We were excited for our first hike in Glacier National Park. Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Trail promised a forested boardwalk trail, a stunning gorge, and a glacial lake nestled at the foot of majestic mountains. We hoped it would give us a taste of what Glacier National Park is all about.

To get to Avalanche Lake Trail, you first have to hike Trail of the Cedars, a path through cedar, hemlock, and the cottonwood trees which is primarily on a boardwalk. Combining the two trails forms a 5.9 mile reverse lollipop loop. This sylvan path takes you to Avalanche Gorge, where Avalanche Creek flows through a twisted narrow canyon. Avalanche Lake, a picturesque body of water with towering mountains beyond, is located at the terminus (ish) of the trail. The lake was named in 1895 because a group exploring the area saw and heard many avalanches during their stay.

Hiking is a popular activity in Glacier National Park, so you have to get to the trailhead early to secure a parking spot. Trail of the Cedars is only about a 30 minute drive from Fish Creek Campground, where we were staying, so it seemed like a good bet. Thankfully, there were still spaces left when we arrived in the parking lot around 8:30 a.m. However, visitation has increased in recent years, so you have to arrive even earlier to ensure you get a spot (potentially as early as 6:30 a.m.). A timed-entry system has also been implemented, but the park remains crowded.

We took about 15 minutes to put on sunscreen and get our gear ready. By the time we got started, there were no visible parking spaces left. Coming from the west, there are three parking lots in order: Avalanche Lake Picnic Area (on left), Avalanche Campground (a small lot on the right), and Trail of the Cedars Parking (on the right after crossing Avalanche Creek). Some visitors only do Trail of the Cedars, which is rather short, so you can circle the lot until a space opens up. The park shuttle is another great option, and there is a transfer stop next to the trailhead.

Trail of the Cedars

We walked across Going to the Sun Road, then crossed Avalanche Creek. Trail of the Cedars is a loop – one side starts north of Avalanche Creek, the other to the south. We decided on a whim to start from the north and go clockwise, but either would work. Avalanche Lake Trail intersects Trail of the Cedars around the halfway point.

We started our hike on a boardwalk on Trail of the Cedars, and a good portion of the loop is a boardwalk. Travis loves boardwalks, so he was really in his element. It feels like you’re traveling through a swamp or bog, someplace you wouldn’t normally be able to walk without damaging the terrain or flora.

The trail is wheelchair accessible, easy terrain with a gentle slope up toward the intersection with Avalanche Lake Trail. Trail of the Cedars was one of the first accessible trails completed by the NPS. Originally, other parts of the trail were constructed using gravel and pavement, which deteriorated over time. In 2015, this portion of the trail was reconstructed using sustainable non-asphalt polymer surface.

As we made our way through the dense forest, there was a steady stream of people on the trail, but it still seemed quiet and peaceful. Some trees were marked with signs describing the species, which I always appreciate. Other signs sported an illustration and poem. It took us a few signs to realize that they were all haikus! Honestly, poetry and hiking trails go really well together.

In the quiet night
ambush on the forest floor
the predator dines

Haiku from a sign along Trail of the Cedars

After 0.4 miles, we reached the popular Avalanche Gorge, which Avalanche Creek traverses. The gorge is so beautiful it’s almost indescribable, and you can see why it’s so popular. The translucent bright blue water (which neither words nor photographs can accurately convey) cascades through a narrow canyon. When rocks grind together underneath a glacier, the resulting sediment powder gets suspended in the water. This sediment absorbs and scatters sunlight, creating the distinctive milky blue hue.

Avalanche Lake Trail

Almost immediately after crossing the gorge, we turned left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. The trail ascends slightly as it follows the gorge further upstream. The trail has a steady ascent of over 500 feet for 1.7 miles, and flattens out as you approach Avalanche Lake. More waterfalls appear as you ascend above the creek and past Avalanche Gorge. We took our time exploring and snapping photos before continuing past the gorge. Travis experimented with some long exposures, but he wasn’t happy with the results since he had forgotten his tripod.

The trail follows Avalanche Creek through the woods, then opens to views of the mountains. It’s our first glimpse that truly showcased the glacial valleys and peaks of Glacier National Park. The wooded trail is peaceful and beautiful, but we really felt like we were in Glacier when we saw the mountains.

Shortly before reaching the lake, we passed a short side trail on the right to two outhouses. Several of the longer trails in Glacier have outhouses along the way, which says a lot about the popularity of the park. In crowded parks like Glacier, they are essential for keeping the area clean.

Avalanche Lake

As we arrived at Avalanche Lake, we noticed lots of people milling around along the shoreline. There had been a guided hike earlier in the day, and a park ranger was there answering questions. Even with the crowd, everyone seemed to be respectful and took turns taking photos with the lake and mountain backdrop.

Nestled in a valley, Avalanche Lake has a beautiful light green hue. The logs scattered in the lake are a distinctive feature when compared to other lakes we visited. Unfortunately the sky was fairly hazy, and the lighting wasn’t the best, but we still enjoyed ourselves (how could we not?). Small rodents ran around (don’t feed them!), and we saw some interesting birds.

While most hikers stop once they reach Avalanche Lake, the trail continues to the far side of the lake. So of course, we had to explore a bit more. We were able to get relative solitude in the forested areas as we continued our hike around the lake. Occasional side trails provide beach access. The lake gets deeper toward the south side, and it takes on more of a turquoise color which I think is even more beautiful than the greenish hue in the shallow end.

As we continued on the trail, we heard something coming toward us. Another hiker? Bear? No! A deer was using the trail and coming right toward us. We stopped, and thought about backtracking to a side trail, but there wasn’t one nearby. As it approached us, the deer darted into the woods toward the lake, went around us, jumped back on the trail, and kept going. Problem solved.

At the end of the established trail is a sign, literally saying “End of Trail.” However there’s a clear social trail that continues beyond. We followed it to a beach on the south side of the lake. About a half dozen other people were also enjoying the less populated side of the lake. The view was just as impressive from this side, if not more so. Besides people, there were also a few deer poking around.

We sat down to a packed lunch at the sandy beach. Small streams flowed into the lake, and wildflowers dotted the landscape behind us. It was peaceful and quiet. Another visitor fished (Yellowstone cutthroat trout are native to the lake), and hikers passed by periodically. We spent a good while just relaxing and enjoying the scenery before retracing our steps along the shoreline and back down the trail.

Back to Trail of the Cedars

Above Avalanche Gorge, a sign warns visitors to stay on the trail, as drowning is the top cause of death in the park. We’ve heard of numerous drowning accidents over the years. Two deaths occurred during our trip – and drowning was the cause of one. The rivers and creeks are fast flowing, and can be very cold. So for your own safety, always stay on the trail, and avoid hiking solo if possible.

Travis’s leg was bothering him, so we stopped to rest for a bit, and then slowed down our pace. We made it back to the intersection with Trail of the Cedars. On the way, we took another look at Avalanche Gorge – and found that the harsh afternoon lighting made the area appear washed out. If you want to see Avalanche Gorge, I recommend visiting in the morning for more vibrant hues. However, the lake and mountains were more well-lit in the afternoon light, so hiking up in the morning and back in the afternoon is a good bet.

We then continued clockwise on Trail of the Cedars. Again it was a short and peaceful hike through the woods, but there are fewer boardwalks in this section. We passed a restroom and the Avalanche Campground Amphitheater before returning to our car.

Overall, we both really enjoyed this hike. Travis loved the boardwalk and Avalanche Gorge, and my favorite part was exploring (and just relaxing by) Avalanche Lake. It took us six and a half hours at a super leisurely pace. For a “normal” leisurely pace, we could probably hike it in four and half hours or so. It made for a great first hike in Glacier National Park!

Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop

Date: Sunday, July 21, 2019
Type: Dayhike Reverse Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 5.9 miles (9.5 km)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 735 feet (224 m)
Time: 6.5 hours
Trail Markings: Intersection signs
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: High
Water: Creeks and lakes
Highlights: Views, wildlife, gorge, water features, boardwalk
Directions to Trailhead: Trail of the Cedars Trailhead
Notes: You can go either way on the Trail of the Cedars Loop

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Trail of the Cedars Trailhead, on the northern side of Avalanche Creek, head clockwise on the trail. It will lead to a boardwalk through cedar, hemlock, and cottonwood forest.
• 0.4 mi – Cross Avalanche Creek. Avalanche Gorge is on your left. About 100 feet further down the trail, turn left onto Avalanche Lake Trail. After another 100 feet, turn left to stay on Avalanche Lake Trail at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail. This section will then ascend over 500 feet to the lake.
• 2.3 mi – You’ve arrived at the northern end (the foot) of Avalanche Lake, where water flows out. Stop to enjoy the beach as well as the lake and mountain views. Two outhouses are located nearby.
• 2.9 mi – The official trail ends, and a social trail continues. A few minutes’ walk takes you to the southern end of the lake (the head), where water flows into the lake. Another small beach is located here as well. Turn around when you want to head back.
• 5.5 mi – Turn right at the intersection with Avalanche Campground Trail to continue on Avalanche Lake Trail. Go 100 feet, then turn left onto Trail of the Cedars. This is the second half of the loop. You’ll pass a restroom and amphitheater along the way.
• 5.9 mi – Back at the trailhead

Maps

• Trail of Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Lake McDonald Valley Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Avalanche Lake Trail (NPS)
• Trail of the Cedars (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Trail of the Cedars and Avalanche Lake Loop appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Glacier National Park was on our bucket list, and we were both super excited to visit. Due to the popularity of the park, we had to plan a full year in advance. It can be difficult to secure campgrounds, hotels, and backcountry permits, so planning ahead is essential.

Our trip would begin on the west side of the park, and gradually head east over our three-week trip. We planned to spend our first two nights at Fish Creek Campground in Glacier’s Lake McDonald district.

Fish Creek is a large campground with 178 sites, which makes reserving a site a bit easier compared to other campgrounds in the park (like the popular and centrally located Many Glacier Campground). Most sites are released over a six-month rolling basis, except for a few sites, which have a 4-day window. The day we booked, we managed to get the site we wanted (C110) near Lake McDonald.

The campground has four loops – A, B, C, and D. Each loop is a bit different. We chose C loop for its access to Lake McDonald, fairly private sites, and because generators are prohibited. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites seemed less private, particularly on the inner loop. Loops A and B are farther from the lake and have less tree cover. Loop A has the only showers in the entire campground, though you could easily drive over to them. Loop B has more RV spots than other loops, so we avoided that.

Important Note: Grizzly and black bears frequent the area. Bear boxes are available near the restrooms; otherwise keep all food and scented items in your car for your safety and that of wildlife. Park rangers do patrol the area and issue fines for noncompliance.

Arriving at Fish Creek Campground

We flew into Kalispell, then picked up our rental car and supplies before heading into the park. Speaking of which, don’t forget to buy or rent bear spray – we bought ours from a nearby REI. From Kalispell it was around a one hour drive to the campground. On the way, we stopped at the Apgar Backcountry Office to confirm some of our upcoming backpacking permits.

Afterwards, we drove the short distance to Fish Creek Campground and checked in. Our site, C110, is a pull through to a cozy setup with a picnic table and fire ring. A water pump is located close by, and a short path leads to Lake McDonald. Our campsite had plenty of tree cover and it was nice and quiet – we liked it already!

Once we set up our tent, we walked over to Lake McDonald. There were plenty of multicolored rocks on the lakebed, visible through the clear pure water. Nearby, some kids were playing in the lake, but it still seemed so calm and peaceful. It’s the kind of place you could read a book, or simply relax and enjoy the view.

It was dinner time, and we had decided not to cook at our campsite (we were lazy). We drove 6 minutes into the nearby park town of Apgar, and got dinner at Eddie’s Cafe & Mercantile. It was the worst restaurant experience we’ve had in any national park. Our food took forever to arrive, the orders were wrong, and the food just wasn’t good. The attached ice cream shop was decent though, and they had some vegan sorbet options for Kristin. Since we visited, Eddie’s has changed concessionaires and undergone a significant renovation in 2022. It’s larger, and looks more like a traditional lodge. So take our experience with a grain of salt.

After dinner, we walked over to Lake McDonald and enjoyed the view and ambiance. With the gentle waves lapping the lakeshore, and stunning multicolored rocks in Lake McDonald, it was a beautiful spot to relax and eat our ice cream. The area looked even more beautiful in the early evening light. It was so simple, and yet a memorable first night.

The campground was relatively quiet when we returned later that evening, which we appreciated. The air had gotten cooler, but it wasn’t yet “cold.” Even though it was only 9:30 p.m. and still light out, we passed out in our tent. We awoke overnight to the sound of bugling. Probably an elk near the lake, but we didn’t get up to check.

The next day we got up early to hike the nearby Avalanche Lake Trail. Afterward, we drove into Columbia Falls for dinner before returning to camp – again, not worrying about cooking at the campsite. Then we went by the lake and relaxed, took photos, and just enjoyed the campground. We dipped our feet into the lake, which was freezing cold. There’s also an amphitheater at Loop A where the park service holds ranger talks. We had wanted to attend one, but didn’t find the time. But we did stop by for a quick visit, and also check out the only showers in the campground.

Two nights was a short stay at Fish Creek. It’s a great campground, we recommend it and wished we had stayed longer – but we had more places to see in Glacier. Next we’d be heading east, over Logan Pass, all the way to Many Glacier.

Fish Creek Campground | 178 Campsites

Dates Visited: Saturday July 20, 2019 – Monday July 22, 2019
Location: 12 miles from the park’s West Glacier entrance (Google Maps Directions)
Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits & Barbecues | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Amphitheater | Trash and Recycling
Dates Open: Mid-May to early September
Prices: $30/night for individual tent campsite
Reservations: 100% of sites can be reserved up to 6 months in advance for visits between March 1 and October 31. Otherwise, all sites are first-come, first-served.
Highlights: Access to Lake McDonald, Tree Cover
Best Sites: Loop C due to privacy and Lake McDonald access. Loop D also has lake access, but the sites are not as private. Loops A and B are further from the lake and have less tree cover.
Notes: There are four tent only sites: C120, C121, C122, and D166. Two sites are not suitable for tents: C139 and C143. Generators are prohibited in Loop C. Four sites are hiker/biker only: A11a, A11b, A11c, and A11d.

Places

• Fish Creek Campground | Fish Creek Campground Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936
• Eddie’s Mercantile and Cafe | Apgar Village, 236 Apgar Lp Rd, West Glacier, MT 59936

Maps

• Fish Creek Campground Map (Wikipedia, may be outdated)

Links

• Glacier Campgrounds (NPS)
• Fish Creek Campground Reservations (Recreation.gov)

Interactive Map

The post Fish Creek Campground appeared first on KTNPBlog.

When we decided to visit Japan, I knew we had to go to Miyajima (宮島). Officially known as Itsukushima (厳島), Miyajima is a small island off the coast of Hiroshima. The island, along with thousands of other islands in the Seto Inland Sea, is part of Setonaikai National Park (瀬戸内海国立公園, Setonaikai Kokuritsu Kōen).

Miyajima, which means “shrine island,” boasts a unique feature: a fifty-foot tall torii gate that appears to float on the water at high tide. At low tide, visitors can walk out to the gate. There’s lots more to see and do, including visiting the highest point on the island – Mount Misen (弥山, Misen).

