Rose River in Shenandoah National Park has been on our to-do list for awhile.  Several attempts in the past floundered due to laziness or something coming up at the last minute.  We’d made it to Mathews Arm Campground for the weekend, so we took the opportunity to finally hike Rose River Loop.

The hike is located off Skyline Drive in Shenandoah’s Central District, across from Big Meadows Campground.  We decided to make a 5.1 mile loop that included Dark Hollow Falls.  We prefer loops over out-and-backs because we don’t have to hike a section more than once.  Dark Hollow Falls is a spectacular waterfall, and a short hike from Skyline Drive.  Naturally, it was very crowded when we visited.

Fisher’s Gap

There were two options for parking:  Fisher’s Gap or Dark Hollow Falls trailhead.  Fisher’s Gap is located around mile marker 49.5 on Skyline Drive; Dark Hollow Falls is at 50.5.  We decided on Fisher’s Gap, because it was the first parking lot we encountered as we drove south from Mathew’s Arm Campground.  We also figured Dark Hollow Falls parking lot would be full, since that section of trail is very popular (spoiler alert: it was).  For that reason I’d recommend parking at Fisher’s Gap.

We turned onto a dirt road near mile marker 49.5. The small parking lot was full, but this wasn’t Fisher’s Gap. It was access to Red Gate Fire Road, though a gate blocks vehicular access further in.  Next to it is Fisher’s Gap Overlook, a paved parking area that had plenty of available spots.  After parking, we walked south toward Skyline Drive, passing the Appalachian Trail on our right.  When we reached Skyline Drive we saw the crosswalk for Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail, where our hike began.

Horse Trail to Big Meadows

We walked on the right shoulder of Skyline Drive, and then headed uphill on the yellow-blazed Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Though we didn’t see any horses nor any…evidence of horses.  Only other hikers.  This trail leads to Big Meadows Campground in 1.4 miles, where we would cross Skyline Drive, then hike to Dark Hollow Falls.  After the waterfall, we would hike Rose River Trail, which leads back to Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap.

Trees surrounded us as we gradually ascended Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail. The sunlight streaming through the trees both relaxed and energized us. As we hiked, we noticed stone trail markers every ½ mile, which we assume are for horseback riders.

As we approached Big Meadows Campground, two deer – a doe and fawn – crashed through the underbrush.  We must have startled them, because once they spotted us, they slowed down and started browsing for food by the trail.  They’d clearly become accustomed to people. After observing the deer at a safe distance and giving them the right of way, we continued on.

The trail continued until we reached a stream crossing.  While easy for horses to cross, it’s a bit harder for humans.  Looking to our left we saw a bridge further downstream.  We followed the creek bank to the bridge, but we realized we didn’t need to cross it. If we had waded through the stream crossing, our route would have immediately turned left and then taken another left across the bridge, to where we now stood. So we were on Story of the Forest trail.

As we walked, Hogcamp Branch flowed on our right. It would later join with other streams and become Dark Hollow Falls.  A short 0.2 mile hike later, we got to Skyline Drive.  Across the road we saw the Dark Hollow Falls parking lot, jam-packed with cars.  We had seen a few hikers so far, but starting here we’d see more than we could count until we passed Dark Hollow Falls.

Dark Hollow Falls Trail

We crossed Skyline Drive and turned left onto blue-blazed Dark Hollow Falls Trail, which rapidly descends.  The entire way down to the main waterfall, 0.7 miles, Hogcamp Branch runs to our right.  There are a few places that are worth a stop and/or photo on the way down, with small cascades or swimming holes.  But we had to share them with lots of visitors, not that we expected to have it all to ourselves.

The trail was wet and muddy from rain the previous day.  It’s also rocky and steep in places, but otherwise manageable.  The return trip would be more of a challenge due to the incline.  We reached the upper falls overlook, and looked out over the wooden fence.  Many visitors trudged past the upper falls, without stopping.  They are worth a look, but you can get closer to the even more dramatic lower falls.

Dark Hollow Falls flows down multiple levels over 70 vertical feet.  It’s been a rainy summer this year (2018), so the volume of water was impressive.  We snapped some photos from a distance as we waited…and waited…for other groups to take their close-ups and selfies. Finally it was our turn, so we quickly captured the falls before another park visitor could jump in front of us.

Before long, we moved on and were glad to leave the bulk of people behind.  We wanted to eat lunch, but it definitely would not be at Dark Hollow Falls.  Most hikers retrace their steps here and go back up Dark Hollow Falls Trail.  Not us, we continue going down and Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends at Rose River Fire Road.  At the fire road, we turned right and crossed Hogcamp Branch via a bridge.

