We don’t go backpacking too often in the middle of summer (travels aside). But we had a free weekend, and we wanted to test out some new gear and get in shape for an upcoming trip to Glacier NP. So it was back to Shenandoah National Park for a quick one-nighter.

Initially we wanted to hike Jeremy’s Run, one of our favorite backpacking routes in the park. In reading some trip reports, it seemed like the trail could be laden with poison ivy in the summer though, which was a no-go for a fairly sensitive individual like myself. Instead, we decided on a 15.2 mile loop trail in the central district. The loop would go up Nicholson Hollow, past White Rocks, and return on Hannah Run Trail.

Planning

While we hadn’t done this exact loop before, White Rocks is a special place for us – it was the first place we ever went backpacking. It was only a one-night ~5.0 mile round trip from Skyline Drive, but we learned a lot and had a great time. This trip would be longer and more strenuous, at 15.2 miles and 3,742 feet cumulative elevation gain/loss. White Rocks Trail features a few views, and a spur trail leads to a waterfall and cave. We planned to camp near the intersection with that spur trail.

As mentioned, I tested out three pieces of equipment on this hike: Brooks Cascadia trail runners, a Sony a6400 camera, and an REI Flash 55 ultralight backpack. All three items were for slightly different uses compared with my current set of gear, which at the time was a pair of Vasque hiking boots, a Sony RX100 IV camera, and an Osprey Atmos 65 AG backpack.

The route we chose starts on the east side of the park boundary. The closest parking is the Old Rag Parking Lot, which fills up early on weekends. A few days before the trip, I called Shenandoah to ask a few questions. Among other things, the ranger informed me that the park may someday require the use of bear canisters, due to backpackers hanging bear bags incorrectly. That was certainly a surprise to hear! We’ll see if it happens.

Day 1 – Nicholson Hollow Trail

We arrived at the Old Rag Parking Lot at 8:30 a.m. on a Saturday. There was plenty of space, but it was filling up fast. First, we requested a backcountry permit at the ranger booth. Then we hit the… road? If you’ve hiked Old Rag prior to 2020, you’re familiar with walking along Nethers Road for a bit before you reach any trailheads. As of 2020, a new parking lot was built closer to the trailheads, across the street from Nicholson Hollow Trail. But in 2019, we had to walk along the road to get to Nicholson Hollow Trail, which splits off before Old Rag Trail.

A trail intersection marker pointed us down a gravel road off to the right. At the end of the road is a gate, and to its right is the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. The first half mile of the trail goes through private property before entering the park. After about one minute on the trail, we reached our first stream crossing, across Brokenback Run. Nicely laid out rocks provided easy stepping stones. But it had rained recently, so the rocks were wet and the stream was flowing fast and high. Luckily we had our trekking poles to help us balance.

I went first, and Kristin followed. As I reached the middle of the stream, my foot slipped and plunged into the chilly water. Of course. My other foot held onto a rock and I pulled myself out easily, but my shoe, sock, and foot were soaked. It turned out to be a good test of the trail runners. Even with the humidity, the shoes drained and gradually dried as I hiked – they were mostly dry by the time we camped later that night.

Shortly after the first stream crossing was an almost identical second one over Hughes River. Two guys crossed from the opposite direction as we waited. They had parked at Skyline Drive, and were taking Nicholson Hollow Trail to get to Old Rag. That’s one way to do it. When it was our turn to cross, I made sure my footing was secure and we both got across without incident.

After crossing, we continued hiking with Hughes River on our left. Occasional paths led out to the river for a better view. There were waterfalls, rapids, and swimming holes along the way – good opportunities to play around with my Sony a6400 camera. Nicholson Hollow is an enjoyable trail, with gradual elevation gain and a peaceful river next door. Along the way, we crossed into Shenandoah National Park.

After 1.2 miles on Nicholson Hollow Trail, we came to an intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail. This area has several backcountry campsites, though it was too early in the day for us to make camp. Another 0.4 miles later, we turned right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail.

Day 1 – Hazel Mountain and River Trails

While we really enjoyed Nicholson Hollow Trail, we really didn’t enjoy Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. It’s a lot of uphill gain, and the trail is overgrown, narrow, and a bit of a slog. To our left was Short Mountain and to our right, Hot Mountain. For 2.1 miles we climbed up, taking a break for lunch about halfway through.

Upon reaching the intersection with Hazel Mountain Trail, we took a short break. While resting, I looked down at my shin and saw a small insect – a tiny deer tick. Oh, that’s why we don’t hike in Shenandoah as often in the summer. Thankfully, it hadn’t attached yet and I shook it off. After our break, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail.

Hazel Mountain Trail isn’t too interesting, but it’s a good workout as it ascends and descends. After 1.2 miles, we turned right onto Hazel River Trail, which descends 700 feet over 1.8 miles. It was also terribly overgrown. Worried about ticks, I made sure to cover my legs despite the heat and humidity. It was probably my least favorite trail on this route.

Day 1 – White Rocks Trail

Eventually, in what took longer than I thought it should, we reached the junction with White Rocks Trail. We passed a few campsites, crossed Hazel River, and began ascending steadily. It’s a tough ascent initially, but eventually we got to a ridgeline that goes up and down as it spans four summits.

There are limited views along this section. If you can find them, faint side trails on the left lead to rock outcroppings that offer better views. These scenic vistas are considered to be the “white rocks.” Unfortunately for us, we didn’t do a great job of finding them – we bushwhacked a bit, but we may have missed some more obvious areas. Hopefully, next time we’ll do a better job of locating the viewpoints.

After 1.4 miles, we reached the intersection with the Cave/Falls Spur Trail, near where we planned to camp. Years ago, on our first backpacking trip, we stayed at a fairly large and private campsite with a huge rock. Unfortunately, this time it was occupied. So we grabbed another nearby site that seemed comparable, minus the huge rock.

It was nice to take a break and unload our gear. So far, I had really enjoyed using my ultralight REI Flash backpack – it’s super comfortable and definitely weighs less than my old pack. Of course, I plan to keep them both. We set up our tent and grabbed our water filtration supplies.

Day 1 – Cave/Falls Spur Trail

We headed down Cave/Falls Spur Trail, a steep tenth of a mile. The closest water source, Hazel River, is at the bottom, along with beautiful waterfall and cave. As we started to descend, two guys came up and said that the falls and cave “aren’t worth it.” We’ve been there before, and we disagree. Plus, we needed water.