Mt. Misen stands at 535 meters tall. Three main hiking trails, as well as a ropeway, lead visitors to its peak. We intended to hike up the mountain, but the heat got the better of us and we decided to take the ropeway up. On the way down we would hike through Mount Misen Primeval Forest, a protected area located on the northern side of the mountain.

My parents are big fans of Japanese woodblock art (ukiyo-e), and they took me to museums to see them as a kid. They instilled a love of art in me, and I bought a few prints as an adult. The first one I bought was called “Moonlit Night at Miyajima” by Kawase Hasui, which depicts a nighttime view of the beautiful Itsukushima Shrine, surrounded by water. So we were beyond excited to experience the shrine in person.

To Miyajima

We spent two nights on Miyajima, but only one full day. We really enjoyed the island and wished we had more time there. The previous day, we had completed the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route and spent the night in Matsumoto. We then took the shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima, where we explored for an afternoon.

That evening, we had dinner with a family friend who lives in Hiroshima. Around 9:00 pm, we finally made our way to Miyajima via a ferry. It only took ten minutes, and we were the only passengers on board (aside from our family friend who insisted on accompanying us). Once we docked at the island, we walked about three minutes to Sakuraya, our hotel. It’s an affordable cozy spot with Japanese style rooms in a great location.

Itsukushima Shrine

The following morning, we headed out around 9:00 a.m. Immediately, we spotted some of Miyajima’s most popular residents: wild Sitka deer. They’re cute, relatively tame, and can be found all over the island. Watch out for them, as they will try to grab food or other items, we’re told. It’s illegal to feed the deer…so don’t do that. In the Shinto religion, Sitka deer are considered to be messengers of gods and are protected by law.

We headed straight toward Itsukushima Shrine. Along the way, we walked down Omotesando Street, where vendors sell food and souvenirs. Most vendors weren’t open yet, but we managed to find a few that were, and grabbed some snacks for breakfast. We made sure to buy some delicious Momiji manjū, a cake with various fillings that is considered a specialty on the island. Kristin was even able to find some that were dairy-free.

Omotesando Street curved to reveal our first glimpse of the Itsukushima torii gate as we walked. At high tide, the torii gate appeared to float, and its rusty orange color was striking in contrast with the blue water. The gate truly is a stunning and unique landmark.

Along the way, we stopped to take photos of the torii gate from various angles. I was glad to finally visit in person after seeing it represented in artwork throughout the years. We planned to return later in the day, during low tide, to get closer to the torii gate. Before our trip, we downloaded a tide timing app so we wouldn’t miss anything.

Next, we went to check out another popular tourist attraction on the island. After waiting in a long line and paying 300 yen apiece, we entered the Itsukushima Shrine complex. It has the same striking vermillion color as the torii gate, and is built over the water. It was crowded with tourists as we walked through.

Near the center of the shrine, we got our goshuin stamped, then walked out onto a platform with a view of the torii gate. Tons of people were waiting to get their photo with the torii gate beyond. So, we jumped on the bandwagon and got our picture too, before exiting the shrine to the east. We planned to stop by in the evening to get yet another view of the torii gate. Thinking about all the shrines we visited in Japan, this is one of the most impressive.

Ascending Mount Misen

At this point in the day, the temperature was quickly approaching scorching hot. It was around 90 °F, and with the humidity between 60% and 80%…it felt like more than 100 °F. Thankfully, the area was designed with streams that flow through constructed channels, so we dipped our feet in to cool off. We also got gelato at Baccano, which helped. Despite the heat, we were ready to ascend Mount Misen.

The history of Mt. Misen is connected with Kobo Daishi (774 – 835), a famous Buddhist monk who created the Shingon sect. In 806, he founded a temple called Daisho-in at the base of Mt. Misen. There are Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen, all legendary events said to have happened to Kobo Daishi. We saw two of the wonders while on Mt. Misen; many of the others are inaccessible or no longer exist.

There are three hiking routes to climb Mt. Misen: the Momijidani, Daisho-in, and the Omoto Course. Each course is a bit different. We originally thought we’d take the Momijidani Course up and the Daisho-in Course down. But we started to rethink our options due to the heat.

There is a fourth option to get to the top: The Miyajima Ropeway. We decided to ascend Mount Misen using this option and descend via the Daisho-in course. Daisho-in Temple is located near the exit of the Daisho-in course, and we wanted to visit that as well. After exiting the ropeway, the route to the summit and then down to Daisho-in is roughly 3.5 km (2.2 mi).

It was about a 20 minute walk from our hotel to Miyajima Ropeway. This route would take us through Momijidani Park, which is famous for its maple trees. We planned to walk, but when the free shuttle came by, we decided to take it. It was hot, enough said.

We arrived at the ropeway, bought our tickets, and got into a car with a friendly Japanese couple who spoke a bit of English. The views were decent as we went up the first section of ropeway, and before we knew it, we arrived at Kayadani Station. The second ropeway section had even better views, with a gorgeous look southeast of the Seto Sea.

Mount Misen Summit

Eventually, we arrived at Shishiiwa Station, the final stop on the ropeway. But we weren’t at the summit yet. From the ropeway it’s a 1.0 km (0.6 mi) hike to the top, which takes about 30 minutes via the Momijidani Route.

The trail wasn’t too hard, and we had nice views of the Seto Sea. In about 15 minutes, we came to a flat area with a couple of buildings: Misen Hondo (Misen Main Hall) and Reikado (Hall of the Spiritual Flame). We started in Reikado, where a fire lit in 806 by Kobo Daishi has been burning for over 1,200 years. The fire from this temple was used to light the fire at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. It’s considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen.

Next we did a quick look into the nearby temple, Misen Hondo, then continued to ascend up to the summit. We passed by additional buildings: Sankido, Monjudo, and Kannondo Halls. All are places of worship, dedicated to a variety of deities.

It was a short walk to the top, and we weaved around and below some boulders before arriving. We had to duck to pass under Kuguriiwa, or Passage Rock. Finally, we arrived at the summit. Inside the observatory, we enjoyed the shade and a 360 degree view of the Seto Inland Sea and Hiroshima Bay. There’s also a small gift shop at the bottom of the building.

Descending Mount Misen and Daishoin Temple

Around 3:30 pm, we decided to head down. We wanted to check out Daisho-in Temple, but it closes at 5:00 pm, so we were going to be tight on time. The trail continues down the other side of the mountain and leads to the other two routes, Daisho-in and the Omoto Course. Near the top, we passed another of the Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen – Kanmaniwa known as the “ebb-and-flow rock.” The rock has a hole with saltwater that rises and lowers with the tide. We didn’t stick around long enough to see the phenomenon though.

After the Kanmaniwa rock we passed Dainichido Hall, but we didn’t have time to explore further. We descended multiple flights of stairs, and turned right to continue down the mountain. I was glad we had decided to hike down rather than up, because I was sweating buckets and it was nearly a hundred degrees.

As we passed a small shrine along the trail, we heard buzzing. Looking around, we saw a swarm of hundreds of bees above the small shrine. Thankfully, they seemed preoccupied, so we slid quickly by, past a turnoff to Miyama Shrine.

We passed between two large rocks on each side of the trail known as Kujiraiwa, which means Whale Rock. The rock on the left looks like a whale, and has a hole on the top which resembles a blowhole. And the round rock on the left…is the whale’s poop. It sounds like I made that up, but I promise I didn’t. Soon after, we passed through Niōmon (仁王門, Niou gate), which has two guardian statues. After the gate, the trail forks onto the Daisho-in and Omoto Courses. We headed left for the Daisho-in Course.

The trail parallels, and occasionally crosses, the Shiraito River down a seemingly endless staircase. In 2005, a mudslide damaged Daisho-in temple and other areas. On the way down, we spotted some large dam-like structures that help prevent mudslides, which had been constructed a few years later in 2008.

At 4:30 pm we arrived at a small shelter called the Azumaya Observation Deck. There’s a decent view looking north (though not as broad a view as when we were higher up). At this point, it’s about 0.4 miles (0.7 km) to Daisho-in. Quickly, we passed some small shrines on the side of the trail as we descended. We had to hurry, and didn’t spend as much time as we’d like looking at everything. We passed Shiraito Falls, which supposedly resembles threads of silk. But not much water was flowing, so we didn’t really get that impression. We also heard that the mudslides in 2005 altered the way the falls look.

Somehow, we made it to Daisho-in just ten minutes before it closed. That’s nowhere near enough time to do it justice. But, we did our best and even got our goshuin stamped. Daisho-in has hundreds of small rakan statues, which represent the disciples of Buddha. There are also buildings and caves you can explore. When we revisit Miyajima someday, Daisho-in is one place we’d like to spend more time.

Dinner and Itsukushima Torii Gate at Low Tide

Once we walked back into the heart of the town, we noticed something had changed. Fewer people were out and about. Miyajima has a lot of day tourists, so the evenings seem a lot more chill. It was still pretty hot, so we decided to get ice cream…again. Twice in one day, why not? The server recognized us and gave us an additional scoop for free. Now it was time to see the torii gate again – at low tide.

The torii gate looked dramatically different. We walked onto the sand, which had been submerged not long ago. Now, a trickle flowed underneath the torii gate. Near the gate, we spotted various wildlife like small crabs. Eventually we made our way toward, and finally under, the torii gate. Being that close to the gate was a surreal and memorable experience.

For dinner, we decided to check out a brewery. I had been loving all the Japanese food we got on our trip, but I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to try some craft beer (though it’s less popular in Japan than in the US). Miyajima is known for oysters, which Kristin tried, as well as anago (fresh-water eel). I, on the other hand, really enjoyed the beer – especially the Blood Orange.

After dinner, we walked around and explored the area until it got dark. Stone lanterns by the water’s edge were lit for both ambiance and safety. At night, the shrine and torii gate are also illuminated, adding another element to their beauty and uniqueness. The gate in particular looked even more striking and majestic at night. By then, we were pretty tired, so we headed back to Sakuraya to crash.

The next morning we got a small breakfast of toast, salad, egg, tea, and juice for ¥500 through Sakuraya, (we had to request it the night before). After breakfast, it was time to go! We boarded the ferry back to Hiroshima, and sadly, our Miyajima adventure was over.

We wished we had more time to explore all that Miyajima has to offer. Specifically, I’d also like to hike up Mt. Misen next time (weather permitting), and further explore the east side of the island. The time flew by, but I was glad to finally see the torii gate that I’d seen in artwork since I was a kid.

Links

• Attractions
  • Setonaikai National Park Official Site (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Setonaikai (English)
  • Miyajima Tourist Association: Mt. Misen (English)
  • Japan Guide: Daisho-in Temple (English)
• Accomodations
  • Sakuraya (English)
• Restaurants
  • Miyajima Brewery (Japanese)
  • Baccano (Japanese)
• Other
  • Tides Near Me App (Google Play Store)

Maps

• Nature Hikes on Miyajima Maps (English) – Four maps of different courses on Miyajima. Lots of information, descriptions, and the best maps I had found for the island.

The post Miyajima and Mount Misen appeared first on KTNPBlog.

One of the top tourist attractions in the Japanese Alps is the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (立山黒部アルペンルート). Located in northern Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen), the route takes visitors on a journey through the mountains. The trip involves multiple modes of transportation such as bus, trolley, and cable car. Highlights of the Alpine Route include the snow corridor, hiking trails, the Midagahara wetlands, Kurobe Dam, volcanic features, and scenic views. Each stop along the route has its own personality and attractions.

The Alpine Route is only accessible from mid-April through November due to snow accumulation. Hotels, mountain huts, and campgrounds are located along the route, so you can make your trip as long or short as you like. We chose to spend one night in Midagahara Hotel (弥陀ヶ原), just below the apex of the route.

Murodo, the highest point along the Alpine Route, is home to Mount Tate (立山, Tateyama). We hoped to climb it as a day hike, but ended up exploring hiking trails at Midagahara instead due to time constraints. We were able to check out the volcanic area around Murodo known as Hell Valley. Murodo also boasts a picturesque but pricey lodging option called Hotel Tateyama.

Day 1 – Toyama to Midagahara

The day after we completed our backpacking trip to Mount Yari (Yarigatake), we took a bus from Shinhotaka Onsen to Toyama. Our journey officially began in Toyama, on the west side of the Alpine Route. Alternately, you could start on the east side, in Shinano Omachi.

A train took us from the Dentetsu Toyama Station to Tateyama Station. As with all our train rides in Japan, it was wonderful. We passed lots of verdant rice farmland along the way. After arriving at Tateyama Station, we awaited our second mode of transportation: a cable car to Bijodaira.

Our final type of transportation for the day was a bus, which took us to Midagahara. The bus goes all the way to Murodo, but you can press a “stop button” to get off earlier. Plenty of other people got off at Midagahara too, so we didn’t need to press it ourselves. The bus ride was peaceful, and had some decent views. The guide pointed out Shomyo Falls – the tallest waterfall in Japan – on the left side, though it was hard to see. For a better view, you can take a bus from Tateyama Station, followed by a short hike.

We got off the bus at Midagahara, and checked into the western style hotel, naturally called Midagahara Hotel. They upgraded our room when we checked in. We had reserved a twin room, but we ended up with a larger room with a lovely view and three beds! …score? Midagahara is known for its surrounding wetlands, so our plan was to go hike!

Day 1 – Midagahara Boardwalk Outer Course Hike

A network of trails runs throughout the park, and behind Midagahara Hotel are a couple recommended circuits – an inner loop, and a larger outer loop. The outer loop is only 2.1 km (1.3 mi), so we decided on that one. The trail begins on a boardwalk, which is the best place to hike in my opinion. Hiking over water allows you to access places and plant life you wouldn’t normally be able to.

There were wildflowers along the hike, but figuring out what they all are takes some work! The views out from the boardwalk were gorgeous, with clouds that looked like steam escaping from the earth. Around the path are “Gaki-no-ta,” or small ponds. They look like rice paddy fields, and are said to have been created by a hungry demon. The reflections in the pool gave the area an ethereal ambiance.

Every so often the hotel does a guided tour of the wetlands. And we ran right into the group. The only bad thing about boardwalks is there’s not much room to get around people. The guided group stopped frequently to hear the guide (who was speaking Japanese, otherwise we would have joined). Eventually, we got around the group and continued past the turnoff for the inner loop.

The trail transitions back and forth from a stone path to a boardwalk, and crosses a small stream. It feels more confined in this section, with bamboo grass surrounding the trail. Near the end of the loop, we spotted some snow next to the trail – and it was mid-July!

Asian skunk cabbage was just starting to blossom near the trail. The hotel was in view at this point, so we headed that way. The last unique wildflower we saw was a type of purple marsh orchid, which excited me since I always love seeing any kind of orchid. Overall, we really enjoyed our short hike.

Back at the hotel, it was time for dinner. It included a regional specialty called shiroebitei – raw white shrimp sashimi from Toyama Bay. We weren’t quite sure how to eat them, but we really enjoyed this delicacy. There was also a Wagyu beef hot pot (it was amazing) and a selection of other delicious food.

Day 2 – Murodo

Early the next morning, we caught a bus to Murodo, the highest point along the Alpine Route. Near the top is a popular destination called the “snow corridor,” where the road can have snow walls up to 20 meters (66 feet) high on both sides. Spring is the best time to experience it, and the bus will stop so visitors can get out and explore. The snow walls were significantly lower when we visited in the summer, but we still enjoyed our brief glimpse from the bus window. As we expected, the temperature in this area was much cooler than it had been at lower elevation.

