Our hiking journey in Japan had been challenging due to Typhoon Prapiroon. It prevented us from summiting both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake. Though disappointed, we were still optimistic about our longest and most-anticipated hike to Mount Yari (槍ヶ岳, Yarigatake) in Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen). We had planned a three-day, 32.6 km (20.3 mi) trek, staying in mountain huts along the way. Our one-way route took us from Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), to Mount Yari, then to Shinhotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉). Thankfully, this trip turned out better than both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake.

Planning: Route

When researching where to hike in Japan, we stumbled upon Kamikochi – a scenic mountainous region within Chubusangaku National Park. Subsequent searching led to Mount Yari. The mountain is named after the Japanese word for “spear,” as the tip of the mountain looks rather sharp. Mount Yari is 3,180 meters (10,433 feet) tall and is the fifth tallest mountain in Japan.

The timing of our trip was important. Mt. Yari can get crowded, especially from mid-July through August. This is especially due to schools letting out for summer break. When we went in early July, it was significantly less crowded. However, we also had to consider the impact of the rainy season (early June through mid-July), which turned out to be significant.

There are multiple routes to the top of Mount Yari. A popular route is a loop from Kamikochi to Mount Yari, and then to Mount Hotaka (穂高岳, Hotaka-dake). It’s often called the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit. We were interested in it, but were put off by the section between Yari and Hotaka called the Daikiretto which means “big cut” in Japanese. It’s extremely steep and dangerous (people die there every year), with exposed ascents and descents. While I was intrigued, Kristin was not open to that option. Probably for the best, considering the wet weather we encountered.

Instead, we decided on a one-way route that started in Kamikochi and ended in Shinhotaka Onsen. Our trip would be three days and two nights, and we planned to stay in mountain huts along the trail. Each day of the journey would be strenuous, especially the second and third days. In early July, there was still a chance that we’d have to hike across snow fields. Just in case, we brought some inexpensive crampons, which (spoiler alert) came in handy.

Planning: Accommodations

Most mountain huts in Chubusangaku National Park provide meals and overnight accommodations. This meant we wouldn’t need to bring a tent, sleep system, or cooking gear. Sleep arrangements are typically dormitory style with wide bunks, though sometimes private rooms are available. If you prefer to camp, there are also campgrounds along the route.

Some mountain huts require reservations, but the ones we chose in 2018 did not. But, as of 2020, they now require reservations. These can be made online, even if you can’t speak Japanese. There are many lodges other than the ones we picked, so you can really customize a trip however you choose. Campgrounds typically don’t require reservations.

As of summer 2024, Yarisawa Lodge and Yarigatake Sanso cost ￥15,500 (~$100) per person per night for accommodations and three meals (dinner, breakfast, and to-go bento). The price can be reduced by forgoing some of the meals. An extra ￥12,000 (~$80) will get you a small private room. Mountain hut pricing differs, so be sure to bring yen regardless of the cost. Credit cards are not usually accepted.

To conclude our hike, we made a reservation at Yarimikan in the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. We wanted to experience an onsen, and Yarimikan has private baths. An onsen seemed like a great spot to relax after our 3-day journey.

Planning: Maps

English hiking maps of Japan are difficult to find. So, we bought Japanese maps and made it work. We had both paper and electronic maps. For paper maps, we got Mapple Map #40 from Amazon Japan for ￥1320 (~$10), which detailed the surrounding area. The map shipped quickly, and is good waterproof quality, though the NatGeo maps in the US are tougher. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”

As far as electronic maps, we downloaded Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) from Android Play. It’s free to install the app, then you purchase the specific map(s) you’re looking for. It provides an electronic version (same as Mapple’s paper version), plus you can see your location on it. We appreciated having both the paper and electronic versions, just in case.

After opening the app, you’re greeted by a “sign” with three options. The first option will go to your purchased maps (there’s a free sample map). At the bottom of that screen is a button that allows you to select other maps to purchase. Clicking on any of the maps leads to a product page where you can see more information. At the bottom of that page is a button that you click to buy that map. Currently, each electronic map costs $4.49.

Generally Japanese trails themselves don’t have names like they do in the United States. Instead, trail signs point to the destination at each intersection. So, we would follow trail signs to Mt. Yari. Similarly, Japanese trail maps don’t list distances. Instead, they list the approximate time from intersection to intersection in both directions. I can appreciate that, but I’d rather have the distance since hikers move at different speeds.

To help other travelers, we created a map for this hike in English and Japanese. Hopefully it helps if you’re planning a similar trip. Use at your own discretion, but we tried our best to make it helpful. We were given an English map when we got to the park, but it wasn’t as detailed or extensive as we would have liked, so we didn’t rely on it. Instead, we used the Mapple ones.

Planning: Gear

When we climbed Yarigatake in early July, there were still some snow fields. Just in case, we had brought crampons with us. And we were glad we had them, though we saw some climbers not using them. We also used trekking poles, and recommend doing so regardless of when you hike due to large elevation gains and losses. The snow fields would likely be greatly reduced by late July.

Due to snow melt, there were streams everywhere and it was easy to find water. We brought our Sawyer Squeeze water filter and found it helpful. Water is also available at huts. Generally, unless you stayed at a particular hut, you would need to purchase your water.

Since we were staying at huts, we didn’t need a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, or cooking gear. This lightened our load considerably. We brought smaller backpacks – an Osprey Kestrel 38 for me, and Osprey Kyte 36 for Kristin. We both brought a rain jacket and rain pants, which were helpful. We also had small umbrellas which seemed like a strange item to bring on a backpacking trip, but turned out to be invaluable in this case.

Most of our snacks were brought from the United States, but we augmented our stash with Japanese ones too. It was fun trying different things that aren’t available at home. The mountain huts took care of breakfast, lunch, and dinner. For lunch, we requested a bento from the hut, which we’d eat on the trail. That made it simpler and easier than packing our own lunches. Mountain huts also sell snacks, though they’re understandably expensive.

Day 0 – Arriving at Kamikochi

On Friday we arrived at Kamikochi, and tried to determine whether our Mt. Yari trip would be possible given the typhoon. We went to the nearby information center to ask. The workers there were super helpful, and told us there was currently an impassable stream on the stretch from Mt. Yari to Shinhotaka Onsen. Bummer. We hoped that the weather would improve, but it continued to rain the rest of the day.

On Saturday, we inquired again and were told the same thing. Sunday was when we would be starting our backpacking trip. Conflicted, we headed back to Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (西糸屋山荘, Nishi Itoya Sansō), where we were staying in Kamikochi. We requested another night there, since we had decided not to hike Mount Yari.

Instead, one of the staff tried to convince us to hike Yari. He showed us the forecast, which was not great for our first day, but seemed to be good for the following days. The man was a guide who had done the hike to Yari multiple times. We went back and forth, but in the end, he convinced us to go for it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right? Plus, this might be our only chance to do this hike. We made the right call, as the trip was fabulous. Thanks to the staff member at Nishi-ito-ya who got us to reconsider!

Day 1 – Leaving Kamikochi

Nishi-ito-ya in Kamikochi is a great lodge, and the staff was so friendly. Before leaving, we sent our luggage to Yarimikan via Takyubin. It’s a very handy luggage forwarding service that we used multiple times while in Japan. Leaving Nishi-ito-ya, we headed north along the path, past Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi) on our right. We decided to travel along the north side of the Azusa River so we could visit Myojin Pond (明神池, Myojinike) and Hotaka Shrine. It added about 15 minutes to our hike (compared to taking the path south of the river), but we didn’t want to miss these spots.

The rain continued as we walked along the river. Everything was drenched, but people were still out exploring. We were able to use our umbrellas, as the trail was fairly wide. Before long, we came upon Dakesawa Marsh (sometimes translated as Takezawa), which has a boardwalk. The area was flooded, but thankfully the water was still below the boardwalk. It’s beautiful, and the rain almost enhanced its beauty. And I’m a sucker for boardwalks and marshes.

After the marsh, we continued walking over bridges and past roaring streams. All the rushing streams head toward the Azusa river. We came upon an area with wide boardwalks along the river. At this point we saw how high the river had gotten based on it’s height compared to the trees. It was kind of daunting, as the rain continued to fall.

Day 1 – Myojin Pond

The rain started picking up even more as we reached a gravel road. We walked on it for a short time before getting onto another trail which ran parallel to the road. Eventually though, part of the trail was closed due to the high water, so we had to hike on the road. A truck trundled past us, and eventually we reached Myojin Pond and Hotaka-Okumiya Shrine. Part of the shrine is free to access, and you can pay ¥500/person to access Myojin Pond. We decided to pay the extra fee, bought a nice charm, and got our goshuin stamped. The pond is very serene and picturesque, and we were glad we got to see it. However we aren’t convinced it was worth the price we paid. The shrine is a branch of the main Hotaka Shrine, which is near Matsumoto.

Near Hotaka-Okumiya shrine is a small lodge called Kamonji-Goya. It was almost time for lunch, so we took a look at the menu, but nothing struck our fancy. The restaurant is actually quite famous, but we didn’t know that until later. At Myojin Bridge, we crossed the Azusa River. There were some free port-a-potties at the bridge too, if you’re in need of a restroom. On the other side of the bridge is a lodge called Myojinkan, where we hoped to get lunch.

It was still raining (surprise!). We avoided puddles, and saw people here and there. We arrived at Myojinkan – it’s a nice hut with a good selection of food and an English language menu (with pictures). I ordered the gyudon and Kristin got some tempura udon. Both were solid. We also grabbed a C.C. Lemon, one of our favorite Japanese soft drinks, from a nearby vending machine. Most vending machines in Kamikochi seemed to have it.

Leaving Myojinkan, we got out our umbrellas again. The next section is a flat, easy hike along the river. As we hiked, the rain started tapering off. And before we knew it, the sun started peeking out! We were overjoyed. It was the first time we saw the sun in four days. Invigorated, we continued on, enjoying views of mountains and the river. Along this section is a small pond called Furuike (古池, Old Pond), which is beautifully clear and mirror-like due to incoming spring water.

Day 1 – Tokusawa and Yokoo-Sanso

After crossing a stream that flows into the Azusa River, we entered a wooded area. From a distance, we spotted Tokusawa Lodge and went to check it out. There, we took a quick snack break. Shortly after, we passed free bathrooms, Tokusawa Campground, and Tokusawa-en Lodge. Past the Tokusawa area, we encountered mostly rolling hills where the trail is wide and follows the river. Eventually the trail narrows, and we passed a beautiful suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) that heads back across the river. We didn’t cross it, but couldn’t resist taking some photos.

