We planned to hike Grinnell Glacier Trail while staying at Many Glacier Hotel in Glacier National Park. The trail provides up-close views of three lakes and three glaciers. While you can hike the entire way from Many Glacier Hotel (11.8 mi) or the nearby trailhead (10.2 miles), another option is to take a boat from the foot of Swiftcurrent Lake, just outside the hotel. We chose the latter option, which shortens the hike to 6.9 miles, while providing another unique view of the area.

Not wanting to leave anything to chance, we booked our boat tickets about four months in advance. There are two morning boats to choose from. The 8:30 option was already full, so we opted for the 9 a.m. There are later boats, but we wanted plenty of time to hike. If you miss the return boat, you can always walk back to Many Glacier Hotel. I can’t overstate the importance of planning ahead when visiting a popular park like Glacier.

The trail and surrounding area are named for American naturalist and writer George Bird Grinnell (1849 – 1938). In 1885, he visited the area, including the glacier that now bears his name. He was also influential in the establishment of Glacier as a national park in 1910. Mount Grinnell, Grinnell Lake, and Upper Grinnell Lake are also named for him.

The day before our hike, we checked out of Fish Creek Campground in West Glacier. We had decided to take the day to whitewater raft along the Middle Fork Flathead River. It was a blast, and Travis only fell in once. Our raftmates were a family of three from Blacksburg, VA. Travis went to Virginia Tech, so we had some good conversation. They mentioned wanting to hike Grinnell Glacier Trail the next day as well, but they didn’t have boat tickets. So we parted ways, wondering if we’d see them on the trail.

Boat Tour Across Swiftcurrent and Josephine Lakes

After our rafting trip, we drove Going to the Sun Road and checked into Many Glacier Hotel. The next morning, we headed to the dock behind the hotel around 8:30 a.m. to get our tickets. There were people waiting for the boat, and others trying to buy last-minute tickets. About 10 minutes before our tour, they let us board the boat, Chief Two Guns. There were some no-shows, so a few people who were waiting got on as well. In all, there were 50 people including the captain onboard.

Two separate boat rides are included, first across Swiftcurrent Lake, and then across Lake Josephine. A short 0.2 mile hike over a hill connects the two. For the Swiftcurrent portion, our captain was Linnea, the daughter of two Glacier park rangers. She gave a talk about the history of the lodge, geology, and wildlife in the surrounding area, and even pointed out a beaver lodge. She was very knowledgeable, and it was nice to sit back, relax, and learn. During the tour, a few passengers at a time could go out on the bow of the boat to check out the view.

Along the way, the mountain and lake views are stunning. I could just make out Salamander Glacier from the boat. I spotted what I thought was a waterfall, and debated with the other passengers whether it was snow or in fact a waterfall (surprisingly, I was right). Before we knew it, we had docked at the opposite end of the lake.

After our quick five minute hike, we found ourselves on the shore of Lake Josephine. Our next boat, Morning Eagle, was waiting. It was a quick trip across the lake. Along the way we saw hikers on the trail adjacent to the lake, which reminded us that there are options if you aren’t able to get boat tickets. At the final dock near the head of Lake Josephine, we passed a shelter area where passengers can wait for the boat. There’s a pit toilet nearby too, but it was in poor shape (hopefully it’s been repaired by now).

Josephine Walk

It was time to officially start our hike. Our route first skirted the head of Lake Josephine. We passed an intersection with a trail that goes directly to Grinnell Lake. However, we took the more leisurely route along a narrow boardwalk in a boggy area. Travis spotted a frog and some orchids along this section. We then crossed a bridge over Cataract Creek, which flows into Lake Josephine.

The boardwalk continues after the bridge, and we came to an intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail. We turned left, away from the lake, and shortly came to another intersection with Grinnell Glacier Trail. This is where the route joins the main trail.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Here, the trail rapidly ascends up switchbacks. The tree cover becomes less dense as the elevation increases. This day would turn out to be the hottest that we experienced in the park, in the low 90s Fahrenheit. The heat, plus the lack of shade, made this one of the hardest hikes we did in Glacier.

We took a quick break in the shade of a pine tree, and the fresh fragrance lingered in the air. I had no idea it smelled so good – sweet and floral, nothing like artificial pine scent. There were panoramic views of Lake Josephine, and Grinnell Lake became visible as we continued on. Looking behind us, we could see Swiftcurrent Lake. We imagined how glaciers carved out the valleys over thousands of years. The views are unreal, and totally worth it even if you don’t hike all the way to Grinnell Glacier.

The views get even better as we ascended. Waterfalls and wildflowers were everywhere. Perhaps the most interesting plant we saw was bear grass, a distinctive puffy white wildflower. We crossed a few streams flowing across the trail. I was wearing a buff around my neck to prevent sunburn, so I dipped it in a stream and then draped it back around my neck to cool off. Highly recommend.

Not surprisingly, the trail was crowded. The vast majority of hikers greeted us, and were considerate, particularly where the trail was narrow. Conversely, there were a couple people who just plowed ahead.

Suddenly, we spotted some familiar faces: our friends from whitewater rafting the previous day! They were heading down while we were heading up. We were impressed since they had hiked the whole way, and clearly made it to Grinnell Glacier well before us. We said hi, and would have chatted further, but the trail was too narrow and crowded to hold an extended conversation.

As we hiked, snowmelt created many small waterfalls along the trail. One waterfall flowed directly onto the trail, so we were pretty much guaranteed to get wet. There was kind of a way to go around it, but most people didn’t bother, since it was a hot and sunny day. We stowed our camera gear, then we went for it. The water was very refreshing, but if it had been a cool or windy day, we would have tried to go around.

At this point, we were almost directly above Grinnell Lake, which was a gorgeous shade of aquamarine. A few patches of snow came into view as we gained elevation, and we spotted some glacial lilies nearby. The panoramic views along this trail showcase the mountains, lakes, glaciers, trees, and striking topography of the area.

After about 2.7 miles on Grinnell Glacier Trail, we arrived at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area, which boasts benches, trees (yay shade), and two pit toilets. It’s the main stop before the climb to Upper Grinnell Lake and the glaciers, so it was unsurprisingly crowded. Some people were eating lunch here. We had planned to eat lunch by one of the glaciers, so we took a short break before continuing on.

Grinnell Glacier

From the picnic area, we quickly made it 0.4 miles to the top. We stood above Upper Grinnell Lake, enjoying the view. Looking up, we saw Salamander Glacier. To our left was Grinnell Glacier, or rather, what remained of it. Salamander used to be part of Grinnell Glacier, but they separated due to melting sometime before 1929. Between 1966 and 2015, Grinnell Glacier lost almost 45% of its area, which contributed to forming Upper Grinnell Lake. Salamander has lost about 23% in the same period. Currently, there are only 26 active glaciers left in the park (to be considered active, a glacier must to be larger than 25 acres).

We headed closer to the lake, which is a brilliant blue color due to glacial flour. Waterfalls ran down the side of the mountains into the lake, and large ice chunks floated on the water. To the south is Mount Gould, and to the north is Mount Grinnell. The Highline Trail runs on the other side of a rock feature called the Garden Wall. From the Highline Trail, hikers can take Garden Wall Trail to an overlook above Grinnell Glacier. Gem Glacier, the smallest named glacier in the park, is situated below Mount Gould and above Grinnell Glacier. In fact, it’s so small now at around 5 acres, that it’s no longer considered an active glacier.

It was pleasantly cool due to the lake and glaciers, so we took the opportunity to relax and eat lunch with a view. While we had reached the end of the official trail, there are plenty of social trails and viewing areas for a closer look. Visitors should avoid walking on Grinnell Glacier itself (or any glacier), as there are hidden crevices that you can fall into.

After soaking up views of the lake and glaciers, we started our journey back down. The three lakes we passed earlier – Grinnell, Josephine, and Swiftcurrent – aligned in the valley below as we descended. The view of these three lakes surrounded by mountains is perhaps one of Glacier’s most iconic.

On the way down, we talked to a hiker who mentioned a bear sighting on the trail ahead. Another hiker later on mentioned that a park ranger had scared it away, so we didn’t end up seeing it. It’s extremely helpful to share any relevant safety information with other hikers, and we found ourselves doing the same on other trails throughout our trip.

We completed our hike relatively quickly, since we planned to return before the last boat departed at 5:15 pm. We arrived at the dock around 4:50 pm, where there were a number of people waiting and enjoying the sun and scenery. Round-trip ticket holders (like us) have priority, though you can also get a one-way ticket. If the boat couldn’t accommodate everyone, it would return as necessary.

The boat pulled up at 5:15 pm. It was completely full, and only about 20 passengers got off. We were able to board, but some people had to wait for the boat to return. Now that I think about it, a boat ride to the head of Lake Josephine, followed by a 3.2 mile hike back to Many Glacier Hotel, would make for a nice afternoon excursion.

