We planned to hike Grinnell Glacier Trail while staying at Many Glacier Hotel in Glacier National Park. The trail provides up-close views of three lakes and three glaciers. While you can hike the entire way from Many Glacier Hotel (11.8 mi) or the nearby trailhead (10.2 miles), another option is to take a boat from the foot of Swiftcurrent Lake, just outside the hotel. We chose the latter option, which shortens the hike to 6.9 miles, while providing another unique view of the area.

Not wanting to leave anything to chance, we booked our boat tickets about four months in advance. There are two morning boats to choose from. The 8:30 option was already full, so we opted for the 9 a.m. There are later boats, but we wanted plenty of time to hike. If you miss the return boat, you can always walk back to Many Glacier Hotel. I can’t overstate the importance of planning ahead when visiting a popular park like Glacier.

The trail and surrounding area are named for American naturalist and writer George Bird Grinnell (1849 – 1938). In 1885, he visited the area, including the glacier that now bears his name. He was also influential in the establishment of Glacier as a national park in 1910. Mount Grinnell, Grinnell Lake, and Upper Grinnell Lake are also named for him.

The day before our hike, we checked out of Fish Creek Campground in West Glacier. We had decided to take the day to whitewater raft along the Middle Fork Flathead River. It was a blast, and Travis only fell in once. Our raftmates were a family of three from Blacksburg, VA. Travis went to Virginia Tech, so we had some good conversation. They mentioned wanting to hike Grinnell Glacier Trail the next day as well, but they didn’t have boat tickets. So we parted ways, wondering if we’d see them on the trail.

Boat Tour Across Swiftcurrent and Josephine Lakes

After our rafting trip, we drove Going to the Sun Road and checked into Many Glacier Hotel. The next morning, we headed to the dock behind the hotel around 8:30 a.m. to get our tickets. There were people waiting for the boat, and others trying to buy last-minute tickets. About 10 minutes before our tour, they let us board the boat, Chief Two Guns. There were some no-shows, so a few people who were waiting got on as well. In all, there were 50 people including the captain onboard.

Two separate boat rides are included, first across Swiftcurrent Lake, and then across Lake Josephine. A short 0.2 mile hike over a hill connects the two. For the Swiftcurrent portion, our captain was Linnea, the daughter of two Glacier park rangers. She gave a talk about the history of the lodge, geology, and wildlife in the surrounding area, and even pointed out a beaver lodge. She was very knowledgeable, and it was nice to sit back, relax, and learn. During the tour, a few passengers at a time could go out on the bow of the boat to check out the view.

Along the way, the mountain and lake views are stunning. I could just make out Salamander Glacier from the boat. I spotted what I thought was a waterfall, and debated with the other passengers whether it was snow or in fact a waterfall (surprisingly, I was right). Before we knew it, we had docked at the opposite end of the lake.

After our quick five minute hike, we found ourselves on the shore of Lake Josephine. Our next boat, Morning Eagle, was waiting. It was a quick trip across the lake. Along the way we saw hikers on the trail adjacent to the lake, which reminded us that there are options if you aren’t able to get boat tickets. At the final dock near the head of Lake Josephine, we passed a shelter area where passengers can wait for the boat. There’s a pit toilet nearby too, but it was in poor shape (hopefully it’s been repaired by now).

Josephine Walk

It was time to officially start our hike. Our route first skirted the head of Lake Josephine. We passed an intersection with a trail that goes directly to Grinnell Lake. However, we took the more leisurely route along a narrow boardwalk in a boggy area. Travis spotted a frog and some orchids along this section. We then crossed a bridge over Cataract Creek, which flows into Lake Josephine.

The boardwalk continues after the bridge, and we came to an intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail. We turned left, away from the lake, and shortly came to another intersection with Grinnell Glacier Trail. This is where the route joins the main trail.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Here, the trail rapidly ascends up switchbacks. The tree cover becomes less dense as the elevation increases. This day would turn out to be the hottest that we experienced in the park, in the low 90s Fahrenheit. The heat, plus the lack of shade, made this one of the hardest hikes we did in Glacier.

We took a quick break in the shade of a pine tree, and the fresh fragrance lingered in the air. I had no idea it smelled so good – sweet and floral, nothing like artificial pine scent. There were panoramic views of Lake Josephine, and Grinnell Lake became visible as we continued on. Looking behind us, we could see Swiftcurrent Lake. We imagined how glaciers carved out the valleys over thousands of years. The views are unreal, and totally worth it even if you don’t hike all the way to Grinnell Glacier.

The views get even better as we ascended. Waterfalls and wildflowers were everywhere. Perhaps the most interesting plant we saw was bear grass, a distinctive puffy white wildflower. We crossed a few streams flowing across the trail. I was wearing a buff around my neck to prevent sunburn, so I dipped it in a stream and then draped it back around my neck to cool off. Highly recommend.

Not surprisingly, the trail was crowded. The vast majority of hikers greeted us, and were considerate, particularly where the trail was narrow. Conversely, there were a couple people who just plowed ahead.

Suddenly, we spotted some familiar faces: our friends from whitewater rafting the previous day! They were heading down while we were heading up. We were impressed since they had hiked the whole way, and clearly made it to Grinnell Glacier well before us. We said hi, and would have chatted further, but the trail was too narrow and crowded to hold an extended conversation.

As we hiked, snowmelt created many small waterfalls along the trail. One waterfall flowed directly onto the trail, so we were pretty much guaranteed to get wet. There was kind of a way to go around it, but most people didn’t bother, since it was a hot and sunny day. We stowed our camera gear, then we went for it. The water was very refreshing, but if it had been a cool or windy day, we would have tried to go around.

At this point, we were almost directly above Grinnell Lake, which was a gorgeous shade of aquamarine. A few patches of snow came into view as we gained elevation, and we spotted some glacial lilies nearby. The panoramic views along this trail showcase the mountains, lakes, glaciers, trees, and striking topography of the area.

After about 2.7 miles on Grinnell Glacier Trail, we arrived at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area, which boasts benches, trees (yay shade), and two pit toilets. It’s the main stop before the climb to Upper Grinnell Lake and the glaciers, so it was unsurprisingly crowded. Some people were eating lunch here. We had planned to eat lunch by one of the glaciers, so we took a short break before continuing on.

Grinnell Glacier

From the picnic area, we quickly made it 0.4 miles to the top. We stood above Upper Grinnell Lake, enjoying the view. Looking up, we saw Salamander Glacier. To our left was Grinnell Glacier, or rather, what remained of it. Salamander used to be part of Grinnell Glacier, but they separated due to melting sometime before 1929. Between 1966 and 2015, Grinnell Glacier lost almost 45% of its area, which contributed to forming Upper Grinnell Lake. Salamander has lost about 23% in the same period. Currently, there are only 26 active glaciers left in the park (to be considered active, a glacier must to be larger than 25 acres).

We headed closer to the lake, which is a brilliant blue color due to glacial flour. Waterfalls ran down the side of the mountains into the lake, and large ice chunks floated on the water. To the south is Mount Gould, and to the north is Mount Grinnell. The Highline Trail runs on the other side of a rock feature called the Garden Wall. From the Highline Trail, hikers can take Garden Wall Trail to an overlook above Grinnell Glacier. Gem Glacier, the smallest named glacier in the park, is situated below Mount Gould and above Grinnell Glacier. In fact, it’s so small now at around 5 acres, that it’s no longer considered an active glacier.

It was pleasantly cool due to the lake and glaciers, so we took the opportunity to relax and eat lunch with a view. While we had reached the end of the official trail, there are plenty of social trails and viewing areas for a closer look. Visitors should avoid walking on Grinnell Glacier itself (or any glacier), as there are hidden crevices that you can fall into.

After soaking up views of the lake and glaciers, we started our journey back down. The three lakes we passed earlier – Grinnell, Josephine, and Swiftcurrent – aligned in the valley below as we descended. The view of these three lakes surrounded by mountains is perhaps one of Glacier’s most iconic.

On the way down, we talked to a hiker who mentioned a bear sighting on the trail ahead. Another hiker later on mentioned that a park ranger had scared it away, so we didn’t end up seeing it. It’s extremely helpful to share any relevant safety information with other hikers, and we found ourselves doing the same on other trails throughout our trip.

We completed our hike relatively quickly, since we planned to return before the last boat departed at 5:15 pm. We arrived at the dock around 4:50 pm, where there were a number of people waiting and enjoying the sun and scenery. Round-trip ticket holders (like us) have priority, though you can also get a one-way ticket. If the boat couldn’t accommodate everyone, it would return as necessary.