We reached Yokoo-Sanso, the last lodge before Yarisawa, and noticed restrooms and a campground nearby. Checking our map, we saw that we were about 1 hour and 40 minutes away from Yarisawa. We weren’t sure whether to trust the time on the map, but it was 3:30 p.m., and dinner is served at Yarisawa at 5:00 p.m. I went into Yokoo-Sanso and asked the staff to call Yarisawa and let them know we’d be late. We wouldn’t get the usual dinner, instead it will be dehydrated curry, but we were okay with that (and we didn’t have a choice).

Confident that we’d be able to get some dinner that night, we grabbed another C.C. Lemon from a vending machine and continued on. The wide level path becomes more of a hiking trail here. It narrows, becomes rocky, and the trail starts to ascend significantly for the first time. As the trail took us closer to the river, we could see the beautiful rushing water. The air around us cooled, and we could see our breath.

The trail continued ascending and we spotted a sign along the trail. With my basic Japanese language skills, I read “Ganbatte!” which means “do your best” in English. It was a nice motivator, and we knew we were getting close. 10 minutes later, we saw the lodge and celebrated.

Day 1 – Yarisawa Lodge

Checking into the Yarisawa Lodge, we paid for our three meals and accommodations. We decided not to spend extra money for a private room. The staff started making our dehydrated curry. Kristin had to get the vegetarian curry because the beef one had milk in it. She was glad that they were able to accommodate her dietary restriction.

While our food was being prepared, we checked out the dorm area. We had spots on a top bunk, and were relieved to see that we had the whole row to ourselves. That’s one benefit of visiting during the off season. There were other guests below and across from us. Only about 15 people were staying the night, and we appreciated that the staff spread the guests out for privacy. Next to our bunk was a small window that overlooked the river.

Yarisawa has a drying room, so we grabbed our wet gear from the morning and went to check it out. We headed downstairs, past the public bath (which is open briefly at a designated time) and restrooms. We opened the door and immediately felt the intense heat of the drying room. There were shelves, clips, and hangers everywhere. All our gear dried within a few hours, except for our boots which were soaked.

Our dinner was ready, so we went into the dining room and ate our curry and rice. It was pretty good! We were just happy to eat at that point, though we wondered what the regular meal had been like. After finishing up, we explored the hut, and decided to go to bed early. Many hikers in Japan wake up before dawn, and breakfast would start at 5:30 a.m.

The pillow was weird, and the futon not super comfortable, but we fell asleep quickly. At 4 a.m. we were awakened by our bunkmates below. They continually rustled their bags as they packed up to leave. Like plastic grocery bags. Rustle, rustle, rustle. For about 30 minutes before they left the lodge. Some hikers like to get a really early start. We just wished they had packed the night before.

Day 2 – Leaving Yarisawa

Around 6 a.m. the next morning, we went to the dining room to join 8 or so other guests that stayed for breakfast. Some hikers start their day early and have breakfast on the trail, but that wasn’t an option for us. Plus, we wanted the full mountain hut experience. Breakfast was simple but good: miso soup and rice, both served family style, as well as veggies, tea, and a small piece of fish. We talked to a few other guests, and learned that several other hikers were heading to Yarigatake too.

After breakfast, we picked up our lunch bento, packed up, and filled up our water bottles. We purchased a couple of overpriced snacks, and Kristin bought a souvenir bear bell. It was 7:30 a.m. when we headed out. Immediately outside Yarisawa was a telescope. Curious, we peered through it and saw a very sharp mountain peak – Mt. Yari (Yarigatake). It was distant, but we appreciated knowing that our destination was in sight. We’d be hiking 5.7 km (3.5 mi) and ascending 1396 meters (4580 feet) that day. And, finally, the weather was gorgeous!

Finally, the trail started to ascend. It was rocky but easy going. We continued until we reached a shelter area (we later learned it’s called Babadaira Campground) with a restroom. As we ascended, we started seeing beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and valley. Clear alpine streams rushed down the mountainside due to the melting snow. Sometimes these streams were running on the trail itself. We saw a few other hikers going the opposite direction, but otherwise it was a quiet trail.

Eventually we broke out our bentos to see what they were. They were large, rectangular onigiri with lotus root, egg, and veggies. We weren’t sure of all the ingredients, but it was delicious. Savory with a slight sweetness, it was the best bento that we got from a lodge/hut in Japan.

Day 2 – Across Snow Fields

After lunch, we reached the first of four snow fields. It was a bit scary, never having crossed them before. We had brought some cheap, probably not great quality, four-point crampons. We strapped them over our boots, went slow, and also relied on our trekking poles to cross the snow field. I wished we had brought some microspikes or better crampons, but we got across without issue. We saw other hikers that didn’t use any crampons, but…I’d still recommend bringing something. The first snow field was the shortest, while the snow fields at higher elevation were larger.

We crossed a longer snow field, then spotted a cave. Banryu (1786-1840), a Buddhist priest and the first known climber of Yarigatake (1828), stayed in this cave for 54 days, while chanting constantly. Inside the cave are a few Jizo statues. After leaving the cave, we came to our longest snow crossing, which we took slowly and carefully.

Eventually we started seeing boulders with numbers painted on them. Initially, we thought the numbers represented the hiking distance to the peak of Mt. Yari, or the elevation. However, we eventually realized it’s actually the elevation gain required to reach the top in meters. It was a nice measure of our progress, which gave us renewed energy. In the rock scramble sections, some rocks had large Xs and Os on them, indicating where to go (the Os) or avoid (the Xs), which was useful since the terrain wasn’t a defined path.

As we climbed higher, the spear-shaped peak of Yarigatake came into view again. Eventually, we spotted Yarigatake Sanso, just below the peak, where we would spend the night. It was a rough climb, but we eventually made it around 2:45 p.m. We were exhausted, but thrilled that we were finally there. Behind us were amazing views of the area we had just hiked through.

Day 2 – Summiting Yarigatake

At Yarigatake Sanso, we reserved our bunks and set our gear aside. Hikers can climb the peak of Yarigatake, situated just next to the lodge. We knew we wouldn’t have time the next day, so we decided to go ahead and do it. We had an hour or so before dinner, which turned out to be just enough time.

Climbing to the peak of Yari is not for the fainthearted. It’s a vertical climb aided by ladders, chains, and scrambling. I thought it was tons of fun, but Kristin thought it was scary. The routes up and down the peak are mostly separate, so you won’t run into people going the opposite direction. A few sections are combined, and hikers must be patient.

Making our way up the peak, we held onto the chains and ladders as we scrambled our way to just below the summit. From there, two ladders lead to the very top. Some climbers coming down mentioned that the ladders felt a bit loose. That was kind of scary to hear, but we proceeded and they seemed secure to us.

A small shrine sits at the summit (of course). The peak was shrouded in a dense fog. It was hard to see out any distance, but we did get a view of Yarisanso and glimpses of the surrounding mountains. After a few minutes, we carefully climbed back down. Here are more details about climbing the peak.

Day 2 – Dinner at Yarigatake Sanso

Back at Yarisanso, we were starving. Thankfully, it was dinner time! Unlike Yarisawa, we had arrived in plenty of time to eat. Everyone filed into the huge dining room. It could probably seat hundreds of people, though there were only about 15 guests. Nice thing about it not being peak season yet.

Sitting down at a table with others, we each had a plate of hamburger steak (hambagu) and veggies. As usual, rice and miso soup were served family style. There was another foreigner beside us, a solo British man, who was very nice. We also met and chatted with a Japanese woman who lives in Seattle. Everyone else appeared to be Japanese, and we talked with them as much as we could. A couple of guys even poured miso soup on their rice and told us it was “Japanese soul food.”

In the dining room, and the hut in general, there was a wonderful sense of camaraderie. We shared another C.C. Lemon (we’re addicted) from the vending machine. The machine also had beer, but I wasn’t feeling it (nor did it seem like the best choice for a multi-day hiking trip).

After dinner, we went upstairs to request a bento for the following day. We also inquired about the water crossing that we would reach the next day (it had been impassable for few days due to the typhoon). The staff showed us a photo of the area on an iPad. It was very hard to tell, but we thought it would be doable, so we continued with our original plan to hike to Shinhotaka Onsen. Not that we really had a backup in mind.

We went outside on the patio to take some more photos. The clouds had lifted a bit and we gazed out over the horizon. And what did we see? Mt. Fuji. It’s unmistakable due to its distinctive shape. Having been forced to abandon our plans of hiking it earlier in our trip, it was therapeutic to see it now.

We wanted to get to bed early. Our bunk was on the bottom this time, a welcome change compared with Yarisawa. Across the aisle, we spotted an older Japanese couple – our bunkmates from the previous night. Turns out they spoke some English and we had a nice conversation. And we felt a little bad that we complained about them rustling their bags early in the morning. We hope when we’re their age, we can still hike and backpack.

Day 3 – Leaving Yarigatake Sanso

We woke to the lovely sounds of bag rustling again at 4 a.m. After getting a bit more sleep, we got up around 6 a.m. We enjoyed a simple and tasty breakfast of salmon, veggies, egg, miso soup, and rice. Today would be the longest day; we would hike 12.1 km (7.5 mi) and descend 2093 meters (6867 feet). There would also be a water crossing of unknown difficulty. We were excited, but not sure how the trip would go, so we packed and headed out at 7:15 a.m.

Saying goodbye to the lodge, we headed through the adjacent campground. Its many sites are intricately laid out along and below the ridgeline, though only a few groups were using it. I was glad we stayed in the lodge. I’m not sure I trust the campground in high winds given that it’s so exposed – plus not having to bring a tent, sleeping bag, or meals is a huge advantage.

After leaving the campground, we came to an intersection. We turned right to head down the mountain. Straight would have taken us through the previously mentioned Daikiretto area. The weather was sunny and beautiful, but we didn’t see too many other hikers. Some had likely been put off by the recent weather. The trail is well defined, but steep with some loose slippery rocks in some places. Trekking poles were a necessity.

On the other side of Yari, the landscape seemed vastly different. We were surrounded by gorgeous snow-covered peaks. As we descended, we started seeing more lush green plant life. Fog rolled in, and we worried about the potential for rain, but thankfully it didn’t materialize.

Day 3 – Injuries and Lunch

Further down, we spotted some pretty wildflowers. We descended through an area with larger rocks, so we had to be careful. Suddenly, Kristin banged her knee, so I stopped to see how she was doing. She hit it pretty hard on a rock, and it was very painful. Thankfully she could still hike, but we needed to move at a slower pace.

I was hoping to get to Yarimikan, our onsen ryokan, by 17:00 (5:00 p.m.) for dinner. So we continued on, trying to hurry where we could. The area around us transitioned into a more lush, humid atmosphere that almost reminded me of a jungle. Pinked flags tied to trees sometimes marked our route.

