Glacier National Park was on our bucket list, and we were both super excited to visit. Due to the popularity of the park, we had to plan a full year in advance. It can be difficult to secure campgrounds, hotels, and backcountry permits, so planning ahead is essential.

Our trip would begin on the west side of the park, and gradually head east over our three-week trip. We planned to spend our first two nights at Fish Creek Campground in Glacier’s Lake McDonald district.

Fish Creek is a large campground with 178 sites, which makes reserving a site a bit easier compared to other campgrounds in the park (like the popular and centrally located Many Glacier Campground). Most sites are released over a six-month rolling basis, except for a few sites, which have a 4-day window. The day we booked, we managed to get the site we wanted (C110) near Lake McDonald.

The campground has four loops – A, B, C, and D. Each loop is a bit different. We chose C loop for its access to Lake McDonald, fairly private sites, and because generators are prohibited. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites seemed less private, particularly on the inner loop. Loops A and B are farther from the lake and have less tree cover. Loop A has the only showers in the entire campground, though you could easily drive over to them. Loop B has more RV spots than other loops, so we avoided that.

Important Note: Grizzly and black bears frequent the area. Bear boxes are available near the restrooms; otherwise keep all food and scented items in your car for your safety and that of wildlife. Park rangers do patrol the area and issue fines for noncompliance.

Arriving at Fish Creek Campground

We flew into Kalispell, then picked up our rental car and supplies before heading into the park. Speaking of which, don’t forget to buy or rent bear spray – we bought ours from a nearby REI. From Kalispell it was around a one hour drive to the campground. On the way, we stopped at the Apgar Backcountry Office to confirm some of our upcoming backpacking permits.

Afterwards, we drove the short distance to Fish Creek Campground and checked in. Our site, C110, is a pull through to a cozy setup with a picnic table and fire ring. A water pump is located close by, and a short path leads to Lake McDonald. Our campsite had plenty of tree cover and it was nice and quiet – we liked it already!

Once we set up our tent, we walked over to Lake McDonald. There were plenty of multicolored rocks on the lakebed, visible through the clear pure water. Nearby, some kids were playing in the lake, but it still seemed so calm and peaceful. It’s the kind of place you could read a book, or simply relax and enjoy the view.

It was dinner time, and we had decided not to cook at our campsite (we were lazy). We drove 6 minutes into the nearby park town of Apgar, and got dinner at Eddie’s Cafe & Mercantile. It was the worst restaurant experience we’ve had in any national park. Our food took forever to arrive, the orders were wrong, and the food just wasn’t good. The attached ice cream shop was decent though, and they had some vegan sorbet options for Kristin. Since we visited, Eddie’s has changed concessionaires and undergone a significant renovation in 2022. It’s larger, and looks more like a traditional lodge. So take our experience with a grain of salt.

After dinner, we walked over to Lake McDonald and enjoyed the view and ambiance. With the gentle waves lapping the lakeshore, and stunning multicolored rocks in Lake McDonald, it was a beautiful spot to relax and eat our ice cream. The area looked even more beautiful in the early evening light. It was so simple, and yet a memorable first night.

The campground was relatively quiet when we returned later that evening, which we appreciated. The air had gotten cooler, but it wasn’t yet “cold.” Even though it was only 9:30 p.m. and still light out, we passed out in our tent. We awoke overnight to the sound of bugling. Probably an elk near the lake, but we didn’t get up to check.

The next day we got up early to hike the nearby Avalanche Lake Trail. Afterward, we drove into Columbia Falls for dinner before returning to camp – again, not worrying about cooking at the campsite. Then we went by the lake and relaxed, took photos, and just enjoyed the campground. We dipped our feet into the lake, which was freezing cold. There’s also an amphitheater at Loop A where the park service holds ranger talks. We had wanted to attend one, but didn’t find the time. But we did stop by for a quick visit, and also check out the only showers in the campground.

Two nights was a short stay at Fish Creek. It’s a great campground, we recommend it and wished we had stayed longer – but we had more places to see in Glacier. Next we’d be heading east, over Logan Pass, all the way to Many Glacier.

Fish Creek Campground | 178 Campsites

Dates Visited: Saturday July 20, 2019 – Monday July 22, 2019
Location: 12 miles from the park’s West Glacier entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling
Dates Open: Mid-May to early September
Prices: $30/night for individual tent campsite
Reservations: 100% of sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. Otherwise, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Access to Lake McDonald, Tree Cover
Best Sites: Loop C due to privacy and Lake McDonald access. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites are not as private. Loops A and B are further from the lake and have less tree cover.
Notes: There are four tent only sites: C120, C121, C122, and D166. Two sites are not suitable for tents: C139 and C143. Generators are prohibited in Loop C. Four sites are hiker/biker only: A11a, A11b, A11c, and A11d.

Places

• Fish Creek Campground | Fish Creek Campground Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936
• Eddie’s Mercantile and Cafe | Apgar Village, 236 Apgar Lp Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936

Maps

• Fish Creek Campground Map (Wikipedia, may be outdated)

Links

• Glacier Campgrounds (NPS)
• Fish Creek Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)

Interactive Map

The post Fish Creek Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Moab Eats

One of our favorite Moab spots, 98 Center (named after its address), has a thoughtful and creative menu. They specialize in Asian (primarily Vietnamese) fusion in a trendy yet casual atmosphere. On our first visit, we ordered a pork banh mi and pho to share. The pho broth was delicious, with a light but well-developed flavor. Travis enjoyed it with a squeeze of fresh lime. We chatted with our waitress about how the restaurant caters to various diets (such as vegan, vegetarian, paleo, and keto) and how she’s influenced the menu.

We loved the cozy vibe, friendly and knowledgeable wait staff, and unique menu items so much we went back for a second visit. And did I mention the banh mi nachos?? So delicious, and they even put vegan cheese on mine.

The line was out the door when we arrived at Love Muffin Cafe. Once we made our way to the front, we both ordered the Bomber Burrito. I asked for no cheese (since I’m sensitive to dairy), and requested that it be marked since we got the same thing. They have a few vegan muffin options, including the Good Morning which has carrots and raisins, and Cranberry Bran, which I decided to try. Next, we found a spot at the “bar” and made ourselves at home. The food was tasty and the place has a funky vibe. The only thing I didn’t like was that my sandwich was not marked, as promised, and yes – they were mixed up.

During our visit in 2018, Travis waited in the line at the popular Quesadilla Mobilla while I went shopping around the corner. I had contemplated getting “The Vegan,” but didn’t for a few reasons. First, we had just finished breakfast. Second, their menu states that they don’t recommend that option. Maybe it’s a joke (I get it, it’s a quesadilla place), but that’s a terrible business move. Travis got the chicken one, and said it was amazing. It looked crispy and had lots of filling. If I could have eaten it, I would have!

Fast forward to 2019, and this time I wasn’t going to miss out. After waiting in another long line, the server said any quesadilla could be made with beans instead of cheese. I can’t even remember which I decided on, but guess what – it was delicious! And Travis’s, which had cheese of course, looked and smelled great too.

Milt’s is a super casual diner and a Moab institution. It was exactly the atmosphere we were looking for after a day of exploring Arches NP. Most of the seating is outdoors, but an employee announced that there were spots inside. It had gotten a bit chilly, so we headed in and sat at the bar. Travis ordered a bacon cheeseburger and tots. I ordered a buffalo burger and onion rings. It took about 35 mins, which they warned us about in advance. That also gave me time to enjoy the classic – even obscure – country tunes they were playing, which I happen to enjoy.

