Crater Lake National Park was at the top of Kristin’s bucket list for a long time. We started planning a visit, and decided to include Redwood National Park, since it’s relatively close. And we ended up enjoying Redwood more in many ways. Redwood is unique because it’s not just a national park – it also includes three California State Parks: Del Norte Coast, Jedediah Smith, and Prairie Creek. Managed collectively, they’re known as “Redwood National and State Parks.”

The primary mission of the park is to protect old-growth temperate rainforest comprised of coastal redwood (Sequoia sempervirens). As with other parks named after one particular species, there’s so much more to see. Most of the redwood trees were logged in the past, but the park contains various “groves” which highlight remaining old-growth trees.

Our Top 5 in Redwood National & State Parks

1. Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees – We saw large trees and wildlife, and camped on the bank of Redwood Creek. Hiking through the creek was a unique experience, which made this our favorite hike in the park. Also, banana slugs.
   
   

   

2. James Irvine & Miner’s Ridge Trails with Fern Canyon – Our first real experience with large redwood trees, this trail has it all: beaches, forests, and Fern Canyon. It’s a longer hike, but worth it.
   
   

   

3. Lyons Ranch Trail – For something different in Redwood N&SP, Lyons Ranch delivered on experiencing how homesteaders lived in the area. The wide open prairies are gorgeous and we enjoyed exploring historic structures.
   
   

   

4. Kayaking the Smith River – This guided river kayaking experience allowed us to interact with rangers and exercise our arms (for a change). We navigated class I-II rapids, took in the beautiful scenery, and ate lunch on a rocky beach.
   
   

   

5. Damnation Creek Trail – A roadside trailhead leads through redwood forest to a secluded beach. And you’ll understand the name on your return route (but it’s really not that bad).
   
   

   

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Prairie Creek Campground & Mill Creek Campground – The two car campgrounds we didn’t stay at.
• Designated Backcountry Campgrounds – There are seven backcountry campsites in the park; we only had time to backpack in the Redwood Creek area, which has dispersed camping. I’m sure there are some other great backpacking trips!
• Dolason Prairie Trail – Located along Bald Hills Road, this long day hike was high on our priority list, but we didn’t have time. Its old-growth redwoods, history, views, and open prairies are meant to reflect the original vision for Redwood National Park. We got a taste with Lyons Ranch Trail, but would have liked to see more.
  
  

  

• Mill Creek Trail & Grove of Titans – The Grove of Titans is an area that recently became well-known for featuring some of the largest and oldest coastal redwoods. Since it’s off-trail, many unauthorized social trails have caused environmental damage. This is one of the reasons we didn’t visit. The park is hoping to construct elevated boardwalks around the area, so we hope to visit in the future.
• And many more…

Mini Adventures

On our trip to Redwood National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Lady Bird Johnson Grove – After finishing our Redwood Creek backpacking trip, we had some time. We stopped at Lady Bird Johnson Grove, hoping to learn about forest ecology and the history of the park. The lot is small, and we took the last available parking spot. The 1.1 mile loop has a printed educational guide available for $1. We heard one visitor complain to her friend that she hadn’t been told that the trail was a whole mile long, which made us laugh.
  
  

  

• Stout Grove – After checking out Boy Scout Tree Trail, we headed further down the road to Stout Grove. We had read that sunlight streams through the trees in the late afternoon. The trails around the grove are well-maintained, and you’ll probably enjoy it if its your first hike in the park. By the end of our visit, it felt a bit samey, and we didn’t see the sunlight penetrating the tree canopy. There are good photo ops, and a lot of bang for your buck if you’re short on time or prefer flat terrain.
  
  

  

Our Redwood N&SP Tips

• Bring water shoes and trekking poles if you’re planning to backpack Redwood Creek.
• Check out some of the stops in the park that are right along the road, like DeMartin Picnic Area or Lagoon Creek.
• Check out ranger programs, like kayaking (some are free).
• If you want to see Roosevelt Elk, we recommend going to Elk Meadow or Gold Bluffs Beach. We also saw a herd near the turnoff from US 101 onto Bald Hills Road.