We crossed a few streams, some of which swelled with rain water and were a bit tricky to cross. The area became more forested. Near an intersection, we passed a campground and arrived at Yaridaira Hut. It was a convenient spot to rest and grab a simple meal of udon and a C.C. Lemon. Kristin’s knee was still hurting, but manageable. Earlier we had also eaten our bento from Yarigatake Sanso, and while it was good, it wasn’t as good as the one from Yarisawa Lodge the previous day.

After finishing our meal, we continued. Concerned with time, I tried to hurry Kristin along. I moved faster to try to get her to move faster. But she could only go so fast with her knee. So we got angry with each other and barely talked for a couple hours. Eventually we apologized, and we both felt better. Part of hiking and marriage.

Day 3 – Streams and Dams

Eventually, we reached the stream that we had been warned about. It looked harder to cross than the picture we’d seen at Yarisanso. It took us 20 minutes to find a safe spot to cross without getting soaked or injured. As I landed on the other side, the rocks below me gave out. And…I banged up my leg. Poetic justice? But we got across eventually, and it turned out there were three separate crossings as the water flowed down the hill. As we were doing this, another hiker came along and hopped over everything in half the time it took us.

After the stream crossing, we made good time and reached a dry dam shortly after. Thinking the trail led right over it, we climbed down a ladder, crossed the dam, and climbed back up. We discovered that we went the wrong way though, as the trail actually goes below the dam. So we retraced our steps, curious why the dam was dry when everything else was overflowing.

On the other side of the dam, the trail became more of a fire road as we neared the end of our hike. A few streams flowed under the trail, and we passed several other dams. The terrain was gently descending at this point, so we made good time.

Passing by a lodge called Hotakadaira-goya, we immediately made a wrong turn. We continued along the “fire road,” but we should have taken a shorter trail that leads into the forest. We realized this further down the road, but we kept going since the road eventually meets back up with the other side of the trail. Eventually, we spotted the intersection with the trail. Since we missed the shortcut, we had to hike about an extra 1.0 km (0.6 mi).

Day 3 – Shinhotaka Onsen

A car passed by as we continued down the road, alongside the Gamada River. We also spotted several dams, and some buildings under construction. Soon, we stepped into the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. Thanks to Skype, we were able to call our ryokan, and they sent a shuttle. My limited Japanese and some English got the point across. Pro-tip: get a Japanese SIM card or pocket WiFi device so you can make calls.

The shuttle took us to a small, beautiful ryokan onsen called Yarimikan. We checked in, dropped our stuff in our room, and immediately went to take a bath. No one was in either the men’s or the women’s, so we had it all to ourselves. It’s a relaxing spot, with views of the Gamada River. Feeling refreshed, we headed to dinner. The meal was…disappointing. The service was slow, the food was nothing special, and they brought us one item at a time, so we couldn’t really enjoy our meal. Everything else about the onsen was amazing, but the food could’ve been better. Especially compared with other ryokans we visited.

After finishing our meal, we went to check out some of the private onsens. Our tired muscles enjoyed soaking and relaxing in the hot (almost too hot) water. Once finished, we returned to our room and passed out. The futon was the most comfortable one we had in Japan. We were glad, because we needed the rest after our 3-day adventure.

In the morning, we ate breakfast at Yarimikan (again, kinda disappointing) and checked out. The ryokan shuttle took us to the Shinhotaka Ropeway (HO65) bus stop. In a building next to the bus stop, we bought tickets from a machine for the Nohi Okuhida-Toyama bus route (note: this route seems to no longer exist, but there are other options). Prior reservations aren’t required. Our bus eventually arrived, a little late, and we were on our way to Toyama. From Toyoma, we headed into the northern part of Chubusangaku National Park, toward the Alpine Route.

Final Thoughts

Mount Yari was the highlight of our trip, with its stunning views, mountain huts, and solitude. Being surrounded by breathtaking mountains in Japan is unlike any experience we’ve had. It was also interesting culturally, since backpacking we’ve done in the US has been quite different. Our journey was nothing short of epic, and we hope to do more hiking in the region one day.

The route we planned worked well for us. The only issue was the descent on the last day. I wouldn’t recommend descending ~6000 feet in a day, but at the same time, I’m glad we didn’t take an extra day to hike down. Lastly, ending at Shinhotaka allowed us to relax in an onsen after the hike. If you want more adventure and don’t mind a potentially dangerous route, you might consider the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit.

Yarigatake is crazy busy in summer (mid-July through August), so I do recommend planning your trip during the off-season. We dealt with storms due to the rainy season though, so it’s a gamble. But we reaped the rewards with a mostly uncrowded route. So weigh what’s important to you. Fall might be another time to consider visiting.

If you’re considering this hike, there’s a list of helpful resources below. And if you have any questions or thoughts, feel free to leave a comment!

Backpacking Mount Yari (Yarigatake)

Date: Sunday, July 8, 2018 – Tuesday, July 10, 2018
Type: 2-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 32.6 km (20.3 mi) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +2060 meters (6759 feet), -2454 meters (8051 feet)

• Day 1 (Starting from Kappa Bridge):
  • Distance: 14.8 km (9.2 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 540 meters (1772 feet) gain, 225 meters (738 feet) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, including lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: Yarisawa Lodge
• Day 2 (Distance/Elevation includes climbing the peak of Mt. Yari):
  • Distance: 5.7 km (3.5 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1396 meters (4580 feet) gain, 136 meters (446 feet) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours to get to the lodge, including lunch and breaks. It took an additional 50 minutes to climb the peak of Mt. Yari.
  • Overnight: Yarigatake Sanso
• Day 3 (Ending at Shinhotaka Ropeway):
  • Distance: 12.1 km (7.6 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 124 meters (407 feet) gain, 2093 meters (6867 feet) loss
  • Time: 9 hours, including lunch and breaks
  • Overnight: Yarimikan in Shinhotaka Onsen

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections, markings painted on rocks: “O” (safe route), “X” (avoid)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, waterfalls, small ponds
Highlights: Views, wildlife, mountains, Japanese culture, lodges, wildflowers, snow, creeks, bridges, onsen
Directions to Kamikochi: Google Maps Directions
Notes: There are many route options; below is the one we did.

Trail Directions

• Day 1
  • 0.0 km / 0.0 mi – From Kappa Bridge in Kamikochi, head north on the gravel path along the river.
  • 0.2 km / 0.1 mi – Where the road and the path join briefly, bear right to stay on the path. A trail sign points toward “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 3.3 km. After about 5-10 minutes on the trail, you’ll enter Dakesawa Marsh via a boardwalk.
  • 0.7 km / 0.4 mi – Bear right at the intersection, following the sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 2.8 km. This section goes through the forest, crossing many bridges with views of the Azusa River on the right.
  • 2.4 km / 1.5 mi – Turn right when the trail intersects with the Chisan transport road. Follow the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 1.1 km.
  • 2.7 km / 1.7 mi – Turn right to get back on a walking trail, following the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.8 km. The trail runs parallel to the road along some boardwalk sections.
  • 3.5 km / 2.2 mi – Arrive at the Myojin Pond area. To see the shrine and pond, head left at the trail sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.1 km. Otherwise, continue straight toward Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.6 km / 2.2 mi – At the bridge, turn right to cross the Azusa River via Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.9 km / 2.4 mi – Arrive at Myojinkan Lodge, staying to the right of the building. At the T intersection with the main building, turn left. A trail sign points to 徳沢 (Tokusawa) in 3.4 miles.
  • 4.2 km / 2.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Tokugotoge Shimashimadani, toward Tokusawa-Yokoo.
  • 5.6 km / 3.5 mi – Pass by Furuike (Old Pond).
  • 6.8 km / 4.2 mi – Keep left at the intersection. However, if you want to take a break or explore, you could bear right toward Tokusawa Lodge. You’ll pass another intersection in a few minutes, which also leads to the lodge. Shortly after that, you’ll pass a bathroom, then Tokusawa Campground, and some lodges. Keep straight until you get to Michikusa Shokudo.
  • 7.1 km / 4.4 mi – Turn left at Michikusa Shokudo, another lodge.
  • 7.3 km / 4.5 mi – Keep right at the intersection, toward 横尾 (translated as Yokoo).
  • 8.0 km / 5.0 mi – Continue straight to “Yokoo-Karasawa-Yari” and pass a suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) on your left that crosses the Azusa River.
  • 10.7 km / 6.7 mi – Arrive at the Yokoo area, where there is a lodge, campground, and restrooms. Continue straight, with the lodge buildings on your right. A large bridge will be on your left. Follow the sign toward “槍ヶ岳”, or Yarigatake. After this point, the trail becomes more of a true hiking trail rather than a gravel path.
  • 14.8 km / 9.2 mi – Arrive at Yarisawa Lodge! Stay the night, and continue on the trail in the morning.
• Day 2
  • 16.7 km / 10.4 mi – Head left at the intersection with Minamata. Follow the sign toward Yarigatake.
  • 17.8 km / 11.1 mi – Bear right at the intersection (left leads to Mt. Minami and Tenguhara Junction).
  • 18.7 km / 11.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail that goes to Hutte Oyari. There’s a trail sign all in Japanese.
  • 19.2 km / 11.9 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail to Sessho Hyutte.
  • 19.3 km / 12.0 mi – Continue straight at another intersection that goes to Sessho Hyutte. Then, make the last push to Yarigatake Sanso.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Turn left at the intersection, and climb a short distance to arrive at Yarigatake Sanso! Check-in and relax.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Optionally, climb to the peak of Mt. Yari. From Yarigatake Sanso, head left out of the main doors toward the peak beside the lodge. At the base, a sign points to “The top of Mt. Yarigatake” in 0.2 mi. There are separate routes to ascend and descend. Follow the route to ascend with multiple chains and ladders.
  • 20.2 km / 12.6 mi – Climb the last ladder to the top, enjoy the view and shrine, then head back down along the descent route.
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Arrive back at Yarigatake Sanso.
• Day 3
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Exit Yarigatake Sanso, turn right, and pass the campground. You’ll pass a trail sign pointing to “Shinhotaka-onsen Spa” in 14.4 km, and “Mt. Hotaka-dake” in 9.0 km.
  • 20.7 km / 12.9 mi – Turn right at the intersection. A worn sign (in Japanese) is there, but it can be hard to read.
  • 22.0 km / 13.7 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.2 km / 15.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.3 km / 15.1 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past Yaridaira Goya mountain hut.
  • 25.7 km / 16.0 mi – Pass Takidani Junction, where there may be some stream crossings.
  • 27.9 km / 17.3 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past the dam. The trail becomes a gravel road.
  • 28.1 km / 17.5 mi – After the dam, continue straight past the intersection.
  • 30.5 km / 19.0 mi – Go past Hotakadaira-goya mountain hut. Locate the trail heading to the west, near the mountain hut. If you can’t find it, continue on the road (this is what we did) though it will take slightly longer.
  • 31.2 km / 19.4 mi – Turn left, back onto the road as the trail ends.
  • 32.6 km / 20.3 mi – Arrive in Shinhotaka Onsen and relax!

