It was our intention to backpack in Island in the Sky. But we looked for backcountry campsites too late, and most of the good ones were already taken. Also, once in the park, we decided we’d rather explore a bit before jumping into backpacking. With that in mind, we wanted to stay one night at Willow Flat.

Island in the Sky…that is what we are

After driving into the park, we made a quick stop at the Visitor Center in hopes that a backcountry site had opened up. Unfortunately (but not unexpectedly), none had, so we headed to Willow Flat. It’s a small first-come, first-served campground, with only 12 sites. We usually reserve campsites ahead of time, but this time, we winged it (though we made sure to arrive early). And…it turned out fine. There were 3-4 sites available when we got there at 10:20 am.

We grabbed site 8 for only $15/night. Thankfully we had some cash on us. Each campsite has the usual amenities – fire pit and picnic table – as well as a nice ramada which provided some shade. You can’t go wrong with any campsite, but it’s worth noting that site 6 is accessible (ADA) and reserved at all times for people with disabilities only.

Willow Flat has few amenities. There’s no water available, but the nearby visitor center does have potable water. We brought plastic water jugs just in case too. The campground has two pit toilets, and thankfully they were clean. While setting up our tent, we noted how scenic the campground is. Afterward, we headed out to hike. 

Later that day, we relaxed at our site and enjoyed the surrounding beauty. We didn’t have any firewood to cook dinner (you’ll need to bring your own, as it’s not sold in the campground), so we relied on some dehydrated meals we had brought for backpacking. After dinner, we headed a short distance down the road to Green River Overlook. The view from the overlook is spectacular, and I recommend it even if you’re not staying at the campground.

Back at our campsite, we got ready for bed. The campground was so quiet and peaceful. In the morning, we scavenged for breakfast, and then packed up. At this point, the campground was full – some other visitors arrived and asked if they could take our spot. I guess we got lucky the previous day. Even though we only stayed one night in Willow Flat, we really enjoyed it and would have loved to stay longer. It’s a perfect place for exploring the park. And it certainly beat driving in from Moab every day.

Willow Flat Campground | 12 Campsites

Date Visited: March 29, 2018
Location: 10 miles from the park’s main entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities:  Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Ramada | Vault Toilets | Trash and Recycling (Note: Firewood is NOT sold here)
Dates Open: Year Round (Most popular spring through fall)
Prices: $15/night for individual tent campsite (bring cash or check). You can also pay with credit card at the visitor center, if open.
Reservations: None. All sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Views, Located in the Park
Best Sites: You can’t go wrong with any site.
Notes: No potable water. Check-out time is 10:00 am. Campsite #6 is ADA and reserved at all times for people with disabilities only.

Places

• Willow Flat Campground | 38.383320, -109.888232
• Green River Overlook | 38.383320, -109.888232

Maps

• Willow Flat Campground Map (KTNPBlog)

Links

• Willow Flat Campground (NPS)
• Cryptobiotic Soil Article (NPS)

Interactive Map

The post Willow Flat Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Once again it was spring break, and time to explore our national parks. This time, we were headed to Utah. Most of our time would be spent in Arches National Park, with a couple days in Canyonlands. Based on flight cost and arrival time, we decided to fly into Grand Junction, Colorado and drive almost two hours to Moab, Utah. We planned to spend our first two nights at Devils Garden Campground, the only developed campground in Arches National Park.

Like most campgrounds in national parks, Devils Garden is very popular, so we researched and made a list of preferred sites ahead of time. Sites in the high teens and low 20s have very good views, but more sun and wind exposure. Sites in the 40s and 50s have fewer scenic views, but more shade and wind protection.

We were particularly interested in campsites that have better views. The moment the sites became available six months ahead of our visit, we logged into Recreation.gov to book. Campsites go quick – we got one of our top choices (site #24), but we would’ve been happy with any site.

Getting There

Our flight arrived in Grand Junction at 10 a.m., giving us plenty of time to drive into Moab. As we flew in, the mountains and mesa that surround the city were covered in snow. Colorado National Monument is close by, and we made a mental note to check it out someday. After picking up our rental car, we stopped at Walmart and REI for supplies.

