One of the main reasons we wanted to stay in Devils Garden Campground in Arches National Park was its proximity to hiking trails. One hike, called Broken Arch Trail, goes directly through the campground. We decided to hike a 2.8 mile loop to see Broken Arch, Sand Dune Arch, and Tapestry Arch. Aside from the Sand Dune Arch portion (which has a side trail leading to the main road), this route isn’t too crowded.

Broken Arch Trail

By early afternoon, we had finished our hike at Tower Arch Trail. Back at Devils Garden Campground, we walked as far south as we could, and started Broken Arch Trail in the campground near site 51. You could also begin at Sand Dune Arch Trailhead along Arches Scenic Drive (the main road). Unless you’re staying in the campground, that’s what we recommend.

The trail we took is a reverse lollipop loop that re-enters the campground at campsite 39. The loop can be done in either direction, and we chose counter-clockwise. The trail is sandy at the start, but transitions to slickrock. Cairns made it easy for us to navigate our way through. One way you can practice Leave No Trace is by avoiding stepping on the living cryptobiotic soil which is prevalent in Arches NP.

Looking east (our left), we had panoramic views of the surrounding area. In the distance, we saw what we thought were partially formed arches. Later in the hike, we realized this was actually Tapestry Arch. We scrambled downhill through narrow sandstone fins. It was chilly that day, but on a hot day the shade here would offer some respite from the heat.

Beyond the fins, we entered a wide open prairie, dominated by blackbrush, sagebrush, and other grasses. We were glad it was a cooler day, because there is no shade in this section. Looking to our left, we spotted Broken Arch in the distance. At a fork in the trail, we turned right to head toward Sand Dune Arch.

Sand Dune Arch

After about thirty minutes, we came to another intersection and turned left onto Sand Dune Arch Trail (continuing straight will take you to a parking lot along the park’s main road). The trail immediately ducks into a cluster of sandstone fins, and the dirt trail turns to sand. The wind whipped the sand all around us, and we put our buffs over our mouths so we wouldn’t breathe it in. Back here, the trail is more crowded since it’s so close to the road.

From here, it’s a short hike to Sand Dune Arch, and soon we were standing in front of it. Amongst the fins, the arch feels secluded, even with all the people around. Since lighting is limited, the arch almost glows red. A steady stream of people posed for photos with the arch as we waited for our turn (it took some time to get a photo without people in it). Afterward, we explored some narrow canyons further down the path, until we couldn’t go any further due to the large rock formations. We turned around and headed back to the intersection with Broken Arch Trail.

Broken Arch

The trail headed directly for the arch we had spotted in the prairie area. Larger and more prominent than Sand Dune Arch, Broken Arch loomed in front of us. This formation is unique because the trail goes through the opening of the arch. We walked on slickrock up to it, under it, and out the other side. The arch appears to have a crack running through it, but isn’t truly broken (so does Sand Dune Arch, interestingly).

On the other side of Broken Arch, there were several other hikers. Someone offered to take a photo of us in front of the arch and we happily accepted. In the background were the ever-present snow capped La Sal mountains. From this direction the arch is more photogenic in the afternoon, as sun shines on it in the morning. We continued following the cairns, and soon Tapestry Arch returned to view in the distance.

Tapestry Arch

Turning onto Tapestry Arch Trail, we followed cairns over sand and slickrock, while climbing over a few large downed tree branches (we wondered if they had been carried in by a flood). The arch was directly in front of us the whole time, and the side trail only took five to ten minutes to get there. It looks like there are triple arches there, but there’s only one true arch. The others may form arches someday when the sandstone weathers more. We think it’s called Tapestry Arch because it looks like the surrounding rock is woven together.

It was pretty windy as we admired the arch in silence – we were the only ones there! Compared to other arches on the loop, this was the most secluded and private. Tapestry Arch’s location isn’t on every map, nor is there any mention of it at any of the trailheads, so this one is off the beaten path. Luckily there’s is a sign for the arch at the intersection. As we headed back the way we came, we passed one other couple on the way to the arch.

After Tapestry Arch, it’s a short distance back to the campground. The trail ends by campsite 39, near some dumpsters and a restroom (a very scenic way to end your hike). This hike is enjoyable, relatively easy, and you get to see three arches along with other interesting rock formations. Sand Dune Arch tends to be fairly crowded, while Tapestry Arch gets few visitors. Overall this hike is less crowded than many in the park, and we really appreciated that we could hike it directly from the campground.

Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arches Loop Trail

Date: Sunday, March 25, 2018
Type: Lollipop loop day hike
Total Distance: 2.8 mi (4.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 427 feet (130 m)
Time: Two hours, including breaks
Trail Markings: Wayfinding Cairns
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: Low, except in Sand Dune Arch area
Water: None
Highlights: Geological Features, Views
Directions to Sand Dune Arch Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Notes: This trail can be started either inside Devils Garden Campground or at Sand Dune Arch Parking Lot. The map and trail directions assume the latter, which is easiest unless you’re staying in the campground.

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – Park at Sand Dune Arch Parking Lot, and take the trail to the east.
• 0.1 mi – At the intersection turn right, following the sign for Sand Dune Arch. The trail will get very sandy and go between sandstone fins.
• 0.2 mi – You’ll arrive at Sand Dune Arch. Check it out, then return to the last intersection.
• 0.3 mi – Turn right at the intersection, and follow the signs to Broken Arch.
• 0.6 mi – At the intersection, go right. You’ll see Broken Arch in the distance.
• 0.8 mi – The trail goes through Broken Arch.
• 1.3 mi – Turn right at the intersection with Tapestry Arch Trail.
• 1.5 mi – Arrive at Tapestry Arch. Enjoy the peace and quiet, then head back the way you came.
• 1.7 mi – Turn right at the intersection with Broken Arch Trail.
• 1.9 mi – The trail ends at Devils Garden Campground, near campsite 39. Turn left and follow the road. After 200 feet, keep left at the fork. Look for site 51, where Broken Arch Trail continues.
• 2.4 mi – This is the end of Broken Arch Loop. Turn right at the intersection, toward Sand Dune Arch.
• 2.7 mi – At the intersection with Sand Dune Arch Trail, continue straight to the parking lot.
• 2.8 mi – Back at the parking lot

Places

• Sand Dune Arch Parking Lot | 38.7641717,-109.5831754
• Sand Dune Arch | 38.7641717,-109.5831754
• Broken Arch | 38.7702866,-109.5784762
• Tapestry Arch | 38.7772651,-109.5838938

Maps

• Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arches Loop Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arches Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

After checking out of Jedediah Smith Campground, we drove along route 101 to a trail with an awkward name. Damnation Creek Trail is in Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, part of Redwood National & State Parks. It’s a well-known hike, and considered one of the best in the park. The trail descends 2.1 miles through redwood trees, and across Damnation Creek, to a coastal rocky beach. It’s both a diverse and difficult hike.

Descending Damnation Creek Trail

When we arrived at the small parking area along route 101 around 1pm, there were only a few spots available. As we started on the trail, we saw a sign that warned that the trail dropped 1000 feet. After an initial ascent of about 100 feet, we began a steady descent. And since this trail is an out-and-back, we would have to hike back up.

Soon Damnation Creek Trail intersected with the Coastal Trail, and we started descending more steeply. A sign near the intersection read “bridge failure,” and referred to a bridge near the end of the trail. We had spoken to a NPS intern, who told us that hikers had been crossing the bridge, even though the NPS didn’t recommend it.

We hit some switchbacks and descended into fog. The redwoods become more sparse as we headed toward the coast, and we could see the ocean peeking through the trees. The trail is very narrow, steep, and wet in spots – so some sections of the trail are eroded.

The Coast

As we neared the coast, we arrived at a wooden bridge with orange plastic webbing. Was this the bridge that was closed? We weren’t sure, since it didn’t appear to be blocked off. I thought about turning around and going back the way we came, but we decided to cross one at a time instead. The creek was just a few feet below…but this may have been a bad life decision. The trail led through tall grass and wildflowers to a view of the ocean, where we took photos of the coast shrouded in heavy fog.

Precariously steep steps carved into the side of the hill led to a stream, and finally a rocky beach. We explored and took photos, particularly of the rocks in the ocean, which reminded us of Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach, Oregon. Under the viewpoint we had come from, there was a small passageway that led to the south side of the beach.

It was time for a late lunch, so we found a spot with a great view. The other groups of beach-goers slowly disappeared, and we eventually had some solitude to relax and enjoy the beach. As we ate, the fog lifted and the weather became hot and sunny.

Ascending Damnation Creek Trail

You might be saying the name of the trail as you ascend the steep incline. The return hike was difficult for us at first, but once we got past the eroded, narrow part of the trail, it was just a moderate uphill hike. As we hiked up, we passed a sign saying we were leaving a tsunami zone…good to know!

We had hoped to hike some other trails in the park, but were pretty tired. Our consolation prize was heading back into Crescent City for dinner. On the way, we discussed how much we had enjoyed the varied terrain and plant life along Damnation Creek Trail. It turned out to be one of our favorites – despite its elevation gain and quirky name.