Maps

• Yarigatake to Shinhotaka Map (KNTP) – Map that we created, in English and Japanese. Thanks to HokkaidoWilds.com for information and directions. We did the best we could do to make this map, but please use at your own discretion.
• Mapple Map 40 (Amazon Japan) – Map is in Japanese, but has some English for specific features. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”
• Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) – Mapple App in Google Play Store to download and view digital maps (must purchase separately from paper maps).
• Northern Japan Alps Panorama-Ginza Hiking Map (Azumino City Tourist Association) – We got a paper version of this while in Japan, but this is a digital copy in English that you can view. Does not cover the area around Shinhotaka Onsen.

Links

• Kamikochi (上高地)
  • Kamikochi Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Kamikochi (English)
  • Chubu Sangaku National Park Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Chubu Sangaku National Park (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Chubu Sangaku (English)
  • Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (English) – Where we stayed in Kamikochi, highly recommended.
• Yarigatake and Mountain Huts
  • Yarigatake Page on Yarigatake Sanso Group Site (English) – Has general information about some huts and the mountain. Can get additional information from Japanese language pages if you use Google Translate. Created by the group that operates Yarisawa and Yarigatake Sanso lodges.
  • Yarisawa Lodge (Japanese) – Where we stayed our first night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yarigatake Sanso Lodge (Japanese) – We stayed here our second night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yokoo-Sanso Official Site (English) – We didn’t stay at this lodge, but it’s just below Yarisawa.
  • Yarisawa Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Yarigatake Sanso Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Japan-Guide: Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka Circuit (English)
  • Hiking in Japan: Mt. Yari (English)
  • Mt. Yari Peak Route Details (English)
• Shinhotaka Onsen
  • Yarimikan (English) – Onsen where we stayed after the hike
  • Japan-Guide Okuhida Access & Orientation (English)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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Moab Eats

One of our favorite Moab spots, 98 Center (named after its address), has a thoughtful and creative menu. They specialize in Asian (primarily Vietnamese) fusion in a trendy yet casual atmosphere. On our first visit, we ordered a pork banh mi and pho to share. The pho broth was delicious, with a light but well-developed flavor. Travis enjoyed it with a squeeze of fresh lime. We chatted with our waitress about how the restaurant caters to various diets (such as vegan, vegetarian, paleo, and keto) and how she’s influenced the menu.

We loved the cozy vibe, friendly and knowledgeable wait staff, and unique menu items so much we went back for a second visit. And did I mention the banh mi nachos?? So delicious, and they even put vegan cheese on mine.

The line was out the door when we arrived at Love Muffin Cafe. Once we made our way to the front, we both ordered the Bomber Burrito. I asked for no cheese (since I’m sensitive to dairy), and requested that it be marked since we got the same thing. They have a few vegan muffin options, including the Good Morning which has carrots and raisins, and Cranberry Bran, which I decided to try. Next, we found a spot at the “bar” and made ourselves at home. The food was tasty and the place has a funky vibe. The only thing I didn’t like was that my sandwich was not marked, as promised, and yes – they were mixed up.

During our visit in 2018, Travis waited in the line at the popular Quesadilla Mobilla while I went shopping around the corner. I had contemplated getting “The Vegan,” but didn’t for a few reasons. First, we had just finished breakfast. Second, their menu states that they don’t recommend that option. Maybe it’s a joke (I get it, it’s a quesadilla place), but that’s a terrible business move. Travis got the chicken one, and said it was amazing. It looked crispy and had lots of filling. If I could have eaten it, I would have!

Fast forward to 2019, and this time I wasn’t going to miss out. After waiting in another long line, the server said any quesadilla could be made with beans instead of cheese. I can’t even remember which I decided on, but guess what – it was delicious! And Travis’s, which had cheese of course, looked and smelled great too.

Milt’s is a super casual diner and a Moab institution. It was exactly the atmosphere we were looking for after a day of exploring Arches NP. Most of the seating is outdoors, but an employee announced that there were spots inside. It had gotten a bit chilly, so we headed in and sat at the bar. Travis ordered a bacon cheeseburger and tots. I ordered a buffalo burger and onion rings. It took about 35 mins, which they warned us about in advance. That also gave me time to enjoy the classic – even obscure – country tunes they were playing, which I happen to enjoy.

The food came out hot, and my onion rings were crispy and delicious. They had “fry sauce” on the counter (which the waiter said was a mix of ketchup, mayo, salt, and pepper) which was amazing. I snagged a few tots from Travis and they were nice and crispy on the outside too. Travis got an Oreo milkshake, which he said was good, but it wasn’t as thick as he would like, and chunks of cookie got stuck in the straw. But in my opinion, if you’re gonna get an Oreo milkshake, you can’t really complain about that. Travis said Snack Shack near Redwood NP had a better shake, but he still recommends Milt’s.

We didn’t eat at Sabaku Sushi on our first trip because we questioned how good a sushi place in the middle of Utah could possibly be. It turns out – very. They have plenty of spicy options. In fact, if you’re sensitive to spice, you may want to ask your server to ensure you know what you’re getting.

We shared the Fiery Furnace Roll, which is spicy tuna plus tempura bits on the outside, and spicy sauce on top (which I removed). We also got a Rainbow Bridge Roll which is a standard rainbow roll with fresh fish on top. Travis got tempura which he enjoyed, but some pieces (such as sweet potato) were not cooked through. The Sandstone Crunch Roll – shishito pepper, tempura, avocado, and salmon – was tasty, but one super spicy bite left Travis almost in tears. He got mochi ice cream afterward to calm his palate (so he claimed).

Moab Garage Co. is a surprising name for an ice cream shop – it’s named after the car repair shop that occupied the space from 1928 to 1975. Each serving of ice cream is made to order with liquid nitrogen, and either a dairy or coconut milk base. I got the blueberry basil, which ended up being my fave since it was refreshing and not overly sweet.

On our next visit, I got chocolate (with pretzels and almonds), which was tasty but a bit too sweet for me. Be mindful that some ingredients are not vegan (e.g. the cookie dough contains butter); fortunately the staff is very friendly and forthcoming with allergen info. On one of our visits, they warned me that a few chocolate chips with dairy had gotten in my coconut milk-based ice “cream,” and offered to remake it. I didn’t take them up on it, but I appreciated the offer.

The food at Moab Kitchen was vegan, homey, and unique. The setting was very hippy-esque and laid-back. It appeared that we were literally dining in the backyard / outdoor living room of the chef-owner. We shared a curry dish made with four different veggies including eggplant, jackfruit, and cabbage. While we aren’t vegan, the food was fun and flavorful. We also shared a delicious samosa. If we had stopped there, it would have been an awesome experience.

The cupcakes, which were also vegan, seemed store-bought and didn’t excite me. When I opened my chocolate cupcake, I was shocked to see that it had mold on top. I took it back to the chef; he swore, then gave me a new one. After a thorough check, I tasted it and decided it was only okay. But because of the experience with the first cupcake, I only had a small bite and wasn’t willing to eat the rest. In retrospect, I should have asked for my money back.

Travis loves craft beer, so he always ends up dragging me to at least one brewery. Moab Brewery was probably the weakest food we had in Moab. My salmon burger was dry and flavorless. The fries seemed okay at the start, but as they cooled off, they were blah. In a town full of fun and eclectic restaurants, it felt boring and forgettable. Maybe we ordered the wrong thing. Next time I suggested looking up which local restaurants have specific craft beers that Travis wants to try (there must be an app for that), so I can get good food too. We could always swing by the brewery to pick up a souvenir pint glass later. And on the plus side, Travis did enjoy the beer.

Moab has a fun food scene that’s one of a kind. There are a few places we still didn’t make it to. On our list for next time: Moab Spitfire Smokehouse (a BBQ food truck that closes early if they sell out), El Charro Loco, Miguel’s Baja Grill, and Arches Thai. At least that’s the plan, if we can drag ourselves away from the pho and quesadillas.

Moab Accommodations, etc.

Another thing I like about Moab: Main Street. I love places where the main street is actually called Main Street. This one is a great place to stretch your legs and take in the sights. It’s touristy though, with a seemingly endless line of cars entering Moab from the park. Of course, we’ve only visited during spring break, when Moab has its “Jeep Week,” which is exactly what it sounds like. But people here seemed pretty chill and laid-back.

Indigo Alley is a cute little shop with cool clothes, accessories, and personal care products. The shop owner was very personable and I chatted with her as I browsed the selection of sunglasses and leggings. She said she had been living in the area for almost 30 years.

One morning, we did laundry at Moab Laundry Express. It’s located in a little house just off main street. We walked in and immediately got sticker shock. But the machines looked nice…and we were already there, so we gave it a go. The machines washed and dried our clothes with no issues, so we can’t complain. They had everything you need, including machines that dispense laundry detergent and swap out your bills for change. We had gotten quarters at the hotel and brought a small packet of laundry detergent from home, but it would’ve worked out either way.

We stayed at Inca Inn in 2018 and had a good experience, so we booked another stay in 2019. Their motel-style rooms are reasonably priced and clean. The shower had weak water pressure, and colorful lights on the showerhead which I thought were pointless (though Travis liked them). It was quiet, with basic amenities such as an older style tv (which we didn’t watch anyway). There weren’t many electrical outlets, but the side table had a power strip which included three USB ports.

While there are plenty of hotel options in town, we appreciated Inca Inn’s friendly staff, clean rooms, comfy bed (more so than most we’ve stayed at), and proximity to Arches NP. A basic breakfast (when we visited they had things like oatmeal packets, hard boiled eggs, cereal, toast, jam, peanut butter, juice, milk, water, and all-day coffee) is included. Think “grab and go” for your adventure in the park. One morning, they only had original unflavored oatmeal, so I asked the hostess and she brought me some flavored options which I really appreciated (it’s the little things, right?). Also, the hot water in their lobby is always HOT, which is more than I can say about other places.

We had a blast in Moab on both our visits, and we can’t wait to go back. It’s a fun place to explore, and it boasts a variety of quirky and delicious restaurants. Best of all, it’s right down the road from Arches National Park.