Weather

High temperatures in the winter average in the low 50s, while the average high temperature in the summer reaches the mid-60s. We visited in July for the warmest temperatures and the least rainfall. Not surprisingly, summer is the most popular time to visit Redwood.

Visitation Statistics

As stated above, July through August is the busiest time to visit Redwood. If you can swing it, visit in June or September for cooler temperatures and fewer people. That said, we were there in July and never experienced any issues with crowds. The park is large enough that it disperses everyone well.

Redwood held steady with annual visitation in the past two decades. While many parks have seen a dramatic increase in visitors recently, Redwood hasn’t. In fact, more guests went to Redwood in the 1980s than in the 2000s.

Our Itinerary

We started our exploration of the park in the south, and worked our way north. Our planned itinerary worked out well, but there are countless ways to plan your trip.

Our Experiences

• South Districts (Redwood NP & Prairie Creek)
  • Lyons Ranch Trail
  • Gold Bluffs Campground
  • James Irvine-Miner’s Ridge Trail with Fern Canyon
  • Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees
• North Districts (Jedediah Smith & Del Norte Coast)
  • Jedediah Smith Campground
  • Kayaking the Smith River
  • Damnation Trail
  • Boy Scout Tree Trail
• Redwood Accommodations & Restaurants

Interactive Map

Paper Maps

• North Redwood National and State Parks Map (Redwood Hikes Press)
• South Redwood National and State Parks Map (Redwood Hikes Press)
• Redwood National and State Parks Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)
• National Park Service Maps
  • Redwood National & State Parks Map (NPS)
  • Redwood National & State Parks Map – Northern Half (NPS)
  • Redwood National & State Parks Map – Southern Half (NPS)

The post Best Hikes, Itinerary and Planning Guide appeared first on KTNPBlog.

There are no restaurants or lodging (aside from campgrounds) in Redwood National & State Parks. In 2010, Redwood Hostel, previously the only lodging in the park, closed. And in 2019, the hostel building is set to be demolished. Crescent City is near the northern part of the park, and Klamath and Orick are to the south. Even further south are the towns of Arcata and Eureka.

Restaurants in Crescent City

When visiting a park, I often drag my wife to nearby breweries. If I like the beer enough, I’ll buy a pint glass souvenir. In this case, I had SeaQuake Brewing in Crescent City in mind. We decided to visit after our Redwood Creek backpacking trip, so we were starving. I got pizza with a chocolate porter and Kristin got fresh fish tacos. I enjoyed my pizza a lot, but Kristin thought the fish tacos were dry and desperately needed a sauce. The beer was good, but didn’t wow me. We did enjoy the casual atmosphere there.

A couple days later, I convinced Kristin to go back to SeaQuake. I really wanted to like it – enough to get a pint glass. This time, I got a 9.2 burger with parmesan fries and Kristin got a Thai chicken salad. This time we both liked our food. Kristin’s salad had an assortment of vegetables, crunchy noodles, and spicy peanut dressing. I got two half pints of beer, a blonde ale and coastal pale ale, which were okay, but felt forgettable. So we left, me without a pint glass. The place was packed both times and we had to wait, so maybe I’m missing something.

We went to Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant for dinner one night, while staying at Jedediah Smith Campground. Kristin ordered a torta with pork al pastor, guacamole, mayo, onion, lettuce, and tomato, which she loved. It looked like a simple sandwich, but its sweet and spicy flavors and variety of textures made it great.

I got a chimichanga platter, but thought it was one-note and nothing special. Service was a bit strange, as different servers kept coming by our table, but they were friendly. When Kristin mentioned her dairy allergy, they were very accommodating.

For breakfast the next morning, we went to Hiouchi Cafe, which is only three minutes from Jedediah Smith Campground. The waitress was friendly as she took our order. I ordered Grandma’s French Toast, which piqued my interest as a cinnamon lover. It was good but basic – and it needed more cinnamon! My bacon was kinda rubbery too.

