We were excited for our first hike in Glacier National Park. Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Trail promised a forested boardwalk trail, a stunning gorge, and a glacial lake nestled at the foot of majestic mountains. We hoped it would give us a taste of what Glacier National Park is all about.

To get to Avalanche Lake Trail, you first have to hike Trail of the Cedars, a path through cedar, hemlock, and the cottonwood trees which is primarily on a boardwalk. Combining the two trails forms a 5.9 mile reverse lollipop loop. This sylvan path takes you to Avalanche Gorge, where Avalanche Creek flows through a twisted narrow canyon. Avalanche Lake, a picturesque body of water with towering mountains beyond, is located at the terminus (ish) of the trail. The lake was named in 1895 because a group exploring the area saw and heard many avalanches during their stay.

Hiking is a popular activity in Glacier National Park, so you have to get to the trailhead early to secure a parking spot. Trail of the Cedars is only about a 30 minute drive from Fish Creek Campground, where we were staying, so it seemed like a good bet. Thankfully, there were still spaces left when we arrived in the parking lot around 8:30 a.m. However, visitation has increased in recent years, so you have to arrive even earlier to ensure you get a spot (potentially as early as 6:30 a.m.). A timed-entry system has also been implemented, but the park remains crowded.

We took about 15 minutes to put on sunscreen and get our gear ready. By the time we got started, there were no visible parking spaces left. Coming from the west, there are three parking lots in order: Avalanche Lake Picnic Area (on left), Avalanche Campground (a small lot on the right), and Trail of the Cedars Parking (on the right after crossing Avalanche Creek). Some visitors only do Trail of the Cedars, which is rather short, so you can circle the lot until a space opens up. The park shuttle is another great option, and there is a transfer stop next to the trailhead.

Trail of the Cedars

We walked across Going to the Sun Road, then crossed Avalanche Creek. Trail of the Cedars is a loop – one side starts north of Avalanche Creek, the other to the south. We decided on a whim to start from the north and go clockwise, but either would work. Avalanche Lake Trail intersects Trail of the Cedars around the halfway point.

We started our hike on a boardwalk on Trail of the Cedars, and a good portion of the loop is a boardwalk. Travis loves boardwalks, so he was really in his element. It feels like you’re traveling through a swamp or bog, someplace you wouldn’t normally be able to walk without damaging the terrain or flora.

The trail is wheelchair accessible, easy terrain with a gentle slope up toward the intersection with Avalanche Lake Trail. Trail of the Cedars was one of the first accessible trails completed by the NPS. Originally, other parts of the trail were constructed using gravel and pavement, which deteriorated over time. In 2015, this portion of the trail was reconstructed using sustainable non-asphalt polymer surface.

As we made our way through the dense forest, there was a steady stream of people on the trail, but it still seemed quiet and peaceful. Some trees were marked with signs describing the species, which I always appreciate. Other signs sported an illustration and poem. It took us a few signs to realize that they were all haikus! Honestly, poetry and hiking trails go really well together.

In the quiet night
ambush on the forest floor
the predator dines

Haiku from a sign along Trail of the Cedars

After 0.4 miles, we reached the popular Avalanche Gorge, which Avalanche Creek traverses. The gorge is so beautiful it’s almost indescribable, and you can see why it’s so popular. The translucent bright blue water (which neither words nor photographs can accurately convey) cascades through a narrow canyon. When rocks grind together underneath a glacier, the resulting sediment powder gets suspended in the water. This sediment absorbs and scatters sunlight, creating the distinctive milky blue hue.

Avalanche Lake Trail

Almost immediately after crossing the gorge, we turned left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. The trail ascends slightly as it follows the gorge further upstream. The trail has a steady ascent of over 500 feet for 1.7 miles, and flattens out as you approach Avalanche Lake. More waterfalls appear as you ascend above the creek and past Avalanche Gorge. We took our time exploring and snapping photos before continuing past the gorge. Travis experimented with some long exposures, but he wasn’t happy with the results since he had forgotten his tripod.

The trail follows Avalanche Creek through the woods, then opens to views of the mountains. It’s our first glimpse that truly showcased the glacial valleys and peaks of Glacier National Park. The wooded trail is peaceful and beautiful, but we really felt like we were in Glacier when we saw the mountains.

Shortly before reaching the lake, we passed a short side trail on the right to two outhouses. Several of the longer trails in Glacier have outhouses along the way, which says a lot about the popularity of the park. In crowded parks like Glacier, they are essential for keeping the area clean.

Avalanche Lake

As we arrived at Avalanche Lake, we noticed lots of people milling around along the shoreline. There had been a guided hike earlier in the day, and a park ranger was there answering questions. Even with the crowd, everyone seemed to be respectful and took turns taking photos with the lake and mountain backdrop.

