We planned to hike Grinnell Glacier Trail while staying at Many Glacier Hotel in Glacier National Park. The trail provides up-close views of three lakes and three glaciers. While you can hike the entire way from Many Glacier Hotel (11.8 mi) or the nearby trailhead (10.2 miles), another option is to take a boat from the foot of Swiftcurrent Lake, just outside the hotel. We chose the latter option, which shortens the hike to 6.9 miles, while providing another unique view of the area.

Not wanting to leave anything to chance, we booked our boat tickets about four months in advance. There are two morning boats to choose from. The 8:30 option was already full, so we opted for the 9 a.m. There are later boats, but we wanted plenty of time to hike. If you miss the return boat, you can always walk back to Many Glacier Hotel. I can’t overstate the importance of planning ahead when visiting a popular park like Glacier.

The trail and surrounding area are named for American naturalist and writer George Bird Grinnell (1849 – 1938). In 1885, he visited the area, including the glacier that now bears his name. He was also influential in the establishment of Glacier as a national park in 1910. Mount Grinnell, Grinnell Lake, and Upper Grinnell Lake are also named for him.

The day before our hike, we checked out of Fish Creek Campground in West Glacier. We had decided to take the day to whitewater raft along the Middle Fork Flathead River. It was a blast, and Travis only fell in once. Our raftmates were a family of three from Blacksburg, VA. Travis went to Virginia Tech, so we had some good conversation. They mentioned wanting to hike Grinnell Glacier Trail the next day as well, but they didn’t have boat tickets. So we parted ways, wondering if we’d see them on the trail.

Boat Tour Across Swiftcurrent and Josephine Lakes

After our rafting trip, we drove Going to the Sun Road and checked into Many Glacier Hotel. The next morning, we headed to the dock behind the hotel around 8:30 a.m. to get our tickets. There were people waiting for the boat, and others trying to buy last-minute tickets. About 10 minutes before our tour, they let us board the boat, Chief Two Guns. There were some no-shows, so a few people who were waiting got on as well. In all, there were 50 people including the captain onboard.

Two separate boat rides are included, first across Swiftcurrent Lake, and then across Lake Josephine. A short 0.2 mile hike over a hill connects the two. For the Swiftcurrent portion, our captain was Linnea, the daughter of two Glacier park rangers. She gave a talk about the history of the lodge, geology, and wildlife in the surrounding area, and even pointed out a beaver lodge. She was very knowledgeable, and it was nice to sit back, relax, and learn. During the tour, a few passengers at a time could go out on the bow of the boat to check out the view.

Along the way, the mountain and lake views are stunning. I could just make out Salamander Glacier from the boat. I spotted what I thought was a waterfall, and debated with the other passengers whether it was snow or in fact a waterfall (surprisingly, I was right). Before we knew it, we had docked at the opposite end of the lake.

After our quick five minute hike, we found ourselves on the shore of Lake Josephine. Our next boat, Morning Eagle, was waiting. It was a quick trip across the lake. Along the way we saw hikers on the trail adjacent to the lake, which reminded us that there are options if you aren’t able to get boat tickets. At the final dock near the head of Lake Josephine, we passed a shelter area where passengers can wait for the boat. There’s a pit toilet nearby too, but it was in poor shape (hopefully it’s been repaired by now).

Josephine Walk

It was time to officially start our hike. Our route first skirted the head of Lake Josephine. We passed an intersection with a trail that goes directly to Grinnell Lake. However, we took the more leisurely route along a narrow boardwalk in a boggy area. Travis spotted a frog and some orchids along this section. We then crossed a bridge over Cataract Creek, which flows into Lake Josephine.

The boardwalk continues after the bridge, and we came to an intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail. We turned left, away from the lake, and shortly came to another intersection with Grinnell Glacier Trail. This is where the route joins the main trail.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Here, the trail rapidly ascends up switchbacks. The tree cover becomes less dense as the elevation increases. This day would turn out to be the hottest that we experienced in the park, in the low 90s Fahrenheit. The heat, plus the lack of shade, made this one of the hardest hikes we did in Glacier.

We took a quick break in the shade of a pine tree, and the fresh fragrance lingered in the air. I had no idea it smelled so good – sweet and floral, nothing like artificial pine scent. There were panoramic views of Lake Josephine, and Grinnell Lake became visible as we continued on. Looking behind us, we could see Swiftcurrent Lake. We imagined how glaciers carved out the valleys over thousands of years. The views are unreal, and totally worth it even if you don’t hike all the way to Grinnell Glacier.

The views get even better as we ascended. Waterfalls and wildflowers were everywhere. Perhaps the most interesting plant we saw was bear grass, a distinctive puffy white wildflower. We crossed a few streams flowing across the trail. I was wearing a buff around my neck to prevent sunburn, so I dipped it in a stream and then draped it back around my neck to cool off. Highly recommend.

Not surprisingly, the trail was crowded. The vast majority of hikers greeted us, and were considerate, particularly where the trail was narrow. Conversely, there were a couple people who just plowed ahead.

Suddenly, we spotted some familiar faces: our friends from whitewater rafting the previous day! They were heading down while we were heading up. We were impressed since they had hiked the whole way, and clearly made it to Grinnell Glacier well before us. We said hi, and would have chatted further, but the trail was too narrow and crowded to hold an extended conversation.