Links

• Restaurants
  • 98 Center | 98 East Center St. Moab, UT 84532
  • Love Muffin Cafe | 139 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Quesadilla Mobilla | 95 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Milt’s Stop & Eat | 356 S Mill Creek Dr, Moab, UT 84532
  • Sabaku Sushi | 90 E Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Garage Co. | 78 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Kitchen | 180 W Center St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Brewery | 686 S Main St, Moab, UT 84532
• Shops
  • Indigo Alley | 77 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532
  • Moab Laundry Express LLC | 16 W 100 N, Moab, UT 84532
• Accommodations
  • Inca Inn | 570 N Main St, Moab, UT 84532

Interactive Map

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Note: This trip was back in 2017 when the park’s concessionaire was Xanterra. It’s now Aramark, so options inside the park may have changed.

There’s only one hotel in the park: Crater Lake Lodge. We had booked two nights, several months in advance, and were excited to stay there. But first, we’d be staying at Mazama campground. After setting up our campsite, we drove up to the lodge for a gorgeous view of the lake.

After staying two miserable nights in the campground, and cancelling our backpacking trip due to thunderstorms, we tried to get a room at the lodge. They were booked that night, but we were able to reserve a room for the following two nights.

Accommodations Outside the Park

We decided to call Diamond Lake Resort, located 45 minutes north of the park, in the Umpqua National Forest. Thankfully, we were able to reserve a room for that night. On the way, we hiked Boundary Springs Trail, which we highly recommend.

When you hear the name Diamond Lake, you expect something spectacular. However, it turned out to be pretty low-key. Its architecture is quaint and cottagey, and guest rooms are small, comfortable, and unassuming. Largely due to its location, it’s a budget-friendly alternative to Crater Lake Lodge. And we were glad they had availability, since we had no other good options.

Crater Lake Lodge

The following day, we checked in to Crater Lake Lodge. The guestrooms we stayed in were cozy, with basic amenities. There is no A/C, so we relied on fans to stay cool. The first room we stayed in had a view of Crater Lake, which added to the experience. After two nights, we switched to a room with a view of mountains on the opposite side. It was located on the top floor, in the eaves, so we were uncomfortably hot at night.

It would have been ideal to stay in one room for the entire visit, but at least they had some availability when our plans fell through. Staff at the lodge were friendly and helpful. They moved our luggage between rooms, and listened to our incessant questions about the status of our Crater Lake Boat Tour.

Overall we enjoyed the atmosphere at the lodge. We sat outside on the deck overlooking Crater Lake. In the evenings, we enjoyed relaxing in the Great Hall, particularly when the fireplace was lit. The lodge was crowded during the day, but cleared out in the evenings when only overnight guests remained.

Restaurants in the Park

Let’s start with the most memorable – the Dining Room at Crater Lake Lodge. The park website recommends making advance reservations. So we made ours several months ahead of time. Just in case. Since we were staying at the lodge sooner than anticipated, we chatted with the host and found that we could make a dinner reservation 24 hours in advance.

At dinnertime, we were seated by a window with a view of Crater Lake. After asking for a recommendation because of my dairy allergy, I ordered the Citrus Herb Chicken with veggies and wild rice. The waitress was helpful and accommodating. My meal was nicely seasoned and felt healthy, but it wasn’t amazing. Travis got Pacific Crest Trail pasta, with lemon cream sauce and salmon, which he really enjoyed. He also took advantage of the lodge’s small rotating list of craft beers on tap.

The following day, we were out hiking Mount Scott, Plaikni Falls, and the Pinnacles, so we hadn’t made a dinner reservation. Thankfully, guests can grab salad, soup, and appetizers on the balcony overlooking Crater Lake, and in the Great Hall (just outside the lodge’s main dining room). We chose to eat inside.

I asked for a wedge salad with salmon, which came with a delicious, creamy dressing. We both ordered soup of the day. Today it was wild rice with carrots, celery, mushrooms, and chicken broth. It was savory and hearty with a well-developed flavor. It looked like nothing, but it was some of the best soup I’ve ever had.

Travis ordered the BLT flatbread, which came topped with a healthy portion of greens. It was like a BLT and a pizza had a baby. He also ordered a Rogue Pendleton Pale Ale, which arrived in a Crater Lake National Park themed can. All the food and drinks we had were delicious. In fact, I preferred the food in the Great Hall.

The Great Hall has a more casual vibe compared to the dining room. Someone requested that the gas fireplace be turned on; it didn’t put out much heat, but added to the room’s ambiance. We enjoyed a cozy dinner on the couch.

The lodge restaurant also offers breakfast, so we decided to try it one morning. I had to order a la carte due to my dietary restriction, but there were many options and the wait staff was helpful once again. All in all, we greatly enjoyed the food at Crater Lake Lodge and highly recommend it.

Now let’s chat about some restaurants in the park that were memorable for a different reason. Crater Lake’s other two eateries were also operated by then concessionaire, Xanterra. The first is Annie Creek Restaurant, near Mazama Campground. It’s a casual sit down restaurant that we visited on our first night in the park.

There were many open tables, but we waited for about half an hour to be seated. I ordered a Monster Burger, without cheese, and a gluten free bun (since the regular bun contained milk). Travis ordered a pulled pork sandwich with pickles and red onion.

After another long wait, the waitress came by to apologize for the delay. She pointed to a man, and said that my dairy-free burger had mistakenly been served to him. The man eyed his food strangely, as he clearly hadn’t been told about the mix-up. The waitress offered me a complimentary trip to the salad bar, which I greatly appreciated.

After grabbing a bowl of soup, a burger was waiting for me at the table. But it was covered in mushrooms, and not what I had ordered. At this point, I just ate it, but requested some avocado, the only topping I could remember that I should have gotten. The burger was just okay, and the bun fell apart since it was a low-quality gluten free bun (and we’ve had tasty gluten free bread), but at least I didn’t get charged for the avocado or salad bar. Travis’s pulled pork sandwich was decent.

The other restaurant in the park is Rim Village Café. This place is more of a grab-n-go cafeteria, with food items sitting in fridges and under heat lamps. It’s nothing special, and expensive for what you get. We ended up paying $31 for two hot dogs, a cookie, yogurt, soda, and a fruit cup. Needless to say, we only went there once during our visit.

Restaurants Outside the Park

Establishments outside the park are spread out, so it takes time to get to them. Since we stayed one night at Diamond Lake Resort, we dined at the restaurant there. We ordered burgers; the food took forever to get to us, and was cold and tasteless. We did have a decent view of the lake to take our minds off the food, though.

We visited Beckie’s Cafe twice, and enjoyed quality food and service both times. Located on the west side of Crater Lake, Beckie’s has been around since 1926 and is known for its pie. We got a cheesesteak and a club sandwich, each with a side salad. I got an Angry Orchard cider (to make up for the salad), pretty standard but no complaints from me! They had a few local craft beers on draft, too.

The second time we visited, we had the same waitress who recognized us, and was friendly and helpful given my dairy allergy. She offered us an awkward high table next to the bar, which we happily accepted in lieu of waiting. This time we each got a Hunter Burger (no cheese on mine) with a fried egg and chipotle mayo with fries. The bun fell apart a bit, but it was still delicious.

A visit to Beckie’s wouldn’t be complete without trying the pie. Except I couldn’t eat it since it had dairy. Travis tried the peach and chocolate pie (on different visits) and they were both tasty. His favorite – chocolate – was rich, smooth, and silky with a light and fluffy whipped cream.

Overall, we were most impressed with Beckie’s Cafe and Crater Lake Lodge’s restaurant and Great Hall. Skip everything else and bring some canned tuna.

Places

• Crater Lake Lodge | 570 Rim Village Dr, Oregon 97604
  • Dining Room
• Diamond Lake Resort | 350 Resort Dr, Diamond Lake, OR 97731
• Annie Creek Restaurant | 569 Mazama Village, Crater Lake Hwy, OR 97604
• Rim Village Cafe and Gift Shop | 42.9110909, -122.1490059
• Beckie’s Cafe | 56484 OR-62, Prospect, OR 97536

Interactive Map

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There are no restaurants or lodging (aside from campgrounds) in Redwood National & State Parks. In 2010, Redwood Hostel, previously the only lodging in the park, closed. And in 2019, the hostel building is set to be demolished. Crescent City is near the northern part of the park, and Klamath and Orick are to the south. Even further south are the towns of Arcata and Eureka.

Restaurants in Crescent City

When visiting a park, I often drag my wife to nearby breweries. If I like the beer enough, I’ll buy a pint glass souvenir. In this case, I had SeaQuake Brewing in Crescent City in mind. We decided to visit after our Redwood Creek backpacking trip, so we were starving. I got pizza with a chocolate porter and Kristin got fresh fish tacos. I enjoyed my pizza a lot, but Kristin thought the fish tacos were dry and desperately needed a sauce. The beer was good, but didn’t wow me. We did enjoy the casual atmosphere there.

A couple days later, I convinced Kristin to go back to SeaQuake. I really wanted to like it – enough to get a pint glass. This time, I got a 9.2 burger with parmesan fries and Kristin got a Thai chicken salad. This time we both liked our food. Kristin’s salad had an assortment of vegetables, crunchy noodles, and spicy peanut dressing. I got two half pints of beer, a blonde ale and coastal pale ale, which were okay, but felt forgettable. So we left, me without a pint glass. The place was packed both times and we had to wait, so maybe I’m missing something.

We went to Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant for dinner one night, while staying at Jedediah Smith Campground. Kristin ordered a torta with pork al pastor, guacamole, mayo, onion, lettuce, and tomato, which she loved. It looked like a simple sandwich, but its sweet and spicy flavors and variety of textures made it great.

I got a chimichanga platter, but thought it was one-note and nothing special. Service was a bit strange, as different servers kept coming by our table, but they were friendly. When Kristin mentioned her dairy allergy, they were very accommodating.

For breakfast the next morning, we went to Hiouchi Cafe, which is only three minutes from Jedediah Smith Campground. The waitress was friendly as she took our order. I ordered Grandma’s French Toast, which piqued my interest as a cinnamon lover. It was good but basic – and it needed more cinnamon! My bacon was kinda rubbery too.

Kristin’s dairy allergy prevented her from ordering the breakfast meals, so she ordered eggs, sausage, hash browns, avocado, and tomatoes a la carte. Some items looked okay, but the avocado was very brown, and she was surprised they served it that way. I wanted to like Hiouchi Cafe – it sounded tasty and was highly rated. But for $30, what we got wasn’t worth it.