As we crossed the bridge, we saw a peaceful waterfall on the right.  It seemed like a nice place to stop and eat lunch.  But as we sat down, a large and boisterous group of boy scouts stopped to take a break here, too.  So we left, in search of a quieter lunch spot.  Right after the bridge, we turned left onto Rose River Loop Trail.  For a shorter loop from Fisher’s Gap, we could have also made a route with Rose River Loop Trail and Rose River Fire Road, though this route skips Dark Hollow Falls.

Rose River Loop Trail

We continued our descent with Hogcamp Branch on our left. Rose River Loop Trail is less steep than Dark Hollow Falls Trail, but slick rock, mud, and water made the trail slippery.  Trekking poles were helpful on this section.  The trail was less crowded than Dark Hollow Falls, though we ran into a few other groups.

Soon we found what we were looking for: a large rock by the stream where we could have lunch.  We took a break and enjoyed the sounds of the water rushing by as we ate.  Once satiated, we continued our hike along the gurgling stream. There are no big waterfalls on this section, but it’s pleasant with small waterfalls and cascades. 

0.8 miles after Rose River Fire Road, we reached a picturesque bridge that goes across Hogcamp Branch.  Soon after the bridge, we ran into an intermittent stream that we need to cross. Since there had been so much rain, this stream was flowing strong, but we got across without any trouble.

At this point, the trail finally starts to head uphill with Rose River on our right.  The initial incline was a bit of a shock to our systems and we were slow to make progress.  But once in a rhythm, we made good time up to Rose River Falls.  The waterfall itself is 67 feet high, only three feet less than Dark Hollow Falls.  To my eyes though, it’s not as impressive.  At the base of the falls were a few people that had hiked off trail and were outrageously loud and screaming. It diminished our enjoyment of the waterfall a bit.  We would have lingered more if it weren’t for them.  We continued our uphill hike and eventually left behind Rose River when the trail veered west.

After 0.7 miles, we reached an intersection and were back on Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail.  Only half a mile to go.  We passed an older couple going the opposite way.  They asked if it was worth it.  Assuming they meant Rose River Falls, I said definitely!  I silently hoped the loud people would be gone by the time they got there.

Skyland-Big Meadows Horse Trail intersects with Rose River Fire Road.  We crossed the road, the horse trail continuing on the other side.  And a few minutes later we were back where we started on Skyline Drive. 

The waterfalls, which appear on many “best of” lists, are highlights of Shenandoah National Park.  Dark Hollow Falls is more impressive than Rose River Falls, in my opinion.  Just know you won’t have it all to yourself.

Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trails

Dates: September 29, 2018
Type: Loop
Total Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km) round trip
Cumulative Elevation Gain/Loss: 1675 feet (511 m)
Time: 4.5 hours hiking which includes lunch, photography and rest breaks
Trail Markings: Well marked with yellow and blue blazes
Difficulty: Moderate, good elevation gain
Crowds:  Lots of people on Dark Hollow Falls Trail, and a moderate number on the other trails
Water: Plenty of streams, waterfalls, swimming holes
Highlights: Waterfalls, streams, wildlife
Directions to Fisher’s Gap Parking: Google Maps Directions

Trail Directions

• Mile 0.0 – From Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot, head southwest, toward Skyline Drive.  There is a crosswalk, but don’t cross it.  Head right, uphill on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail.
• Mile 1.2 – You’ll see a stream crossing straight ahead.  If the stream is low, cross it and turn left on Story of the Forest Trail, then cross a bridge.  If the stream is too high, turn left and take the social trail to the same bridge.  You’ll be on Story of the Forest Trail without needing to cross the stream.  Go south on the trail, which is blue-blazed.
• Mile 1.3 – Story of the Forest trail turns right here, across a stone bridge.  You’ll go straight onto Story of the Forest/Dark Hollow Connector Trail.
• Mile 1.4 – Continue straight, going across Skyline Drive.  You’ll see the parking lot for Dark Hollow Falls and the Trailhead sign.  Turn left onto Dark Hollow Falls Trail.
• Mile 1.9 – Upper Dark Hollow Falls Viewpoint
• Mile 2.1 – Lower Dark Hollow Falls
• Mile 2.2 – Dark Hollow Falls Trail ends; turn right onto Rose River Fire Road, which is yellow-blazed.  Head right over a bridge with another waterfall on your right.  Immediately after the bridge, turn left onto the blue-blazed Rose River Loop Trail. 
• Mile 3.7 – Rose River Falls
• Mile 4.4 – Continue straight on yellow-blazed Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 4.9 – Cross Rose River Fire Road and continue on Skyland/Big Meadows Horse Trail
• Mile 5.1 – Skyline Drive and Fisher’s Gap Overlook parking lot

Places

• Fisher’s Gap Overlook Parking Lot | 38.53409, -78.42457 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 49.5
• Dark Hollow Falls Parking Lot | 38.51967, -78.43136 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 50.5
• Dark Hollow Falls | 8.51873,-78.43174
• Rose River Falls | 38.53151,-78.41709
• Big Meadows Campground | 38.52815,-78.43880 | Skyline Drive Mile Marker 51

Maps

• Dark Hollow Falls & Rose River Loop Trail Map (KTNP)
• Big Meadows Campground Map (NPS)

Elevation Graph

Interactive Map

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Let’s Check it Out

Since the last time we had camped there, Mathews Arm Campground had been updated, and we were interested to see how it had changed. In past visits, we had reserved one of the sites between A42 and A55, but you can no longer book those in advance. Instead, we grabbed the last site available for a weekend in late September, site C150.