The boat pulled up at 5:15 pm. It was completely full, and only about 20 passengers got off. We were able to board, but some people had to wait for the boat to return. Now that I think about it, a boat ride to the head of Lake Josephine, followed by a 3.2 mile hike back to Many Glacier Hotel, would make for a nice afternoon excursion.

We arrived back at the hotel ravenous and tired, but happy. We immediately hopped in the car and drove about 5 minutes to Nell’s at Swiftcurrent to grab some dinner. Despite the crowds, the hike to Grinnell Glacier was a great opportunity to see and learn a lot. It’s arguably the easiest glacier to access in the park, and the boat ride adds another element of interest. Even if you’re only in the park for a short time, I highly recommend this dayhike.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Date: Tuesday, July 23, 2019
Type: Dayhike Out and Back
Total Distance: 6.9 miles (11.2 km) from the boat dock. 10.2 miles (16.4 km) from trailhead.
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1824 feet (556 m) from Boat Dock. 1969 feet (600 meters) from trailhead.
Time: 9 hours total, including boat and hiking. Active hiking time was 7 hours. The boat ride from Many Glacier to Lake Josephine (including both legs plus the short hike) is about an hour, each way.
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: High
Water: Lakes, streams, and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, glaciers, water features, boardwalk, marsh, wildflowers, lakes
Directions to Trailhead: Grinnell Glacier Trailhead
Notes: We recommend taking the boat if you can, but the longer hike from Grinnell Glacier Trailhead is also a good option

Trail Directions – From Lake Josephine Boat Dock

• 0.0 mi – From the boat dock on Lake Josephine, walk 150 feet on Josephine Walk Trail. Keep right to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Horse Trail. After another 150 feet, continue straight to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Foot Trail. The trail will transition to a boardwalk temporarily. Follow signs for Grinnell Glacier.
• 0.2 mi – Cross over Cataract Creek on a bridge that flows into Lake Josephine
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail, keep left on Josephine Walk Trail
• 0.4 mi – Turn left onto Grinnell Glacier Trail
• 3.1 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 3.5 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier. When done exploring, head back down the way you came.
• 3.8 mi – Arrive back at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 6.5 mi – Turn right onto Josephine Walk Trail
• 6.6 mi – At the intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail, keep right to stay on Josephine Walk Trail
• 6.7 mi – Cross the bridge over Cataract Creek
• 6.9 mi – At the intersection with Grinnell Lake Foot Trail, continue straight to stay on Josephine Walk Trail. After 150 feet, turn left to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Horse Trail. Go another 150 feet to reach Lake Josephine Dock, where you can wait for the boat.

Trail Directions – From Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

• 0.0 mi – From the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead, head south on Swiftcurrent Lake Trail
• 0.8 mi – Pass the dock at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake, then turn left onto North Shore Josephine Lake Trail
• 1.7 mi – At the fork, keep right to go onto Grinnell Glacier Trail
• 2.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Josephine Walk Trail
• 4.8 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 5.1 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier. When done exploring, head back down the way you came.
• 5.4 mi – Arrive back at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 8.2 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Josephine Walk Trail
• 8.5 mi – Continue straight onto North Shore Josephine Walk Trail
• 9.4 mi – Turn left onto Swiftcurrent Lake Trail. Pass the dock at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake.
• 10.2 mi – Back at the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

Maps

• Grinnell Glacier Trail Map (KTNP)
• Many Glacier Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Grinnell Glacier Trailhead (NPS)
• Grinnell Glacier Historical Photos (NPS)
• USGS Glacier Status

Elevation Graph – From Lake Josephine Boat Dock

Elevation Graph – From Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

Interactive Map

The post Grinnell Glacier Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We were excited for our first hike in Glacier National Park. Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Trail promised a forested boardwalk trail, a stunning gorge, and a glacial lake nestled at the foot of majestic mountains. We hoped it would give us a taste of what Glacier National Park is all about.

To get to Avalanche Lake Trail, you first have to hike Trail of the Cedars, a path through cedar, hemlock, and the cottonwood trees which is primarily on a boardwalk. Combining the two trails forms a 5.9 mile reverse lollipop loop. This sylvan path takes you to Avalanche Gorge, where Avalanche Creek flows through a twisted narrow canyon. Avalanche Lake, a picturesque body of water with towering mountains beyond, is located at the terminus (ish) of the trail. The lake was named in 1895 because a group exploring the area saw and heard many avalanches during their stay.

Hiking is a popular activity in Glacier National Park, so you have to get to the trailhead early to secure a parking spot. Trail of the Cedars is only about a 30 minute drive from Fish Creek Campground, where we were staying, so it seemed like a good bet. Thankfully, there were still spaces left when we arrived in the parking lot around 8:30 a.m. However, visitation has increased in recent years, so you have to arrive even earlier to ensure you get a spot (potentially as early as 6:30 a.m.). A timed-entry system has also been implemented, but the park remains crowded.

We took about 15 minutes to put on sunscreen and get our gear ready. By the time we got started, there were no visible parking spaces left. Coming from the west, there are three parking lots in order: Avalanche Lake Picnic Area (on left), Avalanche Campground (a small lot on the right), and Trail of the Cedars Parking (on the right after crossing Avalanche Creek). Some visitors only do Trail of the Cedars, which is rather short, so you can circle the lot until a space opens up. The park shuttle is another great option, and there is a transfer stop next to the trailhead.

Trail of the Cedars

We walked across Going to the Sun Road, then crossed Avalanche Creek. Trail of the Cedars is a loop – one side starts north of Avalanche Creek, the other to the south. We decided on a whim to start from the north and go clockwise, but either would work. Avalanche Lake Trail intersects Trail of the Cedars around the halfway point.

We started our hike on a boardwalk on Trail of the Cedars, and a good portion of the loop is a boardwalk. Travis loves boardwalks, so he was really in his element. It feels like you’re traveling through a swamp or bog, someplace you wouldn’t normally be able to walk without damaging the terrain or flora.

The trail is wheelchair accessible, easy terrain with a gentle slope up toward the intersection with Avalanche Lake Trail. Trail of the Cedars was one of the first accessible trails completed by the NPS. Originally, other parts of the trail were constructed using gravel and pavement, which deteriorated over time. In 2015, this portion of the trail was reconstructed using sustainable non-asphalt polymer surface.

As we made our way through the dense forest, there was a steady stream of people on the trail, but it still seemed quiet and peaceful. Some trees were marked with signs describing the species, which I always appreciate. Other signs sported an illustration and poem. It took us a few signs to realize that they were all haikus! Honestly, poetry and hiking trails go really well together.

In the quiet night
ambush on the forest floor
the predator dines

Haiku from a sign along Trail of the Cedars

After 0.4 miles, we reached the popular Avalanche Gorge, which Avalanche Creek traverses. The gorge is so beautiful it’s almost indescribable, and you can see why it’s so popular. The translucent bright blue water (which neither words nor photographs can accurately convey) cascades through a narrow canyon. When rocks grind together underneath a glacier, the resulting sediment powder gets suspended in the water. This sediment absorbs and scatters sunlight, creating the distinctive milky blue hue.

Avalanche Lake Trail

Almost immediately after crossing the gorge, we turned left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. The trail ascends slightly as it follows the gorge further upstream. The trail has a steady ascent of over 500 feet for 1.7 miles, and flattens out as you approach Avalanche Lake. More waterfalls appear as you ascend above the creek and past Avalanche Gorge. We took our time exploring and snapping photos before continuing past the gorge. Travis experimented with some long exposures, but he wasn’t happy with the results since he had forgotten his tripod.

The trail follows Avalanche Creek through the woods, then opens to views of the mountains. It’s our first glimpse that truly showcased the glacial valleys and peaks of Glacier National Park. The wooded trail is peaceful and beautiful, but we really felt like we were in Glacier when we saw the mountains.

Shortly before reaching the lake, we passed a short side trail on the right to two outhouses. Several of the longer trails in Glacier have outhouses along the way, which says a lot about the popularity of the park. In crowded parks like Glacier, they are essential for keeping the area clean.

Avalanche Lake

As we arrived at Avalanche Lake, we noticed lots of people milling around along the shoreline. There had been a guided hike earlier in the day, and a park ranger was there answering questions. Even with the crowd, everyone seemed to be respectful and took turns taking photos with the lake and mountain backdrop.