Restaurants in Orick

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Snack Shack. This outdoor roadside joint is located in Orick, California, near Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center and the southern section of the park. With limited parking and picnic benches, some of which are shaded by umbrellas, it was one of our favorite restaurants of the trip.

Snack Shack mainly serves burgers, hotdogs, and burritos. As we ordered, a Redwood Park Ranger picked up her order, so we figured it must be good! I got the Baby Bigfoot Burger: bacon, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and pepper jack cheese. And tots. And a chocolate milkshake.

Kristin got the Hawaiian Burger, which came with pineapple and bbq sauce, and a huge order of fries. Our meal was a bit greasy, but so tasty. The milkshake was rich, thick, smooth, and chocolatey. While Snack Shack has a seemingly “fast food” vibe, our food took a while to arrive.

Snack Shack is open until 7pm, and we wished it was open later. Also, there’s no restroom, so plan ahead. There aren’t many places to eat near southern Redwood N&SP, so we highly recommend it if you’re looking for some casual-yet-delicious roadside burgers.

Accommodations Near the Park

For campgrounds in the park, check out Gold Bluffs Beach Campground and Jedediah Smith Campground.

Lighthouse Inn in Crescent City is relatively affordable, and conveniently located along highway 101. Close to the park, and at just over $100 a night, our standard room was actually quite large. Our bed was a bit springy, which made it hard to sleep. The hotel was clean, and staff was friendly.

Breakfast consisted of basics: bagels, oatmeal, hard boiled eggs, cereal, and cake (breakfast of champions). There was no hot food, unless you toasted some bread, but it got us going in the morning. They had a washer and dryer, so we took the opportunity to clean our clothes ($1.50 a load). Some of the nautical themed decor in the hotel wasn’t quite our taste, but it was an affordable place to stay.

Places

• SeaQuake Brewing | 400 Front St, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant | 297 US-101, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Cafe | 2095 Hwy 199, Hiouchi, CA 95531
• Snack Shack | 120779 US-101, Orick, CA 95555
• Lighthouse Inn | 681 Highway 101 South, Crescent City, CA 95531

Interactive Map

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Tex-Mex

Tex-Mex cuisine is seriously lacking in DC, so we were excited to try some in the southwest. Tucson Tamale is a local institution that I had read about before our trip. We visited during the week and at an off-time, so we had the place mostly to ourselves. I ordered two tamales: the red chile beef and the vegan blue corn & veggie. T got verde pork & cheese and spicy chorizo beef tamales. The employee who took our order was friendly, and the food came out fast.

At the small topping bar, I grabbed some pico de gallo, which I mixed with my rice and beans, elevating the flavor. Then we got to unwrapping our tamales. All the tamales were moist, and the red chili beef was the biggest hit flavor-wise. It had some green olives (I think) which complemented the pork and chili. Even T liked it, and he’s not a fan of olives. We would have gone back if our trip had been longer than a week. Apparently you can place online orders for frozen tamales, which we definitely plan to do!

In researching Tucson’s food scene, we came across a relatively recent regional creation: the Sonoran hotdog. It’s a hot dog wrapped in bacon, with beans, salsa, mustard, mayo, and other southwest-style toppings, inside a crispy boat-like bun. This was at the top of my list, and we had two during our trip. The first was at el Guero Canelo, a fast casual type chain. We stopped there after a 3-day backpacking trip to Manning Camp when we were deliriously hungry after descending 4000 feet over about 10 miles in a day.

Since we hadn’t showered in three days, we decided to take our food to go (for the benefit of other guests). We each ordered a Sonoran hotdog, and added marinated onions (which were just okay), lime, and salsa from the topping bar. The flavors did not disappoint, but the bun wasn’t crispy by the time we got our food back to the hotel. I assume that’s because we got takeout, and would recommend eating it at the restaurant. Also, since we had just returned from a 3-day trek, I wished I had ordered two.

We later grabbed a second Sonoran hotdog (and other goodies) at Calle Tepa. We walked past their huge, colorful menu painted on the wall, and ordered at the counter. They have a large selection, so it was difficult to choose. The staff was friendly, and our total came to about $20. After ordering, we went to grab a seat. Since it was pretty frigid inside, we chose to eat on the patio, which, thankfully, was shaded.

Service was super fast. I got a carnitas taco, which tasted good, but wasn’t anything special (tacos are one thing we do have back home. If you’re in Northern VA or DC, I suggest a trip to Taco Bamba). We each got a Sonoran hotdog, which had an amazingly crispy bun. The toppings were tasty, and it was slightly spicier than el Guero Canelo’s. It’s tough to compare the two Sonoran hotdogs we had on our trip; I would happily check out both places again.

T also got an order of mini chimichangas, which came with guacamole and sour cream. T’s take: they were very crispy, but he wished they had more of a sauce and maybe some cheese on top. Also, it was too much for him to finish with all the other food we had ordered, so he took the leftovers to go.

We also went to a Mexican place called Los Nopales, which is a short drive from Saguaro’s Tuscon Mountain (west) District. It has great reviews on Yelp (4.5 stars) and the space has a no-frills vibe which I definitely appreciate. There were complimentary chips and salsa, which I enjoyed and ate plenty of. I ordered shrimp tacos and T got the chimichanga. It was a large plate of food, and we agree it tasted decent, but there was nothing special about it. I might revisit, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to do it.

Not Tex-Mex

Ramen may not be what Tucson is known for, but since we love it, we decided to look for a local Ramen joint. Ikkyu is a relatively highly rated, mostly takeout place. We arrived with the lunchtime crowd, but a random guy was nice enough to share his table with us. The tonkotsu (pork bone) broth was the star of the show with its deep umami, almost buttery, flavor. They made mine not spicy at my request. The noodles were thick, which we prefer, and they had a decent bite. The pork on top was flavorful, but dry. T liked the ground pork that was added. It had a few slices of bamboo shoots, scallions, a small portion of bean sprouts, and a fish cake. The toppings tasted decent, but we wanted more of them – and maybe a marinated egg. Note: ramen is only available Thursday through Saturday.

After hiking in the Rincon Mountain District one day, we needed to refuel. We had passed on a place called Saguaro Corners a few times already, thinking it looked kitch and noticing the Yelp rating was only so-so. But we were curious, and decided to stop in for dinner since it’s located right outside the park boundary. The place was packed, much larger than we thought, and a musician was playing in their outdoor seating area. After a short wait, which gave T an opportunity to check out the beer list on the chalkboard, a table opened up inside.

We followed the hostess back to our table, which was next to a small (man-made) outdoor waterfall. I ordered the ribs with fries and potato salad. The meal was good, and the potato salad in particular was delicious. I also tried Cider Boys Strawberry Magic which was sweet, fruity, and probably the best cider I’ve had in life. Too bad they don’t have it back home. T got a flight, of which he enjoyed most of his selections.

While not in Tucson, Farm House Bakery Restaurant was the only place open on Easter Sunday in a town called Benson, AZ. It was the eve of a 3-day backpacking trip to Manning Camp. I recommend their home-cooked food, quirky decor, and old-school country tunes. I ordered the pulled pork sandwich with barley vegetable soup, and T got the avocado bacon burger. The food was basic, but filling with a home-style quality.

If you need a quick burger fix, check out In-N-Out Burger. We have Five Guys on the east coast, but I had never been to In-N-Out. Even though it’s fast food, I recommend a visit for the solid burgers and fries.

Since I’m sensitive to dairy, T always searches for places to get dairy-free “ice cream” when we travel. He’s pretty awesome like that. This time, he found a shop called Cashew Cow, a name I thought was punny and cute. We stopped by, and each ordered a cup of ice cream. I got chocolate chip cookie dough, and T thinks he got something with cinnamon. It was tasty, but didn’t “wow” us. The portions were small, and it was pricey (about $14 for two ice cream cups). Also, not sure why they cram the ice cream into those tiny cups which makes it hard to eat. But gotta love that there’s a non-dairy option! 

It was so rewarding trying out some of the dining options Tuscon has to offer. Let us know if you’ve scoped out any good eats around Tucson. What did we miss?

Places:
Tucson Tamale | 7159 E Tanque Verde Rd, Tucson, AZ 85715 (multiple locations) | Tex-Mex
el Guero Canelo | 5802 E 22nd St, Tucson, AZ 85711 (multiple locations) | Sonoran Hotdogs
Calle Tepa | 6151 E Broadway Blvd, Tucson, AZ 85711 | Tex-Mex, Sonoran Hotdogs
Los Nopales Restaurant | 3051 S Kinney Rd, Tucson, AZ 85713 | Tex-Mex
In-N-Out Burger | 4620 N Oracle Rd, Tucson, AZ 85705 (multiple locations) | Fast Food, Burgers, Fries
Ikkyu | 2040 W Orange Grove Rd # 180, Tucson, AZ 85704 | Ramen, Sushi, Japanese Food
Saguaro Corners Restaurant & Bar | 3750 S Old Spanish Trail, Tucson, AZ 85730 | American Food, Beer
Farmhouse Bakery Restaurant (no website) | 811 W 4th St, Benson, AZ 85602 | American Food
Cashew Cow | 16 S Eastbourne Ave, Tucson, AZ 85716 | Vegan ice cream

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Southwest Harbor is also the closest town to Seawall Campground. Compared to Bar Harbor, it’s much smaller. There are fewer restaurants and stores, but that didn’t dissuade us from exploring it!

Restaurants

When we first arrived at Seawall Campground, it was already late, so we decided to go out for dinner. We had heard about a Mexican restaurant called XYZ; its name comes from the different regions of Mexico (Xalapa, Yucatan, and Zacatecas). It sounded interesting, though people had mentioned online that it was overpriced. Someone had recommended another Mexican place in Ellsworth, but unfortunately that had closed and was pretty far away anyway. So we decided to give XYZ a try. 

When we arrived at XYZ, the place was pretty crowded, but we were able to squeeze into some seats at the bar. The website stated that they have a full bar, so I asked the bartender if he could mix me several different things, but he didn’t have the liquor that was required (so…not a full bar). Eventually I decided on a margarita (the bartender’s recommendation) with sugar on the rim. It was okay, but nothing special. Which was pretty disappointing, considering we were at a Mexican place, and this seemed to be the only drink the bartender was able to make.

After we ordered our entrees, they brought us salad, which consisted of a few lettuce leaves on a plate with a side of oil, lime, and some pepper. I ate it because I was hungry, but it was probably the most boring salad I’ve ever had. They also brought us the tiniest serving of bread I have ever seen.

When our entrees arrived, they looked like something that had been sitting on a counter under a heat lamp for a bit too long. My Cochinita was okay. The beans and rice were palatable, but not very flavorful. The meat was not as tender as I would have liked. And I’ve had great marinated onions at lots of places, from local hole-in-the-wall places to Cava, but these didn’t compare favorably. T’s dinner was also disappointing. He ordered Chiles Rellenos (one of his fave Mexican dishes) but said it didn’t taste good.

