Moab Eats

One of our favorite Moab spots, 98 Center (named after its address), has a thoughtful and creative menu. They specialize in Asian (primarily Vietnamese) fusion in a trendy yet casual atmosphere. On our first visit, we ordered a pork banh mi and pho to share. The pho broth was delicious, with a light but well-developed flavor. Travis enjoyed it with a squeeze of fresh lime. We chatted with our waitress about how the restaurant caters to various diets (such as vegan, vegetarian, paleo, and keto) and how she’s influenced the menu.

We loved the cozy vibe, friendly and knowledgeable wait staff, and unique menu items so much we went back for a second visit. And did I mention the banh mi nachos?? So delicious, and they even put vegan cheese on mine.

The line was out the door when we arrived at Love Muffin Cafe. Once we made our way to the front, we both ordered the Bomber Burrito. I asked for no cheese (since I’m sensitive to dairy), and requested that it be marked since we got the same thing. They have a few vegan muffin options, including the Good Morning which has carrots and raisins, and Cranberry Bran, which I decided to try. Next, we found a spot at the “bar” and made ourselves at home. The food was tasty and the place has a funky vibe. The only thing I didn’t like was that my sandwich was not marked, as promised, and yes – they were mixed up.

During our visit in 2018, Travis waited in the line at the popular Quesadilla Mobilla while I went shopping around the corner. I had contemplated getting “The Vegan,” but didn’t for a few reasons. First, we had just finished breakfast. Second, their menu states that they don’t recommend that option. Maybe it’s a joke (I get it, it’s a quesadilla place), but that’s a terrible business move. Travis got the chicken one, and said it was amazing. It looked crispy and had lots of filling. If I could have eaten it, I would have!

Fast forward to 2019, and this time I wasn’t going to miss out. After waiting in another long line, the server said any quesadilla could be made with beans instead of cheese. I can’t even remember which I decided on, but guess what – it was delicious! And Travis’s, which had cheese of course, looked and smelled great too.

Milt’s is a super casual diner and a Moab institution. It was exactly the atmosphere we were looking for after a day of exploring Arches NP. Most of the seating is outdoors, but an employee announced that there were spots inside. It had gotten a bit chilly, so we headed in and sat at the bar. Travis ordered a bacon cheeseburger and tots. I ordered a buffalo burger and onion rings. It took about 35 mins, which they warned us about in advance. That also gave me time to enjoy the classic – even obscure – country tunes they were playing, which I happen to enjoy.

The food came out hot, and my onion rings were crispy and delicious. They had “fry sauce” on the counter (which the waiter said was a mix of ketchup, mayo, salt, and pepper) which was amazing. I snagged a few tots from Travis and they were nice and crispy on the outside too. Travis got an Oreo milkshake, which he said was good, but it wasn’t as thick as he would like, and chunks of cookie got stuck in the straw. But in my opinion, if you’re gonna get an Oreo milkshake, you can’t really complain about that. Travis said Snack Shack near Redwood NP had a better shake, but he still recommends Milt’s.

We didn’t eat at Sabaku Sushi on our first trip because we questioned how good a sushi place in the middle of Utah could possibly be. It turns out – very. They have plenty of spicy options. In fact, if you’re sensitive to spice, you may want to ask your server to ensure you know what you’re getting.

We shared the Fiery Furnace Roll, which is spicy tuna plus tempura bits on the outside, and spicy sauce on top (which I removed). We also got a Rainbow Bridge Roll which is a standard rainbow roll with fresh fish on top. Travis got tempura which he enjoyed, but some pieces (such as sweet potato) were not cooked through. The Sandstone Crunch Roll – shishito pepper, tempura, avocado, and salmon – was tasty, but one super spicy bite left Travis almost in tears. He got mochi ice cream afterward to calm his palate (so he claimed).

Moab Garage Co. is a surprising name for an ice cream shop – it’s named after the car repair shop that occupied the space from 1928 to 1975. Each serving of ice cream is made to order with liquid nitrogen, and either a dairy or coconut milk base. I got the blueberry basil, which ended up being my fave since it was refreshing and not overly sweet.

On our next visit, I got chocolate (with pretzels and almonds), which was tasty but a bit too sweet for me. Be mindful that some ingredients are not vegan (e.g. the cookie dough contains butter); fortunately the staff is very friendly and forthcoming with allergen info. On one of our visits, they warned me that a few chocolate chips with dairy had gotten in my coconut milk-based ice “cream,” and offered to remake it. I didn’t take them up on it, but I appreciated the offer.