At the bottom of the steep hill, we saw a pool of water with a tiny waterfall. After walking upstream along Hazel River, we spotted a second waterfall, known as Hazel Falls. The waterfall is small, pretty, and secluded. On the opposite side of the trail is a cave that goes back about 10 to 15 feet. Even though it’s shallow, it’s interesting and fun to explore.

Both the falls and cave are picturesque, so we experimented with my new wide-angle camera lens. After snapping way too many photos, we began filtering some water. Suddenly, it started raining gently for about 30 seconds. It cooled us off, and foreshadowed what was to come.

Later that evening, I walked along White Rocks Trail to see if there were any other campsites near us. There were, and I spotted an attempt at a “bear bag.” Except it was just a plastic grocery bag tied to a small branch, right next to a tree trunk, about five feet off the ground. Flashback to the park ranger who said Shenandoah may require bear canisters in the future. Now I see why. C’mon people, hang your bear bags properly.

Back in the tent, we did a tick check. This time we found a deer tick attached near my waist. Ugh, I hate ticks. We removed it, then headed to sleep. We drifted off to the sounds of rain, wind, and thunder.

Day 2 – White Rocks Trail

Around 6:45 a.m., we woke up and the rain had stopped, so we were able to make breakfast. Usually we do oatmeal with nuts, seeds, and fruit, but this time we shared a Mountain House hash dehydrated meal. It tasted pretty good, but we missed the dense calories we get from the oatmeal. We packed up and headed west on White Rocks Trail.

White Rocks Trail ascends initially before leveling out. It’s quite narrow in places, and Kristin was in front of me. I saw her step over a snake, and I asked her if she noticed it. “No…” she said, slightly stunned. I stopped with the snake between us. “It’s okay,” I said. “I don’t think it’s poisonous.”

The snake poked its head out onto the path, and just sat there. Kristin and I both backed away to give the snake its space; it immediately slithered across the trail and was gone. Later we looked it up based on photos I took. It was a copperhead…so much for my theory.

After that excitement, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail. We crossed Hazel River and saw a neat pickerel frog (also poisonous) nearby. As we continued, Kristin and I chatted about all the wildlife we’ve seen while hiking, and lamented never having seen a black bear in Shenandoah in the four years that we’ve been hiking there together.

Shortly after, we heard a noise off to the side, and a black bear stepped onto Hazel Mountain Trail about 100 feet in front of us. “Bear,” I said softly, I didn’t have time to say anything else. It glanced at us, then quietly continued across the trail. The encounter lasted only seconds. I didn’t even have time to get my camera out, but it was exhilarating to see a black bear in the wild.

Day 2 – Hannah Run Trail

At the intersection with Catlett Spur Trail, we continued straight on Hazel Mountain Trail. It’s a muddy, uphill climb and we didn’t notice anything special beyond a few yellow Clintonia wildflowers (which weren’t flowering this time of year). After 1.1 miles that seemed much longer, we turned right onto Catlett Mountain Trail, then immediately left onto Hannah Run Trail. There, we ran into some fellow hikers for the first time that day.

The segment of our hike on Hannah Run Trail was 2.4 miles, with steep ups and downs and a few stream crossings. Along the way were a few remnants left by occupants of the area before it became a park: a fireplace and an old stone wall. We ate lunch on the trail, and I found tick #3 on me; thankfully, Kristin hadn’t found any. At a few points near the end of Hannah Run Trail, it looked like there would be some good views, but the trees always seemed to block them. There would likely be more visibility in spring or fall.

About a half mile away from returning to Nicholson Hollow Trail, I felt a popping sensation under my knee, and it started hurting like hell. I could barely move without grimacing, and I had no idea what went wrong. Somehow, we made it to Nicholson Hollow, and found a campsite where I took a break. It helped a bit, and I managed to make it back to our car.

At home, we did a thorough tick check, then showered. That’s when Kristin spotted a tiny deer tick on her leg. Even after checking AND showering! We quickly removed it, and remained vigilant for the next 24 hours or so. As for my knee, it continued hurting for the next week, so I saw my doctor and was told I strained my hamstring. I headed to a physical therapist so I could survive our upcoming trip to Glacier National Park.

Now for my opinion on the gear I tried out. The Brooks Cascadia trail runners, while not having the same amount of grip as my boots, were definitely lighter and dried quickly. The REI Flash lightweight backpack was also a winner; in the end it was more comfortable than my Osprey Atmos AG. We’ll see if that’s still the case with continued use. And while the Sony a6400 took great photos, I realized that I hate changing lenses, so that one is still to be determined.

Overall, the hike was enjoyable. Our favorite sections were Nicholson Hollow, White Rocks, and the Cave/Falls Trail. There are some cozy campsites, though it was disheartening to see how some campers hung their food and other scented items when there are bears nearby. The wildlife we saw also made the trip rather memorable. Spring and fall are probably ideal seasons for this route – if you go in the summer, make sure to stay on the lookout for ticks.

Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow

Date: Saturday, June 29, 2019 – Sunday, June 30, 2019
Type: 1 Night Backpacking Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 15.2 miles (24.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3742 feet (1141 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 8.2 miles (13.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 2650 feet (808 m) gain, 1538 feet (469 m) loss
  • Time: 6.5 hours, which includes lunch and occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A backcountry campsite near the intersection of White Rocks Trail and Cave/Falls Spur Trail
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 7.0 miles (11.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1092 feet (333 m) gain, 2204 feet (671 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Multiple streams and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, history, waterfalls
Directions to Old Rag Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Old Rag parking lot, head 0.1 miles west on Nethers Road. At the fork, turn right onto a gravel road (there’s a trail marker at the fork). After 170 feet you’ll see the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead on your right. Start your hike here. Two stream crossings will come in short succession after hiking 125 feet.
• 1.2 mi – At the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail, continue straight.
• 1.7 mi – Turn right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. This trail has the steepest incline on the route.
• 3.8 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 4.3 mi – Continue straight on Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Catlett Mountain Trail
• 4.8 mi – Continue on yellow-blazed Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Sam’s Ridge Trail
• 5.0 mi – Turn right onto Hazel River Trail, which will descend steeply
• 6.4 mi – Turn left onto White Rocks Trail. About 0.1 miles in, you’ll cross Hazel River and start ascending. The trail follows a ridgeline that goes up and down four summits.
• 8.2 mi – Intersection with Cave/Falls Spur Trail, which leads down to Hazel Falls. There are several campsites in the area, which is where we stayed. Go down Cave/Falls Spur Trail to a water source, Hazel Falls, and a cave.
• 9.3 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 9.8 mi – Turn right onto blue-blazed Catlett Spur Trail
• 10.9 mi – Turn right onto Catlett Mountain Trail and go 230 feet, then turn left onto Hannah Run Trail.
• 13.4 mi – Turn left onto Nicholson Hollow Trail
• 13.6 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Hot Mountain-Short Mountain. At this point, you’ve completed the “loop” part of the hike.
• 14.0 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail.
• 15.2 mi – Back at the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. Continue back up the gravel road to Nethers Road. Head left 0.1 miles to the Old Rag Parking Lot.