The food came out hot, and my onion rings were crispy and delicious. They had “fry sauce” on the counter (which the waiter said was a mix of ketchup, mayo, salt, and pepper) which was amazing. I snagged a few tots from Travis and they were nice and crispy on the outside too. Travis got an Oreo milkshake, which he said was good, but it wasn’t as thick as he would like, and chunks of cookie got stuck in the straw. But in my opinion, if you’re gonna get an Oreo milkshake, you can’t really complain about that. Travis said Snack Shack near Redwood NP had a better shake, but he still recommends Milt’s.

We didn’t eat at Sabaku Sushi on our first trip because we questioned how good a sushi place in the middle of Utah could possibly be. It turns out – very. They have plenty of spicy options. In fact, if you’re sensitive to spice, you may want to ask your server to ensure you know what you’re getting.

We shared the Fiery Furnace Roll, which is spicy tuna plus tempura bits on the outside, and spicy sauce on top (which I removed). We also got a Rainbow Bridge Roll which is a standard rainbow roll with fresh fish on top. Travis got tempura which he enjoyed, but some pieces (such as sweet potato) were not cooked through. The Sandstone Crunch Roll – shishito pepper, tempura, avocado, and salmon – was tasty, but one super spicy bite left Travis almost in tears. He got mochi ice cream afterward to calm his palate (so he claimed).

Moab Garage Co. is a surprising name for an ice cream shop – it’s named after the car repair shop that occupied the space from 1928 to 1975. Each serving of ice cream is made to order with liquid nitrogen, and either a dairy or coconut milk base. I got the blueberry basil, which ended up being my fave since it was refreshing and not overly sweet.

On our next visit, I got chocolate (with pretzels and almonds), which was tasty but a bit too sweet for me. Be mindful that some ingredients are not vegan (e.g. the cookie dough contains butter); fortunately the staff is very friendly and forthcoming with allergen info. On one of our visits, they warned me that a few chocolate chips with dairy had gotten in my coconut milk-based ice “cream,” and offered to remake it. I didn’t take them up on it, but I appreciated the offer.

The food at Moab Kitchen was vegan, homey, and unique. The setting was very hippy-esque and laid-back. It appeared that we were literally dining in the backyard / outdoor living room of the chef-owner. We shared a curry dish made with four different veggies including eggplant, jackfruit, and cabbage. While we aren’t vegan, the food was fun and flavorful. We also shared a delicious samosa. If we had stopped there, it would have been an awesome experience.

The cupcakes, which were also vegan, seemed store-bought and didn’t excite me. When I opened my chocolate cupcake, I was shocked to see that it had mold on top. I took it back to the chef; he swore, then gave me a new one. After a thorough check, I tasted it and decided it was only okay. But because of the experience with the first cupcake, I only had a small bite and wasn’t willing to eat the rest. In retrospect, I should have asked for my money back.

Travis loves craft beer, so he always ends up dragging me to at least one brewery. Moab Brewery was probably the weakest food we had in Moab. My salmon burger was dry and flavorless. The fries seemed okay at the start, but as they cooled off, they were blah. In a town full of fun and eclectic restaurants, it felt boring and forgettable. Maybe we ordered the wrong thing. Next time I suggested looking up which local restaurants have specific craft beers that Travis wants to try (there must be an app for that), so I can get good food too. We could always swing by the brewery to pick up a souvenir pint glass later. And on the plus side, Travis did enjoy the beer.

Moab has a fun food scene that’s one of a kind. There are a few places we still didn’t make it to. On our list for next time: Moab Spitfire Smokehouse (a BBQ food truck that closes early if they sell out), El Charro Loco, Miguel’s Baja Grill, and Arches Thai. At least that’s the plan, if we can drag ourselves away from the pho and quesadillas.

Moab Accommodations, etc.

Another thing I like about Moab: Main Street. I love places where the main street is actually called Main Street. This one is a great place to stretch your legs and take in the sights. It’s touristy though, with a seemingly endless line of cars entering Moab from the park. Of course, we’ve only visited during spring break, when Moab has its “Jeep Week,” which is exactly what it sounds like. But people here seemed pretty chill and laid-back.

Indigo Alley is a cute little shop with cool clothes, accessories, and personal care products. The shop owner was very personable and I chatted with her as I browsed the selection of sunglasses and leggings. She said she had been living in the area for almost 30 years.

One morning, we did laundry at Moab Laundry Express. It’s located in a little house just off main street. We walked in and immediately got sticker shock. But the machines looked nice…and we were already there, so we gave it a go. The machines washed and dried our clothes with no issues, so we can’t complain. They had everything you need, including machines that dispense laundry detergent and swap out your bills for change. We had gotten quarters at the hotel and brought a small packet of laundry detergent from home, but it would’ve worked out either way.

We stayed at Inca Inn in 2018 and had a good experience, so we booked another stay in 2019. Their motel-style rooms are reasonably priced and clean. The shower had weak water pressure, and colorful lights on the showerhead which I thought were pointless (though Travis liked them). It was quiet, with basic amenities such as an older style tv (which we didn’t watch anyway). There weren’t many electrical outlets, but the side table had a power strip which included three USB ports.

While there are plenty of hotel options in town, we appreciated Inca Inn’s friendly staff, clean rooms, comfy bed (more so than most we’ve stayed at), and proximity to Arches NP. A basic breakfast (when we visited they had things like oatmeal packets, hard boiled eggs, cereal, toast, jam, peanut butter, juice, milk, water, and all-day coffee) is included. Think “grab and go” for your adventure in the park. One morning, they only had original unflavored oatmeal, so I asked the hostess and she brought me some flavored options which I really appreciated (it’s the little things, right?). Also, the hot water in their lobby is always HOT, which is more than I can say about other places.

We had a blast in Moab on both our visits, and we can’t wait to go back. It’s a fun place to explore, and it boasts a variety of quirky and delicious restaurants. Best of all, it’s right down the road from Arches National Park.

Links

• Restaurants
  • 98 Center | 98 East Center St. Moab, UT 84532
  • Love Muffin Cafe | 139 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Quesadilla Mobilla | 95 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Milt’s Stop & Eat | 356 S Mill Creek Dr, Moab, UT 84532
  • Sabaku Sushi | 90 E Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Garage Co. | 78 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Kitchen | 180 W Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Brewery | 686 S Main St, Moab, UT 84532
• Shops
  • Indigo Alley | 77 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Laundry Express LLC | 16 W 100 N, Moab, UT 84532
• Accommodations
  • Inca Inn | 570 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532

Interactive Map

The post Moab Restaurants and Accommodations appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Spring is a great time to go for a hike and see wildflowers in Shenandoah National Park. This time, we decided on a hike to Rapidan Camp in the Central District. The camp was a summer getaway for President Herbert Hoover between 1929 and 1933. It is also important as it helped initiate the construction of Skyline Drive.

In 1933, the Hoovers donated the land to Shenandoah National Park. It was later used as both a boy scout camp and federal retreat. In 2004, the National Park Service restored the camp and opened it to the public. From late spring to fall, the park offers a guided tour of the area (reservations are required). You can also visit Rapidan Camp on your own, though you won’t be able to get into some of the buildings.

A network of trails provides access to the area. The shortest route is a 4.0 mile out and back hike along Mill Prong Trail. We generally prefer loops, so we decided on a longer 7.1 mile circuit that starts along Mill Prong Trail and returns on the Appalachian Trail.

This wasn’t our first visit to Rapidan Camp. We’d been there before on a backpacking trip (the same trail, but in the opposite direction). No camping is allowed within 0.5 miles of the area, and we had camped just outside of that perimeter. If you’re interested in backpacking, check out our trail map for campsite locations. We’ve also been meaning to backpack a longer route through Rapidan Camp from Jones Mountain, but haven’t gotten to it yet.