Nestled in a valley, Avalanche Lake has a beautiful light green hue. The logs scattered in the lake are a distinctive feature when compared to other lakes we visited. Unfortunately the sky was fairly hazy, and the lighting wasn’t the best, but we still enjoyed ourselves (how could we not?). Small rodents ran around (don’t feed them!), and we saw some interesting birds.

While most hikers stop once they reach Avalanche Lake, the trail continues to the far side of the lake. So of course, we had to explore a bit more. We were able to get relative solitude in the forested areas as we continued our hike around the lake. Occasional side trails provide beach access. The lake gets deeper toward the south side, and it takes on more of a turquoise color which I think is even more beautiful than the greenish hue in the shallow end.

As we continued on the trail, we heard something coming toward us. Another hiker? Bear? No! A deer was using the trail and coming right toward us. We stopped, and thought about backtracking to a side trail, but there wasn’t one nearby. As it approached us, the deer darted into the woods toward the lake, went around us, jumped back on the trail, and kept going. Problem solved.

At the end of the established trail is a sign, literally saying “End of Trail.” However there’s a clear social trail that continues beyond. We followed it to a beach on the south side of the lake. About a half dozen other people were also enjoying the less populated side of the lake. The view was just as impressive from this side, if not more so. Besides people, there were also a few deer poking around.

We sat down to a packed lunch at the sandy beach. Small streams flowed into the lake, and wildflowers dotted the landscape behind us. It was peaceful and quiet. Another visitor fished (Yellowstone cutthroat trout are native to the lake), and hikers passed by periodically. We spent a good while just relaxing and enjoying the scenery before retracing our steps along the shoreline and back down the trail.

Back to Trail of the Cedars

Above Avalanche Gorge, a sign warns visitors to stay on the trail, as drowning is the top cause of death in the park. We’ve heard of numerous drowning accidents over the years. Two deaths occurred during our trip – and drowning was the cause of one. The rivers and creeks are fast flowing, and can be very cold. So for your own safety, always stay on the trail, and avoid hiking solo if possible.

Travis’s leg was bothering him, so we stopped to rest for a bit, and then slowed down our pace. We made it back to the intersection with Trail of the Cedars. On the way, we took another look at Avalanche Gorge – and found that the harsh afternoon lighting made the area appear washed out. If you want to see Avalanche Gorge, I recommend visiting in the morning for more vibrant hues. However, the lake and mountains were more well-lit in the afternoon light, so hiking up in the morning and back in the afternoon is a good bet.

We then continued clockwise on Trail of the Cedars. Again it was a short and peaceful hike through the woods, but there are fewer boardwalks in this section. We passed a restroom and the Avalanche Campground Amphitheater before returning to our car.

Overall, we both really enjoyed this hike. Travis loved the boardwalk and Avalanche Gorge, and my favorite part was exploring (and just relaxing by) Avalanche Lake. It took us six and a half hours at a super leisurely pace. For a “normal” leisurely pace, we could probably hike it in four and half hours or so. It made for a great first hike in Glacier National Park!

Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop

Date: Sunday, July 21, 2019
Type: Dayhike Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 5.9 miles (9.5 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 735 feet (224 m)
Time: 6.5 hours
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: High
Water: Creeks and lakes
Highlights: Views, wildlife, gorge, water features, boardwalk
Directions to Trailhead: Trail of the Cedars Trailhead
Notes: You can go either way on the Trail of the Cedars Loop

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Trail of the Cedars Trailhead, on the northern side of Avalanche Creek, head clockwise on the trail. It will lead to a boardwalk through cedar, hemlock, and cottonwood forest.
• 0.4 mi – Cross Avalanche Creek. Avalanche Gorge is on your left. About 100 feet further down the trail, turn left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. After another 100 feet, turn left to stay on Avalanche Lake Trail at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail. This section will then ascend over 500 feet to the lake.
• 2.3 mi – You’ve arrived at the northern end (the foot) of Avalanche Lake, where water flows out. Stop to enjoy the beach as well as the lake and mountain views. Two outhouses are located nearby.
• 2.9 mi – The official trail ends, and a social trail continues. A few minutes’ walk takes you to the southern end of the lake (the head), where water flows into the lake. Another small beach is located here as well. Turn around when you want to head back.
• 5.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail to continue on Avalanche Lake Trail. Go 100 feet, then turn left onto Trail of the Cedars. This is the second half of the loop. You’ll pass a restroom and amphitheater along the way.
• 5.9 mi – Back at the trailhead

Maps

• Trail of Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Lake McDonald Valley Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Avalanche Lake Trail (NPS)
• Trail of the Cedars (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Glacier National Park was on our bucket list, and we were both super excited to visit. Due to the popularity of the park, we had to plan a full year in advance. It can be difficult to secure campgrounds, hotels, and backcountry permits, so planning ahead is essential.

Our trip would begin on the west side of the park, and gradually head east over our three-week trip. We planned to spend our first two nights at Fish Creek Campground in Glacier’s Lake McDonald district.