The bus dropped us off at the Murodo Bus Terminal, and we promptly went to explore. There are a multitude of trails nearby, and we decided to do a short loop hike around Mikurigaike Pond. Mikurigaike and other nearby ponds are volcanic, meaning (we think) that they were formed in a caldera after a volcanic eruption, and later filled with rainwater and snowmelt.

A typhoon was impacting the area, so it was very foggy and a bit rainy. We plunged into the murky fog as we started the trail across stone-lined paths. Notably, snow covered some parts of the trail.

Our first stop was Mikurigaike Pond, which was surrounded by snow. Around this time, the clouds started to lift, revealing much appreciated blue sky. The ponds seemed to come to life as they reflected sky overhead. Near Mikurigaike, we spotted a rock ptarmigan, known as raichō (雷鳥) in Japan. There’s a population of about 350 of them in the Murodo area, and we were lucky to spot one. They’re not afraid of people, so I was able to get a close-up photo.

Next, we passed Jigokudani (Hell Valley), a volcanic area that reminded me of Yellowstone National Park. A trail passes through it, but it had been closed due to a high concentration of volcanic gases. However, we could look down at the steam vents to see the gases rising from the area. Mikurigaike Onsen is located near the trail to Jigokudani, if you want to stop for a soak.

We continued onto a side trail toward Rindouike Pond, which was covered with snow, so the view was a little disappointing. We spotted some Chinoike, or Blood Ponds, which appear reddish due to the high concentration of iron oxide. The air smelled heavily of sulfur along this section of trail, so we turned around and headed back to the loop once the smell became too pervasive.

Midorigaike Pond was our next sight. Smaller than Mikurigaike, it was very picturesque and lined with wildflowers. Mount Tateyama rises up behind the pond, though its summit was obscured by clouds. We passed Tateyama Murodo Mountain Hut, and then finished our loop. It was lunch time, so we ate our onigiri bento from Midagahara Hotel. Afterward, we decided to continue along the Alpine Route. I wish we had more time to explore Murodo, particularly to hike Mount Tateyama.

Day 2 – Kurobe Dam

We climbed aboard a trolley, our fourth mode of transportation. It took us through Mount Tateyama via a tunnel, en route to Daikanbo. At Daikanbo, an observation station affords great views of the surrounding mountains. Kristin found an interesting snack here which we hadn’t seen before: gohei mochi, which is basically grilled mochi covered in a sweet soy sauce. It’s a specialty of the surrounding mountainous region of Central Japan. It was delicious and we bought more at every opportunity going forward.

From Daikanbo, we boarded our fifth unique mode of transport, a ropeway down to Kurobedaira. We enjoyed the views, but it was too crowded to get any good photos. From there, we took a cable car to Kurobe Dam.

The sixth mode of transport is simply walking across the dam itself. Built between 1956 and 1963, the dam is on a grand scale and provides gorgeous views of the Kurobe River. As we walked across, water gushed through the open spillway.

The dam is a true tourist attraction, and its many platforms provide a variety of spectacular views. We tried to capture the essence of the dam through photos, but its massive size made our task difficult. After scoping out a few different perspectives, we continued on the Alpine Route. We took our seventh and final mode of transport: an electric bus which traveled through a tunnel to Ogizawa. From there, we took a bus to Shinano Omachi, the terminus of the route.

The Alpine Route was such a unique experience, and it allowed us to see so much of central Japan in a relatively short time. If you have time, we highly recommend checking it out. However, what we did is only a snippet of what’s available, as there are many other attractions along the route. Our next destination would be something completely different: we would travel south to Itsukushima (厳島), also known as Miyajima or “Shrine Island,” in Setonaikai National Park.

Links

• Official Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route Website (English)
• Wikipedia: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (English)
• Japan Guide: Alpine Route (English)
• Japan Guide: Midagahara (English)
• Midagahara Hotel (English)
• Japan Guide: Murodo (English)

Map

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Our hiking journey in Japan had been challenging due to Typhoon Prapiroon. It prevented us from summiting both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake. Though disappointed, we were still optimistic about our longest and most-anticipated hike to Mount Yari (槍ヶ岳, Yarigatake) in Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen). We had planned a three-day, 32.6 km (20.3 mi) trek, staying in mountain huts along the way. Our one-way route took us from Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), to Mount Yari, then to Shinhotaka Onsen (新穂高温泉). Thankfully, this trip turned out better than both Mt. Fuji and Mt. Yake.

Planning: Route

When researching where to hike in Japan, we stumbled upon Kamikochi – a scenic mountainous region within Chubusangaku National Park. Subsequent searching led to Mount Yari. The mountain is named after the Japanese word for “spear,” as the tip of the mountain looks rather sharp. Mount Yari is 3,180 meters (10,433 feet) tall and is the fifth tallest mountain in Japan.

The timing of our trip was important. Mt. Yari can get crowded, especially from mid-July through August. This is especially due to schools letting out for summer break. When we went in early July, it was significantly less crowded. However, we also had to consider the impact of the rainy season (early June through mid-July), which turned out to be significant.

There are multiple routes to the top of Mount Yari. A popular route is a loop from Kamikochi to Mount Yari, and then to Mount Hotaka (穂高岳, Hotaka-dake). It’s often called the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit. We were interested in it, but were put off by the section between Yari and Hotaka called the Daikiretto which means “big cut” in Japanese. It’s extremely steep and dangerous (people die there every year), with exposed ascents and descents. While I was intrigued, Kristin was not open to that option. Probably for the best, considering the wet weather we encountered.

Instead, we decided on a one-way route that started in Kamikochi and ended in Shinhotaka Onsen. Our trip would be three days and two nights, and we planned to stay in mountain huts along the trail. Each day of the journey would be strenuous, especially the second and third days. In early July, there was still a chance that we’d have to hike across snow fields. Just in case, we brought some inexpensive crampons, which (spoiler alert) came in handy.

Planning: Accommodations

Most mountain huts in Chubusangaku National Park provide meals and overnight accommodations. This meant we wouldn’t need to bring a tent, sleep system, or cooking gear. Sleep arrangements are typically dormitory style with wide bunks, though sometimes private rooms are available. If you prefer to camp, there are also campgrounds along the route.

Some mountain huts require reservations, but the ones we chose in 2018 did not. But, as of 2020, they now require reservations. These can be made online, even if you can’t speak Japanese. There are many lodges other than the ones we picked, so you can really customize a trip however you choose. Campgrounds typically don’t require reservations.

As of summer 2024, Yarisawa Lodge and Yarigatake Sanso cost ￥15,500 (~$100) per person per night for accommodations and three meals (dinner, breakfast, and to-go bento). The price can be reduced by forgoing some of the meals. An extra ￥12,000 (~$80) will get you a small private room. Mountain hut pricing differs, so be sure to bring yen regardless of the cost. Credit cards are not usually accepted.

To conclude our hike, we made a reservation at Yarimikan in the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. We wanted to experience an onsen, and Yarimikan has private baths. An onsen seemed like a great spot to relax after our 3-day journey.

Planning: Maps

English hiking maps of Japan are difficult to find. So, we bought Japanese maps and made it work. We had both paper and electronic maps. For paper maps, we got Mapple Map #40 from Amazon Japan for ￥1320 (~$10), which detailed the surrounding area. The map shipped quickly, and is good waterproof quality, though the NatGeo maps in the US are tougher. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”

As far as electronic maps, we downloaded Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) from Android Play. It’s free to install the app, then you purchase the specific map(s) you’re looking for. It provides an electronic version (same as Mapple’s paper version), plus you can see your location on it. We appreciated having both the paper and electronic versions, just in case.

After opening the app, you’re greeted by a “sign” with three options. The first option will go to your purchased maps (there’s a free sample map). At the bottom of that screen is a button that allows you to select other maps to purchase. Clicking on any of the maps leads to a product page where you can see more information. At the bottom of that page is a button that you click to buy that map. Currently, each electronic map costs $4.49.

Generally Japanese trails themselves don’t have names like they do in the United States. Instead, trail signs point to the destination at each intersection. So, we would follow trail signs to Mt. Yari. Similarly, Japanese trail maps don’t list distances. Instead, they list the approximate time from intersection to intersection in both directions. I can appreciate that, but I’d rather have the distance since hikers move at different speeds.

To help other travelers, we created a map for this hike in English and Japanese. Hopefully it helps if you’re planning a similar trip. Use at your own discretion, but we tried our best to make it helpful. We were given an English map when we got to the park, but it wasn’t as detailed or extensive as we would have liked, so we didn’t rely on it. Instead, we used the Mapple ones.

Planning: Gear

When we climbed Yarigatake in early July, there were still some snow fields. Just in case, we had brought crampons with us. And we were glad we had them, though we saw some climbers not using them. We also used trekking poles, and recommend doing so regardless of when you hike due to large elevation gains and losses. The snow fields would likely be greatly reduced by late July.

Due to snow melt, there were streams everywhere and it was easy to find water. We brought our Sawyer Squeeze water filter and found it helpful. Water is also available at huts. Generally, unless you stayed at a particular hut, you would need to purchase your water.

Since we were staying at huts, we didn’t need a tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, or cooking gear. This lightened our load considerably. We brought smaller backpacks – an Osprey Kestrel 38 for me, and Osprey Kyte 36 for Kristin. We both brought a rain jacket and rain pants, which were helpful. We also had small umbrellas which seemed like a strange item to bring on a backpacking trip, but turned out to be invaluable in this case.

Most of our snacks were brought from the United States, but we augmented our stash with Japanese ones too. It was fun trying different things that aren’t available at home. The mountain huts took care of breakfast, lunch, and dinner. For lunch, we requested a bento from the hut, which we’d eat on the trail. That made it simpler and easier than packing our own lunches. Mountain huts also sell snacks, though they’re understandably expensive.

Day 0 – Arriving at Kamikochi

On Friday we arrived at Kamikochi, and tried to determine whether our Mt. Yari trip would be possible given the typhoon. We went to the nearby information center to ask. The workers there were super helpful, and told us there was currently an impassable stream on the stretch from Mt. Yari to Shinhotaka Onsen. Bummer. We hoped that the weather would improve, but it continued to rain the rest of the day.

On Saturday, we inquired again and were told the same thing. Sunday was when we would be starting our backpacking trip. Conflicted, we headed back to Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (西糸屋山荘, Nishi Itoya Sansō), where we were staying in Kamikochi. We requested another night there, since we had decided not to hike Mount Yari.

Instead, one of the staff tried to convince us to hike Yari. He showed us the forecast, which was not great for our first day, but seemed to be good for the following days. The man was a guide who had done the hike to Yari multiple times. We went back and forth, but in the end, he convinced us to go for it. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right? Plus, this might be our only chance to do this hike. We made the right call, as the trip was fabulous. Thanks to the staff member at Nishi-ito-ya who got us to reconsider!

Day 1 – Leaving Kamikochi

Nishi-ito-ya in Kamikochi is a great lodge, and the staff was so friendly. Before leaving, we sent our luggage to Yarimikan via Takyubin. It’s a very handy luggage forwarding service that we used multiple times while in Japan. Leaving Nishi-ito-ya, we headed north along the path, past Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi) on our right. We decided to travel along the north side of the Azusa River so we could visit Myojin Pond (明神池, Myojinike) and Hotaka Shrine. It added about 15 minutes to our hike (compared to taking the path south of the river), but we didn’t want to miss these spots.

The rain continued as we walked along the river. Everything was drenched, but people were still out exploring. We were able to use our umbrellas, as the trail was fairly wide. Before long, we came upon Dakesawa Marsh (sometimes translated as Takezawa), which has a boardwalk. The area was flooded, but thankfully the water was still below the boardwalk. It’s beautiful, and the rain almost enhanced its beauty. And I’m a sucker for boardwalks and marshes.

After the marsh, we continued walking over bridges and past roaring streams. All the rushing streams head toward the Azusa river. We came upon an area with wide boardwalks along the river. At this point we saw how high the river had gotten based on it’s height compared to the trees. It was kind of daunting, as the rain continued to fall.

Day 1 – Myojin Pond

The rain started picking up even more as we reached a gravel road. We walked on it for a short time before getting onto another trail which ran parallel to the road. Eventually though, part of the trail was closed due to the high water, so we had to hike on the road. A truck trundled past us, and eventually we reached Myojin Pond and Hotaka-Okumiya Shrine. Part of the shrine is free to access, and you can pay ¥500/person to access Myojin Pond. We decided to pay the extra fee, bought a nice charm, and got our goshuin stamped. The pond is very serene and picturesque, and we were glad we got to see it. However we aren’t convinced it was worth the price we paid. The shrine is a branch of the main Hotaka Shrine, which is near Matsumoto.

Near Hotaka-Okumiya shrine is a small lodge called Kamonji-Goya. It was almost time for lunch, so we took a look at the menu, but nothing struck our fancy. The restaurant is actually quite famous, but we didn’t know that until later. At Myojin Bridge, we crossed the Azusa River. There were some free port-a-potties at the bridge too, if you’re in need of a restroom. On the other side of the bridge is a lodge called Myojinkan, where we hoped to get lunch.

It was still raining (surprise!). We avoided puddles, and saw people here and there. We arrived at Myojinkan – it’s a nice hut with a good selection of food and an English language menu (with pictures). I ordered the gyudon and Kristin got some tempura udon. Both were solid. We also grabbed a C.C. Lemon, one of our favorite Japanese soft drinks, from a nearby vending machine. Most vending machines in Kamikochi seemed to have it.

Leaving Myojinkan, we got out our umbrellas again. The next section is a flat, easy hike along the river. As we hiked, the rain started tapering off. And before we knew it, the sun started peeking out! We were overjoyed. It was the first time we saw the sun in four days. Invigorated, we continued on, enjoying views of mountains and the river. Along this section is a small pond called Furuike (古池, Old Pond), which is beautifully clear and mirror-like due to incoming spring water.

Day 1 – Tokusawa and Yokoo-Sanso

After crossing a stream that flows into the Azusa River, we entered a wooded area. From a distance, we spotted Tokusawa Lodge and went to check it out. There, we took a quick snack break. Shortly after, we passed free bathrooms, Tokusawa Campground, and Tokusawa-en Lodge. Past the Tokusawa area, we encountered mostly rolling hills where the trail is wide and follows the river. Eventually the trail narrows, and we passed a beautiful suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) that heads back across the river. We didn’t cross it, but couldn’t resist taking some photos.

We reached Yokoo-Sanso, the last lodge before Yarisawa, and noticed restrooms and a campground nearby. Checking our map, we saw that we were about 1 hour and 40 minutes away from Yarisawa. We weren’t sure whether to trust the time on the map, but it was 3:30 p.m., and dinner is served at Yarisawa at 5:00 p.m. I went into Yokoo-Sanso and asked the staff to call Yarisawa and let them know we’d be late. We wouldn’t get the usual dinner, instead it will be dehydrated curry, but we were okay with that (and we didn’t have a choice).

Confident that we’d be able to get some dinner that night, we grabbed another C.C. Lemon from a vending machine and continued on. The wide level path becomes more of a hiking trail here. It narrows, becomes rocky, and the trail starts to ascend significantly for the first time. As the trail took us closer to the river, we could see the beautiful rushing water. The air around us cooled, and we could see our breath.

The trail continued ascending and we spotted a sign along the trail. With my basic Japanese language skills, I read “Ganbatte!” which means “do your best” in English. It was a nice motivator, and we knew we were getting close. 10 minutes later, we saw the lodge and celebrated.