Milam Gap

Every year, Shenandoah National Park has a wildflower weekend, and this was the week after so we were hoping we’d see plenty of flowers. Mill Prong Trail begins across from a parking lot known as Milam Gap (near mile marker 53 on Skyline Drive). The lot was full, but we found a spot along the road. We crossed Skyline Drive and headed southbound on the Appalachian Trail. At the intersection with Mill Prong Trail, we turned left (though you could also get to Rapidan Camp by continuing on the AT). The trail started descending, and we spotted some geraniums.

There are three water crossings on the way to Rapidan Camp. We first crossed a stream that feeds into Mill Prong, the river that gives Mill Prong Trail its name. The water was decently high, but it was easy to cross. Afterwards, the stream flowed on our right until we crossed another small creek. Mill Prong Trail ends shortly after, and we took a slight right onto Mill Prong Horse Trail.

Soon, two large horses headed toward us. Mill Prong Horse Trail, if you couldn’t tell from the name, is a yellow-blazed trail, so horses are allowed. For all the hikes we’ve done in Shenandoah, this is the first time we actually saw people on horseback. We stepped off the trail to let them pass.

Finally we arrived at Big Rock Falls, where we crossed Mill Prong (the creek, not the trail). This is the last stream crossing, and it’s a bit harder to navigate than the others. The trail was decently crowded with a large group of backpackers, so we took our time. Big Rock Falls is impressive and makes for a good spot to take a break. About ten minutes after Big Rock Falls, we reached the gravel road that leads to Rapidan Camp.

Rapidan Camp

At the gravel road, we turned right, then immediately left, onto a path that goes into the heart of Rapidan Camp. The camp is situated where two streams – Laurel Prong and Mill Prong – join to form the Rapidan River. The area has excellent trout fishing, which is one feature that attracted the Hoovers. A man-made waterway, called Hemlock Run, flows through the camp, though there isn’t much water in it these days.

The camp originally comprised 15 buildings, but only three remain: Brown House, Creel Cabin, and the Prime Minister’s Cabin. Creel Cabin houses park employees, while the other two buildings have exhibits that visitors can explore. Brown House, the building where President Hoover stayed, was closed when we visited. The Prime Minister’s Cabin was open, so we checked that out. It was named for Ramsay MacDonald, the Prime Minister of Great Britain, who stayed at Rapidan in 1929.

Afterward, we explored the outside of Brown House. Looking at holes in the outer part of the roof, we realized the structure had been built around large trees. We thought it was pretty cool that nature had been incorporated into the design. First lady Lou Henry Hoover had wanted to build the camp with a low ecological footprint.

Brown House was closed until the following week, when tours of Rapidan Camp would begin for the season, but its porch made for a nice lunch spot. As we ate, a park volunteer chatted with us about the huge hemlock trees that once grew above the camp, keeping it cool in the summer. Sadly, those trees died in the 1990s due to an insect called the woolly adelgid. We wished we had the opportunity to take the tour to learn more, but at least we learned some history of the area by talking with the volunteer.

Laurel Prong Trail

After lunch, we continued on. Unfortunately, we went the wrong way onto Hemlock Run Trail which, naturally, follows Hemlock Run. At the end of the short 0.2 mile trail, we reached Laurel Dam. The “dam” is really two concrete posts that make a sluice gate. It was used to redirect water from Laurel Prong to the man-made Hemlock Run, which travels through Rapidan Camp.

Once we realized our mistake, we headed back to Rapidan and found the correct path to Laurel Prong Horse Trail – a gravel road that eventually turned into a muddy path. We passed a side trail to Five Tents, the area where the first Rapidan Camp buildings were located. They were simple buildings with wooden floors and canvas tents above. We didn’t have time to check it out, but the main structures have long since been removed. Apparently items like electric fixtures and old fireplaces are still there, though.

Next, we reached the intersection of Laurel Prong Trail and Fork Mountain Horse Trail. The area has several campsites, and it’s where we stayed while backpacking a few years prior. This is about as close as you can pitch a tent to Rapidan Camp.

As we continued on Laurel Prong Trail, we started seeing many more wildflowers like showy orchid, pink lady slippers, Canadian mayflower, and bluets. There’s also a lot of mountain laurel, but it wasn’t quite flowering yet. We continued along a ridgeline, and saw more wildflowers like beautiful wild azalea.

As we admired the flora, Kristin said she felt a raindrop. I felt nothing. Then she said she heard thunder. I heard nothing. Five minutes later, I caught up to her – and I could feel and hear the approaching rain. Luckily we had rain jackets, because it started to pour and we had around three miles to go. We passed an intersection with Cat Knob trail and continued ascending.

Appalachian Trail

As the rain poured, we made it to the next intersection and turned right onto the Appalachian Trail. We started ascending to Hazeltop (3812′), the third highest peak in the park, and saw lots of trilliums growing. Some were already past their prime, but it was nice to see them. Near the peak of Hazeltop, the rain finally let up. A small side trail provides a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, so we decided to check it out. After returning to the main trail, it started pouring again.

The rain finally let up as we descended to Milam Gap on the AT. A backpacker had pitched his tent directly on top of some ferns along the trail. As a reminder, make sure to use an established campsite so you can “leave no trace.” As we returned to Milam Gap, we noticed it hadn’t rained there at all. You never know when or where a spring shower will hit!

Surrounded by nature and rich history, Rapidan Camp has a bit of everything. Whether you’re dayhiking or backpacking, it makes a great destination. The loop we took was even more interesting with the spring wildflowers. And in our experience, it hasn’t been too crowded compared to other popular hikes in the park.

Rapidan Camp Loop Trail

Date: Saturday, May 18, 2019
Type: Out and back dayhike
Total Distance: 7.1 miles (11.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1405 feet (428 m)
Time: 6 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low to moderate
Water: Various streams and creeks along the way, Big Rock Falls
Highlights: History, Views, Wildflowers, Waterfall
Notes: This route can be done clockwise or counterclockwise. If camping, make sure you’re at least 0.5 miles from Rapidan Camp.
Directions to Milam Gap: Google Maps Directions (Near MM 53 on Skyline Drive)

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Milam Gap, cross Skyline Drive on the south side of the lot. You’ll be on the Appalachian Trail. In about 125 feet, turn left onto blue-blazed Mill Prong Trail. The trail will descend until you reach Rapidan Camp.
• 1.0 mi – After crossing a couple streams, Mill Prong Trail ends as it abuts the yellow-blazed Mill Prong Horse Trail. At the fork, turn right.
• 1.5 mi – Big Rock Falls, the last time you’ll cross Mill Prong
• 1.8 mi – Cross the gravel Camp Hoover Road. Slightly to the right is a gravel path that goes into the heart of Rapidan Camp and past The Creel. Explore as much as you like, then head west toward Laurel Prong Horse Trail. If you’re not sure which way to go, continue along Camp Hoover Road until you reach an intersection with Laurel Prong Horse Trail, which also looks like a road initially.
• 1.9 mi – On your right is a sign and a set of stairs leading up to Five Tents. Continue straight on yellow-blazed Laurel Prong Horse Trail (or check out Five Tents if you have time). The trail will start ascending around this point.
• 2.4 mi – Continue straight onto the blue-blazed Laurel Prong Trail. Laurel Prong will be the hardest part of the hike due to its ascent.
• 3.7 mi – At the fork, turn right to continue on Laurel Prong Trail. Cat Knob Trail will be to your left.
• 4.7 mi – Turn right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail.
• 5.1 mi – On the left, look for a short trail to a panoramic viewpoint that looks west. This is near the summit of Hazeltop. After this, you’ll start descending all the way back to Milam Gap.
• 7.1 mi – Return to the intersection with Mill Prong Trail. Continue straight on the AT, and cross Skyline Drive to return to Milam Gap.