Kristin’s dairy allergy prevented her from ordering the breakfast meals, so she ordered eggs, sausage, hash browns, avocado, and tomatoes a la carte. Some items looked okay, but the avocado was very brown, and she was surprised they served it that way. I wanted to like Hiouchi Cafe – it sounded tasty and was highly rated. But for $30, what we got wasn’t worth it.

Restaurants in Orick

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Snack Shack. This outdoor roadside joint is located in Orick, California, near Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center and the southern section of the park. With limited parking and picnic benches, some of which are shaded by umbrellas, it was one of our favorite restaurants of the trip.

Snack Shack mainly serves burgers, hotdogs, and burritos. As we ordered, a Redwood Park Ranger picked up her order, so we figured it must be good! I got the Baby Bigfoot Burger: bacon, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and pepper jack cheese. And tots. And a chocolate milkshake.

Kristin got the Hawaiian Burger, which came with pineapple and bbq sauce, and a huge order of fries. Our meal was a bit greasy, but so tasty. The milkshake was rich, thick, smooth, and chocolatey. While Snack Shack has a seemingly “fast food” vibe, our food took a while to arrive.

Snack Shack is open until 7pm, and we wished it was open later. Also, there’s no restroom, so plan ahead. There aren’t many places to eat near southern Redwood N&SP, so we highly recommend it if you’re looking for some casual-yet-delicious roadside burgers.

Accommodations Near the Park

For campgrounds in the park, check out Gold Bluffs Beach Campground and Jedediah Smith Campground.

Lighthouse Inn in Crescent City is relatively affordable, and conveniently located along highway 101. Close to the park, and at just over $100 a night, our standard room was actually quite large. Our bed was a bit springy, which made it hard to sleep. The hotel was clean, and staff was friendly.

Breakfast consisted of basics: bagels, oatmeal, hard boiled eggs, cereal, and cake (breakfast of champions). There was no hot food, unless you toasted some bread, but it got us going in the morning. They had a washer and dryer, so we took the opportunity to clean our clothes ($1.50 a load). Some of the nautical themed decor in the hotel wasn’t quite our taste, but it was an affordable place to stay.

Places

• SeaQuake Brewing | 400 Front St, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant | 297 US-101, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Cafe | 2095 Hwy 199, Hiouchi, CA 95531
• Snack Shack | 120779 US-101, Orick, CA 95555
• Lighthouse Inn | 681 Highway 101 South, Crescent City, CA 95531

Interactive Map

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Planning

There are plenty of places to backpack in Redwood National & State Parks. All backcountry camping must be done at designated campsites – except for Redwood Creek, located in southern Redwood National Park. Along the creek, camping on gravel bars is allowed. We only had time to do one backpacking trip in the park, and Redwood Creek was our choice.

There are two possible entry points to Redwood Creek – Redwood Creek trailhead and Tall Trees trailhead. Redwood Creek trailhead, which is near highway 101, has had several reported car break-ins. A ranger at Kuchel Visitor Center recommended starting from Tall Trees trailhead, since the parking lot is beyond a locked gate. We decided on Tall Trees for security and so we could include Tall Trees Grove, which has some of the largest redwood trees in the park.

We decided on a relatively easy-going route that was only 6.8 miles, and 971 feet of elevation gain. It included Tall Trees Grove, then hiking on the Redwood Creeks’ gravel bars. There are no trails along the creek, and we often found ourselves wading through the water. Water shoes are critical for the hike, and trekking poles are highly recommended. With the right equipment, this hike is a fun experience.

Backpacking permits in Redwood are free (honestly they *should* charge a nominal fee). Permits can be obtained up to 24 hours before your trip at Hiouchi or Kuchel Visitor Centers. They are limited and first-come-first-served. The park allows 50 visitors per night to camp along the gravel bars by Redwood Creek. When we picked up our permit, the rangers provided a code for the locked gate that allows only permitted hikers into Tall Trees Grove.

Updated: Starting in June 2020, backcountry permits are only being issued online, so our earlier experience is out of date. Permits can be requested up to 160 days in advance, but no later than 24 hours prior. If you want to park at Tall Trees Grove, which is what we did, then you must also have an additional Tall Trees Trail permit. This is also available online, and can be reserved 180 days in advance. You’ll need an all day permit for each day that you’re parked at the trailhead. There is a limit of 35 all-day permits, each day. The park recommends getting the Tall Trees permits first, before getting the backcountry permits. Once you have a Tall Trees permit, the gate access code will be sent 24 hours before your hiking date. All permits are free.