Nestled in a valley, Avalanche Lake has a beautiful light green hue. The logs scattered in the lake are a distinctive feature when compared to other lakes we visited. Unfortunately the sky was fairly hazy, and the lighting wasn’t the best, but we still enjoyed ourselves (how could we not?). Small rodents ran around (don’t feed them!), and we saw some interesting birds.

While most hikers stop once they reach Avalanche Lake, the trail continues to the far side of the lake. So of course, we had to explore a bit more. We were able to get relative solitude in the forested areas as we continued our hike around the lake. Occasional side trails provide beach access. The lake gets deeper toward the south side, and it takes on more of a turquoise color which I think is even more beautiful than the greenish hue in the shallow end.

As we continued on the trail, we heard something coming toward us. Another hiker? Bear? No! A deer was using the trail and coming right toward us. We stopped, and thought about backtracking to a side trail, but there wasn’t one nearby. As it approached us, the deer darted into the woods toward the lake, went around us, jumped back on the trail, and kept going. Problem solved.

At the end of the established trail is a sign, literally saying “End of Trail.” However there’s a clear social trail that continues beyond. We followed it to a beach on the south side of the lake. About a half dozen other people were also enjoying the less populated side of the lake. The view was just as impressive from this side, if not more so. Besides people, there were also a few deer poking around.

We sat down to a packed lunch at the sandy beach. Small streams flowed into the lake, and wildflowers dotted the landscape behind us. It was peaceful and quiet. Another visitor fished (Yellowstone cutthroat trout are native to the lake), and hikers passed by periodically. We spent a good while just relaxing and enjoying the scenery before retracing our steps along the shoreline and back down the trail.

Back to Trail of the Cedars

Above Avalanche Gorge, a sign warns visitors to stay on the trail, as drowning is the top cause of death in the park. We’ve heard of numerous drowning accidents over the years. Two deaths occurred during our trip – and drowning was the cause of one. The rivers and creeks are fast flowing, and can be very cold. So for your own safety, always stay on the trail, and avoid hiking solo if possible.

Travis’s leg was bothering him, so we stopped to rest for a bit, and then slowed down our pace. We made it back to the intersection with Trail of the Cedars. On the way, we took another look at Avalanche Gorge – and found that the harsh afternoon lighting made the area appear washed out. If you want to see Avalanche Gorge, I recommend visiting in the morning for more vibrant hues. However, the lake and mountains were more well-lit in the afternoon light, so hiking up in the morning and back in the afternoon is a good bet.

We then continued clockwise on Trail of the Cedars. Again it was a short and peaceful hike through the woods, but there are fewer boardwalks in this section. We passed a restroom and the Avalanche Campground Amphitheater before returning to our car.

Overall, we both really enjoyed this hike. Travis loved the boardwalk and Avalanche Gorge, and my favorite part was exploring (and just relaxing by) Avalanche Lake. It took us six and a half hours at a super leisurely pace. For a “normal” leisurely pace, we could probably hike it in four and half hours or so. It made for a great first hike in Glacier National Park!

Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop

Date: Sunday, July 21, 2019
Type: Dayhike Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 5.9 miles (9.5 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 735 feet (224 m)
Time: 6.5 hours
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: High
Water: Creeks and lakes
Highlights: Views, wildlife, gorge, water features, boardwalk
Directions to Trailhead: Trail of the Cedars Trailhead
Notes: You can go either way on the Trail of the Cedars Loop

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Trail of the Cedars Trailhead, on the northern side of Avalanche Creek, head clockwise on the trail. It will lead to a boardwalk through cedar, hemlock, and cottonwood forest.
• 0.4 mi – Cross Avalanche Creek. Avalanche Gorge is on your left. About 100 feet further down the trail, turn left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. After another 100 feet, turn left to stay on Avalanche Lake Trail at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail. This section will then ascend over 500 feet to the lake.
• 2.3 mi – You’ve arrived at the northern end (the foot) of Avalanche Lake, where water flows out. Stop to enjoy the beach as well as the lake and mountain views. Two outhouses are located nearby.
• 2.9 mi – The official trail ends, and a social trail continues. A few minutes’ walk takes you to the southern end of the lake (the head), where water flows into the lake. Another small beach is located here as well. Turn around when you want to head back.
• 5.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail to continue on Avalanche Lake Trail. Go 100 feet, then turn left onto Trail of the Cedars. This is the second half of the loop. You’ll pass a restroom and amphitheater along the way.
• 5.9 mi – Back at the trailhead

Maps

• Trail of Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Lake McDonald Valley Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Avalanche Lake Trail (NPS)
• Trail of the Cedars (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Back in 2018, we explored several regions of Japan, and we were particularly excited to finally visit some international National Parks. And we decided to start by hiking the big one: Mount Fuji (富士山, Fujisan). After that, we planned to stay in the town of Fujikawaguchiko (富士河口湖町, Fujikawaguchiko-machi), located beside Lake Kawaguchi (河口湖, Kawaguchiko) at the base of Mt. Fuji.

Spoiler alert: we weren’t able to climb Mt. Fuji, but we had fun anyway. This post details the bit we did get to experience on Mt. Fuji and in the town of Fujikawaguchiko (also located within Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park).

Planning

Mount Fuji is located in Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park (富士箱根伊豆国立公園, Fuji-Hakone-Izu Kokuritsu Kōen), southwest of Tokyo. The mountain is divided into 10 “stations,” ascending from bottom to top. We decided to start from the Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station, which is about halfway up and is accessible by bus.

There are four main trails to climb Mt. Fuji. It would be our first time hiking Fuji, so we chose the Yoshida Trail, which is the safest and most popular. It’s also easy to access from Tokyo, and has plenty of amenities. The route is around 9 miles round-trip (14.4 km), with over 4,800 feet (1463 m) of cumulative elevation gain.

We decided to make it an overnight so we could experience the sunrise. That requires waking up super early and climbing to the summit, which is supposed to be somewhat miserable…but we figured we’d be disappointed if we didn’t do it.

Scattered around Mt. Fuji are huts where guests can stay the night. Reservations are required, so we reserved spots at the Fujisan Hotel (located at the 8th Station), through Fuji Mountain Guides. This service was helpful because we were able to make our request online in English, and they booked the reservation for us.

Next, we needed transportation to Mt. Fuji, so we bought bus tickets from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station. We chose a bus with a restroom (not all buses have them) since the ride was around 2.5 hours. Two companies run buses from Shinjuku to Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station: Fujikyu and Keio. We made a reservation on a Keio bus through highwaybus.com for 6:45 a.m. The soonest we could make a reservation was around 30 days out.

We had planned our trip for early summer (the end of the rainy season) to avoid extreme crowding, so we knew there was a chance for storms. Other blogs were a good source for suggested gear. We already owned most of what we needed, but decided to purchase some heavier duty gloves and thermal base layers in case of cold or rainy weather.

Sadly, we had to call off our hike due to Typhoon Prapiroon. There’s not much you can do about 56 mph (90 km/h) winds, driving rain, and mudslides. Safety is our priority, and we try to remain flexible.

Tokyo to Mt. Fuji

Prior to attempting to hike Mt. Fuji, we stayed in Asakusa in Tokyo. Around 6:15 a.m., we took the admirably efficient train system to Shinjuku Station, then walked to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal above the JR Shinjuku Station. On the way, we made a quick stop at FamilyMart in the bus terminal for onigiri and sandwiches.

At 6:45, we boarded the bus and began navigating the streets of Tokyo. The bus was less than half full. I blame the rainy and dreary weather. We knew there was a possibility we’d have to cancel our hike, but we still had hope at this point. We kept an eye on the forecast, but it wasn’t very promising.

The bus ride was mostly uneventful, and we started to ascend Mt. Fuji. Hikers can start at the base of the mountain too, but we figured it would be challenging enough from the halfway point.

Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station

At 9:20 a.m., the bus arrived at the 5th station. It was pouring rain, windy, cold, and generally yucky. I almost didn’t want to get off the bus. But we hopped off, grabbed our backpacks from underneath the bus, and ran to the closest shelter we could find – a souvenir shop and lodge called Fujikyu Unjokaku.

As we pondered our next steps, we chatted with some other hikers, particularly about the inclement weather. Everyone seemed to be wondering what to do next. We stalled a bit by using the restroom and getting lunch. All public restrooms on the mountain cost 100 yen (we brought change).

Upstairs, the restaurant area was crowded with people who seemingly just finished their hike. We talked with a couple people who descended Mt. Fuji earlier that day and said it was miserable. They also mentioned that the weather had been perfect the previous day.