As we hiked, snowmelt created many small waterfalls along the trail. One waterfall flowed directly onto the trail, so we were pretty much guaranteed to get wet. There was kind of a way to go around it, but most people didn’t bother, since it was a hot and sunny day. We stowed our camera gear, then we went for it. The water was very refreshing, but if it had been a cool or windy day, we would have tried to go around.

At this point, we were almost directly above Grinnell Lake, which was a gorgeous shade of aquamarine. A few patches of snow came into view as we gained elevation, and we spotted some glacial lilies nearby. The panoramic views along this trail showcase the mountains, lakes, glaciers, trees, and striking topography of the area.

After about 2.7 miles on Grinnell Glacier Trail, we arrived at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area, which boasts benches, trees (yay shade), and two pit toilets. It’s the main stop before the climb to Upper Grinnell Lake and the glaciers, so it was unsurprisingly crowded. Some people were eating lunch here. We had planned to eat lunch by one of the glaciers, so we took a short break before continuing on.

Grinnell Glacier

From the picnic area, we quickly made it 0.4 miles to the top. We stood above Upper Grinnell Lake, enjoying the view. Looking up, we saw Salamander Glacier. To our left was Grinnell Glacier, or rather, what remained of it. Salamander used to be part of Grinnell Glacier, but they separated due to melting sometime before 1929. Between 1966 and 2015, Grinnell Glacier lost almost 45% of its area, which contributed to forming Upper Grinnell Lake. Salamander has lost about 23% in the same period. Currently, there are only 26 active glaciers left in the park (to be considered active, a glacier must to be larger than 25 acres).

We headed closer to the lake, which is a brilliant blue color due to glacial flour. Waterfalls ran down the side of the mountains into the lake, and large ice chunks floated on the water. To the south is Mount Gould, and to the north is Mount Grinnell. The Highline Trail runs on the other side of a rock feature called the Garden Wall. From the Highline Trail, hikers can take Garden Wall Trail to an overlook above Grinnell Glacier. Gem Glacier, the smallest named glacier in the park, is situated below Mount Gould and above Grinnell Glacier. In fact, it’s so small now at around 5 acres, that it’s no longer considered an active glacier.

It was pleasantly cool due to the lake and glaciers, so we took the opportunity to relax and eat lunch with a view. While we had reached the end of the official trail, there are plenty of social trails and viewing areas for a closer look. Visitors should avoid walking on Grinnell Glacier itself (or any glacier), as there are hidden crevices that you can fall into.

After soaking up views of the lake and glaciers, we started our journey back down. The three lakes we passed earlier – Grinnell, Josephine, and Swiftcurrent – aligned in the valley below as we descended. The view of these three lakes surrounded by mountains is perhaps one of Glacier’s most iconic.

On the way down, we talked to a hiker who mentioned a bear sighting on the trail ahead. Another hiker later on mentioned that a park ranger had scared it away, so we didn’t end up seeing it. It’s extremely helpful to share any relevant safety information with other hikers, and we found ourselves doing the same on other trails throughout our trip.

We completed our hike relatively quickly, since we planned to return before the last boat departed at 5:15 pm. We arrived at the dock around 4:50 pm, where there were a number of people waiting and enjoying the sun and scenery. Round-trip ticket holders (like us) have priority, though you can also get a one-way ticket. If the boat couldn’t accommodate everyone, it would return as necessary.

The boat pulled up at 5:15 pm. It was completely full, and only about 20 passengers got off. We were able to board, but some people had to wait for the boat to return. Now that I think about it, a boat ride to the head of Lake Josephine, followed by a 3.2 mile hike back to Many Glacier Hotel, would make for a nice afternoon excursion.

We arrived back at the hotel ravenous and tired, but happy. We immediately hopped in the car and drove about 5 minutes to Nell’s at Swiftcurrent to grab some dinner. Despite the crowds, the hike to Grinnell Glacier was a great opportunity to see and learn a lot. It’s arguably the easiest glacier to access in the park, and the boat ride adds another element of interest. Even if you’re only in the park for a short time, I highly recommend this dayhike.

Grinnell Glacier Trail

Date: Tuesday, July 23, 2019
Type: Dayhike Out and Back
Total Distance: 6.9 miles (11.2 km) from the boat dock. 10.2 miles (16.4 km) from trailhead.
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1824 feet (556 m) from Boat Dock. 1969 feet (600 meters) from trailhead.
Time: 9 hours total, including boat and hiking. Active hiking time was 7 hours. The boat ride from Many Glacier to Lake Josephine (including both legs plus the short hike) is about an hour, each way.
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: High
Water: Lakes, streams, and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, glaciers, water features, boardwalk, marsh, wildflowers, lakes
Directions to Trailhead: Grinnell Glacier Trailhead
Notes: We recommend taking the boat if you can, but the longer hike from Grinnell Glacier Trailhead is also a good option