Day 1 – To the Trailhead

We took Bald Hills Road to Tall Trees trailhead – the same road we drove to Lyons Ranch a few days prior. After a few tries, we managed to unlock the gate, drove through, and hopped out again to lock the gate behind us. Beyond the gate is a six-mile winding gravel road.

Once we parked, we got our packs, and headed to Tall Trees Trail. There’s supposed to be an interpretive trail guide at the trailhead, but sadly none were available. We started on Tall Trees trail, which only goes for 100 feet before coming to a fork. Tall Trees trail continues on the right. The following day, we returned via Emerald Ridge Trail on the left.

Day 1 – Tall Trees Trail

Tall Trees Trail descends steadily among redwoods and other trees. Some of the redwood trees that had fallen on the trail had neat cutouts for us to travel through. We took our time, stopping occasionally to rest on a bench, and just enjoyed the scenery and peacefulness. Shortly before reaching Tall Trees Grove, there’s a pretty area with large redwood trees and benches.

After 1.4 miles, we reached Tall Trees Grove, and started exploring the upper part of Tall Trees Loop. Some trees are marked with a wooden post with a number etched into it. This matches up with the interpretive guide (if it’s available at the trailhead). Since we didn’t have the guide, we felt a bit lost, but we still appreciated the enormity of the trees.

The previous record holder of “world’s tallest tree” is in Tall Trees Grove. Howard Libby Tree, also called “Tall Tree,” held the title until 1994 when the top died back. It’s currently 368 feet tall and is the 34th tallest tree in the world. Since we didn’t have a trail brochure (a recurring theme) we didn’t know exactly which tree it was at the time, though we would find it on the lower part of Tall Trees Loop.

Day 1 – Redwood Creek

As we made our way through the grove, we passed a few other groups, and then saw our first glimpse of Redwood Creek through the trees. The trail led us onto a gravel bar for a better view. We took a break on the rocky beach. It was a gorgeous day – sunny with very blue sky.

A seasonal bridge crosses Redwood Creek from June-September. As we crossed it, we looked down through crystal clear, yet blue-green water, to the colorful rocks on the creek bed. We passed a trail on our left that leads to 44 camp (a backcountry campground), but we continued downstream on the gravel bars to make camp. Camping is allowed as long as your site is at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove.

It was about 3:30 p.m. and several groups had already set up camp nearby. They were well-spaced for privacy, and each stretch of beach has a good spot to camp. Fire rings are scattered around, generally near sandier areas. Fires are only allowed on Redwood Creek gravel bars. We reached our first stream crossing, and decided it was time to change into our water shoes. The water was cool, and the rocks were a bit slippery, but we made it across easily. The water was about a foot deep.

Immediately after crossing the stream, Kristin noticed something ahead of us. Small animals running from the shore toward the trees. She called out to me, and I grabbed my camera and managed to snap some photos. They were so small we initially thought they were squirrels. We don’t know exactly what they were – river otters or maybe minks? If anyone knows, please add a comment!

These were not the only animals we saw either. As we hiked, we saw tadpoles in a small, secluded part of the creek. Naturally, where there are tadpoles, there are frogs and toads. We started seeing a lot of them. They were small, about an inch wide, so they were probably juveniles. They blend in quite well so watch where you step!

As we went downstream, we crossed a few places (glad to have water shoes) until we found a sunny, sandy spot to set up camp. It was soon after the creek turned around a bend, so we had some privacy. The curve in the creek also allowed some sunlight in, which helped dry our damp clothing and shoes. We set up our tent and relaxed.

While we were relaxing, some other hikers came carrying a large cooler… we stared a bit. They continued past our campsite further downstream and we wondered how they would bear-proof the cooler. We had trouble ourselves finding a spot to hang our bear bag – there weren’t a lot of good branches along the creek bank. Eventually we found one, less than ideal, but the best we could do.