Fish Creek is a large campground with 178 sites, which makes reserving a site a bit easier compared to other campgrounds in the park (like the popular and centrally located Many Glacier Campground). Most sites are released over a six-month rolling basis, except for a few sites, which have a 4-day window. The day we booked, we managed to get the site we wanted (C110) near Lake McDonald.

The campground has four loops – A, B, C, and D. Each loop is a bit different. We chose C loop for its access to Lake McDonald, fairly private sites, and because generators are prohibited. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites seemed less private, particularly on the inner loop. Loops A and B are farther from the lake and have less tree cover. Loop A has the only showers in the entire campground, though you could easily drive over to them. Loop B has more RV spots than other loops, so we avoided that.

Important Note: Grizzly and black bears frequent the area. Bear boxes are available near the restrooms; otherwise keep all food and scented items in your car for your safety and that of wildlife. Park rangers do patrol the area and issue fines for noncompliance.

Arriving at Fish Creek Campground

We flew into Kalispell, then picked up our rental car and supplies before heading into the park. Speaking of which, don’t forget to buy or rent bear spray – we bought ours from a nearby REI. From Kalispell it was around a one hour drive to the campground. On the way, we stopped at the Apgar Backcountry Office to confirm some of our upcoming backpacking permits.

Afterwards, we drove the short distance to Fish Creek Campground and checked in. Our site, C110, is a pull through to a cozy setup with a picnic table and fire ring. A water pump is located close by, and a short path leads to Lake McDonald. Our campsite had plenty of tree cover and it was nice and quiet – we liked it already!

Once we set up our tent, we walked over to Lake McDonald. There were plenty of multicolored rocks on the lakebed, visible through the clear pure water. Nearby, some kids were playing in the lake, but it still seemed so calm and peaceful. It’s the kind of place you could read a book, or simply relax and enjoy the view.

It was dinner time, and we had decided not to cook at our campsite (we were lazy). We drove 6 minutes into the nearby park town of Apgar, and got dinner at Eddie’s Cafe & Mercantile. It was the worst restaurant experience we’ve had in any national park. Our food took forever to arrive, the orders were wrong, and the food just wasn’t good. The attached ice cream shop was decent though, and they had some vegan sorbet options for Kristin. Since we visited, Eddie’s has changed concessionaires and undergone a significant renovation in 2022. It’s larger, and looks more like a traditional lodge. So take our experience with a grain of salt.

After dinner, we walked over to Lake McDonald and enjoyed the view and ambiance. With the gentle waves lapping the lakeshore, and stunning multicolored rocks in Lake McDonald, it was a beautiful spot to relax and eat our ice cream. The area looked even more beautiful in the early evening light. It was so simple, and yet a memorable first night.

The campground was relatively quiet when we returned later that evening, which we appreciated. The air had gotten cooler, but it wasn’t yet “cold.” Even though it was only 9:30 p.m. and still light out, we passed out in our tent. We awoke overnight to the sound of bugling. Probably an elk near the lake, but we didn’t get up to check.

The next day we got up early to hike the nearby Avalanche Lake Trail. Afterward, we drove into Columbia Falls for dinner before returning to camp – again, not worrying about cooking at the campsite. Then we went by the lake and relaxed, took photos, and just enjoyed the campground. We dipped our feet into the lake, which was freezing cold. There’s also an amphitheater at Loop A where the park service holds ranger talks. We had wanted to attend one, but didn’t find the time. But we did stop by for a quick visit, and also check out the only showers in the campground.

Two nights was a short stay at Fish Creek. It’s a great campground, we recommend it and wished we had stayed longer – but we had more places to see in Glacier. Next we’d be heading east, over Logan Pass, all the way to Many Glacier.

Fish Creek Campground | 178 Campsites

Dates Visited: Saturday July 20, 2019 – Monday July 22, 2019
Location: 12 miles from the park’s West Glacier entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling
Dates Open: Mid-May to early September
Prices: $30/night for individual tent campsite
Reservations: 100% of sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. Otherwise, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Access to Lake McDonald, Tree Cover
Best Sites: Loop C due to privacy and Lake McDonald access. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites are not as private. Loops A and B are further from the lake and have less tree cover.
Notes: There are four tent only sites: C120, C121, C122, and D166. Two sites are not suitable for tents: C139 and C143. Generators are prohibited in Loop C. Four sites are hiker/biker only: A11a, A11b, A11c, and A11d.

Places

• Fish Creek Campground | Fish Creek Campground Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936
• Eddie’s Mercantile and Cafe | Apgar Village, 236 Apgar Lp Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936

Maps

• Fish Creek Campground Map (Wikipedia, may be outdated)

Links

• Glacier Campgrounds (NPS)
• Fish Creek Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)

Interactive Map

The post Fish Creek Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.