After work on a Friday, we arrived at Mathews Arm Campground around 8pm. This was later than we wanted, but we still looked forward to a weekend of both relaxing and hiking. We went into the restrooms to brush our teeth and discovered a welcome addition – handsoap. In the past, there had only been hand sanitizer.

The campground seemed unusually crowded, probably due to the density of campsites in the C-loop. That night, we could hear people talking until after midnight. Many were still out around their campfires – some were yelling, others were playing loud music. We’ve found other campgrounds in national parks to be quiet; even Seawall Campground in Acadia, which has some crowded areas, was much quieter.

We didn’t see any rangers or campground staff around, so I guess no one was enforcing quiet hours. It’s hard to get quality sleep while camping, and the constant noise made it hard to fall asleep. Conversely, it’s generally been very quiet at night during previous visits. During a past visit, we even heard a ranger asking campers to let her know if other groups were disturbing them.

In the morning, we discovered we had forgotten our camp stove. So went to Elkwallow Wayside, a nearby camp store, to grab some breakfast. We had been there several times in the past to get firewood and random supplies we had forgotten at home.

Elkwallow is about 3 miles from Mathews Arm and also has gift shop items and basic hot food. T got a bacon, egg, and cheese muffin with hashbrowns, and I got sausage and egg on toast, also with hashbrowns. The servers were friendly and very accommodating of my dietary restriction. All the seating is outdoor, which you might expect. So we ate our breakfast at a sunny picnic table. The food was kind of like what you’d get at a fast food place. It filled us up and was better than cold pop-tarts.

After breakfast, we were both ready for a day of hiking. We had recently done a backpacking trip at Overall Run Falls, which is near Mathews Arm. So we decided to drive a bit further and hike a loop trail for Dark Hollow Falls and Rose River, which is close to Big Meadows Campground.

Dinner Time

When we returned to the campground that evening, we had to rely on our fire-building skills and the campsite grill since we had forgotten our stove. We had trouble getting it to light, but a couple in the adjacent site helped us out by giving us some fire starters. And we gratefully headed on to our main course of hot dogs and canned beans. And of course, s’mores!

After our gourmet meal, we cleaned up and slowly made our way toward our tent. We wondered if people would be loud again. To prepare ourselves for what might be a long night, we brought a national parks Trivial Pursuit deck we had bought at a gift shop on one of our adventures. It was a good thing we had something to do, and we were surprised to hear people making noise again until well after midnight.

Somehow, we finally got to sleep.

Campground Layout

In the morning, we packed up and drove around the campground to see whether any other major changes had taken place, aside from the addition of hand soap. It looked like bear boxes had been added to campsites on the perimeter of the campground.

Sites A23 through A53 (odd) seem relatively private. These sites also have pull-through parking rather than back-in, which we prefer. Sites A1 through A15 (odd) are relatively isolated from other sites, but will get more traffic since all vehicles entering the campground have to drive through this area.

All traffic must exit past sites A72 through A116, so there may also be more traffic in this part of the campground. However, the sites on the perimeter of the campground (mostly even-numbered sites) looked spacious.

Final Thoughts

On our way out of the park, we stopped at Apple House, a popular restaurant in Front Royal, Virginia, to grab brunch. The place is well-known for its doughnuts and located close to Shenandoah’s northern entrance. While we munched on pancakes and pulled pork, we discussed our thoughts on the changes to our most-frequented campground. Overall, we couldn’t argue with the changes to the campground itself, namely bear boxes and hand soap. But we were disappointed in the noise and the change in the site reservation system.

We hoped the late-night noise was a fluke. We also questioned why the denser sites are reservable, while the quiet, less-dense sites are walk-in only. We’ll probably go back and try for a walk-in site, but I wouldn’t stay in the C-loop again. I might reserve a site on the B-loop in hopes that it would be quieter. Either way, we hope our next visit to Mathews Arm Campground is more peaceful.

