Crater Lake National Park was at the top of Kristin’s bucket list for a long time. We started planning a visit, and decided to include Redwood National Park, since it’s relatively close. And we ended up enjoying Redwood more in many ways. Redwood is unique because it’s not just a national park – it also includes three California State Parks: Del Norte Coast, Jedediah Smith, and Prairie Creek. Managed collectively, they’re known as “Redwood National and State Parks.”

The primary mission of the park is to protect old-growth temperate rainforest comprised of coastal redwood (Sequoia sempervirens). As with other parks named after one particular species, there’s so much more to see. Most of the redwood trees were logged in the past, but the park contains various “groves” which highlight remaining old-growth trees.

Our Top 5 in Redwood National & State Parks

1. Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees – We saw large trees and wildlife, and camped on the bank of Redwood Creek. Hiking through the creek was a unique experience, which made this our favorite hike in the park. Also, banana slugs.
   
   

   

2. James Irvine & Miner’s Ridge Trails with Fern Canyon – Our first real experience with large redwood trees, this trail has it all: beaches, forests, and Fern Canyon. It’s a longer hike, but worth it.
   
   

   

3. Lyons Ranch Trail – For something different in Redwood N&SP, Lyons Ranch delivered on experiencing how homesteaders lived in the area. The wide open prairies are gorgeous and we enjoyed exploring historic structures.
   
   

   

4. Kayaking the Smith River – This guided river kayaking experience allowed us to interact with rangers and exercise our arms (for a change). We navigated class I-II rapids, took in the beautiful scenery, and ate lunch on a rocky beach.
   
   

   

5. Damnation Creek Trail – A roadside trailhead leads through redwood forest to a secluded beach. And you’ll understand the name on your return route (but it’s really not that bad).
   
   

   

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Prairie Creek Campground & Mill Creek Campground – The two car campgrounds we didn’t stay at.
• Designated Backcountry Campgrounds – There are seven backcountry campsites in the park; we only had time to backpack in the Redwood Creek area, which has dispersed camping. I’m sure there are some other great backpacking trips!
• Dolason Prairie Trail – Located along Bald Hills Road, this long day hike was high on our priority list, but we didn’t have time. Its old-growth redwoods, history, views, and open prairies are meant to reflect the original vision for Redwood National Park. We got a taste with Lyons Ranch Trail, but would have liked to see more.
  
  

  

• Mill Creek Trail & Grove of Titans – The Grove of Titans is an area that recently became well-known for featuring some of the largest and oldest coastal redwoods. Since it’s off-trail, many unauthorized social trails have caused environmental damage. This is one of the reasons we didn’t visit. The park is hoping to construct elevated boardwalks around the area, so we hope to visit in the future.
• And many more…

Mini Adventures

On our trip to Redwood National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Lady Bird Johnson Grove – After finishing our Redwood Creek backpacking trip, we had some time. We stopped at Lady Bird Johnson Grove, hoping to learn about forest ecology and the history of the park. The lot is small, and we took the last available parking spot. The 1.1 mile loop has a printed educational guide available for $1. We heard one visitor complain to her friend that she hadn’t been told that the trail was a whole mile long, which made us laugh.
  
  

  

• Stout Grove – After checking out Boy Scout Tree Trail, we headed further down the road to Stout Grove. We had read that sunlight streams through the trees in the late afternoon. The trails around the grove are well-maintained, and you’ll probably enjoy it if its your first hike in the park. By the end of our visit, it felt a bit samey, and we didn’t see the sunlight penetrating the tree canopy. There are good photo ops, and a lot of bang for your buck if you’re short on time or prefer flat terrain.
  
  

  

Our Redwood N&SP Tips

• Bring water shoes and trekking poles if you’re planning to backpack Redwood Creek.
• Check out some of the stops in the park that are right along the road, like DeMartin Picnic Area or Lagoon Creek.
• Check out ranger programs, like kayaking (some are free).
• If you want to see Roosevelt Elk, we recommend going to Elk Meadow or Gold Bluffs Beach. We also saw a herd near the turnoff from US 101 onto Bald Hills Road.

Weather

High temperatures in the winter average in the low 50s, while the average high temperature in the summer reaches the mid-60s. We visited in July for the warmest temperatures and the least rainfall. Not surprisingly, summer is the most popular time to visit Redwood.

Visitation Statistics

As stated above, July through August is the busiest time to visit Redwood. If you can swing it, visit in June or September for cooler temperatures and fewer people. That said, we were there in July and never experienced any issues with crowds. The park is large enough that it disperses everyone well.

Redwood held steady with annual visitation in the past two decades. While many parks have seen a dramatic increase in visitors recently, Redwood hasn’t. In fact, more guests went to Redwood in the 1980s than in the 2000s.

Our Itinerary

We started our exploration of the park in the south, and worked our way north. Our planned itinerary worked out well, but there are countless ways to plan your trip.

Our Experiences

• South Districts (Redwood NP & Prairie Creek)
  • Lyons Ranch Trail
  • Gold Bluffs Campground
  • James Irvine-Miner’s Ridge Trail with Fern Canyon
  • Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees
• North Districts (Jedediah Smith & Del Norte Coast)
  • Jedediah Smith Campground
  • Kayaking the Smith River
  • Damnation Trail
  • Boy Scout Tree Trail
• Redwood Accommodations & Restaurants

Interactive Map

Paper Maps

• North Redwood National and State Parks Map (Redwood Hikes Press)
• South Redwood National and State Parks Map (Redwood Hikes Press)
• Redwood National and State Parks Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)
• National Park Service Maps
  • Redwood National & State Parks Map (NPS)
  • Redwood National & State Parks Map – Northern Half (NPS)
  • Redwood National & State Parks Map – Southern Half (NPS)

The post Best Hikes, Itinerary and Planning Guide appeared first on KTNPBlog.

There are no restaurants or lodging (aside from campgrounds) in Redwood National & State Parks. In 2010, Redwood Hostel, previously the only lodging in the park, closed. And in 2019, the hostel building is set to be demolished. Crescent City is near the northern part of the park, and Klamath and Orick are to the south. Even further south are the towns of Arcata and Eureka.

Restaurants in Crescent City

When visiting a park, I often drag my wife to nearby breweries. If I like the beer enough, I’ll buy a pint glass souvenir. In this case, I had SeaQuake Brewing in Crescent City in mind. We decided to visit after our Redwood Creek backpacking trip, so we were starving. I got pizza with a chocolate porter and Kristin got fresh fish tacos. I enjoyed my pizza a lot, but Kristin thought the fish tacos were dry and desperately needed a sauce. The beer was good, but didn’t wow me. We did enjoy the casual atmosphere there.

A couple days later, I convinced Kristin to go back to SeaQuake. I really wanted to like it – enough to get a pint glass. This time, I got a 9.2 burger with parmesan fries and Kristin got a Thai chicken salad. This time we both liked our food. Kristin’s salad had an assortment of vegetables, crunchy noodles, and spicy peanut dressing. I got two half pints of beer, a blonde ale and coastal pale ale, which were okay, but felt forgettable. So we left, me without a pint glass. The place was packed both times and we had to wait, so maybe I’m missing something.

We went to Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant for dinner one night, while staying at Jedediah Smith Campground. Kristin ordered a torta with pork al pastor, guacamole, mayo, onion, lettuce, and tomato, which she loved. It looked like a simple sandwich, but its sweet and spicy flavors and variety of textures made it great.

I got a chimichanga platter, but thought it was one-note and nothing special. Service was a bit strange, as different servers kept coming by our table, but they were friendly. When Kristin mentioned her dairy allergy, they were very accommodating.

For breakfast the next morning, we went to Hiouchi Cafe, which is only three minutes from Jedediah Smith Campground. The waitress was friendly as she took our order. I ordered Grandma’s French Toast, which piqued my interest as a cinnamon lover. It was good but basic – and it needed more cinnamon! My bacon was kinda rubbery too.

