the trailhead, follow the trail. You might cross a couple snowfields before starting the ascent up switchbacks.
• 2.2 – Arrive at the top of the mountain. Check out the sweeping views and fire tower, then head back down the way you came.
• 4.3 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Mount Scott Trailhead | 42.9316667, -122.0323522

Maps

• Mount Scott Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Butterflies News Article
• Levi Scott (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Mount Scott Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.