We loved camping on the beach. It was private, and we got to have dinner by the creek. There was easy access to a water source to filter. The park actually recommends filtering water from tributaries, rather than directly from Redwood Creek (see the Backcountry Guide). We weren’t aware of that when we were there, and we’re not sure why that is. We fell asleep to the sounds of the creek gurgling and frogs croaking.

Day 2 – Redwood Creek

The next morning we retrieved our bear bag, and enjoyed some oatmeal by the creek. There was lingering fog and it took a long time for the sun to burn it away. We packed our things, said goodbye, and headed back the way we came. The creek was colder than yesterday, and the sky threatened to rain – luckily it only amounted to a few brief showers.

When we reached the seasonal bridge back to Tall Trees Grove, we saw a group camping right outside the grove. Whoops. The park service provides info about campsite restrictions when you request a permit, but signs might help too. It was a bit awkward also, as we passed a group eating breakfast next to the trail.

Ducking back into the forest, we went through the lower portion of Tall Trees Loop. Like the upper portion, it boasts many large redwood trees. However, the lower portion has more of a prehistoric feel with its moss-covered maple trees and lush ferns.

Along much of the trail, we could see Redwood Creek to our right. Along this section is the Howard Libby Tree, once the world’s tallest tree (now the 34th tallest). In addition to the Libby Tree there is also Nugget, the world’s 3rd tallest tree and Paul Zahl, the world’s 17th tallest tree.

Soon we came to an intersection, and a sign that said “To Emerald Ridge Trail – Summer Use Only – Extensive Wading.” Yeah, that sounds about right. We turned onto the trail and were back on a rocky beach, similar to where we had camped. Our plan was to hike along (and in) the creek for 1.6 miles until we reached Emerald Ridge Trail.

This section of trail has more creek crossings. The first crossing was freezing cold as a inland shaded stream flowed into Redwood Creek. Around here, we passed the only group of people we’d see on this section of Redwood Creek. They were a group of 12 people from Australia and we chatted for a bit. They had 6 adults and 6 kids and had camped near the Emerald Ridge Trail. Since the water was deep in some places, some of them hiked out twice – once to carry gear, and once to carry their kids!

Continuing, we came upon longer crossings, with deeper water. Sometimes we had to walk in the creek for several hundred feet before getting to a bank. Other times it was like a maze. There were downed trees in the creek that we had to climb over. Reflections on the water prevented us from discerning its depth. It was a lot of fun!

At one point we couldn’t see any beach ahead of us, just water. We found what might be a path through bushes on land, but it became too dense. We went back in the water and went along the left side. Then it got too deep.  So, we doubled back and went on the right side, which worked for a while.  Then it got too deep, so we headed diagonally forward, back to the left side! 

We picked our way through slowly, and eventually made it to the next beach area. Even though we rolled our shorts up, they still got wet – giving us an idea of how deep the water was in some spots. We were in the water for maybe 15 minutes during this stretch. Trekking poles were necessary to help stabilize us and gauge water depth. Water shoes also helped us keep our balance.

Day 2 – Emerald Ridge Trail

Eventually we stopped and checked the map, and compared it to where our phone GPS placed us. That way we wouldn’t get lost and miss the left turn onto Emerald Ridge Trail. Judging by the map, we were almost there. Soon enough we spotted a tree with an orange marker, and headed toward it. As we got closer, we could read the word “TRAIL” on it. An adjacent sign told us this was Emerald Ridge Trail.

It had gotten quite warm and sunny – different from the foggy, drizzly morning. It was time to swap out our water shoes for hiking boots. Warm dry socks felt so good on our chilled feet. We clipped our soggy water shoes to our backpacks and continued.

Emerald Ridge Trail ascended through a tunnel of small trees and shrubs. The trail has some signs of erosion, due to its elevation gain, as it heads back to the parking lot. We came upon a recently downed tree that we climbed over. It’s a pleasant trail, but there’s not much else to note. We passed Dolason Prairie Trail and lamented that we wouldn’t have time to hike it.