The food at Moab Kitchen was vegan, homey, and unique. The setting was very hippy-esque and laid-back. It appeared that we were literally dining in the backyard / outdoor living room of the chef-owner. We shared a curry dish made with four different veggies including eggplant, jackfruit, and cabbage. While we aren’t vegan, the food was fun and flavorful. We also shared a delicious samosa. If we had stopped there, it would have been an awesome experience.

The cupcakes, which were also vegan, seemed store-bought and didn’t excite me. When I opened my chocolate cupcake, I was shocked to see that it had mold on top. I took it back to the chef; he swore, then gave me a new one. After a thorough check, I tasted it and decided it was only okay. But because of the experience with the first cupcake, I only had a small bite and wasn’t willing to eat the rest. In retrospect, I should have asked for my money back.

Travis loves craft beer, so he always ends up dragging me to at least one brewery. Moab Brewery was probably the weakest food we had in Moab. My salmon burger was dry and flavorless. The fries seemed okay at the start, but as they cooled off, they were blah. In a town full of fun and eclectic restaurants, it felt boring and forgettable. Maybe we ordered the wrong thing. Next time I suggested looking up which local restaurants have specific craft beers that Travis wants to try (there must be an app for that), so I can get good food too. We could always swing by the brewery to pick up a souvenir pint glass later. And on the plus side, Travis did enjoy the beer.

Moab has a fun food scene that’s one of a kind. There are a few places we still didn’t make it to. On our list for next time: Moab Spitfire Smokehouse (a BBQ food truck that closes early if they sell out), El Charro Loco, Miguel’s Baja Grill, and Arches Thai. At least that’s the plan, if we can drag ourselves away from the pho and quesadillas.

Moab Accommodations, etc.

Another thing I like about Moab: Main Street. I love places where the main street is actually called Main Street. This one is a great place to stretch your legs and take in the sights. It’s touristy though, with a seemingly endless line of cars entering Moab from the park. Of course, we’ve only visited during spring break, when Moab has its “Jeep Week,” which is exactly what it sounds like. But people here seemed pretty chill and laid-back.

Indigo Alley is a cute little shop with cool clothes, accessories, and personal care products. The shop owner was very personable and I chatted with her as I browsed the selection of sunglasses and leggings. She said she had been living in the area for almost 30 years.

One morning, we did laundry at Moab Laundry Express. It’s located in a little house just off main street. We walked in and immediately got sticker shock. But the machines looked nice…and we were already there, so we gave it a go. The machines washed and dried our clothes with no issues, so we can’t complain. They had everything you need, including machines that dispense laundry detergent and swap out your bills for change. We had gotten quarters at the hotel and brought a small packet of laundry detergent from home, but it would’ve worked out either way.

We stayed at Inca Inn in 2018 and had a good experience, so we booked another stay in 2019. Their motel-style rooms are reasonably priced and clean. The shower had weak water pressure, and colorful lights on the showerhead which I thought were pointless (though Travis liked them). It was quiet, with basic amenities such as an older style tv (which we didn’t watch anyway). There weren’t many electrical outlets, but the side table had a power strip which included three USB ports.

While there are plenty of hotel options in town, we appreciated Inca Inn’s friendly staff, clean rooms, comfy bed (more so than most we’ve stayed at), and proximity to Arches NP. A basic breakfast (when we visited they had things like oatmeal packets, hard boiled eggs, cereal, toast, jam, peanut butter, juice, milk, water, and all-day coffee) is included. Think “grab and go” for your adventure in the park. One morning, they only had original unflavored oatmeal, so I asked the hostess and she brought me some flavored options which I really appreciated (it’s the little things, right?). Also, the hot water in their lobby is always HOT, which is more than I can say about other places.

We had a blast in Moab on both our visits, and we can’t wait to go back. It’s a fun place to explore, and it boasts a variety of quirky and delicious restaurants. Best of all, it’s right down the road from Arches National Park.