Kristin’s dairy allergy prevented her from ordering the breakfast meals, so she ordered eggs, sausage, hash browns, avocado, and tomatoes a la carte. Some items looked okay, but the avocado was very brown, and she was surprised they served it that way. I wanted to like Hiouchi Cafe – it sounded tasty and was highly rated. But for $30, what we got wasn’t worth it.

Restaurants in Orick

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Snack Shack. This outdoor roadside joint is located in Orick, California, near Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center and the southern section of the park. With limited parking and picnic benches, some of which are shaded by umbrellas, it was one of our favorite restaurants of the trip.

Snack Shack mainly serves burgers, hotdogs, and burritos. As we ordered, a Redwood Park Ranger picked up her order, so we figured it must be good! I got the Baby Bigfoot Burger: bacon, caramelized onions, mushrooms, and pepper jack cheese. And tots. And a chocolate milkshake.

Kristin got the Hawaiian Burger, which came with pineapple and bbq sauce, and a huge order of fries. Our meal was a bit greasy, but so tasty. The milkshake was rich, thick, smooth, and chocolatey. While Snack Shack has a seemingly “fast food” vibe, our food took a while to arrive.

Snack Shack is open until 7pm, and we wished it was open later. Also, there’s no restroom, so plan ahead. There aren’t many places to eat near southern Redwood N&SP, so we highly recommend it if you’re looking for some casual-yet-delicious roadside burgers.

Accommodations Near the Park

For campgrounds in the park, check out Gold Bluffs Beach Campground and Jedediah Smith Campground.

Lighthouse Inn in Crescent City is relatively affordable, and conveniently located along highway 101. Close to the park, and at just over $100 a night, our standard room was actually quite large. Our bed was a bit springy, which made it hard to sleep. The hotel was clean, and staff was friendly.

Breakfast consisted of basics: bagels, oatmeal, hard boiled eggs, cereal, and cake (breakfast of champions). There was no hot food, unless you toasted some bread, but it got us going in the morning. They had a washer and dryer, so we took the opportunity to clean our clothes ($1.50 a load). Some of the nautical themed decor in the hotel wasn’t quite our taste, but it was an affordable place to stay.

Places

• SeaQuake Brewing | 400 Front St, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Perlita’s Authentic Mexican Restaurant | 297 US-101, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Cafe | 2095 Hwy 199, Hiouchi, CA 95531
• Snack Shack | 120779 US-101, Orick, CA 95555
• Lighthouse Inn | 681 Highway 101 South, Crescent City, CA 95531

Interactive Map

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We were feeling a bit sad on our last full day in Redwood National and State Parks. But we were going to go out with a bang. Our main activity for the day was Boy Scout Tree Trail, a 5.6 mile out-and-back hike located in Jedediah Smith State Park.

The trail is gorgeous, and features many old growth redwood trees. A small waterfall, called Fern Falls, makes the turnaround point a scenic lunch spot. Near the end of the trail is Boy Scout Tree – two redwoods that have grown together, resembling the Boy Scout salute.

Howland Hill Road

Howland Hill Road leads to Boy Scout Tree Trail. The unpaved road bisects Jedediah Smith State Park and is a great scenic drive. Along the road are trailheads for Boy Scout Tree, Mill Creek, Nickerson Ranch, and Stout Grove trails. The narrow, picturesque road winds around enormous redwood trees. It was prettier and more well-maintained than we expected. Cars pulled to the side of the busy road so visitors could take photos.

After a couple miles on Howland Hill Road, we stopped at a small parking lot for the trail. There are no restrooms at the trailhead, so plan ahead. The parking lot can fill up quickly, as this is a popular hike. But when we arrived at noon, there were still spots available. We grabbed our packs and lunch, and set off into the woods.

Boy Scout Tree

Our hike took us through a beautiful redwood forest, with sunlight occasionally streaming in through the dense trees. The trail is easy to moderate, with some rolling hills and exposed roots. We crossed a bridge over a small trickling creek and stopped to take a selfie.

We crossed several other bridges, went under overhanging trees, and climbed stairs built into the trail. Even after being in the park for a week, we marveled at the size of the redwoods – they were some of the biggest we’d seen. Along the trail we waved to some of our old friends, the banana slugs.

Ahead, we spot a sign that reads “B.S. Tree.” It’s either the Boy Scout tree, or someone is playing a joke on us. The sign points to the right, up a steep, partly-eroded trail. About 100 feet into the trail, we reach Boy Scout tree, which has a small wooden label attached. Essentially it’s two gigantic trees fused together at the bottom. Its height made it difficult to photograph!

Fern Falls

After spending a few minutes at Boy Scout Tree, we returned to the main trail and continued hiking. Ten minutes later, we arrived at Fern Falls. The waterfall is nice, but it was the wrong time of the day to photograph it as the sun was shining directly on it. Fallen trees partially blocked our view of the falls.

Nearby was a log with a view of the falls, which doubled as a picnic bench, so we relaxed and ate some lunch. Groups of hikers came and left at a steady rate, exploring the waterfall, pools, and streams. After finishing my lunch, I wanted to explore. To my surprise, I saw some small fish swimming in the pools near the falls.

As I watched the fish swim around, my eye caught another creature – a salamander. There were actually a couple of them, but they were hard to see since they blended in so well. I watched them for awhile, and called Kristin over to take a look too. These were juvenile salamanders, who spend their life in the water. What exact species, I wasn’t sure, but there are eight different species of newts and salamanders in the area according to the park website.

After some more exploring, we headed back toward the trailhead. On the way, we saw someone pushing a stroller on the trail. That seems like a losing proposition with the roots and stairs, but to each their own.

Boy Scout Tree Trail is a well-maintained trail with large redwood trees. The falls at the end were a bit disappointing, though the fish and salamanders kind of made up for it. With that, our Redwood adventure was over, and our next stop would be Crater Lake National Park.

Boy Scout Tree Trail

Dates: July 23, 2017
Type: Out-and-back day hike
Total Distance: 5.6 miles (9.0 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1386 feet (423 m)
Time: 3 hours hiking, which includes lunch and photo breaks
Trail Markings: Sign pointing to Boy Scout Tree
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: We saw a lot of groups
Water: Fern Falls, streams
Highlights: Large redwood trees, wildlife, waterfall, streams
Directions to Boy Scout Tree Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Start the trail from the parking lot
• Mile 2.4 – A sign points to a short trail on the right. Walk about 300 feet to see Boy Scout Tree. Then go back to the main trail.
• Mile 2.9 – You’ve arrived at Fern Falls. A social trail appears to continue beyond the falls. Explore, eat lunch, just be you. Then go back the way you came.
• Mile 5.6 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Boy Scout Tree Trailhead | 41.7682991, -124.1128776
• Boy Scout Tree | 41.7823324,-124.1354714
• Fern Falls |41.7818276, -124.1354898

Maps

• Boy Scout Tree Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Boy Scout Tree Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

After checking out of Jedediah Smith Campground, we drove along route 101 to a trail with an awkward name. Damnation Creek Trail is in Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, part of Redwood National & State Parks. It’s a well-known hike, and considered one of the best in the park. The trail descends 2.1 miles through redwood trees, and across Damnation Creek, to a coastal rocky beach. It’s both a diverse and difficult hike.

Descending Damnation Creek Trail

When we arrived at the small parking area along route 101 around 1pm, there were only a few spots available. As we started on the trail, we saw a sign that warned that the trail dropped 1000 feet. After an initial ascent of about 100 feet, we began a steady descent. And since this trail is an out-and-back, we would have to hike back up.

Soon Damnation Creek Trail intersected with the Coastal Trail, and we started descending more steeply. A sign near the intersection read “bridge failure,” and referred to a bridge near the end of the trail. We had spoken to a NPS intern, who told us that hikers had been crossing the bridge, even though the NPS didn’t recommend it.

We hit some switchbacks and descended into fog. The redwoods become more sparse as we headed toward the coast, and we could see the ocean peeking through the trees. The trail is very narrow, steep, and wet in spots – so some sections of the trail are eroded.