Places

• Milam Gap Trailhead | 38.5031917,-78.4495831
• Rapidan Camp | 38.4870578,-78.4141389

Maps

• Rapidan Camp and Mill Prong Loop Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Rapidan Camp Tours (NPS)
• Rapidan Camp History (NPS)
• A Retreat Fit for a President (NPS)
• Rapidan Camp (Wikipedia)
• National Archives Camp Hoover (National Register of Historic Places)
• Historical Photo of The Hoovers On Porch (NPGallery)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Rapidan Camp Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Note: This trip was back in 2017 when the park’s concessionaire was Xanterra. It’s now Aramark, so options inside the park may have changed.

There’s only one hotel in the park: Crater Lake Lodge. We had booked two nights, several months in advance, and were excited to stay there. But first, we’d be staying at Mazama campground. After setting up our campsite, we drove up to the lodge for a gorgeous view of the lake.

After staying two miserable nights in the campground, and cancelling our backpacking trip due to thunderstorms, we tried to get a room at the lodge. They were booked that night, but we were able to reserve a room for the following two nights.

Accommodations Outside the Park

We decided to call Diamond Lake Resort, located 45 minutes north of the park, in the Umpqua National Forest. Thankfully, we were able to reserve a room for that night. On the way, we hiked Boundary Springs Trail, which we highly recommend.

When you hear the name Diamond Lake, you expect something spectacular. However, it turned out to be pretty low-key. Its architecture is quaint and cottagey, and guest rooms are small, comfortable, and unassuming. Largely due to its location, it’s a budget-friendly alternative to Crater Lake Lodge. And we were glad they had availability, since we had no other good options.

Crater Lake Lodge

The following day, we checked in to Crater Lake Lodge. The guestrooms we stayed in were cozy, with basic amenities. There is no A/C, so we relied on fans to stay cool. The first room we stayed in had a view of Crater Lake, which added to the experience. After two nights, we switched to a room with a view of mountains on the opposite side. It was located on the top floor, in the eaves, so we were uncomfortably hot at night.

It would have been ideal to stay in one room for the entire visit, but at least they had some availability when our plans fell through. Staff at the lodge were friendly and helpful. They moved our luggage between rooms, and listened to our incessant questions about the status of our Crater Lake Boat Tour.

Overall we enjoyed the atmosphere at the lodge. We sat outside on the deck overlooking Crater Lake. In the evenings, we enjoyed relaxing in the Great Hall, particularly when the fireplace was lit. The lodge was crowded during the day, but cleared out in the evenings when only overnight guests remained.

Restaurants in the Park

Let’s start with the most memorable – the Dining Room at Crater Lake Lodge. The park website recommends making advance reservations. So we made ours several months ahead of time. Just in case. Since we were staying at the lodge sooner than anticipated, we chatted with the host and found that we could make a dinner reservation 24 hours in advance.

At dinnertime, we were seated by a window with a view of Crater Lake. After asking for a recommendation because of my dairy allergy, I ordered the Citrus Herb Chicken with veggies and wild rice. The waitress was helpful and accommodating. My meal was nicely seasoned and felt healthy, but it wasn’t amazing. Travis got Pacific Crest Trail pasta, with lemon cream sauce and salmon, which he really enjoyed. He also took advantage of the lodge’s small rotating list of craft beers on tap.

The following day, we were out hiking Mount Scott, Plaikni Falls, and the Pinnacles, so we hadn’t made a dinner reservation. Thankfully, guests can grab salad, soup, and appetizers on the balcony overlooking Crater Lake, and in the Great Hall (just outside the lodge’s main dining room). We chose to eat inside.

I asked for a wedge salad with salmon, which came with a delicious, creamy dressing. We both ordered soup of the day. Today it was wild rice with carrots, celery, mushrooms, and chicken broth. It was savory and hearty with a well-developed flavor. It looked like nothing, but it was some of the best soup I’ve ever had.

Travis ordered the BLT flatbread, which came topped with a healthy portion of greens. It was like a BLT and a pizza had a baby. He also ordered a Rogue Pendleton Pale Ale, which arrived in a Crater Lake National Park themed can. All the food and drinks we had were delicious. In fact, I preferred the food in the Great Hall.

The Great Hall has a more casual vibe compared to the dining room. Someone requested that the gas fireplace be turned on; it didn’t put out much heat, but added to the room’s ambiance. We enjoyed a cozy dinner on the couch.

The lodge restaurant also offers breakfast, so we decided to try it one morning. I had to order a la carte due to my dietary restriction, but there were many options and the wait staff was helpful once again. All in all, we greatly enjoyed the food at Crater Lake Lodge and highly recommend it.

Now let’s chat about some restaurants in the park that were memorable for a different reason. Crater Lake’s other two eateries were also operated by then concessionaire, Xanterra. The first is Annie Creek Restaurant, near Mazama Campground. It’s a casual sit down restaurant that we visited on our first night in the park.

There were many open tables, but we waited for about half an hour to be seated. I ordered a Monster Burger, without cheese, and a gluten free bun (since the regular bun contained milk). Travis ordered a pulled pork sandwich with pickles and red onion.

After another long wait, the waitress came by to apologize for the delay. She pointed to a man, and said that my dairy-free burger had mistakenly been served to him. The man eyed his food strangely, as he clearly hadn’t been told about the mix-up. The waitress offered me a complimentary trip to the salad bar, which I greatly appreciated.

After grabbing a bowl of soup, a burger was waiting for me at the table. But it was covered in mushrooms, and not what I had ordered. At this point, I just ate it, but requested some avocado, the only topping I could remember that I should have gotten. The burger was just okay, and the bun fell apart since it was a low-quality gluten free bun (and we’ve had tasty gluten free bread), but at least I didn’t get charged for the avocado or salad bar. Travis’s pulled pork sandwich was decent.

The other restaurant in the park is Rim Village Café. This place is more of a grab-n-go cafeteria, with food items sitting in fridges and under heat lamps. It’s nothing special, and expensive for what you get. We ended up paying $31 for two hot dogs, a cookie, yogurt, soda, and a fruit cup. Needless to say, we only went there once during our visit.

Restaurants Outside the Park

Establishments outside the park are spread out, so it takes time to get to them. Since we stayed one night at Diamond Lake Resort, we dined at the restaurant there. We ordered burgers; the food took forever to get to us, and was cold and tasteless. We did have a decent view of the lake to take our minds off the food, though.

We visited Beckie’s Cafe twice, and enjoyed quality food and service both times. Located on the west side of Crater Lake, Beckie’s has been around since 1926 and is known for its pie. We got a cheesesteak and a club sandwich, each with a side salad. I got an Angry Orchard cider (to make up for the salad), pretty standard but no complaints from me! They had a few local craft beers on draft, too.

The second time we visited, we had the same waitress who recognized us, and was friendly and helpful given my dairy allergy. She offered us an awkward high table next to the bar, which we happily accepted in lieu of waiting. This time we each got a Hunter Burger (no cheese on mine) with a fried egg and chipotle mayo with fries. The bun fell apart a bit, but it was still delicious.

A visit to Beckie’s wouldn’t be complete without trying the pie. Except I couldn’t eat it since it had dairy. Travis tried the peach and chocolate pie (on different visits) and they were both tasty. His favorite – chocolate – was rich, smooth, and silky with a light and fluffy whipped cream.

Overall, we were most impressed with Beckie’s Cafe and Crater Lake Lodge’s restaurant and Great Hall. Skip everything else and bring some canned tuna.