Overall, staff was friendly and quirky, and decor was curiously inviting, with various political posters in Spanish that caught my attention. I speak some Spanish, so I enjoyed trying to read them. Other guests seemed like they were having a good time, and the restaurant seemed to accommodate several larger parties. For us, the food was just too expensive for the quality. Our dinner bill, which included two drinks, came to $85 (excluding tip).

A couple days later, we decided to check out Sips for breakfast. It is a cozy neighborhood spot with small, high-top tables and a wine bar. The decor made the place feel very homey and comfortable. After perusing the menu and chatting with the friendly waitress, I decided on a breakfast sandwich – an everything bagel with egg, sausage, tomato, and avocado. They have a variety of toppings, so you can customize your order. I also got a side of home fries.

My food came, and the sandwich was beautiful. I know that’s a weird thing to say about a breakfast sandwich, but see the picture below. The home fries were about average. T got french toast which looked amazing. Overall, the food was simple, but high quality and thoughtfully prepared. This meal came to about $14 total (excluding tip). Totally worth it. Next time, we’ll skip XYZ and come here.

Shops

After breakfast we took a stroll through Southwest Harbor. After perusing some clothing and trinket shops, we ended up at Sawyer’s Market. Their selection of chocolate included many different flavors and brands from a variety of countries. Naturally, we each bought one, even though they were pricey.

T also picked up a bottle of Coal Porter beer from Atlantic Brewing Company at Sawyer’s. He had tried it during our tasting at Mainely Meat, and wanted to bring one home. Though some items were expensive, this shop had a great selection of novelty items as well as groceries and baked goods. Plus, it’s right on Main Street.

Though we spent only a short time in Southwest Harbor, it seemed to be a quaint Maine town with a low-key vibe. We saw some beautiful views, got some great food, took a relaxing stroll along Main Street, and even satisfied some snack and drink cravings. 

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Southwest Harbor | Google Maps
XYZ Restaurant | 80 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Sips | 4 Clark Point Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Sawyer’s Market | 344 Main St, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679

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Our journey to Isle au Haut began in Bar Harbor, where we had just gone kayaking and checked out of Blackwoods Campground.  We headed to Stonington, a small town on Deer Isle off the Maine coast.  Stonington is the “gateway” to Isle au Haut, since a mail boat travels between the two.  It’s an easy 1.5 hour drive to Stonington from Bar Harbor.  There aren’t many grocery store options in or close to Stonington, so we grabbed everything we needed along the way at a Walmart.

Stonington

We planned to stay in Stonington for one night, before catching the mail boat to Duck Harbor the next morning.  Our lodging for the night was at Boyce’s Motel, a quaint spot on the coast, that we would heartily recommend.   The room was small, but it was clean and well-maintained.  The price was right, and our room even had a fridge to store some goodies for our trip.

Since we desperately needed to do laundry, the proprietor of Boyce’s pointed us toward Island Laundromat on Deer Isle, about 10 minutes from Stonington.  Bring quarters!  We also brought detergent in single-use boxes, but there is a machine that will dispense some as well.  Check the hours – it isn’t open very late.  If you go, set aside extra time, and be aware that the machines are pretty old.  Some of our clothes were sopping wet after the wash cycle, and needed additional dryer time.  It was a bit annoying, but in the end the laundromat served its purpose.  We stopped by the laundromat again after returning from Isle au Haut.

Next stop: dinner.  There aren’t many restaurant choices in Stonington (surprise!), but we had researched options beforehand using Yelp and other sources.  We didn’t know quite what to expect, but we decided to check out Fisherman’s Friend, a restaurant located on the pier and walkable from Boyce’s.  K got the fish tacos, which were amazing. She really liked the remoulade sauce, and she ordered extra (naturally). I got the fish and chips, which were good too.  They have outdoor seating, but we ate inside since it was a bit chilly that evening. We had a partial view of the pier from our table.  Also, they had hard cider and a decent selection of craft beers, which was a nice treat.  Overall, good food and service, and decent prices. K says, GET THE FISH TACOS!!! (Note: Fisherman’s Friend is now closed, and will be re-opening as Stonecutter’s Kitchen).

A few days later, we wanted to eat here again after returning from Isle Au Haut, but found out that they were closed on Wednesdays.  Instead, we went down the street to Harbor Cafe.  The food was simple but surprisingly good.  K got the fried haddock sandwich, and I had the turkey club.  Both meals came with fries.  The hostess and server was both very friendly.  The beer selection was limited, but overall, this was what we needed after 3 days of camping.  A piece of blueberry pie didn’t hurt either.

After our dinner at Fisherman’s Friend, we wandered around town, taking photos and enjoying the atmosphere of a quintessential Maine fishing town.  We also wanted to locate the mail boat dock, since we planned to arrive there early the next day.  We eventually found it, only 0.2 miles from Boyce’s.  Stonington was a highlight of our trip; it is a relaxing, quaint town that we’ll remember for a long time.

The Mail Boat to Isle au Haut

We woke up early the next morning to catch the mail boat at 8:00 am.  We made some oatmeal, packed up our gear, and headed to the dock to get there at least 30 minutes ahead of time.  Originally, our boat was supposed to leave at 10:30 am, but the company switched the times due to problems with one of their boats.  Thankfully, the National Park Service had emailed us a few weeks ahead of time to notify us of the change.  The earlier departure time was actually a boon in the end since we had fewer people on our boat (more groups arrived on the afternoon boat).

After getting out the door, we drove to the nearest convenience store (next to Fisherman’s Friend) to get ice for our cooler.  Our fresh food properly refrigerated, we drove to the Isle au Haut Mail Boat dock.  There, we bought two roundtrip boat tickets for $40 each – you can’t reserve them in advance.  We were then directed to park our car on the dock, where we could leave it for three nights.  The dock had a cart that we used to load our luggage onto the boat.  And we were ready to hit the waves and head to Isle au Haut!

At this point, we were the only ones at the dock.  By the time the boat left, one other couple had arrived to make the journey with us.  But that was it, so it was a quiet ride.  The boat set off from the dock, and we were on our way.  Our boat passed enumerable little rocky islands, many with trees, some with houses, all surrounded by lobster traps.  We took endless photos, but at some point we just relaxed and enjoyed the scenery.

After about an hour, the first stop was Isle au Haut Town on the northern end of the island.  We could have departed here, and backpacked the approximately 4.0 miles to the campground, but had chosen to go directly there.  We would visit the town later on a dayhike during our stay.  The other couple got off here, so we were now the lone passengers for the remainder of the ride to Duck Harbor.

It’s a quick 20 minute boat ride to Duck Harbor from the town.  Along the way, we saw Robinson Point Lighthouse – a beautiful sight on the rocky coast.  The captain of our boat informed us that you can actually stay there at Keeper’s House Inn… for $450 a night!  That’s a bit beyond what we’d be willing to pay personally, but would make for a neat stay.  Soon we rounded Eben’s Head, a rocky outcropping just before Duck Harbor.  And there, at last, was the Duck Harbor Landing pier!  Several people were waiting there, including a Park Ranger who would greet us, and other visitors waiting to take the boat back to Stonington.

Places:
Isle au Haut Mailboat | 37 Seabreeze Ave, Stonington, ME 04681
Boyce’s Motel | 44 Main St, Stonington, ME 04681
Fisherman’s Friend/Stonecutter’s Kitchen  | 5 Atlantic Ave, Stonington, ME 04681
Harbor Cafe | 36 Main St, Stonington, ME 04681 | Open 6 AM to 8:30 PM
Island Laundromat | 44.21609, -68.68925 (There’s no address that I could find) | Open 8 AM to 6 PM

References:
NPS Isle au Haut
Wikipedia Isle au Haut
Isle au Haut 2014 Visitor Use Management Plan

Maps:
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

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Carriage roads and hiking trails weave together to provide a variety of routes to explore the rivers and bridges on the East side of the park (Schoodic also has a newly-built network of “carriage roads”). Due to time constraints, we chose to visit just two of the bridges.

Cobblestone Bridge

First, we visited Cobblestone Bridge. It was the first bridge, completed in 1917, and is the only one built from individual cobblestones. We parked near Jordan Pond House, a restaurant in the park that’s famous for serving tea and popovers. Our plan was to get lunch there after our hike. There are a number of trails leading into the woods from JPH, and we weren’t sure which to take at first. After studying our map, we crossed our fingers and chose one (fortunately, it was the correct one). We quickly found ourselves on the Jordan Stream Path, which follows the river as well as the carriage road to the bridge. It would be about 0.7 miles to the bridge, for a total of 1.4 miles out and back.

There are many photo opportunities along the way. We took a number of selfies (hey, we were on our honeymoon), particularly once the bridge was in view. The stream was next to our dirt and stone path (photo). We also spotted several “mini-waterfalls” as I called them, where stream water rushed through the rocks.

There was a fair amount of wildlife along this trail. First, we saw a red squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) scamper among the trees and logs. We saw these small squirrels everywhere in Acadia, and heard them chattering, which seemed to startle some visitors. They’re much cuter than the grey squirrels we see in DC. Next, we saw a bullfrog (Rana catesbeina) sunbathing in a puddle. T stopped to photograph it for quite some time, and ended up getting a pretty good shot. I also spotted a snake; after looking it up online we believe it was a juvenile garter snake (Thamnophis sirtalis). Apparently, there are no poisonous snakes in Maine, which is comforting. The sound of birds chirping was also a welcome addition to our short hike.

After hiking near the stream over rocks, dirt paths, and boardwalks, we caught our first glimpse of the Cobblestone Bridge. We went “off-trail” and went from rock to rock over the stream as we approached the bridge, which provided a better view. As we got closer, we began to see the individual cobblestones and their colors. It was really neat to spot the bridge from further away, and see the details come into focus. We stopped under the bridge to explore, and attempt to take some artsy photos that show off Cobblestone Bridge’s texture and color variation. There are many photos online showing the bridge with enhanced colors, but these don’t compare to seeing it in person. The detail and craftsmanship of the bridge are impressive, but you have to stop and look closely to really appreciate it.

After taking the trail out to Cobblestone Bridge, we followed the carriage road back to Jordan Pond House for a change of pace. The road itself wasn’t super exciting to walk on, but it was faster and we didn’t have to retrace our steps. Plus, the road system has an interesting history. In retrospect, it would have been fun to bike the carriage roads. Something to remember for next time!