We arrived back at the hotel ravenous and tired, but happy. We immediately hopped in the car and drove about 5 minutes to Nell’s at Swiftcurrent to grab some dinner. Despite the crowds, the hike to Grinnell Glacier was a great opportunity to see and learn a lot. It’s arguably the easiest glacier to access in the park, and the boat ride adds another element of interest. Even if you’re only in the park for a short time, I highly recommend this dayhike.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Date: Tuesday, July 23, 2019
Type: Dayhike Out and Back
Total Distance: 6.9 miles (11.2 km) from the boat dock. 10.2 miles (16.4 km) from trailhead.
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1824 feet (556 m) from Boat Dock. 1969 feet (600 meters) from trailhead.
Time: 9 hours total, including boat and hiking. Active hiking time was 7 hours. The boat ride from Many Glacier to Lake Josephine (including both legs plus the short hike) is about an hour, each way.
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: High
Water: Lakes, streams, and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, glaciers, water features, boardwalk, marsh, wildflowers, lakes
Directions to Trailhead: Grinnell Glacier Trailhead
Notes: We recommend taking the boat if you can, but the longer hike from Grinnell Glacier Trailhead is also a good option

Trail Directions – From Lake Josephine Boat Dock

• 0.0 mi – From the boat dock on Lake Josephine, walk 150 feet on Josephine Walk Trail. Keep right to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Horse Trail. After another 150 feet, continue straight to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Foot Trail. The trail will transition to a boardwalk temporarily. Follow signs for Grinnell Glacier.
• 0.2 mi – Cross over Cataract Creek on a bridge that flows into Lake Josephine
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail, keep left on Josephine Walk Trail
• 0.4 mi – Turn left onto Grinnell Glacier Trail
• 3.1 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 3.5 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier. When done exploring, head back down the way you came.
• 3.8 mi – Arrive back at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 6.5 mi – Turn right onto Josephine Walk Trail
• 6.6 mi – At the intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail, keep right to stay on Josephine Walk Trail
• 6.7 mi – Cross the bridge over Cataract Creek
• 6.9 mi – At the intersection with Grinnell Lake Foot Trail, continue straight to stay on Josephine Walk Trail. After 150 feet, turn left to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Horse Trail. Go another 150 feet to reach Lake Josephine Dock, where you can wait for the boat.

Trail Directions – From Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

• 0.0 mi – From the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead, head south on Swiftcurrent Lake Trail
• 0.8 mi – Pass the dock at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake, then turn left onto North Shore Josephine Lake Trail
• 1.7 mi – At the fork, keep right to go onto Grinnell Glacier Trail
• 2.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Josephine Walk Trail
• 4.8 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 5.1 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier. When done exploring, head back down the way you came.
• 5.4 mi – Arrive back at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 8.2 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Josephine Walk Trail
• 8.5 mi – Continue straight onto North Shore Josephine Walk Trail
• 9.4 mi – Turn left onto Swiftcurrent Lake Trail. Pass the dock at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake.
• 10.2 mi – Back at the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

Maps

• Grinnell Glacier Trail Map (KTNP)
• Many Glacier Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Grinnell Glacier Trailhead (NPS)
• Grinnell Glacier Historical Photos (NPS)
• USGS Glacier Status

Elevation Graph – From Lake Josephine Boat Dock

Elevation Graph – From Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

Interactive Map

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Our hiking journey in Japan had been challenging due to Typhoon Prapiroon. It prevented us from summiting both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake. Though disappointed, we were still optimistic about our longest and most-anticipated hike to Mount Yari (槍ヶ岳, Yarigatake) in Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen). We had planned a three-day, 32.6 km (20.3 mi) trek, staying in mountain huts along the way. Our one-way route took us from Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), to Mount Yari, then to Shinhotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉). Thankfully, this trip turned out better than both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake.

Planning: Route

When researching where to hike in Japan, we stumbled upon Kamikochi – a scenic mountainous region within Chubusangaku National Park. Subsequent searching led to Mount Yari. The mountain is named after the Japanese word for “spear,” as the tip of the mountain looks rather sharp. Mount Yari is 3,180 meters (10,433 feet) tall and is the fifth tallest mountain in Japan.

The timing of our trip was important. Mt. Yari can get crowded, especially from mid-July through August. This is especially due to schools letting out for summer break. When we went in early July, it was significantly less crowded. However, we also had to consider the impact of the rainy season (early June through mid-July), which turned out to be significant.

There are multiple routes to the top of Mount Yari. A popular route is a loop from Kamikochi to Mount Yari, and then to Mount Hotaka (穂高岳, Hotaka-dake). It’s often called the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit. We were interested in it, but were put off by the section between Yari and Hotaka called the Daikiretto which means “big cut” in Japanese. It’s extremely steep and dangerous (people die there every year), with exposed ascents and descents. While I was intrigued, Kristin was not open to that option. Probably for the best, considering the wet weather we encountered.

Instead, we decided on a one-way route that started in Kamikochi and ended in Shinhotaka Onsen. Our trip would be three days and two nights, and we planned to stay in mountain huts along the trail. Each day of the journey would be strenuous, especially the second and third days. In early July, there was still a chance that we’d have to hike across snow fields. Just in case, we brought some inexpensive crampons, which (spoiler alert) came in handy.

Planning: Accommodations

Most mountain huts in Chubusangaku National Park provide meals and overnight accommodations. This meant we wouldn’t need to bring a tent, sleep system, or cooking gear. Sleep arrangements are typically dormitory style with wide bunks, though sometimes private rooms are available. If you prefer to camp, there are also campgrounds along the route.

Some mountain huts require reservations, but the ones we chose in 2018 did not. But, as of 2020, they now require reservations. These can be made online, even if you can’t speak Japanese. There are many lodges other than the ones we picked, so you can really customize a trip however you choose. Campgrounds typically don’t require reservations.

As of summer 2024, Yarisawa Lodge and Yarigatake Sanso cost ￥15,500 (~$100) per person per night for accommodations and three meals (dinner, breakfast, and to-go bento). The price can be reduced by forgoing some of the meals. An extra ￥12,000 (~$80) will get you a small private room. Mountain hut pricing differs, so be sure to bring yen regardless of the cost. Credit cards are not usually accepted.

To conclude our hike, we made a reservation at Yarimikan in the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. We wanted to experience an onsen, and Yarimikan has private baths. An onsen seemed like a great spot to relax after our 3-day journey.

Planning: Maps

English hiking maps of Japan are difficult to find. So, we bought Japanese maps and made it work. We had both paper and electronic maps. For paper maps, we got Mapple Map #40 from Amazon Japan for ￥1320 (~$10), which detailed the surrounding area. The map shipped quickly, and is good waterproof quality, though the NatGeo maps in the US are tougher. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”

As far as electronic maps, we downloaded Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) from Android Play. It’s free to install the app, then you purchase the specific map(s) you’re looking for. It provides an electronic version (same as Mapple’s paper version), plus you can see your location on it. We appreciated having both the paper and electronic versions, just in case.

After opening the app, you’re greeted by a “sign” with three options. The first option will go to your purchased maps (there’s a free sample map). At the bottom of that screen is a button that allows you to select other maps to purchase. Clicking on any of the maps leads to a product page where you can see more information. At the bottom of that page is a button that you click to buy that map. Currently, each electronic map costs $4.49.

Generally Japanese trails themselves don’t have names like they do in the United States. Instead, trail signs point to the destination at each intersection. So, we would follow trail signs to Mt. Yari. Similarly, Japanese trail maps don’t list distances. Instead, they list the approximate time from intersection to intersection in both directions. I can appreciate that, but I’d rather have the distance since hikers move at different speeds.

To help other travelers, we created a map for this hike in English and Japanese. Hopefully it helps if you’re planning a similar trip. Use at your own discretion, but we tried our best to make it helpful. We were given an English map when we got to the park, but it wasn’t as detailed or extensive as we would have liked, so we didn’t rely on it. Instead, we used the Mapple ones.

Planning: Gear

When we climbed Yarigatake in early July, there were still some snow fields. Just in case, we had brought crampons with us. And we were glad we had them, though we saw some climbers not using them. We also used trekking poles, and recommend doing so regardless of when you hike due to large elevation gains and losses. The snow fields would likely be greatly reduced by late July.

Due to snow melt, there were streams everywhere and it was easy to find water. We brought our Sawyer Squeeze water filter and found it helpful. Water is also available at huts. Generally, unless you stayed at a particular hut, you would need to purchase your water.

Since we were staying at huts, we didn’t need a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, or cooking gear. This lightened our load considerably. We brought smaller backpacks – an Osprey Kestrel 38 for me, and Osprey Kyte 36 for Kristin. We both brought a rain jacket and rain pants, which were helpful. We also had small umbrellas which seemed like a strange item to bring on a backpacking trip, but turned out to be invaluable in this case.

Most of our snacks were brought from the United States, but we augmented our stash with Japanese ones too. It was fun trying different things that aren’t available at home. The mountain huts took care of breakfast, lunch, and dinner. For lunch, we requested a bento from the hut, which we’d eat on the trail. That made it simpler and easier than packing our own lunches. Mountain huts also sell snacks, though they’re understandably expensive.

Day 0 – Arriving at Kamikochi

On Friday we arrived at Kamikochi, and tried to determine whether our Mt. Yari trip would be possible given the typhoon. We went to the nearby information center to ask. The workers there were super helpful, and told us there was currently an impassable stream on the stretch from Mt. Yari to Shinhotaka Onsen. Bummer. We hoped that the weather would improve, but it continued to rain the rest of the day.

On Saturday, we inquired again and were told the same thing. Sunday was when we would be starting our backpacking trip. Conflicted, we headed back to Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (西糸屋山荘, Nishi Itoya Sansō), where we were staying in Kamikochi. We requested another night there, since we had decided not to hike Mount Yari.