Links

• Restaurants
  • 98 Center | 98 East Center St. Moab, UT 84532
  • Love Muffin Cafe | 139 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Quesadilla Mobilla | 95 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Milt’s Stop & Eat | 356 S Mill Creek Dr, Moab, UT 84532
  • Sabaku Sushi | 90 E Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Garage Co. | 78 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Kitchen | 180 W Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Brewery | 686 S Main St, Moab, UT 84532
• Shops
  • Indigo Alley | 77 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Laundry Express LLC | 16 W 100 N, Moab, UT 84532
• Accommodations
  • Inca Inn | 570 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532

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Note: This trip was back in 2017 when the park’s concessionaire was Xanterra. It’s now Aramark, so options inside the park may have changed.

There’s only one hotel in the park: Crater Lake Lodge. We had booked two nights, several months in advance, and were excited to stay there. But first, we’d be staying at Mazama campground. After setting up our campsite, we drove up to the lodge for a gorgeous view of the lake.

After staying two miserable nights in the campground, and cancelling our backpacking trip due to thunderstorms, we tried to get a room at the lodge. They were booked that night, but we were able to reserve a room for the following two nights.

Accommodations Outside the Park

We decided to call Diamond Lake Resort, located 45 minutes north of the park, in the Umpqua National Forest. Thankfully, we were able to reserve a room for that night. On the way, we hiked Boundary Springs Trail, which we highly recommend.

When you hear the name Diamond Lake, you expect something spectacular. However, it turned out to be pretty low-key. Its architecture is quaint and cottagey, and guest rooms are small, comfortable, and unassuming. Largely due to its location, it’s a budget-friendly alternative to Crater Lake Lodge. And we were glad they had availability, since we had no other good options.

Crater Lake Lodge

The following day, we checked in to Crater Lake Lodge. The guestrooms we stayed in were cozy, with basic amenities. There is no A/C, so we relied on fans to stay cool. The first room we stayed in had a view of Crater Lake, which added to the experience. After two nights, we switched to a room with a view of mountains on the opposite side. It was located on the top floor, in the eaves, so we were uncomfortably hot at night.

It would have been ideal to stay in one room for the entire visit, but at least they had some availability when our plans fell through. Staff at the lodge were friendly and helpful. They moved our luggage between rooms, and listened to our incessant questions about the status of our Crater Lake Boat Tour.

Overall we enjoyed the atmosphere at the lodge. We sat outside on the deck overlooking Crater Lake. In the evenings, we enjoyed relaxing in the Great Hall, particularly when the fireplace was lit. The lodge was crowded during the day, but cleared out in the evenings when only overnight guests remained.

Restaurants in the Park

Let’s start with the most memorable – the Dining Room at Crater Lake Lodge. The park website recommends making advance reservations. So we made ours several months ahead of time. Just in case. Since we were staying at the lodge sooner than anticipated, we chatted with the host and found that we could make a dinner reservation 24 hours in advance.

At dinnertime, we were seated by a window with a view of Crater Lake. After asking for a recommendation because of my dairy allergy, I ordered the Citrus Herb Chicken with veggies and wild rice. The waitress was helpful and accommodating. My meal was nicely seasoned and felt healthy, but it wasn’t amazing. Travis got Pacific Crest Trail pasta, with lemon cream sauce and salmon, which he really enjoyed. He also took advantage of the lodge’s small rotating list of craft beers on tap.

The following day, we were out hiking Mount Scott, Plaikni Falls, and the Pinnacles, so we hadn’t made a dinner reservation. Thankfully, guests can grab salad, soup, and appetizers on the balcony overlooking Crater Lake, and in the Great Hall (just outside the lodge’s main dining room). We chose to eat inside.

I asked for a wedge salad with salmon, which came with a delicious, creamy dressing. We both ordered soup of the day. Today it was wild rice with carrots, celery, mushrooms, and chicken broth. It was savory and hearty with a well-developed flavor. It looked like nothing, but it was some of the best soup I’ve ever had.

Travis ordered the BLT flatbread, which came topped with a healthy portion of greens. It was like a BLT and a pizza had a baby. He also ordered a Rogue Pendleton Pale Ale, which arrived in a Crater Lake National Park themed can. All the food and drinks we had were delicious. In fact, I preferred the food in the Great Hall.

The Great Hall has a more casual vibe compared to the dining room. Someone requested that the gas fireplace be turned on; it didn’t put out much heat, but added to the room’s ambiance. We enjoyed a cozy dinner on the couch.

The lodge restaurant also offers breakfast, so we decided to try it one morning. I had to order a la carte due to my dietary restriction, but there were many options and the wait staff was helpful once again. All in all, we greatly enjoyed the food at Crater Lake Lodge and highly recommend it.