The Coast

As we neared the coast, we arrived at a wooden bridge with orange plastic webbing. Was this the bridge that was closed? We weren’t sure, since it didn’t appear to be blocked off. I thought about turning around and going back the way we came, but we decided to cross one at a time instead. The creek was just a few feet below…but this may have been a bad life decision. The trail led through tall grass and wildflowers to a view of the ocean, where we took photos of the coast shrouded in heavy fog.

Precariously steep steps carved into the side of the hill led to a stream, and finally a rocky beach. We explored and took photos, particularly of the rocks in the ocean, which reminded us of Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach, Oregon. Under the viewpoint we had come from, there was a small passageway that led to the south side of the beach.

It was time for a late lunch, so we found a spot with a great view. The other groups of beach-goers slowly disappeared, and we eventually had some solitude to relax and enjoy the beach. As we ate, the fog lifted and the weather became hot and sunny.

Ascending Damnation Creek Trail

You might be saying the name of the trail as you ascend the steep incline. The return hike was difficult for us at first, but once we got past the eroded, narrow part of the trail, it was just a moderate uphill hike. As we hiked up, we passed a sign saying we were leaving a tsunami zone…good to know!

We had hoped to hike some other trails in the park, but were pretty tired. Our consolation prize was heading back into Crescent City for dinner. On the way, we discussed how much we had enjoyed the varied terrain and plant life along Damnation Creek Trail. It turned out to be one of our favorites – despite its elevation gain and quirky name.

Damnation Creek Trail

Date: July 22, 2017
Type: Out and back hike
Total Distance: 4.2 miles (6.8 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1694 feet (516 m)
Time: 4 hours, which includes lunch and photo breaks
Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: Moderate
Water: Beach access, and some streams near the coast
Highlights: Ocean, rocky beach, streams, large trees, wildlife
Note: Please check with NPS before you hike this route regarding the bridge closure
Directions to Damnation Creek Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From the parking lot, take Damnation Creek Trail. The trail will ascend briefly before descending.
• Mile 0.5 – At the intersection with the Coastal Trail, keep right on Damnation Creek Trail.
• Mile 0.6 – Damnation Creek Trail intersects with the Coastal Trail again. Follow the sign for Damnation Creek Trail.
• Mile 2.1 – Hopefully you made it to the coast! Enjoy, then head back the way you came.
• Mile 4.2 – Back at the parking lot.

Places

• Damnation Creek Trailhead

Maps

• Damnation Creek Trail Map (KTNP)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Damnation Creek Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Kayaking is a lot of fun…especially when it’s free. Redwood National & State Parks runs a free ranger guided kayak tour on the Smith River, with a limited number of spots available. Sign up early so you don’t miss out!

Planning

The Smith River is a National Wild & Scenic River, and is the largest free-flowing river system in California. It runs along the park’s northern border, past the town of Hiouchi and Jedediah Smith Campground. The route, which goes through the Smith River National Recreation Area, is about 3 miles long through class I-II whitewater. It’s not too challenging, but still fun in a tandem kayak.

Kayak trips are available on a first come, first served basis. To give yourself the best chance, sign up a few days early, or having a range of dates in mind. At Hiouchi Visitor Center, we flipped through the available dates, and found the one we wanted, four days out. The trip was already half full (6 out of 12 spots), and we added our names to the list.

At 11:30 a.m. the day of our trip, we arrived at Hiouchi Visitor Center. We watched a safety video, and got suited up with helmets and life jackets. We brought our own dry bags for our lunch and personal items, but our guide also provided one for guests to use. At 12:20 p.m., a shuttle arrived to take us to the put-in. The shuttle costs $2 per person, so technically the trip isn’t completely free, though you could also drive yourself.

Kayaking the Smith River

We rode the shuttle a few miles east to the put-in at Forks River Access, where we met Laura, a park ranger and our kayaking guide. Brad, an intern with the National Park Service, also helped guide our trip. The clear Smith River looked blue-green, and the sun shone, making it an ideal day for kayaking. There were no redwood trees where we began our trip, but they lined the river later on.

With the help of the rangers, we got into our inflatable tandem kayaks and started down the river. Our guides gave verbal instructions as we went single file through the (mostly class I) rapids. It was breezy, and we learned how to steer as we paddled, but we made it through the rapids easily. Even for a class I they were still really fun! We got splashed a bit, especially me, since I was in front.

A few times, our guides had to free our kayak from rocks. They said the river was the lowest it’s been in awhile, so we were bottoming out. One boat capsized, and the guides helped the guests back onto the boat. But it looked like they were having a great time, and the water was only waist high.

Lunch Time

After a couple miles, we stopped at a beach near Stout Grove for lunch. Everyone sat on the sunny beach eating their lunch (bring your own, not provided). After lunch, we only had a half mile to go. We climbed back in our kayaks, and directly in front of us was the seasonal bridge that connects Stout Grove with Jedediah Smith Campground. It’s a low bridge, so we anticipated a challenge paddling under it.

We aimed for the middle of the bridge, where we’d have the highest clearance. One guide joked that the lower you go, the more respect you get. If you go under a section of the bridge with lower clearance, you might have to duck. Aiming well, we went under and tucked in our paddles to avoid disaster. We popped out the other side and were on our way!

The largest rapid, a class II, was near the end of the trip. It looked slightly larger, but the real test was paddling through it. Travis got splashed, but I got soaked! Soon after, we arrived at Jedediah Smith Campground.

We got out of our kayak, and onto a rocky beach. Then we climbed up a hill that was covered with loose rocks. The guides strongly recommended we keep our helmets on, as visitors had slipped in this area. After trudging through more loose rocks, we loaded our helmets and vests onto a truck, and walked 10 minutes back to Hiouchi Visitor Center. At the visitor center, we gave a donation (as mentioned on the NPS webs), though the park staff seemed confused when we tried to give them money.

We had a blast on this trip, and for free, you can’t beat it!

Places

• Hiouchi Visitor Center | 1600 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Forks River Access and Boat Ramp | 41.8350428, -124.0669019
• Lunch Point at Stout Grove | 41.7920548,-124.0861959
• Jedediah Smith Campground Day Use Area Exit | 41.8027708,-124.0873676

Links

• Ranger-led Kayak Tours on NPS Website

Interactive Map

The post Kayaking the Smith River appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We reserved our campsite the day it became available so we wouldn’t miss out. We went through the same process for our stay at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. Since then, the reservation process has changed, but can still be challenging to navigate.

After our dinner at SeaQuake Brewing in Crescent City, we arrived at Jed Smith campground. Our site, #18, had a bear box, picnic table, and fire ring. It is conveniently located across from one of the three restrooms in the campground. Each restroom has flush toilets, sinks, and showers. There was no soap, or even sanitizer – we definitely recommend bringing your own!

To continue the glamping experience, we also took hot showers. There were two shower stalls, each with a changing area. It cost $0.50 for two minutes (a steal), and $0.25 for each additional minute. The water took about 30 seconds to warm up, and was well worth it. The bathrooms were clean, and we were grateful for a hot shower.

The campground was quiet, which made for a peaceful night’s sleep. When we awoke the next morning, we could see our campsite a lot better. It was a mostly shaded spot with redwoods, though close to some neighbors. Behind us was a stunning view of the emerald green Smith River and sandy beach. Additionally, directly behind our site was River Beach Trail, which winds around the campground.

The northern part of Jed Smith campground has five “hike and bike-in” campsites. There are also 4 sparse cabins in the campground. They cost $100 per night, which seems steep. Still, part of me wishes we had stayed there, just for the experience.

After a quick oatmeal breakfast, we walked to Jedediah Smith Visitor Center, which is centrally located within the campground. It has a small gift shop, and behind it is an amphitheater that hosts ranger programs a few evenings a week. A day use area also allows river access to non-campers for $8 per car. According to the park website, day access is free to those who hike or bike in.