Places

• Old Rag Parking on Nethers Road| 38.5721462, -78.294921
• Nicholson Hollow Trailhead | 38.5731685,-78.2958718

Maps

• Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow Trail Map (KTNP)
• Old Rag Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Shenandoah NP Tick Information (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Spring is a great time to go for a hike and see wildflowers in Shenandoah National Park. This time, we decided on a hike to Rapidan Camp in the Central District. The camp was a summer getaway for President Herbert Hoover between 1929 and 1933. It is also important as it helped initiate the construction of Skyline Drive.

In 1933, the Hoovers donated the land to Shenandoah National Park. It was later used as both a boy scout camp and federal retreat. In 2004, the National Park Service restored the camp and opened it to the public. From late spring to fall, the park offers a guided tour of the area (reservations are required). You can also visit Rapidan Camp on your own, though you won’t be able to get into some of the buildings.

A network of trails provides access to the area. The shortest route is a 4.0 mile out and back hike along Mill Prong Trail. We generally prefer loops, so we decided on a longer 7.1 mile circuit that starts along Mill Prong Trail and returns on the Appalachian Trail.

This wasn’t our first visit to Rapidan Camp. We’d been there before on a backpacking trip (the same trail, but in the opposite direction). No camping is allowed within 0.5 miles of the area, and we had camped just outside of that perimeter. If you’re interested in backpacking, check out our trail map for campsite locations. We’ve also been meaning to backpack a longer route through Rapidan Camp from Jones Mountain, but haven’t gotten to it yet.

Milam Gap

Every year, Shenandoah National Park has a wildflower weekend, and this was the week after so we were hoping we’d see plenty of flowers. Mill Prong Trail begins across from a parking lot known as Milam Gap (near mile marker 53 on Skyline Drive). The lot was full, but we found a spot along the road. We crossed Skyline Drive and headed southbound on the Appalachian Trail. At the intersection with Mill Prong Trail, we turned left (though you could also get to Rapidan Camp by continuing on the AT). The trail started descending, and we spotted some geraniums.

There are three water crossings on the way to Rapidan Camp. We first crossed a stream that feeds into Mill Prong, the river that gives Mill Prong Trail its name. The water was decently high, but it was easy to cross. Afterwards, the stream flowed on our right until we crossed another small creek. Mill Prong Trail ends shortly after, and we took a slight right onto Mill Prong Horse Trail.

Soon, two large horses headed toward us. Mill Prong Horse Trail, if you couldn’t tell from the name, is a yellow-blazed trail, so horses are allowed. For all the hikes we’ve done in Shenandoah, this is the first time we actually saw people on horseback. We stepped off the trail to let them pass.

Finally we arrived at Big Rock Falls, where we crossed Mill Prong (the creek, not the trail). This is the last stream crossing, and it’s a bit harder to navigate than the others. The trail was decently crowded with a large group of backpackers, so we took our time. Big Rock Falls is impressive and makes for a good spot to take a break. About ten minutes after Big Rock Falls, we reached the gravel road that leads to Rapidan Camp.

Rapidan Camp

At the gravel road, we turned right, then immediately left, onto a path that goes into the heart of Rapidan Camp. The camp is situated where two streams – Laurel Prong and Mill Prong – join to form the Rapidan River. The area has excellent trout fishing, which is one feature that attracted the Hoovers. A man-made waterway, called Hemlock Run, flows through the camp, though there isn’t much water in it these days.

The camp originally comprised 15 buildings, but only three remain: Brown House, Creel Cabin, and the Prime Minister’s Cabin. Creel Cabin houses park employees, while the other two buildings have exhibits that visitors can explore. Brown House, the building where President Hoover stayed, was closed when we visited. The Prime Minister’s Cabin was open, so we checked that out. It was named for Ramsay MacDonald, the Prime Minister of Great Britain, who stayed at Rapidan in 1929.

Afterward, we explored the outside of Brown House. Looking at holes in the outer part of the roof, we realized the structure had been built around large trees. We thought it was pretty cool that nature had been incorporated into the design. First lady Lou Henry Hoover had wanted to build the camp with a low ecological footprint.

Brown House was closed until the following week, when tours of Rapidan Camp would begin for the season, but its porch made for a nice lunch spot. As we ate, a park volunteer chatted with us about the huge hemlock trees that once grew above the camp, keeping it cool in the summer. Sadly, those trees died in the 1990s due to an insect called the woolly adelgid. We wished we had the opportunity to take the tour to learn more, but at least we learned some history of the area by talking with the volunteer.

Laurel Prong Trail

After lunch, we continued on. Unfortunately, we went the wrong way onto Hemlock Run Trail which, naturally, follows Hemlock Run. At the end of the short 0.2 mile trail, we reached Laurel Dam. The “dam” is really two concrete posts that make a sluice gate. It was used to redirect water from Laurel Prong to the man-made Hemlock Run, which travels through Rapidan Camp.

Once we realized our mistake, we headed back to Rapidan and found the correct path to Laurel Prong Horse Trail – a gravel road that eventually turned into a muddy path. We passed a side trail to Five Tents, the area where the first Rapidan Camp buildings were located. They were simple buildings with wooden floors and canvas tents above. We didn’t have time to check it out, but the main structures have long since been removed. Apparently items like electric fixtures and old fireplaces are still there, though.