Places

• Crater Lake Lodge | 570 Rim Village Dr, Oregon 97604
  • Dining Room
• Diamond Lake Resort | 350 Resort Dr, Diamond Lake, OR 97731
• Annie Creek Restaurant | 569 Mazama Village, Crater Lake Hwy, OR 97604
• Rim Village Cafe and Gift Shop | 42.9110909, -122.1490059
• Beckie’s Cafe | 56484 OR-62, Prospect, OR 97536

Interactive Map

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There are no restaurants or lodging (aside from campgrounds) in Redwood National & State Parks. In 2010, Redwood Hostel, previously the only lodging in the park, closed. And in 2019, the hostel building is set to be demolished. Crescent City is near the northern part of the park, and Klamath and Orick are to the south. Even further south are the towns of Arcata and Eureka.

Restaurants in Crescent City

When visiting a park, I often drag my wife to nearby breweries. If I like the beer enough, I’ll buy a pint glass souvenir. In this case, I had SeaQuake Brewing in Crescent City in mind. We decided to visit after our Redwood Creek backpacking trip, so we were starving. I got pizza with a chocolate porter and Kristin got fresh fish tacos. I enjoyed my pizza a lot, but Kristin thought the fish tacos were dry and desperately needed a sauce. The beer was good, but didn’t wow me. We did enjoy the casual atmosphere there.

A couple days later, I convinced Kristin to go back to SeaQuake. I really wanted to like it – enough to get a pint glass. This time, I got a 9.2 burger with parmesan fries and Kristin got a Thai chicken salad. This time we both liked our food. Kristin’s salad had an assortment of vegetables, crunchy noodles, and spicy peanut dressing. I got two half pints of beer, a blonde ale and coastal pale ale, which were okay, but felt forgettable. So we left, me without a pint glass. The place was packed both times and we had to wait, so maybe I’m missing something.

We went to Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant for dinner one night, while staying at Jedediah Smith Campground. Kristin ordered a torta with pork al pastor, guacamole, mayo, onion, lettuce, and tomato, which she loved. It looked like a simple sandwich, but its sweet and spicy flavors and variety of textures made it great.

I got a chimichanga platter, but thought it was one-note and nothing special. Service was a bit strange, as different servers kept coming by our table, but they were friendly. When Kristin mentioned her dairy allergy, they were very accommodating.

For breakfast the next morning, we went to Hiouchi Cafe, which is only three minutes from Jedediah Smith Campground. The waitress was friendly as she took our order. I ordered Grandma’s French Toast, which piqued my interest as a cinnamon lover. It was good but basic – and it needed more cinnamon! My bacon was kinda rubbery too.

Kristin’s dairy allergy prevented her from ordering the breakfast meals, so she ordered eggs, sausage, hash browns, avocado, and tomatoes a la carte. Some items looked okay, but the avocado was very brown, and she was surprised they served it that way. I wanted to like Hiouchi Cafe – it sounded tasty and was highly rated. But for $30, what we got wasn’t worth it.

Restaurants in Orick

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Snack Shack. This outdoor roadside joint is located in Orick, California, near Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center and the southern section of the park. With limited parking and picnic benches, some of which are shaded by umbrellas, it was one of our favorite restaurants of the trip.

Snack Shack mainly serves burgers, hotdogs, and burritos. As we ordered, a Redwood Park Ranger picked up her order, so we figured it must be good! I got the Baby Bigfoot Burger: bacon, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and pepper jack cheese. And tots. And a chocolate milkshake.

Kristin got the Hawaiian Burger, which came with pineapple and bbq sauce, and a huge order of fries. Our meal was a bit greasy, but so tasty. The milkshake was rich, thick, smooth, and chocolatey. While Snack Shack has a seemingly “fast food” vibe, our food took a while to arrive.

Snack Shack is open until 7pm, and we wished it was open later. Also, there’s no restroom, so plan ahead. There aren’t many places to eat near southern Redwood N&SP, so we highly recommend it if you’re looking for some casual-yet-delicious roadside burgers.

Accommodations Near the Park

For campgrounds in the park, check out Gold Bluffs Beach Campground and Jedediah Smith Campground.

Lighthouse Inn in Crescent City is relatively affordable, and conveniently located along highway 101. Close to the park, and at just over $100 a night, our standard room was actually quite large. Our bed was a bit springy, which made it hard to sleep. The hotel was clean, and staff was friendly.

Breakfast consisted of basics: bagels, oatmeal, hard boiled eggs, cereal, and cake (breakfast of champions). There was no hot food, unless you toasted some bread, but it got us going in the morning. They had a washer and dryer, so we took the opportunity to clean our clothes ($1.50 a load). Some of the nautical themed decor in the hotel wasn’t quite our taste, but it was an affordable place to stay.

Places

• SeaQuake Brewing | 400 Front St, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant | 297 US-101, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Cafe | 2095 Hwy 199, Hiouchi, CA 95531
• Snack Shack | 120779 US-101, Orick, CA 95555
• Lighthouse Inn | 681 Highway 101 South, Crescent City, CA 95531

Interactive Map

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Let’s Check it Out

Since the last time we had camped there, Mathews Arm Campground had been updated, and we were interested to see how it had changed. In past visits, we had reserved one of the sites between A42 and A55, but you can no longer book those in advance. Instead, we grabbed the last site available for a weekend in late September, site C150.

After work on a Friday, we arrived at Mathews Arm Campground around 8pm. This was later than we wanted, but we still looked forward to a weekend of both relaxing and hiking. We went into the restrooms to brush our teeth and discovered a welcome addition – handsoap. In the past, there had only been hand sanitizer.

The campground seemed unusually crowded, probably due to the density of campsites in the C-loop. That night, we could hear people talking until after midnight. Many were still out around their campfires – some were yelling, others were playing loud music. We’ve found other campgrounds in national parks to be quiet; even Seawall Campground in Acadia, which has some crowded areas, was much quieter.

We didn’t see any rangers or campground staff around, so I guess no one was enforcing quiet hours. It’s hard to get quality sleep while camping, and the constant noise made it hard to fall asleep. Conversely, it’s generally been very quiet at night during previous visits. During a past visit, we even heard a ranger asking campers to let her know if other groups were disturbing them.

In the morning, we discovered we had forgotten our camp stove. So went to Elkwallow Wayside, a nearby camp store, to grab some breakfast. We had been there several times in the past to get firewood and random supplies we had forgotten at home.

Elkwallow is about 3 miles from Mathews Arm and also has gift shop items and basic hot food. T got a bacon, egg, and cheese muffin with hashbrowns, and I got sausage and egg on toast, also with hashbrowns. The servers were friendly and very accommodating of my dietary restriction. All the seating is outdoor, which you might expect. So we ate our breakfast at a sunny picnic table. The food was kind of like what you’d get at a fast food place. It filled us up and was better than cold pop-tarts.

After breakfast, we were both ready for a day of hiking. We had recently done a backpacking trip at Overall Run Falls, which is near Mathews Arm. So we decided to drive a bit further and hike a loop trail for Dark Hollow Falls and Rose River, which is close to Big Meadows Campground.

Dinner Time

When we returned to the campground that evening, we had to rely on our fire-building skills and the campsite grill since we had forgotten our stove. We had trouble getting it to light, but a couple in the adjacent site helped us out by giving us some fire starters. And we gratefully headed on to our main course of hot dogs and canned beans. And of course, s’mores!

After our gourmet meal, we cleaned up and slowly made our way toward our tent. We wondered if people would be loud again. To prepare ourselves for what might be a long night, we brought a national parks Trivial Pursuit deck we had bought at a gift shop on one of our adventures. It was a good thing we had something to do, and we were surprised to hear people making noise again until well after midnight.

Somehow, we finally got to sleep.