Day 1 – Yarisawa Lodge

Checking into the Yarisawa Lodge, we paid for our three meals and accommodations. We decided not to spend extra money for a private room. The staff started making our dehydrated curry. Kristin had to get the vegetarian curry because the beef one had milk in it. She was glad that they were able to accommodate her dietary restriction.

While our food was being prepared, we checked out the dorm area. We had spots on a top bunk, and were relieved to see that we had the whole row to ourselves. That’s one benefit of visiting during the off season. There were other guests below and across from us. Only about 15 people were staying the night, and we appreciated that the staff spread the guests out for privacy. Next to our bunk was a small window that overlooked the river.

Yarisawa has a drying room, so we grabbed our wet gear from the morning and went to check it out. We headed downstairs, past the public bath (which is open briefly at a designated time) and restrooms. We opened the door and immediately felt the intense heat of the drying room. There were shelves, clips, and hangers everywhere. All our gear dried within a few hours, except for our boots which were soaked.

Our dinner was ready, so we went into the dining room and ate our curry and rice. It was pretty good! We were just happy to eat at that point, though we wondered what the regular meal had been like. After finishing up, we explored the hut, and decided to go to bed early. Many hikers in Japan wake up before dawn, and breakfast would start at 5:30 a.m.

The pillow was weird, and the futon not super comfortable, but we fell asleep quickly. At 4 a.m. we were awakened by our bunkmates below. They continually rustled their bags as they packed up to leave. Like plastic grocery bags. Rustle, rustle, rustle. For about 30 minutes before they left the lodge. Some hikers like to get a really early start. We just wished they had packed the night before.

Day 2 – Leaving Yarisawa

Around 6 a.m. the next morning, we went to the dining room to join 8 or so other guests that stayed for breakfast. Some hikers start their day early and have breakfast on the trail, but that wasn’t an option for us. Plus, we wanted the full mountain hut experience. Breakfast was simple but good: miso soup and rice, both served family style, as well as veggies, tea, and a small piece of fish. We talked to a few other guests, and learned that several other hikers were heading to Yarigatake too.

After breakfast, we picked up our lunch bento, packed up, and filled up our water bottles. We purchased a couple of overpriced snacks, and Kristin bought a souvenir bear bell. It was 7:30 a.m. when we headed out. Immediately outside Yarisawa was a telescope. Curious, we peered through it and saw a very sharp mountain peak – Mt. Yari (Yarigatake). It was distant, but we appreciated knowing that our destination was in sight. We’d be hiking 5.7 km (3.5 mi) and ascending 1396 meters (4580 feet) that day. And, finally, the weather was gorgeous!

Finally, the trail started to ascend. It was rocky but easy going. We continued until we reached a shelter area (we later learned it’s called Babadaira Campground) with a restroom. As we ascended, we started seeing beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and valley. Clear alpine streams rushed down the mountainside due to the melting snow. Sometimes these streams were running on the trail itself. We saw a few other hikers going the opposite direction, but otherwise it was a quiet trail.

Eventually we broke out our bentos to see what they were. They were large, rectangular onigiri with lotus root, egg, and veggies. We weren’t sure of all the ingredients, but it was delicious. Savory with a slight sweetness, it was the best bento that we got from a lodge/hut in Japan.

Day 2 – Across Snow Fields

After lunch, we reached the first of four snow fields. It was a bit scary, never having crossed them before. We had brought some cheap, probably not great quality, four-point crampons. We strapped them over our boots, went slow, and also relied on our trekking poles to cross the snow field. I wished we had brought some microspikes or better crampons, but we got across without issue. We saw other hikers that didn’t use any crampons, but…I’d still recommend bringing something. The first snow field was the shortest, while the snow fields at higher elevation were larger.

We crossed a longer snow field, then spotted a cave. Banryu (1786-1840), a Buddhist priest and the first known climber of Yarigatake (1828), stayed in this cave for 54 days, while chanting constantly. Inside the cave are a few Jizo statues. After leaving the cave, we came to our longest snow crossing, which we took slowly and carefully.

Eventually we started seeing boulders with numbers painted on them. Initially, we thought the numbers represented the hiking distance to the peak of Mt. Yari, or the elevation. However, we eventually realized it’s actually the elevation gain required to reach the top in meters. It was a nice measure of our progress, which gave us renewed energy. In the rock scramble sections, some rocks had large Xs and Os on them, indicating where to go (the Os) or avoid (the Xs), which was useful since the terrain wasn’t a defined path.

As we climbed higher, the spear-shaped peak of Yarigatake came into view again. Eventually, we spotted Yarigatake Sanso, just below the peak, where we would spend the night. It was a rough climb, but we eventually made it around 2:45 p.m. We were exhausted, but thrilled that we were finally there. Behind us were amazing views of the area we had just hiked through.

Day 2 – Summiting Yarigatake

At Yarigatake Sanso, we reserved our bunks and set our gear aside. Hikers can climb the peak of Yarigatake, situated just next to the lodge. We knew we wouldn’t have time the next day, so we decided to go ahead and do it. We had an hour or so before dinner, which turned out to be just enough time.

Climbing to the peak of Yari is not for the fainthearted. It’s a vertical climb aided by ladders, chains, and scrambling. I thought it was tons of fun, but Kristin thought it was scary. The routes up and down the peak are mostly separate, so you won’t run into people going the opposite direction. A few sections are combined, and hikers must be patient.

Making our way up the peak, we held onto the chains and ladders as we scrambled our way to just below the summit. From there, two ladders lead to the very top. Some climbers coming down mentioned that the ladders felt a bit loose. That was kind of scary to hear, but we proceeded and they seemed secure to us.

A small shrine sits at the summit (of course). The peak was shrouded in a dense fog. It was hard to see out any distance, but we did get a view of Yarisanso and glimpses of the surrounding mountains. After a few minutes, we carefully climbed back down. Here are more details about climbing the peak.

Day 2 – Dinner at Yarigatake Sanso

Back at Yarisanso, we were starving. Thankfully, it was dinner time! Unlike Yarisawa, we had arrived in plenty of time to eat. Everyone filed into the huge dining room. It could probably seat hundreds of people, though there were only about 15 guests. Nice thing about it not being peak season yet.

Sitting down at a table with others, we each had a plate of hamburger steak (hambagu) and veggies. As usual, rice and miso soup were served family style. There was another foreigner beside us, a solo British man, who was very nice. We also met and chatted with a Japanese woman who lives in Seattle. Everyone else appeared to be Japanese, and we talked with them as much as we could. A couple of guys even poured miso soup on their rice and told us it was “Japanese soul food.”

In the dining room, and the hut in general, there was a wonderful sense of camaraderie. We shared another C.C. Lemon (we’re addicted) from the vending machine. The machine also had beer, but I wasn’t feeling it (nor did it seem like the best choice for a multi-day hiking trip).

After dinner, we went upstairs to request a bento for the following day. We also inquired about the water crossing that we would reach the next day (it had been impassable for few days due to the typhoon). The staff showed us a photo of the area on an iPad. It was very hard to tell, but we thought it would be doable, so we continued with our original plan to hike to Shinhotaka Onsen. Not that we really had a backup in mind.

We went outside on the patio to take some more photos. The clouds had lifted a bit and we gazed out over the horizon. And what did we see? Mt. Fuji. It’s unmistakable due to its distinctive shape. Having been forced to abandon our plans of hiking it earlier in our trip, it was therapeutic to see it now.

We wanted to get to bed early. Our bunk was on the bottom this time, a welcome change compared with Yarisawa. Across the aisle, we spotted an older Japanese couple – our bunkmates from the previous night. Turns out they spoke some English and we had a nice conversation. And we felt a little bad that we complained about them rustling their bags early in the morning. We hope when we’re their age, we can still hike and backpack.

Day 3 – Leaving Yarigatake Sanso

We woke to the lovely sounds of bag rustling again at 4 a.m. After getting a bit more sleep, we got up around 6 a.m. We enjoyed a simple and tasty breakfast of salmon, veggies, egg, miso soup, and rice. Today would be the longest day; we would hike 12.1 km (7.5 mi) and descend 2093 meters (6867 feet). There would also be a water crossing of unknown difficulty. We were excited, but not sure how the trip would go, so we packed and headed out at 7:15 a.m.

Saying goodbye to the lodge, we headed through the adjacent campground. Its many sites are intricately laid out along and below the ridgeline, though only a few groups were using it. I was glad we stayed in the lodge. I’m not sure I trust the campground in high winds given that it’s so exposed – plus not having to bring a tent, sleeping bag, or meals is a huge advantage.

After leaving the campground, we came to an intersection. We turned right to head down the mountain. Straight would have taken us through the previously mentioned Daikiretto area. The weather was sunny and beautiful, but we didn’t see too many other hikers. Some had likely been put off by the recent weather. The trail is well defined, but steep with some loose slippery rocks in some places. Trekking poles were a necessity.

On the other side of Yari, the landscape seemed vastly different. We were surrounded by gorgeous snow-covered peaks. As we descended, we started seeing more lush green plant life. Fog rolled in, and we worried about the potential for rain, but thankfully it didn’t materialize.

Day 3 – Injuries and Lunch

Further down, we spotted some pretty wildflowers. We descended through an area with larger rocks, so we had to be careful. Suddenly, Kristin banged her knee, so I stopped to see how she was doing. She hit it pretty hard on a rock, and it was very painful. Thankfully she could still hike, but we needed to move at a slower pace.

I was hoping to get to Yarimikan, our onsen ryokan, by 17:00 (5:00 p.m.) for dinner. So we continued on, trying to hurry where we could. The area around us transitioned into a more lush, humid atmosphere that almost reminded me of a jungle. Pinked flags tied to trees sometimes marked our route.

We crossed a few streams, some of which swelled with rain water and were a bit tricky to cross. The area became more forested. Near an intersection, we passed a campground and arrived at Yaridaira Hut. It was a convenient spot to rest and grab a simple meal of udon and a C.C. Lemon. Kristin’s knee was still hurting, but manageable. Earlier we had also eaten our bento from Yarigatake Sanso, and while it was good, it wasn’t as good as the one from Yarisawa Lodge the previous day.

After finishing our meal, we continued. Concerned with time, I tried to hurry Kristin along. I moved faster to try to get her to move faster. But she could only go so fast with her knee. So we got angry with each other and barely talked for a couple hours. Eventually we apologized, and we both felt better. Part of hiking and marriage.

Day 3 – Streams and Dams

Eventually, we reached the stream that we had been warned about. It looked harder to cross than the picture we’d seen at Yarisanso. It took us 20 minutes to find a safe spot to cross without getting soaked or injured. As I landed on the other side, the rocks below me gave out. And…I banged up my leg. Poetic justice? But we got across eventually, and it turned out there were three separate crossings as the water flowed down the hill. As we were doing this, another hiker came along and hopped over everything in half the time it took us.

After the stream crossing, we made good time and reached a dry dam shortly after. Thinking the trail led right over it, we climbed down a ladder, crossed the dam, and climbed back up. We discovered that we went the wrong way though, as the trail actually goes below the dam. So we retraced our steps, curious why the dam was dry when everything else was overflowing.

On the other side of the dam, the trail became more of a fire road as we neared the end of our hike. A few streams flowed under the trail, and we passed several other dams. The terrain was gently descending at this point, so we made good time.

Passing by a lodge called Hotakadaira-goya, we immediately made a wrong turn. We continued along the “fire road,” but we should have taken a shorter trail that leads into the forest. We realized this further down the road, but we kept going since the road eventually meets back up with the other side of the trail. Eventually, we spotted the intersection with the trail. Since we missed the shortcut, we had to hike about an extra 1.0 km (0.6 mi).

Day 3 – Shinhotaka Onsen

A car passed by as we continued down the road, alongside the Gamada River. We also spotted several dams, and some buildings under construction. Soon, we stepped into the town of Shinhotaka Onsen. Thanks to Skype, we were able to call our ryokan, and they sent a shuttle. My limited Japanese and some English got the point across. Pro-tip: get a Japanese SIM card or pocket WiFi device so you can make calls.

The shuttle took us to a small, beautiful ryokan onsen called Yarimikan. We checked in, dropped our stuff in our room, and immediately went to take a bath. No one was in either the men’s or the women’s, so we had it all to ourselves. It’s a relaxing spot, with views of the Gamada River. Feeling refreshed, we headed to dinner. The meal was…disappointing. The service was slow, the food was nothing special, and they brought us one item at a time, so we couldn’t really enjoy our meal. Everything else about the onsen was amazing, but the food could’ve been better. Especially compared with other ryokans we visited.

After finishing our meal, we went to check out some of the private onsens. Our tired muscles enjoyed soaking and relaxing in the hot (almost too hot) water. Once finished, we returned to our room and passed out. The futon was the most comfortable one we had in Japan. We were glad, because we needed the rest after our 3-day adventure.

In the morning, we ate breakfast at Yarimikan (again, kinda disappointing) and checked out. The ryokan shuttle took us to the Shinhotaka Ropeway (HO65) bus stop. In a building next to the bus stop, we bought tickets from a machine for the Nohi Okuhida-Toyama bus route (note: this route seems to no longer exist, but there are other options). Prior reservations aren’t required. Our bus eventually arrived, a little late, and we were on our way to Toyama. From Toyoma, we headed into the northern part of Chubusangaku National Park, toward the Alpine Route.

Final Thoughts

Mount Yari was the highlight of our trip, with its stunning views, mountain huts, and solitude. Being surrounded by breathtaking mountains in Japan is unlike any experience we’ve had. It was also interesting culturally, since backpacking we’ve done in the US has been quite different. Our journey was nothing short of epic, and we hope to do more hiking in the region one day.

The route we planned worked well for us. The only issue was the descent on the last day. I wouldn’t recommend descending ~6000 feet in a day, but at the same time, I’m glad we didn’t take an extra day to hike down. Lastly, ending at Shinhotaka allowed us to relax in an onsen after the hike. If you want more adventure and don’t mind a potentially dangerous route, you might consider the Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka circuit.

Yarigatake is crazy busy in summer (mid-July through August), so I do recommend planning your trip during the off-season. We dealt with storms due to the rainy season though, so it’s a gamble. But we reaped the rewards with a mostly uncrowded route. So weigh what’s important to you. Fall might be another time to consider visiting.

If you’re considering this hike, there’s a list of helpful resources below. And if you have any questions or thoughts, feel free to leave a comment!

Backpacking Mount Yari (Yarigatake)

Date: Sunday, July 8, 2018 – Tuesday, July 10, 2018
Type: 2-Night Backpacking, One Way Shuttle
Total Distance: 32.6 km (20.3 mi) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: +2060 meters (6759 feet), -2454 meters (8051 feet)

• Day 1 (Starting from Kappa Bridge):
  • Distance: 14.8 km (9.2 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 540 meters (1772 feet) gain, 225 meters (738 feet) loss
  • Time: 7 hours, including lunch, breaks, and exploring
  • Overnight: Yarisawa Lodge
• Day 2 (Distance/Elevation includes climbing the peak of Mt. Yari):
  • Distance: 5.7 km (3.5 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1396 meters (4580 feet) gain, 136 meters (446 feet) loss
  • Time: 7.5 hours to get to the lodge, including lunch and breaks. It took an additional 50 minutes to climb the peak of Mt. Yari.
  • Overnight: Yarigatake Sanso
• Day 3 (Ending at Shinhotaka Ropeway):
  • Distance: 12.1 km (7.6 mi)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 124 meters (407 feet) gain, 2093 meters (6867 feet) loss
  • Time: 9 hours, including lunch and breaks
  • Overnight: Yarimikan in Shinhotaka Onsen

Trail Markings: Trail signs at intersections, markings painted on rocks: “O” (safe route), “X” (avoid)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: Low
Water: Streams, creeks, waterfalls, small ponds
Highlights: Views, wildlife, mountains, Japanese culture, lodges, wildflowers, snow, creeks, bridges, onsen
Directions to Kamikochi: Google Maps Directions
Notes: There are many route options; below is the one we did.