Damnation Creek Trail

Date: July 22, 2017
Type: Out and back hike
Total Distance: 4.2 miles (6.8 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1694 feet (516 m)
Time: 4 hours, which includes lunch and photo breaks
Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: Moderate
Water: Beach access, and some streams near the coast
Highlights: Ocean, rocky beach, streams, large trees, wildlife
Note: Please check with NPS before you hike this route regarding the bridge closure
Directions to Damnation Creek Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the parking lot, take Damnation Creek Trail. The trail will ascend briefly before descending.
• Mile 0.5 – At the intersection with the Coastal Trail, keep right on Damnation Creek Trail.
• Mile 0.6 – Damnation Creek Trail intersects with the Coastal Trail again. Follow the sign for Damnation Creek Trail.
• Mile 2.1 – Hopefully you made it to the coast! Enjoy, then head back the way you came.
• Mile 4.2 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Damnation Creek Trailhead

Maps

• Damnation Creek Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Damnation Creek Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Planning

There are plenty of places to backpack in Redwood National & State Parks. All backcountry camping must be done at designated campsites – except for Redwood Creek, located in southern Redwood National Park. Along the creek, camping on gravel bars is allowed. We only had time to do one backpacking trip in the park, and Redwood Creek was our choice.

There are two possible entry points to Redwood Creek – Redwood Creek trailhead and Tall Trees trailhead. Redwood Creek trailhead, which is near highway 101, has had several reported car break-ins. A ranger at Kuchel Visitor Center recommended starting from Tall Trees trailhead, since the parking lot is beyond a locked gate. We decided on Tall Trees for security and so we could include Tall Trees Grove, which has some of the largest redwood trees in the park.

We decided on a relatively easy-going route that was only 6.8 miles, and 971 feet of elevation gain. It included Tall Trees Grove, then hiking on the Redwood Creeks’ gravel bars. There are no trails along the creek, and we often found ourselves wading through the water. Water shoes are critical for the hike, and trekking poles are highly recommended. With the right equipment, this hike is a fun experience.

Backpacking permits in Redwood are free (honestly they *should* charge a nominal fee). Permits can be obtained up to 24 hours before your trip at Hiouchi or Kuchel Visitor Centers. They are limited and first-come-first-served. The park allows 50 visitors per night to camp along the gravel bars by Redwood Creek. When we picked up our permit, the rangers provided a code for the locked gate that allows only permitted hikers into Tall Trees Grove.

Updated: Starting in June 2020, backcountry permits are only being issued online, so our earlier experience is out of date. Permits can be requested up to 160 days in advance, but no later than 24 hours prior. If you want to park at Tall Trees Grove, which is what we did, then you must also have an additional Tall Trees Trail permit. This is also available online, and can be reserved 180 days in advance. You’ll need an all day permit for each day that you’re parked at the trailhead. There is a limit of 35 all-day permits, each day. The park recommends getting the Tall Trees permits first, before getting the backcountry permits. Once you have a Tall Trees permit, the gate access code will be sent 24 hours before your hiking date. All permits are free.

Day 1 – To the Trailhead

We took Bald Hills Road to Tall Trees trailhead – the same road we drove to Lyons Ranch a few days prior. After a few tries, we managed to unlock the gate, drove through, and hopped out again to lock the gate behind us. Beyond the gate is a six-mile winding gravel road.

Once we parked, we got our packs, and headed to Tall Trees Trail. There’s supposed to be an interpretive trail guide at the trailhead, but sadly none were available. We started on Tall Trees trail, which only goes for 100 feet before coming to a fork. Tall Trees trail continues on the right. The following day, we returned via Emerald Ridge Trail on the left.

Day 1 – Tall Trees Trail

Tall Trees Trail descends steadily among redwoods and other trees. Some of the redwood trees that had fallen on the trail had neat cutouts for us to travel through. We took our time, stopping occasionally to rest on a bench, and just enjoyed the scenery and peacefulness. Shortly before reaching Tall Trees Grove, there’s a pretty area with large redwood trees and benches.

After 1.4 miles, we reached Tall Trees Grove, and started exploring the upper part of Tall Trees Loop. Some trees are marked with a wooden post with a number etched into it. This matches up with the interpretive guide (if it’s available at the trailhead). Since we didn’t have the guide, we felt a bit lost, but we still appreciated the enormity of the trees.