Next, we reached the intersection of Laurel Prong Trail and Fork Mountain Horse Trail. The area has several campsites, and it’s where we stayed while backpacking a few years prior. This is about as close as you can pitch a tent to Rapidan Camp.

As we continued on Laurel Prong Trail, we started seeing many more wildflowers like showy orchid, pink lady slippers, Canadian mayflower, and bluets. There’s also a lot of mountain laurel, but it wasn’t quite flowering yet. We continued along a ridgeline, and saw more wildflowers like beautiful wild azalea.

As we admired the flora, Kristin said she felt a raindrop. I felt nothing. Then she said she heard thunder. I heard nothing. Five minutes later, I caught up to her – and I could feel and hear the approaching rain. Luckily we had rain jackets, because it started to pour and we had around three miles to go. We passed an intersection with Cat Knob trail and continued ascending.

Appalachian Trail

As the rain poured, we made it to the next intersection and turned right onto the Appalachian Trail. We started ascending to Hazeltop (3812′), the third highest peak in the park, and saw lots of trilliums growing. Some were already past their prime, but it was nice to see them. Near the peak of Hazeltop, the rain finally let up. A small side trail provides a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, so we decided to check it out. After returning to the main trail, it started pouring again.

The rain finally let up as we descended to Milam Gap on the AT. A backpacker had pitched his tent directly on top of some ferns along the trail. As a reminder, make sure to use an established campsite so you can “leave no trace.” As we returned to Milam Gap, we noticed it hadn’t rained there at all. You never know when or where a spring shower will hit!

Surrounded by nature and rich history, Rapidan Camp has a bit of everything. Whether you’re dayhiking or backpacking, it makes a great destination. The loop we took was even more interesting with the spring wildflowers. And in our experience, it hasn’t been too crowded compared to other popular hikes in the park.

Rapidan Camp Loop Trail

Date: Saturday, May 18, 2019
Type: Out and back dayhike
Total Distance: 7.1 miles (11.4 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1405 feet (428 m)
Time: 6 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low to moderate
Water: Various streams and creeks along the way, Big Rock Falls
Highlights: History, Views, Wildflowers, Waterfall
Notes: This route can be done clockwise or counterclockwise. If camping, make sure you’re at least 0.5 miles from Rapidan Camp.
Directions to Milam Gap: Google Maps Directions (Near MM 53 on Skyline Drive)

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Milam Gap, cross Skyline Drive on the south side of the lot. You’ll be on the Appalachian Trail. In about 125 feet, turn left onto blue-blazed Mill Prong Trail. The trail will descend until you reach Rapidan Camp.
• 1.0 mi – After crossing a couple streams, Mill Prong Trail ends as it abuts the yellow-blazed Mill Prong Horse Trail. At the fork, turn right.
• 1.5 mi – Big Rock Falls, the last time you’ll cross Mill Prong
• 1.8 mi – Cross the gravel Camp Hoover Road. Slightly to the right is a gravel path that goes into the heart of Rapidan Camp and past The Creel. Explore as much as you like, then head west toward Laurel Prong Horse Trail. If you’re not sure which way to go, continue along Camp Hoover Road until you reach an intersection with Laurel Prong Horse Trail, which also looks like a road initially.
• 1.9 mi – On your right is a sign and a set of stairs leading up to Five Tents. Continue straight on yellow-blazed Laurel Prong Horse Trail (or check out Five Tents if you have time). The trail will start ascending around this point.
• 2.4 mi – Continue straight onto the blue-blazed Laurel Prong Trail. Laurel Prong will be the hardest part of the hike due to its ascent.
• 3.7 mi – At the fork, turn right to continue on Laurel Prong Trail. Cat Knob Trail will be to your left.
• 4.7 mi – Turn right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail.
• 5.1 mi – On the left, look for a short trail to a panoramic viewpoint that looks west. This is near the summit of Hazeltop. After this, you’ll start descending all the way back to Milam Gap.
• 7.1 mi – Return to the intersection with Mill Prong Trail. Continue straight on the AT, and cross Skyline Drive to return to Milam Gap.

Places

• Milam Gap Trailhead | 38.5031917,-78.4495831
• Rapidan Camp | 38.4870578,-78.4141389

Maps

• Rapidan Camp and Mill Prong Loop Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Rapidan Camp Tours (NPS)
• Rapidan Camp History (NPS)
• A Retreat Fit for a President (NPS)
• Rapidan Camp (Wikipedia)
• National Archives Camp Hoover (National Register of Historic Places)
• Historical Photo of The Hoovers On Porch (NPGallery)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Rapidan Camp Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We don’t usually hike in the winter. It’s cold (obviously), and daylight is lacking. Ice and downed trees often close off Skyline Drive, so you can’t access most of Shenandoah National Park. We had been trying to hike for weeks in Shenandoah, but the central district had been closed.

I’m not a fan of winter and was eager to put it behind me. Finally, with some warmer weekend weather, we found ourselves hiking Stony Man Trail. It was getting warmer out, so I insisted it was actually spring, but Kristin argued that it was still winter.

This easy 3.4 mile loop features multiple viewpoints, and makes for a great winter hike when daylight hours are limited. In fact, we hiked Stony Man the previous winter too.

To Skyland

Entering Skyline Drive through the Thorton Gap entrance, we headed south to Stony Man overlook at mile 38.5. The mountain gets its name from a rocky outcropping at the summit that supposedly looks like a man’s face. Since it was winter, we had a decent view of the rock formation. Then we headed further south to mile marker 41 (almost 42) for the trailhead.

Stony Man trailhead is located within the Skyland area. There’s a decent sized parking lot, especially compared to other trailheads, immediately after entering Skyland. Near the trailhead is an interpretive trail guide that can be purchased for $1 – we didn’t get it this time, but have previously. The guide isn’t essential, but explains some landmarks along the way. Numbered posts along the route match up with the guide.

Stony Man Trail

Our hike started on the Appalachian Trail, which is blazed white and blue. The trail starts off pretty easy, and we quickly saw evidence of a fire from 2017. Compared to last year though, the signs are quickly disappearing. We hiked 0.4 miles and came to a 4-way intersection, where Stony Man Trail is straight ahead and Stony Man Trail Connector is to the left. The AT continues right, but we went straight onto Stony Man Trail. We would do a short loop to Stony Man summit, then return to the AT.