We were getting a bit tired due to the incline, but we finally returned to the parking lot. Happy with our trip, we got in the car and headed out along the gravel road. When we got to the gate, there was a couple entering and they asked us if we had left the gate open. We had not, but apparently whoever entered the area before them neglected to lock the gate. Exiting could be a problem for parties who enter without the combination, so make sure you close and lock the gate!

This was our favorite hike in Redwood National & State Parks. It’s different than any hike we’d ever done. Hiking through a creek and seeing the large redwood trees was an experience. The animals we saw only added to the splendor of the trail. So yeah, we recommend this trip wholeheartedly. You won’t regret it (unless you get lost).

Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees Trail

Date Visited:July 19, 2017 – July 20, 2017
Type: Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 6.8 miles (10.9 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 973 feet (297 m)

• Day 1 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 2.6 miles (4.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 204 feet (62 m) gain, 916 feet (279 m) loss
  • Time: 3.5 hours hiking which includes occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A site along Redwood Creek
• Day 2 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 4.2 miles (6.7 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 769 feet (234 m) gain, 57 feet (17 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours hiking which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections. No markings along Redwood Creek.
Difficulty: Moderate, as long as you have the right equipment.
Crowds: About a half dozen groups along Redwood Creek; more near Tall Trees Grove.
Water: Redwood Creek, streams
Highlights: Large redwood trees, primeval forests, solitude, wildlife, streams, rocky beaches, wading through Redwood Creek
Note: There are many ways you can do this hike. The distances and elevations are just estimates based on what we did. Make sure you camp at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove. Water shoes and trekking poles are highly recommended for wading.
Directions to Tall Trees Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Tall Trees Trailhead, take Tall Trees Trail. After 100 feet, the trail splits. Stay right on Tall Trees Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – At the intersection with Tall Trees Loop, head right onto the upper portion of Tall Trees Trail.
• Mile 1.8 – Turn right onto the Redwood Creek Trail, that leads out of the forest. Once you get to the creek, you’ll see a seasonal bridge (in summer), across the creek. Cross the bridge and head right (downstream). Walk along the creek until you find a campsite.
• Mile 2.6 – This was around where we camped, but feel free to camp anywhere (at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove). Enjoy the river, and head back the same way in the morning.
• Mile 3.4 – Go back into Tall Trees Grove. This time, head right at the intersection with Tall Trees Trail – you’ll walk through the lower part of Tall Trees Loop. Near the end of this section is the Libby Tree.
• Mile 3.9 – Turn right at this intersection that heads toward Redwood Creek. A sign warns “To Emerald Ridge Trail – Summer Use Only – Extensive Wading.” Once at the creek, follow it upstream for 1.6 miles. There is no defined trail here, you’ll be wading from gravel bar to gravel bar.
• Mile 5.5 – Look for an orange marker on the left that says “TRAIL.” Turn left onto Emerald Ridge Trail, and leave the creek behind.
• Mile 5.9 – Continue straight, as you pass the intersection with Dolason Prairie Trail.
• Mile 6.8 – Intersection with Tall Trees Trail. Continue right for 100 feet and you’re back at the parking lot.

Places

• Hiouchi Visitor Center | 1600 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center | US Highway 101 at Orick, Calif.
• Tall Trees Trailhead | 41.2081242, -123.9953206
• Howard Libby Tree |41.20818, -124.013402
• Nugget Tree |41.20963, -124.01215
• Paul Zahl Tree | 41.20792, -124.01138
• Our Campsite on Redwood Creek | 41.219028, -124009484

Maps

• Redwood Creek & Tall Trees Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Backcountry Trip Planner (NPS)
• NPS Article on Tall Trees Grove
• Famous Redwoods – Tall Trees Grove Description
• Backcountry Permits (NPS)
• Backcountry Permit Requests (Redwood Parks Conservancy)
• Tall Trees Trail Permits (NPS)
• Tall Trees Trail Permits Requests (Redwood Parks Conservancy)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Towering redwood trees. That’s what you think of when you come to Redwood National & State Parks. Our first hike in the park though? It would feature no redwoods. Lyons Ranch, a National Historic Site, has an easy 4.5 mile loop trail and features wide open prairies, dramatic views, and historic structures. You can see more than just trees at Redwood N&SP.