Trail Directions

• Day 1
  • 0.0 km / 0.0 mi – From Kappa Bridge in Kamikochi, head north on the gravel path along the river.
  • 0.2 km / 0.1 mi – Where the road and the path join briefly, bear right to stay on the path. A trail sign points toward “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 3.3 km. After about 5-10 minutes on the trail, you’ll enter Dakesawa Marsh via a boardwalk.
  • 0.7 km / 0.4 mi – Bear right at the intersection, following the sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 2.8 km. This section goes through the forest, crossing many bridges with views of the Azusa River on the right.
  • 2.4 km / 1.5 mi – Turn right when the trail intersects with the Chisan transport road. Follow the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 1.1 km.
  • 2.7 km / 1.7 mi – Turn right to get back on a walking trail, following the sign for “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.8 km. The trail runs parallel to the road along some boardwalk sections.
  • 3.5 km / 2.2 mi – Arrive at the Myojin Pond area. To see the shrine and pond, head left at the trail sign to “Myojin-Ike Pond” in 0.1 km. Otherwise, continue straight toward Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.6 km / 2.2 mi – At the bridge, turn right to cross the Azusa River via Myojin Bridge.
  • 3.9 km / 2.4 mi – Arrive at Myojinkan Lodge, staying to the right of the building. At the T intersection with the main building, turn left. A trail sign points to 徳沢 (Tokusawa) in 3.4 miles.
  • 4.2 km / 2.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with Tokugotoge Shimashimadani, toward Tokusawa-Yokoo.
  • 5.6 km / 3.5 mi – Pass by Furuike (Old Pond).
  • 6.8 km / 4.2 mi – Keep left at the intersection. However, if you want to take a break or explore, you could bear right toward Tokusawa Lodge. You’ll pass another intersection in a few minutes, which also leads to the lodge. Shortly after that, you’ll pass a bathroom, then Tokusawa Campground, and some lodges. Keep straight until you get to Michikusa Shokudo.
  • 7.1 km / 4.4 mi – Turn left at Michikusa Shokudo, another lodge.
  • 7.3 km / 4.5 mi – Keep right at the intersection, toward 横尾 (translated as Yokoo).
  • 8.0 km / 5.0 mi – Continue straight to “Yokoo-Karasawa-Yari” and pass a suspension bridge (Shinmura Bridge) on your left that crosses the Azusa River.
  • 10.7 km / 6.7 mi – Arrive at the Yokoo area, where there is a lodge, campground, and restrooms. Continue straight, with the lodge buildings on your right. A large bridge will be on your left. Follow the sign toward “槍ヶ岳”, or Yarigatake. After this point, the trail becomes more of a true hiking trail rather than a gravel path.
  • 14.8 km / 9.2 mi – Arrive at Yarisawa Lodge! Stay the night, and continue on the trail in the morning.
• Day 2
  • 16.7 km / 10.4 mi – Head left at the intersection with Minamata. Follow the sign toward Yarigatake.
  • 17.8 km / 11.1 mi – Bear right at the intersection (left leads to Mt. Minami and Tenguhara Junction).
  • 18.7 km / 11.6 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail that goes to Hutte Oyari. There’s a trail sign all in Japanese.
  • 19.2 km / 11.9 mi – Continue straight at the intersection with the trail to Sessho Hyutte.
  • 19.3 km / 12.0 mi – Continue straight at another intersection that goes to Sessho Hyutte. Then, make the last push to Yarigatake Sanso.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Turn left at the intersection, and climb a short distance to arrive at Yarigatake Sanso! Check-in and relax.
  • 20.0 km / 12.4 mi – Optionally, climb to the peak of Mt. Yari. From Yarigatake Sanso, head left out of the main doors toward the peak beside the lodge. At the base, a sign points to “The top of Mt. Yarigatake” in 0.2 mi. There are separate routes to ascend and descend. Follow the route to ascend with multiple chains and ladders.
  • 20.2 km / 12.6 mi – Climb the last ladder to the top, enjoy the view and shrine, then head back down along the descent route.
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Arrive back at Yarigatake Sanso.
• Day 3
  • 20.4 km / 12.7 mi – Exit Yarigatake Sanso, turn right, and pass the campground. You’ll pass a trail sign pointing to “Shinhotaka-onsen Spa” in 14.4 km, and “Mt. Hotaka-dake” in 9.0 km.
  • 20.7 km / 12.9 mi – Turn right at the intersection. A worn sign (in Japanese) is there, but it can be hard to read.
  • 22.0 km / 13.7 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.2 km / 15.0 mi – Continue straight at the intersection.
  • 24.3 km / 15.1 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past Yaridaira Goya mountain hut.
  • 25.7 km / 16.0 mi – Pass Takidani Junction, where there may be some stream crossings.
  • 27.9 km / 17.3 mi – Continue straight at the intersection, past the dam. The trail becomes a gravel road.
  • 28.1 km / 17.5 mi – After the dam, continue straight past the intersection.
  • 30.5 km / 19.0 mi – Go past Hotakadaira-goya mountain hut. Locate the trail heading to the west, near the mountain hut. If you can’t find it, continue on the road (this is what we did) though it will take slightly longer.
  • 31.2 km / 19.4 mi – Turn left, back onto the road as the trail ends.
  • 32.6 km / 20.3 mi – Arrive in Shinhotaka Onsen and relax!

Maps

• Yarigatake to Shinhotaka Map (KNTP) – Map that we created, in English and Japanese. Thanks to HokkaidoWilds.com for information and directions. We did the best we could do to make this map, but please use at your own discretion.
• Mapple Map 40 (Amazon Japan) – Map is in Japanese, but has some English for specific features. Mapple updates their maps every year, and the map number for each area can change, so be sure you get the map entitled “Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi.”
• Mapple Yamatokogen (山と高原地図) – Mapple App in Google Play Store to download and view digital maps (must purchase separately from paper maps).
• Northern Japan Alps Panorama-Ginza Hiking Map (Azumino City Tourist Association) – We got a paper version of this while in Japan, but this is a digital copy in English that you can view. Does not cover the area around Shinhotaka Onsen.

Links

• Kamikochi (上高地)
  • Kamikochi Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Kamikochi (English)
  • Chubu Sangaku National Park Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Chubu Sangaku National Park (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Chubu Sangaku (English)
  • Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (English) – Where we stayed in Kamikochi, highly recommended.
• Yarigatake and Mountain Huts
  • Yarigatake Page on Yarigatake Sanso Group Site (English) – Has general information about some huts and the mountain. Can get additional information from Japanese language pages if you use Google Translate. Created by the group that operates Yarisawa and Yarigatake Sanso lodges.
  • Yarisawa Lodge (Japanese) – Where we stayed our first night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yarigatake Sanso Lodge (Japanese) – We stayed here our second night (requires prior reservations).
  • Yokoo-Sanso Official Site (English) – We didn’t stay at this lodge, but it’s just below Yarisawa.
  • Yarisawa Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Yarigatake Sanso Page on Northern Alps Mountain Huts Site (Japanese)
  • Japan-Guide: Kamikochi-Yari-Hotaka Circuit (English)
  • Hiking in Japan: Mt. Yari (English)
  • Mt. Yari Peak Route Details (English)
• Shinhotaka Onsen
  • Yarimikan (English) – Onsen where we stayed after the hike
  • Japan-Guide Okuhida Access & Orientation (English)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking Mount Yari (Yarigatake) appeared first on KTNPBlog.

While our misadventures in Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi were over, the rain from Typhoon Prapiroon continued. But it was time to head to Chubusangaku National Park (中部山岳国立公園, Chūbusangaku Kokuritsu Kōen). We’d be spending almost a full week exploring the park, which encompasses the Northern Japanese Alps, so there are many opportunities for hiking and backpacking. Our first hike would be to Mount Yake (焼岳, Yakedake), an active volcano, near the town of Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi).

Located in the southern part of Chubusangaku National Park, Kamikochi has spectacular views. It’s situated in a valley surrounded by mountains, so it’s a perfect jumping off point for hikes. The area is only open to visitors from mid/late April to November 15. Visitors have to take a bus or taxi to Kamikochi, since private vehicles are not permitted in the park.

The timeframe that we visited was both good and bad. It was the tail end of the rainy season, so it wasn’t crowded. In mid July, the park would get very busy. Days before we were set to arrive in Kamikochi, Typhoon Prapiroon hit Japan, causing widespread flooding. It significantly impacted our trip, so we worked around it (or through it) as best we could.

Unfortunately, we didn’t get to the summit of Mt. Yake. We made it about three-quarters of the way up the mountain before wind and rain drove us back into the more protected valley. We’ll detail our experiences below.

Kamikochi

The day we planned to travel from Lake Kawaguchi to Kamikochi, I got an email from Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (西糸屋山荘, Nishi-ito-ya Sansō), where we’d be staying in Kamikochi. We were informed that the narrow, winding road to Kamikochi was closed due to flooding. Never ones to give up, we decided to go anyway.

Thankfully, I got an email en route that the roads had re-opened, so we were relieved. Once we reached Matsumoto, we took a train to Shinshimashima, and then a bus to Kamikochi. Alpico, the operator of the route, provides a guide to help visitors travel to the park. The bus ride afforded mountain views as we entered the park. We also saw the swollen streams along the way, as rain continued to fall.

After about an hourlong bus ride, we arrived at Kamikochi Bus Terminal. Everything was soaked and dreary. Thankfully we had brought umbrellas. We made our way along the muddy path to Nishi-ito-ya Lodge. It’s a short walk, only about 10 minutes, and we crossed the picturesque Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi) on the way.

We had booked a traditional Japanese style room, which included a toilet and sink. Once we arrived at the lodge, we checked in and got organized. Afterward, we planned to explore the area around the lodge. At this point, it was still raining, and we borrowed some large umbrellas from Nishi-ito-ya, which were appreciated. We visited some small shops, and bought a few snacks and gifts.

Kamikochi’s most famous attraction is Kappa Bridge (河童橋, Kappabashi), which is close to Nishi-ito-ya. The bridge, named after a mythical aquatic Japanese creature, has become a symbol of the area. On an average day, you can see breathtaking views of the surrounding Hotaka Mountains, but on this day we couldn’t see much other than clouds. However, it was still quite pretty. Back at the lodge, we stored all our wet gear in the drying room. The staff helped us figure out where to put everything.

Nishi-ito-ya has a communal bath, and this would be our first time experiencing that. I was a bit nervous using the public bath initially, but Kristin was a bit more adventurous. After bathing, we dined at Nishi-ito-ya and got to bed early. We planned to hike to Mount Yake the next day, assuming the weather cooperated.

To Mount Yake

Mount Yake is an active volcano. Its Japanese name, Yakedake, means “burning mountain.” The highest peak is at 2,455 meters (8,054 feet), and there’s a small lake between the two main peaks.

We planned to hike to the summit of Mt. Yake (Yakedake). The route from Kappa Bridge to Mt. Yake is a 12.7 km (7.9 mi) out-and-back (round trip). The hike boasts gorgeous views, volcanic features like steam vents (fumaroles), and precariously placed ladders. It’s a strenuous hike, with 1,062 meters (3,481 feet) in elevation gain/loss. A mountain hut, called Yakedake Goya (焼岳小屋), is located near the summit. Reservations are required to stay overnight.

The next morning, it was still pouring, but we were tired of cancelling plans. After breakfast, we picked up the bento we had requested the night before from Nishi-ito-ya; this would be our lunch on the trail.

After leaving Nishi-ito-ya, we turned right onto the main trail. Our route took us south, beside the Azusa River (梓川, Azusagawa). There are multiple intersecting trails here. While some are paved, we mainly used the gravel path by the river. Usually, the Azusa River is a lucid blue (or so we heard), but on this day it was turbid and murky. The rain slowed, and even stopped intermittently. This was an improvement, so we kept going, and noticed other visitors who were equally committed to exploring the area.

Next to the path, we came upon Weston Monument, a small relief of Walter Weston (1861-1940). He introduced western mountain climbing to Kamikochi and is credited with popularizing the area as the “Japanese Alps.” Conveniently, there’s also a restroom located nearby.

We passed some hotels and lodges, followed by Tashiro Bridge on our left. Then, the trail veered away from the river. As we were hiking, we heard a loud roaring sound, and wondered if we were in trouble. Thankfully, we quickly realized it was a swollen stream flowing underneath the trail. All the streams we’d seen were at a higher volume than normal, so it shouldn’t have been a surprise.

Shortly after, we ran into a sign blocking our path. We had no clue what it said, but we assumed it said something about cars not being allowed past this section (and you know what they say about assuming), so we went around and continued on. Later, Google Translate helped us determine that the sign stated that “traffic is prohibited due to mudflow.” Thankfully, that hadn’t been an issue. We turned right onto the main trail to Mt. Yake. At this point the trail turned from a level walking path to more of a true hiking trail.

Climbing Mount Yake, Sort of

While we had seen other visitors on the gravel path along the river, we saw no one in the forest. The trail was rocky, wet, and muddy, with a subtle but increasingly steep incline. Water was everywhere! Streams flowed on, across, and through the trail. It was still raining, but the path became too narrow to use our umbrellas, so we had to rely on our other rain gear. As we crossed bridges, roaring streams flowed underneath them. The weather was miserable, but we were still enjoying the hike.

Along the trail we spotted a frog (or possibly a toad?), and I spent a lot of time trying a get a good photo. Probably too long, as Kristin was ready to move. As we continued, we started encountering multiple ladders along the trail. They’re kind of fun, but also scary since the ladders aren’t always in the best shape. They looked rickety, but they felt solid.

Some of the bridges go over a gap between rocks, which also seemed sketchy at first. Thankfully, there are handholds – either chains or ropes. Some of the ladders are literally just placed vertically on a hillside, and are attached to rods that have been hammered into the hill. At one ladder, we encountered a worker carrying gear on his back in crates. We guessed he worked at one of the mountain huts. He would be the only person we’d see before returning from our hike.

After ascending a ways, we started to get some scenic mountain and valley views. Thick clouds covered the sky, but the rain had stopped temporarily. After hiking up a hillside we reached the tallest ladder yet, going up a cliff. On closer inspection, it was actually multiple smaller ladders attached to each other. It looked scary, but wasn’t that bad when we actually got on it. Looking back, the photos appear scarier than the hike actually felt.

As we continued, we encountered chains to help us climb up the rock face. We were back under tree cover, but we could tell the rain was picking up again. As we entered an open area, weather conditions became rainy and very windy. Our umbrellas were useless at this point, but we continued on.

Eventually, we took a break under tree cover to eat lunch. The bento boxes were nothing special – two onigiri with raw umeboshi and a small fish. Breakfast and dinner had been very good at Nishi-ito-ya, so it was disappointing.