Trail Directions – From Lake Josephine Boat Dock

• 0.0 mi – From the boat dock on Lake Josephine, walk 150 feet on Josephine Walk Trail. Keep right to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Horse Trail. After another 150 feet, continue straight to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Foot Trail. The trail will transition to a boardwalk temporarily. Follow signs for Grinnell Glacier.
• 0.2 mi – Cross over Cataract Creek on a bridge that flows into Lake Josephine
• 0.3 mi – At the intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail, keep left on Josephine Walk Trail
• 0.4 mi – Turn left onto Grinnell Glacier Trail
• 3.1 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 3.5 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier. When done exploring, head back down the way you came.
• 3.8 mi – Arrive back at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 6.5 mi – Turn right onto Josephine Walk Trail
• 6.6 mi – At the intersection with North Shore Josephine Lake Trail, keep right to stay on Josephine Walk Trail
• 6.7 mi – Cross the bridge over Cataract Creek
• 6.9 mi – At the intersection with Grinnell Lake Foot Trail, continue straight to stay on Josephine Walk Trail. After 150 feet, turn left to stay on Josephine Walk Trail at the intersection with Grinnell Lake Horse Trail. Go another 150 feet to reach Lake Josephine Dock, where you can wait for the boat.

Trail Directions – From Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

• 0.0 mi – From the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead, head south on Swiftcurrent Lake Trail
• 0.8 mi – Pass the dock at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake, then turn left onto North Shore Josephine Lake Trail
• 1.7 mi – At the fork, keep right to go onto Grinnell Glacier Trail
• 2.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Josephine Walk Trail
• 4.8 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 5.1 mi – Arrive at Grinnell Glacier. When done exploring, head back down the way you came.
• 5.4 mi – Arrive back at Grinnell Glacier Picnic Area
• 8.2 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Josephine Walk Trail
• 8.5 mi – Continue straight onto North Shore Josephine Walk Trail
• 9.4 mi – Turn left onto Swiftcurrent Lake Trail. Pass the dock at the south end of Swiftcurrent Lake.
• 10.2 mi – Back at the Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

Maps

• Grinnell Glacier Trail Map (KTNP)
• Many Glacier Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Grinnell Glacier Trailhead (NPS)
• Grinnell Glacier Historical Photos (NPS)
• USGS Glacier Status

Elevation Graph – From Lake Josephine Boat Dock

Elevation Graph – From Grinnell Glacier Trailhead

Interactive Map

The post Grinnell Glacier Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Planning and Disappointments

One activity we wanted to do in Crater Lake National Park was to get out on Crater Lake itself. The park does tours of the lake, and also has shuttles to Wizard Island. The island is a 316-acre landmass within Crater Lake and has several hiking trails. Months before our visit, we reserved tickets for the boat tour, including the Wizard Island shuttle.

Visitors can only get to the shoreline of Crater Lake via a steep 2.1 mile trail called Cleetwood Cove. It’s at the northern end of the lake and was constructed in 1962. The trail leads to a boat dock, as well as fishing and swimming areas. In the summer, the lake’s average temperature is 57 degrees Fahrenheit, and I planned to jump in.

When we travel, we typically plan detailed itineraries. Visiting Crater Lake National Park was one of few times when our plans went awry. And it started on day 1. This trip was back in 2017 when the park’s concessionaire was Xanterra, so things could (and hopefully) have changed since then. In 2018 the concessionaire changed to Aramark. Then in 2024, the National Park Service terminated the contract with Aramark due to performance issues, and the current concessionaire is now ExplorUS.

Day 1 – Monday

After wrapping up a better-than-expected visit to Redwood National Park, we drove north to Crater Lake. Kristin was particularly excited about visiting Crater Lake, especially since we had scheduled our boat tour for the following day. But that soon turned to disappointment. A sign at the entrance kiosk stated that all boat tours were cancelled for the day. We asked the ranger at the entrance if he had any info – he didn’t. So we asked a Xanterra employee at Mazama Campground. He didn’t know either.

Concerned that our tickets would be cancelled, we drove up to Crater Lake Lodge. There, an employee told us the Wizard Island shuttles had been cancelled for the season. Since we had combined tickets for both the boat tour and Wizard Island shuttle, our tickets were also cancelled. We’d get a refund, but they didn’t know when lake tours would resume. Supposedly, we should have received a cancellation notice. We hadn’t.

Day 2 – Tuesday

That morning, we woke up early, hoping the boats would be up and running. We went to Annie Creek to attempt to purchase any available lake tour tickets. A sign on the kiosk said that tours were cancelled for that day, too. We talked to two employees who didn’t know anything.

Next, we ran into the director of retail. He told us that the boats had been damaged over the winter due to a leak in the boathouse roof. With only one operational boat, they were unable to run tours. A repair tech was expected on Friday, (then three days out), so it was unlikely that boats would be running before then.

We headed to Crater Lake Lodge (one of few places we had a cell signal) to call Xanterra to ask about boat tour tickets for that Friday or Saturday. They couldn’t get us a reservation, but gave us another number to call. No one answered. Inside the lodge, an employee said there was a list of guests who would be given priority once the boats were up and running, if their tour had been canceled. We were skeptical, but put our names on the list anyway.

For the next few days, we routinely checked in with lodge employees, and were told various pieces of conflicting information. At least they tried to be helpful. In the meantime, we went to hike some nearby trails, like Boundary Springs and Mount Scott.