The previous record holder of “world’s tallest tree” is in Tall Trees Grove. Howard Libby Tree, also called “Tall Tree,” held the title until 1994 when the top died back. It’s currently 368 feet tall and is the 34th tallest tree in the world. Since we didn’t have a trail brochure (a recurring theme) we didn’t know exactly which tree it was at the time, though we would find it on the lower part of Tall Trees Loop.

Day 1 – Redwood Creek

As we made our way through the grove, we passed a few other groups, and then saw our first glimpse of Redwood Creek through the trees. The trail led us onto a gravel bar for a better view. We took a break on the rocky beach. It was a gorgeous day – sunny with very blue sky.

A seasonal bridge crosses Redwood Creek from June-September. As we crossed it, we looked down through crystal clear, yet blue-green water, to the colorful rocks on the creek bed. We passed a trail on our left that leads to 44 camp (a backcountry campground), but we continued downstream on the gravel bars to make camp. Camping is allowed as long as your site is at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove.

It was about 3:30 p.m. and several groups had already set up camp nearby. They were well-spaced for privacy, and each stretch of beach has a good spot to camp. Fire rings are scattered around, generally near sandier areas. Fires are only allowed on Redwood Creek gravel bars. We reached our first stream crossing, and decided it was time to change into our water shoes. The water was cool, and the rocks were a bit slippery, but we made it across easily. The water was about a foot deep.

Immediately after crossing the stream, Kristin noticed something ahead of us. Small animals running from the shore toward the trees. She called out to me, and I grabbed my camera and managed to snap some photos. They were so small we initially thought they were squirrels. We don’t know exactly what they were – river otters or maybe minks? If anyone knows, please add a comment!

These were not the only animals we saw either. As we hiked, we saw tadpoles in a small, secluded part of the creek. Naturally, where there are tadpoles, there are frogs and toads. We started seeing a lot of them. They were small, about an inch wide, so they were probably juveniles. They blend in quite well so watch where you step!

As we went downstream, we crossed a few places (glad to have water shoes) until we found a sunny, sandy spot to set up camp. It was soon after the creek turned around a bend, so we had some privacy. The curve in the creek also allowed some sunlight in, which helped dry our damp clothing and shoes. We set up our tent and relaxed.

While we were relaxing, some other hikers came carrying a large cooler… we stared a bit. They continued past our campsite further downstream and we wondered how they would bear-proof the cooler. We had trouble ourselves finding a spot to hang our bear bag – there weren’t a lot of good branches along the creek bank. Eventually we found one, less than ideal, but the best we could do.

We loved camping on the beach. It was private, and we got to have dinner by the creek. There was easy access to a water source to filter. The park actually recommends filtering water from tributaries, rather than directly from Redwood Creek (see the Backcountry Guide). We weren’t aware of that when we were there, and we’re not sure why that is. We fell asleep to the sounds of the creek gurgling and frogs croaking.

Day 2 – Redwood Creek

The next morning we retrieved our bear bag, and enjoyed some oatmeal by the creek. There was lingering fog and it took a long time for the sun to burn it away. We packed our things, said goodbye, and headed back the way we came. The creek was colder than yesterday, and the sky threatened to rain – luckily it only amounted to a few brief showers.

When we reached the seasonal bridge back to Tall Trees Grove, we saw a group camping right outside the grove. Whoops. The park service provides info about campsite restrictions when you request a permit, but signs might help too. It was a bit awkward also, as we passed a group eating breakfast next to the trail.

Ducking back into the forest, we went through the lower portion of Tall Trees Loop. Like the upper portion, it boasts many large redwood trees. However, the lower portion has more of a prehistoric feel with its moss-covered maple trees and lush ferns.

Along much of the trail, we could see Redwood Creek to our right. Along this section is the Howard Libby Tree, once the world’s tallest tree (now the 34th tallest). In addition to the Libby Tree there is also Nugget, the world’s 3rd tallest tree and Paul Zahl, the world’s 17th tallest tree.

Soon we came to an intersection, and a sign that said “To Emerald Ridge Trail – Summer Use Only – Extensive Wading.” Yeah, that sounds about right. We turned onto the trail and were back on a rocky beach, similar to where we had camped. Our plan was to hike along (and in) the creek for 1.6 miles until we reached Emerald Ridge Trail.

This section of trail has more creek crossings. The first crossing was freezing cold as a inland shaded stream flowed into Redwood Creek. Around here, we passed the only group of people we’d see on this section of Redwood Creek. They were a group of 12 people from Australia and we chatted for a bit. They had 6 adults and 6 kids and had camped near the Emerald Ridge Trail. Since the water was deep in some places, some of them hiked out twice – once to carry gear, and once to carry their kids!