After reviewing our map, we realized we were close to Yakedake Goya mountain hut. But the weather was getting worse, we were already soaked, and we couldn’t see much because of the clouds. We also acknowledged that we could be in trouble if the weather suddenly worsened. It was disappointing, but we decided to hike back down.

We made good time on our way back down. The rain and wind cleared up as we descended into the protected valley. At that point, we decided to stay on the paved trail, away from the river since we had taken the gravel paths on the way to Mt. Yake. The paved trail doubles as a maintenance road, so we had to watch out for vehicles.

Near a trail intersection with the Mt. Nishihotaka (西穂高岳, Nishihotakadake) trailhead, we saw an animal that made the whole hike worth it: a Japanese macaque in a tree. It was the first monkey we’ve ever seen in the wild! It was a novel experience, so we snapped some photos, and made sure to keep our distance. Eventually we moved on, passing the small Oyama Shrine (Oyamanokami), or shrine to the Mountain God.

Back at Nishi-ito-ya, we were exhausted and soaked. The friendly front desk employee helped us with our gear and outerwear – shoes, umbrellas, backpack covers, rain pants, and rain jackets. He hung them up to dry, while we put on slippers and headed toward a much appreciated hot bath in the ofuro (Japanese bath), followed by dinner.

We can’t give a complete guide or review of the hike to Mt. Yake since we didn’t actually finish it. The unique obstacles – ladders, chains, and bridges – provided a fun challenge, so I can see us enjoying the hike in milder weather. I was looking forward to seeing the views and volcanic features, and maybe someday we’ll get another chance.

Mount Yake Trail

Date: Saturday, July 7, 2018
Type: Out and back day hike
Total Distance: 12.7 km (7.9 mi)
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1,062 meters (3,481 ft)
Time: 6.5 hours to do 75% of the hike in terrible weather. Our Shobunsha Mapple map of the trail estimates around 8 hours for the entire hike.
Trail Markings: Signs at intersections
Difficulty: Strenuous
Crowds: A few people along the river only
Water: River, many streams, a volcanic lake at the top we didn’t get to.
Highlights: Volcanic features, views, water, mountain hut, wildlife, wildflowers
Directions to Kappa Bridge (Kappabashi): Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 km (0.0 mi) – From Kappa Bridge (Kappabashi), head southwest along the path with the Azusa River on your left. You’ll pass Nishi-ito-ya and other lodges on your right. Numerous paths, paved and unpaved, go parallel to the river. All trails lead to Mt. Yake.
• 1.1 km (0.7 mi) – You’ll arrive at an intersection with a restroom, and then the Weston Memorial. Continue heading southwest, either along the paved transport road or gravel path by the river (distances are for gravel path). You’ll pass two onsen hotels on your right.
• 1.5 km (0.9 mi) – Arrive near Tashiro Bridge and around the Mt. Nishihotaka Trailhead. There are a few intersecting trails/roads here; just follow signs for Mt. Yake.
• 2.3 km (1.4 mi) – Turn right to exit the walking path, and begin the hiking trail to Mt. Yake. There is a large sign indicating the turnoff. Elevation gain begins here.
• 5.0 km (3.1 mi) – Turn left toward Mt. Yake. Yakedake Goya mountain hut is located at this intersection, if you want to make it an overnight.
• 5.4 km (3.4 mi) – Continue straight past the intersection.
• 6.3 km (3.9 mi) – Turn right onto a short path to Mt. Yake
• 6.35 km (3.95 mi) – At the end of the trail, turn around and head back down when ready.
• 6.4 km (4.0 mi) – Turn left and return to the main trail to head back down.
• 7.3 km (4.5 mi) – Continue straight past the intersection.
• 7.7 km (4.8 mi) – Turn right, going past Yakedake Goya.
• 10.4 km (6.5 mi) – Turn left, onto the level walking path heading north to Kamikochi.
• 11.3 km (7.0 mi) – Continue straight, past Tashiro Bridge and Mt. Nishihotaka Trailhead. You can return via the transport road or paths by the river. If you take the transport road, you’ll pass a small shrine on your left.
• 11.7 km (7.3 mi) – At the intersection with Weston Monument, take the paved or gravel path.
• 12.7 km (7.9 mi) – Back at Kappa Bridge!

Maps

• Mount Yake Trail Map (KTNP) – A map we created for the hike in English
• Mountain and Highland Map Mt. Yarigatake/Mt. Hotakadake Kamikochi 2024 (Shobunsha Mapple, Map #40, Amazon.co.jp) – A map of the Kamikochi area, including Mt. Yake. It’s analogous to the National Geographic maps you might get in North America. Even though it’s in Japanese, you can still understand the map if you don’t speak the language.

Links

• Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi)
  • Kamikochi Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Kamikochi (English)
  • Chubusangaku National Park Official Site (English)
  • Japan-Guide Chubu Sangaku National Park (English)
  • National Parks of Japan: Chubusangaku (English)
  • Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge (English) – Where we stayed in Kamikochi, highly recommended.
  • Guide on How to Travel Between Kamikochi and Matsumoto by Bus (English)
  • Kamikochi, Wikipedia (English)
• Mount Yake (焼岳, Yakedake)
  • Mount Yake, Wikipedia (English)
  • Yakedake Goya (Japanese) – Mountain hut near the summit of Mt. Yake. Reservations required.

Places

• Nishi-ito-ya Mountain Lodge | Kamikochi-4469-1 Azumi, Matsumoto, Nagano 390-1516, Japan
• Kappa Bridge | 36.248797, 137.637861
• Weston Monument | 36.246981, 137.626717
• Yakedake Goya | 36.236859, 137.594121

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Exploring Kamikochi and Mount Yake appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Back in 2018, we explored several regions of Japan, and we were particularly excited to finally visit some international National Parks. And we decided to start by hiking the big one: Mount Fuji (富士山, Fujisan). After that, we planned to stay in the town of Fujikawaguchiko (富士河口湖町, Fujikawaguchiko-machi), located beside Lake Kawaguchi (河口湖, Kawaguchiko) at the base of Mt. Fuji.

Spoiler alert: we weren’t able to climb Mt. Fuji, but we had fun anyway. This post details the bit we did get to experience on Mt. Fuji and in the town of Fujikawaguchiko (also located within Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park).

Planning

Mount Fuji is located in Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park (富士箱根伊豆国立公園, Fuji-Hakone-Izu Kokuritsu Kōen), southwest of Tokyo. The mountain is divided into 10 “stations,” ascending from bottom to top. We decided to start from the Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station, which is about halfway up and is accessible by bus.

There are four main trails to climb Mt. Fuji. It would be our first time hiking Fuji, so we chose the Yoshida Trail, which is the safest and most popular. It’s also easy to access from Tokyo, and has plenty of amenities. The route is around 9 miles round-trip (14.4 km), with over 4,800 feet (1463 m) of cumulative elevation gain.

We decided to make it an overnight so we could experience the sunrise. That requires waking up super early and climbing to the summit, which is supposed to be somewhat miserable…but we figured we’d be disappointed if we didn’t do it.

Scattered around Mt. Fuji are huts where guests can stay the night. Reservations are required, so we reserved spots at the Fujisan Hotel (located at the 8th Station), through Fuji Mountain Guides. This service was helpful because we were able to make our request online in English, and they booked the reservation for us.

Next, we needed transportation to Mt. Fuji, so we bought bus tickets from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station. We chose a bus with a restroom (not all buses have them) since the ride was around 2.5 hours. Two companies run buses from Shinjuku to Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station: Fujikyu and Keio. We made a reservation on a Keio bus through highwaybus.com for 6:45 a.m. The soonest we could make a reservation was around 30 days out.

We had planned our trip for early summer (the end of the rainy season) to avoid extreme crowding, so we knew there was a chance for storms. Other blogs were a good source for suggested gear. We already owned most of what we needed, but decided to purchase some heavier duty gloves and thermal base layers in case of cold or rainy weather.

Sadly, we had to call off our hike due to Typhoon Prapiroon. There’s not much you can do about 56 mph (90 km/h) winds, driving rain, and mudslides. Safety is our priority, and we try to remain flexible.

Tokyo to Mt. Fuji

Prior to attempting to hike Mt. Fuji, we stayed in Asakusa in Tokyo. Around 6:15 a.m., we took the admirably efficient train system to Shinjuku Station, then walked to the Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal above the JR Shinjuku Station. On the way, we made a quick stop at FamilyMart in the bus terminal for onigiri and sandwiches.

At 6:45, we boarded the bus and began navigating the streets of Tokyo. The bus was less than half full. I blame the rainy and dreary weather. We knew there was a possibility we’d have to cancel our hike, but we still had hope at this point. We kept an eye on the forecast, but it wasn’t very promising.

The bus ride was mostly uneventful, and we started to ascend Mt. Fuji. Hikers can start at the base of the mountain too, but we figured it would be challenging enough from the halfway point.

Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station

At 9:20 a.m., the bus arrived at the 5th station. It was pouring rain, windy, cold, and generally yucky. I almost didn’t want to get off the bus. But we hopped off, grabbed our backpacks from underneath the bus, and ran to the closest shelter we could find – a souvenir shop and lodge called Fujikyu Unjokaku.

As we pondered our next steps, we chatted with some other hikers, particularly about the inclement weather. Everyone seemed to be wondering what to do next. We stalled a bit by using the restroom and getting lunch. All public restrooms on the mountain cost 100 yen (we brought change).

Upstairs, the restaurant area was crowded with people who seemingly just finished their hike. We talked with a couple people who descended Mt. Fuji earlier that day and said it was miserable. They also mentioned that the weather had been perfect the previous day.

We ordered tempura udon and hoto, both of which were surprisingly delicious given the lack of other options. After we ate, we put on our rain gear, and decided to check the visitor information center. There, we were promptly told that hikers were not allowed to climb due to the current weather conditions.

So that was that. There were high winds, along with warnings about flooding and mud slides. Japan was hit hard by the typhoon, and there were even some deaths. Southern Japan was impacted the most, and we were fortunate to be further north.

We were disappointed (though not surprised), as were other hikers. Summitting Fuji is a lifelong dream for some. I was, however, relieved that we wouldn’t be hiking in those conditions. So, now what?

Our plan had been to travel to Lake Kawaguchi the following day, after completing our hike. We briefly discussed staying the night at the 5th Station, but instead decided we would travel to Lake Kawaguchi a day early so we could maximize our time and enjoyment on our international trip. The visitor center staff called Fujisan Hotel (our mountain hut) to cancel that reservation for us.

Before leaving, we explored the 5th station. We checked out the gift shops, then found Fujisan Komitake Shrine behind some buildings. The shrine was under construction, and even with the rain and wind, workers were doing some repairs.

We explored the picturesque temple, and got our goshuin stamped. In another small gift shop, we talked with a few employees, who kindly gave us some snacks. After looking around, we went to the bus booth and purchased our tickets to Kawaguchiko Station. The cost was 1,540 yen per person for a 45 minute ride.

Lake Kawaguchi – Day 1

Upon arriving in the lakeside town, the bus dropped us off at Kawaguchiko Station. We only had our backpacks with us. Our other luggage had been sent via Takkyubin to Kasuitei Ooya (花水庭おおや), the hotel where we planned to stay in Lake Kawaguchi.

At Kawaguchiko Station, we found a visitor center where the employees spoke English. They were able to book us a room at Katsuitei Ooya for that night. The only room available was a Japanese-style room – it was more expensive, but we were excited to stay there. The following night we’d have to switch to the western-style room we’d reserved previously.

The walk from the station to Katsuitei Ooya is only about 15 minutes. Conveniently, the hotel also provides a shuttle from the station, so we decide to take it. After a short drive, we checked in and went to our room – and were pleasantly surprised. Our Japanese-style room was spacious, and had a balcony with a gorgeous view of Lake Kawaguchi.

We were excited to explore Fujikawaguchiko. Afterall, the town is located inside a National Park. This concept intrigued us, since it’s quite different from National Parks in the United States. Thankfully, it wasn’t raining in town, but views of Mt. Fuji were non-existent. However, the sky and town were incredibly beautiful and serene.

Near our hotel, we browsed a row of small gift shops. We passed Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway which takes visitors to an observation deck near the peak of Mount Tenjo called Tenjoyama Park. Given the weather, we were unlikely to have a view of Mt. Fuji, but Travis and I agreed to check it out the following day (it was a must-do).

It was dinner time, so we searched online and found a tempura place called Fuji Tempura Idaten. It was a bit of a hike to get there, and it was some of the best tempura we’ve had. If you’re visiting Lake Kawaguchi, we highly recommend it – especially the asparagus tempura. The area is also well known for hoto, a thick miso stew with wide noodles. We planned to try that the following evening.

Lake Kawaguchi – Day 2

The next morning, we had a rather elaborate breakfast in the dining room at Katsuitei Ooya. We were looking to immerse ourselves in Japanese culture, so we wore our yukata. We weren’t sure if others would be wearing those or street clothes, but it was about 50/50. And they were pretty comfy too!

Next, we walked to Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway. It was raining on and off, but we were excited. After purchasing our tickets, we boarded the gondola. The views of the lake, mountains, and town were jaw-dropping. It was so gorgeous, even on a day with thick clouds, I doubt there is ever a bad view from there. Taking a slow day to explore is not our usual, and Lake Kawaguchi was the perfect place to do that.

At the top are multiple little attractions, as well as a gift shop. Scattered throughout the observation area are statues of a tanuki and a rabbit. These characters represent the Japanese fable Kachi-Kachi Yama – how a rabbit gets revenge against an evil tanuki…it’s actually a pretty dark story. Naturally, there’s also a small shrine to rabbits.

The clouds were so thick that we didn’t have a view of Mt. Fuji’s summit – but we could see the base. There are a few hiking trails up there, too. One is a long dayhike to Mount Mitsutoge (~6 hours round-trip), which unfortunately we didn’t know about at the time. Instead, we chose a much shorter 20 minute round-trip hike to the top of Mount Tenjo. The trail goes through woods and leads to a small shrine. We doubled back and took the ropeway down.

Once back down, we happened by Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine, and noticed a hiking trail that started there as well. We later learned that it leads up to Mount Tenjo and is called the “Hydrangea Route” since native hydrangea bloom there from mid-July to late-August. It was too late for us to hike it, but we were impressed with the hiking and walking options in the area. We also found a small shrine near a neighborhood.

The neighborhood itself was a peaceful, cute residential area with gardens in the back. We enjoyed getting a glimpse of the vernacular architecture and everyday Japanese life. It seemed like we often had a more authentic cultural experience when we got away from the hustle and bustle of the major cities and popular tourist attractions.

We were getting hungry, and we wanted to check out Hoto Fudo, a well known restaurant near Kawaguchiko Station. For whatever reason, they had closed early. Bummer. We searched online and found another hoto place called Koshu Hoto Kosaku, which was a 25-minute walk from our hotel. That wasn’t going to dissuade us though. The experience was worth the walk, as the food was delicious, and the ambiance was perfect. There are low tables, and it’s a huge space which we had almost entirely to ourselves.

Kawaguchiko – Day 3

The next day, we took a train from Lake Kawaguchi to Kamikochi (上高地, Kamikōchi), which is located in Chubu Sangaku National Park. We were ready for our next adventure, a three-day backpacking route up to Yarigatake. But the typhoon was still in full force throughout much of Japan, so once again we weren’t sure what to expect. Thankfully, Yarigatake would be much more successful than our Mt. Fuji climb.