Now let’s chat about some restaurants in the park that were memorable for a different reason. Crater Lake’s other two eateries were also operated by then concessionaire, Xanterra. The first is Annie Creek Restaurant, near Mazama Campground. It’s a casual sit down restaurant that we visited on our first night in the park.

There were many open tables, but we waited for about half an hour to be seated. I ordered a Monster Burger, without cheese, and a gluten free bun (since the regular bun contained milk). Travis ordered a pulled pork sandwich with pickles and red onion.

After another long wait, the waitress came by to apologize for the delay. She pointed to a man, and said that my dairy-free burger had mistakenly been served to him. The man eyed his food strangely, as he clearly hadn’t been told about the mix-up. The waitress offered me a complimentary trip to the salad bar, which I greatly appreciated.

After grabbing a bowl of soup, a burger was waiting for me at the table. But it was covered in mushrooms, and not what I had ordered. At this point, I just ate it, but requested some avocado, the only topping I could remember that I should have gotten. The burger was just okay, and the bun fell apart since it was a low-quality gluten free bun (and we’ve had tasty gluten free bread), but at least I didn’t get charged for the avocado or salad bar. Travis’s pulled pork sandwich was decent.

The other restaurant in the park is Rim Village Café. This place is more of a grab-n-go cafeteria, with food items sitting in fridges and under heat lamps. It’s nothing special, and expensive for what you get. We ended up paying $31 for two hot dogs, a cookie, yogurt, soda, and a fruit cup. Needless to say, we only went there once during our visit.

Restaurants Outside the Park

Establishments outside the park are spread out, so it takes time to get to them. Since we stayed one night at Diamond Lake Resort, we dined at the restaurant there. We ordered burgers; the food took forever to get to us, and was cold and tasteless. We did have a decent view of the lake to take our minds off the food, though.

We visited Beckie’s Cafe twice, and enjoyed quality food and service both times. Located on the west side of Crater Lake, Beckie’s has been around since 1926 and is known for its pie. We got a cheesesteak and a club sandwich, each with a side salad. I got an Angry Orchard cider (to make up for the salad), pretty standard but no complaints from me! They had a few local craft beers on draft, too.

The second time we visited, we had the same waitress who recognized us, and was friendly and helpful given my dairy allergy. She offered us an awkward high table next to the bar, which we happily accepted in lieu of waiting. This time we each got a Hunter Burger (no cheese on mine) with a fried egg and chipotle mayo with fries. The bun fell apart a bit, but it was still delicious.

A visit to Beckie’s wouldn’t be complete without trying the pie. Except I couldn’t eat it since it had dairy. Travis tried the peach and chocolate pie (on different visits) and they were both tasty. His favorite – chocolate – was rich, smooth, and silky with a light and fluffy whipped cream.

Overall, we were most impressed with Beckie’s Cafe and Crater Lake Lodge’s restaurant and Great Hall. Skip everything else and bring some canned tuna.

Places

• Crater Lake Lodge | 570 Rim Village Dr, Oregon 97604
  • Dining Room
• Diamond Lake Resort | 350 Resort Dr, Diamond Lake, OR 97731
• Annie Creek Restaurant | 569 Mazama Village, Crater Lake Hwy, OR 97604
• Rim Village Cafe and Gift Shop | 42.9110909, -122.1490059
• Beckie’s Cafe | 56484 OR-62, Prospect, OR 97536

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There are no restaurants or lodging (aside from campgrounds) in Redwood National & State Parks. In 2010, Redwood Hostel, previously the only lodging in the park, closed. And in 2019, the hostel building is set to be demolished. Crescent City is near the northern part of the park, and Klamath and Orick are to the south. Even further south are the towns of Arcata and Eureka.

Restaurants in Crescent City

When visiting a park, I often drag my wife to nearby breweries. If I like the beer enough, I’ll buy a pint glass souvenir. In this case, I had SeaQuake Brewing in Crescent City in mind. We decided to visit after our Redwood Creek backpacking trip, so we were starving. I got pizza with a chocolate porter and Kristin got fresh fish tacos. I enjoyed my pizza a lot, but Kristin thought the fish tacos were dry and desperately needed a sauce. The beer was good, but didn’t wow me. We did enjoy the casual atmosphere there.