At the intersection is a sign saying “No Pets,” but as we passed the sign we saw an off-leash dog. Shenandoah is a relatively dog-friendly park, but certain trails are not. Stony Man Trail splits after 420 feet, forming the loop. If you’re following the guide, the numbers increase if you go counter-clockwise. We opted for clockwise, for no particular reason.

There’s some elevation gain, but it’s nothing strenuous. We passed some boulders on our right, and took a short spur trail that leads to the summit after 0.4 miles. You’ll notice a hitching rail near the intersection. Horseback riders can summit the mountain using the adjacent Stony Man Horse Trail.

Shortly after passing underneath some gnarled trees, the summit trail deposited us onto a rocky viewpoint. Today was a breezy clear day, so we had views to the northwest. Below us, we could see Skyland Resort, and the overlook where we stopped along Skyline Drive. The summit wasn’t crowded; we snapped some photos, then headed back to the intersection.

We continued on to complete Stony Man Trail loop. The green moss, pines, and ferns really popped against the grays and browns of winter. Salamander research stations are scattered around the area on poles. We saw similar ones on Hawksbill Trail.

Once we completed Stony Man Trail loop, we turned left onto the Appalachian Trail as it descends. After about 15 minutes, we reached Little Stony Man viewpoint. It offers panoramic views, though Stony Man has better scenery. We enjoyed exploring the cliffs and taking some pictures.

Passamaquoddy Trail

After Little Stony Man, we came to a three-way intersection. We left the AT behind as we turned left onto Passamaquoddy Trail. George Pollock, the proprietor of Skyland Resort, named the trail when it was built in 1932. According to Henry Heatwoles, author of Guide to Shenandoah National Park and Skyline Drive, Pollock named it Passamaquoddy Trail because, he said, Passamaquoddy is a Maine Indian word meaning “abounding in pollock” (an abundant salt water fish on the Maine coast). So, a roundabout way of naming it after himself.

Passamaquoddy Trail is mostly level, though it ascends and descends gently. There’s a viewpoint about five minutes down the trail, which we think is worth seeing. Another hiker warned us that further on there were some icy spots. We thanked him and continued, reaching a slightly muddy icy area soon after. Gingerly stepping around the ice, we pressed on.

We came to some cliffs on the left that are often used for rock climbing. No one was climbing at the time, and there were signs indicating where climbers should avoid in order to protect the area. Further on, some boulder fields ran across the trail.

The next icy area was significantly different. Dripping icicles emerged from a rocky outcropping above us. Water on the ground had refrozen to form bubble-like ice formations, which I approached to take photos. In doing so, I slipped on the ice, my camera went flying and I whacked my knee on a rock…ouch. Thankfully my camera was okay, but my pride and knee suffered a bit. I had been arguing with Kristin that it was actually spring, but slipping on the ice made me realize winter wasn’t over yet.

At the end of the Passamaquoddy Trail is what I would describe as a hobbit house. It’s a building that has been set back in a mound. If you get close to the door and listen, you can hear running water behind it. This is Furnace Spring, which formerly supplied water to a copper smelter. These days, it’s the water supply for Skyland Resort. Some of the water flows under the trail and out the other side through a pipe.

Furnace Spring Horse Trail

Immediately after the spring, we turned left onto Furnace Spring Horse Trail. To the right is Skyland Fire Road, so the start of the Furnace Spring Horse Trail is gravelly and looks less like a trail. The trail loops to the north and behind the Furnace Spring building before heading south.

This section of the hike is the most strenuous. Furnace Spring Trail gains about 250 feet of elevation as it returns to the parking lot. Half a mile later, we reached an intersection with Stony Man Horse Trail. As we briefly turned left onto Stony Man Horse Trail, we could already see the parking lot where we began.

Stony Man is an enjoyable trail, which was a relief since some hikes we’ve been on lately have been kinda blah. Varied terrain and elevation with rocky outcroppings, mountains, and views enhance the experience. And despite the ice, it’s nice in winter. Regardless of the season, go on a clear day so you can appreciate the mountain views.

Stony Man Trail

Dates: March 17, 2019
Type: Out and Back Dayhike
Total Distance: 3.4 miles (5.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 849 feet (259 m)
Time: 2.5 hours, including photo breaks
Trail Markings: Colored blazes and signs at intersections
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: Minimal, mostly at Stony Many Summit
Water: Furnace Spring
Highlights: Scenic views, history, spring, cliffs
Directions to Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the parking lot, head east to the white-blazed Appalachian Trail. There will be a trailhead sign and box with interpretive trail guides.
• Mile 0.4 – At the four-way intersection, continue straight onto blue-blazed Stony Man Trail.
• Mile 0.5 – Stony Man Trail forks here into a loop. You can go either way, but these directions assume clockwise. If you’re following the interpretive guide, go counter-clockwise.
• Mile 0.7 – Going clockwise (left), you’ve reached the intersection with Stony Man Summit Trail. Head left 300 feet for the overlook, then walk back and continue on the loop.
• Mile 1.0 – Back at the start of the loop. Turn left to go back toward the AT.
• Mile 1.1 – Back at the four-way intersection, turn left on the north-bound AT.
• Mile 1.8 – Pass Little Stony Man Cliffs.
• Mile 1.9 – Turn left onto Passamaquoddy Trail at the intersection.
• Mile 2.9 – At the end of Passamaquoddy Trail, you’ll pass Furnace Spring on your left, just before the next intersection. At the intersection, take a left onto yellow-blazed Furnace Spring Horse Trail. You’ll pass Furnace Spring again on your left.
• Mile 3.4 – At the intersection with Stony Man Horse Trail, take a left. After 100 feet, you’ll see the parking lot on your right.

Places

• Stony Man Trailhead near Skyland | 38.5930696, -78.3758508
• Stony Man Overlook | 38.6087966, -78.3675734

Maps

• Stony Man Trail Map (KTNP)
• Skyland Area Map (NPS)
• Little Stony Man Closure Area Map

Links

• Guide to SNP: Passamaquoddy Trail

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Stony Man Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Rose River in Shenandoah National Park has been on our to-do list for awhile.  Several attempts in the past floundered due to laziness or something coming up at the last minute.  We’d made it to Mathews Arm Campground for the weekend, so we took the opportunity to finally hike Rose River Loop.