We ordered tempura udon and hoto, both of which were surprisingly delicious given the lack of other options. After we ate, we put on our rain gear, and decided to check the visitor information center. There, we were promptly told that hikers were not allowed to climb due to the current weather conditions.

So that was that. There were high winds, along with warnings about flooding and mud slides. Japan was hit hard by the typhoon, and there were even some deaths. Southern Japan was impacted the most, and we were fortunate to be further north.

We were disappointed (though not surprised), as were other hikers. Summitting Fuji is a lifelong dream for some. I was, however, relieved that we wouldn’t be hiking in those conditions. So, now what?

Our plan had been to travel to Lake Kawaguchi the following day, after completing our hike. We briefly discussed staying the night at the 5th Station, but instead decided we would travel to Lake Kawaguchi a day early so we could maximize our time and enjoyment on our international trip. The visitor center staff called Fujisan Hotel (our mountain hut) to cancel that reservation for us.

Before leaving, we explored the 5th station. We checked out the gift shops, then found Fujisan Komitake Shrine behind some buildings. The shrine was under construction, and even with the rain and wind, workers were doing some repairs.

We explored the picturesque temple, and got our goshuin stamped. In another small gift shop, we talked with a few employees, who kindly gave us some snacks. After looking around, we went to the bus booth and purchased our tickets to Kawaguchiko Station. The cost was 1,540 yen per person for a 45 minute ride.

Lake Kawaguchi – Day 1

Upon arriving in the lakeside town, the bus dropped us off at Kawaguchiko Station. We only had our backpacks with us. Our other luggage had been sent via Takkyubin to Kasuitei Ooya (花水庭おおや), the hotel where we planned to stay in Lake Kawaguchi.

At Kawaguchiko Station, we found a visitor center where the employees spoke English. They were able to book us a room at Katsuitei Ooya for that night. The only room available was a Japanese-style room – it was more expensive, but we were excited to stay there. The following night we’d have to switch to the western-style room we’d reserved previously.

The walk from the station to Katsuitei Ooya is only about 15 minutes. Conveniently, the hotel also provides a shuttle from the station, so we decide to take it. After a short drive, we checked in and went to our room – and were pleasantly surprised. Our Japanese-style room was spacious, and had a balcony with a gorgeous view of Lake Kawaguchi.

We were excited to explore Fujikawaguchiko. Afterall, the town is located inside a National Park. This concept intrigued us, since it’s quite different from National Parks in the United States. Thankfully, it wasn’t raining in town, but views of Mt. Fuji were non-existent. However, the sky and town were incredibly beautiful and serene.

Near our hotel, we browsed a row of small gift shops. We passed Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway which takes visitors to an observation deck near the peak of Mount Tenjo called Tenjoyama Park. Given the weather, we were unlikely to have a view of Mt. Fuji, but Travis and I agreed to check it out the following day (it was a must-do).

It was dinner time, so we searched online and found a tempura place called Fuji Tempura Idaten. It was a bit of a hike to get there, and it was some of the best tempura we’ve had. If you’re visiting Lake Kawaguchi, we highly recommend it – especially the asparagus tempura. The area is also well known for hoto, a thick miso stew with wide noodles. We planned to try that the following evening.

Lake Kawaguchi – Day 2

The next morning, we had a rather elaborate breakfast in the dining room at Katsuitei Ooya. We were looking to immerse ourselves in Japanese culture, so we wore our yukata. We weren’t sure if others would be wearing those or street clothes, but it was about 50/50. And they were pretty comfy too!

Next, we walked to Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway. It was raining on and off, but we were excited. After purchasing our tickets, we boarded the gondola. The views of the lake, mountains, and town were jaw-dropping. It was so gorgeous, even on a day with thick clouds, I doubt there is ever a bad view from there. Taking a slow day to explore is not our usual, and Lake Kawaguchi was the perfect place to do that.

At the top are multiple little attractions, as well as a gift shop. Scattered throughout the observation area are statues of a tanuki and a rabbit. These characters represent the Japanese fable Kachi-Kachi Yama – how a rabbit gets revenge against an evil tanuki…it’s actually a pretty dark story. Naturally, there’s also a small shrine to rabbits.

The clouds were so thick that we didn’t have a view of Mt. Fuji’s summit – but we could see the base. There are a few hiking trails up there, too. One is a long dayhike to Mount Mitsutoge (~6 hours round-trip), which unfortunately we didn’t know about at the time. Instead, we chose a much shorter 20 minute round-trip hike to the top of Mount Tenjo. The trail goes through woods and leads to a small shrine. We doubled back and took the ropeway down.

Once back down, we happened by Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine, and noticed a hiking trail that started there as well. We later learned that it leads up to Mount Tenjo and is called the “Hydrangea Route” since native hydrangea bloom there from mid-July to late-August. It was too late for us to hike it, but we were impressed with the hiking and walking options in the area. We also found a small shrine near a neighborhood.

The neighborhood itself was a peaceful, cute residential area with gardens in the back. We enjoyed getting a glimpse of the vernacular architecture and everyday Japanese life. It seemed like we often had a more authentic cultural experience when we got away from the hustle and bustle of the major cities and popular tourist attractions.

We were getting hungry, and we wanted to check out Hoto Fudo, a well known restaurant near Kawaguchiko Station. For whatever reason, they had closed early. Bummer. We searched online and found another hoto place called Koshu Hoto Kosaku, which was a 25-minute walk from our hotel. That wasn’t going to dissuade us though. The experience was worth the walk, as the food was delicious, and the ambiance was perfect. There are low tables, and it’s a huge space which we had almost entirely to ourselves.

Kawaguchiko – Day 3

The next day, we took a train from Lake Kawaguchi to Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), which is located in Chubu Sangaku National Park. We were ready for our next adventure, a three-day backpacking route up to Yarigatake. But the typhoon was still in full force throughout much of Japan, so once again we weren’t sure what to expect. Thankfully, Yarigatake would be much more successful than our Mt. Fuji climb.

Links

• Mount Fuji (富士山, Fujisan)
  • Fuji Mountain Guides – Reservations (English) – Third party service that will reserve Fuji mountain huts for guests
  • Highwaybus.com (English) – Shinjuku to Mt. Fuji Bus Reservations
  • Official Site for Climbing Mt. Fuji (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Climbing Mt Fuji (English)
  • Official Site for Climbing Mt. Fuji (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Climbing Mt Fuji (English)
  • Fuji Mountain Guides – Recommended Gear (English)
  • Gary J Wolff Climbing Mt. Fuji FAQ (English)
  • Fujikyu Unjokaku (English) – Souvenir shop, restaurant, and lodging at Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station
• Lake Kawaguchi (河口湖, Kawaguchiko)
  • Kasuitei Ooya (English) – Ryokan where we stayed in Kawaguchiko
  • Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (English)
  • Tenjoyama Park (English) – at the top of Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway
  • Fuji Tempura Idaten (Japanese, English translation available)
  • Koshu Hoto Kosaku (Japanese)

Places

• Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal | Japan, 〒151-0051 Tokyo, Shibuya City, 千駄ヶ谷５丁目２４ 55
• Mt. Fuji Subaru Line – 5th Station | Japan, 〒401-0320 Yamanashi, Minamitsuru District, Narusawa, 富士山五合目
• Fuji San Hotel | Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi 403-0005, Japan
• Kawaguchiko Station | 3641 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Kasuitei Ooya | 4025 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine | 4213 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Koshu Houtou Kosaku | 1638-1 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan

Interactive Map

The post Exploring Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Overview

A little known fact: Crater Lake is the fifth oldest national park in the United States. It was created in 1902 after a decades-long effort by William Gladstone Steel, who first visited in 1885. Fifteen years prior, he had read about the lake in a newspaper article – that his lunch was wrapped in. Steel was the driving force behind creating the park, and the main visitor center is named after him.

Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States, and the ninth deepest in the world. It was formed after a volcano, Mount Mazama, erupted in 5700 BC. The eruption caused the volcano to collapse, forming a large caldera. Over time, the caldera filled with water from snowmelt, creating the lake.

Assumedly, most people visit the park for its eponymous lake. That’s why we came – but we left with a greater understanding of the wider ecosystem. The park is not just a lake, but also the surrounding rivers, mountains, and volcanic features. We focused on hiking (and backpacking – though that didn’t pan out due to weather), but fishing, biking, and skiing are also popular.

Guide to Best Activities in Crater Lake National Park

1. Crater Lake Boat Tour – Taking a tour of Crater Lake was one of the highlights of our trip. Experiencing the geological features and vibrant blue color of the water up close was one of the most memorable parts of our trip.