Continuing, we came upon longer crossings, with deeper water. Sometimes we had to walk in the creek for several hundred feet before getting to a bank. Other times it was like a maze. There were downed trees in the creek that we had to climb over. Reflections on the water prevented us from discerning its depth. It was a lot of fun!

At one point we couldn’t see any beach ahead of us, just water. We found what might be a path through bushes on land, but it became too dense. We went back in the water and went along the left side. Then it got too deep.  So, we doubled back and went on the right side, which worked for a while.  Then it got too deep, so we headed diagonally forward, back to the left side! 

We picked our way through slowly, and eventually made it to the next beach area. Even though we rolled our shorts up, they still got wet – giving us an idea of how deep the water was in some spots. We were in the water for maybe 15 minutes during this stretch. Trekking poles were necessary to help stabilize us and gauge water depth. Water shoes also helped us keep our balance.

Day 2 – Emerald Ridge Trail

Eventually we stopped and checked the map, and compared it to where our phone GPS placed us. That way we wouldn’t get lost and miss the left turn onto Emerald Ridge Trail. Judging by the map, we were almost there. Soon enough we spotted a tree with an orange marker, and headed toward it. As we got closer, we could read the word “TRAIL” on it. An adjacent sign told us this was Emerald Ridge Trail.

It had gotten quite warm and sunny – different from the foggy, drizzly morning. It was time to swap out our water shoes for hiking boots. Warm dry socks felt so good on our chilled feet. We clipped our soggy water shoes to our backpacks and continued.

Emerald Ridge Trail ascended through a tunnel of small trees and shrubs. The trail has some signs of erosion, due to its elevation gain, as it heads back to the parking lot. We came upon a recently downed tree that we climbed over. It’s a pleasant trail, but there’s not much else to note. We passed Dolason Prairie Trail and lamented that we wouldn’t have time to hike it.

We were getting a bit tired due to the incline, but we finally returned to the parking lot. Happy with our trip, we got in the car and headed out along the gravel road. When we got to the gate, there was a couple entering and they asked us if we had left the gate open. We had not, but apparently whoever entered the area before them neglected to lock the gate. Exiting could be a problem for parties who enter without the combination, so make sure you close and lock the gate!

This was our favorite hike in Redwood National & State Parks. It’s different than any hike we’d ever done. Hiking through a creek and seeing the large redwood trees was an experience. The animals we saw only added to the splendor of the trail. So yeah, we recommend this trip wholeheartedly. You won’t regret it (unless you get lost).

Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees Trail

Date Visited:July 19, 2017 – July 20, 2017
Type: Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 6.8 miles (10.9 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 973 feet (297 m)

• Day 1 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 2.6 miles (4.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 204 feet (62 m) gain, 916 feet (279 m) loss
  • Time: 3.5 hours hiking which includes occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A site along Redwood Creek
• Day 2 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 4.2 miles (6.7 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 769 feet (234 m) gain, 57 feet (17 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours hiking which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections. No markings along Redwood Creek.
Difficulty: Moderate, as long as you have the right equipment.
Crowds: About a half dozen groups along Redwood Creek; more near Tall Trees Grove.
Water: Redwood Creek, streams
Highlights: Large redwood trees, primeval forests, solitude, wildlife, streams, rocky beaches, wading through Redwood Creek
Note: There are many ways you can do this hike. The distances and elevations are just estimates based on what we did. Make sure you camp at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove. Water shoes and trekking poles are highly recommended for wading.
Directions to Tall Trees Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Tall Trees Trailhead, take Tall Trees Trail. After 100 feet, the trail splits. Stay right on Tall Trees Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – At the intersection with Tall Trees Loop, head right onto the upper portion of Tall Trees Trail.
• Mile 1.8 – Turn right onto the Redwood Creek Trail, that leads out of the forest. Once you get to the creek, you’ll see a seasonal bridge (in summer), across the creek. Cross the bridge and head right (downstream). Walk along the creek until you find a campsite.
• Mile 2.6 – This was around where we camped, but feel free to camp anywhere (at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove). Enjoy the river, and head back the same way in the morning.
• Mile 3.4 – Go back into Tall Trees Grove. This time, head right at the intersection with Tall Trees Trail – you’ll walk through the lower part of Tall Trees Loop. Near the end of this section is the Libby Tree.
• Mile 3.9 – Turn right at this intersection that heads toward Redwood Creek. A sign warns “To Emerald Ridge Trail – Summer Use Only – Extensive Wading.” Once at the creek, follow it upstream for 1.6 miles. There is no defined trail here, you’ll be wading from gravel bar to gravel bar.
• Mile 5.5 – Look for an orange marker on the left that says “TRAIL.” Turn left onto Emerald Ridge Trail, and leave the creek behind.
• Mile 5.9 – Continue straight, as you pass the intersection with Dolason Prairie Trail.
• Mile 6.8 – Intersection with Tall Trees Trail. Continue right for 100 feet and you’re back at the parking lot.