Campground Layout

In the morning, we packed up and drove around the campground to see whether any other major changes had taken place, aside from the addition of hand soap. It looked like bear boxes had been added to campsites on the perimeter of the campground.

Sites A23 through A53 (odd) seem relatively private. These sites also have pull-through parking rather than back-in, which we prefer. Sites A1 through A15 (odd) are relatively isolated from other sites, but will get more traffic since all vehicles entering the campground have to drive through this area.

All traffic must exit past sites A72 through A116, so there may also be more traffic in this part of the campground. However, the sites on the perimeter of the campground (mostly even-numbered sites) looked spacious.

Final Thoughts

On our way out of the park, we stopped at Apple House, a popular restaurant in Front Royal, Virginia, to grab brunch. The place is well-known for its doughnuts and located close to Shenandoah’s northern entrance. While we munched on pancakes and pulled pork, we discussed our thoughts on the changes to our most-frequented campground. Overall, we couldn’t argue with the changes to the campground itself, namely bear boxes and hand soap. But we were disappointed in the noise and the change in the site reservation system.

We hoped the late-night noise was a fluke. We also questioned why the denser sites are reservable, while the quiet, less-dense sites are walk-in only. We’ll probably go back and try for a walk-in site, but I wouldn’t stay in the C-loop again. I might reserve a site on the B-loop in hopes that it would be quieter. Either way, we hope our next visit to Mathews Arm Campground is more peaceful.

Mathews Arm Campground | 167 Campsites

• Location: Shenandoah National Park, Northern District, Skyline Drive Mile Marker 22.1 (Google Maps Directions)
• Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Bear Boxes on Perimeter Campsites
• Dates Open: Early May – Late October
• Prices: $15/night for campsite | $50/night for a group campsite
• Highlights: Closest campground to North Entrance
• Best Sites: Perimeter sites on A loop and generator-free sites on B loop. Avoid C Loop if you’re looking for peace and quiet.
• Notes: Sites B117-B141, C146-C164, and D165-D167 (group sites) can be reserved up to 6 months in advance. Generator-free sites are A42-A64 and B128-B141. Elkwallow Wayside is less than 3 miles away for camping supplies.

Places

• Mathews Arm Campground | Skyline Drive, Mile Marker 22.1
• Elkwallow Wayside | Skyline Drive, Mile Marker 24.1 | Open Sunday – Monday 9am – 6pm, Saturday 9am – 7pm | Breakfast served 9am – 11am, Lunch 11am – Closing | Closed in winter
• Apple House | 4675 John Marshall Hwy, Linden, VA 22642 | Open Monday 7am – 5pm, Tuesday – Sunday 7am – 8pm

Maps

• Mathews Arm Campground Map (NPS)

Links

• Mathews Arm Reservations (Recreation.gov)

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Tex-Mex

Tex-Mex cuisine is seriously lacking in DC, so we were excited to try some in the southwest. Tucson Tamale is a local institution that I had read about before our trip. We visited during the week and at an off-time, so we had the place mostly to ourselves. I ordered two tamales: the red chile beef and the vegan blue corn & veggie. T got verde pork & cheese and spicy chorizo beef tamales. The employee who took our order was friendly, and the food came out fast.

At the small topping bar, I grabbed some pico de gallo, which I mixed with my rice and beans, elevating the flavor. Then we got to unwrapping our tamales. All the tamales were moist, and the red chili beef was the biggest hit flavor-wise. It had some green olives (I think) which complemented the pork and chili. Even T liked it, and he’s not a fan of olives. We would have gone back if our trip had been longer than a week. Apparently you can place online orders for frozen tamales, which we definitely plan to do!

In researching Tucson’s food scene, we came across a relatively recent regional creation: the Sonoran hotdog. It’s a hot dog wrapped in bacon, with beans, salsa, mustard, mayo, and other southwest-style toppings, inside a crispy boat-like bun. This was at the top of my list, and we had two during our trip. The first was at el Guero Canelo, a fast casual type chain. We stopped there after a 3-day backpacking trip to Manning Camp when we were deliriously hungry after descending 4000 feet over about 10 miles in a day.

Since we hadn’t showered in three days, we decided to take our food to go (for the benefit of other guests). We each ordered a Sonoran hotdog, and added marinated onions (which were just okay), lime, and salsa from the topping bar. The flavors did not disappoint, but the bun wasn’t crispy by the time we got our food back to the hotel. I assume that’s because we got takeout, and would recommend eating it at the restaurant. Also, since we had just returned from a 3-day trek, I wished I had ordered two.

We later grabbed a second Sonoran hotdog (and other goodies) at Calle Tepa. We walked past their huge, colorful menu painted on the wall, and ordered at the counter. They have a large selection, so it was difficult to choose. The staff was friendly, and our total came to about $20. After ordering, we went to grab a seat. Since it was pretty frigid inside, we chose to eat on the patio, which, thankfully, was shaded.

Service was super fast. I got a carnitas taco, which tasted good, but wasn’t anything special (tacos are one thing we do have back home. If you’re in Northern VA or DC, I suggest a trip to Taco Bamba). We each got a Sonoran hotdog, which had an amazingly crispy bun. The toppings were tasty, and it was slightly spicier than el Guero Canelo’s. It’s tough to compare the two Sonoran hotdogs we had on our trip; I would happily check out both places again.

T also got an order of mini chimichangas, which came with guacamole and sour cream. T’s take: they were very crispy, but he wished they had more of a sauce and maybe some cheese on top. Also, it was too much for him to finish with all the other food we had ordered, so he took the leftovers to go.

We also went to a Mexican place called Los Nopales, which is a short drive from Saguaro’s Tuscon Mountain (west) District. It has great reviews on Yelp (4.5 stars) and the space has a no-frills vibe which I definitely appreciate. There were complimentary chips and salsa, which I enjoyed and ate plenty of. I ordered shrimp tacos and T got the chimichanga. It was a large plate of food, and we agree it tasted decent, but there was nothing special about it. I might revisit, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to do it.

Not Tex-Mex

Ramen may not be what Tucson is known for, but since we love it, we decided to look for a local Ramen joint. Ikkyu is a relatively highly rated, mostly takeout place. We arrived with the lunchtime crowd, but a random guy was nice enough to share his table with us. The tonkotsu (pork bone) broth was the star of the show with its deep umami, almost buttery, flavor. They made mine not spicy at my request. The noodles were thick, which we prefer, and they had a decent bite. The pork on top was flavorful, but dry. T liked the ground pork that was added. It had a few slices of bamboo shoots, scallions, a small portion of bean sprouts, and a fish cake. The toppings tasted decent, but we wanted more of them – and maybe a marinated egg. Note: ramen is only available Thursday through Saturday.

After hiking in the Rincon Mountain District one day, we needed to refuel. We had passed on a place called Saguaro Corners a few times already, thinking it looked kitch and noticing the Yelp rating was only so-so. But we were curious, and decided to stop in for dinner since it’s located right outside the park boundary. The place was packed, much larger than we thought, and a musician was playing in their outdoor seating area. After a short wait, which gave T an opportunity to check out the beer list on the chalkboard, a table opened up inside.

We followed the hostess back to our table, which was next to a small (man-made) outdoor waterfall. I ordered the ribs with fries and potato salad. The meal was good, and the potato salad in particular was delicious. I also tried Cider Boys Strawberry Magic which was sweet, fruity, and probably the best cider I’ve had in life. Too bad they don’t have it back home. T got a flight, of which he enjoyed most of his selections.

While not in Tucson, Farm House Bakery Restaurant was the only place open on Easter Sunday in a town called Benson, AZ. It was the eve of a 3-day backpacking trip to Manning Camp. I recommend their home-cooked food, quirky decor, and old-school country tunes. I ordered the pulled pork sandwich with barley vegetable soup, and T got the avocado bacon burger. The food was basic, but filling with a home-style quality.