We decided to take a longer scenic route to Moab via UT-128, as recommended by the car rental agency, rather than I-70. The snow-capped La Sal Mountains appeared intermittently throughout the trip. Afterwards, we passed by the creepy ghost town of Cisco. Stepping on the gas, we crossed the Colorado River on Dewey Suspension Bridge, and followed the river into Moab.

Our car weaved between red mesas, colorful mountains, spires, and other picturesque formations. All the colors, shapes, and textures created amazing views with the La Sals in the background. There were many pull-offs, so we stopped a few times to take photos. We also carefully watched for cyclists around blind curves. Eventually, we crossed the Colorado River again, passed Moab, and arrived at Arches National Park.

Entering Arches National Park

Cars were backed up at the park entrance, which seems to happen often. Thankfully, it was late afternoon and other visitors were leaving, so it only took five minutes to enter. We went to the visitor center right away to get water. It had a slight chlorine taste, but we wanted to make sure we had enough (and it’s free). We’d be back at the visitor center the following day to book Fiery Furnace permits and learn about the geology of the area.

Devils Garden Campground is located at the opposite end of Arches NP, so we essentially had to drive through the entire park (18 miles) to get there. We really enjoyed the drive, which was like a mini-orientation. As the road ascended, we spotted well-known rock formations like the Three Gossips. We stopped for a quick 0.3 mile walk around Balanced Rock, which was interesting to observe from different angles.

Devils Garden Campground

In the early 1920s, an immigrant prospector named Alexander Ringhoffer explored Klondike Bluffs, a rugged area with fins and arches in what is now the west side of Arches National Park. When Arches was designated as a national monument in 1929, the Klondike Bluffs area was initially left out. Interestingly, Ringhoffer originally called this section Devils Garden, but that name was transposed onto the area we now know as Devils Garden.

Finally, we reached the campground at the end of the main park road. It looked just like the photos (that isn’t always the case). Near the entrance, we saw the host cabin where firewood was available, but the hosts were away. On the way to our site, we ran into the hosts and chatted with them. Later, they would bring by firewood ($5/bundle) and newspaper for kindling.

Arriving at our campsite, we remembered our conversation months earlier about all the site variables – views vs wind protection vs privacy. We had opted for views, and our site delivered. The nearby rock formations and La Sal Mountains in the distance were exactly the vibe we wanted. Now for the downside – it was very windy, around 20 mph with stronger gusts.

We organized our gear, and starting cooking a dinner of hotdogs with peppers, onions, and Old Bay seasoning. It took many attempts to start a fire due to the wind, but we got it going eventually. After dinner, we started exploring the campground. We made sure not to step on the delicate cryptobiotic soil, which was everywhere. This soil contains microorganisms and is essential to the health of the local ecosystem since it helps limit erosion and retain water.

Across the road from our campsite was a path to the campground amphitheater. And beyond that was our first arch – Skyline Arch. Scrambling up and around rocks and boulders, we found a path to get closer to it. It was a lot of fun to take photos of (and with) the arch. Stars were visible at 8:15 p.m., even though the sky had been overcast earlier. Arches NP often has a clear night sky, and we spotted two constellations – Orion and the Big Dipper.

Exhausted, we went back to our campsite and crashed. Around midnight, our next door neighbors were being a bit loud, but we talked to them and they quieted down. We felt bad, as they had been up celebrating something, but we appreciated it. After that, the campground was nice and quiet, so we got a good nights’ sleep.

The Next Day – More Adventures

In the morning, we woke up to a cool, partly cloudy day, which slowly warmed up. We got breakfast, and scared off some birds (probably crows or ravens) so they wouldn’t get into our gear and food. Next, we returned to the visitor center to get permits for Fiery Furnace, then hiked to Tower Arch. Later that afternoon, we headed back to the campground to hike the route to Sand Dune, Broken, and Tapestry Arches. The trail passes through the campground, so it was convenient to do while staying there.