Lyons Ranch Trail is in a remote section of the park called Bald Hills, near the park’s southeast border. It takes time to get there, but it’s worth it. Native American tribes like the Chilula, Hupa, and Yurok originally lived in the area. These tribes deliberately set fire to the surrounding oak woodlands to enhance the growth of acorns, berries, and grasses. The resulting wide-open prairies eventually welcomed settlers and their sheep ranches.

Jonathan Lyons was one of the first European-American settlers in the Bald Hills area. He and his wife, Amelia, who was of Hupa descent, started sheep ranching here in 1873. The land was ranched for three generations, until the 1960s when it was sold for its timber. Today, the area is still largely untouched with various historical buildings and structures remaining.

Crescent City, California

The day before we arrived in Redwood N&SP, we drove down the Pacific coast from Portland, Oregon to Crescent City, California. We could write a whole post about how awesome the Oregon coast was – but this is a blog about National Parks. So, we recommend you check it out yourself.

Once we entered Redwood N&SP, our first stop was Hiouchi Visitor Center, near Jedediah Smith Campground. Here, we signed up for a free kayaking trip that the park runs. Next, we drove south on highway 101, which traverses the northern half of the park. Construction backup and eerie fog slowed our trip down a bit. However, a few scenic overlooks with spectacular coastal views made the drive much more interesting.

Bald Hills Road

To get to the trailhead, we continued driving south on highway 101 and then turned onto Bald Hills Road. The road is a 2WD accessible road that runs on the east side of the federally managed Redwood National Park section of Redwood N&SP. Various trailheads like Tall Trees Grove and Dolason Prairie can also be accessed from Bald Hills Road. 17 miles from the start is the trailhead for Lyons Ranch.

After 6.7 miles, we stopped at an overlook of Redwood Creek. The overlook is a wide scenic view of Redwood Creek, where we backpacked later in our trip. It was cool to see it from higher up as we knew we’d be down there soon. We got back on the road, which turns from pavement to gravel. With the change comes gorgeous views of open prairies as the road winds its way through them.

The road is dusty and bumpy, but easy to drive on. As we drove we suddenly heard a loud roar and saw a giant logging truck coming toward us. We pulled over to the side as far as we could, as the truck raced past us. It’s dangerous, we really had to be careful and pull over as far as we could to let the truck go by. Be very cautious while driving this road!

Lyons Ranch Trailhead

We finally reached the trailhead after a long drive. It takes awhile to get here, so plan accordingly. Somewhat surprisingly – there weren’t any other cars in the parking lot. As we were gathering our gear, another car drove up and parked. Two people got out, snapped some photos of the views, and then hopped back in their car and left. Those were the only people that we’d see on the hike.

When deciding on which route to hike at Lyons Ranch, there are a few options. The main trail is Lyons Ranch Trail which is an out-and-back to the old Lyons barn and some other buildings. The Lyons Ranch area also has a series of intersecting old gravel roads. There’s a gate that prevents cars from getting on the road. We’d be making a reverse lollipop loop out of the trail and gravel roads.

To start, we went straight out of the gate, past the trailhead sign onto Lyons Ranch Trail. We were immediately greeted with dramatic vistas over prairies. In the distance are views of the rolling hills which makes for a nice dichotomy. It was sunny, warm, and clear – a great day for a hike.

Much of the trail is exposed to the sun, but after about 15 minutes we entered an area with oak woodland surrounding us. It’s a nice change, but soon we were back out on the prairie. A few simple signs that say “TRAIL” with an arrow guide us as we go, but the way is clear even without them. Growing alongside the trail are some pretty purple and pink wildflowers. If we were here in the spring or earlier in the summer, the area would be bursting with wildflowers!

“Home Place”

At 1.6 miles into the hike, we saw a large barn in the distance. The area around it is the “Home Place,” the former residence of the Lyons family. Other than the barn, only two small bunkhouses remain. We approached the barn and looked around. We weren’t aware and didn’t see any obvious entrances, so we didn’t go in, but we later found out that visitors can enter the barn.