A couple days later, I convinced Kristin to go back to SeaQuake. I really wanted to like it – enough to get a pint glass. This time, I got a 9.2 burger with parmesan fries and Kristin got a Thai chicken salad. This time we both liked our food. Kristin’s salad had an assortment of vegetables, crunchy noodles, and spicy peanut dressing. I got two half pints of beer, a blonde ale and coastal pale ale, which were okay, but felt forgettable. So we left, me without a pint glass. The place was packed both times and we had to wait, so maybe I’m missing something.

We went to Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant for dinner one night, while staying at Jedediah Smith Campground. Kristin ordered a torta with pork al pastor, guacamole, mayo, onion, lettuce, and tomato, which she loved. It looked like a simple sandwich, but its sweet and spicy flavors and variety of textures made it great.

I got a chimichanga platter, but thought it was one-note and nothing special. Service was a bit strange, as different servers kept coming by our table, but they were friendly. When Kristin mentioned her dairy allergy, they were very accommodating.

For breakfast the next morning, we went to Hiouchi Cafe, which is only three minutes from Jedediah Smith Campground. The waitress was friendly as she took our order. I ordered Grandma’s French Toast, which piqued my interest as a cinnamon lover. It was good but basic – and it needed more cinnamon! My bacon was kinda rubbery too.

Kristin’s dairy allergy prevented her from ordering the breakfast meals, so she ordered eggs, sausage, hash browns, avocado, and tomatoes a la carte. Some items looked okay, but the avocado was very brown, and she was surprised they served it that way. I wanted to like Hiouchi Cafe – it sounded tasty and was highly rated. But for $30, what we got wasn’t worth it.

Restaurants in Orick

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Snack Shack. This outdoor roadside joint is located in Orick, California, near Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center and the southern section of the park. With limited parking and picnic benches, some of which are shaded by umbrellas, it was one of our favorite restaurants of the trip.

Snack Shack mainly serves burgers, hotdogs, and burritos. As we ordered, a Redwood Park Ranger picked up her order, so we figured it must be good! I got the Baby Bigfoot Burger: bacon, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and pepper jack cheese. And tots. And a chocolate milkshake.

Kristin got the Hawaiian Burger, which came with pineapple and bbq sauce, and a huge order of fries. Our meal was a bit greasy, but so tasty. The milkshake was rich, thick, smooth, and chocolatey. While Snack Shack has a seemingly “fast food” vibe, our food took a while to arrive.

Snack Shack is open until 7pm, and we wished it was open later. Also, there’s no restroom, so plan ahead. There aren’t many places to eat near southern Redwood N&SP, so we highly recommend it if you’re looking for some casual-yet-delicious roadside burgers.

Accommodations Near the Park

For campgrounds in the park, check out Gold Bluffs Beach Campground and Jedediah Smith Campground.

Lighthouse Inn in Crescent City is relatively affordable, and conveniently located along highway 101. Close to the park, and at just over $100 a night, our standard room was actually quite large. Our bed was a bit springy, which made it hard to sleep. The hotel was clean, and staff was friendly.

Breakfast consisted of basics: bagels, oatmeal, hard boiled eggs, cereal, and cake (breakfast of champions). There was no hot food, unless you toasted some bread, but it got us going in the morning. They had a washer and dryer, so we took the opportunity to clean our clothes ($1.50 a load). Some of the nautical themed decor in the hotel wasn’t quite our taste, but it was an affordable place to stay.

Places

• SeaQuake Brewing | 400 Front St, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant | 297 US-101, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Cafe | 2095 Hwy 199, Hiouchi, CA 95531
• Snack Shack | 120779 US-101, Orick, CA 95555
• Lighthouse Inn | 681 Highway 101 South, Crescent City, CA 95531

Interactive Map

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Our journey to Isle au Haut began in Bar Harbor, where we had just gone kayaking and checked out of Blackwoods Campground.  We headed to Stonington, a small town on Deer Isle off the Maine coast.  Stonington is the “gateway” to Isle au Haut, since a mail boat travels between the two.  It’s an easy 1.5 hour drive to Stonington from Bar Harbor.  There aren’t many grocery store options in or close to Stonington, so we grabbed everything we needed along the way at a Walmart.

Stonington

We planned to stay in Stonington for one night, before catching the mail boat to Duck Harbor the next morning.  Our lodging for the night was at Boyce’s Motel, a quaint spot on the coast, that we would heartily recommend.   The room was small, but it was clean and well-maintained.  The price was right, and our room even had a fridge to store some goodies for our trip.