Next we headed to Hiouchi Visitor Center, where we met for a kayaking trip on Smith River. It’s an easy walk along the road, less than a quarter mile from the campground.

After our kayaking trip, we headed to the beach near our campsite to warm up. It was a sunny afternoon in the 70s, and a number of other visitors were enjoying the area too. A log staircase, with no handrail, led to the beach – so we had to be careful.

While we really enjoyed our campsite, we did see larger sites that were closer to the river and nearer to large redwood trees. Those campsites, 47-58, were on the lower level on a smaller loop. I might try to reserve one of those someday when we return. But you really can’t go wrong with any site in this peaceful and well-maintained campground. This was my favorite campground so far on our adventures, aside from the primitive Duck Harbor Campground in Acadia NP.

Jedediah Smith Campground | 86 Campsites | 7 Hike-in Campsites | 4 Cabins

Date Visited: July 20 – 22, 2017
Location: Jedediah Smith State Park, 10 miles east of Crescent City, CA (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Hot Showers | Cabins | Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Bear boxes | Visitor Center
Dates Open: Year-round
Prices: $35/night for campsite | $100/night for cabin (summer), $80/night (winter)
Highlights: Redwood trees, beach
Best Sites: We recommend any site, but sites 47-58 are closer to the beach with larger redwood trees.
Notes: Reservations are accepted up to six months in advance and no less than 48 hours; otherwise first-come, first served. Check-in time is 2pm, check-out is 12:00 pm. Most popular dates are mid-May through late September.

Places

• Jedediah Smith Campground | 1461 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Chevron (for supplies) | 2100 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531

Maps

• Jedediah Smith Campground Map

Links

• Jedediah Smith Campground Reservations

Interactive Map

The post Jedediah Smith Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Planning

There are plenty of places to backpack in Redwood National & State Parks. All backcountry camping must be done at designated campsites – except for Redwood Creek, located in southern Redwood National Park. Along the creek, camping on gravel bars is allowed. We only had time to do one backpacking trip in the park, and Redwood Creek was our choice.

There are two possible entry points to Redwood Creek – Redwood Creek trailhead and Tall Trees trailhead. Redwood Creek trailhead, which is near highway 101, has had several reported car break-ins. A ranger at Kuchel Visitor Center recommended starting from Tall Trees trailhead, since the parking lot is beyond a locked gate. We decided on Tall Trees for security and so we could include Tall Trees Grove, which has some of the largest redwood trees in the park.

We decided on a relatively easy-going route that was only 6.8 miles, and 971 feet of elevation gain. It included Tall Trees Grove, then hiking on the Redwood Creeks’ gravel bars. There are no trails along the creek, and we often found ourselves wading through the water. Water shoes are critical for the hike, and trekking poles are highly recommended. With the right equipment, this hike is a fun experience.

Backpacking permits in Redwood are free (honestly they *should* charge a nominal fee). Permits can be obtained up to 24 hours before your trip at Hiouchi or Kuchel Visitor Centers. They are limited and first-come-first-served. The park allows 50 visitors per night to camp along the gravel bars by Redwood Creek. When we picked up our permit, the rangers provided a code for the locked gate that allows only permitted hikers into Tall Trees Grove.

Updated: Starting in June 2020, backcountry permits are only being issued online, so our earlier experience is out of date. Permits can be requested up to 160 days in advance, but no later than 24 hours prior. If you want to park at Tall Trees Grove, which is what we did, then you must also have an additional Tall Trees Trail permit. This is also available online, and can be reserved 180 days in advance. You’ll need an all day permit for each day that you’re parked at the trailhead. There is a limit of 35 all-day permits, each day. The park recommends getting the Tall Trees permits first, before getting the backcountry permits. Once you have a Tall Trees permit, the gate access code will be sent 24 hours before your hiking date. All permits are free.

Day 1 – To the Trailhead

We took Bald Hills Road to Tall Trees trailhead – the same road we drove to Lyons Ranch a few days prior. After a few tries, we managed to unlock the gate, drove through, and hopped out again to lock the gate behind us. Beyond the gate is a six-mile winding gravel road.

Once we parked, we got our packs, and headed to Tall Trees Trail. There’s supposed to be an interpretive trail guide at the trailhead, but sadly none were available. We started on Tall Trees trail, which only goes for 100 feet before coming to a fork. Tall Trees trail continues on the right. The following day, we returned via Emerald Ridge Trail on the left.

Day 1 – Tall Trees Trail

Tall Trees Trail descends steadily among redwoods and other trees. Some of the redwood trees that had fallen on the trail had neat cutouts for us to travel through. We took our time, stopping occasionally to rest on a bench, and just enjoyed the scenery and peacefulness. Shortly before reaching Tall Trees Grove, there’s a pretty area with large redwood trees and benches.

After 1.4 miles, we reached Tall Trees Grove, and started exploring the upper part of Tall Trees Loop. Some trees are marked with a wooden post with a number etched into it. This matches up with the interpretive guide (if it’s available at the trailhead). Since we didn’t have the guide, we felt a bit lost, but we still appreciated the enormity of the trees.

The previous record holder of “world’s tallest tree” is in Tall Trees Grove. Howard Libby Tree, also called “Tall Tree,” held the title until 1994 when the top died back. It’s currently 368 feet tall and is the 34th tallest tree in the world. Since we didn’t have a trail brochure (a recurring theme) we didn’t know exactly which tree it was at the time, though we would find it on the lower part of Tall Trees Loop.

Day 1 – Redwood Creek

As we made our way through the grove, we passed a few other groups, and then saw our first glimpse of Redwood Creek through the trees. The trail led us onto a gravel bar for a better view. We took a break on the rocky beach. It was a gorgeous day – sunny with very blue sky.

A seasonal bridge crosses Redwood Creek from June-September. As we crossed it, we looked down through crystal clear, yet blue-green water, to the colorful rocks on the creek bed. We passed a trail on our left that leads to 44 camp (a backcountry campground), but we continued downstream on the gravel bars to make camp. Camping is allowed as long as your site is at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove.

It was about 3:30 p.m. and several groups had already set up camp nearby. They were well-spaced for privacy, and each stretch of beach has a good spot to camp. Fire rings are scattered around, generally near sandier areas. Fires are only allowed on Redwood Creek gravel bars. We reached our first stream crossing, and decided it was time to change into our water shoes. The water was cool, and the rocks were a bit slippery, but we made it across easily. The water was about a foot deep.

Immediately after crossing the stream, Kristin noticed something ahead of us. Small animals running from the shore toward the trees. She called out to me, and I grabbed my camera and managed to snap some photos. They were so small we initially thought they were squirrels. We don’t know exactly what they were – river otters or maybe minks? If anyone knows, please add a comment!

These were not the only animals we saw either. As we hiked, we saw tadpoles in a small, secluded part of the creek. Naturally, where there are tadpoles, there are frogs and toads. We started seeing a lot of them. They were small, about an inch wide, so they were probably juveniles. They blend in quite well so watch where you step!

As we went downstream, we crossed a few places (glad to have water shoes) until we found a sunny, sandy spot to set up camp. It was soon after the creek turned around a bend, so we had some privacy. The curve in the creek also allowed some sunlight in, which helped dry our damp clothing and shoes. We set up our tent and relaxed.

While we were relaxing, some other hikers came carrying a large cooler… we stared a bit. They continued past our campsite further downstream and we wondered how they would bear-proof the cooler. We had trouble ourselves finding a spot to hang our bear bag – there weren’t a lot of good branches along the creek bank. Eventually we found one, less than ideal, but the best we could do.

We loved camping on the beach. It was private, and we got to have dinner by the creek. There was easy access to a water source to filter. The park actually recommends filtering water from tributaries, rather than directly from Redwood Creek (see the Backcountry Guide). We weren’t aware of that when we were there, and we’re not sure why that is. We fell asleep to the sounds of the creek gurgling and frogs croaking.