   

2. Mount Scott – A hike to the highest point in the park, with panoramic views of Crater Lake. Our visit happened to coincide with a butterfly migration that only occurs every 5-6 years, which was both surprising and stunning.

   

3. Boundary Springs – An off the beaten path type of hike. This trail features no views of Crater Lake, but the forest, streams, and wildflowers make up for it. We saw where the Rogue River begins, as it emanates from the Earth.

   

4. Crater Lake Lodge – A beautiful hotel complete with restaurant, adjacent to Crater Lake. It’s the only lodging (other than campgrounds) in the park. The view, friendly staff, and easy access to hiking trails make this a special place to stay, or just visit as a day trip.

   

5. Garfield Peak – This trail provides some of the best views of Crater Lake. It was one of our favorite hikes in the park, even though we didn’t reach the top due to snow.

   

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Wizard Island – We imagine this is an epic place to go hiking. We tried our best to get to the island, but shuttles weren’t currently running due to maintenance issues. This is at the top of our list next time we visit.

  

  Crater Peak & Union Peak – Two hikes we wanted to do, but didn’t have time for. Both are located on the south side of the lake and are a bit longer than other dayhikes in the park.

  

  Backcountry Camping – Weather prevented us from doing a backpacking trip this time, but it’s on the list for our next visit. We had planned to do Bald Crater Loop, but a trip up to Union Peak would also make for a nice overnight.

  

Crater Lake Mini Adventures Guide

On our trip to Crater Lake National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Bert Creek & Sphagnum Bog – This particular adventure was all Travis’s idea. We drove into Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest, to Bert Creek Trail. We hiked along the trail into the northwest corner of Crater Lake National Park until we intersected with Bald Crater Loop Trail. After searching for the bog, it turned out you have to bushwhack to find it – and the amount of mosquitoes (even with repellent) dissuaded us enough to head back. Maybe some day we’ll try again (if Travis can convince Kristin).

  

• Lady of the Woods Trail – This short trail goes around Steel Visitor Center, and we didn’t like it. Its claim to fame is a stone sculpture of a woman, made in 1917 by Earl Russell Bush. There are nearby streams, but most of all there are tons of mosquitoes. The trail weaves around park buildings. It doesn’t offer much, though there is a trail guide you can pick up that corresponds to numbered posts along the way.

  

• Phantom Ship – An overlook at the intersection of Pinnacles Road and East Rim Drive offers a clear view of this rocky island in Crater Lake. If you use your imagination, it resembles a sailing ship. The overlook is easily accessible, but you can skip this if you go on a boat tour, since that gives you a closer view.

  

• Sinnot Memorial Overlook – Near Rim Village, on the south side of Crater Lake, is the Sinnot Memorial Observation Station. Built into the cliffside below Crater Lake’s rim, it offers gorgeous views and a small museum to explore. It’s located down a long flight of stairs, about 0.8 miles round trip. If you’re short on time, this is a good place to learn about the park.

  

• Whitewater Rafting the North Umpqua River – This one isn’t in Crater Lake National Park, but we’re mentioning it anyway. We booked a whitewater rafting trip along the North Umpqua River through Ouzel Outfitters. We drove about an hour and a half northwest of the park to the put-in. The trip went through numerous class II and III rapids, with one class IV near the end. Our guides were great, and we had a blast.

  

Weather

Crater Lake is filled only by snowmelt and rainfall, so naturally a ton of snow falls in the winter. The park is open through the winter, but we prefer warmer weather. July and August are the warmest months, and have the lowest chance of rainfall (though it rained during our trip in July). September might be ideal; it’s still warm-ish and usually too early for snow, so every trail will likely be open. October is a possibility too, but snow could start falling by then.

Visitation Statistics

Not surprisingly, visitation has increased at Crater Lake in the past decade. Nor is it surprising that July and August are the most popular months. If you can swing it, we suggest visiting in September to avoid crowds.

Other Crater Lake NP Tips

• Our plans changed constantly during our visit, so we had to be flexible, due to weather, remaining snow, and concessionaire issues.
• Along the same lines, be aware that some trails don’t become accessible until late July or mid-August due to snow.
• Book the lodge and any boat tours/shuttles as early as you can (and keep your fingers crossed).
• Check out Cleetwood Cove Trail, even if you can’t snag boat tour tickets. You’ll still have a chance to swim in the lake, and even jump in if you’re feeling brave.
• Avoid Annie Creek Restaurant (terrible food) and Rim Village Cafe (overpriced), unless desperate.
• If you have the flexibility, you might check out Lost Creek Campground instead of Mazama Campground. It’s first-come, first-served, and significantly smaller than Mazama Campground. While we didn’t spend the night there, it seemed quiet.
• If your tire springs a leak, like ours did, you can refill it at the gas station in Mazama Campground. If that air filler breaks, like it did when we were there, the next closest station is in Diamond Lake. And if that breaks, well, you might be out of luck.

Our Itinerary

Our trip didn’t go as planned due to weather and the lake tours not running. So we tried to be flexible so we could see as much of the park as possible. It happens sometimes, so be prepared.

Original Itinerary

Day	Plan	Lodging
1	Arrive and explore	Mazama Campground
2	Cleetwood Cove Trail, Wizard Island and Boat Tour	Mazama Campground
3	Mount Scott Trail, Plaikni Falls Trail, Pinnacles Trail	Mazama Campground
4	Garfield Peak, Sinnot Memorial Overlook	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
5	North Umpqua Whitewater Rafting	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
6	Bald Crater Loop Backpacking	Backcountry Camping
7	Bald Crater Loop Backpacking	Mazama Campground
8	Boundary Springs Trail or Crater Lake Rim Trail

Actual Itinerary

Day	Plan	Lodging
1	Arrive and explore	Mazama Campground
2	Visitor Center, Lady of the Woods Trail	Mazama Campground
3	Boundary Springs Trail	Diamond Lake Motel
4	Bert Creek Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
5	North Umpqua Whitewater Rafting	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
6	Mount Scott Trail, Plaikni Falls Trail, Pinnacles Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Parkside Room
7	Cleetwood Cove Trail, Boat Tour, Watchman Peak Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Parkside Room
8	Garfield Peak Trail

Our Experiences

• Mazama Campground
• Boundary Springs Trail
• Mount Scott Trail
• Pinnacles & Plaikni Falls Trails
• Cleetwood Cove & Boat Tour
• Watchman Peak Trail
• Garfield Peak Trail
• Restaurants and Accommodations

Crater Lake Map Guide

Paper Maps

• Crater Lake National Park Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)

The post Best Hikes, Itinerary and Planning Guide appeared first on KTNPBlog.

On our final day in Crater Lake National Park, we checked out of Crater Lake Lodge, and simply walked to our trail. Garfield Peak Trail begins just off of Rim Village Drive adjacent to the lodge, though we wouldn’t reach the trailhead sign for 0.2 miles. With easy access from the lake’s south rim, the trail is convenient and popular.

Garfield Peak was named after James Rudolph Garfield, who was Secretary of the Interior when the park was established in 1902. Fun historical fact: this James Garfield was the son of James A. Garfield, the 20th U.S. president.

The 3.4 mile trail to Garfield Peak is often closed (or partially closed) due to snow, even late in the season. It was July 31, and we would be able to hike 1.4 miles of the 1.7 miles (one way), so the final 0.3 miles to the peak was still off-limits. I’m glad that didn’t deter us, as there is so much to see on this trail.

Garfield Peak Trail

The best feature of Garfield Peak Trail is its location next to Crater Lake. Other trails, like Watchman Peak, are adjacent to the lake – but Garfield Peak Trail is designed to allow better and more consistent views of the lake than any other trail (barring Cleetwood Cove, perhaps). It also provides views of geological features, wildflowers, the lodge, and more.

Garfield Peak Trail is a straight shot up to the top – no intersections. After a short walk, we passed the trail sign, then hiked through some pine trees before reaching an open area. The trail ascended until we came to a bench with a great view of Crater Lake. Some ground squirrels ran around as we took a break and enjoyed the view.

The trail weaved back and forth through switchbacks as we continued. Though the trail route and rock formations blocked our view of Crater Lake in some spots, it always seemed to be waiting for us a few moments later. Wildflowers like Indian paintbrush and fireweed bloomed along the trail.

On our right, we had scenic views of the mountains and Crater Lake Lodge (which we highly recommend, by the way). The dusty trail passed some rock formations, and on the other side we got another view of Crater Lake.