Instead, one of the staff tried to convince us to hike Yari. He showed us the forecast, which was not great for our first day, but seemed to be good for the following days. The man was a guide who had done the hike to Yari multiple times. We went back and forth, but in the end, he convinced us to go for it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right? Plus, this might be our only chance to do this hike. We made the right call, as the trip was fabulous. Thanks to the staff member at Nishi-ito-ya who got us to reconsider!

Day 1 – Leaving Kamikochi

Nishi-ito-ya in Kamikochi is a great lodge, and the staff was so friendly. Before leaving, we sent our luggage to Yarimikan via Takyubin. It’s a very handy luggage forwarding service that we used multiple times while in Japan. Leaving Nishi-ito-ya, we headed north along the path, past Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi) on our right. We decided to travel along the north side of the Azusa River so we could visit Myojin Pond (明神池, Myojinike) and Hotaka Shrine. It added about 15 minutes to our hike (compared to taking the path south of the river), but we didn’t want to miss these spots.

The rain continued as we walked along the river. Everything was drenched, but people were still out exploring. We were able to use our umbrellas, as the trail was fairly wide. Before long, we came upon Dakesawa Marsh (sometimes translated as Takezawa), which has a boardwalk. The area was flooded, but thankfully the water was still below the boardwalk. It’s beautiful, and the rain almost enhanced its beauty. And I’m a sucker for boardwalks and marshes.

After the marsh, we continued walking over bridges and past roaring streams. All the rushing streams head toward the Azusa river. We came upon an area with wide boardwalks along the river. At this point we saw how high the river had gotten based on it’s height compared to the trees. It was kind of daunting, as the rain continued to fall.

Day 1 – Myojin Pond

The rain started picking up even more as we reached a gravel road. We walked on it for a short time before getting onto another trail which ran parallel to the road. Eventually though, part of the trail was closed due to the high water, so we had to hike on the road. A truck trundled past us, and eventually we reached Myojin Pond and Hotaka-Okumiya Shrine. Part of the shrine is free to access, and you can pay ¥500/person to access Myojin Pond. We decided to pay the extra fee, bought a nice charm, and got our goshuin stamped. The pond is very serene and picturesque, and we were glad we got to see it. However we aren’t convinced it was worth the price we paid. The shrine is a branch of the main Hotaka Shrine, which is near Matsumoto.

Near Hotaka-Okumiya shrine is a small lodge called Kamonji-Goya. It was almost time for lunch, so we took a look at the menu, but nothing struck our fancy. The restaurant is actually quite famous, but we didn’t know that until later. At Myojin Bridge, we crossed the Azusa River. There were some free port-a-potties at the bridge too, if you’re in need of a restroom. On the other side of the bridge is a lodge called Myojinkan, where we hoped to get lunch.

It was still raining (surprise!). We avoided puddles, and saw people here and there. We arrived at Myojinkan – it’s a nice hut with a good selection of food and an English language menu (with pictures). I ordered the gyudon and Kristin got some tempura udon. Both were solid. We also grabbed a C.C. Lemon, one of our favorite Japanese soft drinks, from a nearby vending machine. Most vending machines in Kamikochi seemed to have it.

Leaving Myojinkan, we got out our umbrellas again. The next section is a flat, easy hike along the river. As we hiked, the rain started tapering off. And before we knew it, the sun started peeking out! We were overjoyed. It was the first time we saw the sun in four days. Invigorated, we continued on, enjoying views of mountains and the river. Along this section is a small pond called Furuike (古池, Old Pond), which is beautifully clear and mirror-like due to incoming spring water.

Day 1 – Tokusawa and Yokoo-Sanso

After crossing a stream that flows into the Azusa River, we entered a wooded area. From a distance, we spotted Tokusawa Lodge and went to check it out. There, we took a quick snack break. Shortly after, we passed free bathrooms, Tokusawa Campground, and Tokusawa-en Lodge. Past the Tokusawa area, we encountered mostly rolling hills where the trail is wide and follows the river. Eventually the trail narrows, and we passed a beautiful suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) that heads back across the river. We didn’t cross it, but couldn’t resist taking some photos.

We reached Yokoo-Sanso, the last lodge before Yarisawa, and noticed restrooms and a campground nearby. Checking our map, we saw that we were about 1 hour and 40 minutes away from Yarisawa. We weren’t sure whether to trust the time on the map, but it was 3:30 p.m., and dinner is served at Yarisawa at 5:00 p.m. I went into Yokoo-Sanso and asked the staff to call Yarisawa and let them know we’d be late. We wouldn’t get the usual dinner, instead it will be dehydrated curry, but we were okay with that (and we didn’t have a choice).

Confident that we’d be able to get some dinner that night, we grabbed another C.C. Lemon from a vending machine and continued on. The wide level path becomes more of a hiking trail here. It narrows, becomes rocky, and the trail starts to ascend significantly for the first time. As the trail took us closer to the river, we could see the beautiful rushing water. The air around us cooled, and we could see our breath.

The trail continued ascending and we spotted a sign along the trail. With my basic Japanese language skills, I read “Ganbatte!” which means “do your best” in English. It was a nice motivator, and we knew we were getting close. 10 minutes later, we saw the lodge and celebrated.

Day 1 – Yarisawa Lodge

Checking into the Yarisawa Lodge, we paid for our three meals and accommodations. We decided not to spend extra money for a private room. The staff started making our dehydrated curry. Kristin had to get the vegetarian curry because the beef one had milk in it. She was glad that they were able to accommodate her dietary restriction.

While our food was being prepared, we checked out the dorm area. We had spots on a top bunk, and were relieved to see that we had the whole row to ourselves. That’s one benefit of visiting during the off season. There were other guests below and across from us. Only about 15 people were staying the night, and we appreciated that the staff spread the guests out for privacy. Next to our bunk was a small window that overlooked the river.

Yarisawa has a drying room, so we grabbed our wet gear from the morning and went to check it out. We headed downstairs, past the public bath (which is open briefly at a designated time) and restrooms. We opened the door and immediately felt the intense heat of the drying room. There were shelves, clips, and hangers everywhere. All our gear dried within a few hours, except for our boots which were soaked.

Our dinner was ready, so we went into the dining room and ate our curry and rice. It was pretty good! We were just happy to eat at that point, though we wondered what the regular meal had been like. After finishing up, we explored the hut, and decided to go to bed early. Many hikers in Japan wake up before dawn, and breakfast would start at 5:30 a.m.

The pillow was weird, and the futon not super comfortable, but we fell asleep quickly. At 4 a.m. we were awakened by our bunkmates below. They continually rustled their bags as they packed up to leave. Like plastic grocery bags. Rustle, rustle, rustle. For about 30 minutes before they left the lodge. Some hikers like to get a really early start. We just wished they had packed the night before.

Day 2 – Leaving Yarisawa

Around 6 a.m. the next morning, we went to the dining room to join 8 or so other guests that stayed for breakfast. Some hikers start their day early and have breakfast on the trail, but that wasn’t an option for us. Plus, we wanted the full mountain hut experience. Breakfast was simple but good: miso soup and rice, both served family style, as well as veggies, tea, and a small piece of fish. We talked to a few other guests, and learned that several other hikers were heading to Yarigatake too.

After breakfast, we picked up our lunch bento, packed up, and filled up our water bottles. We purchased a couple of overpriced snacks, and Kristin bought a souvenir bear bell. It was 7:30 a.m. when we headed out. Immediately outside Yarisawa was a telescope. Curious, we peered through it and saw a very sharp mountain peak – Mt. Yari (Yarigatake). It was distant, but we appreciated knowing that our destination was in sight. We’d be hiking 5.7 km (3.5 mi) and ascending 1396 meters (4580 feet) that day. And, finally, the weather was gorgeous!

Finally, the trail started to ascend. It was rocky but easy going. We continued until we reached a shelter area (we later learned it’s called Babadaira Campground) with a restroom. As we ascended, we started seeing beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and valley. Clear alpine streams rushed down the mountainside due to the melting snow. Sometimes these streams were running on the trail itself. We saw a few other hikers going the opposite direction, but otherwise it was a quiet trail.

Eventually we broke out our bentos to see what they were. They were large, rectangular onigiri with lotus root, egg, and veggies. We weren’t sure of all the ingredients, but it was delicious. Savory with a slight sweetness, it was the best bento that we got from a lodge/hut in Japan.

Day 2 – Across Snow Fields

After lunch, we reached the first of four snow fields. It was a bit scary, never having crossed them before. We had brought some cheap, probably not great quality, four-point crampons. We strapped them over our boots, went slow, and also relied on our trekking poles to cross the snow field. I wished we had brought some microspikes or better crampons, but we got across without issue. We saw other hikers that didn’t use any crampons, but…I’d still recommend bringing something. The first snow field was the shortest, while the snow fields at higher elevation were larger.

We crossed a longer snow field, then spotted a cave. Banryu (1786-1840), a Buddhist priest and the first known climber of Yarigatake (1828), stayed in this cave for 54 days, while chanting constantly. Inside the cave are a few Jizo statues. After leaving the cave, we came to our longest snow crossing, which we took slowly and carefully.