Day 2 – Redwood Creek

The next morning we retrieved our bear bag, and enjoyed some oatmeal by the creek. There was lingering fog and it took a long time for the sun to burn it away. We packed our things, said goodbye, and headed back the way we came. The creek was colder than yesterday, and the sky threatened to rain – luckily it only amounted to a few brief showers.

When we reached the seasonal bridge back to Tall Trees Grove, we saw a group camping right outside the grove. Whoops. The park service provides info about campsite restrictions when you request a permit, but signs might help too. It was a bit awkward also, as we passed a group eating breakfast next to the trail.

Ducking back into the forest, we went through the lower portion of Tall Trees Loop. Like the upper portion, it boasts many large redwood trees. However, the lower portion has more of a prehistoric feel with its moss-covered maple trees and lush ferns.

Along much of the trail, we could see Redwood Creek to our right. Along this section is the Howard Libby Tree, once the world’s tallest tree (now the 34th tallest). In addition to the Libby Tree there is also Nugget, the world’s 3rd tallest tree and Paul Zahl, the world’s 17th tallest tree.

Soon we came to an intersection, and a sign that said “To Emerald Ridge Trail – Summer Use Only – Extensive Wading.” Yeah, that sounds about right. We turned onto the trail and were back on a rocky beach, similar to where we had camped. Our plan was to hike along (and in) the creek for 1.6 miles until we reached Emerald Ridge Trail.

This section of trail has more creek crossings. The first crossing was freezing cold as a inland shaded stream flowed into Redwood Creek. Around here, we passed the only group of people we’d see on this section of Redwood Creek. They were a group of 12 people from Australia and we chatted for a bit. They had 6 adults and 6 kids and had camped near the Emerald Ridge Trail. Since the water was deep in some places, some of them hiked out twice – once to carry gear, and once to carry their kids!

Continuing, we came upon longer crossings, with deeper water. Sometimes we had to walk in the creek for several hundred feet before getting to a bank. Other times it was like a maze. There were downed trees in the creek that we had to climb over. Reflections on the water prevented us from discerning its depth. It was a lot of fun!

At one point we couldn’t see any beach ahead of us, just water. We found what might be a path through bushes on land, but it became too dense. We went back in the water and went along the left side. Then it got too deep.  So, we doubled back and went on the right side, which worked for a while.  Then it got too deep, so we headed diagonally forward, back to the left side! 

We picked our way through slowly, and eventually made it to the next beach area. Even though we rolled our shorts up, they still got wet – giving us an idea of how deep the water was in some spots. We were in the water for maybe 15 minutes during this stretch. Trekking poles were necessary to help stabilize us and gauge water depth. Water shoes also helped us keep our balance.

Day 2 – Emerald Ridge Trail

Eventually we stopped and checked the map, and compared it to where our phone GPS placed us. That way we wouldn’t get lost and miss the left turn onto Emerald Ridge Trail. Judging by the map, we were almost there. Soon enough we spotted a tree with an orange marker, and headed toward it. As we got closer, we could read the word “TRAIL” on it. An adjacent sign told us this was Emerald Ridge Trail.

It had gotten quite warm and sunny – different from the foggy, drizzly morning. It was time to swap out our water shoes for hiking boots. Warm dry socks felt so good on our chilled feet. We clipped our soggy water shoes to our backpacks and continued.

Emerald Ridge Trail ascended through a tunnel of small trees and shrubs. The trail has some signs of erosion, due to its elevation gain, as it heads back to the parking lot. We came upon a recently downed tree that we climbed over. It’s a pleasant trail, but there’s not much else to note. We passed Dolason Prairie Trail and lamented that we wouldn’t have time to hike it.

We were getting a bit tired due to the incline, but we finally returned to the parking lot. Happy with our trip, we got in the car and headed out along the gravel road. When we got to the gate, there was a couple entering and they asked us if we had left the gate open. We had not, but apparently whoever entered the area before them neglected to lock the gate. Exiting could be a problem for parties who enter without the combination, so make sure you close and lock the gate!

This was our favorite hike in Redwood National & State Parks. It’s different than any hike we’d ever done. Hiking through a creek and seeing the large redwood trees was an experience. The animals we saw only added to the splendor of the trail. So yeah, we recommend this trip wholeheartedly. You won’t regret it (unless you get lost).

Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees Trail

Date Visited:July 19, 2017 – July 20, 2017
Type: Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 6.8 miles (10.9 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 973 feet (297 m)

• Day 1 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 2.6 miles (4.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 204 feet (62 m) gain, 916 feet (279 m) loss
  • Time: 3.5 hours hiking which includes occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A site along Redwood Creek
• Day 2 (estimates depend on campsite):
  • Distance: 4.2 miles (6.7 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 769 feet (234 m) gain, 57 feet (17 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours hiking which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections. No markings along Redwood Creek.
Difficulty: Moderate, as long as you have the right equipment.
Crowds: About a half dozen groups along Redwood Creek; more near Tall Trees Grove.
Water: Redwood Creek, streams
Highlights: Large redwood trees, primeval forests, solitude, wildlife, streams, rocky beaches, wading through Redwood Creek
Note: There are many ways you can do this hike. The distances and elevations are just estimates based on what we did. Make sure you camp at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove. Water shoes and trekking poles are highly recommended for wading.
Directions to Tall Trees Trailhead: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Tall Trees Trailhead, take Tall Trees Trail. After 100 feet, the trail splits. Stay right on Tall Trees Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – At the intersection with Tall Trees Loop, head right onto the upper portion of Tall Trees Trail.
• Mile 1.8 – Turn right onto the Redwood Creek Trail, that leads out of the forest. Once you get to the creek, you’ll see a seasonal bridge (in summer), across the creek. Cross the bridge and head right (downstream). Walk along the creek until you find a campsite.
• Mile 2.6 – This was around where we camped, but feel free to camp anywhere (at least 1/4 mile from Tall Trees Grove). Enjoy the river, and head back the same way in the morning.
• Mile 3.4 – Go back into Tall Trees Grove. This time, head right at the intersection with Tall Trees Trail – you’ll walk through the lower part of Tall Trees Loop. Near the end of this section is the Libby Tree.
• Mile 3.9 – Turn right at this intersection that heads toward Redwood Creek. A sign warns “To Emerald Ridge Trail – Summer Use Only – Extensive Wading.” Once at the creek, follow it upstream for 1.6 miles. There is no defined trail here, you’ll be wading from gravel bar to gravel bar.
• Mile 5.5 – Look for an orange marker on the left that says “TRAIL.” Turn left onto Emerald Ridge Trail, and leave the creek behind.
• Mile 5.9 – Continue straight, as you pass the intersection with Dolason Prairie Trail.
• Mile 6.8 – Intersection with Tall Trees Trail. Continue right for 100 feet and you’re back at the parking lot.

Places

• Hiouchi Visitor Center | 1600 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Thomas H. Kuchel Visitor Center | US Highway 101 at Orick, Calif.
• Tall Trees Trailhead | 41.2081242, -123.9953206
• Howard Libby Tree |41.20818, -124.013402
• Nugget Tree |41.20963, -124.01215
• Paul Zahl Tree | 41.20792, -124.01138
• Our Campsite on Redwood Creek | 41.219028, -124009484

Maps

• Redwood Creek & Tall Trees Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Backcountry Trip Planner (NPS)
• NPS Article on Tall Trees Grove
• Famous Redwoods – Tall Trees Grove Description
• Backcountry Permits (NPS)
• Backcountry Permit Requests (Redwood Parks Conservancy)
• Tall Trees Trail Permits (NPS)
• Tall Trees Trail Permits Requests (Redwood Parks Conservancy)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Redwood Creek & Tall Trees appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We woke up in our campsite at Gold Bluffs Beach in Redwood National & State Parks refreshed and ready to go. Our plan was to hike to the picturesque Fern Canyon, one of the most popular spots in the park. Ferns line its walls and a stream runs through it. Part of Jurassic Park 2 was filmed there due to its primeval appearance.