Places

• Hiouchi Visitor Center | 1600 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center | US Highway 101 at Orick, Calif.
• Tall Trees Trailhead | 41.2081242, -123.9953206
• Howard Libby Tree |41.20818, -124.013402
• Nugget Tree |41.20963, -124.01215
• Paul Zahl Tree | 41.20792, -124.01138
• Our Campsite on Redwood Creek | 41.219028, -124009484

Maps

• Redwood Creek & Tall Trees Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Backcountry Trip Planner (NPS)
• NPS Article on Tall Trees Grove
• Famous Redwoods – Tall Trees Grove Description
• Backcountry Permits (NPS)
• Backcountry Permit Requests (Redwood Parks Conservancy)
• Tall Trees Trail Permits (NPS)
• Tall Trees Trail Permits Requests (Redwood Parks Conservancy)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Type: Out and Back Hike
Distance: 4.0 miles (6.4 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 526 feet (160m)
Net Elevation Gain/Loss: 209 feet (63 m)
Date visited: April 20, 2017
Garwood Trail Map (KTNP)

Our intention was to visit as much of Saguaro National Park as we could.  Crisscrossing desert trails in the northwest corner of the Rincon Mountain (east) District are known as the Cactus Forest.  We wanted to hike somewhere up there, so we reserved a full day for it.  Our initial plan was to do a longer loop, but we were exhausted after backpacking to Manning Camp, so we decided on a shorter hike.  A ranger at the Rincon Visitor Center recommended a 4.0 mile out-and-back on Garwood Trail.  This option has many connecting trails, so it could easily be part of a loop or longer hike.

Garwood Trail has multiple points of interest.  First, there was a cristate or “crested” saguaro along the trail.  A cristate saguaro is a mutation that causes a saguaro’s cells in the stem to divide outward, rather than in the normal circular pattern.  As a result, the saguaro grows a large fan-shaped crest at the top.  Also along the trail is a cluster of 11 saguaro cacti growing within inches of each other.  Our hike would end at Garwood Dam which was built in the 1940s. You could go beyond the dam and spend a full day on the Cactus Forest trails; we just went to the dam and back.

After our stop at Rincon Visitor Center, we headed to Douglas Spring Trailhead.  The trail leads to the backcountry, and eventually to Manning Camp, though we decided on another route due to frequent overnight break-ins.  We figured it would be safe to park there for a few hours, though.  At the trailhead was a ramada (an open shelter with a roof), a picnic table, and a few other parked cars.

Garwood Trail

Our route began on Douglas Spring Trail, which intersects with Garwood Trail in 0.2 miles.  There isn’t much elevation gain, so this trail is more about views of cacti than landscape views.  We found a lot to like about the trail, and encountered some surprises.

We enjoyed the scenery, which included many saguaros, cholla, and other desert plants.  About 1.1 miles into the hike, shortly after the intersection with Wildhorse Trail, is the cluster of 11 saguaros – there were 13, but a few have died over the years.  It was unique to see all the saguaros close together, although I imagine more may die off as the cacti grow in size.

We continued the hike and very quickly, we saw our next point of interest: the cristate saguaro.  It’s nothing like the other saguaro, it’s very intricate and otherworldly.  It’s right next to the trail, and has a unique fan-shaped head, so you can’t miss it.  Cristate saguaros are rare; they comprise only one out of every 200,000 saguaros.  As of 2013, there were 30 in the Tucson Mountain (west) District and 27 in Rincon Mountain (east) District.  During our time in Saguaro, we only saw one other cristate saguaro, along the road near the Tanque Verde Trail parking lot.

We continued along the trail, Kristin in the lead, to get a better view of the cristate saguaro.  Suddenly, Kristin stopped.  She started backing up, so I asked what was wrong.  She whispered, “there’s a snake on the trail.”  I looked ahead to see a coiled up snake, with a diamond pattern, lying in the middle of the trail.  It was a Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, a venomous snake found in the southwestern United States.  It made no sound, rattle, or movement, as we stared at it.  Given its coloration, it blended easily into the trail, so we didn’t see it until we were close.