Eventually we started seeing boulders with numbers painted on them. Initially, we thought the numbers represented the hiking distance to the peak of Mt. Yari, or the elevation. However, we eventually realized it’s actually the elevation gain required to reach the top in meters. It was a nice measure of our progress, which gave us renewed energy. In the rock scramble sections, some rocks had large Xs and Os on them, indicating where to go (the Os) or avoid (the Xs), which was useful since the terrain wasn’t a defined path.

As we climbed higher, the spear-shaped peak of Yarigatake came into view again. Eventually, we spotted Yarigatake Sanso, just below the peak, where we would spend the night. It was a rough climb, but we eventually made it around 2:45 p.m. We were exhausted, but thrilled that we were finally there. Behind us were amazing views of the area we had just hiked through.

Day 2 – Summiting Yarigatake

At Yarigatake Sanso, we reserved our bunks and set our gear aside. Hikers can climb the peak of Yarigatake, situated just next to the lodge. We knew we wouldn’t have time the next day, so we decided to go ahead and do it. We had an hour or so before dinner, which turned out to be just enough time.

Climbing to the peak of Yari is not for the fainthearted. It’s a vertical climb aided by ladders, chains, and scrambling. I thought it was tons of fun, but Kristin thought it was scary. The routes up and down the peak are mostly separate, so you won’t run into people going the opposite direction. A few sections are combined, and hikers must be patient.

Making our way up the peak, we held onto the chains and ladders as we scrambled our way to just below the summit. From there, two ladders lead to the very top. Some climbers coming down mentioned that the ladders felt a bit loose. That was kind of scary to hear, but we proceeded and they seemed secure to us.

A small shrine sits at the summit (of course). The peak was shrouded in a dense fog. It was hard to see out any distance, but we did get a view of Yarisanso and glimpses of the surrounding mountains. After a few minutes, we carefully climbed back down. Here are more details about climbing the peak.

Day 2 – Dinner at Yarigatake Sanso

Back at Yarisanso, we were starving. Thankfully, it was dinner time! Unlike Yarisawa, we had arrived in plenty of time to eat. Everyone filed into the huge dining room. It could probably seat hundreds of people, though there were only about 15 guests. Nice thing about it not being peak season yet.

Sitting down at a table with others, we each had a plate of hamburger steak (hambagu) and veggies. As usual, rice and miso soup were served family style. There was another foreigner beside us, a solo British man, who was very nice. We also met and chatted with a Japanese woman who lives in Seattle. Everyone else appeared to be Japanese, and we talked with them as much as we could. A couple of guys even poured miso soup on their rice and told us it was “Japanese soul food.”

In the dining room, and the hut in general, there was a wonderful sense of camaraderie. We shared another C.C. Lemon (we’re addicted) from the vending machine. The machine also had beer, but I wasn’t feeling it (nor did it seem like the best choice for a multi-day hiking trip).

After dinner, we went upstairs to request a bento for the following day. We also inquired about the water crossing that we would reach the next day (it had been impassable for few days due to the typhoon). The staff showed us a photo of the area on an iPad. It was very hard to tell, but we thought it would be doable, so we continued with our original plan to hike to Shinhotaka Onsen. Not that we really had a backup in mind.

We went outside on the patio to take some more photos. The clouds had lifted a bit and we gazed out over the horizon. And what did we see? Mt. Fuji. It’s unmistakable due to its distinctive shape. Having been forced to abandon our plans of hiking it earlier in our trip, it was therapeutic to see it now.

We wanted to get to bed early. Our bunk was on the bottom this time, a welcome change compared with Yarisawa. Across the aisle, we spotted an older Japanese couple – our bunkmates from the previous night. Turns out they spoke some English and we had a nice conversation. And we felt a little bad that we complained about them rustling their bags early in the morning. We hope when we’re their age, we can still hike and backpack.

Day 3 – Leaving Yarigatake Sanso

We woke to the lovely sounds of bag rustling again at 4 a.m. After getting a bit more sleep, we got up around 6 a.m. We enjoyed a simple and tasty breakfast of salmon, veggies, egg, miso soup, and rice. Today would be the longest day; we would hike 12.1 km (7.5 mi) and descend 2093 meters (6867 feet). There would also be a water crossing of unknown difficulty. We were excited, but not sure how the trip would go, so we packed and headed out at 7:15 a.m.

Saying goodbye to the lodge, we headed through the adjacent campground. Its many sites are intricately laid out along and below the ridgeline, though only a few groups were using it. I was glad we stayed in the lodge. I’m not sure I trust the campground in high winds given that it’s so exposed – plus not having to bring a tent, sleeping bag, or meals is a huge advantage.

After leaving the campground, we came to an intersection. We turned right to head down the mountain. Straight would have taken us through the previously mentioned Daikiretto area. The weather was sunny and beautiful, but we didn’t see too many other hikers. Some had likely been put off by the recent weather. The trail is well defined, but steep with some loose slippery rocks in some places. Trekking poles were a necessity.

On the other side of Yari, the landscape seemed vastly different. We were surrounded by gorgeous snow-covered peaks. As we descended, we started seeing more lush green plant life. Fog rolled in, and we worried about the potential for rain, but thankfully it didn’t materialize.

Day 3 – Injuries and Lunch

Further down, we spotted some pretty wildflowers. We descended through an area with larger rocks, so we had to be careful. Suddenly, Kristin banged her knee, so I stopped to see how she was doing. She hit it pretty hard on a rock, and it was very painful. Thankfully she could still hike, but we needed to move at a slower pace.

I was hoping to get to Yarimikan, our onsen ryokan, by 17:00 (5:00 p.m.) for dinner. So we continued on, trying to hurry where we could. The area around us transitioned into a more lush, humid atmosphere that almost reminded me of a jungle. Pinked flags tied to trees sometimes marked our route.

We crossed a few streams, some of which swelled with rain water and were a bit tricky to cross. The area became more forested. Near an intersection, we passed a campground and arrived at Yaridaira Hut. It was a convenient spot to rest and grab a simple meal of udon and a C.C. Lemon. Kristin’s knee was still hurting, but manageable. Earlier we had also eaten our bento from Yarigatake Sanso, and while it was good, it wasn’t as good as the one from Yarisawa Lodge the previous day.

After finishing our meal, we continued. Concerned with time, I tried to hurry Kristin along. I moved faster to try to get her to move faster. But she could only go so fast with her knee. So we got angry with each other and barely talked for a couple hours. Eventually we apologized, and we both felt better. Part of hiking and marriage.

Day 3 – Streams and Dams

Eventually, we reached the stream that we had been warned about. It looked harder to cross than the picture we’d seen at Yarisanso. It took us 20 minutes to find a safe spot to cross without getting soaked or injured. As I landed on the other side, the rocks below me gave out. And…I banged up my leg. Poetic justice? But we got across eventually, and it turned out there were three separate crossings as the water flowed down the hill. As we were doing this, another hiker came along and hopped over everything in half the time it took us.

After the stream crossing, we made good time and reached a dry dam shortly after. Thinking the trail led right over it, we climbed down a ladder, crossed the dam, and climbed back up. We discovered that we went the wrong way though, as the trail actually goes below the dam. So we retraced our steps, curious why the dam was dry when everything else was overflowing.

On the other side of the dam, the trail became more of a fire road as we neared the end of our hike. A few streams flowed under the trail, and we passed several other dams. The terrain was gently descending at this point, so we made good time.

Passing by a lodge called Hotakadaira-goya, we immediately made a wrong turn. We continued along the “fire road,” but we should have taken a shorter trail that leads into the forest. We realized this further down the road, but we kept going since the road eventually meets back up with the other side of the trail. Eventually, we spotted the intersection with the trail. Since we missed the shortcut, we had to hike about an extra 1.0 km (0.6 mi).

Day 3 – Shinhotaka Onsen

A car passed by as we continued down the road, alongside the Gamada River. We also spotted several dams, and some buildings under construction. Soon, we stepped into the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. Thanks to Skype, we were able to call our ryokan, and they sent a shuttle. My limited Japanese and some English got the point across. Pro-tip: get a Japanese SIM card or pocket WiFi device so you can make calls.

The shuttle took us to a small, beautiful ryokan onsen called Yarimikan. We checked in, dropped our stuff in our room, and immediately went to take a bath. No one was in either the men’s or the women’s, so we had it all to ourselves. It’s a relaxing spot, with views of the Gamada River. Feeling refreshed, we headed to dinner. The meal was…disappointing. The service was slow, the food was nothing special, and they brought us one item at a time, so we couldn’t really enjoy our meal. Everything else about the onsen was amazing, but the food could’ve been better. Especially compared with other ryokans we visited.

After finishing our meal, we went to check out some of the private onsens. Our tired muscles enjoyed soaking and relaxing in the hot (almost too hot) water. Once finished, we returned to our room and passed out. The futon was the most comfortable one we had in Japan. We were glad, because we needed the rest after our 3-day adventure.

In the morning, we ate breakfast at Yarimikan (again, kinda disappointing) and checked out. The ryokan shuttle took us to the Shinhotaka Ropeway (HO65) bus stop. In a building next to the bus stop, we bought tickets from a machine for the Nohi Okuhida-Toyama bus route (note: this route seems to no longer exist, but there are other options). Prior reservations aren’t required. Our bus eventually arrived, a little late, and we were on our way to Toyama. From Toyoma, we headed into the northern part of Chubusangaku National Park, toward the Alpine Route.