The trail was fun, but the weather was becoming increasingly windy, foreshadowing what happened when we arrived back at our campsite. Our tent had blown free of half its stakes, and the poles were bending considerably. Thankfully, we were able to wrangle everything and prevent it from blowing away. If we had gotten there a few minutes later though, who knows what would have happened. If we stay at a similarly exposed site next time, we would secure the tent with some rocks. This was the tradeoff for those views we wanted.

After the mishap with our tent, we decided to sleep in our car. It was chilly, but our double quilt kept us fairly warm (though individual sleeping bags would have been better in this situation). In the morning, the wind had died down. It had been our last night in the campground, so we packed up and headed to Devils Garden Trail, a popular nearby hike.

Since Arches tends to have excellent conditions for stargazing, I had really wanted to do some night photography. In the end, I only took a few photos, due to the wind and cold nighttime temperature.

Even with a few weather-related complaints, we really enjoyed staying at Devils Garden Campground and highly recommend it. It’s one of our favorite campgrounds so far. And the location is perfect – many hikes are close by, and you don’t have to wait in line to enter the park every day. Just…don’t leave a backpacking tent on an exposed site during a very windy day without securing it further.

Devils Garden Campground | 51 Campsites

Dates Visited: March 24 – 26, 2018
Location: 18 miles from the park’s main entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities:  Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush/Vault Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling| Firewood for Sale
Dates Open: Year Round (with reduced availability in winter)
Prices: $25/night for individual tent campsite | $75-$250/night for group campsite depending on number of campers
Reservations: All sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. From November to February, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Views, Located in the Park, Skyline Arch
Best Sites: The sites on the north and east sides of the campground, with numbers in the 10s and 20s, typically have better views and are more exposed to the elements. Sites in the south of the campground, numbered in the 40s and 50s, have more rock formations for wind protection and privacy. For the best views check out sites 18, 20, 21, 23, or 24. If you’re looking for a site that’s spacious, private, and near large rocks, look at 48, 50, or 51. But you can’t really go wrong with any site.
Notes: There are two group campsites and 49 individual sites. Check-out time is 10:00 am.

Places

• Devils Garden Campground | 38.7782749, -109.5860319
• Skyline Arch | 38.7782749, -109.5860319

Maps

• Devils Garden Campground Map

Links

• Devils Garden Campground (NPS)
• Devils Garden Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)
• Cryptobiotic Soil Article (NPS)

Interactive Map

The post Devils Garden Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Let’s Check it Out

Since the last time we had camped there, Mathews Arm Campground had been updated, and we were interested to see how it had changed. In past visits, we had reserved one of the sites between A42 and A55, but you can no longer book those in advance. Instead, we grabbed the last site available for a weekend in late September, site C150.

After work on a Friday, we arrived at Mathews Arm Campground around 8pm. This was later than we wanted, but we still looked forward to a weekend of both relaxing and hiking. We went into the restrooms to brush our teeth and discovered a welcome addition – handsoap. In the past, there had only been hand sanitizer.

The campground seemed unusually crowded, probably due to the density of campsites in the C-loop. That night, we could hear people talking until after midnight. Many were still out around their campfires – some were yelling, others were playing loud music. We’ve found other campgrounds in national parks to be quiet; even Seawall Campground in Acadia, which has some crowded areas, was much quieter.

We didn’t see any rangers or campground staff around, so I guess no one was enforcing quiet hours. It’s hard to get quality sleep while camping, and the constant noise made it hard to fall asleep. Conversely, it’s generally been very quiet at night during previous visits. During a past visit, we even heard a ranger asking campers to let her know if other groups were disturbing them.

In the morning, we discovered we had forgotten our camp stove. So went to Elkwallow Wayside, a nearby camp store, to grab some breakfast. We had been there several times in the past to get firewood and random supplies we had forgotten at home.