The trail to Fern Canyon is a 12.1 mile loop linking the James Irvine and Miner’s Ridge trails. We had read that it’s one of the best trails in the park due to its range of environments. From the redwood forest…to coastal sitka spruce forests…to the beach…to the fern canyon. Woody Guthrie would be proud.

If all you want to do is visit Fern Canyon, you can park in a (large but crowded) lot past Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. But we prefer the diversity offered by hiking in. The loop trail starts out at Prairie Creek Visitor Center on James Irvine Trail before arriving at Fern Canyon. After exploring the canyon, we hiked along the coast past Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, then headed back to the visitor center along Miner’s Ridge Trail.

Prairie Creek Trail

We should have left earlier for this hike. The lot at Prairie Creek Visitor Center was crowded, and only 30-minute parking was available. We settled for parking along the shoulder of a nearby road. From the visitor center, we followed signs for Prairie Creek Trail, which continued a short distance before intersecting with James Irvine Trail.

The start of Prairie Creek Trail features wooden bridges over Boyes and Prairie Creeks. Along the way were the first big redwood trees we had seen. Looking up at them was almost spiritual. Although we saw many redwood trees during our trip, I’ll always remember the first time we saw them, and the sense of wonder I felt.

Redwoods (Sequoia sempervirens) are the tallest trees on Earth. They can live for thousands of years and grow up to 380 feet tall. In 1850, there were two million acres of redwood trees along the California coast. For this reason, they are sometimes referred to as coastal redwoods. Today, there are just 110,000 acres of old-growth redwoods (trees that have not been cut down or significantly disturbed). This represents about 7% of the current total 1.6 million acres of coastal redwoods.

James Irvine Trail

Initially, we shared the trail with many other hikers, since it leaves from the visitor center. About 0.2 miles into the hike, we turned right onto James Irvine Trail. The trail is rolling without any huge sustained elevation gains. We left the majority of the crowds behind, but still ran into people occasionally on this part of the trail.

James Irvine, the trail’s namesake, lived from 1867 to 1947. He was a member of the Save the Redwoods League. His financial support allowed the league to purchase and protect more of the redwood forest.

The trail has ferns, redwoods, and other greenery everywhere. Being there elicited a mystical feeling and made me feel small, like a little kid. We kept stopping to admire the unique trees and say, “Wow, cool!”

The ground seemed to be covered with purple flowers. When we stopped to take a closer look, we discovered that they weren’t flowers, but purple leaves. It was the underside of Redwood Sorrel, which look similar to clovers. The top of the leaves are green and the bottoms are purple.

I enjoy looking for wildlife, but it can be tricky to get good photos. Some creatures make it a bit easier by moving slower. On James Irvine Trail, we found our first banana slug (Ariolimax columbianus). Later on, we found them all over the place, but it was always exciting to spot them. I know it’s a slug and all, but compared to the slugs at home it’s huge and bright yellow! So it’s special. The slug is widespread in the pacific northwest and can grow up to 7 inches long.

We passed the intersection with Miner’s Ridge Trail, which would be our return route. It would be another 4.4 miles until we reached Fern Canyon. Along the way, we also passed Clintonia Trail, which can be used to create a shorter loop (though you’d skip Fern Canyon and Gold Bluffs Beach). As we got closer to the coast, we saw fewer redwoods and more sitka spruce trees. Redwoods don’t like the ocean’s salt spray and wind, so they don’t grow near the coast.

Fern Canyon

As we approached the intersection with Fern Canyon Trail, a sign stated that the trail entrance was closed. I was pretty bummed, thinking we wouldn’t be able to see Fern Canyon. Kristin kept my spirits up as we continued hiking toward the coast.

Upon reaching the other side of Fern Canyon, we were relieved to find that it was accessible there. A steady stream of people headed into the canyon from the nearby parking lot. Home Creek flows through the canyon, with its pebble-covered sandy beaches on either side. The park service had placed seasonal wood planks over the creek so visitors wouldn’t have to trudge through water. Layers of moss and ferns lined the canyon walls, as rivulets of water cascaded down.

Deeper into the canyon we went, over fallen logs, across the creek. It was spectacular, undoubtedly the most memorable part of our hike. The trail only goes back so far before we reached downed trees, logs, and debris blocking the route further into the canyon. We assumed this was why we saw the closure sign earlier. We retraced our steps out of the canyon.

Gold Bluffs Beach

Immediately after passing through Fern Canyon, the trail brought us out into the sunlight. We were no longer surrounded by large trees, and we approached the beach. Our next stop would be Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, where we were staying. We had two route options: the gravel road, or along the beach.

The beach sounded like a more interesting option. The Coastal Trail runs along the beach throughout much of Redwood National Park, and we found the access trail by Fern Canyon Parking Lot (near the restrooms). Unfortunately, as we got closer to the beach, we ran into a flooded swampy area. We had the option to hike through it, but we chickened out and went back to the gravel road.

We recommend checking out the Coastal Trail if you can get there. The gravel road was nothing special, but it was easy going despite a few streams that crossed it. We had to watch out for the occasional car that trundled its way past us on the way to or from Fern Canyon.

Soon we arrived at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, which finally felt warm and sunny! We decided to rest at our campsite for a couple minutes and just enjoy it. After walking to the beach, we wished we hadn’t already eaten our lunch. Then it was time to tackle Miner’s Ridge.

Miner’s Ridge Trail

The trail starts across the gravel road from the campground. It leads into the forest en route to Prairie Creek Visitor Center in 4.6 miles. By now we were tired, and we had a growing number of blisters on our feet. That’s what we get for not hiking much prior to the trip. We put some moleskin and band-aids on our feet and continued on.

Since we were near the coast, we began seeing more sitka spruce. But as we hiked inland, redwoods slowly started popping up again. Soon we passed a tsunami evacuation site. Signs on various trails warn that you’ve entered a tsunami area, so if ever the worst happens, head up Miner’s Ridge Trail.

Much of Miner’s Ridge Trail is similar to James Irvine Trail. We saw plenty of big trees, but after hours of hiking they just don’t seem as spectacular as they did at the beginning. It’s sad to say, but they were amazing again by our next hike. We saw wildflowers, crossed more bridges and streams, and enjoyed the sun streaming through the trees.

By the time we reached the visitor center, the parking lot was empty. The field nearby glowed as the sun began to set. There were no elk in sight, though it seemed like a good time and place to spot one.

We wished we had done this hike a bit later in our trip when we had gotten our “hiking legs” back. We also wished we had set out earlier in the day, since this hike is a longer one. Overall, it’s a fun hike that shows off many interesting and diverse park features.