Day 6 – Saturday

On Saturday evening, we asked lodge employees about the boat tour status (again). We were finally told that boat tour ticket sales would resume the next day, but only for the standard lake tour. No shuttles to Wizard Island. Still, we were overjoyed! The downside was that tickets were only available the next morning at the trailhead of Cleetwood Cove, the trail that leads to the boat dock on Crater Lake.

Day 7 – Sunday

So excited, we woke up early to go get our tickets. As we headed out, we asked the lodge employees (who were starting to get to know us) if there were any updates. They told us that things had changed (surprise, surprise) and now there weren’t any tickets available. The tickets had gone to the people who had booked tours way in advance for that date. Like we had done for our original tickets.

So we went back to our room and went to sleep. Just kidding. We were determined to get on a boat tour. We would at least hike Cleetwood Cove Trail and get a better view of the lake! Maybe glare at some of the folks who were lucky enough to have chosen this date for their tour months ago.

We arrived at the Cleetwood Cove trailhead around 8:15 a.m. The ticket kiosk is in a large parking lot across the street. At the kiosk, an employee reiterated that tickets were sold out. We spoke to the boat manager, who said the same thing. Many other visitors were there complaining, since tickets purchased the previous day were not being honored. It was very confusing!

This was our last day in the park; tomorrow we’d be driving to Bend, Oregon. I got the boat manager’s e-mail, in case tickets became available the following week when we’d still be in the area. With that, we decided to hike down Cleetwood Cove Trail. We had heard there was another kiosk at the bottom, so we figured it couldn’t hurt to check there as well.

Cleetwood Cove Trail

Okay, we’re done complaining for a bit. We started hiking down Cleetwood Cove Trail, a dusty series of switchbacks with great views of Crater Lake. Along the way were a few benches and trees for periodic shade. Sun exposure along the trail is pretty intense, especially as you get closer to the lake.

Since Cleetwood Cove Trail is the only access to Crater Lake, the trail was crowded. Hiking down is easy, but we tried not to think about the hike back up. As we descended, we saw the boat dock and other buildings below. The trail was named after a boat, called the Cleetwood, used to survey the lake in 1886.

When we reached the bottom, we headed straight for the ticket kiosk. There, we asked an employee if tickets were still available. Initially, she said no. After chatting more, she mentioned the possibility of getting on a tour if someone doesn’t show. So she could add our names to a waitlist, and we could purchase our tickets at 9:15 if there were at least two no shows.

If we purchased tickets, and the other party showed up at the last minute, their tickets would be honored, not ours. We went for it and asked her to add our names to the waitlist. After thanking her profusely, we walked over to the shore and watched people jump into the lake.

At 9:15, we returned to the kiosk, as our new friend had recommended. She asked us to wait as they checked everyone in. We waited…fingers crossed. And finally. Finally. Our persistence (and being annoying) paid off. Three people didn’t show up, so we were able to buy tickets! We boarded the boat, and nervously looked toward Cleetwood Cove Trail, hoping the original ticket purchasers weren’t coming down. They weren’t, and we were off!

A Lake Tour

Finally, we were out on the lake…it was an ordeal to get there! The boat began its counter-clockwise circumnavigation of the lake, which would take two hours. We got to hear from Park Ranger Margaret, who provided historical and geological information about the lake and surrounding area.

A man named William Gladstone Steel campaigned for 17 years to persuade congress to designate Crater Lake as a national park. To promote the park, he gave features interesting names to attract tourists. Ranger Margaret pointed out a rocky ridge called Devil’s Backbone – a feature named by Steel. We saw other rock features named after an elephant’s trunk, a wine glass, and many other objects of our imagination.

The boat paused at various points, giving Ranger Margaret an opportunity to elaborate on the history and geology of the area. As the boat sped up to get to the next viewpoint, Ranger Margaret moved around and chatted with passengers. Turns out we grew up in the same area, near Roanoke, VA!

As the boat traveled past the tree-covered Wizard Island, we caught a glimpse of a rocky beach and dock. We were tempted to jump in and swim for it. Like Devil’s Backbone, Wizard Island was named by William Steel to promote tourism. It’s the largest island in Crater Lake, and the only place you can swim other than the dock area at Cleetwood Cove.

Crater Lake is formed entirely by snowmelt – there are no streams, creeks, or rivers flowing into it. Ranger Margaret pointed out a landslide area that had formed a shelf above the lake, which collects snow during winter. As the temperature warms, it melts to form many beautiful waterfalls. When the boat slowed down, we could hear water cascading into the lake.

We continued on to an island known as Phantom Ship. The boat sailed around the rocky yet colorful lichen-covered formation. As we went around it, we saw a rocky shelf in the water below us. Suddenly, the shelf dropped off into a dark blue expanse.

Ranger Margaret passed out a Secchi disk – a tool used to determine the visual clarity of the lake. Crater Lake is strikingly clear. And it’s so clean that you can drink the water without filtering. Ranger Margaret offered to fill up water bottles to drink directly from the lake. Sadly, we didn’t have any bottles with us, only hydration bladders in our backpacks. Next time…?

There are typically three boats that operate on Crater Lake, each named after a nearby river – Klamath, Umpqua, and Rogue. Today, only two were in service, one of which was on standby in case of an emergency. Also, capacity for each boat is limited to only 38 people.

As the boat arrived back at the harbor, we were satisfied, even though we didn’t make it to Wizard Island. It was amazing to see the lake from a different vantage point. The tour was very informative and we highly recommend it!