Since we desperately needed to do laundry, the proprietor of Boyce’s pointed us toward Island Laundromat on Deer Isle, about 10 minutes from Stonington.  Bring quarters!  We also brought detergent in single-use boxes, but there is a machine that will dispense some as well.  Check the hours – it isn’t open very late.  If you go, set aside extra time, and be aware that the machines are pretty old.  Some of our clothes were sopping wet after the wash cycle, and needed additional dryer time.  It was a bit annoying, but in the end the laundromat served its purpose.  We stopped by the laundromat again after returning from Isle au Haut.

Next stop: dinner.  There aren’t many restaurant choices in Stonington (surprise!), but we had researched options beforehand using Yelp and other sources.  We didn’t know quite what to expect, but we decided to check out Fisherman’s Friend, a restaurant located on the pier and walkable from Boyce’s.  K got the fish tacos, which were amazing. She really liked the remoulade sauce, and she ordered extra (naturally). I got the fish and chips, which were good too.  They have outdoor seating, but we ate inside since it was a bit chilly that evening. We had a partial view of the pier from our table.  Also, they had hard cider and a decent selection of craft beers, which was a nice treat.  Overall, good food and service, and decent prices. K says, GET THE FISH TACOS!!! (Note: Fisherman’s Friend is now closed, and will be re-opening as Stonecutter’s Kitchen).

A few days later, we wanted to eat here again after returning from Isle Au Haut, but found out that they were closed on Wednesdays.  Instead, we went down the street to Harbor Cafe.  The food was simple but surprisingly good.  K got the fried haddock sandwich, and I had the turkey club.  Both meals came with fries.  The hostess and server was both very friendly.  The beer selection was limited, but overall, this was what we needed after 3 days of camping.  A piece of blueberry pie didn’t hurt either.

After our dinner at Fisherman’s Friend, we wandered around town, taking photos and enjoying the atmosphere of a quintessential Maine fishing town.  We also wanted to locate the mail boat dock, since we planned to arrive there early the next day.  We eventually found it, only 0.2 miles from Boyce’s.  Stonington was a highlight of our trip; it is a relaxing, quaint town that we’ll remember for a long time.

The Mail Boat to Isle au Haut

We woke up early the next morning to catch the mail boat at 8:00 am.  We made some oatmeal, packed up our gear, and headed to the dock to get there at least 30 minutes ahead of time.  Originally, our boat was supposed to leave at 10:30 am, but the company switched the times due to problems with one of their boats.  Thankfully, the National Park Service had emailed us a few weeks ahead of time to notify us of the change.  The earlier departure time was actually a boon in the end since we had fewer people on our boat (more groups arrived on the afternoon boat).

After getting out the door, we drove to the nearest convenience store (next to Fisherman’s Friend) to get ice for our cooler.  Our fresh food properly refrigerated, we drove to the Isle au Haut Mail Boat dock.  There, we bought two roundtrip boat tickets for $40 each – you can’t reserve them in advance.  We were then directed to park our car on the dock, where we could leave it for three nights.  The dock had a cart that we used to load our luggage onto the boat.  And we were ready to hit the waves and head to Isle au Haut!

At this point, we were the only ones at the dock.  By the time the boat left, one other couple had arrived to make the journey with us.  But that was it, so it was a quiet ride.  The boat set off from the dock, and we were on our way.  Our boat passed enumerable little rocky islands, many with trees, some with houses, all surrounded by lobster traps.  We took endless photos, but at some point we just relaxed and enjoyed the scenery.

After about an hour, the first stop was Isle au Haut Town on the northern end of the island.  We could have departed here, and backpacked the approximately 4.0 miles to the campground, but had chosen to go directly there.  We would visit the town later on a dayhike during our stay.  The other couple got off here, so we were now the lone passengers for the remainder of the ride to Duck Harbor.

It’s a quick 20 minute boat ride to Duck Harbor from the town.  Along the way, we saw Robinson Point Lighthouse – a beautiful sight on the rocky coast.  The captain of our boat informed us that you can actually stay there at Keeper’s House Inn… for $450 a night!  That’s a bit beyond what we’d be willing to pay personally, but would make for a neat stay.  Soon we rounded Eben’s Head, a rocky outcropping just before Duck Harbor.  And there, at last, was the Duck Harbor Landing pier!  Several people were waiting there, including a Park Ranger who would greet us, and other visitors waiting to take the boat back to Stonington.