James Irvine and Miner’s Ridge Loop Trail with Fern Canyon

Date Visited: July 18, 2017
Type: Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 12.1 miles (19.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2685 feet (818 m)
Time: 7.5 hours which includes lunch and rest breaks
Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections
Difficulty: Strenuous, due to the distance
Crowds: Minimal, except at Prairie Creek Visitor Center and Fern Canyon
Water: The ocean, few creeks that are crossed, stream through Fern Canyon
Highlights: Large redwood trees, fern canyon, primeval forests, beach and ocean coastline, solitude, wildlife, streams
Note: You can do this hike in either direction. We don’t see an advantage to either. If the back entrance of Fern Canyon is open, you can hike through there without backtracking through the canyon. To get to Miner’s Ridge Trail from Fern Canyon, you can either walk along the road or try the Coastal Trail.
Directions to Prairie Creek Visitor Center: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Prairie Creek Visitor Center, walk north until you see the trailhead sign for Prairie Creek Trail. Turn right onto the trail, and go over a bridge. Marvel at the redwood trees.
• Mile 0.1 – Continue straight at the intersection
• Mile 0.2 – Continue straight at the intersection with West Ridge Trail for 60 feet. Turn right onto James Irvine Trail.
• Mile 0.9 – Intersection with Miner’s Ridge Trail; keep right to continue on James Irvine Trail
• Mile 3.3 – Continue straight on James Irvine Trail. Clintonia Trail, to your left, could be used to make a shorter loop
• Mile 4.7 – Intersection with Friendship Ridge Trail; continue straight
• Mile 5.0 – Intersection with the back entrance to Fern Canyon Trail. If it’s closed, continue straight on James Irvine. If it’s open, you can go left onto Fern Canyon Trail. These directions assume the back entrance is closed.
• Mile 5.3 – Front entrance of Fern Canyon. Go in as far as you can, following Home Creek. Once you can’t go any further, double back to the canyon entrance
• Mile 6.1 – Once back at the entrance to Fern Canyon, turn left onto Gold Bluffs Trail
• Mile 6.3 – At the Fern Canyon parking lot; restrooms (outhouses) are available. Two choices: you can either take the gravel road (Gold Bluffs Beach Road), or you can take the Coastal Trail along the beach (access trail at the back of Fern Canyon parking lot). We chose the gravel road because the connecting path was flooded.
• Mile 7.5 – Take Miner’s Ridge Trail which leads into the forest on the left. You’ll see a tsunami evacuation site after a couple minutes on the trail. If you want to check out Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, it’s 500 feet beyond the Miner’s Ridge Trail and gravel road intersection.
• Mile 9.5 – At the intersection with Clintonia Trail. Continue straight on Miner’s Ridge Trail.
• Mile 11.3 – You’ve completed the loop and are back on James Irvine Trail. Continue straight.
• Mile 11.9 – Turn left at this intersection. 60 feet later, you’ll come to another intersection with West Ridge Trail. Continue straight.
• Mile 12.0 – Intersection with Prairie Creek Trail – continue straight
• Mile 12.1 – Back at Prairie Creek Visitor Center!

Places

• Fern Canyon | 41.4016634, -124.0737641
• Gold Bluffs Beach Campground | 41.3835728,-124.0717255
• Prairie Creek Visitor Center | Newton B. Drury Scenic Pkwy, Orick, CA 95555

Maps

• James Irvine-Miner’s Ridge Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Reservations for Gold Bluffs Beach Campground
• NPS Article on Banana Slugs
• NPS Article on Redwood Trees
• Save the Redwoods League – Coast Redwoods
• Orange Coast Article About James Irvine

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post James Irvine and Miner’s Ridge Trails with Fern Canyon appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Reserving a campsite at any campground in Redwood can be a challenge. Back in 2017 when we reserved a site for Gold Bluffs, we were online the moment the sites became available. Since then, the process has changed slightly, but sites still need to be booked as soon as possible. A campsite will become available on the corresponding day six months in advance (for example, you can reserve a site for July 5 beginning on January 5). We had listed some preferred sites, and we were thrilled when we were able to reserve a site.

According to a sign in the park, the colorful cliffs along the beach preserve part of an ancient river, which eroded gold deposits that were carried to the ocean. Along the way, the gold mixed with sediment and formed the bluffs over time. In the 1850s, prospectors found a way to mine the gold, too. Hence, the area is known as Gold Bluffs.

Arriving at the Campground

After our first hike in Redwood National Park, Lyons Ranch, we drove to Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. The campground is located in Prairie Creek State Park. We turned onto the unpaved Davison Road and were immediately greeted by a dark, dusty scene. Redwood trees blocked much of the sunlight, and plants lining the road were covered with dirt. It was a bit like entering another world.

From the intersection of Redwood Highway and Davison Road, the drive is about 5.6 miles, according to Google Maps. At dusk, we could see an occasional ray of sun peeking through. This gave off an eerie vibe which we didn’t expect. It felt like a long trip, though it only took about 20 minutes.

We arrived at the campground after 5pm, so the registration kiosk had closed. Our campsite was reserved and labeled with our name. We set up our tent, then explored the campground. We planned to pick up our parking pass the next morning.

First, we went to the camp host to purchase a bundle of firewood (sold from 5-8 pm except on Wednesdays and Thursdays). The camp host site is near the restrooms, which lacked lights, but they had flush toilets and were fully enclosed! Also nearby are solar showers, which are free for campers. The hot water doesn’t last long (if at all), but it’s warmer than jumping in the ocean. It was finicky, but pushing the button in firmly finally got it going.

Finally, we checked out the campground’s biggest attraction: the adjacent beach. But the weather was miserable – cold, grey, and dreary. Likewise, the ocean was rough and chilly. We hoped a hot dinner (hot dogs, of course) would improve our mood. The wind made it tricky to start a fire, but we used our backpacking stove to light our firestarter. Aren’t we creative?

We kept our food in the bear box while preparing dinner because there were large birds throughout the campground. All went smoothly, until a crow swooped down and tried to fly off with hotdog buns I had mistakenly placed on top of the bear box for a moment. He managed to impale the buns in the front of the package, but it was too heavy and he dropped it. Thankfully, we were able to salvage a few buns.

It was cold, and we were worried about the birds dive-bombing our dinner, so we ate in the car. This wasn’t quite the “beach camping” experience we had in mind. At least our tent was cozy. When we awoke the next morning, the campground was still blustery and cold (in the 50s or so). To avoid the wind, we opted for a quick breakfast (you guessed it…in our car).

Warming Up

That morning, we left Gold Bluffs to hike the James Irvine & Miner’s Ridge Trails. On the way, we stopped by Elk Meadow Picnic Area, located at the end of Davison Road near highway 101. We had read that it’s (not surprisingly) a good place to spot Roosevelt elk, and we saw four of them! Apparently, elk frequent Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, but we didn’t see any there.

Later that day, we walked through Gold Bluffs Beach Campground while hiking the James Irvine & Miner’s Ridge Trail. The sun had come out, and the campground and beach had warmed up significantly. The ocean looked blue rather than the colorless abyss we’d left behind that morning. The black and white sand had gotten quite hot in places. We enjoyed the beach, but we couldn’t linger since we planned to hike 12 miles that day.

Our visit to Gold Bluffs Beach Campground was a reminder that we should stop and relax every once in awhile rather than trying to see everything. But the next morning, we awoke to an unfamiliar sight – the sun was coming out! We had to check out by noon, which gave us plenty of time to enjoy our last day at the campground.

As we packed up and ate breakfast, the sun slowly warmed up the world. The area was finally “gold” like its name suggests. It was warm and sunny with the beachy vibes we’d been hoping for. Our experience wasn’t exactly what we had in mind, but we learned a lot about flexibility and the climate of northern California.

Gold Bluffs Campground | 26 Campsites | 1 Hike-in Campsite

Date Visited: July 17 – 19, 2017
Location: Prairie Creek State Park (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Solar-powered Showers | Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Food Lockers
Dates Open: Year-round, though reservations are required May 15-Sept 28. First-come, first-served otherwise.
Prices: $35/night for campsite
Highlights: Beach, ocean, Fern Canyon, elk
Best Sites: We prefer those that are closer to the ocean on the outside of the loop (e.g. 7, 9, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19)
Notes: Reservations are accepted up to six months and no less than 48 hours in advance; otherwise first-come, first served. Check-in is 2pm, check-out is 12:00 pm. Most popular dates are mid-May to late-September.

Places

• Gold Bluffs Beach Campground | Davison Rd, Orick, CA 95555
• Elk Meadow Picnic Area | 41.3223801, -124.0427265
• Orick Market | 121175 US-101, Orick, CA 95555

Maps

• Gold Bluffs Beach Campground Map

Links

• Gold Bluffs Beach Campground Reservations
• Roosevelt Elk (NPS)

Interactive Map

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Towering redwood trees. That’s what you think of when you come to Redwood National & State Parks. Our first hike in the park though? It would feature no redwoods. Lyons Ranch, a National Historic Site, has an easy 4.5 mile loop trail and features wide open prairies, dramatic views, and historic structures. You can see more than just trees at Redwood N&SP.