Naturally, I took out my camera and started taking photos.  Of course the snake was unaware that it was lying on a trail, just that it was nice and shaded.  Kristin wanted to turn back, I wanted to go around it somehow.  We sure weren’t going to jump over it!  I wanted to get a better look at the Cristate Saguaro, as well as the dam.  The snake picked a bad place for a nap.

We scoped out a way around on the left side of the trail.  I blazed a path beyond the snake with K following.  We moved slowly, quietly, and carefully, trying to avoid cholla berries or other snakes.  Soon we stepped out onto the trail beyond the snake.  We wouldn’t go off trail normally, but I think the situation called for it.  We look back at the snake, it’s still lying there lazily.  When I took my next photo, the snake’s eyes were open – was it watching us?  After snapping some quick photos of our new friend and the cristate saguaro, we continued on the trail past a wash.  Always exciting!

Carrillo Trail

After about another 0.2 miles from the cristate saguaro, we turned left on Carrillo Trail.  We spotted the dam about 0.2 miles away, and start quoting National Lampoon’s Vegas Vacation.  There were several pools of water down in the “canyon.”  There is no off-trail hiking in Saguaro below 4,500 feet, so visitors can only get so close to the dam.

The dam itself was built in 1948, before the land was part of the national park.  Back then it was owned by Nelson and Josephine Garwood, who constructed the dam to provide water for their ranch.  The property was sold off in 1950s and ’60s, until it was acquired by the park service in the 1970s.  The National Park Service has an article about Garwood Ranch if you’re interested in learning more.

After checking out the dam, we turned around and our thoughts went back to the rattlesnake.  Would it still be on the trail?  Of course it was; the trail was still shady.  So we went around the rattler again, giving it plenty of space.  Always respect nature, and be aware of your surroundings.  You never know what you’ll run into!  A month later, near Mary’s Rock in Shenandoah National Park, we ran into a Timber Rattlesnake.  This one surprised us by rattling as it crossed the trail.

Overall, we enjoyed this short hike in the cactus forest.  If we had more energy, it would have been nice to hike a longer loop.  My favorite part was the cristate saguaro, and I’d recommend the trail just to see it.  After our hike, we went into Tucson to grab lunch, then returned to the park to drive around Cactus Forest Loop Drive to see what else we could find.

Garwood Trail
Type: Out-and-back
Total Distance: 4.0 miles (6.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 526 feet (160 m)
Net Elevation Gain/Loss: 209 feet (63 m)
Time: 2 hours hiking with a couple breaks, mainly snake-related detours
Trail Markings: No cairns or blazes, but the trail is well-defined and there are signs at each intersection
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: None, we saw no one
Water: Some small pools of water near the dam
Directions to Douglas Spring Trailhead: Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – Start at Douglas Spring Trailhead, and go on Douglas Spring Trail.
• Mile 0.2 – Turn right onto Garwood Trail.  After 180 feet, you’ll pass another intersection with the Stock Bypass Trail.  Continue straight on Garwood Trail.
• Mile 0.5 – You’ll pass Converse Trail on your left; continue straight on Garwood Trail.
• Mile 1.0 – You’ll pass Bajada Wash Trail on your right, continue straight on Garwood Trail.
• Mile 1.1 – You’ve reached a four way intersection with Wildhorse Trail.  Continue on Garwood Trail, and in only 530 feet you’ll reach the clustered saguaros.
• Mile 1.5 – The cristate saguaro is on your left
• Mile 1.7 – Turn right onto Carrillo Trail
• Mile 2.0 – You’re at the dam!  After checking it out, head back the way you came.
• Mile 2.3 – Head right onto Garwood Trail.  Continue straight until it dead ends.
• Mile 3.8 – Turn left onto Douglas Spring Trail.
• Mile 4.0 – Back at the parking lot

Highlights: History, Water Features, Wildlife, Wildflowers, Solitude
Date Visited: We hiked this trail on April 20, 2017

Places:
Douglas Spring Trailhead | 14306 E Speedway Blvd, Tucson, AZ 85748
Garwood Dam | 32.21414, -110.69122

Maps:
Garwood Trail Map (KTNP)
Saguaro National Park Rincon District Map (NPS)

Links:
NPS Cristate Saguaro Article
NPS Garwood Ranch Article

The post Garwood Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Desert Orientation

A visit to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum seemed like a good place to start our adventure. Travis had never been to southern AZ, and I hadn’t visited the area in almost 20 years, so we wanted to learn about the climate, wildlife, and landscape. As we drove through Tucson, we saw gorgeous views of the mountains in the distance. I wish we could see mountains like that just driving around at home! As we got closer to the museum, which is just outside Saguaro NP, the roads became windy and hilly with a single lane on each side. Travis was driving, and I kept reminding him to go slow since we couldn’t really see over the hills. The occasional cyclist added an element of surprise.