Mathews Arm Campground | 167 Campsites

• Location: Shenandoah National Park, Northern District, Skyline Drive Mile Marker 22.1 (Google Maps Directions)
• Amenities: Potable Water | Fire Pits | Picnic Table | Flush Toilets | Bear Boxes on Perimeter Campsites
• Dates Open: Early May – Late October
• Prices: $15/night for campsite | $50/night for a group campsite
• Highlights: Closest campground to North Entrance
• Best Sites: Perimeter sites on A loop and generator-free sites on B loop. Avoid C Loop if you’re looking for peace and quiet.
• Notes: Sites B117-B141, C146-C164, and D165-D167 (group sites) can be reserved up to 6 months in advance. Generator-free sites are A42-A64 and B128-B141. Elkwallow Wayside is less than 3 miles away for camping supplies.

Places

• Mathews Arm Campground | Skyline Drive, Mile Marker 22.1
• Elkwallow Wayside | Skyline Drive, Mile Marker 24.1 | Open Sunday – Monday 9am – 6pm, Saturday 9am – 7pm | Breakfast served 9am – 11am, Lunch 11am – Closing | Closed in winter
• Apple House | 4675 John Marshall Hwy, Linden, VA 22642 | Open Monday 7am – 5pm, Tuesday – Sunday 7am – 8pm

Maps

• Mathews Arm Campground Map (NPS)

Links

• Mathews Arm Reservations (Recreation.gov)

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The hike begins across from the small parking lot, with room for 10-15 cars. Fortunately, there were still a few parking spots available on the day we went. There is a map posted beside the parking lot, which has 2 route options: one with rock scrambling (the obvious choice) and one without. Cross Skyline Drive and hike up the stone staircase to begin the hike. This is the first in a series of stone and log staircases that characterize the hike. We tried to research the history of the trail, but didn’t find much. We think it must have been built by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), and we could see the care that was put into the design of the trail. Ferns covered the forest floor, which made the start of the hike very picturesque.

The fog made the woods appear ethereal and added an element of visual interest. Eventually we reached the rock scrambling portion, but I would not describe it as “mostly vertical” like the park website does. If it was, that would have been pretty awesome. But I would say it’s moderately challenging, and you do gain some elevation. There were some parts that were tricky to climb, but it was not strenuous. We’re not into extreme sports, so rock scrambling is the perfect balance for us.

We ran into several other groups during the hike, and had to wait briefly a few times while they climbed the rocks in front of us. Wait time was minimal and did not affect our enjoyment of the hike. We thought many of the rocks were granite, due to their slab-like appearance. Later we found out they are greenstone, formed from lava compressed over millions of years. It was a lot of fun to hike over them – just watch your footing.

Eventually, we reached the highest point on the rock scrambling section, and were greeted with a 360 degree view. Even though we couldn’t see far because of the thick fog, it was still a nice view of the treeline fading into the distance. Due to the combination of rocky terrain and fog at the summit, it was difficult to tell which way was up, and the horizon appeared to be at an angle. It was beautiful, but kind of disconcerting that I couldn’t properly orient myself. To cross the mountain of boulders at the peak, I had to move slowly and steady myself with my hands. Rock scrambling can be rough on your hands, but this one is short enough that gloves are not a necessity.

After the rock scrambling portion, we reached an intersection – to the right, the trail loops back to the parking lot. Continuing straight led to a viewpoint that was only about 300 feet away, so we decided to check it out. On the way to the viewpoint, we saw some white and yellow wildflowers that were one of many photogenic parts of Bearfence Mountain Trail. It was interesting to see a few varieties that flower in the fall. The viewpoint itself had very limited visibility due to the fog, so it was less than impressive. On the way back down, we turned left at the junction and took a connector trail before turning right onto the Appalachian Trail, which led back to the parking lot.

The rock scramble was the most fun part of this short hike, and it left us wanting more. We were hopeful based on the name of the trail, but sadly, we didn’t see any bears. Nor did we see any fences. Maybe next time.

Bearfence Mountain Trail | 1.1 Miles | Difficulty – Moderate
Elevation Gain: 311 Feet
Parking: Park at mile marker 56.4 on Skyline Drive (Google Maps Directions)
Trail Directions: Cross Skyline Drive, and hike about 0.15 miles until you reach an intersection. Continue straight on Bearfence Loop Trail. Continue hiking over rock scrambles, until you reach another intersection for about 0.35 miles. Continue straight about 300 feet to the viewpoint. After reaching the viewpoint, turn around, and go back to the intersection. Go left on the connector trail and in about 200 feet turn right on the Appalachian Trail. Continue 0.3 miles until you reach an intersection, and go left 0.1 miles to return to the parking lot.
Highlights: Rock scrambling, views, short trail if you don’t have a lot of time
Notes: No dogs on Bearfence Mountain Loop Trail

References:
Shenandoah NP Bearfence Mountain
Bearfence Mountain Trail Map

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