Final Thoughts

Mount Yari was the highlight of our trip, with its stunning views, mountain huts, and solitude. Being surrounded by breathtaking mountains in Japan is unlike any experience we’ve had. It was also interesting culturally, since backpacking we’ve done in the US has been quite different. Our journey was nothing short of epic, and we hope to do more hiking in the region one day.

The route we planned worked well for us. The only issue was the descent on the last day. I wouldn’t recommend descending ~6000 feet in a day, but at the same time, I’m glad we didn’t take an extra day to hike down. Lastly, ending at Shinhotaka allowed us to relax in an onsen after the hike. If you want more adventure and don’t mind a potentially dangerous route, you might consider the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit.

Yarigatake is crazy busy in summer (mid-July through August), so I do recommend planning your trip during the off-season. We dealt with storms due to the rainy season though, so it’s a gamble. But we reaped the rewards with a mostly uncrowded route. So weigh what’s important to you. Fall might be another time to consider visiting.

If you’re considering this hike, there’s a list of helpful resources below. And if you have any questions or thoughts, feel free to leave a comment!

Backpacking Mount Yari (Yarigatake)

Date: Sunday, July 8, 2018 – Tuesday, July 10, 2018
Type: 2-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 32.6 km (20.3 mi) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +2060 meters (6759 feet), -2454 meters (8051 feet)

• Day 1 (Starting from Kappa Bridge):
  • Distance: 14.8 km (9.2 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 540 meters (1772 feet) gain, 225 meters (738 feet) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, including lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: Yarisawa Lodge
• Day 2 (Distance/Elevation includes climbing the peak of Mt. Yari):
  • Distance: 5.7 km (3.5 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1396 meters (4580 feet) gain, 136 meters (446 feet) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours to get to the lodge, including lunch and breaks. It took an additional 50 minutes to climb the peak of Mt. Yari.
  • Overnight: Yarigatake Sanso
• Day 3 (Ending at Shinhotaka Ropeway):
  • Distance: 12.1 km (7.6 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 124 meters (407 feet) gain, 2093 meters (6867 feet) loss
  • Time: 9 hours, including lunch and breaks
  • Overnight: Yarimikan in Shinhotaka Onsen

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections, markings painted on rocks: “O” (safe route), “X” (avoid)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, waterfalls, small ponds
Highlights: Views, wildlife, mountains, Japanese culture, lodges, wildflowers, snow, creeks, bridges, onsen
Directions to Kamikochi: Google Maps Directions
Notes: There are many route options; below is the one we did.

Trail Directions

• Day 1
  • 0.0 km / 0.0 mi – From Kappa Bridge in Kamikochi, head north on the gravel path along the river.
  • 0.2 km / 0.1 mi – Where the road and the path join briefly, bear right to stay on the path. A trail sign points toward “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 3.3 km. After about 5-10 minutes on the trail, you’ll enter Dakesawa Marsh via a boardwalk.
  • 0.7 km / 0.4 mi – Bear right at the intersection, following the sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 2.8 km. This section goes through the forest, crossing many bridges with views of the Azusa River on the right.
  • 2.4 km / 1.5 mi – Turn right when the trail intersects with the Chisan transport road. Follow the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 1.1 km.
  • 2.7 km / 1.7 mi – Turn right to get back on a walking trail, following the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.8 km. The trail runs parallel to the road along some boardwalk sections.
  • 3.5 km / 2.2 mi – Arrive at the Myojin Pond area. To see the shrine and pond, head left at the trail sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.1 km. Otherwise, continue straight toward Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.6 km / 2.2 mi – At the bridge, turn right to cross the Azusa River via Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.9 km / 2.4 mi – Arrive at Myojinkan Lodge, staying to the right of the building. At the T intersection with the main building, turn left. A trail sign points to 徳沢 (Tokusawa) in 3.4 miles.
  • 4.2 km / 2.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Tokugotoge Shimashimadani, toward Tokusawa-Yokoo.
  • 5.6 km / 3.5 mi – Pass by Furuike (Old Pond).
  • 6.8 km / 4.2 mi – Keep left at the intersection. However, if you want to take a break or explore, you could bear right toward Tokusawa Lodge. You’ll pass another intersection in a few minutes, which also leads to the lodge. Shortly after that, you’ll pass a bathroom, then Tokusawa Campground, and some lodges. Keep straight until you get to Michikusa Shokudo.
  • 7.1 km / 4.4 mi – Turn left at Michikusa Shokudo, another lodge.
  • 7.3 km / 4.5 mi – Keep right at the intersection, toward 横尾 (translated as Yokoo).
  • 8.0 km / 5.0 mi – Continue straight to “Yokoo-Karasawa-Yari” and pass a suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) on your left that crosses the Azusa River.
  • 10.7 km / 6.7 mi – Arrive at the Yokoo area, where there is a lodge, campground, and restrooms. Continue straight, with the lodge buildings on your right. A large bridge will be on your left. Follow the sign toward “槍ヶ岳”, or Yarigatake. After this point, the trail becomes more of a true hiking trail rather than a gravel path.
  • 14.8 km / 9.2 mi – Arrive at Yarisawa Lodge! Stay the night, and continue on the trail in the morning.
• Day 2
  • 16.7 km / 10.4 mi – Head left at the intersection with Minamata. Follow the sign toward Yarigatake.
  • 17.8 km / 11.1 mi – Bear right at the intersection (left leads to Mt. Minami and Tenguhara Junction).
  • 18.7 km / 11.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail that goes to Hutte Oyari. There’s a trail sign all in Japanese.
  • 19.2 km / 11.9 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail to Sessho Hyutte.
  • 19.3 km / 12.0 mi – Continue straight at another intersection that goes to Sessho Hyutte. Then, make the last push to Yarigatake Sanso.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Turn left at the intersection, and climb a short distance to arrive at Yarigatake Sanso! Check-in and relax.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Optionally, climb to the peak of Mt. Yari. From Yarigatake Sanso, head left out of the main doors toward the peak beside the lodge. At the base, a sign points to “The top of Mt. Yarigatake” in 0.2 mi. There are separate routes to ascend and descend. Follow the route to ascend with multiple chains and ladders.
  • 20.2 km / 12.6 mi – Climb the last ladder to the top, enjoy the view and shrine, then head back down along the descent route.
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Arrive back at Yarigatake Sanso.
• Day 3
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Exit Yarigatake Sanso, turn right, and pass the campground. You’ll pass a trail sign pointing to “Shinhotaka-onsen Spa” in 14.4 km, and “Mt. Hotaka-dake” in 9.0 km.
  • 20.7 km / 12.9 mi – Turn right at the intersection. A worn sign (in Japanese) is there, but it can be hard to read.
  • 22.0 km / 13.7 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.2 km / 15.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.3 km / 15.1 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past Yaridaira Goya mountain hut.
  • 25.7 km / 16.0 mi – Pass Takidani Junction, where there may be some stream crossings.
  • 27.9 km / 17.3 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past the dam. The trail becomes a gravel road.
  • 28.1 km / 17.5 mi – After the dam, continue straight past the intersection.
  • 30.5 km / 19.0 mi – Go past Hotakadaira-goya mountain hut. Locate the trail heading to the west, near the mountain hut. If you can’t find it, continue on the road (this is what we did) though it will take slightly longer.
  • 31.2 km / 19.4 mi – Turn left, back onto the road as the trail ends.
  • 32.6 km / 20.3 mi – Arrive in Shinhotaka Onsen and relax!

Maps

• Yarigatake to Shinhotaka Map (KNTP) – Map that we created, in English and Japanese. Thanks to HokkaidoWilds.com for information and directions. We did the best we could do to make this map, but please use at your own discretion.
• Mapple Map 40 (Amazon Japan) – Map is in Japanese, but has some English for specific features. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”
• Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) – Mapple App in Google Play Store to download and view digital maps (must purchase separately from paper maps).
• Northern Japan Alps Panorama-Ginza Hiking Map (Azumino City Tourist Association) – We got a paper version of this while in Japan, but this is a digital copy in English that you can view. Does not cover the area around Shinhotaka Onsen.

Links

• Kamikochi (上高地)
  • Kamikochi Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Kamikochi (English)
  • Chubu Sangaku National Park Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Chubu Sangaku National Park (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Chubu Sangaku (English)
  • Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (English) – Where we stayed in Kamikochi, highly recommended.
• Yarigatake and Mountain Huts
  • Yarigatake Page on Yarigatake Sanso Group Site (English) – Has general information about some huts and the mountain. Can get additional information from Japanese language pages if you use Google Translate. Created by the group that operates Yarisawa and Yarigatake Sanso lodges.
  • Yarisawa Lodge (Japanese) – Where we stayed our first night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yarigatake Sanso Lodge (Japanese) – We stayed here our second night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yokoo-Sanso Official Site (English) – We didn’t stay at this lodge, but it’s just below Yarisawa.
  • Yarisawa Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Yarigatake Sanso Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Japan-Guide: Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka Circuit (English)
  • Hiking in Japan: Mt. Yari (English)
  • Mt. Yari Peak Route Details (English)
• Shinhotaka Onsen
  • Yarimikan (English) – Onsen where we stayed after the hike
  • Japan-Guide Okuhida Access & Orientation (English)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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Moab Eats

One of our favorite Moab spots, 98 Center (named after its address), has a thoughtful and creative menu. They specialize in Asian (primarily Vietnamese) fusion in a trendy yet casual atmosphere. On our first visit, we ordered a pork banh mi and pho to share. The pho broth was delicious, with a light but well-developed flavor. Travis enjoyed it with a squeeze of fresh lime. We chatted with our waitress about how the restaurant caters to various diets (such as vegan, vegetarian, paleo, and keto) and how she’s influenced the menu.

