Miyajima and Mount Misen

Travis — Thu, 12 Jun 2025 20:25:43 +0000

When we decided to visit Japan, I knew we had to go to Miyajima (宮島). Officially known as Itsukushima (厳島), Miyajima is a small island off the coast of Hiroshima. The island, along with thousands of other islands in the Seto Inland Sea, is part of Setonaikai National Park (瀬戸内海国立公園, Setonaikai Kokuritsu Kōen).

Miyajima, which means “shrine island,” boasts a unique feature: a fifty-foot tall torii gate that appears to float on the water at high tide. At low tide, visitors can walk out to the gate. There’s lots more to see and do, including visiting the highest point on the island – Mount Misen (弥山, Misen).

Mt. Misen stands at 535 meters tall. Three main hiking trails, as well as a ropeway, lead visitors to its peak. We intended to hike up the mountain, but the heat got the better of us and we decided to take the ropeway up. On the way down we would hike through Mount Misen Primeval Forest, a protected area located on the northern side of the mountain.

My parents are big fans of Japanese woodblock art (ukiyo-e), and they took me to museums to see them as a kid. They instilled a love of art in me, and I bought a few prints as an adult. The first one I bought was called “Moonlit Night at Miyajima” by Kawase Hasui, which depicts a nighttime view of the beautiful Itsukushima Shrine, surrounded by water. So we were beyond excited to experience the shrine in person.

To Miyajima

We spent two nights on Miyajima, but only one full day. We really enjoyed the island and wished we had more time there. The previous day, we had completed the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route and spent the night in Matsumoto. We then took the shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima, where we explored for an afternoon.

That evening, we had dinner with a family friend who lives in Hiroshima. Around 9:00 pm, we finally made our way to Miyajima via a ferry. It only took ten minutes, and we were the only passengers on board (aside from our family friend who insisted on accompanying us). Once we docked at the island, we walked about three minutes to Sakuraya, our hotel. It’s an affordable cozy spot with Japanese style rooms in a great location.

Itsukushima Shrine

The following morning, we headed out around 9:00 a.m. Immediately, we spotted some of Miyajima’s most popular residents: wild Sitka deer. They’re cute, relatively tame, and can be found all over the island. Watch out for them, as they will try to grab food or other items, we’re told. It’s illegal to feed the deer…so don’t do that. In the Shinto religion, Sitka deer are considered to be messengers of gods and are protected by law.

We headed straight toward Itsukushima Shrine. Along the way, we walked down Omotesando Street, where vendors sell food and souvenirs. Most vendors weren’t open yet, but we managed to find a few that were, and grabbed some snacks for breakfast. We made sure to buy some delicious Momiji manjū, a cake with various fillings that is considered a specialty on the island. Kristin was even able to find some that were dairy-free.

Omotesando Street curved to reveal our first glimpse of the Itsukushima torii gate as we walked. At high tide, the torii gate appeared to float, and its rusty orange color was striking in contrast with the blue water. The gate truly is a stunning and unique landmark.

Along the way, we stopped to take photos of the torii gate from various angles. I was glad to finally visit in person after seeing it represented in artwork throughout the years. We planned to return later in the day, during low tide, to get closer to the torii gate. Before our trip, we downloaded a tide timing app so we wouldn’t miss anything.

Next, we went to check out another popular tourist attraction on the island. After waiting in a long line and paying 300 yen apiece, we entered the Itsukushima Shrine complex. It has the same striking vermillion color as the torii gate, and is built over the water. It was crowded with tourists as we walked through.

Near the center of the shrine, we got our goshuin stamped, then walked out onto a platform with a view of the torii gate. Tons of people were waiting to get their photo with the torii gate beyond. So, we jumped on the bandwagon and got our picture too, before exiting the shrine to the east. We planned to stop by in the evening to get yet another view of the torii gate. Thinking about all the shrines we visited in Japan, this is one of the most impressive.

Ascending Mount Misen

At this point in the day, the temperature was quickly approaching scorching hot. It was around 90 °F, and with the humidity between 60% and 80%…it felt like more than 100 °F. Thankfully, the area was designed with streams that flow through constructed channels, so we dipped our feet in to cool off. We also got gelato at Baccano, which helped. Despite the heat, we were ready to ascend Mount Misen.

The history of Mt. Misen is connected with Kobo Daishi (774 – 835), a famous Buddhist monk who created the Shingon sect. In 806, he founded a temple called Daisho-in at the base of Mt. Misen. There are Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen, all legendary events said to have happened to Kobo Daishi. We saw two of the wonders while on Mt. Misen; many of the others are inaccessible or no longer exist.

There are three hiking routes to climb Mt. Misen: the Momijidani, Daisho-in, and the Omoto Course. Each course is a bit different. We originally thought we’d take the Momijidani Course up and the Daisho-in Course down. But we started to rethink our options due to the heat.

There is a fourth option to get to the top: The Miyajima Ropeway. We decided to ascend Mount Misen using this option and descend via the Daisho-in course. Daisho-in Temple is located near the exit of the Daisho-in course, and we wanted to visit that as well. After exiting the ropeway, the route to the summit and then down to Daisho-in is roughly 3.5 km (2.2 mi).

It was about a 20 minute walk from our hotel to Miyajima Ropeway. This route would take us through Momijidani Park, which is famous for its maple trees. We planned to walk, but when the free shuttle came by, we decided to take it. It was hot, enough said.

We arrived at the ropeway, bought our tickets, and got into a car with a friendly Japanese couple who spoke a bit of English. The views were decent as we went up the first section of ropeway, and before we knew it, we arrived at Kayadani Station. The second ropeway section had even better views, with a gorgeous look southeast of the Seto Sea.