We pulled into the museum parking lot and were greeted by the US, Mexican, and Arizona flags. The lot was crowded, but we found a spot after a short search. The museum is a pueblo style building – a low, unobtrusive structure with a flat roof – that blends well with the desert landscape. As we approached the museum, we had a gorgeous view of the Sonoran desert through an opening in the center. This indicates that most of the museum is outdoors, so you get the full experience (including unlimited direct sun).

We paid about $21 per person to enter, and headed through the gate. Our first stop was a board near the gift shop to see which docent programs were happening that day. There was a presentation on the saguaro cactus that afternoon, so we made a mental note and continued on. Next, we headed out back to take a walk in the desert landscape. We walked around the winding paths, and enjoyed viewing the saguaro with a mountain backdrop.

The heat and direct sun were getting to us, so we decided to take a break. After a stop at the bottle-filler (which we were very thankful for), we still felt overheated, so we went into the museum gift shop, which had glorious air conditioning. I browsed jewelry and knickknacks until we reached the small cafe at the back. After careful consideration, we each decided on a popsicle and a bag of chips. I’m not usually into popsicles, but this was no ordinary day. We took them outside to enjoy as we explored some of the exhibits – they were a huge help so we didn’t get overheated. Maybe I’m being dramatic, but we weren’t used to this kind of heat, especially in April!

Wildlife

The museum has viewing areas for many different animals. We saw an otter swimming in a pool. In was cool to watch him (or her) glide effortlessly through the water. An aviary had some more wildlife for us to see. It was a bit strange to hear and see birds flying overhead, and to round a corner only to find a huge bird sitting on a branch a few feet ahead. These guys are clearly used to having people nearby. Of course, the aviary is enclosed with a screen high overhead, and has lots of trees where the birds perch, so it provides some respite from the sun.

Travis’s favorite spot was the hummingbird exhibit. He loves to take photos of wildlife, and he would spend hours snapping photos if I let him. Several other visitors were also trying to get that perfect hummingbird photo, so it got a bit crowded in spots. Some of the hummingbirds were tiny, and in unexpected colors. If you looked closely, you could also spot their nests.

Docent Presentations

There are many docents scattered around the museum. One showed us a young desert tortoise. It was really cool to observe up close. Visitors over age 3 can touch the shell. Apparently, this is because you can get Salmonella from turtles. Who knew?

We ran into another docent who asked us if we were interested in jojoba oil. We weren’t. But we didn’t want to be rude, and it turned out to be pretty interesting – what caught our attention was that there are male and female jojoba trees, and they’re pollinated by the wind. She showed us how to differentiate between the two. We thought this was actually pretty cool, and something we could look for on the trail.

Soon it was time for the saguaro decent presentation. We met in Vista Ramada, a small covered porch area with a great view of the Sonoran desert. There were a few others attending the talk, including a family with a child. The docent made jokes, was very informative, and especially made sure to engage the child in conversation.

We learned that a saguaro cactus has a wood skeleton (I had been wondering what gave them their structure, but never thought to ask). This made sense, since they can grow up to 40 feet tall. There was a dead saguaro right next to the porch, so you could see its wood “skeleton.” As a teacher, I consider myself a lifelong learner, so I gave this presentation a thumbs up.

When we needed our next shade break, we headed into another indoor section of the museum: the reptile house. There were tarantulas, snakes, lizards, and…that was enough for me. So we filled up our bottles again and headed back outside.

Desert Loop Trail

One of the coolest features of this museum is that it has its own trail. It’s situated behind the museum, in the desert landscape. A warning sign explains the trail’s purpose and amenities. I recommend taking plenty of water, sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat…and maybe a popsicle.

As we walked the paved loop trail, we looked for wildlife among the desert vistas. Even though signs and the museum map indicates where the animals are located, we had to search to find them. We were also introduced to some desert plants including the saguaro (who saw that coming?) and the ocotillo.

After walking the desert loop, we were tired, hot, and the museum was about to close, so that was our cue to go get dinner. Being from DC, we are used to having access to many great museums free of charge. However, we were happy to support the mission of the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, and recommend that others visit it, too. The docents are friendly and knowledgeable. You’ll learn a lot, and be able to spot some really cool desert wildlife. And you can further support the museum by grabbing a cool treat on a hot day.

Places
Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum | 2021 N Kinney Rd, Tucson, AZ 85743 | Open 8:30am – 5pm daily

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