Links

• Mount Fuji (富士山, Fujisan)
  • Fuji Mountain Guides – Reservations (English) – Third party service that will reserve Fuji mountain huts for guests
  • Highwaybus.com (English) – Shinjuku to Mt. Fuji Bus Reservations
  • Official Site for Climbing Mt. Fuji (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Climbing Mt Fuji (English)
  • Official Site for Climbing Mt. Fuji (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Climbing Mt Fuji (English)
  • Fuji Mountain Guides – Recommended Gear (English)
  • Gary J Wolff Climbing Mt. Fuji FAQ (English)
  • Fujikyu Unjokaku (English) – Souvenir shop, restaurant, and lodging at Mt. Fuji Subaru 5th Station
• Lake Kawaguchi (河口湖, Kawaguchiko)
  • Kasuitei Ooya (English) – Ryokan where we stayed in Kawaguchiko
  • Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (English)
  • Japan-Guide: Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (English)
  • Tenjoyama Park (English) – at the top of Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway
  • Fuji Tempura Idaten (Japanese, English translation available)
  • Koshu Hoto Kosaku (Japanese)

Places

• Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal | Japan, 〒151-0051 Tokyo, Shibuya City, 千駄ヶ谷５丁目２４ 55
• Mt. Fuji Subaru Line – 5th Station | Japan, 〒401-0320 Yamanashi, Minamitsuru District, Narusawa, 富士山五合目
• Fuji San Hotel | Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi 403-0005, Japan
• Kawaguchiko Station | 3641 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Kasuitei Ooya | 4025 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Tenjoyama Gokoku Shrine | 4213 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan
• Koshu Houtou Kosaku | 1638-1 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0301, Japan

Interactive Map

The post Exploring Mount Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi appeared first on KTNPBlog.

We don’t go backpacking too often in the middle of summer (travels aside). But we had a free weekend, and we wanted to test out some new gear and get in shape for an upcoming trip to Glacier NP. So it was back to Shenandoah National Park for a quick one-nighter.

Initially we wanted to hike Jeremy’s Run, one of our favorite backpacking routes in the park. In reading some trip reports, it seemed like the trail could be laden with poison ivy in the summer though, which was a no-go for a fairly sensitive individual like myself. Instead, we decided on a 15.2 mile loop trail in the central district. The loop would go up Nicholson Hollow, past White Rocks, and return on Hannah Run Trail.

Planning

While we hadn’t done this exact loop before, White Rocks is a special place for us – it was the first place we ever went backpacking. It was only a one-night ~5.0 mile round trip from Skyline Drive, but we learned a lot and had a great time. This trip would be longer and more strenuous, at 15.2 miles and 3,742 feet cumulative elevation gain/loss. White Rocks Trail features a few views, and a spur trail leads to a waterfall and cave. We planned to camp near the intersection with that spur trail.

As mentioned, I tested out three pieces of equipment on this hike: Brooks Cascadia trail runners, a Sony a6400 camera, and an REI Flash 55 ultralight backpack. All three items were for slightly different uses compared with my current set of gear, which at the time was a pair of Vasque hiking boots, a Sony RX100 IV camera, and an Osprey Atmos 65 AG backpack.

The route we chose starts on the east side of the park boundary. The closest parking is the Old Rag Parking Lot, which fills up early on weekends. A few days before the trip, I called Shenandoah to ask a few questions. Among other things, the ranger informed me that the park may someday require the use of bear canisters, due to backpackers hanging bear bags incorrectly. That was certainly a surprise to hear! We’ll see if it happens.

Day 1 – Nicholson Hollow Trail

We arrived at the Old Rag Parking Lot at 8:30 a.m. on a Saturday. There was plenty of space, but it was filling up fast. First, we requested a backcountry permit at the ranger booth. Then we hit the… road? If you’ve hiked Old Rag prior to 2020, you’re familiar with walking along Nethers Road for a bit before you reach any trailheads. As of 2020, a new parking lot was built closer to the trailheads, across the street from Nicholson Hollow Trail. But in 2019, we had to walk along the road to get to Nicholson Hollow Trail, which splits off before Old Rag Trail.

A trail intersection marker pointed us down a gravel road off to the right. At the end of the road is a gate, and to its right is the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. The first half mile of the trail goes through private property before entering the park. After about one minute on the trail, we reached our first stream crossing, across Brokenback Run. Nicely laid out rocks provided easy stepping stones. But it had rained recently, so the rocks were wet and the stream was flowing fast and high. Luckily we had our trekking poles to help us balance.

I went first, and Kristin followed. As I reached the middle of the stream, my foot slipped and plunged into the chilly water. Of course. My other foot held onto a rock and I pulled myself out easily, but my shoe, sock, and foot were soaked. It turned out to be a good test of the trail runners. Even with the humidity, the shoes drained and gradually dried as I hiked – they were mostly dry by the time we camped later that night.

Shortly after the first stream crossing was an almost identical second one over Hughes River. Two guys crossed from the opposite direction as we waited. They had parked at Skyline Drive, and were taking Nicholson Hollow Trail to get to Old Rag. That’s one way to do it. When it was our turn to cross, I made sure my footing was secure and we both got across without incident.

After crossing, we continued hiking with Hughes River on our left. Occasional paths led out to the river for a better view. There were waterfalls, rapids, and swimming holes along the way – good opportunities to play around with my Sony a6400 camera. Nicholson Hollow is an enjoyable trail, with gradual elevation gain and a peaceful river next door. Along the way, we crossed into Shenandoah National Park.

After 1.2 miles on Nicholson Hollow Trail, we came to an intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail. This area has several backcountry campsites, though it was too early in the day for us to make camp. Another 0.4 miles later, we turned right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail.

Day 1 – Hazel Mountain and River Trails

While we really enjoyed Nicholson Hollow Trail, we really didn’t enjoy Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. It’s a lot of uphill gain, and the trail is overgrown, narrow, and a bit of a slog. To our left was Short Mountain and to our right, Hot Mountain. For 2.1 miles we climbed up, taking a break for lunch about halfway through.

Upon reaching the intersection with Hazel Mountain Trail, we took a short break. While resting, I looked down at my shin and saw a small insect – a tiny deer tick. Oh, that’s why we don’t hike in Shenandoah as often in the summer. Thankfully, it hadn’t attached yet and I shook it off. After our break, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail.

Hazel Mountain Trail isn’t too interesting, but it’s a good workout as it ascends and descends. After 1.2 miles, we turned right onto Hazel River Trail, which descends 700 feet over 1.8 miles. It was also terribly overgrown. Worried about ticks, I made sure to cover my legs despite the heat and humidity. It was probably my least favorite trail on this route.

Day 1 – White Rocks Trail

Eventually, in what took longer than I thought it should, we reached the junction with White Rocks Trail. We passed a few campsites, crossed Hazel River, and began ascending steadily. It’s a tough ascent initially, but eventually we got to a ridgeline that goes up and down as it spans four summits.

There are limited views along this section. If you can find them, faint side trails on the left lead to rock outcroppings that offer better views. These scenic vistas are considered to be the “white rocks.” Unfortunately for us, we didn’t do a great job of finding them – we bushwhacked a bit, but we may have missed some more obvious areas. Hopefully, next time we’ll do a better job of locating the viewpoints.

After 1.4 miles, we reached the intersection with the Cave/Falls Spur Trail, near where we planned to camp. Years ago, on our first backpacking trip, we stayed at a fairly large and private campsite with a huge rock. Unfortunately, this time it was occupied. So we grabbed another nearby site that seemed comparable, minus the huge rock.

It was nice to take a break and unload our gear. So far, I had really enjoyed using my ultralight REI Flash backpack – it’s super comfortable and definitely weighs less than my old pack. Of course, I plan to keep them both. We set up our tent and grabbed our water filtration supplies.

Day 1 – Cave/Falls Spur Trail

We headed down Cave/Falls Spur Trail, a steep tenth of a mile. The closest water source, Hazel River, is at the bottom, along with beautiful waterfall and cave. As we started to descend, two guys came up and said that the falls and cave “aren’t worth it.” We’ve been there before, and we disagree. Plus, we needed water.

At the bottom of the steep hill, we saw a pool of water with a tiny waterfall. After walking upstream along Hazel River, we spotted a second waterfall, known as Hazel Falls. The waterfall is small, pretty, and secluded. On the opposite side of the trail is a cave that goes back about 10 to 15 feet. Even though it’s shallow, it’s interesting and fun to explore.

Both the falls and cave are picturesque, so we experimented with my new wide-angle camera lens. After snapping way too many photos, we began filtering some water. Suddenly, it started raining gently for about 30 seconds. It cooled us off, and foreshadowed what was to come.

Later that evening, I walked along White Rocks Trail to see if there were any other campsites near us. There were, and I spotted an attempt at a “bear bag.” Except it was just a plastic grocery bag tied to a small branch, right next to a tree trunk, about five feet off the ground. Flashback to the park ranger who said Shenandoah may require bear canisters in the future. Now I see why. C’mon people, hang your bear bags properly.

Back in the tent, we did a tick check. This time we found a deer tick attached near my waist. Ugh, I hate ticks. We removed it, then headed to sleep. We drifted off to the sounds of rain, wind, and thunder.

Day 2 – White Rocks Trail

Around 6:45 a.m., we woke up and the rain had stopped, so we were able to make breakfast. Usually we do oatmeal with nuts, seeds, and fruit, but this time we shared a Mountain House hash dehydrated meal. It tasted pretty good, but we missed the dense calories we get from the oatmeal. We packed up and headed west on White Rocks Trail.

White Rocks Trail ascends initially before leveling out. It’s quite narrow in places, and Kristin was in front of me. I saw her step over a snake, and I asked her if she noticed it. “No…” she said, slightly stunned. I stopped with the snake between us. “It’s okay,” I said. “I don’t think it’s poisonous.”

The snake poked its head out onto the path, and just sat there. Kristin and I both backed away to give the snake its space; it immediately slithered across the trail and was gone. Later we looked it up based on photos I took. It was a copperhead…so much for my theory.

After that excitement, we turned left onto Hazel Mountain Trail. We crossed Hazel River and saw a neat pickerel frog (also poisonous) nearby. As we continued, Kristin and I chatted about all the wildlife we’ve seen while hiking, and lamented never having seen a black bear in Shenandoah in the four years that we’ve been hiking there together.

Shortly after, we heard a noise off to the side, and a black bear stepped onto Hazel Mountain Trail about 100 feet in front of us. “Bear,” I said softly, I didn’t have time to say anything else. It glanced at us, then quietly continued across the trail. The encounter lasted only seconds. I didn’t even have time to get my camera out, but it was exhilarating to see a black bear in the wild.

Day 2 – Hannah Run Trail

At the intersection with Catlett Spur Trail, we continued straight on Hazel Mountain Trail. It’s a muddy, uphill climb and we didn’t notice anything special beyond a few yellow Clintonia wildflowers (which weren’t flowering this time of year). After 1.1 miles that seemed much longer, we turned right onto Catlett Mountain Trail, then immediately left onto Hannah Run Trail. There, we ran into some fellow hikers for the first time that day.

The segment of our hike on Hannah Run Trail was 2.4 miles, with steep ups and downs and a few stream crossings. Along the way were a few remnants left by occupants of the area before it became a park: a fireplace and an old stone wall. We ate lunch on the trail, and I found tick #3 on me; thankfully, Kristin hadn’t found any. At a few points near the end of Hannah Run Trail, it looked like there would be some good views, but the trees always seemed to block them. There would likely be more visibility in spring or fall.

About a half mile away from returning to Nicholson Hollow Trail, I felt a popping sensation under my knee, and it started hurting like hell. I could barely move without grimacing, and I had no idea what went wrong. Somehow, we made it to Nicholson Hollow, and found a campsite where I took a break. It helped a bit, and I managed to make it back to our car.

At home, we did a thorough tick check, then showered. That’s when Kristin spotted a tiny deer tick on her leg. Even after checking AND showering! We quickly removed it, and remained vigilant for the next 24 hours or so. As for my knee, it continued hurting for the next week, so I saw my doctor and was told I strained my hamstring. I headed to a physical therapist so I could survive our upcoming trip to Glacier National Park.

Now for my opinion on the gear I tried out. The Brooks Cascadia trail runners, while not having the same amount of grip as my boots, were definitely lighter and dried quickly. The REI Flash lightweight backpack was also a winner; in the end it was more comfortable than my Osprey Atmos AG. We’ll see if that’s still the case with continued use. And while the Sony a6400 took great photos, I realized that I hate changing lenses, so that one is still to be determined.

Overall, the hike was enjoyable. Our favorite sections were Nicholson Hollow, White Rocks, and the Cave/Falls Trail. There are some cozy campsites, though it was disheartening to see how some campers hung their food and other scented items when there are bears nearby. The wildlife we saw also made the trip rather memorable. Spring and fall are probably ideal seasons for this route – if you go in the summer, make sure to stay on the lookout for ticks.

Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow

Date: Saturday, June 29, 2019 – Sunday, June 30, 2019
Type: 1 Night Backpacking Lollipop Loop
Total Distance: 15.2 miles (24.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 3742 feet (1141 m)

• Day 1:
  • Distance: 8.2 miles (13.2 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 2650 feet (808 m) gain, 1538 feet (469 m) loss
  • Time: 6.5 hours, which includes lunch and occasional breaks
  • Overnight: A backcountry campsite near the intersection of White Rocks Trail and Cave/Falls Spur Trail
• Day 2:
  • Distance: 7.0 miles (11.3 km)
  • Overall Cumulative Gain and Loss: 1092 feet (333 m) gain, 2204 feet (671 m) loss
  • Time: 5.5 hours which includes lunch and breaks

Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate
Crowds: Low
Water: Multiple streams and waterfalls
Highlights: Views, wildlife, history, waterfalls
Directions to Old Rag Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From the Old Rag parking lot, head 0.1 miles west on Nethers Road. At the fork, turn right onto a gravel road (there’s a trail marker at the fork). After 170 feet you’ll see the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead on your right. Start your hike here. Two stream crossings will come in short succession after hiking 125 feet.
• 1.2 mi – At the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail, continue straight.
• 1.7 mi – Turn right onto Hot Mountain-Short Mountain Trail. This trail has the steepest incline on the route.
• 3.8 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 4.3 mi – Continue straight on Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Catlett Mountain Trail
• 4.8 mi – Continue on yellow-blazed Hazel Mountain Trail at the intersection with Sam’s Ridge Trail
• 5.0 mi – Turn right onto Hazel River Trail, which will descend steeply
• 6.4 mi – Turn left onto White Rocks Trail. About 0.1 miles in, you’ll cross Hazel River and start ascending. The trail follows a ridgeline that goes up and down four summits.
• 8.2 mi – Intersection with Cave/Falls Spur Trail, which leads down to Hazel Falls. There are several campsites in the area, which is where we stayed. Go down Cave/Falls Spur Trail to a water source, Hazel Falls, and a cave.
• 9.3 mi – Turn left onto Hazel Mountain Trail
• 9.8 mi – Turn right onto blue-blazed Catlett Spur Trail
• 10.9 mi – Turn right onto Catlett Mountain Trail and go 230 feet, then turn left onto Hannah Run Trail.
• 13.4 mi – Turn left onto Nicholson Hollow Trail
• 13.6 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Hot Mountain-Short Mountain. At this point, you’ve completed the “loop” part of the hike.
• 14.0 mi – Continue straight on Nicholson Hollow Trail at the intersection with Corbin Mountain Trail.
• 15.2 mi – Back at the Nicholson Hollow Trailhead. Continue back up the gravel road to Nethers Road. Head left 0.1 miles to the Old Rag Parking Lot.