Swimming in Crater Lake

We decided to fully immerse ourselves in Crater Lake – literally. Lots of people were at Cleetwood Cove and many were in the water. I wanted to jump in, so we went to a small cliff by the restrooms where others were jumping off. We watched, as I mentally prepared. The 20 foot drop seems much greater when you’re up there, but I was determined.

I walked up to the cliff, and looked back at Kristin. Camera in hand, she nodded to indicate that she was recording. Looking down at the water, I was scared. But it was now or never. I jumped off the cliff. It was exhilarating in the air…and then the cold water shocked me as I plunged in. Underwater, I felt disoriented for a moment, since I had to keep my eyes closed so my contacts wouldn’t fall out.

Surfacing, I headed to shore. I looked up at Kristin. She yelled down to me, “it didn’t record – you have to do it again!” Everyone within earshot area laughed. She wasn’t joking. I got out of the water, slightly exasperated. I had to do it again. The second time was easier than the first, and I made sure water didn’t get into my nose this time.

Kristin’s turn. But she decided to wade in. She hates the cold, but turns out the water wasn’t as cold as she expected. Perhaps because she chose a shallow area? We dried off, and put on our boots to hike back up Cleetwood Cove Trail. The trail was grueling with switchbacks, elevation gain, and hot weather. Every so often we stopped at a bench to rest. You can equate hiking back up to climbing 65 flights of stairs.

When we got back to the parking lot, it was packed. Good thing we had gotten there early. And with that, our lake adventure was over. It was an experience – both the tour itself, and getting on the boat in the first place. Hopefully the change of concessionaires to Aramark has alleviated some of the communication issues. Someday, we’ll be back to visit Wizard Island.

Cleetwood Cove Trail itself wasn’t that interesting, but it boasts close-up views of Crater Lake. The Crater Lake tour was informative, breathtaking, and provided a perspective of the lake you can only get from a boat. We highly recommend it, if you can get tickets.

Cleetwood Cove Trail

Date: Sunday, July 30, 2017
Type: Out and Back Dayhike
Total Distance: 2.1 miles (3.4 km) round-trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 816 feet (249 m)
Time: 20-25 minutes to descend, 30-35 minutes to ascend
Trail Markings: None
Difficulty: Easy on the way down, moderate on the way back
Crowds: Yes
Water: Crater Lake view and access
Highlights: Views, Swimming, Boat Tour, Unique Experience
Directions to Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the trailhead, follow the trail as it descends
• 0.9 – You’ve reached the bottom. You can take a side trail to the dock, or continue to a swimming area.
• 1.0 – The trail ends near the restrooms and swimming area. Jump in the lake (or watch others jump in), then head back up when you’re ready.
• 2.1 – Back at the trailhead

Places

• Cleetwood Cove Trailhead | 42.9797531, -122.0837881
• Cleetwood Cove Dock | 42.9771349, -122.0880832

Links

• Cleetwood Cove (NPS)
• Devil’s Backbone (Crater Lake Institute)
• Llao Rock (Crater Lake Institute)
• Wizard Island (Wikipedia)

Maps

• Cleetwood Cove Trail Map (KTNPBlog)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Cleetwood Cove Trail and Boat Tour appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Soon we were back in Stonington.  And hungry.  We got a recommendation from the mail boat captain to visit a nearby restaurant called Whale’s Rib Tavern. After driving about 15 minutes, we discovered that they didn’t open until 5 pm.  So we headed back to Stonington.  There aren’t a ton of options, so we thought we’d revisit Fisherman’s Friend.  Which was also closed.  So we ended up at Harbor Cafe, on Main Street in Stonington.  We didn’t expect much, but it was just what we needed.  It was cozy and simply decorated with a partial view of the harbor.  For more details, check out our Stonington post.  After lunch, we started the hour and a half drive back to MDI.  And our next stop:  Seawall Campground.

Seawall Campground would be our lodging for the next two nights.  It’s located on the western half of MDI, which is slower paced, and there are fewer hikes and attractions.  But there’s still plenty to see and do.  As we drove along, we passed through Southwest Harbor on MDI, and then a residential area with firewood for sale, until we met the magnificent Maine coast again.  And then we arrived at the campground.  Like Blackwoods, this is a big campground with over 200 sites.

Unlike Blackwoods, we could reserve a specific site.  Ours was D-015, which had a short hike in.  We parked our car, grabbed our gear, and then headed to the site to set up our tent.  It was a bit of a maze to find our site, with paths going in every direction.  When researching Seawall, we had read that the sites there had more room and were more private than those of Blackwoods, so we were excited to have more peace and quiet.  And we felt it fit with the relaxed atmosphere of MDI’s western side.

After turning around a few times, we found our site.  We were again disappointed because our campsite didn’t have the privacy we were searching for.  Compared to Blackwoods, we were even closer to our neighbors.  We had made a mistake, one that clouded our view of Seawall a bit.

What had happened?  There are four loops in Seawall: A, B, C, and D.  Later on in our journey, we drove through the other loops to compare, and realized that if you want that private campsite, you want loops A or B.  Avoid C and D, unless you’re okay not having much privacy.