Lyons Ranch Trail is in a remote section of the park called Bald Hills, near the park’s southeast border. It takes time to get there, but it’s worth it. Native American tribes like the Chilula, Hupa, and Yurok originally lived in the area. These tribes deliberately set fire to the surrounding oak woodlands to enhance the growth of acorns, berries, and grasses. The resulting wide-open prairies eventually welcomed settlers and their sheep ranches.

Jonathan Lyons was one of the first European-American settlers in the Bald Hills area. He and his wife, Amelia, who was of Hupa descent, started sheep ranching here in 1873. The land was ranched for three generations, until the 1960s when it was sold for its timber. Today, the area is still largely untouched with various historical buildings and structures remaining.

Crescent City, California

The day before we arrived in Redwood N&SP, we drove down the Pacific coast from Portland, Oregon to Crescent City, California. We could write a whole post about how awesome the Oregon coast was – but this is a blog about National Parks. So, we recommend you check it out yourself.

Once we entered Redwood N&SP, our first stop was Hiouchi Visitor Center, near Jedediah Smith Campground. Here, we signed up for a free kayaking trip that the park runs. Next, we drove south on highway 101, which traverses the northern half of the park. Construction backup and eerie fog slowed our trip down a bit. However, a few scenic overlooks with spectacular coastal views made the drive much more interesting.

Bald Hills Road

To get to the trailhead, we continued driving south on highway 101 and then turned onto Bald Hills Road. The road is a 2WD accessible road that runs on the east side of the federally managed Redwood National Park section of Redwood N&SP. Various trailheads like Tall Trees Grove and Dolason Prairie can also be accessed from Bald Hills Road. 17 miles from the start is the trailhead for Lyons Ranch.

After 6.7 miles, we stopped at an overlook of Redwood Creek. The overlook is a wide scenic view of Redwood Creek, where we backpacked later in our trip. It was cool to see it from higher up as we knew we’d be down there soon. We got back on the road, which turns from pavement to gravel. With the change comes gorgeous views of open prairies as the road winds its way through them.

The road is dusty and bumpy, but easy to drive on. As we drove we suddenly heard a loud roar and saw a giant logging truck coming toward us. We pulled over to the side as far as we could, as the truck raced past us. It’s dangerous, we really had to be careful and pull over as far as we could to let the truck go by. Be very cautious while driving this road!

Lyons Ranch Trailhead

We finally reached the trailhead after a long drive. It takes awhile to get here, so plan accordingly. Somewhat surprisingly – there weren’t any other cars in the parking lot. As we were gathering our gear, another car drove up and parked. Two people got out, snapped some photos of the views, and then hopped back in their car and left. Those were the only people that we’d see on the hike.

When deciding on which route to hike at Lyons Ranch, there are a few options. The main trail is Lyons Ranch Trail which is an out-and-back to the old Lyons barn and some other buildings. The Lyons Ranch area also has a series of intersecting old gravel roads. There’s a gate that prevents cars from getting on the road. We’d be making a reverse lollipop loop out of the trail and gravel roads.

To start, we went straight out of the gate, past the trailhead sign onto Lyons Ranch Trail. We were immediately greeted with dramatic vistas over prairies. In the distance are views of the rolling hills which makes for a nice dichotomy. It was sunny, warm, and clear – a great day for a hike.

Much of the trail is exposed to the sun, but after about 15 minutes we entered an area with oak woodland surrounding us. It’s a nice change, but soon we were back out on the prairie. A few simple signs that say “TRAIL” with an arrow guide us as we go, but the way is clear even without them. Growing alongside the trail are some pretty purple and pink wildflowers. If we were here in the spring or earlier in the summer, the area would be bursting with wildflowers!

“Home Place”

At 1.6 miles into the hike, we saw a large barn in the distance. The area around it is the “Home Place,” the former residence of the Lyons family. Other than the barn, only two small bunkhouses remain. We approached the barn and looked around. We weren’t aware and didn’t see any obvious entrances, so we didn’t go in, but we later found out that visitors can enter the barn.

Further past the barn are the bunkhouses, which we did go in and explore while being respectful of what was there. Mostly old tools, soda cans, clothing and other odds and ends. Further beyond the bunkhouses looked to be an old outhouse, but we weren’t sure. I’m glad these structures still exist for us to look at, as they gave us an idea of what life was like at the time.

Ranch Road

After taking a short break at a nearby picnic table, we headed back the way we came. Around 15 minutes later, we saw a fork in the road. To the left, Lyons Ranch Trail returns to the parking lot. To make this a loop hike, we headed right onto Ranch Road. There’s no signage, we just went by our map. But both roads are obvious, they’re not hidden. It’s the first intersection we encountered after turning around at the barn.

Ranch Road is a pleasant hike and features more shade and fewer views than Lyons Ranch Trail. Taking the road added about a mile of distance and 200 feet of elevation gain to our return route. It’s worth it for the views and historical buildings we saw.

We came upon a downed tree across the road. As we hopped over it, I wondered how much maintenance this trail gets. Soon, we saw another barn down the road. Except, it’s not technically a barn, it’s Long Ridge Sheep Shed. In the winter, sheep would be fed inside this building.

Approaching the shed, we took a quick peek inside, imagining how it was used. After satisfying our curiosity, we immediately turned left onto Long Ridge Road which leads back to the trailhead. Still no signage, but the route was easy to follow on our map.

Long Ridge Road

Long Ridge Road ascends sharply uphill, and this is the most strenuous part of the hike. As we hiked, we looked back and were greeted with great views of the shed and scenic landscape. Before long we looked to our left and could see Lyons Ranch Trail in the distance. We could see that the trail would meet up with Long Ridge Road soon. When it did, we arrived back at the parking lot.

This hike was a wonderful introduction to Redwood N&SP, even if it lacks redwood trees. As you hike this gravel road, you’ll be serenaded by birds and enjoy seasonal wildflowers. It’s pleasant and scenic with gorgeous prairie and mountain views. We recommend this trail, particularly since it’s so different from the rest of the park. And the hardest part about this hike is getting there.

Lyons Ranch Trail

Date Visited: July 17, 2017
Type: Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 4.5 miles (7.2 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 880 feet (268 m)
Time: 2.5 hours hiking which includes photography breaks
Trail Markings: None besides a few simple wooden signs that said “TRAIL” with an arrow, but it’s easy to follow
Difficulty: Easy
Crowds: None
Water: None
Highlights: Views, history, wildlife
Note: Watch out for logging trucks on Bald Hills Road!
Directions to Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – Head straight, past the gate onto the road/trail ahead onto Lyons Ranch Trail.
• Mile 1.7 – You’ve arrived at the “Home Place.” A barn and two bunkhouses remain. Explore, then head back the way you came.
• Mile 2.3 – The trail forks here. To the left is Lyons Ranch Trail, where you came from. Take the right fork towards Ranch Road.
• Mile 3.7 – At the intersection of Ranch Road and Long View Road is Long View Sheep Shed. Go left onto Long View Road; Ranch Road continues to the right.
• Mile 4.1 – There is a faint road to the right here called High Prairie Road, but continue straight on Long View Road.
• Mile 4.5 – You’ve arrived back at the parking lot.

Places

• Lighthouse Inn | 681 Highway 101 South, Crescent City, CA 95531
• Hiouchi Visitor Center | 1600 US-199, Crescent City, CA 95531
• DeMartin Picnic Area | 41.6034896, -124.1011377
• Lagoon Creek Picnic Area | 41.5936743, -124.1009537
• Redwood Creek Overlook | 41.2580432, -123.9981322
• Lyons Ranch Parking Area | 41.1474986,-123.8963249
• Lyons Ranch Barn | 41.136546, -123.913175
• Long Ridge Sheep Shed | 41.138709, -123.889121

Maps

• Lyons Ranch Trail Map (KTNP)

Links

• Lyons Ranch Historical Place Article (NPS)
• Bald Hills Visitor Guide (NPS)
• Lyons Ranch Cultural Landscapes Inventory, 2004 (NPS)
• Del Norte Triplicate Article About Lyons Family

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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