Further past the barn are the bunkhouses, which we did go in and explore while being respectful of what was there. Mostly old tools, soda cans, clothing and other odds and ends. Further beyond the bunkhouses looked to be an old outhouse, but we weren’t sure. I’m glad these structures still exist for us to look at, as they gave us an idea of what life was like at the time.

Ranch Road

After taking a short break at a nearby picnic table, we headed back the way we came. Around 15 minutes later, we saw a fork in the road. To the left, Lyons Ranch Trail returns to the parking lot. To make this a loop hike, we headed right onto Ranch Road. There’s no signage, we just went by our map. But both roads are obvious, they’re not hidden. It’s the first intersection we encountered after turning around at the barn.

Ranch Road is a pleasant hike and features more shade and fewer views than Lyons Ranch Trail. Taking the road added about a mile of distance and 200 feet of elevation gain to our return route. It’s worth it for the views and historical buildings we saw.

We came upon a downed tree across the road. As we hopped over it, I wondered how much maintenance this trail gets. Soon, we saw another barn down the road. Except, it’s not technically a barn, it’s Long Ridge Sheep Shed. In the winter, sheep would be fed inside this building.

Approaching the shed, we took a quick peek inside, imagining how it was used. After satisfying our curiosity, we immediately turned left onto Long Ridge Road which leads back to the trailhead. Still no signage, but the route was easy to follow on our map.

Long Ridge Road

Long Ridge Road ascends sharply uphill, and this is the most strenuous part of the hike. As we hiked, we looked back and were greeted with great views of the shed and scenic landscape. Before long we looked to our left and could see Lyons Ranch Trail in the distance. We could see that the trail would meet up with Long Ridge Road soon. When it did, we arrived back at the parking lot.

This hike was a wonderful introduction to Redwood N&SP, even if it lacks redwood trees. As you hike this gravel road, you’ll be serenaded by birds and enjoy seasonal wildflowers. It’s pleasant and scenic with gorgeous prairie and mountain views. We recommend this trail, particularly since it’s so different from the rest of the park. And the hardest part about this hike is getting there.

Lyons Ranch Trail

Date Visited: July 17, 2017
Type: Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 4.5 miles (7.2 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 880 feet (268 m)
Time: 2.5 hours hiking which includes photography breaks
Trail Markings: None besides a few simple wooden signs that said “TRAIL” with an arrow, but it’s easy to follow
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: None
Water: None
Highlights: Views, history, wildlife
Note: Watch out for logging trucks on Bald Hills Road!
Directions to Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Head straight, past the gate onto the road/trail ahead onto Lyons Ranch Trail.
• Mile 1.7 – You’ve arrived at the “Home Place.” A barn and two bunkhouses remain. Explore, then head back the way you came.
• Mile 2.3 – The trail forks here. To the left is Lyons Ranch Trail, where you came from. Take the right fork towards Ranch Road.
• Mile 3.7 – At the intersection of Ranch Road and Long View Road is Long View Sheep Shed. Go left onto Long View Road; Ranch Road continues to the right.
• Mile 4.1 – There is a faint road to the right here called High Prairie Road, but continue straight on Long View Road.
• Mile 4.5 – You’ve arrived back at the parking lot.

Places

• Lighthouse Inn | 681 Highway 101 South, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Visitor Center | 1600 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• DeMartin Picnic Area | 41.6034896, -124.1011377
• Lagoon Creek Picnic Area | 41.5936743, -124.1009537
• Redwood Creek Overlook | 41.2580432, -123.9981322
• Lyons Ranch Parking Area | 41.1474986,-123.8963249
• Lyons Ranch Barn | 41.136546, -123.913175
• Long Ridge Sheep Shed | 41.138709, -123.889121

Maps

• Lyons Ranch Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Lyons Ranch Historical Place Article (NPS)
• Bald Hills Visitor Guide (NPS)
• Lyons Ranch Cultural Landscapes Inventory, 2004 (NPS)
• Del Norte Triplicate Article About Lyons Family

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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