We loved the cozy vibe, friendly and knowledgeable wait staff, and unique menu items so much we went back for a second visit. And did I mention the banh mi nachos?? So delicious, and they even put vegan cheese on mine.

The line was out the door when we arrived at Love Muffin Cafe. Once we made our way to the front, we both ordered the Bomber Burrito. I asked for no cheese (since I’m sensitive to dairy), and requested that it be marked since we got the same thing. They have a few vegan muffin options, including the Good Morning which has carrots and raisins, and Cranberry Bran, which I decided to try. Next, we found a spot at the “bar” and made ourselves at home. The food was tasty and the place has a funky vibe. The only thing I didn’t like was that my sandwich was not marked, as promised, and yes – they were mixed up.

During our visit in 2018, Travis waited in the line at the popular Quesadilla Mobilla while I went shopping around the corner. I had contemplated getting “The Vegan,” but didn’t for a few reasons. First, we had just finished breakfast. Second, their menu states that they don’t recommend that option. Maybe it’s a joke (I get it, it’s a quesadilla place), but that’s a terrible business move. Travis got the chicken one, and said it was amazing. It looked crispy and had lots of filling. If I could have eaten it, I would have!

Fast forward to 2019, and this time I wasn’t going to miss out. After waiting in another long line, the server said any quesadilla could be made with beans instead of cheese. I can’t even remember which I decided on, but guess what – it was delicious! And Travis’s, which had cheese of course, looked and smelled great too.

Milt’s is a super casual diner and a Moab institution. It was exactly the atmosphere we were looking for after a day of exploring Arches NP. Most of the seating is outdoors, but an employee announced that there were spots inside. It had gotten a bit chilly, so we headed in and sat at the bar. Travis ordered a bacon cheeseburger and tots. I ordered a buffalo burger and onion rings. It took about 35 mins, which they warned us about in advance. That also gave me time to enjoy the classic – even obscure – country tunes they were playing, which I happen to enjoy.

The food came out hot, and my onion rings were crispy and delicious. They had “fry sauce” on the counter (which the waiter said was a mix of ketchup, mayo, salt, and pepper) which was amazing. I snagged a few tots from Travis and they were nice and crispy on the outside too. Travis got an Oreo milkshake, which he said was good, but it wasn’t as thick as he would like, and chunks of cookie got stuck in the straw. But in my opinion, if you’re gonna get an Oreo milkshake, you can’t really complain about that. Travis said Snack Shack near Redwood NP had a better shake, but he still recommends Milt’s.

We didn’t eat at Sabaku Sushi on our first trip because we questioned how good a sushi place in the middle of Utah could possibly be. It turns out – very. They have plenty of spicy options. In fact, if you’re sensitive to spice, you may want to ask your server to ensure you know what you’re getting.

We shared the Fiery Furnace Roll, which is spicy tuna plus tempura bits on the outside, and spicy sauce on top (which I removed). We also got a Rainbow Bridge Roll which is a standard rainbow roll with fresh fish on top. Travis got tempura which he enjoyed, but some pieces (such as sweet potato) were not cooked through. The Sandstone Crunch Roll – shishito pepper, tempura, avocado, and salmon – was tasty, but one super spicy bite left Travis almost in tears. He got mochi ice cream afterward to calm his palate (so he claimed).

Moab Garage Co. is a surprising name for an ice cream shop – it’s named after the car repair shop that occupied the space from 1928 to 1975. Each serving of ice cream is made to order with liquid nitrogen, and either a dairy or coconut milk base. I got the blueberry basil, which ended up being my fave since it was refreshing and not overly sweet.

On our next visit, I got chocolate (with pretzels and almonds), which was tasty but a bit too sweet for me. Be mindful that some ingredients are not vegan (e.g. the cookie dough contains butter); fortunately the staff is very friendly and forthcoming with allergen info. On one of our visits, they warned me that a few chocolate chips with dairy had gotten in my coconut milk-based ice “cream,” and offered to remake it. I didn’t take them up on it, but I appreciated the offer.

The food at Moab Kitchen was vegan, homey, and unique. The setting was very hippy-esque and laid-back. It appeared that we were literally dining in the backyard / outdoor living room of the chef-owner. We shared a curry dish made with four different veggies including eggplant, jackfruit, and cabbage. While we aren’t vegan, the food was fun and flavorful. We also shared a delicious samosa. If we had stopped there, it would have been an awesome experience.

The cupcakes, which were also vegan, seemed store-bought and didn’t excite me. When I opened my chocolate cupcake, I was shocked to see that it had mold on top. I took it back to the chef; he swore, then gave me a new one. After a thorough check, I tasted it and decided it was only okay. But because of the experience with the first cupcake, I only had a small bite and wasn’t willing to eat the rest. In retrospect, I should have asked for my money back.

Travis loves craft beer, so he always ends up dragging me to at least one brewery. Moab Brewery was probably the weakest food we had in Moab. My salmon burger was dry and flavorless. The fries seemed okay at the start, but as they cooled off, they were blah. In a town full of fun and eclectic restaurants, it felt boring and forgettable. Maybe we ordered the wrong thing. Next time I suggested looking up which local restaurants have specific craft beers that Travis wants to try (there must be an app for that), so I can get good food too. We could always swing by the brewery to pick up a souvenir pint glass later. And on the plus side, Travis did enjoy the beer.

Moab has a fun food scene that’s one of a kind. There are a few places we still didn’t make it to. On our list for next time: Moab Spitfire Smokehouse (a BBQ food truck that closes early if they sell out), El Charro Loco, Miguel’s Baja Grill, and Arches Thai. At least that’s the plan, if we can drag ourselves away from the pho and quesadillas.

Moab Accommodations, etc.

Another thing I like about Moab: Main Street. I love places where the main street is actually called Main Street. This one is a great place to stretch your legs and take in the sights. It’s touristy though, with a seemingly endless line of cars entering Moab from the park. Of course, we’ve only visited during spring break, when Moab has its “Jeep Week,” which is exactly what it sounds like. But people here seemed pretty chill and laid-back.

Indigo Alley is a cute little shop with cool clothes, accessories, and personal care products. The shop owner was very personable and I chatted with her as I browsed the selection of sunglasses and leggings. She said she had been living in the area for almost 30 years.

One morning, we did laundry at Moab Laundry Express. It’s located in a little house just off main street. We walked in and immediately got sticker shock. But the machines looked nice…and we were already there, so we gave it a go. The machines washed and dried our clothes with no issues, so we can’t complain. They had everything you need, including machines that dispense laundry detergent and swap out your bills for change. We had gotten quarters at the hotel and brought a small packet of laundry detergent from home, but it would’ve worked out either way.

We stayed at Inca Inn in 2018 and had a good experience, so we booked another stay in 2019. Their motel-style rooms are reasonably priced and clean. The shower had weak water pressure, and colorful lights on the showerhead which I thought were pointless (though Travis liked them). It was quiet, with basic amenities such as an older style tv (which we didn’t watch anyway). There weren’t many electrical outlets, but the side table had a power strip which included three USB ports.

While there are plenty of hotel options in town, we appreciated Inca Inn’s friendly staff, clean rooms, comfy bed (more so than most we’ve stayed at), and proximity to Arches NP. A basic breakfast (when we visited they had things like oatmeal packets, hard boiled eggs, cereal, toast, jam, peanut butter, juice, milk, water, and all-day coffee) is included. Think “grab and go” for your adventure in the park. One morning, they only had original unflavored oatmeal, so I asked the hostess and she brought me some flavored options which I really appreciated (it’s the little things, right?). Also, the hot water in their lobby is always HOT, which is more than I can say about other places.

We had a blast in Moab on both our visits, and we can’t wait to go back. It’s a fun place to explore, and it boasts a variety of quirky and delicious restaurants. Best of all, it’s right down the road from Arches National Park.

Links

• Restaurants
  • 98 Center | 98 East Center St. Moab, UT 84532
  • Love Muffin Cafe | 139 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Quesadilla Mobilla | 95 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Milt’s Stop & Eat | 356 S Mill Creek Dr, Moab, UT 84532
  • Sabaku Sushi | 90 E Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Garage Co. | 78 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Kitchen | 180 W Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Brewery | 686 S Main St, Moab, UT 84532
• Shops
  • Indigo Alley | 77 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Laundry Express LLC | 16 W 100 N, Moab, UT 84532
• Accommodations
  • Inca Inn | 570 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532

Interactive Map

The post Moab Restaurants and Accommodations appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Overview

A little known fact: Crater Lake is the fifth oldest national park in the United States. It was created in 1902 after a decades-long effort by William Gladstone Steel, who first visited in 1885. Fifteen years prior, he had read about the lake in a newspaper article – that his lunch was wrapped in. Steel was the driving force behind creating the park, and the main visitor center is named after him.

Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States, and the ninth deepest in the world. It was formed after a volcano, Mount Mazama, erupted in 5700 BC. The eruption caused the volcano to collapse, forming a large caldera. Over time, the caldera filled with water from snowmelt, creating the lake.