Places:
Isle au Haut Mailboat | 37 Seabreeze Ave, Stonington, ME 04681
Boyce’s Motel | 44 Main St, Stonington, ME 04681
Fisherman’s Friend/Stonecutter’s Kitchen  | 5 Atlantic Ave, Stonington, ME 04681
Harbor Cafe | 36 Main St, Stonington, ME 04681 | Open 6 AM to 8:30 PM
Island Laundromat | 44.21609, -68.68925 (There’s no address that I could find) | Open 8 AM to 6 PM

References:
NPS Isle au Haut
Wikipedia Isle au Haut
Isle au Haut 2014 Visitor Use Management Plan

Maps:
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

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Bar Island Trail

Bar Island, north of Bar Harbor, is part of Acadia National Park. If you find Bridge Street in downtown Bar Harbor, then head north, you’ll make your way to the edge of the ocean and see the island about a third of a mile away. And if you come when it’s low tide… you can walk across to the island!

I used a tidepools app on my phone to tell when we could cross the sandbar, and there are charts posted in Bar Harbor and online.  Luckily, it was low tide when we got to Bar Harbor, and after a quick calculation, we determined that we had enough time to walk to the island, and return before the tide came in. We were anxious to explore Bar Harbor, but the short hike on Bar Island came first.

The trail starts at the end of Bridge Street, and crosses the sandbar. We wandered around the bar, leisurely crossing while snapping photos and examining everything. Seaweed was everywhere, and we found little crabs and other critters in the tide pools. See what you can find as you explore! Some people drive over the bar, so watch out for cars. I recommend walking, it’s part of the experience.

After walking across the bar, we got to the beach on Bar Island. There’s a trail that continues onto the island and goes up a gradual incline. Along the trail we saw some gorgeous purple lupine that was begging to be photographed. Eventually, we reached a fork in the path. We didn’t explore the area to the right, but it goes to the site of the former home of Journalist Jack Perkins who sold the property (and about half of the island) to the NPS in 2003.  We turned left to continue to the summit. At the top was a rock cairn (which K climbed), and a great view of Bar Harbor. That’s pretty much the end of the trail, so we headed back the way we came. As we crossed the sandbar, we noticed that the water had receded even further.

We definitely recommend this trail; it’s a great introduction to the park. And it’s an easy trail, good for families with young kids, who would probably love exploring the tide pools as much as we did. Later in our trip, we went back during high tide, and looked across the water to the island. It was great to reminisce about going across, and seeing the difference when the tide was high.

Bar Island | 1.7 miles out and back | Easy
Elevation Change: 165 feet
Parking: The trail is accessed from the northern end of Bridge Street. Plenty of parking, e.g. along West Street (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Ensure that it’s low tide, then continue from Bridge Street onto the sandbar.  Continue about 0.3 miles along the bar until you reach Bar Island.  Once there, you’ll see a trail that continues inland.  This trail will go for about 0.3 miles, and then you’ll come to a fork in the path.  Take the left fork for 0.2 miles to the summit for good views of Bar Harbor.  Go back the way you came to return to Bar Harbor.
Highlights: Walking along tidepools, views from island, good for kids (easy hike, wildlife habitat)
Notes: Only accessible 1.5 hours before and after low tide, so plan ahead and make sure you give yourself enough time to explore and get back safely.

References:
Bar Island Wikipedia
Bar Island Trail Map PDF
Tide Chart of Bar Harbor

Bar Harbor

We really enjoyed Bar Harbor. It’s totally laid back, and has a ton of restaurants and shops. And of course, it has beautiful views since it’s located right on the water. There’s so much to write about Bar Harbor, but we’ll focus primarily on the restaurants we visited. Make sure you explore, grab some good food and drinks, and just relax after hitting the trail for the day. If you’re in need of any outdoor gear, make sure to stop by Cadillac Mountain Sports too – we stopped here several times to restock on a energy bars, canister fuel, etc. while in the area.

K also found a few shops she liked – she tried on some dresses at It’s a ME Thing and Patrick’s By the Sea, and Fair Trade Winds had soaps, trinkets, and other gift items that she enjoyed checking out.