Looking out, we spotted a small white dot on the lake – a tour boat! It reminded us of our adventure the previous day, when we took a boat tour of Crater Lake. We also caught a glimpse of Union Peak, another hike in the park we wished we had time for.

Snow Time

Looking out over the lake, we saw a large snowfield below the rim. As the snow melts, it forms waterfalls that fill the lake. But wait – there’s more! Back on the trail, we approached another snowfield that we’d have to cross. The park had posted signs to direct hikers through the snow.

By this time, other hikers had worn a trail through the snow that was easy enough to follow, even without signs. It was a bit slippery, and we used our trekking poles for balance as we hiked through this section.

Finally across the snowfield, we stepped back onto soil. Crater Lake came into view again, as did Phantom Ship and Mount Scott. Further down the trail, we were stopped by snow again. This time, there was no going through or around it. A sign announced that the trail was closed beyond that point. In a week or two, the trail would probably be open to the summit, but this was the end for us.

It was disappointing to stop short of the summit, but Garfield Peak is still one of my favorite trails in the park. We were lucky to hike it at all, since it had been closed when we arrived a week prior. Garfield Peak Trail is unique due to its panoramic views of Crater Lake and various landmarks along the way. We really enjoyed this trail, and it solidified many of the memories we had made on our trip to Crater Lake.

Garfield Peak Trail

Dates: Monday, July 31, 2017
Type: Out and back dayhike
Total Distance: 3.4 miles (5.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1170 feet (357 m)
Time: 2.5 hours round trip for us, not including the last 0.6 miles (round-trip), which was closed due to snow.
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Moderate
Water: Views of Crater Lake, and snow if you like
Highlights: Views, Wildflowers, Rock Formations
Directions to Crater Lake Lodge Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Park near the lodge, then follow the paved path east along the rim of Crater Lake.
• 0.2 – The trail transitions to a dirt path at a trail sign for Garfield Peak. While the sign says 3.4 miles round-trip, that distance begins at the lodge.
• 1.7 – You’ve arrived at the top of Garfield Peak (snow permitting)! Enjoy, then turn around and go back the way you came.
• 3.4 – Back at Crater Lake Lodge

Places

• Garfield Peak Trailhead | 42.909489, -122.1413882

Maps

• Garfield Peak Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Garfield Peak (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Garfield Peak Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Visiting Crater Lake National Park in late July means dealing with snow. Yes, somewhat hard to believe, but it’s true. When we arrived in the park, some hikes were still closed due to snow. Luckily for us, a park ranger we met on our lake tour mentioned that Watchman Peak had opened two days ago! So that’s where we headed that afternoon.

Watchman Peak Trail is a 1.7 mile out and back hike with views of Crater lake, including the best spot to see Wizard Island. At the top is one of two fire lookout towers in the park – the other being on Mount Scott. We’d read that the top had great sunset views, so we timed our arrival to coincide. Like many features, Watchman Peak was named by William Gladstone Steel, an early supporter and promoter of the park.

Through Fire and Snow

Along West Rim Drive, we encountered construction that slowed us down. The main parking lot for the area was closed due to construction, but there were some spots along the shoulder. Those spots had been parked up earlier that day, but there were plenty available when we showed up around 6:30 p.m.

We stopped at an overlook, which has access from both Rim Drive and Rim Trail. There were also a few outhouses. After taking in a view of Crater Lake, we headed south on Rim Trail. Looking off in the distance, we saw smoke rising from a wildfire, and the whole area had a smoky orange tinge.

As we approached the start of the trail, we could see Watchman Observation Station, the fire tower at the top. On the trail in front of us was an unexpected obstacle – snow. Honestly, we should have expected it since the trail had just opened for the season. Cut through the snow was a narrow path. It was fun to walk through the snow, and we were glad to have our trekking poles.

We came to the intersection of Rim Trail and Watchman Lookout Trail, and headed left for Watchman Peak. After the snow came a series of switchbacks. We gradually ascended with alternating views of the mountains and Crater Lake. The climb was reminiscent of Mount Scott due to its trees, wildflowers, sandy trail, and switchbacks.

The Peak of Watchman

At the top of Watchman Peak, we met some firefighters. They pointed out another fire in the distance, and told us there were several currently burning in the area. The observation station was constructed between 1930 and 1933, and was originally intended as part educational center. Today, it functions primarily as a fire lookout, with a few informational signs on a viewing platform.

The firefighters descended, and we were again alone. We read the signs, took photos, and realized that the sunset views were over the mountains, not the lake. For some reason we had expected them to be over the lake, but that was probably wishful thinking.

It was time for dinner, so we ate – and enjoyed the impressive 270 degree views – while we waited for the sunset. A few other hikers joined us. The sky was hazy due to wildfires, and we wondered whether the sunset would be more impressive because of the smoke. For the first time, we could see inside the crater on top of Wizard Island.

It was a colorful sunset, and we stayed up there for 45 minutes before heading back down. Gnats were biting us a lot, which hindered our enjoyment, but I’m glad we went up later in the day. I bet it would also be a great place to see the sunrise! As we descended, the mountain glowed red as the sun continued to set, which made for a nice ending to the hike.

Watchman Peak Trail

Dates: Sunday, July 30, 2017
Type: Out and back dayhike
Total Distance: 1.7 miles (2.7 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 405 feet (123 m)
Time: 1.5 hours hiking, not including the time we spent on top of Watchman Peak
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: Only a few groups late in the afternoon
Water: Views of Crater Lake
Highlights: Views, history, wildflowers
Directions to Watchman Overlook Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Watchman Overlook parking lot, head south on Rim Trail.
• 0.3 – Turn left onto Watchman Peak Trail.
• 0.85 – Arrive at Watchman Peak Lookout. There are educational signs and a viewing platform next to the lookout. When ready, head back down on Watchman Peak Trail.
• 1.4 – Turn right onto Rim Trail
• 1.7 – Arrived back at the parking lot.

Places

• Watchman Overlook Trailhead | 42.9464707, -122.1700579

Maps

• Watchman Peak Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• The Watchman (NPS)
• Watchman Lookout Station (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Watchman Peak Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Planning and Disappointments

One activity we wanted to do in Crater Lake National Park was to get out on Crater Lake itself. The park does tours of the lake, and also has shuttles to Wizard Island. The island is a 316-acre landmass within Crater Lake and has several hiking trails. Months before our visit, we reserved tickets for the boat tour, including the Wizard Island shuttle.

Visitors can only get to the shoreline of Crater Lake via a steep 2.1 mile trail called Cleetwood Cove. It’s at the northern end of the lake and was constructed in 1962. The trail leads to a boat dock, as well as fishing and swimming areas. In the summer, the lake’s average temperature is 57 degrees Fahrenheit, and I planned to jump in.

When we travel, we typically plan detailed itineraries. Visiting Crater Lake National Park was one of few times when our plans went awry. And it started on day 1. This trip was back in 2017 when the park’s concessionaire was Xanterra, so things could (and hopefully) have changed since then. In 2018 the concessionaire changed to Aramark. Then in 2024, the National Park Service terminated the contract with Aramark due to performance issues, and the current concessionaire is now ExplorUS.

Day 1 – Monday

After wrapping up a better-than-expected visit to Redwood National Park, we drove north to Crater Lake. Kristin was particularly excited about visiting Crater Lake, especially since we had scheduled our boat tour for the following day. But that soon turned to disappointment. A sign at the entrance kiosk stated that all boat tours were cancelled for the day. We asked the ranger at the entrance if he had any info – he didn’t. So we asked a Xanterra employee at Mazama Campground. He didn’t know either.

Concerned that our tickets would be cancelled, we drove up to Crater Lake Lodge. There, an employee told us the Wizard Island shuttles had been cancelled for the season. Since we had combined tickets for both the boat tour and Wizard Island shuttle, our tickets were also cancelled. We’d get a refund, but they didn’t know when lake tours would resume. Supposedly, we should have received a cancellation notice. We hadn’t.

Day 2 – Tuesday

That morning, we woke up early, hoping the boats would be up and running. We went to Annie Creek to attempt to purchase any available lake tour tickets. A sign on the kiosk said that tours were cancelled for that day, too. We talked to two employees who didn’t know anything.

Next, we ran into the director of retail. He told us that the boats had been damaged over the winter due to a leak in the boathouse roof. With only one operational boat, they were unable to run tours. A repair tech was expected on Friday, (then three days out), so it was unlikely that boats would be running before then.