Assumedly, most people visit the park for its eponymous lake. That’s why we came – but we left with a greater understanding of the wider ecosystem. The park is not just a lake, but also the surrounding rivers, mountains, and volcanic features. We focused on hiking (and backpacking – though that didn’t pan out due to weather), but fishing, biking, and skiing are also popular.

Guide to Best Activities in Crater Lake National Park

1. Crater Lake Boat Tour – Taking a tour of Crater Lake was one of the highlights of our trip. Experiencing the geological features and vibrant blue color of the water up close was one of the most memorable parts of our trip.

   

2. Mount Scott – A hike to the highest point in the park, with panoramic views of Crater Lake. Our visit happened to coincide with a butterfly migration that only occurs every 5-6 years, which was both surprising and stunning.

   

3. Boundary Springs – An off the beaten path type of hike. This trail features no views of Crater Lake, but the forest, streams, and wildflowers make up for it. We saw where the Rogue River begins, as it emanates from the Earth.

   

4. Crater Lake Lodge – A beautiful hotel complete with restaurant, adjacent to Crater Lake. It’s the only lodging (other than campgrounds) in the park. The view, friendly staff, and easy access to hiking trails make this a special place to stay, or just visit as a day trip.

   

5. Garfield Peak – This trail provides some of the best views of Crater Lake. It was one of our favorite hikes in the park, even though we didn’t reach the top due to snow.

   

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Wizard Island – We imagine this is an epic place to go hiking. We tried our best to get to the island, but shuttles weren’t currently running due to maintenance issues. This is at the top of our list next time we visit.

  

  Crater Peak & Union Peak – Two hikes we wanted to do, but didn’t have time for. Both are located on the south side of the lake and are a bit longer than other dayhikes in the park.

  

  Backcountry Camping – Weather prevented us from doing a backpacking trip this time, but it’s on the list for our next visit. We had planned to do Bald Crater Loop, but a trip up to Union Peak would also make for a nice overnight.

  

Crater Lake Mini Adventures Guide

On our trip to Crater Lake National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Bert Creek & Sphagnum Bog – This particular adventure was all Travis’s idea. We drove into Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest, to Bert Creek Trail. We hiked along the trail into the northwest corner of Crater Lake National Park until we intersected with Bald Crater Loop Trail. After searching for the bog, it turned out you have to bushwhack to find it – and the amount of mosquitoes (even with repellent) dissuaded us enough to head back. Maybe some day we’ll try again (if Travis can convince Kristin).

  

• Lady of the Woods Trail – This short trail goes around Steel Visitor Center, and we didn’t like it. Its claim to fame is a stone sculpture of a woman, made in 1917 by Earl Russell Bush. There are nearby streams, but most of all there are tons of mosquitoes. The trail weaves around park buildings. It doesn’t offer much, though there is a trail guide you can pick up that corresponds to numbered posts along the way.

  

• Phantom Ship – An overlook at the intersection of Pinnacles Road and East Rim Drive offers a clear view of this rocky island in Crater Lake. If you use your imagination, it resembles a sailing ship. The overlook is easily accessible, but you can skip this if you go on a boat tour, since that gives you a closer view.

  

• Sinnot Memorial Overlook – Near Rim Village, on the south side of Crater Lake, is the Sinnot Memorial Observation Station. Built into the cliffside below Crater Lake’s rim, it offers gorgeous views and a small museum to explore. It’s located down a long flight of stairs, about 0.8 miles round trip. If you’re short on time, this is a good place to learn about the park.

  

• Whitewater Rafting the North Umpqua River – This one isn’t in Crater Lake National Park, but we’re mentioning it anyway. We booked a whitewater rafting trip along the North Umpqua River through Ouzel Outfitters. We drove about an hour and a half northwest of the park to the put-in. The trip went through numerous class II and III rapids, with one class IV near the end. Our guides were great, and we had a blast.

  

Weather

Crater Lake is filled only by snowmelt and rainfall, so naturally a ton of snow falls in the winter. The park is open through the winter, but we prefer warmer weather. July and August are the warmest months, and have the lowest chance of rainfall (though it rained during our trip in July). September might be ideal; it’s still warm-ish and usually too early for snow, so every trail will likely be open. October is a possibility too, but snow could start falling by then.

Visitation Statistics

Not surprisingly, visitation has increased at Crater Lake in the past decade. Nor is it surprising that July and August are the most popular months. If you can swing it, we suggest visiting in September to avoid crowds.

Other Crater Lake NP Tips

• Our plans changed constantly during our visit, so we had to be flexible, due to weather, remaining snow, and concessionaire issues.
• Along the same lines, be aware that some trails don’t become accessible until late July or mid-August due to snow.
• Book the lodge and any boat tours/shuttles as early as you can (and keep your fingers crossed).
• Check out Cleetwood Cove Trail, even if you can’t snag boat tour tickets. You’ll still have a chance to swim in the lake, and even jump in if you’re feeling brave.
• Avoid Annie Creek Restaurant (terrible food) and Rim Village Cafe (overpriced), unless desperate.
• If you have the flexibility, you might check out Lost Creek Campground instead of Mazama Campground. It’s first-come, first-served, and significantly smaller than Mazama Campground. While we didn’t spend the night there, it seemed quiet.
• If your tire springs a leak, like ours did, you can refill it at the gas station in Mazama Campground. If that air filler breaks, like it did when we were there, the next closest station is in Diamond Lake. And if that breaks, well, you might be out of luck.

Our Itinerary

Our trip didn’t go as planned due to weather and the lake tours not running. So we tried to be flexible so we could see as much of the park as possible. It happens sometimes, so be prepared.

Original Itinerary

Day	Plan	Lodging
1	Arrive and explore	Mazama Campground
2	Cleetwood Cove Trail, Wizard Island and Boat Tour	Mazama Campground
3	Mount Scott Trail, Plaikni Falls Trail, Pinnacles Trail	Mazama Campground
4	Garfield Peak, Sinnot Memorial Overlook	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
5	North Umpqua Whitewater Rafting	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
6	Bald Crater Loop Backpacking	Backcountry Camping
7	Bald Crater Loop Backpacking	Mazama Campground
8	Boundary Springs Trail or Crater Lake Rim Trail

Actual Itinerary

Day	Plan	Lodging
1	Arrive and explore	Mazama Campground
2	Visitor Center, Lady of the Woods Trail	Mazama Campground
3	Boundary Springs Trail	Diamond Lake Motel
4	Bert Creek Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
5	North Umpqua Whitewater Rafting	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
6	Mount Scott Trail, Plaikni Falls Trail, Pinnacles Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Parkside Room
7	Cleetwood Cove Trail, Boat Tour, Watchman Peak Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Parkside Room
8	Garfield Peak Trail

Our Experiences

• Mazama Campground
• Boundary Springs Trail
• Mount Scott Trail
• Pinnacles & Plaikni Falls Trails
• Cleetwood Cove & Boat Tour
• Watchman Peak Trail
• Garfield Peak Trail
• Restaurants and Accommodations

Crater Lake Map Guide

Paper Maps

• Crater Lake National Park Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)

The post Best Hikes, Itinerary and Planning Guide appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Note: This trip was back in 2017 when the park’s concessionaire was Xanterra. It’s now Aramark, so options inside the park may have changed.

There’s only one hotel in the park: Crater Lake Lodge. We had booked two nights, several months in advance, and were excited to stay there. But first, we’d be staying at Mazama campground. After setting up our campsite, we drove up to the lodge for a gorgeous view of the lake.

After staying two miserable nights in the campground, and cancelling our backpacking trip due to thunderstorms, we tried to get a room at the lodge. They were booked that night, but we were able to reserve a room for the following two nights.

Accommodations Outside the Park

We decided to call Diamond Lake Resort, located 45 minutes north of the park, in the Umpqua National Forest. Thankfully, we were able to reserve a room for that night. On the way, we hiked Boundary Springs Trail, which we highly recommend.

When you hear the name Diamond Lake, you expect something spectacular. However, it turned out to be pretty low-key. Its architecture is quaint and cottagey, and guest rooms are small, comfortable, and unassuming. Largely due to its location, it’s a budget-friendly alternative to Crater Lake Lodge. And we were glad they had availability, since we had no other good options.

Crater Lake Lodge

The following day, we checked in to Crater Lake Lodge. The guestrooms we stayed in were cozy, with basic amenities. There is no A/C, so we relied on fans to stay cool. The first room we stayed in had a view of Crater Lake, which added to the experience. After two nights, we switched to a room with a view of mountains on the opposite side. It was located on the top floor, in the eaves, so we were uncomfortably hot at night.

It would have been ideal to stay in one room for the entire visit, but at least they had some availability when our plans fell through. Staff at the lodge were friendly and helpful. They moved our luggage between rooms, and listened to our incessant questions about the status of our Crater Lake Boat Tour.

Overall we enjoyed the atmosphere at the lodge. We sat outside on the deck overlooking Crater Lake. In the evenings, we enjoyed relaxing in the Great Hall, particularly when the fireplace was lit. The lodge was crowded during the day, but cleared out in the evenings when only overnight guests remained.

Restaurants in the Park

Let’s start with the most memorable – the Dining Room at Crater Lake Lodge. The park website recommends making advance reservations. So we made ours several months ahead of time. Just in case. Since we were staying at the lodge sooner than anticipated, we chatted with the host and found that we could make a dinner reservation 24 hours in advance.