If you need a quick burger fix, check out In-N-Out Burger. We have Five Guys on the east coast, but I had never been to In-N-Out. Even though it’s fast food, I recommend a visit for the solid burgers and fries.

Since I’m sensitive to dairy, T always searches for places to get dairy-free “ice cream” when we travel. He’s pretty awesome like that. This time, he found a shop called Cashew Cow, a name I thought was punny and cute. We stopped by, and each ordered a cup of ice cream. I got chocolate chip cookie dough, and T thinks he got something with cinnamon. It was tasty, but didn’t “wow” us. The portions were small, and it was pricey (about $14 for two ice cream cups). Also, not sure why they cram the ice cream into those tiny cups which makes it hard to eat. But gotta love that there’s a non-dairy option! 

It was so rewarding trying out some of the dining options Tuscon has to offer. Let us know if you’ve scoped out any good eats around Tucson. What did we miss?

Places:
Tucson Tamale | 7159 E Tanque Verde Rd, Tucson, AZ 85715 (multiple locations) | Tex-Mex
el Guero Canelo | 5802 E 22nd St, Tucson, AZ 85711 (multiple locations) | Sonoran Hotdogs
Calle Tepa | 6151 E Broadway Blvd, Tucson, AZ 85711 | Tex-Mex, Sonoran Hotdogs
Los Nopales Restaurant | 3051 S Kinney Rd, Tucson, AZ 85713 | Tex-Mex
In-N-Out Burger | 4620 N Oracle Rd, Tucson, AZ 85705 (multiple locations) | Fast Food, Burgers, Fries
Ikkyu | 2040 W Orange Grove Rd # 180, Tucson, AZ 85704 | Ramen, Sushi, Japanese Food
Saguaro Corners Restaurant & Bar | 3750 S Old Spanish Trail, Tucson, AZ 85730 | American Food, Beer
Farmhouse Bakery Restaurant (no website) | 811 W 4th St, Benson, AZ 85602 | American Food
Cashew Cow | 16 S Eastbourne Ave, Tucson, AZ 85716 | Vegan ice cream

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Schoodic Point

The drive to Schoodic Point from the Schoodic Institute is quick.  We parked, and hopped out of the car to see a giant slab of uneven multi-colored rock.  The waves were crashing into the rocky shoreline in different places, so we kept our eyes open for a good photo spot.  We scrambled around on the huge rock outcropping to capture photos of the waves.  Some visitors were getting close to the waves, but we kept a safe distance.

There were a decent amount of people around the day we visited.  We saw visitors taking photos, exploring the rock formations, and just soaking up some sun.  It would also make a nice picnic spot.  Schoodic Point was the highlight of my day (although K claims that Schoodic Institute was her favorite part).  But despite its uniqueness, we thought that other parts of Acadia were more impressive.  We enjoyed the views and peaceful atmosphere, snapped some photos, and then we were ready for a hike.

Schoodic Head Trail

There are quite a few trails in Schoodic, and even a new trail system to reflect the historic character of the carriage roads on Mt. Desert Island.  Time was limited, but we wanted to hike one more trail, since it was our last day in Acadia.  So we choose a 2.6 mile loop up to Schoodic Head.  Schoodic Head is only at an elevation of 440 feet, so it’s not a particularly hard hike.  We drove from Schoodic Point over to the parking lot at Blueberry Hill.

We started on the Anvil Trail, which was across the road from the parking area.  The trail went up and down and passed through some interesting rock formations.  I banged my knee on one of them, and my knee started twitching every time I bent it.  I’m very clumsy.  Thankfully, I was able to complete the hike without any other issues!  This part of the hike was only 0.8 miles long, but about 0.3 miles in, there is a nice vista near a large rock outcropping known as “the anvil.”

Once done with the Anvil Trail, we were pretty much at the top, and it was only a short distance on the Schoodic Head Trail to the summit.  There are good views, but we had to search for them, as much of the summit is forested.  After getting some photos we headed back the way we came on Schoodic Head Trail, then continued on past the Anvil Trail.  Near the summit we saw a research station for studying bats.  We were curious, as we’ve seen similar things in other parks, but there was limited information.  The Schoodic Head Trail continued south for another 0.5 miles.

The Schoodic Head Trail deposited us onto a dirt road.  In a tenth of a mile or so, the road disappeared, and we were on the Alder Trail.  It’s a fairly uninteresting trail that led us back 0.6 miles to the Blueberry Hill Parking lot.  While the loop trail was a nice walk, it didn’t compare to the trails we hiked in other parts of the park.  Since it was our last experience in Acadia, it was a bit of a letdown.  But before driving back to Bangor, we decided to grab dinner in Winter Harbor, the closest town to Schoodic Peninsula.

Winter Harbor

Winter Harbor is a small town, with limited restaurants and attractions.  We were divided between two restaurants that we found: Raven’s Nest and Fisherman’s Galley.  Ultimately, we chose Fisherman’s Galley.  We think it ended up being a good choice.  The burger, fries, and beer (or wine for K) was exactly what we needed.  They have the usual lobster rolls too, but somewhat regrettably, we didn’t try them.

We discussed our day as we ate.  The consensus was that Schoodic is unique and worth the visit if you have time, but we’d recommend MDI and Duck Harbor more highly.  However, we wished we had more time to explore Schoodic, particularly the carriage roads, campground, and other trails.  The highlights were the Schoodic Research Institute and Schoodic Point, so that’s what we recommend if you have limited time.

And with that, our vacation was over.  We had already loaded up our car, so we headed down the road to Bangor, where we would fly home the next day.  As we drove, we chatted about our trip and decided that we would definitely revisit Acadia someday.

Schoodic Head Trail
Distance: 2.6 miles / 4.2 kilometers roundtrip
Type: Loop
Elevation Gain: 608 feet / 185 meters
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: A couple groups of people, but plenty of solitude
Water: Oceans, but we didn’t see any type of fresh water.
Directions to Parking at Blueberry Hill: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the Blueberry Hill Parking lot, walk north on the road for about 0.1 miles until you reach the Anvil Trailhead on the left side.
• Mile 0.1 – Ascend the Anvil Trail.
• Mile 0.4 – You’ve reached “the anvil,” a rock outcropping.  Continue hiking up.
• Mile 1.2 – This area is a bit confusing, with multiple intersecting trails.  Continue north toward Schoodic Head along the Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.3 – You’ve reached Schoodic Head at 440 ft, so take in the views, and then head back the way you came on Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – When you get to the intersection with the Anvil Trail, continue on Schoodic Head Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Schoodic Head Trail ends, and deposits you onto a dirt “road” called Ranger Cabin Road.  Head south, or left as you turn off the Schoodic Head Trail.  After a short while, connect onto the Alder Trail.
• Mile 2.6 – The Alder trail ends at the road, at Blueberry Hill Parking Lot, completing the loop.

Highlights: Views, rocky scramble areas
Notes: The attached map and elevation below specifies the hike as a 2.5 mile because it excludes the starting portion on the road.

Places
Schoodic Point | 44.3345092, -68.068083
Blueberry Hill Parking | 44.3391124, -68.0461742
Fisherman’s Galley | 7 Newman St., Winter Harbor, ME 04693

Maps
Schoodic Head Loop Trail Map (KTNPBlog)

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Southwest Harbor is also the closest town to Seawall Campground. Compared to Bar Harbor, it’s much smaller. There are fewer restaurants and stores, but that didn’t dissuade us from exploring it!