We headed to Crater Lake Lodge (one of few places we had a cell signal) to call Xanterra to ask about boat tour tickets for that Friday or Saturday. They couldn’t get us a reservation, but gave us another number to call. No one answered. Inside the lodge, an employee said there was a list of guests who would be given priority once the boats were up and running, if their tour had been canceled. We were skeptical, but put our names on the list anyway.

For the next few days, we routinely checked in with lodge employees, and were told various pieces of conflicting information. At least they tried to be helpful. In the meantime, we went to hike some nearby trails, like Boundary Springs and Mount Scott.

Day 6 – Saturday

On Saturday evening, we asked lodge employees about the boat tour status (again). We were finally told that boat tour ticket sales would resume the next day, but only for the standard lake tour. No shuttles to Wizard Island. Still, we were overjoyed! The downside was that tickets were only available the next morning at the trailhead of Cleetwood Cove, the trail that leads to the boat dock on Crater Lake.

Day 7 – Sunday

So excited, we woke up early to go get our tickets. As we headed out, we asked the lodge employees (who were starting to get to know us) if there were any updates. They told us that things had changed (surprise, surprise) and now there weren’t any tickets available. The tickets had gone to the people who had booked tours way in advance for that date. Like we had done for our original tickets.

So we went back to our room and went to sleep. Just kidding. We were determined to get on a boat tour. We would at least hike Cleetwood Cove Trail and get a better view of the lake! Maybe glare at some of the folks who were lucky enough to have chosen this date for their tour months ago.

We arrived at the Cleetwood Cove trailhead around 8:15 a.m. The ticket kiosk is in a large parking lot across the street. At the kiosk, an employee reiterated that tickets were sold out. We spoke to the boat manager, who said the same thing. Many other visitors were there complaining, since tickets purchased the previous day were not being honored. It was very confusing!

This was our last day in the park; tomorrow we’d be driving to Bend, Oregon. I got the boat manager’s e-mail, in case tickets became available the following week when we’d still be in the area. With that, we decided to hike down Cleetwood Cove Trail. We had heard there was another kiosk at the bottom, so we figured it couldn’t hurt to check there as well.

Cleetwood Cove Trail

Okay, we’re done complaining for a bit. We started hiking down Cleetwood Cove Trail, a dusty series of switchbacks with great views of Crater Lake. Along the way were a few benches and trees for periodic shade. Sun exposure along the trail is pretty intense, especially as you get closer to the lake.

Since Cleetwood Cove Trail is the only access to Crater Lake, the trail was crowded. Hiking down is easy, but we tried not to think about the hike back up. As we descended, we saw the boat dock and other buildings below. The trail was named after a boat, called the Cleetwood, used to survey the lake in 1886.

When we reached the bottom, we headed straight for the ticket kiosk. There, we asked an employee if tickets were still available. Initially, she said no. After chatting more, she mentioned the possibility of getting on a tour if someone doesn’t show. So she could add our names to a waitlist, and we could purchase our tickets at 9:15 if there were at least two no shows.

If we purchased tickets, and the other party showed up at the last minute, their tickets would be honored, not ours. We went for it and asked her to add our names to the waitlist. After thanking her profusely, we walked over to the shore and watched people jump into the lake.

At 9:15, we returned to the kiosk, as our new friend had recommended. She asked us to wait as they checked everyone in. We waited…fingers crossed. And finally. Finally. Our persistence (and being annoying) paid off. Three people didn’t show up, so we were able to buy tickets! We boarded the boat, and nervously looked toward Cleetwood Cove Trail, hoping the original ticket purchasers weren’t coming down. They weren’t, and we were off!

A Lake Tour

Finally, we were out on the lake…it was an ordeal to get there! The boat began its counter-clockwise circumnavigation of the lake, which would take two hours. We got to hear from Park Ranger Margaret, who provided historical and geological information about the lake and surrounding area.

A man named William Gladstone Steel campaigned for 17 years to persuade congress to designate Crater Lake as a national park. To promote the park, he gave features interesting names to attract tourists. Ranger Margaret pointed out a rocky ridge called Devil’s Backbone – a feature named by Steel. We saw other rock features named after an elephant’s trunk, a wine glass, and many other objects of our imagination.

The boat paused at various points, giving Ranger Margaret an opportunity to elaborate on the history and geology of the area. As the boat sped up to get to the next viewpoint, Ranger Margaret moved around and chatted with passengers. Turns out we grew up in the same area, near Roanoke, VA!

As the boat traveled past the tree-covered Wizard Island, we caught a glimpse of a rocky beach and dock. We were tempted to jump in and swim for it. Like Devil’s Backbone, Wizard Island was named by William Steel to promote tourism. It’s the largest island in Crater Lake, and the only place you can swim other than the dock area at Cleetwood Cove.

Crater Lake is formed entirely by snowmelt – there are no streams, creeks, or rivers flowing into it. Ranger Margaret pointed out a landslide area that had formed a shelf above the lake, which collects snow during winter. As the temperature warms, it melts to form many beautiful waterfalls. When the boat slowed down, we could hear water cascading into the lake.

We continued on to an island known as Phantom Ship. The boat sailed around the rocky yet colorful lichen-covered formation. As we went around it, we saw a rocky shelf in the water below us. Suddenly, the shelf dropped off into a dark blue expanse.

Ranger Margaret passed out a Secchi disk – a tool used to determine the visual clarity of the lake. Crater Lake is strikingly clear. And it’s so clean that you can drink the water without filtering. Ranger Margaret offered to fill up water bottles to drink directly from the lake. Sadly, we didn’t have any bottles with us, only hydration bladders in our backpacks. Next time…?

There are typically three boats that operate on Crater Lake, each named after a nearby river – Klamath, Umpqua, and Rogue. Today, only two were in service, one of which was on standby in case of an emergency. Also, capacity for each boat is limited to only 38 people.

As the boat arrived back at the harbor, we were satisfied, even though we didn’t make it to Wizard Island. It was amazing to see the lake from a different vantage point. The tour was very informative and we highly recommend it!

Swimming in Crater Lake

We decided to fully immerse ourselves in Crater Lake – literally. Lots of people were at Cleetwood Cove and many were in the water. I wanted to jump in, so we went to a small cliff by the restrooms where others were jumping off. We watched, as I mentally prepared. The 20 foot drop seems much greater when you’re up there, but I was determined.

I walked up to the cliff, and looked back at Kristin. Camera in hand, she nodded to indicate that she was recording. Looking down at the water, I was scared. But it was now or never. I jumped off the cliff. It was exhilarating in the air…and then the cold water shocked me as I plunged in. Underwater, I felt disoriented for a moment, since I had to keep my eyes closed so my contacts wouldn’t fall out.

Surfacing, I headed to shore. I looked up at Kristin. She yelled down to me, “it didn’t record – you have to do it again!” Everyone within earshot area laughed. She wasn’t joking. I got out of the water, slightly exasperated. I had to do it again. The second time was easier than the first, and I made sure water didn’t get into my nose this time.

Kristin’s turn. But she decided to wade in. She hates the cold, but turns out the water wasn’t as cold as she expected. Perhaps because she chose a shallow area? We dried off, and put on our boots to hike back up Cleetwood Cove Trail. The trail was grueling with switchbacks, elevation gain, and hot weather. Every so often we stopped at a bench to rest. You can equate hiking back up to climbing 65 flights of stairs.

When we got back to the parking lot, it was packed. Good thing we had gotten there early. And with that, our lake adventure was over. It was an experience – both the tour itself, and getting on the boat in the first place. Hopefully the change of concessionaires to Aramark has alleviated some of the communication issues. Someday, we’ll be back to visit Wizard Island.

Cleetwood Cove Trail itself wasn’t that interesting, but it boasts close-up views of Crater Lake. The Crater Lake tour was informative, breathtaking, and provided a perspective of the lake you can only get from a boat. We highly recommend it, if you can get tickets.

Cleetwood Cove Trail

Date: Sunday, July 30, 2017
Type: Out and Back Dayhike
Total Distance: 2.1 miles (3.4 km) round-trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 816 feet (249 m)
Time: 20-25 minutes to descend, 30-35 minutes to ascend
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Easy on the way down, moderate on the way back
Crowds: Yes
Water: Crater Lake view and access
Highlights: Views, Swimming, Boat Tour, Unique Experience
Directions to Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the trailhead, follow the trail as it descends
• 0.9 – You’ve reached the bottom. You can take a side trail to the dock, or continue to a swimming area.
• 1.0 – The trail ends near the restrooms and swimming area. Jump in the lake (or watch others jump in), then head back up when you’re ready.
• 2.1 – Back at the trailhead

Places

• Cleetwood Cove Trailhead | 42.9797531, -122.0837881
• Cleetwood Cove Dock | 42.9771349, -122.0880832

Links

• Cleetwood Cove (NPS)
• Devil’s Backbone (Crater Lake Institute)
• Llao Rock (Crater Lake Institute)
• Wizard Island (Wikipedia)

Maps

• Cleetwood Cove Trail Map (KTNPBlog)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Cleetwood Cove Trail and Boat Tour appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We had just finished hiking Mount Scott, also in the southeast section of the park. It was an easy drive to Pinnacles Road, which intersects with East Rim Drive at Phantom Ship Overlook. Plaikni Falls was our next destination, 1.1 miles down Pinnacles Road.