During our research of Seawall, we had seen something about the A and B loops being the best.  We had tried to reserve one there, but they booked up fast, so make sure you get your reservations early for those loops.  We thought C and D wouldn’t be too bad, and they’re not, but at that point in our trip we almost wished we had just booked a hotel.  At least it was relatively quiet, despite being crowded.

After setting up our tent, we went to take showers (we were overdue after spending 3 nights at Duck Harbor).  Thankfully, we knew just where to go, since we had passed the Seawall Camp Store on the drive in.  We were happy to arrive before closing…and to see the sign out front that read “Hot Showers.”

There are two shower rooms, separated by gender.  While there’s no toilet in the shower room, there is a port-o-potty out front.  Additionally there was a sink and a bench/sill area where you can put your things while getting ready.  Each room had 3 shower stalls, with a “dry” area that you go into first and lock, so you can keep your things dry and secure.  Be careful, it could be slippery since there was some water in that area.  Also, we had brought flip flops and towels, which we would recommend.  We’re not sure whether they had towels available at the camp store, but we figured we’d prefer to use our own regardless.

And I did have a gloriously hot shower… except that I had to stick three quarters in a machine every two minutes to extend my shower time.  And no, you can’t insert more money ahead of time.  Finally clean, we browsed the camp store, and bought oatmeal packets for breakfast the next day.  It was late, so we grabbed some dinner in Southwest Harbor before heading back to our campsite for the night.

Overall, we liked Seawall Campground, and would come back – if we got loop A or B.  Like Blackwoods, it’s a good home base to explore the surrounding area.

Seawall Campground | 212 Campsites | 5 Group Sites
Location: Mt. Desert Island, 4 miles south of Southwest Harbor (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire ring | Picnic Table | Flushable Toilet
Dates Open: Late May to the end of September
Prices: $22/night walk-in tent sites | $30/night drive-up tent, camper, and motor home sites | $60 group tent sites
Highlights: Close to attractions on MDI’s west side, clean and quiet
Notes:  Check-out: 10am | Advance reservations recommended | Get loop A or B, avoid C and D

Places:
Seawall Campground | 668 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
Seawall Camping Supplies | 536 Seawall Rd, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679

Maps:
Seawall Campground Map

Links:
NPS Website – Acadia Camping
Recreation.gov – Seawall Reservations

The post Seawall Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

“Kill Nothing but Time…
Take Nothing but Pictures…
Leave Nothing but Tracks…”

– Anonymous (Posted on Duck Harbor Campground Shelters)

Exploring Duck Harbor Campground

Duck Harbor Campground sits within Acadia National Park, on an island called Isle au Haut.  To get there, you must take a small mail boat from the mainland.  In return, you get a secluded campground, great hiking, and an amazing experience.  Isle au Haut is not a place most visitors to Acadia go to.  Our boat trip to the island was uneventful, but exhilarating at the same time.  We disembarked from the boat with all our gear in tow.  We had thought about using our backpacking gear, but decided against it to give ourselves more flexibility.  Most of the departing campers we saw had backpacking backpacks, but our daypacks, duffels, and small cooler met our needs.

Our small, hard-sided cooler (which we purchased at Walmart) held some ice and fresh foods like veggies, hotdogs, and hummus.  Just in case, we brought a dehydrated meal too, but didn’t end up using it.  There’s no camp store here, so you have to pack everything in that you’d need (unless you want to hike 4 miles to the nearest general store).  Lastly, we brought minimal water, relying on the water pump near camp.

One of the park rangers, Allison, greeted us on the dock.  She explained the rules and proceeded to show us the campground.  There is always a ranger to greet visitors at the campground, rain or shine, at both the morning and afternoon boat drop-offs.  Allison and the other rangers were friendly and helpful, which was great since we ran into them often during our stay!

Duck Harbor Campground has 5 shelter sites, and two shared compostable pit toilets.  There was even hand sanitizer inside the bathrooms.  For day-visitors to Duck Harbor, there’s a third compostable bathroom near the trailhead to Duck Harbor Mountain.  Each campsite is equipped with a shelter, fire ring, and picnic table.  Each site also has a food storage box, since rodents have been known to get into food that’s not properly secured.  In addition, there is firewood available for campers, though you can also collect downed branches for tinder or get some pre-chopped wood at the wood chopping machine.  When we arrived, there was already firewood under our shelter for us.

There’s also an old hand water pump for getting potable water. It’s about a ⅓ mile hike from the campground. It looks ancient, like it won’t work or that the water would be nasty, but it’s fine.  The rangers told us that the water quality is checked every year to make sure it’s potable, though it does have a distinct taste of iron.  Iron Water would make a great new name for a brand of bottled water.  Or maybe not.

To improve your experience at the water pump, we recommend straining water through a bandanna and into your water bottle / jug / hand / mouth.  We found that worked to reduce sediment in the water, though it’ll still taste like iron and have a cloudy yellowish haze.  There are also many places the water can come out of – it’s kind of intriguingly confusing.  In the end, we pulled up on a knob, which filled a tank that released water out the bottom – your mileage may vary as to the best method to use the pump.  But that’s part of the fun

When it comes to the shelters, each one has a variety of shelving and hooks for storage, and a broom to sweep off the wooden floor.  Every shelter is different: some have better views, some have more privacy, some have more seating, etc.  On another blog, we had read that sites 4 or 5 had the best views, which we agree with, but each site has its charms.