Jordan Pond House

After our hike, it was time for lunch at Jordan Pond House. This restaurant has been serving popovers and tea since the 1890s, so it’s something special. The original building burned down in 1979, and the current building was built in 1982.

The place was crowded, but there was no wait for our party of 2. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during the summer or if you have a larger party. We sat at a table on the patio with a view of the lawn, the Bubbles, and Jordan Pond. We were in the shade, which was cool and relaxing, though lawn seats would’ve given us a better view.

T ordered a popover with butter and strawberry jam, and a blueberry soda. I’m allergic to milk products, sadly, or I would have ordered a popover as well. It looked rather crispy and inviting. T says the popover was iconic and tasty.

I ordered the BLTT (a BLT with turkey) and T ordered a Grilled Chicken Caprese. The food was okay, but not anything too special. The turkey on the BLTT was a little dry, so at this point I commandeered T’s leftover strawberry jam to put on my sandwich. Go ahead, try it. The strawberry jam, which I believe is homemade, is amaaaaazing. It was so good and improved the sandwich so much that I asked the waitress to bring me another pot of it. I didn’t even care that she probably thought I was crazy.

Our visit wouldn’t have been complete without visiting this Acadia icon. No matter where you sit, it’s good for people-watching and enjoying the gorgeous Maine weather (which during our visit was sunny and warm with low humidity). After lunch, we wandered down a short path to enjoy the view of Jordan Pond and the twin mountains known as the Bubbles. It was gorgeous; we wish we had more time to relax on the lawn and take in the views.

Waterfall Bridge

The following day, after our hike up Pemetic Mountain, we had some extra time. We decided to check out another bridge on the carriage road system. We had looked at photos of all 17 bridges before traveling to Acadia. I knew I wanted to see Cobblestone Bridge, but decided at the last minute that I also wanted to check out Waterfall Bridge because of a gorgeous photo I saw on Joe’s Guide to Acadia.

There are several ways to get to the bridge. We took the Hadlock Brook Trail, which is an easy 1.8 mile out-and-back hike. The carriage also goes there, but that appeared to be a longer (and less exciting) route. The trail wasn’t anything special either, but it was a peaceful hike through the forest. Before long, we were at the bridge.

Waterfall Bridge has a beautiful, austere design. It is meant to frame the adjacent waterfall, but the view was a bit underwhelming due to the timing of our visit. We had to search for the waterfall on the rock face; it was barely a trickle. As we neared the bridge we walked from boulder to boulder, which I really enjoyed. We walked under the bridge and up close to the waterfall. This would have been a great view on a spring day when the water was flowing heavily. If you can, I recommend visiting in the spring or otherwise when there has been a lot of rain. Also, Hemlock Bridge is nearby. We didn’t visit, but it’s so close I wish we had.

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Bar Island Trail

Bar Island, north of Bar Harbor, is part of Acadia National Park. If you find Bridge Street in downtown Bar Harbor, then head north, you’ll make your way to the edge of the ocean and see the island about a third of a mile away. And if you come when it’s low tide… you can walk across to the island!

I used a tidepools app on my phone to tell when we could cross the sandbar, and there are charts posted in Bar Harbor and online.  Luckily, it was low tide when we got to Bar Harbor, and after a quick calculation, we determined that we had enough time to walk to the island, and return before the tide came in. We were anxious to explore Bar Harbor, but the short hike on Bar Island came first.

The trail starts at the end of Bridge Street, and crosses the sandbar. We wandered around the bar, leisurely crossing while snapping photos and examining everything. Seaweed was everywhere, and we found little crabs and other critters in the tide pools. See what you can find as you explore! Some people drive over the bar, so watch out for cars. I recommend walking, it’s part of the experience.

After walking across the bar, we got to the beach on Bar Island. There’s a trail that continues onto the island and goes up a gradual incline. Along the trail we saw some gorgeous purple lupine that was begging to be photographed. Eventually, we reached a fork in the path. We didn’t explore the area to the right, but it goes to the site of the former home of Journalist Jack Perkins who sold the property (and about half of the island) to the NPS in 2003.  We turned left to continue to the summit. At the top was a rock cairn (which K climbed), and a great view of Bar Harbor. That’s pretty much the end of the trail, so we headed back the way we came. As we crossed the sandbar, we noticed that the water had receded even further.

We definitely recommend this trail; it’s a great introduction to the park. And it’s an easy trail, good for families with young kids, who would probably love exploring the tide pools as much as we did. Later in our trip, we went back during high tide, and looked across the water to the island. It was great to reminisce about going across, and seeing the difference when the tide was high.

Bar Island | 1.7 miles out and back | Easy
Elevation Change: 165 feet
Parking: The trail is accessed from the northern end of Bridge Street. Plenty of parking, e.g. along West Street (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Ensure that it’s low tide, then continue from Bridge Street onto the sandbar.  Continue about 0.3 miles along the bar until you reach Bar Island.  Once there, you’ll see a trail that continues inland.  This trail will go for about 0.3 miles, and then you’ll come to a fork in the path.  Take the left fork for 0.2 miles to the summit for good views of Bar Harbor.  Go back the way you came to return to Bar Harbor.
Highlights: Walking along tidepools, views from island, good for kids (easy hike, wildlife habitat)
Notes: Only accessible 1.5 hours before and after low tide, so plan ahead and make sure you give yourself enough time to explore and get back safely.

References:
Bar Island Wikipedia
Bar Island Trail Map PDF
Tide Chart of Bar Harbor

Bar Harbor

We really enjoyed Bar Harbor. It’s totally laid back, and has a ton of restaurants and shops. And of course, it has beautiful views since it’s located right on the water. There’s so much to write about Bar Harbor, but we’ll focus primarily on the restaurants we visited. Make sure you explore, grab some good food and drinks, and just relax after hitting the trail for the day. If you’re in need of any outdoor gear, make sure to stop by Cadillac Mountain Sports too – we stopped here several times to restock on a energy bars, canister fuel, etc. while in the area.

K also found a few shops she liked – she tried on some dresses at It’s a ME Thing and Patrick’s By the Sea, and Fair Trade Winds had soaps, trinkets, and other gift items that she enjoyed checking out.

Lodging

Quality Inn, Bar Harbor
40 Kebo St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We also want to mention the first hotel we stayed in. We stayed in a room with two queen beds, in a “cabin” of sorts rather than the main building. It was simple, affordable, and cozy, with friendly service. And one of the best hotel breakfasts we’ve had, with many options, including fresh seasonal Maine blueberries. It was very quiet, but just a short walk away from downtown Bar Harbor. We highly recommend it, and plan to stay here for more than one night when we visit Acadia again.

Restaurants

Mainely Meat & Atlantic Brewing
15 Knox Rd, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

This BBQ and Brewery is located outside of downtown Bar Harbor, but is definitely worth a visit.  It’s the only craft brewery on MDI, and they have great beer. Atlantic Brewing has another location in downtown Bar Harbor, but we didn’t want to miss the BBQ which the downtown location lacks.  Most restaurants in town will at least have one Atlantic Brewing beer on tap (hopefully more!).

When you visit this brewery, you’ll get a free tasting of a selection of beers. Blueberry Ale, Coal Porter, and Ellen’s Coffee Stout were my favorites. I really wish I had been able to try out all of the beers (someday, Island Ginger…). So make sure you grab a pint or two when in Bar Harbor. There’s also a small gift shop at the brewery, where I bought an Atlantic Brewing pint glass for my collection of breweries near National Parks.

Beer goes great with food, so it’s natural that they’d have a BBQ joint on-site for their Knox Road location (the downtown Bar Harbor one does not). We sat outdoors, in a super casual setting. The waitstaff was friendly and helpful, and the BBQ was very good! I got a sampler plate, with pulled pork, ribs, chicken, sausage, and all sides (BBQ beans, slaw, and potato salad). Washed down with a Blueberry Ale. K got a full plate of ribs, which were tender and flavorful, and also came with all 3 sides. The ribs were definitely the star of the show, though I liked the pulled pork too.

Sidestreet Café
49 Rodick St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We visited this restaurant on our first night in Bar Harbor. And it was pretty good – solid American-style food and drinks and decent service. Only problem was I ordered an Atlantic Brewing Blueberry Ale here, and got a different beer. I thought something was off when the beer seemed too hoppy for a fruit ale. Another clue was when the guy next to me got a beer with blueberries in the bottom, which was a nice touch.  The waitress was very apologetic, and she brought me a sample since I didn’t feel like drinking a second pint.

Finback Alehouse
30 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We really liked Finback. It was an impromptu decision, between Finback and the Thirsty Whale (which we regret we didn’t go to). Finback has a diverse selection of food and a great variety of drinks. I ended up with a Finback Local Pulled Pork sandwich which was amazing, while K had Island Fish Tacos. K thought the fish tacos were very good, but not quite as good as the fish tacos that she got in Stonington at Fisherman’s Friend. We were really impressed by the service too – the waitress made a phone call to double-check the ingredients (K is allergic to milk) and brought K the blueberry pie she had been craving.

Jeannie’s Great Maine Breakfast
15 Cottage St, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

There are quite a few breakfast places in Bar Harbor, so we had to check out at least one. And Jeannie’s was the pick, mainly because they had vegan friendly options for K. We were starving when we got here, since we had just gone on a kayaking trip. The food? It was good, I got blueberry pancakes and K got some vegan pancakes that were covered with pecans. This added a lot of texture and I think the vegan pancakes may have been even better than the regular ones. They had an amazingly good strawberry rhubarb jam on the table; we went through most of the jar during our breakfast. The only downside to this place was the service. Actually, it was our waitress that was not the best. The hostess and other waiters/waitresses seemed fine (and even brought us water when we ran out…), but ours just didn’t seem to have a care in the world about us.

Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream
325 Main Street, Bar Harbor, ME 04609
7 Firefly Lane, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

I really wanted to like this place, but it was just okay. We had read reviews indicating that it was amazing, but in the end we were both let down. My peanut butter ice cream was good, but K’s strawberry sorbet was mediocre. It was icy and the flavor didn’t stand out. There are two locations in Bar Harbor, and they do have very interesting flavors that you don’t normally see, so you could check it out just for that.

CJ’s Big Dipper Ice Cream
150 Main St #1, Bar Harbor, ME 04609

We kind of stumbled onto this place while walking around. A sign out front proclaimed that they had dairy-free soy ice cream – which was a win for K. The service was a bit odd, they try to rush everyone along to make a decision and weren’t super friendly. And they wouldn’t let K get more than one flavor in the small size, which again, was odd. But the ice cream was delicious, including the soy version, so if you’re okay with some less-than-great service and/or have a dairy allergy, this is a good place to go.

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