Mount Misen Summit

Eventually, we arrived at Shishiiwa Station, the final stop on the ropeway. But we weren’t at the summit yet. From the ropeway it’s a 1.0 km (0.6 mi) hike to the top, which takes about 30 minutes via the Momijidani Route.

The trail wasn’t too hard, and we had nice views of the Seto Sea. In about 15 minutes, we came to a flat area with a couple of buildings: Misen Hondo (Misen Main Hall) and Reikado (Hall of the Spiritual Flame). We started in Reikado, where a fire lit in 806 by Kobo Daishi has been burning for over 1,200 years. The fire from this temple was used to light the fire at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. It’s considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen.

Next we did a quick look into the nearby temple, Misen Hondo, then continued to ascend up to the summit. We passed by additional buildings: Sankido, Monjudo, and Kannondo Halls. All are places of worship, dedicated to a variety of deities.

It was a short walk to the top, and we weaved around and below some boulders before arriving. We had to duck to pass under Kuguriiwa, or Passage Rock. Finally, we arrived at the summit. Inside the observatory, we enjoyed the shade and a 360 degree view of the Seto Inland Sea and Hiroshima Bay. There’s also a small gift shop at the bottom of the building.

Descending Mount Misen and Daishoin Temple

Around 3:30 pm, we decided to head down. We wanted to check out Daisho-in Temple, but it closes at 5:00 pm, so we were going to be tight on time. The trail continues down the other side of the mountain and leads to the other two routes, Daisho-in and the Omoto Course. Near the top, we passed another of the Seven Wonders of Mt. Misen – Kanmaniwa known as the “ebb-and-flow rock.” The rock has a hole with saltwater that rises and lowers with the tide. We didn’t stick around long enough to see the phenomenon though.

After the Kanmaniwa rock we passed Dainichido Hall, but we didn’t have time to explore further. We descended multiple flights of stairs, and turned right to continue down the mountain. I was glad we had decided to hike down rather than up, because I was sweating buckets and it was nearly a hundred degrees.

As we passed a small shrine along the trail, we heard buzzing. Looking around, we saw a swarm of hundreds of bees above the small shrine. Thankfully, they seemed preoccupied, so we slid quickly by, past a turnoff to Miyama Shrine.

We passed between two large rocks on each side of the trail known as Kujiraiwa, which means Whale Rock. The rock on the left looks like a whale, and has a hole on the top which resembles a blowhole. And the round rock on the left…is the whale’s poop. It sounds like I made that up, but I promise I didn’t. Soon after, we passed through Niōmon (仁王門, Niou gate), which has two guardian statues. After the gate, the trail forks onto the Daisho-in and Omoto Courses. We headed left for the Daisho-in Course.

The trail parallels, and occasionally crosses, the Shiraito River down a seemingly endless staircase. In 2005, a mudslide damaged Daisho-in temple and other areas. On the way down, we spotted some large dam-like structures that help prevent mudslides, which had been constructed a few years later in 2008.

At 4:30 pm we arrived at a small shelter called the Azumaya Observation Deck. There’s a decent view looking north (though not as broad a view as when we were higher up). At this point, it’s about 0.4 miles (0.7 km) to Daisho-in. Quickly, we passed some small shrines on the side of the trail as we descended. We had to hurry, and didn’t spend as much time as we’d like looking at everything. We passed Shiraito Falls, which supposedly resembles threads of silk. But not much water was flowing, so we didn’t really get that impression. We also heard that the mudslides in 2005 altered the way the falls look.

Somehow, we made it to Daisho-in just ten minutes before it closed. That’s nowhere near enough time to do it justice. But, we did our best and even got our goshuin stamped. Daisho-in has hundreds of small rakan statues, which represent the disciples of Buddha. There are also buildings and caves you can explore. When we revisit Miyajima someday, Daisho-in is one place we’d like to spend more time.

Dinner and Itsukushima Torii Gate at Low Tide

Once we walked back into the heart of the town, we noticed something had changed. Fewer people were out and about. Miyajima has a lot of day tourists, so the evenings seem a lot more chill. It was still pretty hot, so we decided to get ice cream…again. Twice in one day, why not? The server recognized us and gave us an additional scoop for free. Now it was time to see the torii gate again – at low tide.

The torii gate looked dramatically different. We walked onto the sand, which had been submerged not long ago. Now, a trickle flowed underneath the torii gate. Near the gate, we spotted various wildlife like small crabs. Eventually we made our way toward, and finally under, the torii gate. Being that close to the gate was a surreal and memorable experience.

For dinner, we decided to check out a brewery. I had been loving all the Japanese food we got on our trip, but I didn’t want to pass up the opportunity to try some craft beer (though it’s less popular in Japan than in the US). Miyajima is known for oysters, which Kristin tried, as well as anago (fresh-water eel). I, on the other hand, really enjoyed the beer – especially the Blood Orange.

After dinner, we walked around and explored the area until it got dark. Stone lanterns by the water’s edge were lit for both ambiance and safety. At night, the shrine and torii gate are also illuminated, adding another element to their beauty and uniqueness. The gate in particular looked even more striking and majestic at night. By then, we were pretty tired, so we headed back to Sakuraya to crash.

The next morning we got a small breakfast of toast, salad, egg, tea, and juice for ¥500 through Sakuraya, (we had to request it the night before). After breakfast, it was time to go! We boarded the ferry back to Hiroshima, and sadly, our Miyajima adventure was over.

We wished we had more time to explore all that Miyajima has to offer. Specifically, I’d also like to hike up Mt. Misen next time (weather permitting), and further explore the east side of the island. The time flew by, but I was glad to finally see the torii gate that I’d seen in artwork since I was a kid.

Maps

Nature Hikes on Miyajima Maps (English) – Four maps of different courses on Miyajima. Lots of information, descriptions, and the best maps I had found for the island.

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