Elkwallow is about 3 miles from Mathews Arm and also has gift shop items and basic hot food. T got a bacon, egg, and cheese muffin with hashbrowns, and I got sausage and egg on toast, also with hashbrowns. The servers were friendly and very accommodating of my dietary restriction. All the seating is outdoor, which you might expect. So we ate our breakfast at a sunny picnic table. The food was kind of like what you’d get at a fast food place. It filled us up and was better than cold pop-tarts.

After breakfast, we were both ready for a day of hiking. We had recently done a backpacking trip at Overall Run Falls, which is near Mathews Arm. So we decided to drive a bit further and hike a loop trail for Dark Hollow Falls and Rose River, which is close to Big Meadows Campground.

Dinner Time

When we returned to the campground that evening, we had to rely on our fire-building skills and the campsite grill since we had forgotten our stove. We had trouble getting it to light, but a couple in the adjacent site helped us out by giving us some fire starters. And we gratefully headed on to our main course of hot dogs and canned beans. And of course, s’mores!

After our gourmet meal, we cleaned up and slowly made our way toward our tent. We wondered if people would be loud again. To prepare ourselves for what might be a long night, we brought a national parks Trivial Pursuit deck we had bought at a gift shop on one of our adventures. It was a good thing we had something to do, and we were surprised to hear people making noise again until well after midnight.

Somehow, we finally got to sleep.

Campground Layout

In the morning, we packed up and drove around the campground to see whether any other major changes had taken place, aside from the addition of hand soap. It looked like bear boxes had been added to campsites on the perimeter of the campground.

Sites A23 through A53 (odd) seem relatively private. These sites also have pull-through parking rather than back-in, which we prefer. Sites A1 through A15 (odd) are relatively isolated from other sites, but will get more traffic since all vehicles entering the campground have to drive through this area.

All traffic must exit past sites A72 through A116, so there may also be more traffic in this part of the campground. However, the sites on the perimeter of the campground (mostly even-numbered sites) looked spacious.

Final Thoughts

On our way out of the park, we stopped at Apple House, a popular restaurant in Front Royal, Virginia, to grab brunch. The place is well-known for its doughnuts and located close to Shenandoah’s northern entrance. While we munched on pancakes and pulled pork, we discussed our thoughts on the changes to our most-frequented campground. Overall, we couldn’t argue with the changes to the campground itself, namely bear boxes and hand soap. But we were disappointed in the noise and the change in the site reservation system.

We hoped the late-night noise was a fluke. We also questioned why the denser sites are reservable, while the quiet, less-dense sites are walk-in only. We’ll probably go back and try for a walk-in site, but I wouldn’t stay in the C-loop again. I might reserve a site on the B-loop in hopes that it would be quieter. Either way, we hope our next visit to Mathews Arm Campground is more peaceful.

Mathews Arm Campground | 167 Campsites

• Location: Shenandoah National Park, Northern District, Skyline Drive Mile Marker 22.1 (Google Maps Directions)
• Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Bear Boxes on Perimeter Campsites
• Dates Open: Early May – Late October
• Prices: $15/night for campsite | $50/night for a group campsite
• Highlights: Closest campground to North Entrance
• Best Sites: Perimeter sites on A loop and generator-free sites on B loop. Avoid C Loop if you’re looking for peace and quiet.
• Notes: Sites B117-B141, C146-C164, and D165-D167 (group sites) can be reserved up to 6 months in advance. Generator-free sites are A42-A64 and B128-B141. Elkwallow Wayside is less than 3 miles away for camping supplies.

Places

• Mathews Arm Campground | Skyline Drive, Mile Marker 22.1
• Elkwallow Wayside | Skyline Drive, Mile Marker 24.1 | Open Sunday – Monday 9am – 6pm, Saturday 9am – 7pm | Breakfast served 9am – 11am, Lunch 11am – Closing | Closed in winter
• Apple House | 4675 John Marshall Hwy, Linden, VA 22642 | Open Monday 7am – 5pm, Tuesday – Sunday 7am – 8pm

Maps

• Mathews Arm Campground Map (NPS)

Links

• Mathews Arm Reservations (Recreation.gov)

The post Mathews Arm Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.