Restaurants

When we first arrived at Seawall Campground, it was already late, so we decided to go out for dinner. We had heard about a Mexican restaurant called XYZ; its name comes from the different regions of Mexico (Xalapa, Yucatan, and Zacatecas). It sounded interesting, though people had mentioned online that it was overpriced. Someone had recommended another Mexican place in Ellsworth, but unfortunately that had closed and was pretty far away anyway. So we decided to give XYZ a try. 

When we arrived at XYZ, the place was pretty crowded, but we were able to squeeze into some seats at the bar. The website stated that they have a full bar, so I asked the bartender if he could mix me several different things, but he didn’t have the liquor that was required (so…not a full bar). Eventually I decided on a margarita (the bartender’s recommendation) with sugar on the rim. It was okay, but nothing special. Which was pretty disappointing, considering we were at a Mexican place, and this seemed to be the only drink the bartender was able to make.

After we ordered our entrees, they brought us salad, which consisted of a few lettuce leaves on a plate with a side of oil, lime, and some pepper. I ate it because I was hungry, but it was probably the most boring salad I’ve ever had. They also brought us the tiniest serving of bread I have ever seen.

When our entrees arrived, they looked like something that had been sitting on a counter under a heat lamp for a bit too long. My Cochinita was okay. The beans and rice were palatable, but not very flavorful. The meat was not as tender as I would have liked. And I’ve had great marinated onions at lots of places, from local hole-in-the-wall places to Cava, but these didn’t compare favorably. T’s dinner was also disappointing. He ordered Chiles Rellenos (one of his fave Mexican dishes) but said it didn’t taste good.

Overall, staff was friendly and quirky, and decor was curiously inviting, with various political posters in Spanish that caught my attention. I speak some Spanish, so I enjoyed trying to read them. Other guests seemed like they were having a good time, and the restaurant seemed to accommodate several larger parties. For us, the food was just too expensive for the quality. Our dinner bill, which included two drinks, came to $85 (excluding tip).

A couple days later, we decided to check out Sips for breakfast. It is a cozy neighborhood spot with small, high-top tables and a wine bar. The decor made the place feel very homey and comfortable. After perusing the menu and chatting with the friendly waitress, I decided on a breakfast sandwich – an everything bagel with egg, sausage, tomato, and avocado. They have a variety of toppings, so you can customize your order. I also got a side of home fries.

My food came, and the sandwich was beautiful. I know that’s a weird thing to say about a breakfast sandwich, but see the picture below. The home fries were about average. T got french toast which looked amazing. Overall, the food was simple, but high quality and thoughtfully prepared. This meal came to about $14 total (excluding tip). Totally worth it. Next time, we’ll skip XYZ and come here.

Shops

After breakfast we took a stroll through Southwest Harbor. After perusing some clothing and trinket shops, we ended up at Sawyer’s Market. Their selection of chocolate included many different flavors and brands from a variety of countries. Naturally, we each bought one, even though they were pricey.

T also picked up a bottle of Coal Porter beer from Atlantic Brewing Company at Sawyer’s. He had tried it during our tasting at Mainely Meat, and wanted to bring one home. Though some items were expensive, this shop had a great selection of novelty items as well as groceries and baked goods. Plus, it’s right on Main Street.

Though we spent only a short time in Southwest Harbor, it seemed to be a quaint Maine town with a low-key vibe. We saw some beautiful views, got some great food, took a relaxing stroll along Main Street, and even satisfied some snack and drink cravings. 

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Southwest Harbor | Google Maps
XYZ Restaurant | 80 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Sips | 4 Clark Point Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Sawyer’s Market | 344 Main St, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679

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Soon we were back in Stonington.  And hungry.  We got a recommendation from the mail boat captain to visit a nearby restaurant called Whale’s Rib Tavern. After driving about 15 minutes, we discovered that they didn’t open until 5 pm.  So we headed back to Stonington.  There aren’t a ton of options, so we thought we’d revisit Fisherman’s Friend.  Which was also closed.  So we ended up at Harbor Cafe, on Main Street in Stonington.  We didn’t expect much, but it was just what we needed.  It was cozy and simply decorated with a partial view of the harbor.  For more details, check out our Stonington post.  After lunch, we started the hour and a half drive back to MDI.  And our next stop:  Seawall Campground.

Seawall Campground would be our lodging for the next two nights.  It’s located on the western half of MDI, which is slower paced, and there are fewer hikes and attractions.  But there’s still plenty to see and do.  As we drove along, we passed through Southwest Harbor on MDI, and then a residential area with firewood for sale, until we met the magnificent Maine coast again.  And then we arrived at the campground.  Like Blackwoods, this is a big campground with over 200 sites.

Unlike Blackwoods, we could reserve a specific site.  Ours was D-015, which had a short hike in.  We parked our car, grabbed our gear, and then headed to the site to set up our tent.  It was a bit of a maze to find our site, with paths going in every direction.  When researching Seawall, we had read that the sites there had more room and were more private than those of Blackwoods, so we were excited to have more peace and quiet.  And we felt it fit with the relaxed atmosphere of MDI’s western side.

After turning around a few times, we found our site.  We were again disappointed because our campsite didn’t have the privacy we were searching for.  Compared to Blackwoods, we were even closer to our neighbors.  We had made a mistake, one that clouded our view of Seawall a bit.

What had happened?  There are four loops in Seawall: A, B, C, and D.  Later on in our journey, we drove through the other loops to compare, and realized that if you want that private campsite, you want loops A or B.  Avoid C and D, unless you’re okay not having much privacy.

During our research of Seawall, we had seen something about the A and B loops being the best.  We had tried to reserve one there, but they booked up fast, so make sure you get your reservations early for those loops.  We thought C and D wouldn’t be too bad, and they’re not, but at that point in our trip we almost wished we had just booked a hotel.  At least it was relatively quiet, despite being crowded.

After setting up our tent, we went to take showers (we were overdue after spending 3 nights at Duck Harbor).  Thankfully, we knew just where to go, since we had passed the Seawall Camp Store on the drive in.  We were happy to arrive before closing…and to see the sign out front that read “Hot Showers.”

There are two shower rooms, separated by gender.  While there’s no toilet in the shower room, there is a port-o-potty out front.  Additionally there was a sink and a bench/sill area where you can put your things while getting ready.  Each room had 3 shower stalls, with a “dry” area that you go into first and lock, so you can keep your things dry and secure.  Be careful, it could be slippery since there was some water in that area.  Also, we had brought flip flops and towels, which we would recommend.  We’re not sure whether they had towels available at the camp store, but we figured we’d prefer to use our own regardless.

And I did have a gloriously hot shower… except that I had to stick three quarters in a machine every two minutes to extend my shower time.  And no, you can’t insert more money ahead of time.  Finally clean, we browsed the camp store, and bought oatmeal packets for breakfast the next day.  It was late, so we grabbed some dinner in Southwest Harbor before heading back to our campsite for the night.

Overall, we liked Seawall Campground, and would come back – if we got loop A or B.  Like Blackwoods, it’s a good home base to explore the surrounding area.

Seawall Campground | 212 Campsites | 5 Group Sites
Location: Mt. Desert Island, 4 miles south of Southwest Harbor (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire ring | Picnic Table | Flushable Toilet
Dates Open: Late May to the end of September
Prices: $22/night walk-in tent sites | $30/night drive-up tent, camper, and motor home sites | $60 group tent sites
Highlights: Close to attractions on MDI’s west side, clean and quiet
Notes:  Check-out: 10am | Advance reservations recommended | Get loop A or B, avoid C and D

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Seawall Camping Supplies | 536 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679

Maps:
Seawall Campground Map

Links:
NPS Website – Acadia Camping
Recreation.gov – Seawall Reservations

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