Lodging

Quality Inn, Bar Harbor
40 Kebo St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We also want to mention the first hotel we stayed in. We stayed in a room with two queen beds, in a “cabin” of sorts rather than the main building. It was simple, affordable, and cozy, with friendly service. And one of the best hotel breakfasts we’ve had, with many options, including fresh seasonal Maine blueberries. It was very quiet, but just a short walk away from downtown Bar Harbor. We highly recommend it, and plan to stay here for more than one night when we visit Acadia again.

Restaurants

Mainely Meat & Atlantic Brewing
15 Knox Rd, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

This BBQ and Brewery is located outside of downtown Bar Harbor, but is definitely worth a visit.  It’s the only craft brewery on MDI, and they have great beer. Atlantic Brewing has another location in downtown Bar Harbor, but we didn’t want to miss the BBQ which the downtown location lacks.  Most restaurants in town will at least have one Atlantic Brewing beer on tap (hopefully more!).

When you visit this brewery, you’ll get a free tasting of a selection of beers. Blueberry Ale, Coal Porter, and Ellen’s Coffee Stout were my favorites. I really wish I had been able to try out all of the beers (someday, Island Ginger…). So make sure you grab a pint or two when in Bar Harbor. There’s also a small gift shop at the brewery, where I bought an Atlantic Brewing pint glass for my collection of breweries near National Parks.

Beer goes great with food, so it’s natural that they’d have a BBQ joint on-site for their Knox Road location (the downtown Bar Harbor one does not). We sat outdoors, in a super casual setting. The waitstaff was friendly and helpful, and the BBQ was very good! I got a sampler plate, with pulled pork, ribs, chicken, sausage, and all sides (BBQ beans, slaw, and potato salad). Washed down with a Blueberry Ale. K got a full plate of ribs, which were tender and flavorful, and also came with all 3 sides. The ribs were definitely the star of the show, though I liked the pulled pork too.

Sidestreet Café
49 Rodick St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We visited this restaurant on our first night in Bar Harbor. And it was pretty good – solid American-style food and drinks and decent service. Only problem was I ordered an Atlantic Brewing Blueberry Ale here, and got a different beer. I thought something was off when the beer seemed too hoppy for a fruit ale. Another clue was when the guy next to me got a beer with blueberries in the bottom, which was a nice touch.  The waitress was very apologetic, and she brought me a sample since I didn’t feel like drinking a second pint.

Finback Alehouse
30 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We really liked Finback. It was an impromptu decision, between Finback and the Thirsty Whale (which we regret we didn’t go to). Finback has a diverse selection of food and a great variety of drinks. I ended up with a Finback Local Pulled Pork sandwich which was amazing, while K had Island Fish Tacos. K thought the fish tacos were very good, but not quite as good as the fish tacos that she got in Stonington at Fisherman’s Friend. We were really impressed by the service too – the waitress made a phone call to double-check the ingredients (K is allergic to milk) and brought K the blueberry pie she had been craving.

Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast
15 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

There are quite a few breakfast places in Bar Harbor, so we had to check out at least one. And Jeannie’s was the pick, mainly because they had vegan friendly options for K. We were starving when we got here, since we had just gone on a kayaking trip. The food? It was good, I got blueberry pancakes and K got some vegan pancakes that were covered with pecans. This added a lot of texture and I think the vegan pancakes may have been even better than the regular ones. They had an amazingly good strawberry rhubarb jam on the table; we went through most of the jar during our breakfast. The only downside to this place was the service. Actually, it was our waitress that was not the best. The hostess and other waiters/waitresses seemed fine (and even brought us water when we ran out…), but ours just didn’t seem to have a care in the world about us.

Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream
325 Main Street, Bar Harbor, ME 04609
7 Firefly Lane, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

I really wanted to like this place, but it was just okay. We had read reviews indicating that it was amazing, but in the end we were both let down. My peanut butter ice cream was good, but K’s strawberry sorbet was mediocre. It was icy and the flavor didn’t stand out. There are two locations in Bar Harbor, and they do have very interesting flavors that you don’t normally see, so you could check it out just for that.

CJ’s Big Dipper Ice Cream
150 Main St #1, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We kind of stumbled onto this place while walking around. A sign out front proclaimed that they had dairy-free soy ice cream – which was a win for K. The service was a bit odd, they try to rush everyone along to make a decision and weren’t super friendly. And they wouldn’t let K get more than one flavor in the small size, which again, was odd. But the ice cream was delicious, including the soy version, so if you’re okay with some less-than-great service and/or have a dairy allergy, this is a good place to go.

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