The hike is located off Skyline Drive in Shenandoah’s Central District, across from Big Meadows Campground.  We decided to make a 5.1 mile loop that included Dark Hollow Falls.  We prefer loops over out-and-backs because we don’t have to hike a section more than once.  Dark Hollow Falls is a spectacular waterfall, and a short hike from Skyline Drive.  Naturally, it was very crowded when we visited.

Fisher’s Gap

There were two options for parking:  Fisher’s Gap or Dark Hollow Falls trailhead.  Fisher’s Gap is located around mile marker 49.5 on Skyline Drive; Dark Hollow Falls is at 50.5.  We decided on Fisher’s Gap, because it was the first parking lot we encountered as we drove south from Mathew’s Arm Campground.  We also figured Dark Hollow Falls parking lot would be full, since that section of trail is very popular (spoiler alert: it was).  For that reason I’d recommend parking at Fisher’s Gap.

We turned onto a dirt road near mile marker 49.5. The small parking lot was full, but this wasn’t Fisher’s Gap. It was access to Red Gate Fire Road, though a gate blocks vehicular access further in.  Next to it is Fisher’s Gap Overlook, a paved parking area that had plenty of available spots.  After parking, we walked south toward Skyline Drive, passing the Appalachian Trail on our right.  When we reached Skyline Drive we saw the crosswalk for Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail, where our hike began.

Horse Trail to Big Meadows

We walked on the right shoulder of Skyline Drive, and then headed uphill on the yellow-blazed Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Though we didn’t see any horses nor any…evidence of horses.  Only other hikers.  This trail leads to Big Meadows Campground in 1.4 miles, where we would cross Skyline Drive, then hike to Dark Hollow Falls.  After the waterfall, we would hike Rose River Trail, which leads back to Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap.

Trees surrounded us as we gradually ascended Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail. The sunlight streaming through the trees both relaxed and energized us. As we hiked, we noticed stone trail markers every ½ mile, which we assume are for horseback riders.

As we approached Big Meadows Campground, two deer – a doe and fawn – crashed through the underbrush.  We must have startled them, because once they spotted us, they slowed down and started browsing for food by the trail.  They’d clearly become accustomed to people. After observing the deer at a safe distance and giving them the right of way, we continued on.

The trail continued until we reached a stream crossing.  While easy for horses to cross, it’s a bit harder for humans.  Looking to our left we saw a bridge further downstream.  We followed the creek bank to the bridge, but we realized we didn’t need to cross it. If we had waded through the stream crossing, our route would have immediately turned left and then taken another left across the bridge, to where we now stood. So we were on Story of the Forest trail.

As we walked, Hogcamp Branch flowed on our right. It would later join with other streams and become Dark Hollow Falls.  A short 0.2 mile hike later, we got to Skyline Drive.  Across the road we saw the Dark Hollow Falls parking lot, jam-packed with cars.  We had seen a few hikers so far, but starting here we’d see more than we could count until we passed Dark Hollow Falls.

Dark Hollow Falls Trail

We crossed Skyline Drive and turned left onto blue-blazed Dark Hollow Falls Trail, which rapidly descends.  The entire way down to the main waterfall, 0.7 miles, Hogcamp Branch runs to our right.  There are a few places that are worth a stop and/or photo on the way down, with small cascades or swimming holes.  But we had to share them with lots of visitors, not that we expected to have it all to ourselves.

The trail was wet and muddy from rain the previous day.  It’s also rocky and steep in places, but otherwise manageable.  The return trip would be more of a challenge due to the incline.  We reached the upper falls overlook, and looked out over the wooden fence.  Many visitors trudged past the upper falls, without stopping.  They are worth a look, but you can get closer to the even more dramatic lower falls.

Dark Hollow Falls flows down multiple levels over 70 vertical feet.  It’s been a rainy summer this year (2018), so the volume of water was impressive.  We snapped some photos from a distance as we waited…and waited…for other groups to take their close-ups and selfies. Finally it was our turn, so we quickly captured the falls before another park visitor could jump in front of us.

Before long, we moved on and were glad to leave the bulk of people behind.  We wanted to eat lunch, but it definitely would not be at Dark Hollow Falls.  Most hikers retrace their steps here and go back up Dark Hollow Falls Trail.  Not us, we continue going down and Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends at Rose River Fire Road.  At the fire road, we turned right and crossed Hogcamp Branch via a bridge.

As we crossed the bridge, we saw a peaceful waterfall on the right.  It seemed like a nice place to stop and eat lunch.  But as we sat down, a large and boisterous group of boy scouts stopped to take a break here, too.  So we left, in search of a quieter lunch spot.  Right after the bridge, we turned left onto Rose River Loop Trail.  For a shorter loop from Fisher’s Gap, we could have also made a route with Rose River Loop Trail and Rose River Fire Road, though this route skips Dark Hollow Falls.

Rose River Loop Trail

We continued our descent with Hogcamp Branch on our left. Rose River Loop Trail is less steep than Dark Hollow Falls Trail, but slick rock, mud, and water made the trail slippery.  Trekking poles were helpful on this section.  The trail was less crowded than Dark Hollow Falls, though we ran into a few other groups.

Soon we found what we were looking for: a large rock by the stream where we could have lunch.  We took a break and enjoyed the sounds of the water rushing by as we ate.  Once satiated, we continued our hike along the gurgling stream. There are no big waterfalls on this section, but it’s pleasant with small waterfalls and cascades. 

0.8 miles after Rose River Fire Road, we reached a picturesque bridge that goes across Hogcamp Branch.  Soon after the bridge, we ran into an intermittent stream that we need to cross. Since there had been so much rain, this stream was flowing strong, but we got across without any trouble.

At this point, the trail finally starts to head uphill with Rose River on our right.  The initial incline was a bit of a shock to our systems and we were slow to make progress.  But once in a rhythm, we made good time up to Rose River Falls.  The waterfall itself is 67 feet high, only three feet less than Dark Hollow Falls.  To my eyes though, it’s not as impressive.  At the base of the falls were a few people that had hiked off trail and were outrageously loud and screaming. It diminished our enjoyment of the waterfall a bit.  We would have lingered more if it weren’t for them.  We continued our uphill hike and eventually left behind Rose River when the trail veered west.

After 0.7 miles, we reached an intersection and were back on Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Only half a mile to go.  We passed an older couple going the opposite way.  They asked if it was worth it.  Assuming they meant Rose River Falls, I said definitely!  I silently hoped the loud people would be gone by the time they got there.

Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail intersects with Rose River Fire Road.  We crossed the road, the horse trail continuing on the other side.  And a few minutes later we were back where we started on Skyline Drive. 

The waterfalls, which appear on many “best of” lists, are highlights of Shenandoah National Park.  Dark Hollow Falls is more impressive than Rose River Falls, in my opinion.  Just know you won’t have it all to yourself.

Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trails

Dates: September 29, 2018
Type: Loop
Total Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1675 feet (511 m)
Time: 4.5 hours hiking which includes lunch, photography and rest breaks
Trail Markings: Well marked with yellow and blue blazes
Difficulty: Moderate, good elevation gain
Crowds:  Lots of people on Dark Hollow Falls Trail, and a moderate number on the other trails
Water: Plenty of streams, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Waterfalls, streams, wildlife
Directions to Fisher’s Gap Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot, head southwest, toward Skyline Drive.  There is a crosswalk, but don’t cross it.  Head right, uphill on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail.
• Mile 1.2 – You’ll see a stream crossing straight ahead.  If the stream is low, cross it and turn left on Story of the Forest Trail, then cross a bridge.  If the stream is too high, turn left and take the social trail to the same bridge.  You’ll be on Story of the Forest Trail without needing to cross the stream.  Go south on the trail, which is blue-blazed.
• Mile 1.3 – Story of the Forest trail turns right here, across a stone bridge.  You’ll go straight onto Story of the Forest/Dark Hollow Connector Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – Continue straight, going across Skyline Drive.  You’ll see the parking lot for Dark Hollow Falls and the Trailhead sign.  Turn left onto Dark Hollow Falls Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Upper Dark Hollow Falls Viewpoint
• Mile 2.1 – Lower Dark Hollow Falls
• Mile 2.2 – Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends; turn right onto Rose River Fire Road, which is yellow-blazed.  Head right over a bridge with another waterfall on your right.  Immediately after the bridge, turn left onto the blue-blazed Rose River Loop Trail. 
• Mile 3.7 – Rose River Falls
• Mile 4.4 – Continue straight on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 4.9 – Cross Rose River Fire Road and continue on Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 5.1 – Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot

Places

• Fisher’s Gap Overlook Parking Lot | 38.53409, -78.42457 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 49.5
• Dark Hollow Falls Parking Lot | 38.51967, -78.43136 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 50.5
• Dark Hollow Falls | 8.51873,-78.43174
• Rose River Falls | 38.53151,-78.41709
• Big Meadows Campground | 38.52815,-78.43880 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 51

Maps

• Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Big Meadows Campground Map (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Dark Hollow Falls and Rose River Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

So, we traded in a humid summer day in DC for cooler and slightly breezy weather. It’s always invigorating leaving DC and entering Shenandoah.  Somehow the mountains simultaneously relax and energize me, and make me want to live closer to the park.  Hasn’t happened yet though.

At 4,051 feet, the Hawksbill summit is the highest point in Shenandoah National Park.  That’s reason enough to hike to it.  As with most points in the park, there are multiple ways to get to the summit.  We chose to do a 2.9 mile loop, recommended by the park website.

Our first challenge was finding parking for this popular hike.  We pulled over at the Hawksbill Gap lot at mile 45.5, where the Lower Hawksbill Trail starts.  There are parking lots on both sides of the road, but many visitors make their own parking spot in the grass.  The abundance of people worried us, as we prefer solitude on hikes.

Appalachian Trail

Trails diverge to the left and right of the trailhead.  The left trail is Lower Hawksbill, our return route.  The trail on the right is a small spur leading to the Appalachian Trail.  We grabbed our gear and headed down the spur trail.  Once we reached the AT, we greeted some thru hikers.  It’s always great to see thru hikers (and less great to smell them), and it reminds us that we’d love to do a thru hike some day.

We turned left onto the AT, and started a slow ascent.  It was pretty easy going – in fact, most of this trail was easy, despite the fact that it leads to the highest point in the park.  Soon the trail reached one of our favorite features: Talus Fields.  There are three talus slopes (also called boulder fields) that feature rocks covering the hillside.  All the fields come in succession, with only a bit of forest in between.  We stopped and admired them, and thought of the effort it probably was to create a trail going through the boulder field.  We wondered what natural processes had created these features.

Salamander Trail

After about 1.1 miles, we came to a fork in the trail.  Here, we said goodbye to the AT as we turned onto Salamander Trail.  Appropriately, the trail’s namesake is the endangered Shenandoah Salamander, which only exists inside of Shenandoah National Park.  Really cool, and slightly sad at the same time.  The higher elevation area of Hawksbill is one spot that provides a cool, moist habitat for these amphibians.

As we hiked on the trail, we saw various salamander testing “stations.”  We wondered how the park service was conducting their research.  I scanned the trail for salamanders as we hiked, but didn’t manage to find any.  This brought back great childhood memories of finding salamanders in the Great Smokey Mountains with my dad.  We’d explore creeks and flip over rocks to find them, admire them, and then let them on their way.

There were two numbers to call on a tag on the stations, and I called both.  The first number was out of service.  The second went to the voicemail of a contractor lab for the USGS.  I was hoping for some sort of prerecorded message to give me more information.  So…I’m assuming the machines test air quality and other environmental statistics.

The Salamander Trail also provided our first glimpses of the views that awaited us at the summit.  There are a couple breaks in the treeline where giant rocks congregate.  We went out and appreciated the views of the Shenandoah Valley, but knew that the summit must be even better.  Without fanfare, the trail ended and dumped us onto the Byrds Nest 2 Fire Road.  In only a few hundred feet, we saw the Byrds Nest 2 Shelter, which meant we were close to the summit.  And the top of Shenandoah awaited us a few hundred feet beyond.

Summit and Lower Hawksbill Trail

At this point, our solitude abruptly came to an end.  Other hikers dotted the summit.  We knew all the traffic we’d seen at the parking lot would catch up to us eventually.  Expect it to be crowded in the summer and on the weekend, especially for a relatively easy hike with big payoff.

But the summit provides an extensive view of forest, mountains, and nearby towns – and the view was relatively clear that day.  It’s evident why this is considered one of the best hikes in Shenandoah.  We scrambled around the rocks at the top, and a man-made platform, taking in the view.  Getting photos without people in them required some patience.