At dinnertime, we were seated by a window with a view of Crater Lake. After asking for a recommendation because of my dairy allergy, I ordered the Citrus Herb Chicken with veggies and wild rice. The waitress was helpful and accommodating. My meal was nicely seasoned and felt healthy, but it wasn’t amazing. Travis got Pacific Crest Trail pasta, with lemon cream sauce and salmon, which he really enjoyed. He also took advantage of the lodge’s small rotating list of craft beers on tap.

The following day, we were out hiking Mount Scott, Plaikni Falls, and the Pinnacles, so we hadn’t made a dinner reservation. Thankfully, guests can grab salad, soup, and appetizers on the balcony overlooking Crater Lake, and in the Great Hall (just outside the lodge’s main dining room). We chose to eat inside.

I asked for a wedge salad with salmon, which came with a delicious, creamy dressing. We both ordered soup of the day. Today it was wild rice with carrots, celery, mushrooms, and chicken broth. It was savory and hearty with a well-developed flavor. It looked like nothing, but it was some of the best soup I’ve ever had.

Travis ordered the BLT flatbread, which came topped with a healthy portion of greens. It was like a BLT and a pizza had a baby. He also ordered a Rogue Pendleton Pale Ale, which arrived in a Crater Lake National Park themed can. All the food and drinks we had were delicious. In fact, I preferred the food in the Great Hall.

The Great Hall has a more casual vibe compared to the dining room. Someone requested that the gas fireplace be turned on; it didn’t put out much heat, but added to the room’s ambiance. We enjoyed a cozy dinner on the couch.

The lodge restaurant also offers breakfast, so we decided to try it one morning. I had to order a la carte due to my dietary restriction, but there were many options and the wait staff was helpful once again. All in all, we greatly enjoyed the food at Crater Lake Lodge and highly recommend it.

Now let’s chat about some restaurants in the park that were memorable for a different reason. Crater Lake’s other two eateries were also operated by then concessionaire, Xanterra. The first is Annie Creek Restaurant, near Mazama Campground. It’s a casual sit down restaurant that we visited on our first night in the park.

There were many open tables, but we waited for about half an hour to be seated. I ordered a Monster Burger, without cheese, and a gluten free bun (since the regular bun contained milk). Travis ordered a pulled pork sandwich with pickles and red onion.

After another long wait, the waitress came by to apologize for the delay. She pointed to a man, and said that my dairy-free burger had mistakenly been served to him. The man eyed his food strangely, as he clearly hadn’t been told about the mix-up. The waitress offered me a complimentary trip to the salad bar, which I greatly appreciated.

After grabbing a bowl of soup, a burger was waiting for me at the table. But it was covered in mushrooms, and not what I had ordered. At this point, I just ate it, but requested some avocado, the only topping I could remember that I should have gotten. The burger was just okay, and the bun fell apart since it was a low-quality gluten free bun (and we’ve had tasty gluten free bread), but at least I didn’t get charged for the avocado or salad bar. Travis’s pulled pork sandwich was decent.

The other restaurant in the park is Rim Village Café. This place is more of a grab-n-go cafeteria, with food items sitting in fridges and under heat lamps. It’s nothing special, and expensive for what you get. We ended up paying $31 for two hot dogs, a cookie, yogurt, soda, and a fruit cup. Needless to say, we only went there once during our visit.

Restaurants Outside the Park

Establishments outside the park are spread out, so it takes time to get to them. Since we stayed one night at Diamond Lake Resort, we dined at the restaurant there. We ordered burgers; the food took forever to get to us, and was cold and tasteless. We did have a decent view of the lake to take our minds off the food, though.

We visited Beckie’s Cafe twice, and enjoyed quality food and service both times. Located on the west side of Crater Lake, Beckie’s has been around since 1926 and is known for its pie. We got a cheesesteak and a club sandwich, each with a side salad. I got an Angry Orchard cider (to make up for the salad), pretty standard but no complaints from me! They had a few local craft beers on draft, too.

The second time we visited, we had the same waitress who recognized us, and was friendly and helpful given my dairy allergy. She offered us an awkward high table next to the bar, which we happily accepted in lieu of waiting. This time we each got a Hunter Burger (no cheese on mine) with a fried egg and chipotle mayo with fries. The bun fell apart a bit, but it was still delicious.

A visit to Beckie’s wouldn’t be complete without trying the pie. Except I couldn’t eat it since it had dairy. Travis tried the peach and chocolate pie (on different visits) and they were both tasty. His favorite – chocolate – was rich, smooth, and silky with a light and fluffy whipped cream.

Overall, we were most impressed with Beckie’s Cafe and Crater Lake Lodge’s restaurant and Great Hall. Skip everything else and bring some canned tuna.

Places

• Crater Lake Lodge | 570 Rim Village Dr, Oregon 97604
  • Dining Room
• Diamond Lake Resort | 350 Resort Dr, Diamond Lake, OR 97731
• Annie Creek Restaurant | 569 Mazama Village, Crater Lake Hwy, OR 97604
• Rim Village Cafe and Gift Shop | 42.9110909, -122.1490059
• Beckie’s Cafe | 56484 OR-62, Prospect, OR 97536

Interactive Map

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On our final day in Crater Lake National Park, we checked out of Crater Lake Lodge, and simply walked to our trail. Garfield Peak Trail begins just off of Rim Village Drive adjacent to the lodge, though we wouldn’t reach the trailhead sign for 0.2 miles. With easy access from the lake’s south rim, the trail is convenient and popular.

Garfield Peak was named after James Rudolph Garfield, who was Secretary of the Interior when the park was established in 1902. Fun historical fact: this James Garfield was the son of James A. Garfield, the 20th U.S. president.

The 3.4 mile trail to Garfield Peak is often closed (or partially closed) due to snow, even late in the season. It was July 31, and we would be able to hike 1.4 miles of the 1.7 miles (one way), so the final 0.3 miles to the peak was still off-limits. I’m glad that didn’t deter us, as there is so much to see on this trail.

Garfield Peak Trail

The best feature of Garfield Peak Trail is its location next to Crater Lake. Other trails, like Watchman Peak, are adjacent to the lake – but Garfield Peak Trail is designed to allow better and more consistent views of the lake than any other trail (barring Cleetwood Cove, perhaps). It also provides views of geological features, wildflowers, the lodge, and more.

Garfield Peak Trail is a straight shot up to the top – no intersections. After a short walk, we passed the trail sign, then hiked through some pine trees before reaching an open area. The trail ascended until we came to a bench with a great view of Crater Lake. Some ground squirrels ran around as we took a break and enjoyed the view.

The trail weaved back and forth through switchbacks as we continued. Though the trail route and rock formations blocked our view of Crater Lake in some spots, it always seemed to be waiting for us a few moments later. Wildflowers like Indian paintbrush and fireweed bloomed along the trail.

On our right, we had scenic views of the mountains and Crater Lake Lodge (which we highly recommend, by the way). The dusty trail passed some rock formations, and on the other side we got another view of Crater Lake.

Looking out, we spotted a small white dot on the lake – a tour boat! It reminded us of our adventure the previous day, when we took a boat tour of Crater Lake. We also caught a glimpse of Union Peak, another hike in the park we wished we had time for.

Snow Time

Looking out over the lake, we saw a large snowfield below the rim. As the snow melts, it forms waterfalls that fill the lake. But wait – there’s more! Back on the trail, we approached another snowfield that we’d have to cross. The park had posted signs to direct hikers through the snow.

By this time, other hikers had worn a trail through the snow that was easy enough to follow, even without signs. It was a bit slippery, and we used our trekking poles for balance as we hiked through this section.

Finally across the snowfield, we stepped back onto soil. Crater Lake came into view again, as did Phantom Ship and Mount Scott. Further down the trail, we were stopped by snow again. This time, there was no going through or around it. A sign announced that the trail was closed beyond that point. In a week or two, the trail would probably be open to the summit, but this was the end for us.

It was disappointing to stop short of the summit, but Garfield Peak is still one of my favorite trails in the park. We were lucky to hike it at all, since it had been closed when we arrived a week prior. Garfield Peak Trail is unique due to its panoramic views of Crater Lake and various landmarks along the way. We really enjoyed this trail, and it solidified many of the memories we had made on our trip to Crater Lake.

Garfield Peak Trail

Dates: Monday, July 31, 2017
Type: Out and back dayhike
Total Distance: 3.4 miles (5.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1170 feet (357 m)
Time: 2.5 hours round trip for us, not including the last 0.6 miles (round-trip), which was closed due to snow.
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Moderate
Water: Views of Crater Lake, and snow if you like
Highlights: Views, Wildflowers, Rock Formations
Directions to Crater Lake Lodge Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Park near the lodge, then follow the paved path east along the rim of Crater Lake.
• 0.2 – The trail transitions to a dirt path at a trail sign for Garfield Peak. While the sign says 3.4 miles round-trip, that distance begins at the lodge.
• 1.7 – You’ve arrived at the top of Garfield Peak (snow permitting)! Enjoy, then turn around and go back the way you came.
• 3.4 – Back at Crater Lake Lodge

Places

• Garfield Peak Trailhead | 42.909489, -122.1413882

Maps

• Garfield Peak Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Garfield Peak (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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