Places

• Old Rag Parking on Nethers Road| 38.5721462, -78.294921
• Nicholson Hollow Trailhead | 38.5731685,-78.2958718

Maps

• Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow Trail Map (KTNP)
• Old Rag Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Shenandoah NP Tick Information (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Backpacking White Rocks via Nicholson Hollow appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Surprisingly, this was our first hike in the southern section of Shenandoah National Park. Before this, the furthest south we had travelled in the park was Bearfence Mountain. Most of the well known hikes are in the central and northern districts. And while we consider Shenandoah our “home park,” driving there from Northern Virginia can take a while.

We spent a weekend at Big Meadows Lodge, and planned to hike Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail, one of the most popular routes in the south district. The hike includes a section of the Appalachian Trail, forming a 9.8 mile circuit. The combination of trails, which circumnavigates Rock Mountain, is also commonly called Riprap Hollow.

An early start is crucial, especially since the trail is relatively long and strenuous. The loop starts along Skyline Drive, with parking options at mile markers 90 and 92. The lot at mile 90 is the official “Riprap Parking Lot,” while the one at mile 92 is called “Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot.”

Appalachian Trail

Staying at the lodge was a fun new experience for us – and it allowed us to get to the trailhead in just over an hour. As we headed down Skyline Drive, we enjoyed the ambience and scenic overlooks. Eventually, we came to the small parking lot at mile marker 90 – which was totally full. So we drove two more miles to 92, where there were still some parking spaces.

We planned to hike the loop counter-clockwise, starting on the Appalachian Trail. Then we’d take Riprap Trail to Wildcat Ridge Trail, which leads back to the trailhead. The loop could also be hiked clockwise, and we’ll probably try that next time. Going counter-clockwise allows you to arrive at the viewpoints sooner, but you’ll have a steeper ascent on Wildcat Ridge at the end of the route. Hiking clockwise allows you to hit a swimming hole earlier, and you’ll ascend Riprap Trail more gradually.

Our route started on Wildcat Ridge Trail, where we hiked for a few minutes before turning right (northbound) on the AT. This loop is also a good option for backpacking. But the week we were there, signs were posted notifying hikers that backcountry camping was closed due to black bear activity.

This part of the AT is relatively flat, and there were occasional views through the trees to our left (west). It was June, so we only saw a couple blooming wildflowers – mainly rattlesnake hawkweed. On a log, we also saw a huge fishing spider. I’m not really a fan of spiders, but this one was interesting to see. Mountain laurel lined the trail, though it had mostly finished flowering, so we only glimpsed a couple of white flowers.

Riprap Trail – Views

After hiking for 2.8 miles, we reached the Riprap trailhead along Skyline Drive at mile marker 90. A short distance later, we turned left onto Riprap Trail. There are two viewpoints that we wanted to check out along the trail, Calvary Rocks and Chimney Rock. But first, we made our way through some switchbacks and passed by a large talus field.

Shortly after, we reached our first viewpoint along the right side of the trail near Calvary Rocks. Looking northwest from the viewpoint, we saw the Shenandoah Valley and towns below. As we continued on the trail, we saw some rock formations on our left – the true Calvary Rocks. We didn’t have time to explore, but you could go off-trail and scramble around.

As we continued, we quickly came to the next viewpoint – Chimney Rock. As we gazed out again to the northwest, we thought that this view was better than the one at Calvary Rocks. For a shorter hike, this is a good spot to turn around, but we kept going. The views to our right continued as we followed the quickly narrowing trail along a ridgeline.

We gradually began descending the rocky trail to Cold Spring Hollow. Wild azalea and mountain laurel were all around us – unfortunately no longer flowering. We also found blueberry bushes beside the trail, which we hadn’t expected. Most of the berries weren’t quite ripe, but we found a couple that were and snacked on them.

Riprap Trail – Water Features

Eventually, we were hiking parallel to a small stream that flows into Meadow Run. The stream moves through a pretty gorge area with a few small waterfalls. After that, we encountered a few posts that read “No Camping.” We believe these are old and can be disregarded. There’s nothing about this area being closed to camping on Shenandoah’s website, and a couple campsites are scattered around.

From here, the trail crosses the stream and follows it for a good ways. About 0.3 miles after the gorge area, we came to a stunning swimming hole. We relaxed for a bit, watching the stream gently cascade into the pool. We weren’t prepared to go swimming, but a couple of other hikers were. I would love to come back sometime to take a dip.

After leaving the swimming hole, the trail became a bit harder to follow, as there was a side trail leading to an old shelter. The shelter was removed when the area became a wilderness, but we found some signs pointing to its former site. We made sure to look for the blue blazes, and once we were on the right track we quickly made it to the next intersection. Riprap Trail continues to the boundary of Shenandoah NP, but we turned left onto Wildcat Ridge Trail to head back to the parking lot.

Wildcat Ridge Trail

Crossing the stream one last time, we started to ascend. While Wildcat Ridge trail isn’t too long, it has the steepest elevation gain of the loop. We had a constant uphill climb, with a few switchbacks, for about 2.6 miles until we reached the intersection with the Appalachian Trail. There were a few views on the way, but nothing too impressive.

At the intersection of Wildcat Ridge Trail and the AT, we spotted an eastern cottontail rabbit – though we see them more frequently in our yard than while hiking. From there, it was a quick walk back to the parking lot. We climbed into the car and drove back to Big Meadows Lodge, where we had a delicious dinner as we watched the sun set.

This was a great hike, and we know we’ll be back again. Views and water features meant there was a lot to see along the way. We recommend doing the full loop if you can, but if not, Chimney Rock is worth a visit. I wish the loop was closer to where we live so we could hike it more easily.

Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail

Date: Saturday, June 22, 2019
Type: Loop dayhike
Total Distance: 9.6 miles (15.5 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 2382 feet (726 m)
Time: 7 hours, including lunch and breaks
Trail Markings: White blazes for the AT, yellow for horse trails, and blue for everything else
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
Crowds: Low to moderate
Water: Various streams, creeks, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Multiple views, wildflowers, waterfall, swimming holes
Notes: This route can be done clockwise or counterclockwise.
Directions to Wildcat Ridge Parking (mile marker 92): Google Maps Directions
Directions to Riprap Parking (mile marker 90): Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• 0.0 mi – From Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot, begin on blue-blazed Wildcat Ridge Trail. If you parked at the Riprap Parking Lot, start at the 2.8 mile trail direction after taking the short spur trail from the parking lot to the AT.
• 0.1 mi – Turn right onto the white-blazed Appalachian Trail
• 2.8 mi – Continue straight on the AT, past the intersection with the trail that leads to Riprap Parking Lot.
• 3.2 mi – Turn left onto Riprap Trail
• 3.9 mi – Calvary Rocks Viewpoint
• 4.3 mi – Chimney Rock Viewpoint
• 6.3 mi – Swimming hole
• 6.9 mi – Turn left onto Wildcat Ridge Trail
• 9.5 mi – Continue straight on Wildcat Ridge Trail at the intersection with the Appalachian Trail
• 9.6 mi – Back at Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot

Places

• Riprap Parking Lot | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 90
• Wildcat Ridge Parking Lot | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 92
• Calvary Rocks Viewpoint | 38.1871442,-78.7732787
• Chimney Rock Viewpoint | 38.1865942, -78.7788787

Maps

• Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Riprap Area Road and Trail Map (NPS)

Links

• Calvary Rocks (Summit Post)
• Chimney Rock (Summit Post)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

The post Riprap and Wildcat Ridge Loop Trail appeared first on KTNPBlog.

Overview

A little known fact: Crater Lake is the fifth oldest national park in the United States. It was created in 1902 after a decades-long effort by William Gladstone Steel, who first visited in 1885. Fifteen years prior, he had read about the lake in a newspaper article – that his lunch was wrapped in. Steel was the driving force behind creating the park, and the main visitor center is named after him.

Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States, and the ninth deepest in the world. It was formed after a volcano, Mount Mazama, erupted in 5700 BC. The eruption caused the volcano to collapse, forming a large caldera. Over time, the caldera filled with water from snowmelt, creating the lake.

Assumedly, most people visit the park for its eponymous lake. That’s why we came – but we left with a greater understanding of the wider ecosystem. The park is not just a lake, but also the surrounding rivers, mountains, and volcanic features. We focused on hiking (and backpacking – though that didn’t pan out due to weather), but fishing, biking, and skiing are also popular.

Guide to Best Activities in Crater Lake National Park

1. Crater Lake Boat Tour – Taking a tour of Crater Lake was one of the highlights of our trip. Experiencing the geological features and vibrant blue color of the water up close was one of the most memorable parts of our trip.

   

2. Mount Scott – A hike to the highest point in the park, with panoramic views of Crater Lake. Our visit happened to coincide with a butterfly migration that only occurs every 5-6 years, which was both surprising and stunning.

   

3. Boundary Springs – An off the beaten path type of hike. This trail features no views of Crater Lake, but the forest, streams, and wildflowers make up for it. We saw where the Rogue River begins, as it emanates from the Earth.

   

4. Crater Lake Lodge – A beautiful hotel complete with restaurant, adjacent to Crater Lake. It’s the only lodging (other than campgrounds) in the park. The view, friendly staff, and easy access to hiking trails make this a special place to stay, or just visit as a day trip.

   

5. Garfield Peak – This trail provides some of the best views of Crater Lake. It was one of our favorite hikes in the park, even though we didn’t reach the top due to snow.

   

Things we wish we did (“Things to do next time”)

• Wizard Island – We imagine this is an epic place to go hiking. We tried our best to get to the island, but shuttles weren’t currently running due to maintenance issues. This is at the top of our list next time we visit.

  

  Crater Peak & Union Peak – Two hikes we wanted to do, but didn’t have time for. Both are located on the south side of the lake and are a bit longer than other dayhikes in the park.

  

  Backcountry Camping – Weather prevented us from doing a backpacking trip this time, but it’s on the list for our next visit. We had planned to do Bald Crater Loop, but a trip up to Union Peak would also make for a nice overnight.

  

Crater Lake Mini Adventures Guide

On our trip to Crater Lake National Park, we visited several places that didn’t get a full post, but are worth mentioning.

• Bert Creek & Sphagnum Bog – This particular adventure was all Travis’s idea. We drove into Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest, to Bert Creek Trail. We hiked along the trail into the northwest corner of Crater Lake National Park until we intersected with Bald Crater Loop Trail. After searching for the bog, it turned out you have to bushwhack to find it – and the amount of mosquitoes (even with repellent) dissuaded us enough to head back. Maybe some day we’ll try again (if Travis can convince Kristin).

  

• Lady of the Woods Trail – This short trail goes around Steel Visitor Center, and we didn’t like it. Its claim to fame is a stone sculpture of a woman, made in 1917 by Earl Russell Bush. There are nearby streams, but most of all there are tons of mosquitoes. The trail weaves around park buildings. It doesn’t offer much, though there is a trail guide you can pick up that corresponds to numbered posts along the way.

  

• Phantom Ship – An overlook at the intersection of Pinnacles Road and East Rim Drive offers a clear view of this rocky island in Crater Lake. If you use your imagination, it resembles a sailing ship. The overlook is easily accessible, but you can skip this if you go on a boat tour, since that gives you a closer view.

  

• Sinnot Memorial Overlook – Near Rim Village, on the south side of Crater Lake, is the Sinnot Memorial Observation Station. Built into the cliffside below Crater Lake’s rim, it offers gorgeous views and a small museum to explore. It’s located down a long flight of stairs, about 0.8 miles round trip. If you’re short on time, this is a good place to learn about the park.

  

• Whitewater Rafting the North Umpqua River – This one isn’t in Crater Lake National Park, but we’re mentioning it anyway. We booked a whitewater rafting trip along the North Umpqua River through Ouzel Outfitters. We drove about an hour and a half northwest of the park to the put-in. The trip went through numerous class II and III rapids, with one class IV near the end. Our guides were great, and we had a blast.

  

Weather

Crater Lake is filled only by snowmelt and rainfall, so naturally a ton of snow falls in the winter. The park is open through the winter, but we prefer warmer weather. July and August are the warmest months, and have the lowest chance of rainfall (though it rained during our trip in July). September might be ideal; it’s still warm-ish and usually too early for snow, so every trail will likely be open. October is a possibility too, but snow could start falling by then.

Visitation Statistics

Not surprisingly, visitation has increased at Crater Lake in the past decade. Nor is it surprising that July and August are the most popular months. If you can swing it, we suggest visiting in September to avoid crowds.

Other Crater Lake NP Tips

• Our plans changed constantly during our visit, so we had to be flexible, due to weather, remaining snow, and concessionaire issues.
• Along the same lines, be aware that some trails don’t become accessible until late July or mid-August due to snow.
• Book the lodge and any boat tours/shuttles as early as you can (and keep your fingers crossed).
• Check out Cleetwood Cove Trail, even if you can’t snag boat tour tickets. You’ll still have a chance to swim in the lake, and even jump in if you’re feeling brave.
• Avoid Annie Creek Restaurant (terrible food) and Rim Village Cafe (overpriced), unless desperate.
• If you have the flexibility, you might check out Lost Creek Campground instead of Mazama Campground. It’s first-come, first-served, and significantly smaller than Mazama Campground. While we didn’t spend the night there, it seemed quiet.
• If your tire springs a leak, like ours did, you can refill it at the gas station in Mazama Campground. If that air filler breaks, like it did when we were there, the next closest station is in Diamond Lake. And if that breaks, well, you might be out of luck.

Our Itinerary

Our trip didn’t go as planned due to weather and the lake tours not running. So we tried to be flexible so we could see as much of the park as possible. It happens sometimes, so be prepared.

Original Itinerary

Day	Plan	Lodging
1	Arrive and explore	Mazama Campground
2	Cleetwood Cove Trail, Wizard Island and Boat Tour	Mazama Campground
3	Mount Scott Trail, Plaikni Falls Trail, Pinnacles Trail	Mazama Campground
4	Garfield Peak, Sinnot Memorial Overlook	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
5	North Umpqua Whitewater Rafting	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
6	Bald Crater Loop Backpacking	Backcountry Camping
7	Bald Crater Loop Backpacking	Mazama Campground
8	Boundary Springs Trail or Crater Lake Rim Trail

Actual Itinerary

Day	Plan	Lodging
1	Arrive and explore	Mazama Campground
2	Visitor Center, Lady of the Woods Trail	Mazama Campground
3	Boundary Springs Trail	Diamond Lake Motel
4	Bert Creek Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
5	North Umpqua Whitewater Rafting	Crater Lake Lodge - Lakeside Room
6	Mount Scott Trail, Plaikni Falls Trail, Pinnacles Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Parkside Room
7	Cleetwood Cove Trail, Boat Tour, Watchman Peak Trail	Crater Lake Lodge - Parkside Room
8	Garfield Peak Trail

Our Experiences

• Mazama Campground
• Boundary Springs Trail
• Mount Scott Trail
• Pinnacles & Plaikni Falls Trails
• Cleetwood Cove & Boat Tour
• Watchman Peak Trail
• Garfield Peak Trail
• Restaurants and Accommodations

Crater Lake Map Guide

Paper Maps

• Crater Lake National Park Map (National Geographic Trails Illustrated)

The post Best Hikes, Itinerary and Planning Guide appeared first on KTNPBlog.