Luckily, only one site was taken when arrived and we were the only ones on the mail boat… so we got our pick of sites 2 through 5!  The rest of the campers came on a later boat, which we attribute to a mail boat schedule change.  Allison, the park ranger, said we were also lucky to have gotten 3 nights since the campground was completely booked for the season.  By the way, reserving a campsite is a bit of a process.

How to Reserve a Camp Site

[04/05/18 Update: The National Park Service has changed how you reserve a campsite.  Out with mailing a letter, and in with online reservations through recreation.gov.  I actually got an email from the park about the reservation change since I had previously made reservations.  So this section is out-of-date, but I’m leaving it here for reference.  Online reservations begin every year on April 1 @ 10am EST.  This is a good change – mailing the reservation was a pain.  Also, you can now choose your campsite before you even get there!  Good luck!]

First, you must send a letter to the park service – no email, fax, or calling.  Old fashioned snail mail.  When you send in the reservation form, you’ll specify three possible date ranges and the number of nights.  You can stay a maximum of three nights, which is what we recommend and did.  On the form, we did add a note that we were okay with fewer nights if we couldn’t get three.  The letter must be postmarked April 1 or later, otherwise the NPS will ignore your letter.  We sent in our letter on April 1 with a $25 check, which is the amount no matter how long you stay.

The days ticked by, and we were nervously awaiting the return letter.  Would we get our requested dates?  Did the park service even receive our letter?  Maybe the USPS lost it?  Thankfully, we got a letter from the park service on April 14 – two weeks after we had sent ours.  Excitedly, we opened the letter to find out that we had gotten our first choice of dates, with three nights.  Unless you’re very flexible with the dates, I HIGHLY recommend sending in your request on April 1.  Most campers we talked to were not able to get their exact choice of dates or even three nights.

Now, that’s how to reserve a campsite.  But you also have to get to the campground, and unless you have your own boat, you’ll be taking a ferry.  Specifically, the Isle Au Haut mailboat that travels from Stonington, ME to Duck Harbor.  Check out our Stonington post for more info on the mail boat.

Comparing Campsites

So, which campsite did we choose?  Well, which site looks best to you?

Site 1

Site 2

Site 3

Site 4

Site 5

We chose site 4 – great location, great views.  Site 5 was also excellent, but a bit further from the bathroom.  Site 1 was taken.  Sites 2 and 3 were nice, but proximity to the ocean won out.  The only negative was that previous campers had carved out a path to our site in the grass, and a few visitors mistakenly ended up in our site.  We warmly welcomed them… then mentioned it to the rangers, who were already fixing some signage to mediate the problem.

Site 1 – Most inland, less breeze, close to bathroom, fairly private
Site 2 – More inland, less breeze, close to bathroom
Site 3 – Close to bathroom, close to other campsites
Site 4 – Great views, good location, close to bathroom, close to other campsites, access to coastline
Site 5 – Most remote and private, bit farther from bathroom, great views, access to coastline

So, we settled in and made our shelter a home.  We thought we would just relax – we even told the Park Rangers that was our plan for the day.  And we did, for an hour or so.  But we only had a few days here and wanted to make the most of it, so it was time for another adventure.  Duck Harbor Mountain loomed behind us…

We loved Duck Harbor Campground.  It was probably our favorite adventure in Acadia, and that’s saying a lot, with so many awesome attractions in the park.  The campground was very clean, mostly private, and had amazing views.  We enjoyed just resting in our hammock and watching the sun set, or reading a book with the sea breeze blowing gently around us.  Often, we’d go down to the coastline and eat our breakfast or dinner on a rock.  And there are a lot of great trails to explore just minutes away!  And if you were wondering, we did indeed see actual ducks at Duck Harbor!  So the harbor is aptly named.  Quack.  Quack.

Duck Harbor Campground | 5 Shelter Sites

Location: Isle au Haut (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable water available via an old hand pump located ⅓ mile from the campground| Fire ring | Picnic Table | Composting Toilet | Food Storage Box
Dates Open: May 15 to October 15
Prices: $25 / stay | Maximum stay: 3 nights
Highlights: Right next to the coast, solitude, hiking trails nearby
Notes:  Check-out: 11am | Advance Reservations Required – reservation requests must be mailed on or after April 1

Links

Duck Harbor Campground Reservations at Recreation.gov
Isle au Haut 2014 Visitor Use Management Plan
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

Interactive Map

The post Duck Harbor Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Our journey to Isle au Haut began in Bar Harbor, where we had just gone kayaking and checked out of Blackwoods Campground.  We headed to Stonington, a small town on Deer Isle off the Maine coast.  Stonington is the “gateway” to Isle au Haut, since a mail boat travels between the two.  It’s an easy 1.5 hour drive to Stonington from Bar Harbor.  There aren’t many grocery store options in or close to Stonington, so we grabbed everything we needed along the way at a Walmart.

Stonington

We planned to stay in Stonington for one night, before catching the mail boat to Duck Harbor the next morning.  Our lodging for the night was at Boyce’s Motel, a quaint spot on the coast, that we would heartily recommend.   The room was small, but it was clean and well-maintained.  The price was right, and our room even had a fridge to store some goodies for our trip.