Was it worth the throngs of people?  And the small biting insects at the top (they were terrible)?  We thought so.  But it probably won’t be a hike that we repeat often.

After getting our fill, we grabbed a snack while fighting off pesky insects, and then headed back on the Lower Hawksbill Trail.  This is the trail that the majority of people take, so it was much more crowded than our ascent on the AT.  We ran into quite a few people who aren’t regular hikers, so be patient.  Otherwise, the trail itself was nothing special, beyond some columbine we found on the way down.  After a quick mile, we were back at the trailhead.

Back in the parking lot, we hopped in our car, and headed back home via Skyline Drive.  The hike is definitely a must-see in Shenandoah – mainly because of the views provided by the highest point in the park.  The talus fields are a nice bonus.  We just wish it wasn’t so crowded.  It is a hike that’s probably better to do during the week, or during the off season.  I bet winter would be a great time to go.  But hiking it once was good enough for us, at least for the moment.  There are other hikes in the park that we prefer.

Hawksbill Summit Loop Trail
Distance: 2.8 miles / 4.5 kilometers roundtrip
Time: 2 hours, including a snack break at the top
Type: Loop
Elevation Gain: 860 feet / 262 meters
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Crowds: A ton at the top, and on the descent, but not a lot on the AT or Salamander Trail.
Water: No water features
Directions to Parking at Hawksbill Gap (Mile 45.5 on Skyline Drive): Google Maps Directions
Trail Directions: 

• Mile 0.0 – From the Hawksbill Gap Parking Lot, head to the trailhead sign.  Trails go both left and right here.  Take the right path toward the Appalachian Trail.  The short spur ends at the AT.  Head left (south) on the AT, following the white blazes.
• Mile 0.4 – At this point, you’ll meet the first of three talus slopes along the AT.  The other two are in short succession.
• Mile 1.1 – The trail splits here.  Take the left trail to the Salamander trail.  Wave bye to the AT!  The salamander trail winds its way up the mountain, with a few views along the way.
• Mile 1.9 – Reach a gravel fire road known as Byrds Nest 2 Road.  Turn left; it’s a short distance to the summit.
• Mile 2.0 – The summit of Hawksbill Mountain!  Breathe it in.  On a clear day, you’ll get a great view.  When ready, turn around and go back down the fire road.
• Mile 2.1 – Turn left onto the Lower Hawksbill Trail, which will take you back down the mountain.
• Mile 2.8 – Back at the parking lot.

Highlights: Views, Talus Fields, Quick Hike

Places:
Hawksbill Gap | 38.5560069, -78.3879717
Bird’s Nest Shelter #2 | 38.5552654, -78.3965896

Maps:
Hawksbill Map (KTNP)
Hawksbill Map (NPS)

Links:
Hawksbill Description on Shenandoah’s Website

The post Hawksbill Summit Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

The hike begins across from the small parking lot, with room for 10-15 cars. Fortunately, there were still a few parking spots available on the day we went. There is a map posted beside the parking lot, which has 2 route options: one with rock scrambling (the obvious choice) and one without. Cross Skyline Drive and hike up the stone staircase to begin the hike. This is the first in a series of stone and log staircases that characterize the hike. We tried to research the history of the trail, but didn’t find much. We think it must have been built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), and we could see the care that was put into the design of the trail. Ferns covered the forest floor, which made the start of the hike very picturesque.

The fog made the woods appear ethereal and added an element of visual interest. Eventually we reached the rock scrambling portion, but I would not describe it as “mostly vertical” like the park website does. If it was, that would have been pretty awesome. But I would say it’s moderately challenging, and you do gain some elevation. There were some parts that were tricky to climb, but it was not strenuous. We’re not into extreme sports, so rock scrambling is the perfect balance for us.

We ran into several other groups during the hike, and had to wait briefly a few times while they climbed the rocks in front of us. Wait time was minimal and did not affect our enjoyment of the hike. We thought many of the rocks were granite, due to their slab-like appearance. Later we found out they are greenstone, formed from lava compressed over millions of years. It was a lot of fun to hike over them – just watch your footing.

Eventually, we reached the highest point on the rock scrambling section, and were greeted with a 360 degree view. Even though we couldn’t see far because of the thick fog, it was still a nice view of the treeline fading into the distance. Due to the combination of rocky terrain and fog at the summit, it was difficult to tell which way was up, and the horizon appeared to be at an angle. It was beautiful, but kind of disconcerting that I couldn’t properly orient myself. To cross the mountain of boulders at the peak, I had to move slowly and steady myself with my hands. Rock scrambling can be rough on your hands, but this one is short enough that gloves are not a necessity.

After the rock scrambling portion, we reached an intersection – to the right, the trail loops back to the parking lot. Continuing straight led to a viewpoint that was only about 300 feet away, so we decided to check it out. On the way to the viewpoint, we saw some white and yellow wildflowers that were one of many photogenic parts of Bearfence Mountain Trail. It was interesting to see a few varieties that flower in the fall. The viewpoint itself had very limited visibility due to the fog, so it was less than impressive. On the way back down, we turned left at the junction and took a connector trail before turning right onto the Appalachian Trail, which led back to the parking lot.

The rock scramble was the most fun part of this short hike, and it left us wanting more. We were hopeful based on the name of the trail, but sadly, we didn’t see any bears. Nor did we see any fences. Maybe next time.

Bearfence Mountain Trail | 1.1 Miles | Difficulty – Moderate
Elevation Gain: 311 Feet
Parking: Park at mile marker 56.4 on Skyline Drive (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Cross Skyline Drive, and hike about 0.15 miles until you reach an intersection. Continue straight on Bearfence Loop Trail. Continue hiking over rock scrambles, until you reach another intersection for about 0.35 miles. Continue straight about 300 feet to the viewpoint. After reaching the viewpoint, turn around, and go back to the intersection. Go left on the connector trail and in about 200 feet turn right on the Appalachian Trail. Continue 0.3 miles until you reach an intersection, and go left 0.1 miles to return to the parking lot.
Highlights: Rock scrambling, views, short trail if you don’t have a lot of time
Notes: No dogs on Bearfence Mountain Loop Trail

References:
Shenandoah NP Bearfence Mountain
Bearfence Mountain Trail Map

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