Plaikni Falls Trail

The trail to Plaikni Falls is an easy 2-mile out and back hike. The trail, constructed in 2011, is mostly wheelchair accessible. The exception is the short section at the end which allows visitors to walk closer to the falls. The name “Plaikni” comes from a Klamath Native American word that means “from the high country.”

Rocks line the manicured path, and distinctive benches are placed periodically along the trail. Meandering through a forest, the trail passes a large rocky outcropping on the left. Red, yellow, and purple wildflowers were scattered along the trail. I was surprised by the plant diversity given how short the trail is. There were columbines, monkey flowers, orchids, bleeding hearts, and more!

As we approached the end of the trail, a stream flowed on our right. Upstream we saw the beautiful Plaikni Falls, where a few other groups enjoyed the scenery. After a brief wait, we had it all to ourselves for a few minutes. We were able to get close enough to the falls to feel drops of water, which was very refreshing. Late afternoon is the perfect time to photograph Plaikni Falls to avoid glare from the sun.

Although there were a few mosquitoes, particularly close to the water, this short hike has great payoff. The trail is wide and flat, so it’s easily accessible for people of all abilities. We usually prefer more rugged terrain, but this hike is well-maintained and culminates in a captivating waterfall.

Pinnacles Trail

After enjoying Plaikni Falls, we drove further south to Pinnacles Trail, at the end of Pinnacles Road. On the way, we stopped to check out Lost Creek Campground, which the National Park Service operates. The first-come, first-served primitive campsites cost $10 per night. It was very quiet, and we wished we had stayed there rather than Mazama Campground. The campground bathrooms (outhouses) are the only in the area, as Plaikni Falls and Pinnacles don’t have any facilities.

We parked in the small lot near Pinnacles Trail, along with a few other visitors. A sign details the geological formation of the nearby spires, some of which we could see from the parking lot. The spires, also called fossil fumaroles, were formed by volcanic gases and steam that were released through tubes in ash that covered the area. Over time, these tubes hardened and the ash surrounding them eroded, leaving the spires.

Although you can see some volcanic spires from the parking lot, a 0.8 mile out and back hike takes visitors along a rim overlooking Wheeler and Sand Creeks. Like Plaikni Falls, Pinnacles Trail is wheelchair accessible. Covered with gravel and sand, the trail is easy and flat.

Along the trail are several lookouts into the canyon, providing views of the pinnacles and Sand Creek. Clusters of pinnacles line the trail side of the canyon. Looking across to the other side are lone pinnacles amongst the trees. Some spires were fun (and difficult) to pick out from the trees! Afternoon is not an ideal time for photography; morning or midday might have provided better lighting.

At the end of the trail is a large stone structure which marks the historic eastern entrance to the park. The structure was built by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) in 1937 and the entrance was closed in 1973 due to disuse. We noticed how similar it looked to the north entrance.

Beyond that point, the trail becomes a forest road and continues into Fremont-Winema National Forest. After relaxing a moment in solitude, we turned around and headed back to the parking lot. This is a short and unique hike, especially for those interested in geology.

Places

• Plaikni Falls Trailhead | 42.907286, -122.0684791
• Pinnacles Trailhead | 42.849872, -122.0074557
• Lost Creek Campground | 42.8793819, -122.0369873

Links

• Plaikni Falls Trail (Crater Lake Institute)
• Crater Lake East Entrance (Oregon Hikers)

The post Plaikni Falls & Pinnacles Trails appeared first on KTNPBlog.

So far in Crater Lake National Park, we had hiked some lesser known trails like Boundary Springs. It was finally time to do some more “popular” hikes. Today we decided to hike Mount Scott, a 4.3 mile out and back trail located on the eastern side of the park. The trail ascends 1318 feet, and features views of Crater Lake and the surrounding mountains. Mount Scott is the highest point in Crater Lake National Park at 8929 feet and is named after Levi Scott (1797–1890), an Oregon politician and pioneer.

After getting a late start, around 11 a.m., we peered over steep cliffs on the side of Rim Road as our car weaved its way up to the trailhead. The parking lot was full – it’s small given Mt. Scott’s popularity. Thankfully, a short distance beyond was a picnic area that had some parking. It also had a pit toilet, which the lot at the trailhead lacks.

Mt. Scott Trail

Carefully, we walked along the narrow shoulder of the road to the trailhead. Even in late July, a small snowfield partially covered the beginning of the trail and other areas of the mountain. Some hikers went around, and some trudged through.

Initially, the trail ascended gently, but quickly became steeper and more exposed to the sun. On a warm summer day, we were glad to have the occasional tree to take a break under, as well as a slight breeze. We ascended up switchbacks, which allowed for beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. While we stopped to admire the mountain view, we realized Crater Lake was already visible!

As usual, I stopped to check out some wildflowers. An older couple passed us and the man asked, “Oh, are you a wildflower guy too?” That made us smile (I am). We chatted briefly and he told us about a type of flower higher up that looked like something from Dr. Seuss. The fluffy flower was a called a Western Pasqueflower and we soon found it.

Not surprisingly, the views improved as we ascended, though they were partially obstructed by trees in places. The trail is steep and narrow. There were a lot of other hikers on the trail; if you’re looking for solitude, this isn’t the hike for you. We also had some unexpected guests: butterflies. Hundreds, maybe thousands of them!

As we hiked, we could hear wings flapping, and butterflies continually ran (flew?) into us, which was somewhat disconcerting. It was certainly a surprise! Ascending higher only made more appear. Why were there so many? We didn’t find out the answer until later; they were California tortoiseshell butterflies, and they appear every 5-6 years, possibly because of a migration event. Lucky us, we just happened to time it right.

Mountain Ridge and Fire Tower

Hiking further up, we passed three firefighters descending the mountain. With several active wildfires in the park, we weren’t too surprised to see them. There’s a fire tower at the peak, though there is no public access.

Switchbacks are annoying, but the turns allowed us to take in the views. Finally, we came to a ridge, which leads to the fire tower. As we walked along the narrow gravelly ridge, we enjoyed a breeze, as well as more breathtaking views of Crater Lake to the left and mountains to the right.

Butterflies swarmed over the ridge. We stopped to take in the phenomenon. They were flying over our heads, but they didn’t bother or land on us. It was time for lunch, so we ate near the fire tower. A ground squirrel appeared and ran around us. It had probably been fed by other tourists, so we made sure to protect our food.

After lunch, we began the steep and rocky descent. Trekking poles helped minimize the impact to our knees, and we definitely recommend them. We saw a couple pushing a stroller – probably not recommended with the rock and loose gravel, especially near the top. Although it was very warm, hikers continued to ascend in the mid-afternoon.

Mount Scott Trail has a steady incline, loose dirt and gravel, and plenty of sun exposure. The trailhead sign states that it’s strenuous, though a seasoned hiker might find it moderate. We enjoyed the trail and views, and the butterflies made it an almost otherworldly experience. Our recommendations: visit on a weekday, arrive early to avoid crowds as much as possible, and choose a day with milder weather since there isn’t much shade. Enjoy!

Mount Scott Trail

Dates: Saturday, July 29, 2017
Type: Out and back hike
Total Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9 km) round-trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1,318 feet (402 m)
Time: 3 hours, including lunch and lots of photo breaks
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Very populated
Water: None; views of Crater Lake
Highlights: Views, fire tower, snow, wildflowers, butterflies
Note: If main parking lot is full, look for the picnic area further north
Directions to Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the trailhead, follow the trail. You might cross a couple snowfields before starting the ascent up switchbacks.
• 2.2 – Arrive at the top of the mountain. Check out the sweeping views and fire tower, then head back down the way you came.
• 4.3 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Mount Scott Trailhead | 42.9316667, -122.0323522

Maps

• Mount Scott Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Butterflies News Article
• Levi Scott (Wikipedia)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Mount Scott Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.