Since we desperately needed to do laundry, the proprietor of Boyce’s pointed us toward Island Laundromat on Deer Isle, about 10 minutes from Stonington.  Bring quarters!  We also brought detergent in single-use boxes, but there is a machine that will dispense some as well.  Check the hours – it isn’t open very late.  If you go, set aside extra time, and be aware that the machines are pretty old.  Some of our clothes were sopping wet after the wash cycle, and needed additional dryer time.  It was a bit annoying, but in the end the laundromat served its purpose.  We stopped by the laundromat again after returning from Isle au Haut.

Next stop: dinner.  There aren’t many restaurant choices in Stonington (surprise!), but we had researched options beforehand using Yelp and other sources.  We didn’t know quite what to expect, but we decided to check out Fisherman’s Friend, a restaurant located on the pier and walkable from Boyce’s.  K got the fish tacos, which were amazing. She really liked the remoulade sauce, and she ordered extra (naturally). I got the fish and chips, which were good too.  They have outdoor seating, but we ate inside since it was a bit chilly that evening. We had a partial view of the pier from our table.  Also, they had hard cider and a decent selection of craft beers, which was a nice treat.  Overall, good food and service, and decent prices. K says, GET THE FISH TACOS!!! (Note: Fisherman’s Friend is now closed, and will be re-opening as Stonecutter’s Kitchen).

A few days later, we wanted to eat here again after returning from Isle Au Haut, but found out that they were closed on Wednesdays.  Instead, we went down the street to Harbor Cafe.  The food was simple but surprisingly good.  K got the fried haddock sandwich, and I had the turkey club.  Both meals came with fries.  The hostess and server was both very friendly.  The beer selection was limited, but overall, this was what we needed after 3 days of camping.  A piece of blueberry pie didn’t hurt either.

After our dinner at Fisherman’s Friend, we wandered around town, taking photos and enjoying the atmosphere of a quintessential Maine fishing town.  We also wanted to locate the mail boat dock, since we planned to arrive there early the next day.  We eventually found it, only 0.2 miles from Boyce’s.  Stonington was a highlight of our trip; it is a relaxing, quaint town that we’ll remember for a long time.

The Mail Boat to Isle au Haut

We woke up early the next morning to catch the mail boat at 8:00 am.  We made some oatmeal, packed up our gear, and headed to the dock to get there at least 30 minutes ahead of time.  Originally, our boat was supposed to leave at 10:30 am, but the company switched the times due to problems with one of their boats.  Thankfully, the National Park Service had emailed us a few weeks ahead of time to notify us of the change.  The earlier departure time was actually a boon in the end since we had fewer people on our boat (more groups arrived on the afternoon boat).

After getting out the door, we drove to the nearest convenience store (next to Fisherman’s Friend) to get ice for our cooler.  Our fresh food properly refrigerated, we drove to the Isle au Haut Mail Boat dock.  There, we bought two roundtrip boat tickets for $40 each – you can’t reserve them in advance.  We were then directed to park our car on the dock, where we could leave it for three nights.  The dock had a cart that we used to load our luggage onto the boat.  And we were ready to hit the waves and head to Isle au Haut!

At this point, we were the only ones at the dock.  By the time the boat left, one other couple had arrived to make the journey with us.  But that was it, so it was a quiet ride.  The boat set off from the dock, and we were on our way.  Our boat passed enumerable little rocky islands, many with trees, some with houses, all surrounded by lobster traps.  We took endless photos, but at some point we just relaxed and enjoyed the scenery.

After about an hour, the first stop was Isle au Haut Town on the northern end of the island.  We could have departed here, and backpacked the approximately 4.0 miles to the campground, but had chosen to go directly there.  We would visit the town later on a dayhike during our stay.  The other couple got off here, so we were now the lone passengers for the remainder of the ride to Duck Harbor.

It’s a quick 20 minute boat ride to Duck Harbor from the town.  Along the way, we saw Robinson Point Lighthouse – a beautiful sight on the rocky coast.  The captain of our boat informed us that you can actually stay there at Keeper’s House Inn… for $450 a night!  That’s a bit beyond what we’d be willing to pay personally, but would make for a neat stay.  Soon we rounded Eben’s Head, a rocky outcropping just before Duck Harbor.  And there, at last, was the Duck Harbor Landing pier!  Several people were waiting there, including a Park Ranger who would greet us, and other visitors waiting to take the boat back to Stonington.

Places:
Isle au Haut Mailboat | 37 Seabreeze Ave, Stonington, ME 04681
Boyce’s Motel | 44 Main St, Stonington, ME 04681
Fisherman’s Friend/Stonecutter’s Kitchen  | 5 Atlantic Ave, Stonington, ME 04681
Harbor Cafe | 36 Main St, Stonington, ME 04681 | Open 6 AM to 8:30 PM
Island Laundromat | 44.21609, -68.68925 (There’s no address that I could find) | Open 8 AM to 6 PM

References:
NPS Isle au Haut
Wikipedia Isle au Haut
Isle au Haut 2014 Visitor Use Management Plan

Maps:
Isle au Haut Map (KTNPBlog)
Isle au Haut Map (NPS)

The post Stonington to Isle au Haut appeared first on KTNPBlog.